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I was born in 1947 we lived in a council house with a coal fire. We never had any damp or mould problems. We had an oven in the kitchen linked to the coal fire. My mother often dried clothes on a clothes horse put in front of the oven, and still no damp problems. We didn't have radiators all we had was a back boiler behind the fire to heat the water. Coal fires allowed the house to breathe. Later on, the council fitted a gas boiler and radiators. That's when the problems started, we started getting damp problems, the windows were always damp on the inside. Many years later I had a Housing Association bungalow, due to my health problems. The Housing Association in their great wisdom decided to insulate the loft to the current standard. A damp-proofing firm filled the cavity walls with insulation( pumped in). That was when the bungalow started getting damp problems. Mould started to appear on every wall. It became a constant battle to keep the walls mould-free. The windows were always streaming with water. My wife and I are in our late seventies and in very poor health, I try to keep windows open as much as possible, all the time in summer. We are causing more problems by having our homes over-insulated. The house needs to breathe. Cavity walls were designed to do just that. There is no great mystery as to why people have damp problems. Many people can not afford to heat their homes as due to an incompetent government fuel prices have gone through the roof. People on minimum wages and pensioners on a single basic pension, like myself are struggling to live. In this country, the rich get rich and the poor are forgotten about. The basic pension starts at £130, you don't get far on that. I would like to see if the Prime Minister or our overpaid MPs could survive on what I have to live on. THERE IS NO WAY THEY COULD.
In a short while there will be no one left to remember the intense long lasting heat of a coal fire…never any mould in my grandparents house like you say, wishing ironing all sorts going on. Everyone had better get used to being cold in the future, all very well until you get older.
If mould formed once, it will want to form again, either left over spores or new ones. With regular maintenance though it's easy to keep on top of. I think a problem is a lot of people seem to expect an area to require no cleaning or anything for years at a time which is rather silly. Regular light maintenance will keep areas clean and mould free. Get back into the old fashioned spring clean routine (though spring is bad time as the weather is still damp, I do it in the summer when things dry better).
Charlie I used to do 100s of mould treat jobs in my last job. What you have done here is perfect and new mould will always form on the surface due to your poor ventilation and damp shoes ect. If it was coming from the wall it would push through damaging the plaster and showing rot on the skirting. Good video thanks
Thanks Peter, coming from a pro like yourself I really appreciate that endorsement. Good point about the damaged plaster and rotting skirting. I should have mentioned that👊
Yup - I have rising damp in an INTERNAL brick wall. I chiselled off the plaster to about a foot high and let the bricks be bare for several months. The wooden skirting board was rotten on the back side. The floors either side of the wall had been concreted, so I was only able to install DryRods at the level of the TOP of the lowest row of bricks. Months later I replastered the wall down to about 6" above the floor, so about 1 1/2 rows of bricks were still bare, above the DryRods line. Left that for some more months, and then covered the new plaster with Zinsser's Shellac-based sealer paint (the wall was to be re-wallpapered), and fitted plastic skirting boards WITH some ventilation areas so that the damp rising into the very lowest row of bricks could still escape -SLOWLY- into the room. Everything was great for some months, but then eventually the SALTS in the wall burst through the shellac paint! The bricks HAD been treated with salts neutraliser on the other side (in an understairs cupboard). Still not rewallpapered yet - looking for the next thing to try (!)
@@hunchanchoc8418 Tough one ? Maybe (if I read well exactly ‘What’ you did ?) The other side of wall application against salts just forced them to cross the wall to the other side ? Water vapour and therefore salts, has to find a way out ...somewhere ? I am only learning it must be said...it’s a subtle learning curve...Damp that is ...(NOT rising damp !)
@@gortagnan You're probably right. It's disheartening. I'm thinking the only likely 'solution' will be taking the plaster off yet again and installing dimple sheet, and plasterboard over. :-/
Excellent video Charlie. You have gone to great lengths to explain what you are doing, the materials you have used (along with chatting to the suppliers), the way you have carried out the work and the honest results. This vid is a classic example. You really can't have done more. I'm a handyman and have found your videos soooo helpful. Please do keep posting.
Iv been a decorator for 27 years iv been treating mould a lot over the past few months and the way you’ve just shown is the correct way. 👍 ventilation is the key, people never got mould back in the day before upvc windows. But still trickle vents could be opened but they never are when I call to treat mould
I had a black mold problem after a flood, I treated several times with white vinegar sprayed on and painted over with normal emulsion paint, still ok two years on.
Thanks for the update Charlie. We moved into a 1969 bungalow a year last Oct which had big condensation issues. We watched your comprehensive video on mould and dehumidifiers. Bought the EBAC worked fantastically well. The hygrometer gave us all the relevant readings. The air bricks had no through flow it had been built with no means of air circulating inside, so It was damp and cold. New double glazing was fitted this July after which cavity wall insulation was added.That meant having a PIV fitted.It has transformed the bungalow in so many ways.Will be renew the loft insulation next year. Your time and effort over the years would have transformed many projects and always look forward to your finding. I have also passed the info on to others who have also benefited especially those in social housing who now can show evidence to the landlord. I now have a EBAC that i will pass on to a family member as it is not required.Once again many thanks for your time and effort.
Richard great to hear from you. It's so heartening hearing feedback like this. I had a similar air brick issue in my old London house. The mortgage company made certain damp work a requirement of the loan and a few years later I found the company who installed them hadn't bothered to knock them all the way though to the underfloor cavity. You've done everything right there, right down to installing a PIV. So glad to hear it's sorted out all the problems. Must be very satisfying now, living in your wonderfully dry, warm home. You just want to have the odd trickle vent open on the windows now you've got them double glazed, to help the PIV do it's work. 👍
I used to develop antifouling paint for the marine industry. I reckon you are probably right. For the biocide to work it needs to get into the beasties. Could be that the very top layer of paint has depleted it's biocide. So it's efficiency is dropping a bit. Revisit it next year. Suspect it would be a touch worse. In marine the sea water brings the biocide to the surface. Not sure the biocide deeper down this coating will be able to come to the surface to work? Unless the damp does it (which is plausible). Nothing another coat of paint wouldn't fix I reckon.
Thanks for the honest revisit! Lots of DIY videos out there but it is easy to temporarily fix an issue. How a method fairs in the long term is important info we dont often get. Also, your caulking videos have me producing much better results. Indistinguishable (or better) than jobs I have paid professionals to do.
I had a constant war with a small patch of wall adjacent to a chimney breast in a previous home, but finally nailed it by freeing up air space and stripping the wall back and treating it before leaving. Glad you sorted it. I just used Damp Seal, by the way. Difficult to apply, but works well.
Excellent news behind the bench! I used your solution and products (as per previous bench video) on a couple of areas that have caused annual hassle and now, so far, not a spot of anything! I will update again in about April next year to see how these areas have fared over the winter months. Thanks again - brilliant thinking, balanced advice, demos and results!
Great video mate and thank you for the mention. But for anyone else reading this I would strongly suggest heading over to the buy me a coffee section and discord as it really is a fantastic group of people constantly helping each other out and the advice that some of the guys give is worth it's weight in gold!
I picked up some Mould Wash Concentrate and Anti Mould Paint Additive direct from Permaguard. Cost about £28 inc delivery for both. The great thing about the paint addictive is that you can add it to which ever paint colour you wish and are not restricted to the availability of which ever brand is in the local store. The mould wash works a treat for any surface. I applied both in April and have not even seen an attempted regrowth!
Same problem Charlie. Used 70% vinegar to kill the mould. Sprayed it, let it dry. Repeated it a few times. Then used Zinnzar paint. Let it dry. Left it dry. & few months later painted the wall with emulsion paint. Looks great after 7 months. No mould issues
I’ve treated dry rot in my career and have always got to the source of the problem. Having seen terrible damage caused by water, dampness lack of air and indeed light has made me quite cautions of how to treat any signs of dampness anywhere. My tuppence worth would be to treat for the potential of a given situation. Yes, it may mean more work and expense but peace of mind having done the work to eliminate nasty surprises later sometimes years later. I would ensure the substrate: the plaster and possibly the brick/ stone behind is sprayed with a fungicide and allowed to dry. Irrigation by injection of some fungicide into to the wall. (ensure the outside soil is at least 150 mm below the DPC if on the ground floor, that assumes there is a DPC!). Then I’d apply your recommended paints. The possibility of damp contributing by ingress through the wall from outside must be checked out and dealt with. As this appears to be simply condensation from warmer air meeting a cold wall and unventilated sufficiently on this wall is good to go.
Great video, totally agree with PIV units, I've had mine for 1 year and has made massive difference on condensation forming and subsequent mould growth ( I don't have any regrowth)
Fitted a PIVin our 40 year old bungalow , absolutely transformed our house. Had mould/condensation forming on walls and windows. Virtually eliminated now. Absolutely brilliant system.
@@fanfeck2844 Not at all. I opted for the Nuaire system with the heater option. It just hums a bit like air conditioning. It’s just a revelation in our house.
Thanks Jamie. Good luck with the treatment. Make sure you dry the wall fully and after applying the BIN I think a paint that's impervious to moisture and with biocide in like Perma White is important. 👍
Glad you revisited. I have issues in the narrow recesses either side of my chimney Brest. Partly caused by the property being empty a lot and therefore not enough general airflow and heating use. Will try the BIN option and hopefully it will mean it buggers off and stops stressing me out. 😂
Had exactly the same case as you..followed you're advice..sorted.Even removed backing boards in kitchen floor cupboards..mould gallore..treated and painted..not a trace after 10 months now.Thank you.
After watching your original video I used the Zinsser on my office/gym walls, converting it from a disused bedroom that had very bad mould/condensation. After using the mould killer, the walls were left for a month with lots of summer air flowing through the room. I then used the water based Zinsser BIN and the Permawhite. I have to say I am very impressed with the Permawhite, just one coat was enough for me, my only complaint is the smell, it really does wiff! I've also fitted a humidistat extractor fan as there will be a lot of huffing and puffing due to exercise. So it will be interesting to see if any mould forms, but thanks for the information Charlie, your videos are extremely helpful.
Sounds like you did everything spot on there, Mark. I like the fact you used the summer weather to thoroughly dry out the wall before sealing it. BIN is shellac based - presumably that's what you meant? Yes the Perma White is fantastic. It's not surprising it's a bit wiffy given its solvent properties and the biocide, but an acceptable trade off IMO given its benefits. Great work 👍
Great video Charlie, good idea to return to this a year on. We live in a listed building with a semi basement that suffered from damp and mould. We’ve had great success with Wickes Mould Protect emulsion paint which I think is similar to those discussed in your video.
