How to Stop Damp Mould & Condensation - a COMPLETE Guide
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- Опубликовано: 22 май 2024
- This is the result of a year's research into what causes damp mould and condensation, and how to solve it.
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- Thermpro TP-55 Hygrometer geni.us/zJfvew (Amazon)
- Thermpro TP-65 Hygrometer with outdoor sensor geni.us/8ahIKcl (Amazon)
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- Meaco Desiccant Dehumidifier featured in video geni.us/glttA1d (Amazon)
- Karcher Window Vac WV2 geni.us/cyqBmiK (Amazon)
- My bathroom extractor fan bit.ly/2GoWomX bought from Extractor Fan World. I had an Envirovent before, again bought from them. It stopped working a couple of years after install and they replaced it without question - great service!
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- That RH graph from Wikipedia bit.ly/36BLyEV
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#damp #mould #condensation 
Хобби
I was born in 1947 we lived in a council house with a coal fire. We never had any damp or mould problems. We had an oven in the kitchen linked to the coal fire. My mother often dried clothes on a clothes horse put in front of the oven, and still no damp problems. We didn't have radiators all we had was a back boiler behind the fire to heat the water. Coal fires allowed the house to breathe. Later on, the council fitted a gas boiler and radiators. That's when the problems started, we started getting damp problems, the windows were always damp on the inside. Many years later I had a Housing Association bungalow, due to my health problems. The Housing Association in their great wisdom decided to insulate the loft to the current standard. A damp-proofing firm filled the cavity walls with insulation( pumped in). That was when the bungalow started getting damp problems. Mould started to appear on every wall. It became a constant battle to keep the walls mould-free. The windows were always streaming with water. My wife and I are in our late seventies and in very poor health, I try to keep windows open as much as possible, all the time in summer. We are causing more problems by having our homes over-insulated. The house needs to breathe. Cavity walls were designed to do just that. There is no great mystery as to why people have damp problems. Many people can not afford to heat their homes as due to an incompetent government fuel prices have gone through the roof. People on minimum wages and pensioners on a single basic pension, like myself are struggling to live. In this country, the rich get rich and the poor are forgotten about. The basic pension starts at £130, you don't get far on that. I would like to see if the Prime Minister or our overpaid MPs could survive on what I have to live on. THERE IS NO WAY THEY COULD.
Sorry to hear about the problems you face now and thank you for explaining how the situation has changed over the years. It was makes perfect sense given the need to ventilate houses.
The problem is there was no clear strategy initially with insulation measures - now under Pas2035 the government intends to rectify all of this - “there is no insulation without ventilation” which is the causation for most your damp and mould symptoms … measures installed in isolation never work effectively - there has to be a conjoined approach and strategy …. Much in the same as if you improve a cars BHP you must improve its breaking capacity …. The old open fire houses had a mass of ventilation via the stack so RH never had time to condense and air changes were at a rate of 2/5 …. Of course the only way to heat the property was with fossil fuel and this is now to be banned …. And just to add , the mechanical operation of ‘opening windows manual will never work , nor will trickle vents long term
Got a stove fitted before Christmas used to have an open fire.. windows are destroyed now due to the chimney been blocked now. Always had clothes on the rads drying.. so annoying
Because the fire gives off a lot of infared heat. Which reduces relative humidity.
We have candles, gov calls it affordable heating in UK 😂❤️❤️🇮🇱
This is by far the most comprehensive "documentary" on the phenomenon of damp/mould and how to reduce it. I really appreciate the astonishing amount of work that has clearly gone into the making of it. The science and home experiments are fascinating. I can honestly say that I really understand the whole phenomenon much better now. Well done! I have of course liked and subscribed as a result! (Marius Gudonis, originally from northwest London, but now working in Warsaw)
As a building services engineer, I can state that is the simplest and easiest to understand explanation of RH. Good work Charlie!
Thanks, Stephen I massively appreciate that!
I agree with Stephen 100%
Brilliantly explained. Thank you.
@@CharlieDIYte Hey you say to have a ventalation system or an Air Conditioner to circulate the air, but what if it's in a rainy area and you have a heater on with the AC or it on fan mode in a travel trailer? I thought the cold air from the outside meeting with the warm air inside is what causes the moisture, so why would putting air from outside inside cause it to be less moisture?
Perhaps to add a bit more accuracy to that statement..."Relative humidity is the amount of moisture in the air relative to the amount of moisture air can hold, influenced by its temperature "....yes, the air pressure also plays a part in how much moisture air can hold at atmospheric conditions. However, changes due to elevation and weather may contribute to a certain extent, though not massively.
Thank you for this video. I finally decided to take action on your advice and to stop breathing altogether. Breathing has been the root-cause of many of the problems in my life anyway.
For example, I stubbed my toe the other week and afterwards it dawned on me if I wasn’t breathing this would have never happened to me. I’m also getting tired of inflating my lungs only to deflate ‘em a few seconds later (I mean seriously, who’ve got time for that?).
Anyway, your video was the final nudge I needed to take action and I’ll be sure to credit you and your video regardless the outcome. Thanks again.
James, James you need to START BREATHING AGAIN 😬 Very drole but I hope you found the video useful.
Funny
I'm right there with you. F'ing hilarious.
