I love how you guys are able to show the real struggle that is for begginers to do certain things on a bike. So much helpful compared with expert mechanics who can do thing with eyes closed. Thanks
I love your video formats and the summaries you do at the end. So nice to follow. Humor is great and it really shows you are human, whereas others are trying to act so pretentiously "professional" and that gets dry & boring. Thanks for helping everyone out with your videos.
If you're lucky, truing only consists of bringing the new spoke up to tension. Always mark (tape, twist tie, etc.) your new spoke so you can quickly find it while working on the wheel. Don't adjust any other spokes if you can avoid it. If your wheel was true before the spoke failure, there's no reason it shouldn't go right back to where it was when the new spoke is installed and brought up to tension. None of the other spokes have changed, so they're fine. Adjusting other spoke tensions unnecessarily will only throw off your tensions and shorten the life of the wheel. PS Subscribed. Great video, along with all your other video's I've watched. Thanks!
I feel vindicated. I always used to think (and comment) that this channel was way underrated and that it deserved a much greater audience especially with the effort that you guys put into the content and the information value that you put out. Congrats. Well deserved.
A useful tip is that you can guess at the correct spoke length reasonably accurately if you measure from the elbow to the nipple and add 10mm (assuming standard 12mm nipples). This is useful in the (common) scenario that you're missing part of the original spoke and you don't want to unthread another. When buying a new spoke, err on the long side if you have to as to a point you'll just have extra thread coming out the back of the nipple--too short and you're risking premature failure of the nipple. Also this video makes it pretty clear that it's probably worth getting the correct single size spoke wrench for your wheel--there are really only two very commonly used sizes for standard square drive nipples. Also useful information would be the general advise that one or two spoke failures on a wheel can be chalked up to poor luck, but more than that and its clear the wheel has been subjected to excess stress and the majority of the spokes are probably near failure and the wheel should really just be replaced or rebuilt.
Spokes break due to fatigue, which is as prominent during JRA as it is during hard descending. Basically spokes are weighted and unweighted during every revolution of the wheel. This results in many load cycles which then causes the material to develop a fatigue fracture. In many cases you can see a so-called half penny shaped crack on the fracture surface, which is an easy way to identify a fatigue fracture.
Spoke nipples break as well as spokes do themselves. As I said, it is fatigue. The most common type of failure (for J-bend spokes) is a fracture within the spokes thred (1st load bearing thread turn) or within the "J"
Spokes go through a "high" and "less high" tension cycle while riding. Saying "unweighted" implies the spokes go through a "tension/no tension" cycle which is not how tension wheels are designed to function. When it's the former scenario, a well-tensioned wheel will last many, many years. When it's the latter (a poorly built wheel with insufficient tension), fatigue failure leads to premature death of a wheel. Low tension also causes rim cracks (and NOT high tension, which common sense may suggest). Bill Mould recently appeared on the NBDA podcast where he discussed these issues in some depth. And Steve F, if you've experienced frequent nipple failure, I can only assume you're using alloy nipples. They don't do well with today's tubeless sealants. And although they are a bit lighter and come in nice colors, most manufacturers are using only brass nipples. Personally, I've had excellent experience with alloy nipples in non-tubeless wheels for decades, including my mountain tandem (the same one I've destroyed six rear hubs on ). I'm currently in the process of rebuilding two nice carbon wheels whose alloy nipples have been destructively corroded by sealant. If you're using brass nipples, then you may have excessive bend where the spoke enters the rim, causing a stress riser at the nipple. This can be remedied by an experienced wheel builder. Good luck!
Great content as always! Wanted to share my story about broken spokes. I broke 6 spokes in my rear wheel this year on my Trek 1120, every single time it was on a gravel road after riding singletrack. Every time I replaced one I'd check the others, my tension was all over the place, my wheel dishing went out twice. Finally took it to a shop and they found 5 cracks in my alloy rim! I'm getting the wheel replaced on warranty but there's part shortages and no ETA on when I'll get a replacement. The best season for riding is here and my bike is dead! Pity party for 1 over here.
Broken spokes & rim cracks are usually due to insufficient spoke tension from day one. Today's 10, 11, or 12 speed rear wheels can make achieving proper NDS spoke tensions difficult. Wheel dish is extreme so NDS spokes barely reach enough tension before DS spokes are at 120kgf (the max for most hub & rim manufacturers).