Hi Charley , I have used the insulated plasterboard and I think it would be perfect for your location . You could put it straight onto the wall ,making a thermal break which would prevent a cold surface to course a problem Best wishes and kind regards 😀👍👍👍
Yes absolutely and in fact I've done 3 bedrooms upstairs with this. With the wall now warm, the dew point can't be reached and so mould doesn't form. With insulated plasterboard you just have to be careful about potential cold bridging in corners, plug sockets and around the windows. I'm still learning the perfect technique, but got it pretty good in our bedroom where I battened the wall, infilled with 1 inch celotex PIR board, foil taped over the battens and then screwed insulated plasterboard on top. That way there was no cold bridging where you have to cut through the plasterboard for electrical sockets.
I really appreciate your videos and help, we have a persistent damp/mould problem from a 1930s house with solid walls upstairs. I’ve gone Zinsser mould killer then BIN where needed after your other vid. The emulsion throughout needed a different approach. Brewers sold me an additive - Owatrol VC175 -so you can keep a paint colour but add a fungicide. Fingers crosses that works … I think it was about £20 that would treat 10L paint.
As some of the others, if moisture is within your walls, sealing it with paint can cause long term problems. I had this is our property, paint worked but long term it came back. Solution was for our stone wall (no cavity) was to remove the plaster, tank it with a slurry then plater over - long term, its never returned. Its important to identify the exact source of the problem. Have you ever measured what's going on it your walls? I also have a PIV installed, made little difference, main solution as you was to run a dehumidifier.
The walls are fine in my case which is one of the reasons the mould didn't come back. Previously painted in a cheap contract matt with insufficient ventilation, a combination of slightly better air circulation and this Zinsser perma White paint has sorted the problem.
In my experience dehumidifier is go to option. It was a dear one, couple of hundred but never thought of mould again. I live in a flat, though. So not many external walls and one is enough just have to wheel it around from room to room.
Yes, in that video I mentioned, the main thrust of the video was about dehumidifiers. Great to vastly reduce relative humidity around the home but they won't stop condensation forming on windows and the like. Crucial though, particularly in an apartment like yours when perhaps you're producing a lot of moisture from hanging up washing, cooking and bathing, without there being anywhere for it to escape.
Zinzer is brilliant paint, I put Silver Shield Antimicrobial Paint Additive in my paint, No recuring mould since over 2 years, not even on the surface. Silver Shield is made with Silver Ion which when in contact with bacteria or mould spores they just die out before they get the opportunity to keep doubling up.
I had quite bad black mould in the disabled wet room. After a look through the internet I used a 3% solution of Hydrogen Peroxide in a spray bottle, left for 10 minutes, gave it a scrub wiped down,. when dry I painted it with the Powerfix anti mould and mildew paint from Lidl, it's latex based so water resistant too. The mould hasn't come back after 2 years. Why did I use that method? Because it's inexpensive compared to those specialist paints by big names and most important, it works.
Good video with great result. Personally I'd vent the wall as its an outside wall. However each to there own. If something else works then brilliant 👍👍.
Thank you for all your videos. We have just returned to the UK after more than 3 decades in Canada. Your videos provide an amazing resource for our situation. So much as moved on since we were living here before. I noticed in my mother’s 1900 ish terraced house that mould would form where furniture was pushed up against outside walls. So I wonder if one approach would be to design such furniture with some kind of ventilation built in. Perhaps in the case of your bench: holes in the boards at the back? Keep up the good work!
A good idea to have a review of something like this as it is useful to see if something worked. A long term review of some of the other projects like the recent gutter and downpipe paint, built-in wardrobes would be good to see too. Though the Zinsser BIN seems expensive it does seem to cover well and the tin last for a long time. The mould on that wall would appear to be on the surface rather than a wall that had a damp issue. We had a similar issue with our ceiling in one room, thoroughly cleaned it and checked it wasn't caused by anything else apart from condensation at a cold spot. Used the BIN and then just used a normal ceiling emulsion over that. It has not returned so was effective. That one tin of BIN has been used on loads of projects on MDF and some other problem areas so doesn't seem as expensive as I initially thought. Our house is 30+ years old and the original wooden framed windows were great for ventilation as the quality of them was awful. Replacing them meant the ventilation got worse and mould was more apparent. Apart from ourselves, main source of moisture is the kettle and cooking which is hard to avoid. At this time of year also washing drying indoors. Improving the ventilation would help but the dehumidifier has been a significant factor in fighting moisture. It is a case of spotting problem areas, treating them and then monitoring the area.
Hi Glen, thanks for this. Yes you getting a dehumidifier was a great investment. Having a few hygrometers around the house is also very useful. If the RH goes much advice 60% you know you need to seeing into action in the room in question. I try and leave a few windows on the half latch during the day but that's easy for me living in the countryside and working from home. I appreciate it's problematic for others to do this, although if you have trickle vents on the bare windows I'd say keep them all open 👍
Thanks Tahir. Yes not ideal in terms of the lack of air circulation but by providing an impermeable surface protected with biocide, there's nothing for the mould to latch onto. 👍
Thing is if u remove what ever surface u still have it in the air. It Is a natural element in air. So if damp hasn't been sorted it will grow back. As I said a year ago. Wash with distilled water then paint with bin 123 and paint an anti mould paint. I've been doing iy foe years no call backs
Thanks Lee. Agreed. If you can't insulate the wall (to prevent the dew point being reached) or increase ventilation, this is the best option as at least you're preventing moisture sinking into the wall, and with the biocide, preventing mould taking hold.
On the Zinsser product placement: a few carpenters and decorators I know recommend Zinsser products for pretty much every specialist situation every time. There are undoubtedly alternatives, but they're all going to be more expensive than regular paint anyway - so why bother potentially saving a few quid to gamble on whether they will work, when you know Zinsser will? I'd add that my natural inclination is to aways go for a "good enough" cheaper option where possible.
Yes people occasionally say my videos are stuffed with product placement but they have to be as you need all the tools or paint to do the job. My responsibility is to only place stuff I believe passionately in as being one of the best options for the job. I too know a lot of decorators who swear by Zinsser so that's one of the reasons I recommend the stuff so much. Its performance speaks for itself though 👍
Charlie the area of wall you exposed when you removed the access panel looked a bit mouldy to me, a decent sized vent fixed into that panel should help air flow. It would be good to get a scientific point of view on mould removal/eradication, a painters opinion or somebody who had previously worked in the industry, well you know, who knows what to believe.The Mould removal industry is purportedly worth $200 Billion dollars, surely there is somebody with a white coat and suitable qualifications who has scientific evidence of how to kill and prevent mould from reoccurring based on sound evidence? Love your channel...
As others say don’t apologise for a long video especially when it is well presented and informative. New subscriber. Now to figure out the cost benefit analysis. ps My mum and I were given advice 40 years ago when I had lots of chest infections, the gp said lots of central heated houses are too dry and recommended a bowl of water in the room to humidify the living room. Long before Amazon and those gadgets. Another mystery. Thanks
I use perma white satin on most of my interior woodwork. On flat doors and window boards it rolls out beautifully without the need for tipping off. Dries as flat as oil and a finish as good as spraying. The only negative is the brushes clog up fairly quickly and in temperatures above 20° it dries too fast, turning my brushes into a solid!
Good to hear it Andy, thanks for that. Yes I find that with Zinsser BIN too. It's my go to primer but you can't use it in the heat of the summer because it dries before you can get it off the brush.
@@CharlieDIYte BIN is fabulous stuff and is better rolled with a 4" emulsion roller X 2 coats. You don't get dragging by rolling. When I do have to brush it then I work it in small amounts quickly! Coverstain dries beautiful and flat with an enamel like finish.
Great video Charlie I remember your first video removing the mould.if treated right mate it shouldn’t come back Just as long as you’ve got good ventilation simples 👍👍👍👍
People saying you can't treat mold like that are mistaking mold and fungus. Mold forms on the surface of the wall. Fungus infects the whole wall. They look quite similar but you can remove mold by scratching the paint and the fungus might still be visible even deep under the paint. Although it is also possible to remove fungus by scratching if you find it before it infects the deeper parts. I have a mold problem in my rental place too but I am not allowed to paint the walls (the owner is weird) so I beat up the mold by understanding what mold needs to form and grow. Basically an unusually cold surface that allows the humidity in and doesn't have much airflow. So I mold proofed the areas where mold was creating by first scratching the wall, then using a mold killing spray and drying the place off and then by neatly putting some waterproof pee-and-stick foil on the wall. The humidity doesn't sink into the wall so the mold has no way to make roots in the wall and the mold that was in the wall (assuming it survived the spray) has no humidity to grow. I am checking the wall every now and then but so far there seems to be no problem. I am only afraid of the fungus that is also in the walls, which is forming tiny black spots under the foil in some places (not all places where the mold was, just some, where the wall was in a particularly bad shape and i failed to scratch deep enough). But it isn't my problem. The fungus was in the walls way before I moved in (it was covered by fresh paint when I moved in and grew through it after a few months) and is caused by bad isolation of the outside wall. But it can't get through the foil and it's spread is limited to one or two tiny spots that don't seem to be growing much for now. The paint you are using seems to be a waterproof one, just like my foil. Unless there is a crack the mold won't get through. There might be some fungus slowly growing in the wall under it though. I wish I could paint my rental place with some waterproof paint too. The one I have now seems almost like a blackboard chalk, comes off with every wipe and clearly changes color with just a little bit of water. Which is also why I am not afraid of using the peel and stick foil on it - it will not damage the wall, it will safe it from any dirt and splash instead.
I'd never use acrylic paint in a bathroom again. Solvent based paints are much much more mould resistant. I repainted the roof of our ensuite with a semi-gloss enamel but left the walls as-is. Any mould buildup now has a distinct variation between wall and ceiling. It only needs a light wipe with mould spray cleaner to clean it off every few months.
Great work. I agree, even an acrylic eggshell isn't a patch on something like Perma White. Regular cleaning as you say, and you don't have a problem. Try and keep the bathroom window open as long as possible after showers and baths, to get that vapour out of the window rather than circulating around your house.
Hi Charlie - another great video thanks for posting. I missed the earlier one but have a patch of mold to treat at my house and my daughters so will be copying your approach. I think you should give Toolstation a heads-up before you post similar videos in future though as they appear to have sold out of Perma White! I got the last one in Ormskirk and nationally they have sold 18 in 24 hours - no coincedence I think !