Love this 🤣
Hilarious don't stop breathing please😁😂
Another +1 for PIV. I Moved into an early 1900's bungalow in Essex a few years ago and humidity levels were getting up into the 80's through the first winter. At one point water was streaming from the single glazed windows, down onto the windowsill and puddling on the floor. You could sense it in the air as well, everything would feel damp and there was a constant musk.
I installed an extractor in both the kitchen and bathroom and changed all the single glazed windows to double and although this did help with the build up on the windows it didn't have much effect on the levels.
I then tried running a dehumidifier and although this was somewhat successful it was only whilst it was running. As soon as it stopped the levels rose again.
Last year i went with a loft fitted PIV with no heat and almost instantly the levels dropped down into the 40's. Even through the worst of winter it only crept up to 60% a few times. I have it fitted in the hallway and you can notice the temp if you stand right under it but it's a small price to pay for having no condensation or mould in the house. It even seems to force the air into all of the rooms quite well under door gaps etc.
I now have that running all year round, use extractors in the kitchen and bathroom and put the dehumidifier on next to the clothes horse when drying clothes inside in the winter with amazing results.
Quite possibly the best purchase i have ever made. If anyone reading has similar issues in a similar property i can't recommend them enough.
Hi Mark, I came across you comment here, thanks for this info. This was made 6 months ago, would you still recommend the system you have? Which brand did you go for? Many thanks in advance
After a flood they say it takes months to dry out with dehumidifiers, was the house empty not heated when you moved in? The clothes horse was probably the biggest problem or rain coming in the walls, get a condensing dryer!
The line of logic regarding dehumidifier is flawed. You wrote it was somewhat successful when running. So is the piv, because it somewhat works when it is running. I think there is another problem, just like people suggested, it was damp because being vacant for a long time or there is a leak. Check the plumbing. I lived in the house where there were THREE small leaks simultaneously, under the main hot tank, shower and the small hot tank in the kitchen. That had risen moisture levels significantly in all the locations without producing obvious signs of leak.
@markbriggs729 Would you need Trickle vents on the windows for PIVs to work? None of the rooms have ventilation holes in the wall but have trickle vents in the windows. We plan to change the windows and I wonder if I have to get tricke vents in it for the air to flow. Apologies if its a silly question, but the trickle vents are all dusty and mouldy.
Another excellent video Charlie, chock full of well researched info to help us homeowners overcome DIY issues. Love your channel 🙌
Excellent study Charlie, watched it before but never really took heed of it, coming into winter now, it made a lot more sense to me. Thanks for the work you put in, enjoy your channel.
Great video. I have watched many on this subject and this one was the best.
Quite possibly the best condensation advice video on RUclips.
Thanks 🙏👍🏻
This bloke is talking a lot of sense here now subscribed
Charlie, you have out done yourself with this video!!! The amount of data you collected was impressive and goes above and beyond, well done mate very informative!!
Brilliant, comprehensive and informative. This is going to be a great help to us. Thank you Charlie!
Thank you so much for this incredibly helpful and informative video. I’m renovating an old stone house in Wales with soaking wet cellar walls even after removing the cement render 8 months ago. Your advice on HRV systems was a eureka moment as I didn’t know they existed so many thanks for that! 👍
Well done on going the extra mile, fantastic data collection and analysis. We moved into a property with a Heat recovery system, not knowing anything about it. 2 years on, very very thankful for it.
Thank you Charlie again another concise video explaining common problems albeit a "pesky" one we nearly all have. Nice to have somebody to actually EXPLAIN in detail whats going on.
Thanks for all the information it has been very helpful in understanding how and why condensation works in a structure and how to combat it .
Excellent analysis of this issue, Charlie, thank you! Our experience of dehumidifiers totally bears out your endorsement of them, especially for laundry drying but also for general control of the RH in our home.
Moved into a circa 1900 mid terrace stone house 3.5 years ago, had major issues with condensation for around 18 months until I installed a PIV. Stopped it dead. Within 2 days I put away the window vac and it’s been there for the last 2 years. Installed over the staircase and the only time you feel cold air is when walking up the final flight of stairs (three storey house). House went from 80%+ humidity to between 40-50% virtually overnight
what size was it & was it costly? (even if in retrospect it was the best pounds spent ;-)
Thank you so much for this. I live in an old Art Deco apartment with single glazed windows, no extractor. This really helped, I’ve bought a dehumidifier and noted the lifestyle suggestions. Great work ✊🏽
The effort and detail that went into this video is much appreciated
Great video Charlie. Very helpful and informative. I did all the same research a few years ago as I was having some issues with condensation and mould in my bungalow. I installed a good centrifugal fan in my bathroom and ducted my kitchen extractor to outside. But I also installed a PIV ( the one pictured in your video actually) and it has been great. My hygrometer rarely goes above 40 RH. I've set mine on a low fan speed which seems to change the air enough for my place and it certainly doesn't create a cold spot in my passage. When you put your hand up to the outlet you can feel the draft but this isn't enough to create a cold spot in the hallway. You can't feel any cold air when stood directly underneath the outlet. I haven't noticed any significant increase in my electricity bill from the fan in loft running constantly. When the loft temperature increases in the warmer weather the unit switches off as it is thermostatically controlled. All this said I really do think that your lifestyle habits are the main influence because you do have to manage the air inside your home as best you can. Keep up the great videos.
Great vid. Very interesting and instructive. Well done and thank you.