@@dudeonbike800 Thanks for the tip! I need to get a tension gauge. I would check my spoke tension by hand during my maintenance checks, was pretty steady until the last 12 months, I'm assuming once the cracks started showing up. Full story, it's a 2017 Trek 1120 and the wheel set has been nothing but problems. This will be the 3rd rear wheel I've had replaced on warranty, First 2 were hub race failures that ruined the hub, had all the internals replaced on the 2nd wheel, now cracked the rim on the 3rd. It's a SunRingle rim with basic a$$ bontrager hubs. Since my last post, I have hopefully circumvented this issue by ordering a custom wheel set from Colorado Cyclist. Getting Raceface ARC offset 40mm rims with DT swiss 350 hubs with 54 tooth ratchet, should be a nice upgrade for the bike.
@@2scoops624 You're welcome! That's a solid wheelset and should eliminate your issues. OEM wheels are a place where a lot of manufacturers save $$$. Good luck.
NIce video, I would add: Some people add a little oil to the threads so that the spoke and the nipple don't fuse. Also if you keep a spare nipple and spoke you can use them to figure out which way to turn the nipple to tighten or loosen it.
I've come to really enjoy using your videos when I need to do something new. I've recently rebuilt my rear fox shock and serviced and changed the travel of my fox front fork. Thanks so much for putting these together!
I'm sure someone else has mentioned this but you can also hold the spoke nipple and rotate the spoke I generally bend the end of the spoke to where I can get a hold of it, and then unscrew it out of the nipple.
I have recently got into riding bicycles in NZ 🇳🇿 as we have entered a long lockdown and gyms are closed. Your bicycles tips have been helping quite a bit so thank you very much, Syd keep up the good videos. 😁👍
Great videos with awesome mtb maintenance tips! but Syd, you make the videos so entertaining with your comments and reactions!! Keep the videos coming!!
So, I was watching another channel, and the guy there was building a bike. I thought to myself, I must not be subscribed to this channel. It turns out I was, but not getting notifications. Anyway, the activity on the other channel gave me withdrawal symptoms from, " Sid Fixes Bikes", videos. I've always used a cable tie on the rear triangle to true a wheel. I probably need a truing stand after going more than 50 years without one, (including complete wheel builds).
I did a stupid on my ebike and broke some spokes. I have the hub motor, torque arm, and long fenders to remove/work around. So I run tubes. I can deflate the tube and pull everything to one side and change a spoke on the bike with my road repair kit. I use the same spoke wrench you do. If I'm working on the bike without flipping it, I use the old spoke to hold the new spoke nipple so I can get the screwdriver on it in place and remove the old spoke.
I had 2 that the heads broke off, but the 'J' bend was still able to hook into the hole. I twisted wire around it at the cross over point of another spoke nearest the hub. A zip tie would probably worked as well. I rode over 20km with the 2 'fixed' that way. The replacement job required undoing several other spokes to weave the new ones in.
Thanks for this but, am about to venture on long bike packing trip. I am wondering if you could take this to another level and show how to fix or replace a spoke in the field. I have never broke a spoke or had to true so this would be a great value to me. Thanks
Congrats on 100k, guys! I've been following you since forever, but this channel has helped me TONS. Haven't taken my bike to the shop in a while, except for suspension service. The format is great and the information is great.
When performing work like this, I ALWAYS clean the wheel. Rag on the cassette & greasy bits to remove the gunk, then a thorough wash of everything else with appropriate soap & water. That way you aren't dealing with grime while repairing, it's easier to spot any other issues that may be present, and installing, seating and sealing a tubeless tire is WAY easier when it doesn't have dirt everywhere. Bike Mechanic: "When you go to the dentist, do you brush your teeth first?" This is the argument for washing a bike prior to doing more than just basic maintenance.
I guess if you think of it as a nut on a bolt, the direction makes sense. It's confusing because looking at it from the "bolt" side you would usually turn the bolt.
Woohoo 100k! Congrats, guys :) I broke a spoke last night...then flatted and smashed my rim. Will probably just buy a new wheel. Probably should have checked the tension on my spokes... oops. Was just bunny hopping over some rocks and pop!
@@sydfixesbikes Well, it was probably on me, I haven't tightened my spokes. I was surprised at how much I damaged the rim. I think I broke the spoke right at the nipple and it immediately punctured my rim tape.