Thanks Julian. Yes, and it would make what I'm doing so much more sustainable if I could occasionally benefit more from sales generated from my vids but there's very little inclination from the retailers on this. Particularly the larger ones at any rate. Another great product is the Zinsser Ceiling 5 in 1. Primes, seals and has the biocide - all in 1. From memory though I don't think it can be tinted, which the Perma White can. 👍
Let me tell you my story cause I have dealt with this many times. I have garage boxes and they have no heating or light or whatsoever and are not attached to a house only in a group to each other. Had a mould problem on the ceiling years ago. I cleaned it wit a brush and high concentrated water/chlorine solution, turning my old jogging suite from black to yellow and since I am bald, no damage to the hair hehehe. After some days of drying I painted it with a local Dutch brand of concealer and paint from Alabastine. Since there were some holes above the door for ventilation I also made two in the back wall to generate some draft. Now I rent them out and 2 years ago, I changed renters and did a check up, all was still great, after 10 or more years, very happy about the product. Buts as you mentioned, FIRST GET RID OF THE MOULD IN A GOOD WAY, then paint !
Well while all these paints do work As you said yourself it had started to come back even slightly. It is harder for mound to reform on these paints because of their ingredients within. But while the paint is doing what it supposed to do. The initial cause remains. Yes by all means use such anti mould paints and products. But the initial cause the lack of ventilation if that is not tackled. Then mould will return as your video has shown even if it was ever so slight in a spore shaped pattern. By the way the mould behind the panel it will spread. It will get behind the timber frame. Your dryer is vented to the outside. But remember the dryer ducting to the outside creates heat in the air around it. as does the dryer when it is on and the washing machine The heated air from that can cause condensation on cold water pipes and cold walls and this creates the ideal conditions for mould So I would be putting an air vent in that outside wall and get an air flow going
Thanks this helped the house has it everywhere we stripped concrete wall downstairs and repainted it looks good been about a year now but I see what ya mean it needs another coat and I'm going to put heat lamp and ultraviolet bulb to see what happens they say ultraviolet will do something . Zinseer paint is good product I had to save my money but it's worth it
Charlie, have you considered installing a bar greenhouse heater on a thermostat? I'm considering this option in my coat cupboard to make sure wet coats and shoes are dried. Re: PIV, I installed one in a client's house about 12 months ago, the only complaint they had was the constantly circulating fan which they said cooled the landing more than they expected. It does make a difference to condensation!! Thanks again for the updated video.
Not a bad idea Nathan. You just have to remember the moisture is still going into the air, so bare that in mind as part of an all round house strategy. It's so worth getting a hygrometer or 3 just to keep an eye on humidity around the house. Should have mentioned it in this vid although I went into a lot of detail on it in my main condensation video ruclips.net/video/TIDb-pdOnXM/видео.html 👍
Have had a PIV for 3 years now, absolutely amazing. I've said goodbye to damp wallpaper, mouldy curtains and clothing and steamed up windows. No need to ever open windows. A bit colder on the landing but getting rid of damp makes it worthwhile. I bought the DriMaster-ECO PIV with a heater but only used the heater once as it's pretty useless and expensive to run, so would not recommend that, using it unheated costs the same as leaving a low watt bulb on 24/7 and I haven't noticed much difference on my electric bills.
It looks like the system has worked to a level because it seems that the mould has became a dormant state where it’s appeared again but to a state where it cannot grow or do anything basically it’s asleep or dead ish
I think it's basically created an impervious layer which the moisture in the air can't get a hold onto, and the biocide p prevents the mould forming. Air circulation would be ideal but in the absence of this, this is the next best thing.
I can second that white vinegar. Living in a old Irish farmhouse I regularly do a "mold patrol" with my spray bottle of white vinegar with added tea tree oil for extra mold killing power.
I find that TSP (trisodium phosphate) is a good treatment for removing surface mould, followed up with the paints you suggested. The real battle is fixing the root cause of the condensation though (as noted in the video).
Exactly. We have a far from ideal situation given the lack of ventilation but I used a dehumidifier to dry out the wall before I treated it, and at least this paint solution has comprehensively prevented any moisture getting back into the wall. I think the result is pretty satisfactory given the circumstances. 👍
@@CharlieDIYte What plaster does it have? How did you dry the wall? Have you not now trapped any moisture which is cold attracting high enviroment moisture levels creating condensation to find your cold non ventalated area?
Charlie, have you tried Kontrol crystals & trap. I was sceptical but bought 3 bags and a trap for under my stairs. No smell and mold has appeared since. I was really impressed and the 3 bags have lasted about 2 years.
I moved in to our house in 2013. When remodelling the upstairs we removed two built in cupboards and found tons of mould behind them (on walls and ceiling). My mate recommended Zinsser products (B-I-N) and something else from their brand. 9 years on there is no mould to speak of in those areas.
Really glad to hear that. I suspect you're managing moisture better than the previous owners too as discussed here ruclips.net/video/NbtijHKy2Vo/видео.html
@@CharlieDIYte Just watched that video, really informative. We do have old windows and they get really wet overnight (but only in the bedrooms). They are also not installed very well so mould does creep up around the windows (need to wipe it every 4-6 weeks and usually treat with bleach once a year). We are replacing all windows and front door in January so I wonder how those will fare against condensation. Personally I'm against trickle vents because they ruin the window frame, happy to just leave them slightly open if I need to. I also want to insulate the suspended floor - all of which will add to air tightness and probably more moisture in the air so I'll probably use some of your hints 😉
Could it be that dust is on the wall forming a coating which is not in contact with the paint and this is what the mould is growing on? I believe that a large part of household dust is human skin flakes which mould can grow on.
Hi Charlie, thanks for these 2 videos, really useful for our window reveals!. Our kitchen cabinets are installed on external walls (no choice unfortunately) and consequently get cold. Walls are old stone with rubble cavity infill. Before the days of youtube I injected a DPC to reduce/eliminate rising damp which helped a lot, and now wish I'd installed insulated plasterboard 😂 During windiest of winter there's a dreaded draft through the kick plate, fine gaps between the carcasses and pipe holes inside the sink cupboard. Good to have airflow but something tells me it's too much and possibly overworking our dehumidifier 😂I think it's blowing down the eaves and out through loose internal render. Tempted to fit loft insulation beneath the cupboards to reduce draft at the kickplate, which should be okay, but wondered what you think about spraying open cell foam between the wall and back of the carcass to fill the service void? Drilling 10mm holes 150mm apart, would allow me to poke the gun through and spray sections working from bottom to top, so it doesn't fall down, the lowest level would rest on the loft insulation. Apparently open cell foam is more breathable but doesn't transfer moisture. Does this sound a good idea to you? 😉
Another option is blowing in EPS beads behind them, using my leaf blower 😀there are some alcoves hidden behind plasterboard either end that might be letting a draft in. This could be a good option behind fitted wardrobes on cold walls - provided the beads can't escape. I'm hoping it will allow some airflow but also keep the walls warm.
@@CharlieDIYte if it's next to the washing machine there's a good chance you can plumb the tumble dryer into the drain so never have to empty the water container. That's what I did with mine. It's great.
Just wondering if the wall is solid or has a cavity , If its solid I would imagine it will need some sort of insulation to stop condensation forming on it ... Im no expert but it seems a logical step to take ...........
Great video in this world of sponsors, I love how you remain unbaised and even if u do get paid your open and honest. I have a question. I have a tiny amount of( 5cm ) on my ceiling. If u were to use zinser, would I have to paid the whole ceiling with the zinser white once the area is spot treated to ensure for a uniform colour wheel th the old ceiling white colour?
Thanks, I appreciate that. The problem with spot priming with the Zinsser BIN is you can get a bit of a raised area. However a bit of very gentle sanding of the edge to feather it in with day 240 grit sand paper, and I reckon it would hardly be noticeable. Zinsser do another great product Ceiling Pro 5 in 1 which removes the need to prime. In answer to your question, you would want to paint the whole ceiling as the sheen of the Perma White will be very different to your existing emulsion. Do consider why you've got the mould though, and where there's anything you can do to stop it returning, and check out my video on this if you haven't already ruclips.net/video/TIDb-pdOnXM/видео.html 👍
I think it depends how bad and why. I had a ceiling with mold and even with anti mold paint it would still come back, even after replacing the section with new anti mold paint.
Get an old spray bottle like "Detox" other bottles available, 50ml bleach to 500ml water mix (10:1), fill bottle, spray wall leave to dry.... Cheap as chips, now seal the wall... with a waterproof sealer (I assume you found the cause of the mould and removed). Keep your house ventilated, dry (45-55% humidity). Mould loves damp.
wrong! bleach only kills surface mould doesn't tackle it kill the roots like white distilled vinegar can! also you should never dilute anything you put on a wall for mould! common sense tells you that's putting more moisture back into the wall! your cheap as chips idea doesn't work and certainly won't last! charlie's method does however i'd tried so many solutions before i tried this and this is by far the best!
I used the Ronseal product three years ago in my mother's bathroom. The mould has returned in the worst areas and paint crazing is evident in other areas.
The bench has storage underneath but you can prob cut a hole in the bottom middle of the back panel to let air get in behind the bench. You could cut out a shelf that goes in the middle and rests on the two bases on either side, and cut out the back board underneath the shelf so you would get like a letterbox shape and you probably would then not even have those faint traces of mould coming back in 1 year.
Now this is going to sound strange and the first time I saw it done I nearly fell over. Wait until night or the room is dark and place a small flashlight (Maglite Penlight for example) on the surface of the wall so as to generate "raking light" (flashlight is positioned parallel to the wall surface) - you hold the light at full arm extension so your viewing angle is more or less perpendicular to the surface - if the surface is relatively flat and mold is present you will see mold that you ordinarily do not see in full light - works particular well on varnished surfaces like doors and cabinets and wooden beams. I use this techniques all the time to see the extent of a problem. My trusty Maglite is one of the older models that is not LED - I have never actually tried this with a Led flashlight. Sometimes you need one person to hold the light and wiggle it a bit depending on the surface and another person to stand back to observe. It is common to find mold behind cabinets because the air does not circulate and a micro climate exists.
I should also say that you can also find missing features like former windows outlines and nail holes in drywall and plaster with the same technique. We could probably trace Charlie's exterior crack repair on his home (his repairs were very good)
Thanks Gregory. That's a great tip. I had a couple of those non LED Maglites. Don't know what happened to them. Loved taking the glass cover off and standing the torch on it to use like a candle. 👍
Although mould and damp isn't a major problem in our bungalow, we do have a few places where it keeps reappearing after treatment, so the information about PIV interests me to help eradicate the areas we do have. A quick search for the Vent-Axia unit appears to have provided a potential solution and I'll research a bit more to see if it ticks all the boxes for us. Thank you.
