Just now I was pulling into a parking lot and my car started shaking violently in the front all the way until I came to a stop. Then as I tried to proceed to a park it started shaking again to the point I can’t even drive around a parking lot. What the hell is going on with my car and If it stops is it safe to drive?!
The tow companies love me. I’ve been had the car towed many times because of defective fuel pumps. I’m tired of it. I don’t make enough money to have a decent car and it’s very sad and frustrating.
Man, you're a GENIUS! This is me and my Camry 1996. Driving down the interstate at 70 mph and she stalls on me! She also stalls on my when I'm at the traffic light. I changed my fuel filter & done a fuel injection cleanup two days ago. I just had the EGR valve replacement done today. If she stalls again, it's gotta be fuel pressure.
A floating fuel guage can be another symptom. If the fuel guage is slow to react to fill ups and the needle doesn't move immediately, this could be a pump issue.
Your videos are so informative! I've had the knowledge equivalent of a 1st year auto mechanic for about 10 years so I understand how all these systems work. But unfortunately it's been about 10 years since I've last had to work on a vehicle this much on my own 😅 your videos are fantastic resources to refresh my brain, I'm so thankful!
Thanks for the info. Listing the symptoms helped me figure out why my car wouldn’t start. The issue I was having was my car would try to start but it wouldn’t kick over. This video was quite helpful. 👍🏽
My car symptoms are it will not start after I have stopped unless I wait 30 to 40 minutes for it to cool down. I’ve had the fuel pump replaced twice and it still is a problem now my fuel indicator light will not work properly and this video shares with me I’ll probably get stranded in the middle of an intersection while I’m trying to drive.I don’t wanna die with this car as problem. I’d rather die a different way thank you.
That's terrifying and oh so dangerous when it stops in traffic. A mechanic once told me that he had no way of checking since everything seemed to have been working fine and I'd just have to wait and see if it happened again. The worst type of advice.
This happened to me yesterday. They said it could be the starter, but the symptoms are exactly this, without the engine light. Was only going to change the filter, but i think now I'm just going to do both. Just in case.
when youre car starts to mis fire when cranking. is one sign of the fuel pump going out. loss of power just like the video. i started my car let it idle.. and luckily in my driveway it sputtered and stalled out everytime i cranked and no more noise from fuel pump so.
Hardly worth replacing the filter without the pump . The truth is if the filter is clogged it would have harm the efficacy of the gas pump . Hence it would be wise to change both .
I'm having the exact symptom on my 30 year old car right now. Since my car is OBD1 it was hard to diagnose from the code on the dash board. Thanks for the tip.
If it cranks and won’t start ,to get you where you are going get somebody to hit the bottom of the gas tank with a block of wood or something hard while you crank it and most of the time it will start the fuel pump
I have to park my car for some minutes for it to cool down before it can move again. I was told it was a bad fuel pump symptoms. I replaced the pump completely and everything was ok but for only some few hours and the same issue is back again. Though I didn't buy a brand new fuel pump. Perhaps I still needs to change the motto itself.
What about noise? Not that one we hear at first but annoying low pitch noise while engine is working. Before that I never heard from pump anything but now it became clear and quite loud...
I recently just changed my fuel pump on my 2004 Honda Accord LX, I was headed to work, when I went up an incline & my car suddenly had loss of power. I was wondering if the fuel pump would have something to do with that?
Thank you. I put on a new fuel pump rated at 4 bar/60 psi, and a new fuel filter. Measured pressure at the fuel rail and its 50 psi! I searched for info on what it is supposed to be on the 2005 car Opel Tigra Twintop and engine Ecotec Z14XE(P?) The regulator is a part of the "lid" of the filter and I can't find it for sale alone or as part of a fuel pump. Ideas please-!😮
Thank you for the video. I changed my fuel pump on my 2002 Mercury Mountaineer (MM) a few months ago. My check engine light is back on with a code 305 misfire and code 171. Also, I noticed while sitting at a stoplight/sign my MM has been shaking/vibrating often. Could the problem be the fuel injectors? I have never checked, cleaned, nor replaced the injectors, since I bought my MM in 2001.
Definitely my old fuel pump is very tired...luckily i made it back home...unfortunately its a big job in my chevy truck,but i took off the road recently to restore it anyway...
What you omitted to explain is: do ALL these symptoms happen together or you can only experience ONE of those? I'm asking because I recently replaced pump, filter and accumulator and I experience ONLY the long start cranking and none of the other symptoms. after that the car runs great
In addition, I noticed that after changing the fuel pump my mileage improved from 275 to 430 per fill up, now it's down to maybe 260 per fill up. Again, can this be the injectors?