When removing a cassette I always use the plastic thing the the cassette was mounted on when new. That makes it easier to remount since all of the splines will be aligned. Not a problem with expensive one piece cassettes but many have the cogs separate and with spacers between the cogs. I prefer straight pull spoke hubs so you don't have to remove the cassette and rotor to replace a spoke. I also have some electrical tape around the seatpost to tape the spoke to another to keep it from causing more damage.
Mostly because I am cheap and/or lazy...could one "patch" the rim tape with an additional strip of tape? If I were to do this, I would got one spoke past on either side of the nipple that broke the tape. At any rate, love your channels!!
You can, but what we've found usually happens is that the tape doesn't stick well because of the sealant that was on it. And even if you can get it to stick, the air seems to find a way under the tape... So, possible but not advised.
I recently had to do this the day before a race. I had to poke a hole in the rim tape for a new nipple that broke. Then cleaned the existing tape with alcohol and put another layer of rim tape. It made the tire a little harder to install but worked great.
Love this channel. All the fumbling and wheel tango feels familiar. And remembering someone’s wise words after things just wont progress as I expected. Good no pressure home mechanic vibes 👊🏻
Found your channel this week while I’m in quarantine 😞. Unfortunately I don’t know if I’ll get back out riding this year (I am a fair weather rider) or not.
Usually can't do much about localized bending, dents. Radial slams cannot really be "trued" out...(I mean, maybe, but you're stressing the spokes way too much if you try that, will probably just break a spoke nipple also). So if you have a radial wobble it'll be a miracle if you fix it. If you take it on a road, fast, and notice it's kinda jumping you up & down that's a good indicator, without even looking at the wheel. As always, if you can live with it, cool...if not, buy a new one.
I haven't ridden my bike in a couple of months because of monsoon here in india and now when I checked my cycle the gear wires,brake wires are really lose,any help?
No, LocTite will only mask your problem. Loose nipples are bad, but loose spokes are worse. Loose spokes or those with tension too low fatigue quickly and fail. Loose spokes also lead to looser nipples. Low tension also causes rim cracks, leading to additional premature failure problems. (That said, Linseed oil is an ideal thread lubricant because it dries and acts as a future thread locker. And yes, spoke threads need lube.) You need to have your wheel retensioned by a qualified wheel builder who uses a tension meter. Now if your wheel is damaged enough, that may be the cause of your loose spokes. But no way to tell over the interwebs. Someone who knows what they're doing need to evaluate your wheel and suggest a solution. Good luck.
Hey syd i had a cuestion im getting an old rochrider st 100 3x7 from my friend but i waned to know if i could change the amount of shifts if i replace the shifter and keep the derieur that is on there and make it an 1x8 (sorry my english is very bad)
Why did it break? Usually fatigue. Could be due to damage, of the chain variety being very common on the right side. If your chain ever goes over the large cog and into the spokes and you fail to notice fast enough and you apply some pedal pressure, your chain will score your spokes. This scoring causes a "stress riser" and will lead to premature fatigue failure. This is actually the best scenario. (Best to replace all of the scored spokes before they fail. Or if you're cheap, then simply grind off the damaged area and make it smooth without removing any excess material. This SHOULD extend the life of the spokes.) If you have no external damage, then spoke failure may indicate the end of life of the wheel. The LBS rule is you replace the first broken spoke and see how things go. You ALWAYS warn the customer that they may break a second (or third) spoke in the first five minutes. You cannot really know until you try. If you're lucky, it was an aberration and you get more life out of the wheel. (This is not true of broken nipples, especially alloy. Alloy fail when used with tubeless sealant and should be replaced.) If more spokes break, then the wheel's telling you "I'm done." Spokes and rims fatigue much faster when a wheel it built with low tensions. Loosening spokes is a tell-tale sign of low wheel tension (usually on the non drive side). If not remedied (brought up to proper tension), loose spokes will quickly fail. Ironically it's the "looser" spokes that fail, which is pretty counterintuitive. Rim cracks result as well. (Bill Mould has an excellent in-depth discussion of rim fatigue failure as well as nipple/rim interface issues that also cause premature rim failure.) Best way to achieve proper tension? A tension meter. I'm SO glad I'm now using one with all wheel builds and repairs. Shoulda made the investment 30 years ago instead of 10! PS "Thicker" spokes don't build stronger or better wheels. Counterintuitively, "thinner" spokes do! Butted spokes are not used for weight savings, but rather to build higher-quality wheels. Elasticity in a spoke is your friend and butted spokes are more elastic.