You're very welcome. You only have to scroll down the comments of my Condensation video to see the love for PIVs. If you have loft space to install one I'd seriously consider it, bit mate sure you get one with a heater as the chilliness underneath it is the main complaint (not that everyone has an issue with this).
@@CharlieDIYte I've given this matter some thought and will be ordering the version with the heater. Loft space isn't an issue for us, so the main things to decide will be where the diffuser will be situated and whether the delivery ducting will benefit from being insulated. I'm working my way through your videos and finding all manner of helpful information. Thanks again.
Very interesting video. You being a "belt and braces" kind of guy I thought you might have drilled a few holes in the back of the bench to generate some airflow. Seems like the problem is almost negligible now, so good solution and some handy information delivered.
Thanks mate. That's not a bad idea, except with the baskets and storage boxes, even with ventilation holes there still wouldn't be sufficient air passing through.
@@CharlieDIYte Thanks for this Charlie, really interesting to come back to an old topic and verify the approach was effective. Assuming this is the only place in the house with any mould, and to add to the earlier comment here, could a small fan be installed into a hole in the bench at floor level (I'm thinking of those little USB fans). Even a trickle of fresh air could make a massive difference. Alternatively I went back to your home heating video and your video where you were insulating your solid stone walls in a bedroom where you talked about dew points (a topic I never fully understood until you explained it). Could you add a layer of Rockwool behind some plasterboard (or go for insulated plasterboard again) to push the dew point outside the property on this cold wall? I don't know the numbers off the top of my head, but you mentioned you have moved the bench out by a few inches, and 5cm of Rockwool behind some 9mm plasterboard might solve the problem? Only downside with this more drastic approach is you would need to remove the existing plaster on the wall and undo your hard work in the original video!
Charlie - Many thanks for this update. I have just ordered Zinsser gear as per your affiliate link... Please can you remind me of the paint/painting sundries online supplier you referred to in your "Fitted Wardrobe" epic.... Many thanks - Rupert.
@@CharlieDIYte Perfect - Many thanks. I am hoping to attend the P and D show at Coventry over the next couple of days and was wondering if they were exhibiting.......
all our married life we moved into new build, so (luckily) we had no such probs. In our retirement we moved into a 1950's well built house but immediately noticed some odd minor damp/condensation problems, nothing too bad just odd little corner patches here and there. Tried various remedies but the Ronseal and Zinnser products seem to work ok but not totally successful. A top end de-humidifier improved things big time but your advice about looking at the PIV systems seems to be a real answer. How much does an average install cost for a 3 bed house?
I honestly couldn't say, David. You could contact Nuaire and ask if they have any approved installers. Also, if you Google "PIV installers UK" a lot of companies come up, with the ability to get an online quote.
Sorry but I agree with Andres comment. There is no way to keep that drywall dry if it is adhered to the concrete. It will continue to get wet and continue to decay beneath the paint. I'm a renovation carpenter in Canada. The state of home conditions in the UK is very worrying to me. The entire country is doing the same thing, just covering it up and hoping for the best.
We don't use those PIV units here, as you would only be pushing cold damp air in to your house and blowing hot dry air out of your house. . We use something called a Heat Recovery Ventilator (HRV). it essentially blows warm DRIED air in to your home and the air that is pushed out pre-heats and drys the incoming air. Its a single unit and rather inexpensive.
Thanks Justin. I hear what you say but I think it over simplifies the problem. So in this situation (which is a solid wall rather than drywall) I used a dehumidifier to comprehensively dry out the structure pre and post treatment and prior to painting, as you'd see from the video. If like here you can't sort the ventilation issue out the important thing is to prevent moisture getting into the wall and this paint system does just that. On the PIV situation, again it's a little more complicated than that. Heating a house doesn't make the air drier, although it can feel like that. What it does is increase the ability of the air to hold moisture. So when you turn the heating on if you have a hygrometer your RH levels on it may go down. This doesn't mean there's less moisture in the air, it means the capacity of the air for holding moisture has gone up. Conversely, on a cold day outside RH levels may be close to 100% That doesn't mean the air is saturated, it simply means the capacity of the air to hold moisture is very low so actually there isn't a lot of moisture in the air. This is why you often get chapped lips on cold days - because the air is so dry it's drying out your lips. So going back to the PIV situation it's fine to funnel cold outside air into the house because the moisture content is much lower than the air it's replacing, but the main benefits of these systems is that they get all the air in the house circulating, preventing any air from lingering long enough for RH levels to rise to the point that the dew point is reached and the air dumps it's moisture onto whatever cold surface it's next to. Whether this is efficient for keeping heating bills down is another question, which is why HRVs are a good idea, as you say, but they don't pummel the air around like PIVs do. In this video in I'm focusing on systems that you can easily retrofit to solve damp mould and condensation issues.
I think it's also worth bearing in mind that we do install heat recovery ventilation units in the UK but mainly in new builds. This is because an HRV system needs ductwork going to each room, which we can easily design into new buildings, but most existing UK homes were designed with a wet heating system (i.e. radiators but no ducts to each room). The PIV system works well for existing UK homes as we don't need to retrofit ducts into each room, rather we install one unit in a loft and just ensure we have sufficient undercuts under each door.
I try to cure the cause, rather than the symptoms, how about humidistat extractor fan, or a dehumidifier, or insulate the external walls, or what ever works., have you got trickle vents on your windows. good info on the video, thanks.
I do a lot in this house to tackle the cause as discussed here ruclips.net/video/TIDb-pdOnXM/видео.html The problem here is that the bench prevents air flow in a very small room, so short of insulating the wall - as I'm gradually doing elsewhere but not practical here, it installing a vent in the wall, this is the most pragmatic option.
Chemically treating wood to kill mould is a perfectly good solution BUT i think your mould/damp issue may be from the groundwater seeping through the walls or floor in the basement and making it wet from within the wall. You should definitely take a moisture meter and check every interior wall, floor and baseboard. It should really be less than 20%. In my house without any damp issue the outer and coldest innside walls are under 9% and innside walls is from 9 to 0% moisture. Really wet wood is usually over 30% (disclaimer: my opinion, not facts) And if it is wet behind the paint you probably have a big hidden issue waiting to show it's dark side. Please check and reply to me here 🙂
What you say makes a lot of sense, except I don't think it is in my case otherwise the skirting would be rotten by now. The coir matting is problematic though as it has a rubber base so the floor can't breathe. About ten years ago I installed a pea single soakaway around the perimeter of the house which has helped to keep moisture permeating up from below to a minimum.
Interesting that housing used to have air bricks in the top corner of a room, with an adjustable fine mesh grill inside, to encourage circulation...hmmm. progress eh
I used a Zinnser product on an external wall last year. The wall was in terrible shape but a year on from painting it all and it's been 100% perfect so far.
Started following your channel recently as they are very informative thank you for that. I have a question as many homes suffer with damp on the ceiling in our bathroom through the winter. I’m thinking about getting the B.I.N mould killer proof primer but do I have to also get the perma white paint as well or can I use ordinary deluxe white emulsion over the top of it instead. We have a similar issue in the bedroom next to the bathroom but the mould only ever forms along the ceiling above the window.
Are the shelving units and framing in your utility area raised off the ground, with ventilation passing underneath as well as behind? That should help reduce mould.
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Do you think I could use this on the back of built in wardrobe's?
I was born in 1947 we lived in a council house with a coal fire. We never had any damp or mould problems. We had an oven in the kitchen linked to the coal fire. My mother often dried clothes on a clothes horse put in front of the oven, and still no damp problems. We didn't have radiators all we had was a back boiler behind the fire to heat the water. Coal fires allowed the house to breathe. Later on, the council fitted a gas boiler and radiators. That's when the problems started, we started getting damp problems, the windows were always damp on the inside. Many years later I had a Housing Association bungalow, due to my health problems. The Housing Association in their great wisdom decided to insulate the loft to the current standard. A damp-proofing firm filled the cavity walls with insulation( pumped in). That was when the bungalow started getting damp problems. Mould started to appear on every wall. It became a constant battle to keep the walls mould-free. The windows were always streaming with water. My wife and I are in our late seventies and in very poor health, I try to keep windows open as much as possible, all the time in summer. We are causing more problems by having our homes over-insulated. The house needs to breathe. Cavity walls were designed to do just that. There is no great mystery as to why people have damp problems. Many people can not afford to heat their homes as due to an incompetent government fuel prices have gone through the roof. People on minimum wages and pensioners on a single basic pension, like myself are struggling to live. In this country, the rich get rich and the poor are forgotten about. The basic pension starts at £130, you don't get far on that. I would like to see if the Prime Minister or our overpaid MPs could survive on what I have to live on. THERE IS NO WAY THEY COULD.
As per my comment yesterday. Thanks 👍
Sounds like a nightmare
@@nyaruko-do2ok The nightmare begins when we start over-insulating our properties and condensation is trapped within the rooms of your home.
over insulating but not ventilating. Insulation is good. No airflow is bad. Stick in vents and fan and ur good to go
In a short while there will be no one left to remember the intense long lasting heat of a coal fire…never any mould in my grandparents house like you say, wishing ironing all sorts going on. Everyone had better get used to being cold in the future, all very well until you get older.
If mould formed once, it will want to form again, either left over spores or new ones. With regular maintenance though it's easy to keep on top of. I think a problem is a lot of people seem to expect an area to require no cleaning or anything for years at a time which is rather silly. Regular light maintenance will keep areas clean and mould free. Get back into the old fashioned spring clean routine (though spring is bad time as the weather is still damp, I do it in the summer when things dry better).
Or sort the damp problem 1st
@@leeholke9851 That's fine if it's a damp problem and you can fix it. We don't have any damp problems at all, but we do have condensation issues.
@@caskwith condensation is still damp. It was a wide range of answers .
@@leeholke9851 Ok, well if you can stop the condensation great, but that isn't always possible/practicable.
97⁷
Charlie I used to do 100s of mould treat jobs in my last job. What you have done here is perfect and new mould will always form on the surface due to your poor ventilation and damp shoes ect. If it was coming from the wall it would push through damaging the plaster and showing rot on the skirting. Good video thanks
Thanks Peter, coming from a pro like yourself I really appreciate that endorsement. Good point about the damaged plaster and rotting skirting. I should have mentioned that👊
Yup - I have rising damp in an INTERNAL brick wall. I chiselled off the plaster to about a foot high and let the bricks be bare for several months. The wooden skirting board was rotten on the back side. The floors either side of the wall had been concreted, so I was only able to install DryRods at the level of the TOP of the lowest row of bricks. Months later I replastered the wall down to about 6" above the floor, so about 1 1/2 rows of bricks were still bare, above the DryRods line. Left that for some more months, and then covered the new plaster with Zinsser's Shellac-based sealer paint (the wall was to be re-wallpapered), and fitted plastic skirting boards WITH some ventilation areas so that the damp rising into the very lowest row of bricks could still escape -SLOWLY- into the room. Everything was great for some months, but then eventually the SALTS in the wall burst through the shellac paint! The bricks HAD been treated with salts neutraliser on the other side (in an understairs cupboard). Still not rewallpapered yet - looking for the next thing to try (!)