Awesome video Charlie! Thanks for an easy to understand and near perfect explanation of RH.
Wow! probably the best concise information I have come across about condensation, well done sir many thanks
Seriously one of the best videos on this topic I've seen. I'm new to being more humidity aware due to issues at our trailer. This explained things so clearly and to the point that I feel like I have a much better base from which to address our issues and less anxiety about unknowns.
So glad to hear that. I recommend getting a hygrometer, that way you know where you stand and what steps you need to take. 👍
Morning Charlie, great informative video as usual. I have had the Kaarcher for years and it is great, but better still is the ebac (one of the older type), which is portable enough to cart around our small house. We use our tiny conservatory as a drying room, as it benefits from plumbed in central heating. The ebac makes the drying time very quick, and stops the obvious influx of damp air into the house (this seems to work better than using our washer dryer for drying clothes). Our house was built in 1906, and so is single skinned. As it is also small, we could not internally insulate as you have demonstrated. Where possible I move the furniture around and clean any mould patches with a mild detergent, which seems to keep the problem down. However, we have moved wardrobes that have been in the same position for ages, and uncovered disaster areas!.
Thanks for making these videos, as they are extremely useful (off to open my velux window ventilation, which I normally have closed in winter :-).
Awesome video, @Charlie! Really comprehensive. I think we'll be doing some of the things you suggest.
Fantastic video, thanks. We have had an ebac for about 20 years now, best thing we ever did 😀
This was a fantastic video Charlie, and so informative and interesting that I wouldn't have minded if it went on another 25 minutes. Love your videos, thanks a million.
Thanks David, I really appreciate that, and it's quite timely as I'm working on a smart heating install right now and in spite of my best efforts it's 23 minutes long already with another 5 minutes to go...
@@CharlieDIYte how long did smart mode on your dehumidifier run for the first time before it started shutting off mine seems to run constantly and when do you have your running for
Hi Charlie another of you excellent videos, I've been involved in heating and ventilation for more years than I care to remember, but have seldom seen the issues so well explained, it is so good that I've sent your link to the company who manage my rental properties :-)
I've been giving this type of advice for some years, but not so well as you have done.
There is a caveat, which concerns the optimum level of humidity, I suffer from a form of bronchitis in the winter and have found that the best humidity for me is circa 55%, my doctor suggested putting the damp washing in the bedroom! but being an engineer I elected to use a humidifier where I can accuratley control the humidity. I have found that modern well insulated properties can have humidities in the 30 - 40% range, which dries out the mucous membranes inside of humans, more serious than chapped lips!
I have also been involved with the design and installation of MHVR systems and one of the problems is in maintaining them e.g. people don't clean/replace the filters regualarly and they can introduce low %RH air into the house which will reduce the house humidity.
I use the Meaco in my "man cave" where my toys live, because it seems that most of the refrigerant types are not very efficient below ambient air temp. of 15 Deg.C.
The best presenter I seen in a while and knows his stuff. Well done.
Excellent, informative video. I'm pleased to see that some of the efforts I've been using have been confirmed by you.
Perfect timing on this video. Just started looking into a mold problem we have in the room next to a shower.
Glad to hear it. Hope you find it useful!! 👍
"Demystify" - I like it Charlie!
Great video Charlie. I always love your level of detail, reasoning, explanation and research that you do. Keep up the great work!
Thanks, I really appreciate that. Thank YOU for watching my vids, and for the comment. It's a big motivation receiving positive feedback 👊
Enlightening, especially about leaving the curtains open...I have a dehumidifier and always thought it was useless until this video and realised a couple of points, including the fact that we always dry the clothes in the same room...hence the high condensation. We are in the process of changing the windows to double glazing and I have found this video very informative...cheers!
Charlie - that's some serious work you've put in to that video! Awesome stuff! Fantastic video as usual. We're in a new build at the mo. and the total lack of any form of damp or condensation has been a nice change. In fact we sometimes get condensation on the outside of windows! Wouldn't surprise me in the rel. humidity was
£
Fantastic Video Charlie, we all have problems with damp/mold.. Well researched and explained. Thank you my friend 🙏🏻
You're very welcome - thanks for the comment, I really appreciate it!
fantastic information and thanks for sharing your very detailed studies!
Excellent video Charlie well done! I’m a Brit living in Sweden, all houses here built in the last 50 years or more have some form of ventilation system, be it natural draught ventilation pipes from kitchens and bathrooms, fans in the roof drawing air out of the house 24/7 (my current house has this, it works well, some windows still have the original paint and the house was built in 77). I have lived in a house with a heat exchanger, this would be my system of choice, I have known it to be down to -15 outside in the house +22 and the radiator was hardly on, you could hold your hand on it without it burning. (Heat systems are a little different here but that’s another subject).