Just a bit of advice if you don't have it it true and tension to buy a mechanic all the same tension overtime your spokes if they're all different tensions when you're riding they can blow at time-to-time
100,000 wow, I was thinking you was pregnant lol Off topic really enjoyed your recent race videos well done to the older riders. What is the head unit you both use. Do you have a video on it. Keep up the good work Thanks David
It is usually possible to replace the nipple through the valve hole (like with the full UST rims). This saves replacing the tubeless tape (if it does not need a replacement) but does not save much nerves :)
I broke an outside spoke on a front 26x4 rim, I didn't have a extra spoke, so I visited my local shop. I dismounted half of the tire to expose the rim tape, the broken spoke didn't really mess up the balance. I was thinking the bill would be a few dollars, the spoke was about $2.00 and I was charged $37.00 for labor. I feel like a idiot.
I love how you guys are able to show the real struggle that is for begginers to do certain things on a bike. So much helpful compared with expert mechanics who can do thing with eyes closed. Thanks
Seriously the most approachable, entertaining and informative "how to" bike maintenance videos out there. Good reason for the 100k!
16mins of Video for 60seconds of work ... great 100k special^^
I love your video formats and the summaries you do at the end. So nice to follow. Humor is great and it really shows you are human, whereas others are trying to act so pretentiously "professional" and that gets dry & boring. Thanks for helping everyone out with your videos.
If you're lucky, truing only consists of bringing the new spoke up to tension. Always mark (tape, twist tie, etc.) your new spoke so you can quickly find it while working on the wheel. Don't adjust any other spokes if you can avoid it. If your wheel was true before the spoke failure, there's no reason it shouldn't go right back to where it was when the new spoke is installed and brought up to tension. None of the other spokes have changed, so they're fine.
Adjusting other spoke tensions unnecessarily will only throw off your tensions and shorten the life of the wheel.
PS Subscribed. Great video, along with all your other video's I've watched. Thanks!
Congrats! I'm not surprised by your success, you're providing info people need in an enjoyable format.
I feel vindicated.
I always used to think (and comment) that this channel was way underrated and that it deserved a much greater audience especially with the effort that you guys put into the content and the information value that you put out. Congrats. Well deserved.
My Bike Mechanic likes when I bring in my Mt Bike Dusty and Dirty! It shows I ride my bike 😁✌️ peace ✌️ and Love 💕 from Tucson Arizona 🏜️
I can do all my own MTB maintenance myself, thanks to you two ❤️
“I’m having a bad time”. Love your bluntness Syd haha
A useful tip is that you can guess at the correct spoke length reasonably accurately if you measure from the elbow to the nipple and add 10mm (assuming standard 12mm nipples). This is useful in the (common) scenario that you're missing part of the original spoke and you don't want to unthread another. When buying a new spoke, err on the long side if you have to as to a point you'll just have extra thread coming out the back of the nipple--too short and you're risking premature failure of the nipple. Also this video makes it pretty clear that it's probably worth getting the correct single size spoke wrench for your wheel--there are really only two very commonly used sizes for standard square drive nipples. Also useful information would be the general advise that one or two spoke failures on a wheel can be chalked up to poor luck, but more than that and its clear the wheel has been subjected to excess stress and the majority of the spokes are probably near failure and the wheel should really just be replaced or rebuilt.
just realized there are universal spoke tools. THANK YOU
happy to find a bike repair channel without a british accent and brit speak vocabulary
It is sort of funny how British channels dominate the RUclips cycling world. Guess it's from the long history of cycling in Europe?
Favourite bike mech channel for sure! Deserves millions of subs easilly!
You broke it, you FIX it. 100K is a no brainer. You provide simple solutions for the “common” folk. Oh, and you are entertaining AF.
Spokes break due to fatigue, which is as prominent during JRA as it is during hard descending. Basically spokes are weighted and unweighted during every revolution of the wheel. This results in many load cycles which then causes the material to develop a fatigue fracture. In many cases you can see a so-called half penny shaped crack on the fracture surface, which is an easy way to identify a fatigue fracture.