@@hunchanchoc8418 Tough one ? Maybe (if I read well exactly ‘What’ you did ?) The other side of wall application against salts just forced them to cross the wall to the other side ? Water vapour and therefore salts, has to find a way out ...somewhere ? I am only learning it must be said...it’s a subtle learning curve...Damp that is ...(NOT rising damp !)
@@gortagnan You're probably right. It's disheartening. I'm thinking the only likely 'solution' will be taking the plaster off yet again and installing dimple sheet, and plasterboard over. :-/
Excellent video Charlie. You have gone to great lengths to explain what you are doing, the materials you have used (along with chatting to the suppliers), the way you have carried out the work and the honest results. This vid is a classic example. You really can't have done more. I'm a handyman and have found your videos soooo helpful. Please do keep posting.
Iv been a decorator for 27 years iv been treating mould a lot over the past few months and the way you’ve just shown is the correct way. 👍 ventilation is the key, people never got mould back in the day before upvc windows. But still trickle vents could be opened but they never are when I call to treat mould
I had a black mold problem after a flood, I treated several times with white vinegar sprayed on and painted over with normal emulsion paint, still ok two years on.
Thanks for the update Charlie. We moved into a 1969 bungalow a year last Oct which had big condensation issues. We watched your comprehensive video on mould and dehumidifiers.
Bought the EBAC worked fantastically well. The hygrometer gave us all the relevant readings.
The air bricks had no through flow it had been built with no means of air circulating inside, so
It was damp and cold.
New double glazing was fitted this July after which cavity wall insulation was added.That meant having a PIV fitted.It has transformed the bungalow in so many ways.Will be renew the loft insulation next year. Your time and effort over the years would have transformed many projects and always look forward to your finding. I have also passed the info on to others who have also benefited especially those in social housing who now can show evidence to the landlord. I now have a EBAC that i will pass on to a family member as it is not required.Once again many thanks for your time and effort.
Richard great to hear from you. It's so heartening hearing feedback like this. I had a similar air brick issue in my old London house. The mortgage company made certain damp work a requirement of the loan and a few years later I found the company who installed them hadn't bothered to knock them all the way though to the underfloor cavity. You've done everything right there, right down to installing a PIV. So glad to hear it's sorted out all the problems. Must be very satisfying now, living in your wonderfully dry, warm home. You just want to have the odd trickle vent open on the windows now you've got them double glazed, to help the PIV do it's work. 👍
I used to develop antifouling paint for the marine industry. I reckon you are probably right. For the biocide to work it needs to get into the beasties. Could be that the very top layer of paint has depleted it's biocide. So it's efficiency is dropping a bit. Revisit it next year. Suspect it would be a touch worse. In marine the sea water brings the biocide to the surface. Not sure the biocide deeper down this coating will be able to come to the surface to work? Unless the damp does it (which is plausible). Nothing another coat of paint wouldn't fix I reckon.
Thanks for the honest revisit!
Lots of DIY videos out there but it is easy to temporarily fix an issue. How a method fairs in the long term is important info we dont often get.
Also, your caulking videos have me producing much better results. Indistinguishable (or better) than jobs I have paid professionals to do.
Thanks so much Matt. It's a long slog doing these vids but comments like this make them worthwhile 🙏👊
I had a constant war with a small patch of wall adjacent to a chimney breast in a previous home, but finally nailed it by freeing up air space and stripping the wall back and treating it before leaving. Glad you sorted it. I just used Damp Seal, by the way. Difficult to apply, but works well.
Thanks Nigel. Yes, great work, and thanks for the tip. Freeing up the air space was the crucial point. 👍
Excellent news behind the bench! I used your solution and products (as per previous bench video) on a couple of areas that have caused annual hassle and now, so far, not a spot of anything! I will update again in about April next year to see how these areas have fared over the winter months. Thanks again - brilliant thinking, balanced advice, demos and results!
Peter, so glad to hear it's working well on yours. Thanks for the comment 👍
Great video mate and thank you for the mention.
But for anyone else reading this I would strongly suggest heading over to the buy me a coffee section and discord as it really is a fantastic group of people constantly helping each other out and the advice that some of the guys give is worth it's weight in gold!
Cheers Paul 👊
I picked up some Mould Wash Concentrate and Anti Mould Paint Additive direct from Permaguard. Cost about £28 inc delivery for both. The great thing about the paint addictive is that you can add it to which ever paint colour you wish and are not restricted to the availability of which ever brand is in the local store. The mould wash works a treat for any surface. I applied both in April and have not even seen an attempted regrowth!
That's great work. Didn't realise you could do that 👌👏
I would ventilate the access panel behind the tumble dryer. Thanks for the revisit of the problem area
Phew. So glad as I literally did your treatment to my wall two weeks ago. Glad it was not a waste of time and money.
Glad to hear it Matt. I'm sorry, that title was a bit click baitey 😬 👍
Same problem Charlie. Used 70% vinegar to kill the mould. Sprayed it, let it dry. Repeated it a few times. Then used Zinnzar paint. Let it dry. Left it dry. & few months later painted the wall with emulsion paint. Looks great after 7 months. No mould issues
Great work 👍
I’ve treated dry rot in my career and have always got to the source of the problem. Having seen terrible damage caused by water, dampness lack of air and indeed light has made me quite cautions of how to treat any signs of dampness anywhere. My tuppence worth would be to treat for the potential of a given situation. Yes, it may mean more work and expense but peace of mind having done the work to eliminate nasty surprises later sometimes years later.
I would ensure the substrate: the plaster and possibly the brick/ stone behind is sprayed with a fungicide and allowed to dry. Irrigation by injection of some fungicide into to the wall. (ensure the outside soil is at least 150 mm below the DPC if on the ground floor, that assumes there is a DPC!). Then I’d apply your recommended paints. The possibility of damp contributing by ingress through the wall from outside must be checked out and dealt with. As this appears to be simply condensation from warmer air meeting a cold wall and unventilated sufficiently on this wall is good to go.
Great video, totally agree with PIV units, I've had mine for 1 year and has made massive difference on condensation forming and subsequent mould growth ( I don't have any regrowth)
Fitted a PIVin our 40 year old bungalow , absolutely transformed our house. Had mould/condensation forming on walls and windows. Virtually eliminated now. Absolutely brilliant system.
I've invested in a piv as I have bad condensation also... just can't find anyone to fit the thing lol
@@Willyfarns It’s pretty easy tbh. Just cut a hole in the ceiling and get a 5amp electricity supply put in the loft space.
@@cerec69 does it make the vent area cold?
@@fanfeck2844 Not at all. I opted for the Nuaire system with the heater option. It just hums a bit like air conditioning. It’s just a revelation in our house.
Im so glad you revisited this as ive been rewatching the original video as ive got mould behind my wardrobe, planning on using zinnser BIN
Thanks Jamie. Good luck with the treatment. Make sure you dry the wall fully and after applying the BIN I think a paint that's impervious to moisture and with biocide in like Perma White is important. 👍
Glad you revisited. I have issues in the narrow recesses either side of my chimney Brest. Partly caused by the property being empty a lot and therefore not enough general airflow and heating use. Will try the BIN option and hopefully it will mean it buggers off and stops stressing me out. 😂
Thank you for this video! I was wondering about that. Love your videos. They are really encouraging me to try making things by myself.
You're very welcome. I'm so chuffed my videos are encouraging you to make stuff 👍👏
Had exactly the same case as you..followed you're advice..sorted.Even removed backing boards in kitchen floor cupboards..mould gallore..treated and painted..not a trace after 10 months now.Thank you.
Brilliant work Simon. So glad to hear you achieved the same result 👌👏
After watching your original video I used the Zinsser on my office/gym walls, converting it from a disused bedroom that had very bad mould/condensation. After using the mould killer, the walls were left for a month with lots of summer air flowing through the room. I then used the water based Zinsser BIN and the Permawhite. I have to say I am very impressed with the Permawhite, just one coat was enough for me, my only complaint is the smell, it really does wiff! I've also fitted a humidistat extractor fan as there will be a lot of huffing and puffing due to exercise. So it will be interesting to see if any mould forms, but thanks for the information Charlie, your videos are extremely helpful.
Sounds like you did everything spot on there, Mark. I like the fact you used the summer weather to thoroughly dry out the wall before sealing it. BIN is shellac based - presumably that's what you meant? Yes the Perma White is fantastic. It's not surprising it's a bit wiffy given its solvent properties and the biocide, but an acceptable trade off IMO given its benefits. Great work 👍
Great video Charlie, good idea to return to this a year on. We live in a listed building with a semi basement that suffered from damp and mould.
We’ve had great success with Wickes Mould Protect emulsion paint which I think is similar to those discussed in your video.
for me Charlie you cannot argue with the zinsser bin and the result speak them self happy days.
I agree. My go to primer! Good to hear from you 👊
Hi Charley , I have used the insulated plasterboard and I think it would be perfect for your location . You could put it straight onto the wall ,making a thermal break which would prevent a cold surface to course a problem Best wishes and kind regards 😀👍👍👍
My thoughts too.
Yes absolutely and in fact I've done 3 bedrooms upstairs with this. With the wall now warm, the dew point can't be reached and so mould doesn't form. With insulated plasterboard you just have to be careful about potential cold bridging in corners, plug sockets and around the windows. I'm still learning the perfect technique, but got it pretty good in our bedroom where I battened the wall, infilled with 1 inch celotex PIR board, foil taped over the battens and then screwed insulated plasterboard on top. That way there was no cold bridging where you have to cut through the plasterboard for electrical sockets.
I really appreciate your videos and help, we have a persistent damp/mould problem from a 1930s house with solid walls upstairs. I’ve gone Zinsser mould killer then BIN where needed after your other vid. The emulsion throughout needed a different approach. Brewers sold me an additive - Owatrol VC175 -so you can keep a paint colour but add a fungicide. Fingers crosses that works … I think it was about £20 that would treat 10L paint.
I used BIN and Permawhite Satin on my bathroom ceiling, great job! No more mould patches!