People do not use heavy curtains here, they are normally not drawn, they are light weight net curtains and for decoration purposes. Usually Venetian blinds are installed between the glass pains in the case of triple glazing older style, or you can have triple glazed window with an envelope with a vacuum and an envelope with argon gas which are great, sometimes they have condensation on the outside and when it really snows, it can lay against the glass for days without melting, I currently have both types installed all windows have ventilators built into the frame which you can control, I never have condensation. Having said this in this part of Sweden the RH is lower than the U.K. which is surrounded by seas. When it is a minus temperature outside the RH can drop dramatically I have seen the RH as low as 20% which is not so comfortable, at the moment I have 45% and it’s -3c outside. I have an alarm system which has smoke detectors with temperature and humidity sensors, even when I am not home I can see the humidity and temperatures in the house on my phone. As you say condensation can destroy your home but more importantly your health! Incidentally the main heating system I have is a warm air pump, they are a like an air on unit but push out warm air, it circulates the air round the house and can be used in the summer for cooling but it’s expensive to do that, I do have it on when it is hot sometimes. Sorry this sitt is in Swedish but you can translate using Google www.bast-i-test.se/tester_pa_basta/luftvarmepumpar.html
Living in an older property I never knew like a cave it traps the moisture well. Thanks for this 👍👍
Can you tell if the walls are lime plastered or cement or gypsum
This video is the best I've seen. Covering every aspect and every plan of action in a way thats easy to understand. Appreciate it.
You're welcome 👍
An amazingly helpful and insightful video, thank you Charlie!
We have a 170 year old terrace cottage. Modern render, windows and plaster. We tried everything. Even without changing our habits with the shower, cooking, boiling the kettle and drying clothes, we installed a PIV unit and the results have been dramatic. We've gone from up to 80%RH to
We have a PIV in our 130yr old house. It is a large 3500sq ft. property with no insulation and thick walls. The condensation and RH have reduced significantly since I installed it a few years ago. I also noted the price seems to have crept up significantly. I have the heated model but never wired the heater up. I note that another well respected you tuber who posts a lot about damp issues is sceptical about PIV but I think as our roof space is well ventilated (read has loads of gaps) I think the colder dryer air in the loft is pushed through the house meaning the wetter air gets pushed out. I also insulated an exposed bedroom internally that used to suffer from condensation on parts of the walls and this has cured the problem.
Thanks Matt - that's interesting and confirms what I heard when I was researching this. The insulation makes a massive difference, doesn't it. You just have to ensure you don't create any child bridges when installing it, which I didn't completely do in my son's room. Still, he had mould everywhere before and none now. Thanks for the comment!
What does PIV stand for? Thank you
Excellent stuff Charlie. I've watched so many videos regards insulation and condensation issues and your's is the first one that makes any sense whatsoever. You explain it in a straightforward easy to understand way and it makes so much sense, Great stuff. My go to reference point from now on.
Thanks Jon, I really appreciate that. I did a quick update video recently if you have a moment. Goes over much of the same ground ruclips.net/video/NbtijHKy2Vo/видео.html 👊
A very interesting, thorough, informative and easily to understand insight into condensation and its causes in the home. A must-view for anyone wishing to understand and act on this issue.
Amazing effort!!! Perfect timing as well, as I was in the process of trying to reduce our humidity in our old victorian house down from around 70% to stop black mold build-up. Thinking of testing out the Blue Maestro Tempo hygrometers, as they can keep track daily, hourly etc and send it all to your phone. Nice work Charlie!
Hello !! I've been a Master HVAC contractor for 30+ years and I really liked you explanation of dew point and RH . I have many clients in a high rise condo building in a very mixed climate of Richmond va. Floor to ceiling glass walls on one or more sides. The windows are double pane but the framing is aluminum. I've been dealing with the frames condensating for years. Dehumidifiers as you said solve most of the problem, but coupled with air flow from floor fans and or ceiling fans solved the rest of the issues. Combined they totally eliminated condensating. I've automated some Dehumidifiers to work in conjunction with the air handlers fan. I got excellent results
Hello. From reading your comment am I correct in assuming that high airflow around areas where condensate builds up helps to mix it back into the room air which can then be removed using a dehumidifier?
An excellent video, similar situation building wise to yourself. Plenty of new ideas now to get started on. Cheers
Great video. I know this was a long time ago, but we have had a piv installed and its doing pretty well. There is a bit of a draft but it's nothing too bad. Id say that a combination of all your suggestions are probably the best approach to stay on top of it.
Nice work. I have obsessed about Relative Humidity values for a number of years. It’s not something that people find easy to understand. So explaining it is not always successful. I think you got it down nicely. Personally I think every house in our climate should have a dehumidifier but the concept is not widely understood.
I have not played with many brands but I am a Meaco fan. I have bought both desiccant and compressor versions.
My research found compressor ones seem to operate best around room temperature and the desiccant ones are best in colder spaces (15 c down to -10 or so) The desiccant ones tend to warm a room slightly which may be an advantage in some situations and can explain the extra running cost.
I highly recommend a dehumidifier as a clothes drying solution in our UK / Ireland climate. You get good results for less cost than running a tumble dryer (I have seen bills drop significantly) as well as rooms/houses being healthier. The best drying results being where a largeish desk fan is also used to move air through the clothes rack even just at a slow speed. Also your don’t need to use the clothes drying setting but it will day things faster.
I like the compressor dehumidifier you have there. Nice controls. I may have to try it out if I need to get another one some day.
Thanks again. I’ll be sharing this when the topic comes up.
Great video, confirmed most of the things I've found living in an older house. It had a mix of window types and damp/condensation problems after we moved in. Like you we tried those little damp traps and a small dehumidify both as you said completely useless. We now have a large compressor dehumidify that's used to dry clothes in a small unity room. We don't use it in main house now because there isn't any need for it. Still get some condensation on windows we haven't replaced/upgraded but like you we use the window vac to help control it.