Do you mean spoke nipples? I've broken so many of those, but not actually spokes. I feel like if tension is proper, then this should happen.
Spoke nipples break as well as spokes do themselves. As I said, it is fatigue. The most common type of failure (for J-bend spokes) is a fracture within the spokes thred (1st load bearing thread turn) or within the "J"
Spokes go through a "high" and "less high" tension cycle while riding. Saying "unweighted" implies the spokes go through a "tension/no tension" cycle which is not how tension wheels are designed to function. When it's the former scenario, a well-tensioned wheel will last many, many years. When it's the latter (a poorly built wheel with insufficient tension), fatigue failure leads to premature death of a wheel. Low tension also causes rim cracks (and NOT high tension, which common sense may suggest). Bill Mould recently appeared on the NBDA podcast where he discussed these issues in some depth.
And Steve F, if you've experienced frequent nipple failure, I can only assume you're using alloy nipples. They don't do well with today's tubeless sealants. And although they are a bit lighter and come in nice colors, most manufacturers are using only brass nipples. Personally, I've had excellent experience with alloy nipples in non-tubeless wheels for decades, including my mountain tandem (the same one I've destroyed six rear hubs on ).
I'm currently in the process of rebuilding two nice carbon wheels whose alloy nipples have been destructively corroded by sealant.
If you're using brass nipples, then you may have excessive bend where the spoke enters the rim, causing a stress riser at the nipple. This can be remedied by an experienced wheel builder.
Good luck!
@@SteveF153Always use brass nipples. Worth the small weight penalty.
Woohoo! Congratulations on the 100k! 👍🏻🎉
Woah when did that happen?? Congrats though!!!
I love this channel. Lots of love from Malaysia.
Finally i know how to end my worst nightmare!!!
thanks!!! i love both of your channels
greetings from Chile
Amazing!!! I love watching Syd fix bikes. I learn skills and she doesn’t make me feel like a dumb _ _ s.
Congrats Syd! Getting a tubeless tire on a rim without a tire iron is method over brute strength.
I hope I never have to do this, but I know enough now to tell someone else how to do it! Thanks!
Great content as always! Wanted to share my story about broken spokes. I broke 6 spokes in my rear wheel this year on my Trek 1120, every single time it was on a gravel road after riding singletrack. Every time I replaced one I'd check the others, my tension was all over the place, my wheel dishing went out twice. Finally took it to a shop and they found 5 cracks in my alloy rim! I'm getting the wheel replaced on warranty but there's part shortages and no ETA on when I'll get a replacement. The best season for riding is here and my bike is dead! Pity party for 1 over here.
Broken spokes & rim cracks are usually due to insufficient spoke tension from day one. Today's 10, 11, or 12 speed rear wheels can make achieving proper NDS spoke tensions difficult. Wheel dish is extreme so NDS spokes barely reach enough tension before DS spokes are at 120kgf (the max for most hub & rim manufacturers).
@@dudeonbike800 Thanks for the tip! I need to get a tension gauge. I would check my spoke tension by hand during my maintenance checks, was pretty steady until the last 12 months, I'm assuming once the cracks started showing up. Full story, it's a 2017 Trek 1120 and the wheel set has been nothing but problems. This will be the 3rd rear wheel I've had replaced on warranty, First 2 were hub race failures that ruined the hub, had all the internals replaced on the 2nd wheel, now cracked the rim on the 3rd. It's a SunRingle rim with basic a$$ bontrager hubs. Since my last post, I have hopefully circumvented this issue by ordering a custom wheel set from Colorado Cyclist. Getting Raceface ARC offset 40mm rims with DT swiss 350 hubs with 54 tooth ratchet, should be a nice upgrade for the bike.
@@2scoops624 You're welcome! That's a solid wheelset and should eliminate your issues. OEM wheels are a place where a lot of manufacturers save $$$. Good luck.
NIce video, I would add: Some people add a little oil to the threads so that the spoke and the nipple don't fuse. Also if you keep a spare nipple and spoke you can use them to figure out which way to turn the nipple to tighten or loosen it.
I've been thinking about replacing a spoke while on tour. This looks like a complex process, but also somewhat doable. Thanks for this video!
I'm pleased to know I'm not the only one who adores you two's videos, congratulations and well earned :-)
Very well done. Congratulations!
