Just wanted to say thanks, completed my first mountain bike wheel today and saved a ton doing it myself and using my old hub and spokes again. the hardest part was the trueing and tensioning!
This video gives me confidence on building or should I say making my very first wheel from scratch. Thanks mate for explaining the easiest way of properly making a bicycle wheel.
Thank you much, Sir. You show some excellent ideas. Fabricating better than reasonaly priced tools (& parts) instead of spending far more than justifiable has long been used by family. Please continue the fun.
One more thing, I have looked at other wheel / lacing vids and do they waffle on? You are clear, well spoken, concise and straight to the point. Just saying.
Great video, if there is an easy way to explain, this is it. I had no idea how to build a wheel, and it really is not that difficult, just hard work. Maybe after the video about the true weel, or with him, could you explain how to fix a broken spoke. I imagine it's just a replacement for a new spoke, but I've seen people fixing the wheel on the side of the road because they had a spare spoke, what kind of tool it would take, just to get home on the bike. I think this could give an interesting video too! And about the Bianchi, beautiful bike! A review of a bike like this would be cool! Congratulations Steven, the channel is always getting better!
Thanks mate, this video really helped me out, I'd swapped rims before by using cable ties to hold the spokes together where they overlap to keep the spoke pattern intact while I swapped the rim, but I didn't know how to lace a wheel up from scratch, thank you for the straightforward and thorough explanation and showing of how to do it, top work 👍🏻👍🏻
"Relax".., dude i saw the price on a pair of new cxp 14 mavic's and my jaw droppet!. (just the rims) But i want this o'l gal back on the road with the original rims so it's worth the money (100 Euros), but realizing that i had to build them from scratch was definitely a bit intimidating.
Ok - I got some biscuits 😂 and finally tried it - I’m proud to say I’ve just completed my first wheel !! I replaced a rusty old 3 speed sturmey archer 3 speed hub with a nice shiny new one !! Thanks for the clear and easy to follow instructions . I’ve been wanting to do this for ages but haven’t been game and now it’s done . Thank you 👍
hey just wanted to say thank you! i laced my first set of wheels and found it surprisingly easy because of this video!! thanks for making it. Tensioning and truing the wheel took a little longer as i just used my bike frame, but in the end i got there! thanks!
Thanks so much for this! I followed this last night and laced up my first ever bike wheel for my MTB. I still have to tension it and true it, but it's quite close as it is.
Excellent video - thank you so much for this 😊 Could anyone help me with what the follow video on tensioning and trueing is titled? I haven't been able to find it. Thanks!
Thank you so much! I tried to follow a few others, but things were left out. This is so good. I downloaded to MP4 to for my "must have in case of no internet" vids. :)
Clear and precise tutorial without all the small talk. Now I’m going to grab a old bike on the curb side hard rubbish and graphics an old bike so I can practice. Thanks heaps.
Ha ha....you've taught me how to build a wheel but now I think I should teach you how to knit. Sorry to say it more complicated than wheel building, so grab your biccies and a cuppa 😂
Well done.. I have been wrenching on bicycles for nearly 40 years, built thousands of wheels and your explanation is clear and concise... I am glad that you started with the front and not get caught up in dishing, pulling and pushing spokes and other confusing things for most people... You deserve a pint of stout.. Z
Thank you very much Steven, I‘m at wheel number four - did the very simple ParkTool method until today. Wheel number five is on my bench, so I‘ll change to your (in my opinion) much easier way ❤Greets from Bavaria 🍻
Excellent tutorial except hes not very gd at his fractions i gather coz his 3rd wheel is only half as hard as his 2nd one but a quarter as hard as his 1st one.??? N his 4th wheel is only half as hard as his 3rd wheel but also a quarter as hard as his 2nd one???? Now im confused???????????🤷🏽♂️🤷🏽♂️🤷🏽♂️🙋🏻♂️🙋🏻♂️🙋🏻♂️🙅🏻♂️🙅🏻♂️🙅🏻♂️.
I just used this on a 32h Mulefut 80 fat bike with a DT 350 hub and it worked exactly the same as the 32, much thanks! onto the hard part now (so they tell me)
I would like to see this video remade with you dressed as Humphry Bear or as the Red Wiggle - "Ok children, now get your next spoke, miss a hole and drop it in. Then count with me: 1,2,3,4 holes......"