My 96 plymouth breeze, stalls at idle at traffic lights or drive thru sometimes when im making a slow turn. But if the car is moving at higher rpm i have never had it stall. Already went through my basics, cleaned all my grounds check all my connectors, checked my spark plugs cleaned and checked gap. Scanned for codes but have none. Even tried changing tpms and IAC valve with known good ones off my other breeze but still have it stall. Also mainly stalls after warmed up. Could it be a bad fuel pump ?
The B15 Sentra (02-06) is notorious for crank but no start issue. The fix is replacing the fuel pump with an aftermarket one because the oem one will eventually cause the same issue.
I have a 2016 Corolla in Ghana, which I started using January this year. Suddenly the engine doesn't start on the first cranking when the weather is warm especially after parking it for more than an hour. I have no problem starting the car around 6AM or when the weather is cold. I have changed oil, oil filter, spark plugs all within this month but the problem persists. Please suggest possible causes. Thanks.
i had this with a 2001 audi a3. it was a 1.6 petrol. It was the only car ive ever seen that ran better when it was cold. when it warmed up it became sluggish
A friend of mine has a 1997 Oldsmobile regency 113,000 miles , we replaced the fuel filter, we replaced spark plugs and wires . But they tested the fuel pressure, they said it seems ok , but every so often, it seems as tho the car isn't getting enough gas, and it stumbles, just like it is gonna stop , she said she pushed gas pedal to give it gas, then it was ok . No check engine light comes on .
Fuel filter possibly.. I strongly recommend putting in a new filter before/ with a fuel pump. An inexpensive part, easily installed and could be the reason for fuel issues in the first place.
@@Jerk_ANC i found out eventually was it was , this time i was lucky enough to have the check engine light come on and it started flashing , i told my friend to park it cause didn't want it getting worse, got it to the shop , and yes they also got a code like i did , misfire cylinder # 3 they pulled # 3 spark plug and # 3 coil pack , and the tech found the spark plug bad and spark plug wire was shot and coil pack , so it was either a promblem from coil pack to spark plug , or vise versa , they put a new spark plug in with a new coil pack , and installed all new wires , ran great .
The fuel pump in my car crapped out this morning. Luckily my car stalled just before an intersection at the stop line. It has #3 in the video. The check engine light did not show up.
I have a very quiet sound of trickling liquid when I'm cranking my ford ranger. Haven't checked codes yet, but the truck won't hold its start even after revving it for a bit. There are no fluids coming out anywhere nor are there any fuel smells, and the trickling noise stops as soon as the engine does. Could the trickling sound be a symptom of bad fuel pump?
EasyAutoFix...my 2011 Jeep Wrangler JK starts fine when it is cold but when I drive it and it warms up and I turn it off..it takes about 15 minutes and multiple starts for it to crank. No check engine light. Could this be a symptom of a bad fuel pump....??? Thank you.
How i found out that my fuel pump was going. Was i would be driving either on the freeway or city driving the problem would occur. I would be driving along when all of a sudden the gas pedal would become unresponsive no matter how far you put it to the floor it wouldn't move the truck, all it it would do would rev the truck up but the truck wouldn't move it would stall out or be chugging then stall out. So I would pull over come to a stop put it back it park turn the key off then turn it back on start the truck then drive away. Then it might do it again or maybe not at all. The most times it happened in a row was two times. But it got to the point where the fuel pump sounded like you were shaking a bottle full of rocks. Wasn't long after I dropped the tank bought a new fuel pump installed it and I haven't had a problem since then. My new problem is my sending unit that controls the guage which attaches to the fuel pump. I should have just bought a whole new assembly.
@@BigstickNick oh man. I'm sorry you had to do that! I'm hoping it doesn't come to that for me! My problems with my car started right after I stopped to get gas, about 3 weeks ago. I got on the highway right after, and after a few minutes, my car started to die, and I pulled to the side of the highway. Finally got my car started again, it was in limp mode, but I did barely make it home. I thought I had gotten bad/contaminated gas, so I've run several fuel system cleaners through my gas tank, that didn't help. I have an OBD Scanner, that was throwing the codes for MAF sensor, and low heater circuit for both bank 1 and bank 2, all 4 O2 circuits. I tried cleaning my MAF sensor, didn't help. I replaced my MAF, didn't help. I got all 6 spark plugs replaced, because all 6 were burned to a crisp. And I got a new battery because my battery was bad, didn't help. It would cost around $700 for all for OEM sensors for all four of the sensors to be replaced for both banks, plus a large labor cost. I'm really hoping that it doesn't come to that, because that's too much. I've checked for leaks, checked connections, checked so many things. I have a 2006 Lexus GS 300, that I bought when I was working at a dealership several years ago, it's been a great car with no problems until now.