Thank you so much for yor super positive spirit videos. They are great for my mood and great for my training as bike mechatronic : )
I've come to really enjoy using your videos when I need to do something new. I've recently rebuilt my rear fox shock and serviced and changed the travel of my fox front fork. Thanks so much for putting these together!
I'm sure someone else has mentioned this but you can also hold the spoke nipple and rotate the spoke I generally bend the end of the spoke to where I can get a hold of it, and then unscrew it out of the nipple.
Hi Syd and Matthew you two are totally great!
Congratulations for 100k
Had to watch a previous Syd sealant dance to get my fix. All's good.... Congratulations yous two on 100k! 🥳
I have recently got into riding bicycles in NZ 🇳🇿 as we have entered a long lockdown and gyms are closed. Your bicycles tips have been helping quite a bit so thank you very much, Syd keep up the good videos. 😁👍
Nice Tevas, Syd
Congratulations on 100K. Love to watch you guys!
Y’all are the best! I used your tip for mounting tubeless tires without a compressor and it works like a charm! Thanks for the tips!
Great videos with awesome mtb maintenance tips! but Syd, you make the videos so entertaining with your comments and reactions!! Keep the videos coming!!
cheers from Brazil!
Many congratulations and more importantly thanks for all your top advice,.
The channel is amazing guys. I'm not surprised in the slightest, and you deserve the success.
I effing love your channel Syd!
Good Job!!! I have never had to do this, but I have had to true a wheel.
Dooooood! I fixed my bike with the help of your channel! And after that a ton of more fixing!
P.s. spoke nipple..heh..
So, I was watching another channel, and the guy there was building a bike. I thought to myself, I must not be subscribed to this channel. It turns out I was, but not getting notifications. Anyway, the activity on the other channel gave me withdrawal symptoms from, " Sid Fixes Bikes", videos. I've always used a cable tie on the rear triangle to true a wheel. I probably need a truing stand after going more than 50 years without one, (including complete wheel builds).
I did a stupid on my ebike and broke some spokes. I have the hub motor, torque arm, and long fenders to remove/work around. So I run tubes. I can deflate the tube and pull everything to one side and change a spoke on the bike with my road repair kit. I use the same spoke wrench you do. If I'm working on the bike without flipping it, I use the old spoke to hold the new spoke nipple so I can get the screwdriver on it in place and remove the old spoke.
I love this channel.
word has it you don't let the spoke spin... ;-) Congrats guys.
Very nice video, greetings from your fan in Argentina!!!
awesomeeeeee Syd !!!!
You two are awesome and your videos are amazing
I had 2 that the heads broke off, but the 'J' bend was still able to hook into the hole. I twisted wire around it at the cross over point of another spoke nearest the hub. A zip tie would probably worked as well.
I rode over 20km with the 2 'fixed' that way. The replacement job required undoing several other spokes to weave the new ones in.
Thanks for this but, am about to venture on long bike packing trip. I am wondering if you could take this to another level and show how to fix or replace a spoke in the field. I have never broke a spoke or had to true so this would be a great value to me. Thanks
Yay your fix videos are my favorite! So freaking approachable
Congrats on 100k, guys!
I've been following you since forever, but this channel has helped me TONS. Haven't taken my bike to the shop in a while, except for suspension service.
The format is great and the information is great.
Great job, keep it up. 🤘
Great job, as always! Congrats on 100K
y'all did it the hard way
When performing work like this, I ALWAYS clean the wheel. Rag on the cassette & greasy bits to remove the gunk, then a thorough wash of everything else with appropriate soap & water. That way you aren't dealing with grime while repairing, it's easier to spot any other issues that may be present, and installing, seating and sealing a tubeless tire is WAY easier when it doesn't have dirt everywhere.
Bike Mechanic: "When you go to the dentist, do you brush your teeth first?" This is the argument for washing a bike prior to doing more than just basic maintenance.
Review @3:24
Congrats Congrats Congrats on hitting 100K!! You guys have earned it, keep the vids coming :)
I guess if you think of it as a nut on a bolt, the direction makes sense. It's confusing because looking at it from the "bolt" side you would usually turn the bolt.
Yeah, it makes sense based on physics, but it's confusing in real life!