What just happened? Within 14 minutes you have removed all the stress, uncertainty and black magic on how to lace a wheel. No guide on wheel building has ever been presented to me, in a more simple and useful way where I feel I could do this. I salute you. Thankyou
Your technique does not work if the hub is huge -- as in Swytch. Instead, one must work one face, half-way, with the spokes poked IN, then landed; Then the opposite face, half-way, with the spokes poked IN, then landed; Then the Face One is completed with spokes poked THROUGH, then landed; And finally, Face Two is completed with the last spokes poked THROUGH, and then landed. You hub geometry analysis is above par; for that your video was invaluable -- so thanks.
Thank you for this awesome video, by far the best I’ve seen. For my first wheel I started by replacing a bad hub of a wheel I’d disassembled. What tripped me up is that I didn’t realize that, because it was a rear wheel, that the non-drive side spokes were longer than the drive side.
At 7.06, it must be mentioned that the hub should be rotated in the right direction, whitch makes that the parallel gap for the valve is preserved. If you turn the hub to the wrong side, you lose that parallel gap, if unexperienced, it's a painful determination when your wheel is fully completed.
You know in life when you come across a great Mentor...Oz Cycle is that Mentor! Well Done! Thank you for producing your videos! I am off to tackle my first wheel build. I am sure I will find a few more stumbling blocks during the build but, I believe I have enough knowledge to start the wheel build.
Unfortunately it may be 3-4months away as I have a backlog of vids that are due. If unsure,just go slowly with small amounts of tension. When it looks straight tension the whole wheel 1 turn again. Keep doing that until its got good tension and is straight.
Really cool. i just got my Trek 370 sport bike out of the basement. Can't wait to put good stainless steel spokes on the Rear Rim. and go for a Ride. !!
Apparently there is a great deal of difference, decreasing the margin for error, between a 26 inch and a 20 inch rim. Am near chucking it all in the dumpster and buying the kid a unicycle.
Just built my first bicycle wheel and I have to thank you for the great tutorial. Super strait forward, fun to watch and very informative. Cheers mate !
I have a catrike speed, comes with 16" front wheels and I want to increase them to 20", question is.... what length spokes do I order ? Catrike offers new 20" wheels complete for $150. But I would assume it's cheaper to re spoke my hub onto a new rim ? Because it's a recumbent trike, the hub is different than a regular bicycle hub. It only connects on one side.
Hey, so im an ozzy living in the Philippines . We have pedicabs here & I want to use a motor bike front end & use the spoked drum break hub & respoke it on to the bicycle rim! Can I do that mate? Onya ; )
I'm not a Vlogger but maybe you can make a Video on this Topic. It would be quite original since there are so many redundant/rehashed Bike Maintenance Videos out there: "Swapping out ALL the OLD Spokes on a Wheel for NEW Spokes". This would come in handy for upgrading a Wheel with weak generic spokes to quality brand name spokes ... say from a Budget Bike, replacing old worn out spokes that are starting to break, upgrading to lighter or aero bladed spokes, or strengthening the Wheel by replacing the old thin spokes with new thicker spokes. I just finished REPLACING all the spokes on one of my wheels. The old spokes were very old, too thin (15g), and starting to break. I used what I 'Think' is a 'New Method', (I did a 'little' Internet research and haven't run into this method) but it really is just common sense so I'm sure I'm not the 1st guy to 'figure out' this method. My 'New Method' was I pretty much just measured the spoke tension on each individual old spoke BEFORE I removed it (Using Park Tool TM-1 Spoke Tension Meter) and swapped it out with a new 14g Spoke and tensioned that spoke to the EXACT SAME Tension when I installed it. I just replaced each individual adjacent spoke going around the Whole Wheel. I cleaned each individual empty hub and rim spoke hole after removing the old spoke, before replacing the new one. That cleaned the hub and rim just as well as removing all the spokes at once. I also used an old school method and lubed the rim spoke holes and new spoke's threads with BOILED Linseed oil. ((Spoke Prep or any GREASE (Lasts WAY longer than oil) will also work)). Amazingly (actually LOGICALLY) the Wheel maintained pretty much its' EXACT original Dish and Lateral and Round Tru, only requiring MINOR truing. I think minor tweeking was needed mainly because I 'distressed' the Wheel by uniformily grabbing and sqeezing all adjacent spokes real hard and placing lateral inboard pressure on the spokes next to the 'J Bend' of the hub. This 'New Technique' resulted in a BOMBPROOF Wheel! Do Note that this Wheel (when it had the Old Spokes on it) was properly Dished, trued and all the spokes evenly tensioned when I started this project. PS - Love your Channel and Content (and Accent) BTW. Your mannerisms and unique sense of humor spice up the content quite a bit. You are very entertaining.