Glad to hear it Andrew. Good work 👍
As some of the others, if moisture is within your walls, sealing it with paint can cause long term problems. I had this is our property, paint worked but long term it came back. Solution was for our stone wall (no cavity) was to remove the plaster, tank it with a slurry then plater over - long term, its never returned. Its important to identify the exact source of the problem. Have you ever measured what's going on it your walls? I also have a PIV installed, made little difference, main solution as you was to run a dehumidifier.
The walls are fine in my case which is one of the reasons the mould didn't come back. Previously painted in a cheap contract matt with insufficient ventilation, a combination of slightly better air circulation and this Zinsser perma White paint has sorted the problem.
I always look forward to your videos, they're well produced and informative.
Thanks so much Ian, for that and generally for your support of the channel. Couldn't do it without you guys 👊🙏
I work for Nuaire, the Drimaster is good for damp.
Thanks for that 👍
Clear, well edited and balanced video. Excellent. All the best with the next one.
Thanks Dean, really appreciate that 👍
In my experience dehumidifier is go to option. It was a dear one, couple of hundred but never thought of mould again. I live in a flat, though. So not many external walls and one is enough just have to wheel it around from room to room.
Yes, in that video I mentioned, the main thrust of the video was about dehumidifiers. Great to vastly reduce relative humidity around the home but they won't stop condensation forming on windows and the like. Crucial though, particularly in an apartment like yours when perhaps you're producing a lot of moisture from hanging up washing, cooking and bathing, without there being anywhere for it to escape.
Zinzer is brilliant paint, I put Silver Shield Antimicrobial Paint Additive in my paint, No recuring mould since over 2 years, not even on the surface. Silver Shield is made with Silver Ion which when in contact with bacteria or mould spores they just die out before they get the opportunity to keep doubling up.
I had quite bad black mould in the disabled wet room. After a look through the internet I used a 3% solution of Hydrogen Peroxide in a spray bottle, left for 10 minutes, gave it a scrub wiped down,. when dry I painted it with the Powerfix anti mould and mildew paint from Lidl, it's latex based so water resistant too. The mould hasn't come back after 2 years. Why did I use that method? Because it's inexpensive compared to those specialist paints by big names and most important, it works.
Great work. Glad to hear it's sorted the problem. 👍
Good video with great result. Personally I'd vent the wall as its an outside wall. However each to there own. If something else works then brilliant 👍👍.
That's a very good idea. The long term plan is to do something different with this room otherwise I'd almost certainly do that 👍
Thank you for all your videos. We have just returned to the UK after more than 3 decades in Canada. Your videos provide an amazing resource for our situation. So much as moved on since we were living here before. I noticed in my mother’s 1900 ish terraced house that mould would form where furniture was pushed up against outside walls. So I wonder if one approach would be to design such furniture with some kind of ventilation built in. Perhaps in the case of your bench: holes in the boards at the back? Keep up the good work!
A good idea to have a review of something like this as it is useful to see if something worked. A long term review of some of the other projects like the recent gutter and downpipe paint, built-in wardrobes would be good to see too.
Though the Zinsser BIN seems expensive it does seem to cover well and the tin last for a long time. The mould on that wall would appear to be on the surface rather than a wall that had a damp issue. We had a similar issue with our ceiling in one room, thoroughly cleaned it and checked it wasn't caused by anything else apart from condensation at a cold spot. Used the BIN and then just used a normal ceiling emulsion over that. It has not returned so was effective. That one tin of BIN has been used on loads of projects on MDF and some other problem areas so doesn't seem as expensive as I initially thought.
Our house is 30+ years old and the original wooden framed windows were great for ventilation as the quality of them was awful. Replacing them meant the ventilation got worse and mould was more apparent. Apart from ourselves, main source of moisture is the kettle and cooking which is hard to avoid. At this time of year also washing drying indoors. Improving the ventilation would help but the dehumidifier has been a significant factor in fighting moisture. It is a case of spotting problem areas, treating them and then monitoring the area.
Hi Glen, thanks for this. Yes you getting a dehumidifier was a great investment. Having a few hygrometers around the house is also very useful. If the RH goes much advice 60% you know you need to seeing into action in the room in question. I try and leave a few windows on the half latch during the day but that's easy for me living in the countryside and working from home. I appreciate it's problematic for others to do this, although if you have trickle vents on the bare windows I'd say keep them all open 👍
A very interesting topic and I think you have dealt with it very well. A good anti mould treatment and anti mould paint seems to do the trick.
Thanks Tahir. Yes not ideal in terms of the lack of air circulation but by providing an impermeable surface protected with biocide, there's nothing for the mould to latch onto. 👍
Thing is if u remove what ever surface u still have it in the air. It Is a natural element in air. So if damp hasn't been sorted it will grow back. As I said a year ago. Wash with distilled water then paint with bin 123 and paint an anti mould paint. I've been doing iy foe years no call backs
Thanks Lee. Agreed. If you can't insulate the wall (to prevent the dew point being reached) or increase ventilation, this is the best option as at least you're preventing moisture sinking into the wall, and with the biocide, preventing mould taking hold.
I followed your advice and used the zinsser combination of BIN and perma white in my bathroom and it has come out brilliant! Great products. . Cheers!
Really glad to hear it Alex. Great work 👍
On the Zinsser product placement: a few carpenters and decorators I know recommend Zinsser products for pretty much every specialist situation every time. There are undoubtedly alternatives, but they're all going to be more expensive than regular paint anyway - so why bother potentially saving a few quid to gamble on whether they will work, when you know Zinsser will?
I'd add that my natural inclination is to aways go for a "good enough" cheaper option where possible.
Yes people occasionally say my videos are stuffed with product placement but they have to be as you need all the tools or paint to do the job. My responsibility is to only place stuff I believe passionately in as being one of the best options for the job. I too know a lot of decorators who swear by Zinsser so that's one of the reasons I recommend the stuff so much. Its performance speaks for itself though 👍
Super-thorough. Super-helpful. Thank you so much!
You're very welcome Fran. Thanks for the comment. 🙏
Charlie the area of wall you exposed when you removed the access panel looked a bit mouldy to me, a decent sized vent fixed into that panel should help air flow. It would be good to get a scientific point of view on mould removal/eradication, a painters opinion or somebody who had previously worked in the industry, well you know, who knows what to believe.The Mould removal industry is purportedly worth $200 Billion dollars, surely there is somebody with a white coat and suitable qualifications who has scientific evidence of how to kill and prevent mould from reoccurring based on sound evidence? Love your channel...
As others say don’t apologise for a long video especially when it is well presented and informative. New subscriber. Now to figure out the cost benefit analysis. ps My mum and I were given advice 40 years ago when I had lots of chest infections, the gp said lots of central heated houses are too dry and recommended a bowl of water in the room to humidify the living room. Long before Amazon and those gadgets. Another mystery. Thanks
Thanks, and I really appreciate the sub. Hope you sorted out those chest problems. 👊
I use perma white satin on most of my interior woodwork. On flat doors and window boards it rolls out beautifully without the need for tipping off. Dries as flat as oil and a finish as good as spraying. The only negative is the brushes clog up fairly quickly and in temperatures above 20° it dries too fast, turning my brushes into a solid!
Good to hear it Andy, thanks for that. Yes I find that with Zinsser BIN too. It's my go to primer but you can't use it in the heat of the summer because it dries before you can get it off the brush.
@@CharlieDIYte BIN is fabulous stuff and is better rolled with a 4" emulsion roller X 2 coats. You don't get dragging by rolling. When I do have to brush it then I work it in small amounts quickly! Coverstain dries beautiful and flat with an enamel like finish.
A nice good follow-up review , Great video Thanks Charlie
Thanks for the comment Malcolm. You're very welcome 👍
Great video Charlie
I remember your first video removing the mould.if treated right mate it shouldn’t come back Just as long as you’ve got good ventilation simples 👍👍👍👍
Agreed Carl. Thanks for the comment and for watching my vids. 👊
People saying you can't treat mold like that are mistaking mold and fungus. Mold forms on the surface of the wall. Fungus infects the whole wall. They look quite similar but you can remove mold by scratching the paint and the fungus might still be visible even deep under the paint. Although it is also possible to remove fungus by scratching if you find it before it infects the deeper parts.
I have a mold problem in my rental place too but I am not allowed to paint the walls (the owner is weird) so I beat up the mold by understanding what mold needs to form and grow.
Basically an unusually cold surface that allows the humidity in and doesn't have much airflow.
So I mold proofed the areas where mold was creating by first scratching the wall, then using a mold killing spray and drying the place off and then by neatly putting some waterproof pee-and-stick foil on the wall. The humidity doesn't sink into the wall so the mold has no way to make roots in the wall and the mold that was in the wall (assuming it survived the spray) has no humidity to grow.
I am checking the wall every now and then but so far there seems to be no problem.
I am only afraid of the fungus that is also in the walls, which is forming tiny black spots under the foil in some places (not all places where the mold was, just some, where the wall was in a particularly bad shape and i failed to scratch deep enough). But it isn't my problem. The fungus was in the walls way before I moved in (it was covered by fresh paint when I moved in and grew through it after a few months) and is caused by bad isolation of the outside wall. But it can't get through the foil and it's spread is limited to one or two tiny spots that don't seem to be growing much for now.
The paint you are using seems to be a waterproof one, just like my foil.
Unless there is a crack the mold won't get through. There might be some fungus slowly growing in the wall under it though.
I wish I could paint my rental place with some waterproof paint too. The one I have now seems almost like a blackboard chalk, comes off with every wipe and clearly changes color with just a little bit of water. Which is also why I am not afraid of using the peel and stick foil on it - it will not damage the wall, it will safe it from any dirt and splash instead.
I'd never use acrylic paint in a bathroom again. Solvent based paints are much much more mould resistant. I repainted the roof of our ensuite with a semi-gloss enamel but left the walls as-is. Any mould buildup now has a distinct variation between wall and ceiling. It only needs a light wipe with mould spray cleaner to clean it off every few months.
Great work. I agree, even an acrylic eggshell isn't a patch on something like Perma White. Regular cleaning as you say, and you don't have a problem. Try and keep the bathroom window open as long as possible after showers and baths, to get that vapour out of the window rather than circulating around your house.
Hi Charlie - another great video thanks for posting. I missed the earlier one but have a patch of mold to treat at my house and my daughters so will be copying your approach. I think you should give Toolstation a heads-up before you post similar videos in future though as they appear to have sold out of Perma White! I got the last one in Ormskirk and nationally they have sold 18 in 24 hours - no coincedence I think !