Congratulations 🎆 love from India 😍😇
Woohoo 100k! Congrats, guys :)
I broke a spoke last night...then flatted and smashed my rim. Will probably just buy a new wheel. Probably should have checked the tension on my spokes... oops. Was just bunny hopping over some rocks and pop!
Dang, that's the worst!
@@sydfixesbikes Well, it was probably on me, I haven't tightened my spokes. I was surprised at how much I damaged the rim. I think I broke the spoke right at the nipple and it immediately punctured my rim tape.
Another way to apply more torque when using two wrenches is to position them in a vee shape and use both hands to squeeze the vee shut.
When removing a cassette I always use the plastic thing the the cassette was mounted on when new. That makes it easier to remount since all of the splines will be aligned. Not a problem with expensive one piece cassettes but many have the cogs separate and with spacers between the cogs. I prefer straight pull spoke hubs so you don't have to remove the cassette and rotor to replace a spoke. I also have some electrical tape around the seatpost to tape the spoke to another to keep it from causing more damage.
Congratulations on your 100k subssss 👻👻🤩
Congrats on the success of the channel. After bicycle repair you could do dance lessons.😁😁 Take care, Al
Nice job
I am not running tubeless so I just 'patch' the rim tape, rather than pull it all. About an 8 inch strip. My rim tape is just to protect the tube.
Hey don't forget sealant in that tire there guys 😉 I'm sure you didn't but you didn't mention it. Y'all are awesome!
I was like, Syd, valve, THE valve Syd! Heheh Awesome video as always!
Mostly because I am cheap and/or lazy...could one "patch" the rim tape with an additional strip of tape? If I were to do this, I would got one spoke past on either side of the nipple that broke the tape. At any rate, love your channels!!
Not advisable for tubless.
You can, but what we've found usually happens is that the tape doesn't stick well because of the sealant that was on it. And even if you can get it to stick, the air seems to find a way under the tape... So, possible but not advised.
@@sydfixesbikes I figured it wouldn't work, but had to ask. I am sure I am not the only one thinking this either. Thanks!
I recently had to do this the day before a race. I had to poke a hole in the rim tape for a new nipple that broke. Then cleaned the existing tape with alcohol and put another layer of rim tape. It made the tire a little harder to install but worked great.
This is one of the break down which I have faced
Love this channel. All the fumbling and wheel tango feels familiar. And remembering someone’s wise words after things just wont progress as I expected. Good no pressure home mechanic vibes 👊🏻
Found your channel this week while I’m in quarantine 😞. Unfortunately I don’t know if I’ll get back out riding this year (I am a fair weather rider) or not.
Where do you draw the line at replacing the hoop?
Eg. that flat spot has weakened the rim, and you don't want to taco it on an important race...
Usually can't do much about localized bending, dents. Radial slams cannot really be "trued" out...(I mean, maybe, but you're stressing the spokes way too much if you try that, will probably just break a spoke nipple also). So if you have a radial wobble it'll be a miracle if you fix it. If you take it on a road, fast, and notice it's kinda jumping you up & down that's a good indicator, without even looking at the wheel. As always, if you can live with it, cool...if not, buy a new one.
🤩🥳🥰 love this channel you’ve helped me so much. Maintenance is a huge deal with an eBike because I’m riding so much more so thank you!
Even tape back over old dried in sealant id be abit concerned about that for breaking loose on the trail
Cats ! .... where are the cats !? Can't have too much cats. More cats !
Cool vid, really helpful on the importance of being prepared. Did you put sealant in the wheel?
Yup
I always put my sealant in the tire.
Congratulations on your channel growth!
Also, can we talk about that wheel for a minute? 🤣
Okay, so...not as funny as I thought?
I haven't ridden my bike in a couple of months because of monsoon here in india and now when I checked my cycle the gear wires,brake wires are really lose,any help?
What brand of bike tools do you use?
Most of them are Feedback Sports (links in description)
Think it's time for a wheel holder great vid tho thanks
Hello, I love your work but can you do some more videos about sram and roxshock pls?? congrats for 100k btw
After a few rides, I notice that there are 3 or 4 loose spokes, like rattly loose. Should I put some loc-title on them before re-tightening?
Yeah, probably a good idea. You might also need to get your wheel retensioned by a pro if it keeps happening over and over.