Good job Michael !...nice your wheels turned out just right. Not often would anyone need to replace all spokes these days unless the spokes are too light for the rider weight. Be careful using permanent lubes on spoke threads as the can eventually work loose again. Thanx for the vid suggestion I will put it on the list.
@@stevenleffanue Indeed I have made that mistake when I was in my 'Green' phase of Wheelbuilding. The THINNER the oil the MORE LIKELY the nipple will rattle loose over time (Especially thin Penetrating oil like 'Loosen All' if working on corroded spokes). However I have found that the OLDEST spoke thread prep is THE BEST for PREVENTING nipples loosening ... BOILED Linseed oil (BLO). In FACT if you have a troublesome Wheel where some spokes just WILL NOT stay put and loosen up after repeated tightening, dripping BLO into the thread will 'Locktight' the spoke nipple. When BLO 'dries' it stays Sticky, just enough to hold the nipple in place, but not enough to cause the nipple to grab the spoke thread causing spoke twist if future adjustment is needed. BLO never COMPLETELY dries and stays in a sticky/greasy consistency which is PERFECT because the nipple will stay put after future truings. Just drip BLO into each spoke nipple instead of oil before truing any Wheel and you essentially applied 'Adjustible Thread Lock'. $8 US/Liter container should last for several years and thousands of spokes. Being a Tall Clyde, 192cm and 100kg, I Beat the Hell out of all my Bikes. This has made me a much better Bike Mechanic than Cyclist. It has also saved me quite a bit of money, since I never hire Mechanics, and the more durable bikes are budget entry level alloy and steel bikes with 32 spoke wheels (Which REQUIRE replacing the cheap stock spokes and cheap stock 23mm tires with 28mms'). Senseless for a Beast like me to be a Carbon Fiber Weight Weenie. PS - Another original Video idea: Tie and Soldering Spokes. This can really beef up a Rear Wheel for certain applications: For Clydes, Touring Bikes, MTBs, Tandems and Powerful Cyclists (Miguel Indurain had his Mechanics tie/solder his rear drive side spokes since he was such a powerful masher).
Thread locker for nipples? Lubricant? Montage paste/Anti seize? I want to feel that, the wheels that I build, are truly better, than those factory made..
Thank you for the video and happy Friday.. PS. My profile pic is a bit too small here to see properly, but there's a guy holding a pink monsrter on his hand. That monster is Friday.. It's written also on it's body.. His other hand is hidden behind his back, because it was too much trouble to draw it.. or rather, I did not know how to draw it. :P
Just wanted to say thanks, completed my first mountain bike wheel today and saved a ton doing it myself and using my old hub and spokes again. the hardest part was the trueing and tensioning!
Very good explanation. I feel more confident to try it. Is there a part 2 about trueing?
This video gives me confidence on building or should I say making my very first wheel from scratch. Thanks mate for explaining the easiest way of properly making a bicycle wheel.
By far the easiest guide I ever came across for wheel building. Thanks good sir.
I agreed
Thank you much, Sir. You show some excellent ideas. Fabricating better than reasonaly priced tools (& parts) instead of spending far more than justifiable has long been used by family. Please continue the fun.
One more thing, I have looked at other wheel / lacing vids and do they waffle on? You are clear, well spoken, concise and straight to the point. Just saying.
I'm not speak english so well,but....this video is better explicit that my language videos...!
So systematically and well explained. I thought I would never understand it, but I do believe I have, after seeing your video.
Awesome Video! One thing I just never knew... it was like alchemy! nice job Thanks!
Great video, if there is an easy way to explain, this is it. I had no idea how to build a wheel, and it really is not that difficult, just hard work.
Maybe after the video about the true weel, or with him, could you explain how to fix a broken spoke.
I imagine it's just a replacement for a new spoke, but I've seen people fixing the wheel on the side of the road because they had a spare spoke, what kind of tool it would take, just to get home on the bike. I think this could give an interesting video too!