@@newsing33 yeah, I had an Audi S5…my problem was, I kept reading about how places didn’t really know what was wrong, so they would throw parts at it. Apparently it cost $800 for a place to remove the supercharger, just to get to the problem. Yeah, my Audi did great until 103,000 miles. Once it got to 103,001…it gave me problems *moment of silence * 😌
@@BigstickNick yes, a lot of these mechanics shops want to rip you off with crazy prices just to look at your car! I'm not falling for that. And yes, that seems to be the average, once you hit 100,000 miles or a little more on your car, here come the major problems. This is so stressful! 😢
Like always great video . Bro would you tell me something about what could be wrong with my car. I have 2014 A4 b8.5 1.8 tfsi. In the summer when i start the car the rpm was like 1100 around 40 sec and go down to 750 , perfect. Since maybe two months it's sometimes like 1200 and slowly go down in 10 sec it's like 850 rpm . Sometimes it's like start 1100 and after 20 sec go down to 850. After i drove little bit and stop , go to neutral it's normal 750 RPM. Is it something wrong or nothing to worry .
Thank you! I appreciate the support. Now this can be multiple reasons.I would say if your car has no check engine light, it could be due to a dirty throttle body. When the ecm senses a lack of air flow, it opens up the throttle plate a bit more to compensate for it. This could be the reason why it’s idle is a bit higher.
I’m pretty sure my Jeep is on the low end of almost failing . Stalls, I hear a pop from the fuel pump whether the car is on or off, having to pump the gas pump and it still doesn’t go, but the rpm’s increase.
@@theenzoferrari458 what I meant is I can be in gaining speed but my rpms wouldn’t decrease as if I’m not increasing gears. But I found my problem I have a bad cat
Can this cause the ignition not to turn over at all? We thought possibly a battery or other electrical issue but a scan detected no electrical problems. I used a diagnostic scanner which gave me P0300 codes but just went through hell and back replacing all the ignition coils and spark plugs a month ago =/ After replacing the battery, it can start but shakes hard and dies =(
What if the engine will not start unless the throttle is applied? As long as the throttle is applied the engine runs smoothly but as soon as you let off the throttle RPMs drop and the engine sputters until it dies. The fuel pump whines continually as to where previously it did not.
My ford fiesta is not starting with the self but when i push it and start it with leaving in gear and leaves the cluth it gets start. And my battery is fine and wiring is also check please help me.
My 2018 VW Tiguan keeps dying while im driving. It happens almost every day. The restart takes a few tires: cranks but no start. Then it starts up with no codes. And then the engine dies again randomly the next day.
Today my truck started up and ran just fine to work. Almost immediately after I left work I noticed it didn’t wanna go when I went to give it some gas. Stayed running just didn’t wanna go. I changed the filter just now and it’s still doing it. Fuel pump? Asking because I’m not a mechanic just know the basic stuff about trucks and cars.
i’d do the pump aswell i’m doing mine becuase the fliter on fuel pump it’s self is clogged just enough dirt over time it ran fine to work and left work went shit
Use a fuel pressure tester with a bypass and a clear tube or container that maintains the pressure in the system. If you see bubbles you have a winding in one of the armatures going bad. When I say bubbles I mean big ones. There will be tiny bubbles that's normal. The bubbles will be like big pockets in the stream. You can see this with a Low Amp Inductive Pickup on a scope. There is a math formula available with Snap-On from the MODIS era that will allow you to calculate the life of the pump by the hour. Essentially you can use it to tell how long any pump or solenoid has within a few days to a couple of weeks. This includes alternators. The O-scope is still your best friend. In OEM diagnostic mode on newer scan tools the graph mode is equal to an o-scope only it's better because you are working with the full speed sample rate of the ECM/PCM. This applies to cars 07-08 and newer. The math equation works the same. It still works to the day.