No, LocTite will only mask your problem. Loose nipples are bad, but loose spokes are worse. Loose spokes or those with tension too low fatigue quickly and fail. Loose spokes also lead to looser nipples. Low tension also causes rim cracks, leading to additional premature failure problems. (That said, Linseed oil is an ideal thread lubricant because it dries and acts as a future thread locker. And yes, spoke threads need lube.)
You need to have your wheel retensioned by a qualified wheel builder who uses a tension meter. Now if your wheel is damaged enough, that may be the cause of your loose spokes. But no way to tell over the interwebs. Someone who knows what they're doing need to evaluate your wheel and suggest a solution.
Good luck.
Thank
Hey syd i had a cuestion im getting an old rochrider st 100 3x7 from my friend but i waned to know if i could change the amount of shifts if i replace the shifter and keep the derieur that is on there and make it an 1x8 (sorry my english is very bad)
To change the number of gears you need to replace the shifter, derailleur, cassette and chain. Good luck!
@@sydfixesbikes okay thank you
Why did it break?
Usually fatigue. Could be due to damage, of the chain variety being very common on the right side. If your chain ever goes over the large cog and into the spokes and you fail to notice fast enough and you apply some pedal pressure, your chain will score your spokes. This scoring causes a "stress riser" and will lead to premature fatigue failure. This is actually the best scenario. (Best to replace all of the scored spokes before they fail. Or if you're cheap, then simply grind off the damaged area and make it smooth without removing any excess material. This SHOULD extend the life of the spokes.)
If you have no external damage, then spoke failure may indicate the end of life of the wheel. The LBS rule is you replace the first broken spoke and see how things go. You ALWAYS warn the customer that they may break a second (or third) spoke in the first five minutes. You cannot really know until you try. If you're lucky, it was an aberration and you get more life out of the wheel. (This is not true of broken nipples, especially alloy. Alloy fail when used with tubeless sealant and should be replaced.)
If more spokes break, then the wheel's telling you "I'm done."
Spokes and rims fatigue much faster when a wheel it built with low tensions. Loosening spokes is a tell-tale sign of low wheel tension (usually on the non drive side). If not remedied (brought up to proper tension), loose spokes will quickly fail. Ironically it's the "looser" spokes that fail, which is pretty counterintuitive. Rim cracks result as well. (Bill Mould has an excellent in-depth discussion of rim fatigue failure as well as nipple/rim interface issues that also cause premature rim failure.)
Best way to achieve proper tension? A tension meter. I'm SO glad I'm now using one with all wheel builds and repairs. Shoulda made the investment 30 years ago instead of 10!
PS "Thicker" spokes don't build stronger or better wheels. Counterintuitively, "thinner" spokes do! Butted spokes are not used for weight savings, but rather to build higher-quality wheels. Elasticity in a spoke is your friend and butted spokes are more elastic.
Just a bit of advice if you don't have it it true and tension to buy a mechanic all the same tension overtime your spokes if they're all different tensions when you're riding they can blow at time-to-time
Is it required to remove the tire to remove a spoke? Can't you just insert the new spoke and just tighten it to the nipple?
100,000 wow, I was thinking you was pregnant lol
Off topic really enjoyed your recent race videos well done to the older riders. What is the head unit you both use. Do you have a video on it.
Keep up the good work
Thanks David
It's the Stages Dash. We have a link to it on the description of our Syd and Macky videos!
It is usually possible to replace the nipple through the valve hole (like with the full UST rims). This saves replacing the tubeless tape (if it does not need a replacement) but does not save much nerves :)
this is why i have tubes with sealant
Do you work at REI ?
Why not thread the broken spoke out of the nipple to get it out of the way for the ride home?
That tends to be hard to do, but even if you can, you'll often lose the spoke in the wheel and it's a pain to get back out!
Ugh, a universal spoke wrench. I hate those, even though I have a few. Best thing I ever did was buy individual wrenches for the sizes I need.
What do u do if the spoke breaks at the nipple??
Replace both!
@@sydfixesbikes I actually never even thought of that 🤣🤣!! Keep up the great work and thanks
I broke an outside spoke on a front 26x4 rim, I didn't have a extra spoke, so I visited my local shop. I dismounted half of the tire to expose the rim tape, the broken spoke didn't really mess up the balance. I was thinking the bill would be a few dollars, the spoke was about $2.00 and I was charged $37.00 for labor. I feel like a idiot.