As you said there's no one solution and you need to understand the whole problem. Then you can fix what you can and manage what you can't. Nice tip on clearing the water from the shower, think I'll also be making that a rule in our house.
That was an incredibly comprehensive video. You taught me a lot about specific details and over-arching ideas in a relatively short time. Thank you very much.
You're very welcome Brian. Thanks for the comment 👊
This is one of the best videos explaining the very complicated subject of condensation.
Spot on mate
Thanks Brett!
Very timely video. Thanks for that, so insightful. And my contribution to the discussion is- We have just had a positive air pressure system fitted to the loft by our landlord. We had terrible damp problems despite doing many of the measures you outlined. So in conclusion 1) It did work. Noticeable fresher cleaner air and less damp and mould in corner bedroom. 2) sadly our smart meter has gone crazy. Maxing out in the red almost everyday compared to sometimes being under budget.. . 4 kW heater is clearly the culprit. 3) Our hallway is never particularly warm but I would say it feels a little cooler. But not substantially. So it's doing a great job but at a very noticeable cost due to the heater. Obviously, years down the line will involve servicing issues too.
Well done Charlie, it's having the time to do the investigation and numbers you've done over the winter months. You da man...much appreciated 👍
Tremendously helpful. Many thanks, Charlie.
I have one of those - very good though I'm still trying to work out the controls !!
Great article on understanding condensation
I suffered from damp and condensation in one room downstairs ,this i found out was due to no fresh air getting into the room/ fitted 2 vents at floor level direct to the outside and one at the top, problem solved no damp no condensation , the trouble is people seal up everything to stop draught a big mistake /good video very informative
Another vote here for PIV, a landlord of an end terraced old house with no cavity I the walls, spent a couple of grand fitting insulated plasterboard on the inside of external walls. Even lent the tenants a quality dehumidifier, but only fitting the Nuaire PIV solved the problem. It cost me a good tenant too, trying actively to resolve the problem. Property is now condensation free. This will be my go to solution 1st step in future.
Did your insulated plasterboard become wet ? Or was that dry before you fitted the PIV
Brilliant video and comprehensive explanation!
What a great show,
Beautifully and very well explained,
One of the best research program I have ever seen,
Good work and thanks very much.
Another vote for PIV.
I’m a landlord and the go to solution for lifestyle damp is a PIV.
Go on any landlord page and you’ll see the same answer time and time again.
In the six years that I’ve been fitting them, the Nuaire have gone from £260 to just shy of £400 for the heated unit. This is no doubt due to popularity. They just work. They’re absolutely silent unlike dehumidifiers. They’re much cheaper to run than dehumidifiers too.
What’s not been mentioned is they help allergy sufferers by the filtered air driving out pollen, dust and mites.
I’ve had to block up certain air vents close to the Piv due to air taking the path of least resistance.
Highly recommended
Where do you install them? I think a PIV would be a solution to one of my rental properties which has significant damp in cellar to the point it’s recently been affecting corners in living room. Am I best to put PIV in the cellar by air brick or put it in loft ?
I completely agree we had a bad cause of condensation in our rental property and our tenants complained alot. Then, eight years ago I came across PIVs and I got a nuaire installed and I must say it has worked 100% and I also have a mr venty envirovent installed installed in ours too.
Now, we have acquired a new property.. We have noticed the internal glazing is soaked in water. Will be investing in a piv here too before we get tenants in. Prevention is better than the cure.
A nuaire got installed yesterday and checked it out. boy is it a bit noisy..hope it settles down.
Going to ensure that within the tenancy agreement the tenants are not allowed to meddle with it.
@@truth952 they mostly go in a loft for a house... however not every house suits a piv...most do.
The only true way to understand its suitability then a free survey from someone like envirovent will tell you all you need
I've fitted one. Think of a PIV like the car windscreen demister. That blows air over the windscreen (basically a window) & provides a clear view without Condensation. Problem is, we add heat to the blower in cars, simply for our comfort, who wants to sit there freezing? Equally the standard NuAire PIV is a cold blown air so stairwells will be cold unless, you add the bolt-on heater or start with the model with a heat unit
Cheers, Andrew
@@andrewriley4204 they should not be folded without the heater.... my company doesn't. Even though the top of the ceiling above the stairs will be the warmest air in the house youre redistributing that air and shifting it elsewhere.
Thanks for teaching me so many different things to do to Dehumidify your living space
Excellent video. This helps to explain why our similar cottage to yours has the same problems. Thanks Charlie.
Thanks Ian. I'm seriously tempted to install a PIV. That'll eradicate most of the problems. It's well worth getting a couple of hygrometers though, as it's great to keep an eye on the humidity levels and to make sure they don't get above 60%.
I fitted a PIV unit a couple of years ago in my bungalow, this was in January, the next morning I had no condensation, and have not had any since. It does not make the area where it is installed cold, brilliant system.
Hi, which system did you have? I am looking at one by envirovent
@@simonmccutcheon7085 Dont buy a PIV as Dennis- it just wastes heat and creates cold spots. Get a MVHR as per video. eg, Nuaire
An easy DIY install in the loft and extract the damp air from the bathrooms, whilst inputting fresh air heated by the extracted air. Picked up mine from Ebay.for £200
I have recently had an Air Intake and Extraction system installed by Envirovent of Harrogate which draws air in through the Back wall of my flat and out through the front running constantly. The increase to my electricity bill is negligible but the difference in the flat is ABSOLUTELY FANBLOODYTASTIC!! I can not praise Envirovent enough.