If my truck sits for a while, will fire fine the first time, every time, and run with 0 issues or any symptoms. However, if I stop, and turn it off, it will not fire until "x" amount of time goes by. Once whatever has happened, it will start. Like, never will it not start in the morning, or at work. Both breaks starts fine. If I stop for gas or to go in a store on the way home, stuck. For a while. Eventually, it will start. It's a pattern, and consistent. Always fires after it's been sitting for a while. Anybody have any ideas?
@@fabbie2201 I have not. About 2 weeks ago, my battery died. Upon replacing the battery, the issue was fixed. No problems whatsoever. Until, I drove enough for the computer to detect the issue. Leading me to believe it's not a failing part, but the computer telling it not to start due to some issue. Still trying to locate it
My Lancer gli 4g15 engine,after starting,when the temp reached the operating temp the radiator fan start running 5sec.and stop after 7 sec.will keep running 5sec run and stop 7sec and continue on and on like this.may I know if this is normal? Thank you sir.
Hello I'm having P0091 and P00C9 on my 2013 impala. Any ideas? Fuel pump seems fine. Replaced fuel control module and fuel pressure regulator. Any other ideas? Also engine power reduced
Ok so I have to give mine gas to start, it will turn over and you can hear the engine trying to turn on but it wont start unless u give it gas and sometimes it does once started or if u try to drive it right after starting and I have to turn it off and do it again. Any info???
My 2006 Chrysler 300c 5.7 turned off on a stop in an intersection won’t start I check if I can hear the fuel pump at the gas cap and yes I can hear it had it towed home next day it started but very very rough idle what can it be
Got a prblm, p0093 fuel leak detected...loose power when I accelerate...does this fuel pump in the tank to be considered...cause injectors were good... pressure regulator also...what could be the prb
I have a ford focus 2008 I thought it was the pump but it wasn't it's cranks but doesn't start starter is good there's spark fuel air inertia switch isn't tripped I have no idea what the he'll is going on
Just now I was pulling into a parking lot and my car started shaking violently in the front all the way until I came to a stop. Then as I tried to proceed to a park it started shaking again to the point I can’t even drive around a parking lot. What the hell is going on with my car and If it stops is it safe to drive?!
I am thinking it was my starter or starter relay. Now I am thinking it’s the fuel pump tbh. My gas burns faster, the car won’t start after cranking it. When accelerating it jerks. But idk still could be the starter
Now see my thing is I don't know if I am having a problem with the ignition switch or if my problem is with a fuel pump because I would be able to start it every now and then sometimes it'll stall and then once I finally get it going I'll start driving and while I'm driving and I'll go to slow down or stop or even increase in speed the card would just die and then just turn back on suddenly or sometimes mutual and turn it back on myself but I know it has a history of ignition switch problems my car is a Volkswagen Jetta 2010 I'm getting a new fuel pump on Saturday which I guess it wouldn't hurt cuz I know it's rusted so I will be able to update
I have 2012 terrain ...very strong smell of gas all of a sudden! I bought the car worh just over 200,000 km and the check engine was on. Right from beginning it intermittently start sputtering like it's going to stall but hasn't yet. Is this my fuel pump?
Many auto parts stores offer free code readings. I also have a GM and it’s nothing but issue after issue. But definitely get codes read. If you don’t know a place that offers it, you can buy one on Amazon for cheap.
It could be the pcv. If it's stuck open, and could throw the air to fuel ratio outta wack. Also is the smell of gas all the time, or only when you fill up? Try filling your tank to 3/4 of the way. Also the pcv can fail for a long time before it will kill the fuel pump too.
I hope someone can help me here. I have a 2002 envoy that started getting worse gas mileage about a year ago. A few days ago I was driving out on the hiway at 55 mph when it suddenly began to sputter and lose power, which had never happened before. It never completely shut off and after rolling for a ways I pulled over off the road thinking I was out of gas, bit according to my gauge I was not out of gas but the gas light was on. Someone helped me get a little gas and it cranked right up after sitting for 30 minutes and I drive a mile to a gas station and put a few gallons of gas in it thinking that would take care of the problem. But after driving around 3 miles it began sputtering again and one power. I pulled over again and called my brother who told me to sit for a few minutes and try it again. I did and it cranked right up with no hesitation. And I drove 3 or 4 more miles before it happened again. It never had a problem cranking even when I thought it was out of gas which was strange because normally when you run out it takes a few seconds to crank but this was not the case. If I pressed on the gas pedal it would lose power. But when idling it was running fine with no sputtering. I finally made it home and the fuel filter was replaced and it seemed to be fine until I drove it the next day around 10 miles and it began sputtering and slowing down again so I pulled over and shut it off and sat for a few minutes and cranked it back up with no hesitation and drove around 8 miles with no problem after taking thee gas cap off. But the last 2 miles it Bagan sputtering again only thus time it was much worse and would not idle as it had been doing before. Also this time I got the message on the dashboard to shut off engine which had not happened either. I managed to make it home and I don't know what to do. I have little resources and money and need help diagnosing the problem. Thank you
I think the pump is failing, which can occur in stages. The computer told you to shut off engine because multiple misfires were being detected due to lack of fuel pressure. That's my guess. Did you scan it and get any codes?