And about the Bianchi, beautiful bike! A review of a bike like this would be cool!
Congratulations Steven, the channel is always getting better!
Thanks mate, this video really helped me out, I'd swapped rims before by using cable ties to hold the spokes together where they overlap to keep the spoke pattern intact while I swapped the rim, but I didn't know how to lace a wheel up from scratch, thank you for the straightforward and thorough explanation and showing of how to do it, top work 👍🏻👍🏻
Nice and funny man. Thank you. I understood it all and it helps me when I build mine tmr. Have to go get biscuits first..
"Relax".., dude i saw the price on a pair of new cxp 14 mavic's and my jaw droppet!. (just the rims)
But i want this o'l gal back on the road with the original rims so it's worth the money (100 Euros), but realizing that i had to build them from scratch was definitely a bit intimidating.
Really enjoyed this video man, great delivery and stuff!!!!
Great video! I’ve laced 2 wheels so far. Great explanation! Thank you!
Ok - I got some biscuits 😂 and finally tried it - I’m proud to say I’ve just completed my first wheel !! I replaced a rusty old 3 speed sturmey archer 3 speed hub with a nice shiny new one !! Thanks for the clear and easy to follow instructions . I’ve been wanting to do this for ages but haven’t been game and now it’s done . Thank you 👍
Getting ready to do my 1956 Schwinn, new 3 speed Sturmey Archer hub, 26" wheel.
It took me a couple of goes and about 2 hours but I've laced it correctly. Now just need to tension it.
hey just wanted to say thank you! i laced my first set of wheels and found it surprisingly easy because of this video!! thanks for making it. Tensioning and truing the wheel took a little longer as i just used my bike frame, but in the end i got there! thanks!
What about part 2? My wheels have been sat there for a year now with floppy spokes.
Sorry Joe. It's on my to do list
Hi there. Did you ever get to part 2. Can't find it on utube.
Thanks so much for this! I followed this last night and laced up my first ever bike wheel for my MTB. I still have to tension it and true it, but it's quite close as it is.
Excellent video - thank you so much for this 😊
Could anyone help me with what the follow video on tensioning and trueing is titled? I haven't been able to find it.
Thanks!
Thank you so much! I tried to follow a few others, but things were left out. This is so good. I downloaded to MP4 to for my "must have in case of no internet" vids. :)
Clear and precise tutorial without all the small talk. Now I’m going to grab a old bike on the curb side hard rubbish and graphics an old bike so I can practice. Thanks heaps.
Ha ha....you've taught me how to build a wheel but now I think I should teach you how to knit. Sorry to say it more complicated than wheel building, so grab your biccies and a cuppa 😂
Knit one , pearl one 😁
May I join the legion of viewers asking “Where is Part II of this otherwise excellent demo video?” Tensioning and trueing of the spokes.
It's on the "to do" list but people keep asking for product reviews. Hopefully within the next six months.
Fantastic video and instructions! I just laced up my first wheel thanks to you!
Well done.. I have been wrenching on bicycles for nearly 40 years, built thousands of wheels and your explanation is clear and concise... I am glad that you started with the front and not get caught up in dishing, pulling and pushing spokes and other confusing things for most people... You deserve a pint of stout.. Z
Yeh, explaining how to build wheels can be confusing hey? Mmm..stouts nice after a hard ride with the boys 😁
Thank you very much Steven, I‘m at wheel number four - did the very simple ParkTool method until today. Wheel number five is on my bench, so I‘ll change to your (in my opinion) much easier way ❤Greets from Bavaria 🍻
Excellent tutorial except hes not very gd at his fractions i gather coz his 3rd wheel is only half as hard as his 2nd one but a quarter as hard as his 1st one.??? N his 4th wheel is only half as hard as his 3rd wheel but also a quarter as hard as his 2nd one???? Now im confused???????????🤷🏽♂️🤷🏽♂️🤷🏽♂️🙋🏻♂️🙋🏻♂️🙋🏻♂️🙅🏻♂️🙅🏻♂️🙅🏻♂️.
Yank here. So far I've seen 3 aussies on RUclips and you are all funny. Is humor more common in Australia than other countries?
You got it
The best tutorial out there to build a 36 spoke wheel with the 3 cross method.