Thank you so much for your videos. I watched both your videos on this and it’s really helped. We have changed our lifestyle habits to reduce excess condensation in the house as well as at night running a dehumidifier because we suffered with lots of condensation on our wall and windows. Massive change from 86% down to 50/60%. Thanks so much Charlie.
Compete and exhaustive explanations. Nice video that opened my eyes and broaden my knowledge on my humidity problems. I'm now back on rails to solve them all ... at once.
I put a PIV in last year and it's been bloody brilliant (I'll leave the manufacturer out, so you know I'm not spamming)
No condensation on any window in my single glazed, 1930s house. The house also smells fresher upstairs, but not cold.
The house also heats up much faster.
Hi Olly, can you tell me which brand of PIV you bought and what part of the world you live in?
We have nuaire drimaster in my rental and a envirovent Mr venty in our home..will be getting another nuaire for a rental we have acquired.. Don't want headache of complaining tenants.
Kid you not it is the best investment we made.
Great video, well informed and really impressed with the effort you went through collecting your own data. I myself have bad damp in the house and have recently bought a great de-humidifier that has brought the humidity levels from over 60% to 40% I am yet to see if this will help the damp on my walls and ceilings but I am hopeful. I found the section on windows especially interesting as even though I have double glazing I get a lot of condensation. I have decoded to buy venetian blinds so that I can open them during the night while still remaining relatively private and possibly pointing a fan at the windows to help circulate the air. I have also found paint on Amazon claiming to help resisting damp build up that seems to have good reviews. Once again great video thumbs up from me.
Got an update on your damp? Would be great to know if the dehumidifier helped you 👍
@@andmath08 the ebac dehumidifier has definitely helped in our house
What an amazing video packed with useful info! Thanks subbed!
Very explanative and detailed review of this subject - thanks! I have a new build cottage with in-floor hydronic heating throughout. This heating system is considered amongst the most efficient available, but one of the drawbacks is that because the heating ‘element’ (ie 3” concrete floor in this case) is relatively cool (when compared to forced air furnace, or radiators, etc.), humidity is not reduced in the winter. So, even though I have relatively efficient double-glazed windows throughout (u value < 0.3), I’m experiencing a lot of condensation toward the bottom of the windows. It is resulting in the fir interior window frame getting damaged (triple coat Varathane wood stain peeling off, along with black mould accumulating on some of the North facing windows). Temperatures in the winter (cottage locate 2 hrs north of Toronto) are typically in the range of -5 to -25C overnight. I have installed both a whole home coil type dehumidifier, as well as an HRV. Unfortunately, due to the heavy structure of the building (large roof overhangs and cantilevered floor structure), I was only able to plumb it through walls directly adjacent to the utility room (ie limiting circulation). I would like to suggest that you recommend extraction fans/hoods/etc. with caution, because if you do not provide a means to provide ‘make-up’ air, you will create a net low pressure in the building, thereby drawing outside air into your building, wherever your weakest seals are, which will exacerbate your condensation issues in the winter 😬!
I've had a PIV system like the one you show, since 2010. It inputs into the central hall directly above the water radiator. It has vastly improved the moisture problems in my 1930s solid brick house. I still have other systems in place, but it is a good percentage of the solution to my damp issues in the winter.
Hi. I had one installed recently. It made no improvement to humidity after a week. Have you actually measured yours? Before and after?
@@thepaintedsock Sorry, I didn't do any Before and After recorded tests. I just know that the damp smell in my house went away after a while with the PIV system running continuously over about a 6 month period. There is a chance that you may have to be patient to see any measurable improvement as the humidity content in the atmosphere in your home may be being kept high by residual humidity in your soft furnishings, or in fact the buildings structure. "Air Conditioning" of any type does take a while to show any real results unless it is working inside a sealed water tight box. This isn't a cop out answer but in my modest experience, these things tend to need either to work in conjunction with a refrigerant or dessicant electric dehumidifier for faster results. Good luck! 👍👍.
@@thepaintedsock if you don't have anywhere for the "stale" air to go, you won't see a difference, you need ventilation such as weep vents or air bricks.
Does the filter need changing ours isn’t working as it was before the bathroom is drenched after showers and even just washing hair over the bathtub!
I had a PIV installed a few days ago, and there no has been no condensation on my windows since
Great information to have Charlie. I’ll start to implement as much of these tips as possible. This us the first time I’ve seen one of your videos. Subscribed now
Aw fantastic feature Charlie - really well explained and it all make perfect sense. Really is a complete guide - Cheers
I you have an attic, you can install a Positive Pressure Ventilation system. How many of you run your Bathroom fan 10-15 minutes after you’ve finished? Probably very few (you need to completely cycle through an entire room of air). PPV system is like having a tube running into your house from the roof. Imagine putting a large super hose into this and pouring water down it rapidly, your house would start filling up and eventually water would find its way out through the cracks in your windows/doors as its under pressure. That’s what a Positive Pressure air system does. It will work its way through the house forcing out stale damp air. Your house needs that change of air constantly to avoid stale stagnant air. Its called cycling, and you need to work out your volume of interior living space so you can install the correctly powered system that will cycle the correct amount/volume of air for your home.