So my car turns on good no problem but sometimes when I’m driving slow it just looses alll power completely but the car still on , then I turn it off and on and it works be keep happening ,but when im on freeway it don’t happen
Mi car has acceleration problems only in the afternoon when the car is been on the sun for few hours,I press the gas pedal and it runs very slow,after 10 minutes it works normal,I don’t know if it might be the fuel pump,the check engine light has popped some times but not always,the code is p0157 and I have installed a new catalytic converter,new oxygen sensor on that bank,no intake leaks,don’t have exhaust leaks,and I don’t know if it might be bad fuel pressure,if you guys could help me I would appreciate it
Fuel Pressure Gauge Kit
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OBD2 Scanner: amzn.to/3PHRplS
Just now I was pulling into a parking lot and my car started shaking violently in the front all the way until I came to a stop. Then as I tried to proceed to a park it started shaking again to the point I can’t even drive around a parking lot. What the hell is going on with my car and If it stops is it safe to drive?!
Yes, correct after one month we can change the pump also😂
His first lines doesn’t make sense “I hope you’re having an exceptional day”. If I were don’t think I’d be here sir.
🤣
😂
😂😂 brother you made my day
The tow companies love me. I’ve been had the car towed many times because of defective fuel pumps. I’m tired of it. I don’t make enough money to have a decent car and it’s very sad and frustrating.
Man, you're a GENIUS! This is me and my Camry 1996. Driving down the interstate at 70 mph and she stalls on me! She also stalls on my when I'm at the traffic light. I changed my fuel filter & done a fuel injection cleanup two days ago. I just had the EGR valve replacement done today. If she stalls again, it's gotta be fuel pressure.
A floating fuel guage can be another symptom. If the fuel guage is slow to react to fill ups and the needle doesn't move immediately, this could be a pump issue.
OH MY GOOOOOOOOD! Thank you!!!! I done changed my spark plugs, my mass speed sensor and vent! You saying this definitely helped me out!
Your videos are so informative! I've had the knowledge equivalent of a 1st year auto mechanic for about 10 years so I understand how all these systems work. But unfortunately it's been about 10 years since I've last had to work on a vehicle this much on my own 😅 your videos are fantastic resources to refresh my brain, I'm so thankful!
I’m driving a 98 forester and been having problems and definitely for sure it’s the fuel pump. Taking it in on Monday fingers crossed
Thanks for the info. Listing the symptoms helped me figure out why my car wouldn’t start. The issue I was having was my car would try to start but it wouldn’t kick over. This video was quite helpful. 👍🏽
My car doing the same thing now an I’m confused about what to do now
Still researching 😟😟😟
Having the same problem now
My car symptoms are it will not start after I have stopped unless I wait 30 to 40 minutes for it to cool down. I’ve had the fuel pump replaced twice and it still is a problem now my fuel indicator light will not work properly and this video shares with me I’ll probably get stranded in the middle of an intersection while I’m trying to drive.I don’t wanna die with this car as problem. I’d rather die a different way thank you.
That's terrifying and oh so dangerous when it stops in traffic. A mechanic once told me that he had no way of checking since everything seemed to have been working fine and I'd just have to wait and see if it happened again. The worst type of advice.
Spent a whole lot because everywhere I take it in the mechanics say it’s fine and then it still doesn’t start from time to time
This happened to me yesterday. They said it could be the starter, but the symptoms are exactly this, without the engine light. Was only going to change the filter, but i think now I'm just going to do both. Just in case.
same situation as you
when youre car starts to mis fire when cranking. is one sign of the fuel pump going out. loss of power just like the video. i started my car let it idle.. and luckily in my driveway it sputtered and stalled out everytime i cranked and no more noise from fuel pump so.
Then that's not a mechanic. He's a part replacer
Also happened to me today, exactly the same symptoms as you described, hope it will be working fine again, thank you a lot for the informations
Replacing the fuel filter before replacing the pump may help also.