I still have Jobst Brandts wheel building book, it must be from the 90`s or early 2000`s, still a great book to have :)
I type in jobst on eBay they come up pantyhose’s
Very expensive book
scan it
I just used this on a 32h Mulefut 80 fat bike with a DT 350 hub and it worked exactly the same as the 32, much thanks! onto the hard part now (so they tell me)
I would like to see this video remade with you dressed as Humphry Bear or as the Red Wiggle - "Ok children, now get your next spoke, miss a hole and drop it in. Then count with me: 1,2,3,4 holes......"
Haha...I think the viewers would resent being treated as a child.
Love your vids mate clear instructions and great banter. Always learning!! 👍
Good Video !
I HATE BUILDING WHEELS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i have done 10 pairs Now 26er and 29er
Thank you very much.🦾
What just happened? Within 14 minutes you have removed all the stress, uncertainty and black magic on how to lace a wheel. No guide on wheel building has ever been presented to me, in a more simple and useful way where I feel I could do this. I salute you. Thankyou
Glad the vid has helped you James. Happy wheelbuilding :)
I can see you doing really bad Dad..... jokes Ha........... great info enjoyed
🎆🎆🎈🌟🚲🚲THANK YOU MATE, I`LL PUT ANOTHER SPOKE ON MY BARBY🔥🔥🚴🏿♂️🚴🏿♂️🚴🏿♂️💖💖💖💥💥OVER AND UNDER 🔥🔥🔥🚴♂️🚴♂️🚴♂️🚴♂️
Your technique does not work if the hub is huge -- as in Swytch.
Instead, one must work one face, half-way, with the spokes poked IN, then landed;
Then the opposite face, half-way, with the spokes poked IN, then landed;
Then the Face One is completed with spokes poked THROUGH, then landed;
And finally, Face Two is completed with the last spokes poked THROUGH, and then landed.
You hub geometry analysis is above par; for that your video was invaluable -- so thanks.
Really appreciate your help
Today I rebuild my cycle rim 👍👍👍❣️❣️❣️❣️❣️❣️
Lots of Thanks & Love From Pakistan
Thanks for sharing this. gave me a good understanding of how wheels are built. going to tackle my first wheel building project soon...
Thank you for this awesome video, by far the best I’ve seen. For my first wheel I started by replacing a bad hub of a wheel I’d disassembled. What tripped me up is that I didn’t realize that, because it was a rear wheel, that the non-drive side spokes were longer than the drive side.
Thank you this is so cool
It's still confusing and complicated. I'm lost...(scratching my head) :(
this is classic...im gonna try this and hopefully someday i can build and true my on wheels..
I watch your videos religiously always good stuff to learn thank you for sharing!
Great guide for beginners! Thank you for making video!
Is the tensioning and truing video out somewhere? Dont seemed to be able to find it :)
No. Im lazy ...must get around to it soon 👍
I mastered the science of wheel building, but thanks for the refresher course.
Always a pleasure to watch your videos. Thank you so much for your kind and full of knowledge advises!
I couldn’t do it 😟 I had no biscuits 🙁
At 7.06, it must be mentioned that the hub should be rotated in the right direction, whitch makes that the parallel gap for the valve is preserved. If you turn the hub to the wrong side, you lose that parallel gap, if unexperienced, it's a painful determination when your wheel is fully completed.
what if you get the spoke in the wrong hole when starting the other side of the wheel 10:30
The spoke will appear too long or too short at the rim
@@stevenleffanue thanks mate
You know in life when you come across a great Mentor...Oz Cycle is that Mentor! Well Done! Thank you for producing your videos! I am off to tackle my first wheel build. I am sure I will find a few more stumbling blocks during the build but, I believe I have enough knowledge to start the wheel build.
I need that truing video ASAP :D in desperate need to true 2 wheels
Unfortunately it may be 3-4months away as I have a backlog of vids that are due. If unsure,just go slowly with small amounts of tension. When it looks straight tension the whole wheel 1 turn again. Keep doing that until its got good tension and is straight.
I was thinking about buying the park tool spoke tensioner. Is this thing anything good ?
oz cycle Great video but still no video on tensioning the spokes? Please upload or remove this video. Thanks
Clear as always !
Waiting part II and III !
Really cool. i just got my Trek 370 sport bike out of the basement. Can't wait to put good stainless steel spokes on the Rear Rim. and go for a Ride. !!