Thanks Julian. Yes, and it would make what I'm doing so much more sustainable if I could occasionally benefit more from sales generated from my vids but there's very little inclination from the retailers on this. Particularly the larger ones at any rate. Another great product is the Zinsser Ceiling 5 in 1. Primes, seals and has the biocide - all in 1. From memory though I don't think it can be tinted, which the Perma White can. 👍
Many thanks, it's a job I have to do soon, so all the info is priceless.
You're welcome Patrick. Thanks for the comment.
I painted the wall where I had the mould with an oil-based paint and every spring I just wipe the wall.
I have no more problems with the mould.
Good work 👍
Another great video Charlie, never heard of PIV! 👍
Thanks Brian 👍
Why not do the same treaent behind that access panel?
Let me tell you my story cause I have dealt with this many times.
I have garage boxes and they have no heating or light or whatsoever and are not attached to a house only in a group to each other.
Had a mould problem on the ceiling years ago. I cleaned it wit a brush and high concentrated water/chlorine solution, turning my old jogging suite from black to yellow and since I am bald, no damage to the hair hehehe.
After some days of drying I painted it with a local Dutch brand of concealer and paint from Alabastine.
Since there were some holes above the door for ventilation I also made two in the back wall to generate some draft.
Now I rent them out and 2 years ago, I changed renters and did a check up, all was still great, after 10 or more years, very happy about the product.
Buts as you mentioned, FIRST GET RID OF THE MOULD IN A GOOD WAY, then paint !
Well while all these paints do work As you said yourself it had started to come back even slightly. It is harder for mound to reform on these paints because of their ingredients within. But while the paint is doing what it supposed to do. The initial cause remains. Yes by all means use such anti mould paints and products. But the initial cause the lack of ventilation if that is not tackled. Then mould will return as your video has shown even if it was ever so slight in a spore shaped pattern. By the way the mould behind the panel it will spread. It will get behind the timber frame. Your dryer is vented to the outside. But remember the dryer ducting to the outside creates heat in the air around it. as does the dryer when it is on and the washing machine The heated air from that can cause condensation on cold water pipes and cold walls and this creates the ideal conditions for mould So I would be putting an air vent in that outside wall and get an air flow going
Thanks this helped the house has it everywhere we stripped concrete wall downstairs and repainted it looks good been about a year now but I see what ya mean it needs another coat and I'm going to put heat lamp and ultraviolet bulb to see what happens they say ultraviolet will do something . Zinseer paint is good product I had to save my money but it's worth it
Charlie, have you considered installing a bar greenhouse heater on a thermostat? I'm considering this option in my coat cupboard to make sure wet coats and shoes are dried.
Re: PIV, I installed one in a client's house about 12 months ago, the only complaint they had was the constantly circulating fan which they said cooled the landing more than they expected. It does make a difference to condensation!!
Thanks again for the updated video.
i have had my PIV over a year now and yes it does make the landing cold but at the same time it stops the condensation
Not a bad idea Nathan. You just have to remember the moisture is still going into the air, so bare that in mind as part of an all round house strategy. It's so worth getting a hygrometer or 3 just to keep an eye on humidity around the house. Should have mentioned it in this vid although I went into a lot of detail on it in my main condensation video ruclips.net/video/TIDb-pdOnXM/видео.html 👍
Thanks Nick. Does yours have a heater on it? I know the heaters don't really do a great deal other than tempering the cold air coming in.
Have had a PIV for 3 years now, absolutely amazing. I've said goodbye to damp wallpaper, mouldy curtains and clothing and steamed up windows. No need to ever open windows. A bit colder on the landing but getting rid of damp makes it worthwhile. I bought the DriMaster-ECO PIV with a heater but only used the heater once as it's pretty useless and expensive to run, so would not recommend that, using it unheated costs the same as leaving a low watt bulb on 24/7 and I haven't noticed much difference on my electric bills.
@@mp3bbb Absolute ditto here as well 👍
Drill some ventilation holes in the back wall of the bench. Same with the appliance cabinet on the lower bottom.
It looks like the system has worked to a level because it seems that the mould has became a dormant state where it’s appeared again but to a state where it cannot grow or do anything basically it’s asleep or dead ish
I think it's basically created an impervious layer which the moisture in the air can't get a hold onto, and the biocide p prevents the mould forming. Air circulation would be ideal but in the absence of this, this is the next best thing.
Thank you for this I'm going to check mine now 👍👍
Hope it was ok 🤞
Had a serious mould problem on a boat, try many products, ended up with white vinegar with bicarb of soda being most successful.
Ah that's good to know. Thanks for sharing 👍
I can second that white vinegar. Living in a old Irish farmhouse I regularly do a "mold patrol" with my spray bottle of white vinegar with added tea tree oil for extra mold killing power.
I find that TSP (trisodium phosphate) is a good treatment for removing surface mould, followed up with the paints you suggested. The real battle is fixing the root cause of the condensation though (as noted in the video).
Exactly. We have a far from ideal situation given the lack of ventilation but I used a dehumidifier to dry out the wall before I treated it, and at least this paint solution has comprehensively prevented any moisture getting back into the wall. I think the result is pretty satisfactory given the circumstances. 👍
@@CharlieDIYte What plaster does it have? How did you dry the wall? Have you not now trapped any moisture which is cold attracting high enviroment moisture levels creating condensation to find your cold non ventalated area?
Charlie, have you tried Kontrol crystals & trap. I was sceptical but bought 3 bags and a trap for under my stairs. No smell and mold has appeared since. I was really impressed and the 3 bags have lasted about 2 years.
Hi. That's interesting. No I haven't tried those. I'll check them out - thanks. The reviews seem pretty good?
I moved in to our house in 2013. When remodelling the upstairs we removed two built in cupboards and found tons of mould behind them (on walls and ceiling). My mate recommended Zinsser products (B-I-N) and something else from their brand. 9 years on there is no mould to speak of in those areas.
Really glad to hear that. I suspect you're managing moisture better than the previous owners too as discussed here ruclips.net/video/NbtijHKy2Vo/видео.html
@@CharlieDIYte Just watched that video, really informative. We do have old windows and they get really wet overnight (but only in the bedrooms). They are also not installed very well so mould does creep up around the windows (need to wipe it every 4-6 weeks and usually treat with bleach once a year). We are replacing all windows and front door in January so I wonder how those will fare against condensation. Personally I'm against trickle vents because they ruin the window frame, happy to just leave them slightly open if I need to. I also want to insulate the suspended floor - all of which will add to air tightness and probably more moisture in the air so I'll probably use some of your hints 😉
Could it be that dust is on the wall forming a coating which is not in contact with the paint and this is what the mould is growing on? I believe that a large part of household dust is human skin flakes which mould can grow on.
Very possibly. I was disappointed that Zinsser weren't really interested, when I called them for their thoughts. Thanks for that 👍
Thanks for the update! 👍🏼
Hi Charlie, thanks for these 2 videos, really useful for our window reveals!. Our kitchen cabinets are installed on external walls (no choice unfortunately) and consequently get cold. Walls are old stone with rubble cavity infill. Before the days of youtube I injected a DPC to reduce/eliminate rising damp which helped a lot, and now wish I'd installed insulated plasterboard 😂 During windiest of winter there's a dreaded draft through the kick plate, fine gaps between the carcasses and pipe holes inside the sink cupboard. Good to have airflow but something tells me it's too much and possibly overworking our dehumidifier 😂I think it's blowing down the eaves and out through loose internal render. Tempted to fit loft insulation beneath the cupboards to reduce draft at the kickplate, which should be okay, but wondered what you think about spraying open cell foam between the wall and back of the carcass to fill the service void? Drilling 10mm holes 150mm apart, would allow me to poke the gun through and spray sections working from bottom to top, so it doesn't fall down, the lowest level would rest on the loft insulation. Apparently open cell foam is more breathable but doesn't transfer moisture. Does this sound a good idea to you? 😉
Another option is blowing in EPS beads behind them, using my leaf blower 😀there are some alcoves hidden behind plasterboard either end that might be letting a draft in. This could be a good option behind fitted wardrobes on cold walls - provided the beads can't escape. I'm hoping it will allow some airflow but also keep the walls warm.
Swap the thumbledryer with a more efficient one (heath pump type) .. it will be basically free after 1 year of usage due to energy saving.
Thanks mate. I'll look into that. You just have to empty the water regularly 👊
@@CharlieDIYte if it's next to the washing machine there's a good chance you can plumb the tumble dryer into the drain so never have to empty the water container. That's what I did with mine. It's great.
Just wondering if the wall is solid or has a cavity , If its solid I would imagine it will need some sort of insulation to stop condensation forming on it ... Im no expert but it seems a logical step to take ...........
It's solid. Yes absolutely. If it was insulated mould wouldn't be a problem because the wall would be too warm for the dew point to be reached.
Thanks Charlie another great informative video 👍🏻
Great video in this world of sponsors, I love how you remain unbaised and even if u do get paid your open and honest. I have a question. I have a tiny amount of( 5cm ) on my ceiling. If u were to use zinser, would I have to paid the whole ceiling with the zinser white once the area is spot treated to ensure for a uniform colour wheel th the old ceiling white colour?
Thanks, I appreciate that. The problem with spot priming with the Zinsser BIN is you can get a bit of a raised area. However a bit of very gentle sanding of the edge to feather it in with day 240 grit sand paper, and I reckon it would hardly be noticeable. Zinsser do another great product Ceiling Pro 5 in 1 which removes the need to prime. In answer to your question, you would want to paint the whole ceiling as the sheen of the Perma White will be very different to your existing emulsion. Do consider why you've got the mould though, and where there's anything you can do to stop it returning, and check out my video on this if you haven't already ruclips.net/video/TIDb-pdOnXM/видео.html 👍
I think it depends how bad and why. I had a ceiling with mold and even with anti mold paint it would still come back, even after replacing the section with new anti mold paint.
Yes, you definitely need to get to the bottom of the problem, as discussed here ruclips.net/video/TIDb-pdOnXM/видео.html
Great vid as always. Thank you.
You're welcome Alan. Thanks for the comment 👍
Get an old spray bottle like "Detox" other bottles available, 50ml bleach to 500ml water mix (10:1), fill bottle, spray wall leave to dry.... Cheap as chips, now seal the wall... with a waterproof sealer (I assume you found the cause of the mould and removed). Keep your house ventilated, dry (45-55% humidity). Mould loves damp.
wrong! bleach only kills surface mould doesn't tackle it kill the roots like white distilled vinegar can! also you should never dilute anything you put on a wall for mould! common sense tells you that's putting more moisture back into the wall! your cheap as chips idea doesn't work and certainly won't last! charlie's method does however i'd tried so many solutions before i tried this and this is by far the best!