Your furniture/ clothes/ lounge suite/ mattresses (can hold anything up 10 litres of water-water! Wow imagine sleeping in a bed with 10 litres of water in it!) must be purged of this moisture before you will be healthy. So the system will take a few months before you truly have a healthy home, but you will notice it after a few days with the firs at signs (no weeping on the windows). Leave cupboard doors and any spaces with closed doors ajar so air can flow. Its all about air movement and pressure.
most Fans have a built in timer or humidistat
@fabmanly1070
Would we need Trickle vents on the windows for PIVs to work? None of the rooms have ventilation holes in the wall but have trickle vents in the windows. We plan to change the windows and I wonder if I have to get tricke vents in it for the air to flow. Apologies if its a silly question, but the trickle vents are all dusty and mouldy.
@@JayL123 Had to look up trickle vents. We don’t have them in New Zealand. Air, like water will always find the easiest exit point. We never had any of that in my homes with PPV’s. Talk to an installer near you. We also have two positions for our handles to be positioned on our windows, so they can be left ajar if needed, but still locked. Air will always find a way out.
New windows are good and bad. Good to seal, but bad because they are so good at sealing up. But as you say, you have these extra vents that sit hove your windows.
We had an Envirovent PIV installed. The house we moved into was extremely humid, loads of mould growing on the metal window frames, and in cold corners of bedrooms. It completely solved the problem 100%. The electric it uses is minimal, few pounds a year. It does warm the air if it's cold, but it also has the effect of pushing down the warm air from radiators that collect at the top of the stairs, so the net result is it doesn't cool the house. Totally silent and no condensation on windows at all. Washed jeans even dry inside in record time! :) Our downstairs is quite open plan, so the air coming in does circulate quite well. We got the control unit with it, and after the moisture level of the house was sorted, we just run it on trickle mode now, only turn it up if we're drying several loads of clothes in the same day.
Thanks for this Richard. I'm going to install one in time for the winter. Just mulling over which manufacturer to go for but I'm interested in what you say about the Envirovent. Was there any particular reason you went for this over the Nuaire or Vent Axia?
@@CharlieDIYte No particular reason, it was the 1st one I saw and didn't know there were others. The model they do now is newer than the one we have, but it's still working great. Just had the filter on it changed few months ago. It can feel a little draughty at times, as our main sitting area is below the stairs where it's located, which is why we insisted on having the remote to turn it down. Normally they set it to normal and you don't get the remote. But I think the new ones integrate with a smart phone app.
What a great video. I watched it twice to make sure i didn't miss anything.
Very comprehensive and fantastically explained.
An excellent video!
Thanks mate 🙏
brilliant timing charlie! I am experiencing condensation and mildew issues. you are a natural teacher for explaining things well done.
PIV looks very interesting.
thank you sooo much
Tim
I fitted a heat recovery ventilation system in our barn conversion 18 years ago. It was the best money I ever spent. I've fitted it in other dwellings since and I'd go as far to say I'll never live in a house without MVHR again. It should be mandatory in all new builds. I've never come across a house that can't be retrofitted, with a bit of effort and the will to do it. They might cost (£4-6,000), but they're easy enough to fit by any competent DIYer. They should be a priority ahead of frivolous things like fancy cars and expensive holidays. They will improve every day of your life spent in your home.
High praise, but how does it improve your life so much?
John Russell is correct that MVHR is the answer, and having fitted it 18 years ago he was well ahead of the pack. I work with MVHR daily, but the company that work for now only install MHRV in new build houses. It's perfectly correct that with effort you can retrofit virtually any home, but to work at it's best the house should be airtight and insulated to a very high standard, and typically that's not practical in an older home.
In the course of my work I have seen poorly installed MHRV by builders and well installed MHRV by DIY'er, but typically a retrofit has so many constraints on the type of ducting you can use and the optimal design layout that whilst very worthwhile and a huge benefit over not having it, it almost certainly will not approach the effectiveness achieved in a new build with an equally high standard of airtightness and insulation. The bottom line here is that all new homes SHOULD have MHRV and the cost is very low if installed at the right stage in the build.
@@rtaitm simply they continously extract the stall stagnant moisture laden air with fresh filtered and tempered air...whilst recovering upto 90% of the heat energy....24/7.
They will be mandatory in new houses within 5 years id say if the government are truly serious about nett zero carbon aspirations
Amazing professional video, no bullshit, straight to what we need with simple clear explanations. Brilliant.
Thanks Dominic. The hygrometers are well worth getting and if condensation is a real problem PIVs seem to be the answer. There's a lot of love for them in this Comments feed.
Amazing advice just what I needed. Just moved into a cottage built in 1840s and having the same issues now winter is here, will be following your suggestions for sure!
Thanks Nathaniel. Bottom line, PIVs are probably the most effective solution but just being aware of how much moisture we generate and taking steps to reduce it are half the battle. 👍
I'm a fan of DIY Home Automation so I bought cheap Xiaomi Aqara Temp/Humidity/Pressure sensors, now I measure all of them around the house and everything is parsed to the database. In the bathroom, my fan turns on when it needs to turn on - to reduce humidity and not when you switch the light on. Sometimes it turns on by itself when there is a spike in humidity. Home Assistant is amazing for automating stuff like these but I understand this is far beyond the scope of this channel. Luckily I don't have too many problems with humidity, it stays around 40-60% in winter, the house is insulated and the windows are double glazed.