Thank you so much for this video! I think I just found my favourite bicycle mechanic channel
Hi, great video, can someone tell me where I can find the next video please 🙏🏻
Thank you so much for this, just finished my first wheel. Easy to follow instructions allowed me to get it right the first time.
Apparently there is a great deal of difference, decreasing the margin for error, between a 26 inch and a 20 inch rim. Am near chucking it all in the dumpster and buying the kid a unicycle.
Thanks. I have a old pro 2 evo I wanted to stick on my bike but the prices wheelbuilders are painful
How hard will my 108976th wheel be though?
Just built my first bicycle wheel and I have to thank you for the great tutorial. Super strait forward, fun to watch and very informative. Cheers mate !
Great vidéo, very helpful, many thanks
Cheers mate! Very easy to follow instructions and great humour. Hopefully will build my first wheelset soon.
Im on my 7th wheel and its still as hard as the 1st and 2nd an 3rd an 4th an 5th and 6th.
Thank you for the simple truth...
Great! Now I think I can build a wheel, thank for making sense of it all.
I have a catrike speed, comes with 16" front wheels and I want to increase them to 20", question is.... what length spokes do I order ? Catrike offers new 20" wheels complete for $150. But I would assume it's cheaper to re spoke my hub onto a new rim ? Because it's a recumbent trike, the hub is different than a regular bicycle hub. It only connects on one side.
Brian's Adventures Brian , unicycle.com has a spoke length calculator that might be of help to your question
Thank you was my first lace and your a great teacher
The most near understanding about lacing among other video ..tq sir
Excellent video 👏☺️ at the risk of saying something stupid ..what length spokes do you need ..I believe they come in different lengths 🤔
Use an online spoke calculator
best wheel building instructions. above all the others
Thank you so much for this video, I was able to rebuild the wheels of a 1950 Bianchi Cortina …...
Thanks for the vid, made me far less anxious about building a wheel and made me smile too
knowledgeable vedio. thanku sir❤
Awesome video! Have you made a video on how to tighten the spokes?
Not yet Nathan but it's on the list
@@stevenleffanue do i just tighten each spoke uniformly and slowly to going around a few times? Or is it more complicated than that?
Yes basically.
Loved the video, thanks! Have you got around to do the follow up videos too?
It's been a lot of years since I did one, Great refresher. Thanks.
Pretty good....but what about discing it for a rear hub?
i wanted the wheels to keep going up at the end.... follow up video? haha
You're funny and informative. Great video
LOL, he literally skips the trueing part. No part 2 obviously. But this lacing video is very clear, thanks anyway.
Its on the to do list
Thank you, great video and explanation.
The N-th wheel will be 1/(2^N) as hard as the first wheel! :p
Hey, so im an ozzy living in the Philippines . We have pedicabs here & I want to use a motor bike front end & use the spoked drum break hub & respoke it on to the bicycle rim! Can I do that mate? Onya ; )
I havnt a clue about motorbikes....sorry
of all the tutorials, this and only this that I'll be able to doi it in the 1st try..
I took my 26' mountain bike front wheel and loosened all the spokes. Afterwards the rim was bent like a pretzel. Is this normal? or is this rim bad?
Rim needs replacing
A lot of spokes that are too much, how to fix it?
Did you ever make the next video for tensioning and truing, I couldn’t find it on your channel. Maybe link in description ?
Not yet
Dinala lang ako dito ni UnliAhon
👇
Thank you, thank you, thank you. Now Ive learned.
I love your videos, mate, Cheers!
Very good teaching I like this video
I'm not a Vlogger but maybe you can make a Video on this Topic. It would be quite original since there are so many redundant/rehashed Bike Maintenance Videos out there: "Swapping out ALL the OLD Spokes on a Wheel for NEW Spokes".
This would come in handy for upgrading a Wheel with weak generic spokes to quality brand name spokes ... say from a Budget Bike, replacing old worn out spokes that are starting to break, upgrading to lighter or aero bladed spokes, or strengthening the Wheel by replacing the old thin spokes with new thicker spokes.
I just finished REPLACING all the spokes on one of my wheels. The old spokes were very old, too thin (15g), and starting to break.
I used what I 'Think' is a 'New Method', (I did a 'little' Internet research and haven't run into this method) but it really is just common sense so I'm sure I'm not the 1st guy to 'figure out' this method.