I used the Ronseal product three years ago in my mother's bathroom. The mould has returned in the worst areas and paint crazing is evident in other areas.
Sorry to hear that Martin. Ventilation is key. Can she open a window in there from time to time?
Ronseal Anti Condensation Paint seems to have solved my mould issue.
Ah, good to hear that Graham, thanks for letting me know. 👍
thanks for this update video,
You're very welcome. Thanks for the comment 👊
The bench has storage underneath but you can prob cut a hole in the bottom middle of the back panel to let air get in behind the bench. You could cut out a shelf that goes in the middle and rests on the two bases on either side, and cut out the back board underneath the shelf so you would get like a letterbox shape and you probably would then not even have those faint traces of mould coming back in 1 year.
It's a very good point. I should do that. 👊
You might trying building a bench that doesn’t have a closed back so it lets some air circulation around the bench!
Yes I agree. And/or air brick.
Now this is going to sound strange and the first time I saw it done I nearly fell over. Wait until night or the room is dark and place a small flashlight (Maglite Penlight for example) on the surface of the wall so as to generate "raking light" (flashlight is positioned parallel to the wall surface) - you hold the light at full arm extension so your viewing angle is more or less perpendicular to the surface - if the surface is relatively flat and mold is present you will see mold that you ordinarily do not see in full light - works particular well on varnished surfaces like doors and cabinets and wooden beams. I use this techniques all the time to see the extent of a problem. My trusty Maglite is one of the older models that is not LED - I have never actually tried this with a Led flashlight. Sometimes you need one person to hold the light and wiggle it a bit depending on the surface and another person to stand back to observe. It is common to find mold behind cabinets because the air does not circulate and a micro climate exists.
I should also say that you can also find missing features like former windows outlines and nail holes in drywall and plaster with the same technique. We could probably trace Charlie's exterior crack repair on his home (his repairs were very good)
Thanks Gregory. That's a great tip. I had a couple of those non LED Maglites. Don't know what happened to them. Loved taking the glass cover off and standing the torch on it to use like a candle. 👍
Although mould and damp isn't a major problem in our bungalow, we do have a few places where it keeps reappearing after treatment, so the information about PIV interests me to help eradicate the areas we do have. A quick search for the Vent-Axia unit appears to have provided a potential solution and I'll research a bit more to see if it ticks all the boxes for us. Thank you.
You're very welcome. You only have to scroll down the comments of my Condensation video to see the love for PIVs. If you have loft space to install one I'd seriously consider it, bit mate sure you get one with a heater as the chilliness underneath it is the main complaint (not that everyone has an issue with this).
@@CharlieDIYte I've given this matter some thought and will be ordering the version with the heater. Loft space isn't an issue for us, so the main things to decide will be where the diffuser will be situated and whether the delivery ducting will benefit from being insulated.
I'm working my way through your videos and finding all manner of helpful information. Thanks again.
The PIV system I’ve fitted has completely eradicated mould upstairs in our cottage
That's great to hear. It's extraordinary how effective they are, isn't it!
@@CharlieDIYte yes, we’re very impressed with it!
Very interesting video. You being a "belt and braces" kind of guy I thought you might have drilled a few holes in the back of the bench to generate some airflow. Seems like the problem is almost negligible now, so good solution and some handy information delivered.
Thanks mate. That's not a bad idea, except with the baskets and storage boxes, even with ventilation holes there still wouldn't be sufficient air passing through.
@@CharlieDIYte Thanks for this Charlie, really interesting to come back to an old topic and verify the approach was effective.
Assuming this is the only place in the house with any mould, and to add to the earlier comment here, could a small fan be installed into a hole in the bench at floor level (I'm thinking of those little USB fans). Even a trickle of fresh air could make a massive difference.
Alternatively I went back to your home heating video and your video where you were insulating your solid stone walls in a bedroom where you talked about dew points (a topic I never fully understood until you explained it). Could you add a layer of Rockwool behind some plasterboard (or go for insulated plasterboard again) to push the dew point outside the property on this cold wall? I don't know the numbers off the top of my head, but you mentioned you have moved the bench out by a few inches, and 5cm of Rockwool behind some 9mm plasterboard might solve the problem? Only downside with this more drastic approach is you would need to remove the existing plaster on the wall and undo your hard work in the original video!
Good to know, thanks
Same thing happened to me with this paint dark mould staining within the paint not on the surface? When you try to clean the stain remains
Good job. Love your channel.
Charlie - Many thanks for this update. I have just ordered Zinsser gear as per your affiliate link...
Please can you remind me of the paint/painting sundries online supplier you referred to in your "Fitted Wardrobe" epic....
Many thanks - Rupert.
Thanks Rupert. Was that the ebay one you were after? bit.ly/3cbv1Mq
@@CharlieDIYte Perfect - Many thanks. I am hoping to attend the P and D show at Coventry over the next couple of days and was wondering if they were exhibiting.......
all our married life we moved into new build, so (luckily) we had no such probs. In our retirement we moved into a 1950's well built house but immediately noticed some odd minor damp/condensation problems, nothing too bad just odd little corner patches here and there. Tried various remedies but the Ronseal and Zinnser products seem to work ok but not totally successful. A top end de-humidifier improved things big time but your advice about looking at the PIV systems seems to be a real answer. How much does an average install cost for a 3 bed house?
I cannot comment on cost of PIV's, but I will say that dry air is cheaper to heat than humid air.
I honestly couldn't say, David. You could contact Nuaire and ask if they have any approved installers. Also, if you Google "PIV installers UK" a lot of companies come up, with the ability to get an online quote.
Sorry but I agree with Andres comment. There is no way to keep that drywall dry if it is adhered to the concrete. It will continue to get wet and continue to decay beneath the paint. I'm a renovation carpenter in Canada. The state of home conditions in the UK is very worrying to me. The entire country is doing the same thing, just covering it up and hoping for the best.
We don't use those PIV units here, as you would only be pushing cold damp air in to your house and blowing hot dry air out of your house. . We use something called a Heat Recovery Ventilator (HRV). it essentially blows warm DRIED air in to your home and the air that is pushed out pre-heats and drys the incoming air. Its a single unit and rather inexpensive.
Thanks Justin. I hear what you say but I think it over simplifies the problem. So in this situation (which is a solid wall rather than drywall) I used a dehumidifier to comprehensively dry out the structure pre and post treatment and prior to painting, as you'd see from the video. If like here you can't sort the ventilation issue out the important thing is to prevent moisture getting into the wall and this paint system does just that. On the PIV situation, again it's a little more complicated than that. Heating a house doesn't make the air drier, although it can feel like that. What it does is increase the ability of the air to hold moisture. So when you turn the heating on if you have a hygrometer your RH levels on it may go down. This doesn't mean there's less moisture in the air, it means the capacity of the air for holding moisture has gone up. Conversely, on a cold day outside RH levels may be close to 100% That doesn't mean the air is saturated, it simply means the capacity of the air to hold moisture is very low so actually there isn't a lot of moisture in the air. This is why you often get chapped lips on cold days - because the air is so dry it's drying out your lips. So going back to the PIV situation it's fine to funnel cold outside air into the house because the moisture content is much lower than the air it's replacing, but the main benefits of these systems is that they get all the air in the house circulating, preventing any air from lingering long enough for RH levels to rise to the point that the dew point is reached and the air dumps it's moisture onto whatever cold surface it's next to. Whether this is efficient for keeping heating bills down is another question, which is why HRVs are a good idea, as you say, but they don't pummel the air around like PIVs do. In this video in I'm focusing on systems that you can easily retrofit to solve damp mould and condensation issues.
I think it's also worth bearing in mind that we do install heat recovery ventilation units in the UK but mainly in new builds. This is because an HRV system needs ductwork going to each room, which we can easily design into new buildings, but most existing UK homes were designed with a wet heating system (i.e. radiators but no ducts to each room). The PIV system works well for existing UK homes as we don't need to retrofit ducts into each room, rather we install one unit in a loft and just ensure we have sufficient undercuts under each door.
thank you this was very helpful!
You're welcome Jackie. Thanks for the comment.
I try to cure the cause, rather than the symptoms, how about humidistat extractor fan, or a dehumidifier, or insulate the external walls, or what ever works., have you got trickle vents on your windows.
good info on the video, thanks.
I do a lot in this house to tackle the cause as discussed here ruclips.net/video/TIDb-pdOnXM/видео.html The problem here is that the bench prevents air flow in a very small room, so short of insulating the wall - as I'm gradually doing elsewhere but not practical here, it installing a vent in the wall, this is the most pragmatic option.
Chemically treating wood to kill mould is a perfectly good solution BUT i think your mould/damp issue may be from the groundwater seeping through the walls or floor in the basement and making it wet from within the wall.
You should definitely take a moisture meter and check every interior wall, floor and baseboard.
It should really be less than 20%.
In my house without any damp issue the outer and coldest innside walls are under 9% and innside walls is from 9 to 0% moisture.
Really wet wood is usually over 30% (disclaimer: my opinion, not facts)
And if it is wet behind the paint you probably have a big hidden issue waiting to show it's dark side.
Please check and reply to me here 🙂
What you say makes a lot of sense, except I don't think it is in my case otherwise the skirting would be rotten by now. The coir matting is problematic though as it has a rubber base so the floor can't breathe. About ten years ago I installed a pea single soakaway around the perimeter of the house which has helped to keep moisture permeating up from below to a minimum.
AWESOME! Thanks!
Interesting that housing used to have air bricks in the top corner of a room, with an adjustable fine mesh grill inside, to encourage circulation...hmmm. progress eh
Yep, they're pretty useful for situations like this. 👍
I used a Zinnser product on an external wall last year. The wall was in terrible shape but a year on from painting it all and it's been 100% perfect so far.
It's good stuff. For external walls the best I've used so far is Emperor. ruclips.net/video/zw_8YVFKY1M/видео.html It's very very good!
Started following your channel recently as they are very informative thank you for that. I have a question as many homes suffer with damp on the ceiling in our bathroom through the winter. I’m thinking about getting the B.I.N mould killer proof primer but do I have to also get the perma white paint as well or can I use ordinary deluxe white emulsion over the top of it instead. We have a similar issue in the bedroom next to the bathroom but the mould only ever forms along the ceiling above the window.
Are the shelving units and framing in your utility area raised off the ground, with ventilation passing underneath as well as behind? That should help reduce mould.
They're not but I agree that would be a good idea - or perhaps an air brick in the cupboard. All demolished now as part of the kitchen refurb..