Very cool indeed. You should install this for landlords. You'd make a fortune!
My job is a water damage and mould restoration. And u have done ur home work well done.
Thanks Lee - I really appreciate that and it's always good to hear positive feedback from a pro!
Wow,
This has been the best explained detail video I have seen so far.
Thanks
Thanks, glad you found it useful 👍
Thank you for your time spent doing this video. Very informative and helped me alot. I live on a narrowboat and use the Meaco one you were showing. I can confirm that leaving curtains open slightly really helps. Thanks again.
You're welcome, Karlos. Glad to hear you agree with me on the curtain point!
Recently installed a drimaster after having condensation and mould issues. It has made the hallway colder but has cured my condensation issues
Me too, the version without the heater. It makes the hall a little colder but that's no real hassle. RH is 50% with 90%+ outside RH.
Good video, very interesting. I live in an old single glazed apartment. My bedroom windows were terrible. I tend to aim a fan on them at night and there's no condensation. I realise this is probably not getting rid of the moisture in the room, but it is saving the window frames from all the water. What do you think of this, a fan isn't expensive to run, and I find the noise actually helps me sleep. I haven't seen much said about using a fan to circulate the air.
Thanks Charlie; we have had all similar issues in our very basic and old French cottage; and your explanations and analysis make so much sense, We already have a dehumidifier (compressor type) and now we are considering purchasing another one as they do work exceptionally well to keep damp away ! Thank you.
Thanks Glyn. If you can, get a PIV installed. It will be the most effective solution. Nuaire or Vent Axia.
Absolutely brilliant article, thank you 🙏
Very informative, thank you Charlie
You're welcome!
I've had a number of those nuaire (Positive Input Ventilation PIV) units fitted and running for around 15 years. The walls used to drip. The windows used to be covered in damp and the window seals covered in mould. As soon the unit was fitted, the condensation immediately stopped. Didn't even need to wipe the windows in the morning. The original units did not have a heater element. I was happy to put up with the slight chill in the air. The second unit was fitted for free as a warranty replacement (just near the end of the 5 year warranty.) I am on the third unit now. One with the 400W heating element. Have never used the element. It came with a fan controller(wireless) to allow for boost function for use while cooking/ drying clothes etc. A switch for the heater element. Also a wireles. humidistat. There are also numerous settings that can be set from within the PIV unit itself once it is fitted. I wouldn't be without one!
Thanks so much for the comment invaluable! I think I'm going to have to find a way to install one of these at some point. The comments today have been unanimously in favour of them. 👍
Hi Furqan, can you tell me which brand of PIV you bought and what part of the world you live in?
@@gekcho I live in the UK. The brand was Nuaire Drimaster.
Great video very well explained, thank you.
Hi there, gradually finding my way round RUclips and at last someone who does thorough, practical, informative researcher on the topic being covered and can explain things well - a great communicator. So my query - I have moved round the country over the years and the focus on any house improvement was always about getting as much insulation into the loft to save energy, be warmer and save money. Now I have come across the problem of the cost-effectiveness to add extra loft insulation, in a correct manner for each insulation type and whether a vapour barrier is needed and/or air gaps suffice to avoid the ever increasing problem of condensation.. This refers specifically to my house which appears to have the original inter-joist thin layer of fibre glass, inter joist insulation boards (60mm) which has then been boarded over for storage. After 10 years, the loft seems dry most of the time with the vented gutter fascias doing their job except after long periods of rain. We also live near the sea and get higher rh values than most through the year. It is worth adding that, in planning some additional loft work, (1. increasing boarded area in my loft and 2. adding a another layer of insulation and then boarding for storage in my son’s new build) queries about methods for adding more insulation and its value for money have arisen. My son’s house already has the regulation amount roof insulation.
Essentially, looking through the internet and reading around, there is a huge discussion about the role of loft insulation and condensation and whether vapour membrane is or isn’t necessary in the construction; also the correct way to put this material in to place. If you can shed any light on this we would be extremely pleased.
We have a PIV unit in our bungalow. It fixed the problems we had with damp over night. No problems with cold air at all. We just run it very slow
piv whats that ?
@@DerekHundik Google PIV Ventilation - loads of information!!!
Great video, about two years ago we did similar research and decided on installing a nuaire PIV in the upstairs hallway. Humidity levels dropped in the problem room from +70% to 50-60%. We chose the heated PIR and did notice chilly air being pumped at the start so we do increase the heat in the winter. Electricity bills were not drastically impacted.
I concur. Only run our PIV at night.
I have read that as moist airvin house, naturally rises to attic, there is a risk that that very same humid air can be pumped back into house. Similarly if attic is vented via eaves etc. Fresh air in Attic can also be very moist.... Any thoughts?
@@abutw0 Moisture naturally rises with warmer air to the ceiling, where it gets trapped. The fresh air coming in from outside is almost certainly of lower humidity than the air inside the house.
This video is the most helpful video I think I've ever watched. Thank you!
Thanks so much. Chuffed you found it useful. Here's the update ruclips.net/video/NbtijHKy2Vo/видео.html which is a bit simpler and to the point.