My 'New Method' was I pretty much just measured the spoke tension on each individual old spoke BEFORE I removed it (Using Park Tool TM-1 Spoke Tension Meter) and swapped it out with a new 14g Spoke and tensioned that spoke to the EXACT SAME Tension when I installed it. I just replaced each individual adjacent spoke going around the Whole Wheel. I cleaned each individual empty hub and rim spoke hole after removing the old spoke, before replacing the new one. That cleaned the hub and rim just as well as removing all the spokes at once.
I also used an old school method and lubed the rim spoke holes and new spoke's threads with BOILED Linseed oil. ((Spoke Prep or any GREASE (Lasts WAY longer than oil) will also work)).
Amazingly (actually LOGICALLY) the Wheel maintained pretty much its' EXACT original Dish and Lateral and Round Tru, only requiring MINOR truing. I think minor tweeking was needed mainly because I 'distressed' the Wheel by uniformily grabbing and sqeezing all adjacent spokes real hard and placing lateral inboard pressure on the spokes next to the 'J Bend' of the hub.
This 'New Technique' resulted in a BOMBPROOF Wheel!
Do Note that this Wheel (when it had the Old Spokes on it) was properly Dished, trued and all the spokes evenly tensioned when I started this project.
PS - Love your Channel and Content (and Accent) BTW. Your mannerisms and unique sense of humor spice up the content quite a bit. You are very entertaining.
Good job Michael !...nice your wheels turned out just right. Not often would anyone need to replace all spokes these days unless the spokes are too light for the rider weight. Be careful using permanent lubes on spoke threads as the can eventually work loose again. Thanx for the vid suggestion I will put it on the list.
@@stevenleffanue Indeed I have made that mistake when I was in my 'Green' phase of Wheelbuilding. The THINNER the oil the MORE LIKELY the nipple will rattle loose over time (Especially thin Penetrating oil like 'Loosen All' if working on corroded spokes). However I have found that the OLDEST spoke thread prep is THE BEST for PREVENTING nipples loosening ... BOILED Linseed oil (BLO).
In FACT if you have a troublesome Wheel where some spokes just WILL NOT stay put and loosen up after repeated tightening, dripping BLO into the thread will 'Locktight' the spoke nipple. When BLO 'dries' it stays Sticky, just enough to hold the nipple in place, but not enough to cause the nipple to grab the spoke thread causing spoke twist if future adjustment is needed. BLO never COMPLETELY dries and stays in a sticky/greasy consistency which is PERFECT because the nipple will stay put after future truings. Just drip BLO into each spoke nipple instead of oil before truing any Wheel and you essentially applied 'Adjustible Thread Lock'. $8 US/Liter container should last for several years and thousands of spokes.
Being a Tall Clyde, 192cm and 100kg, I Beat the Hell out of all my Bikes. This has made me a much better Bike Mechanic than Cyclist. It has also saved me quite a bit of money, since I never hire Mechanics, and the more durable bikes are budget entry level alloy and steel bikes with 32 spoke wheels (Which REQUIRE replacing the cheap stock spokes and cheap stock 23mm tires with 28mms').
Senseless for a Beast like me to be a Carbon Fiber Weight Weenie.
PS - Another original Video idea: Tie and Soldering Spokes. This can really beef up a Rear Wheel for certain applications: For Clydes, Touring Bikes, MTBs, Tandems and Powerful Cyclists (Miguel Indurain had his Mechanics tie/solder his rear drive side spokes since he was such a powerful masher).
Thread locker for nipples? Lubricant? Montage paste/Anti seize? I want to feel that, the wheels that I build, are truly better, than those factory made..
Yes there are more advanced aspects to wheel building but this is just the basics for a beginner. Thanks for watching Hardi :)
Thank you for the video and happy Friday.. PS. My profile pic is a bit too small here to see properly, but there's a guy holding a pink monsrter on his hand. That monster is Friday.. It's written also on it's body.. His other hand is hidden behind his back, because it was too much trouble to draw it.. or rather, I did not know how to draw it. :P
Did you make a second part to this?
Best teaching technique regarding the wheel making process. Thank you sir🙂😀❤️
Did you do the follow-up tensioning and truing video? I'm unable to find it.
Not yet 🥴