Hardly worth replacing the filter without the pump . The truth is if the filter is clogged it would have harm the efficacy of the gas pump . Hence it would be wise to change both .
except most vehicles after 2010 are pump/filter package
Where is the fuel filter located
@@carloscardenas7850 ,,, In the gas tank.
@@carloscardenas7850 ,,, Some cars have an additional fuel filter in the engine bay near the fuel lines on the injectors.
Good as usual. honestly. I started to " give the like" before start the video, I know it will be good.
I'm having the exact symptom on my 30 year old car right now. Since my car is OBD1 it was hard to diagnose from the code on the dash board. Thanks for the tip.
If it cranks and won’t start ,to get you where you are going get somebody to hit the bottom of the gas tank with a block of wood or something hard while you crank it and most of the time it will start the fuel pump
I'm changing my fuel pump ASAP. I'm seeing these symptoms
I have to park my car for some minutes for it to cool down before it can move again.
I was told it was a bad fuel pump symptoms. I replaced the pump completely and everything was ok but for only some few hours and the same issue is back again.
Though I didn't buy a brand new fuel pump.
Perhaps I still needs to change the motto itself.
What about noise? Not that one we hear at first but annoying low pitch noise while engine is working. Before that I never heard from pump anything but now it became clear and quite loud...
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. It was very useful and informative!
Thank you so much my car has been buggin and I haven’t been able to diagnose but now Ik what it is
simple explained and very well made
Very nice thank you!
I recently just changed my fuel pump on my 2004 Honda Accord LX, I was headed to work, when I went up an incline & my car suddenly had loss of power. I was wondering if the fuel pump would have something to do with that?
Very helpful video. Had the exact same problem. Thought it was a clutch issue. But this made a lot more sense. Thanks a lot.
You Made my day,at least now I know I have fuel pump issue ...😍
Great video bro, I'm struggling with the long crank on my mk5 1.6. For some reason it start first time when the weather is cold.🤔
Thank you. I put on a new fuel pump rated at 4 bar/60 psi, and a new fuel filter. Measured pressure at the fuel rail and its 50 psi! I searched for info on what it is supposed to be on the 2005 car Opel Tigra Twintop and engine Ecotec Z14XE(P?) The regulator is a part of the "lid" of the filter and I can't find it for sale alone or as part of a fuel pump. Ideas please-!😮
Thank you for the video. I changed my fuel pump on my 2002 Mercury Mountaineer (MM) a few months ago. My check engine light is back on with a code 305 misfire and code 171. Also, I noticed while sitting at a stoplight/sign my MM has been shaking/vibrating often. Could the problem be the fuel injectors? I have never checked, cleaned, nor replaced the injectors, since I bought my MM in 2001.
When’s the last time you did spark plugs?
Pcv replacement made my engine stop shaking when stopped
Definitely my old fuel pump is very tired...luckily i made it back home...unfortunately its a big job in my chevy truck,but i took off the road recently to restore it anyway...
What you omitted to explain is: do ALL these symptoms happen together or you can only experience ONE of those?
I'm asking because I recently replaced pump, filter and accumulator and I experience ONLY the long start cranking and none of the other symptoms. after that the car runs great
Good information. One thing to note if I’m watching this I’m not having an exceptional day. 😂
In addition, I noticed that after changing the fuel pump my mileage improved from 275 to 430 per fill up, now it's down to maybe 260 per fill up. Again, can this be the injectors?
What about excessive leaking? I dont think he mentioned it unless i missed it. I think my fuel pump is actually super effed lol.
Long crank before starting when cold. If a fuel pump is going would it operate better when a car was warm than cold?
My 96 plymouth breeze, stalls at idle at traffic lights or drive thru sometimes when im making a slow turn. But if the car is moving at higher rpm i have never had it stall. Already went through my basics, cleaned all my grounds check all my connectors, checked my spark plugs cleaned and checked gap. Scanned for codes but have none. Even tried changing tpms and IAC valve with known good ones off my other breeze but still have it stall. Also mainly stalls after warmed up. Could it be a bad fuel pump ?
Your video is very helpful, do you have a video on how to replace the fuel pump on a 2008 Mazda 3 Sedan?
What needs done since my "feul pump control module requested Mil illumination"- P069E was the diagnosis from auto zone on trax chevy
Excellent video.
Good video
The B15 Sentra (02-06) is notorious for crank but no start issue. The fix is replacing the fuel pump with an aftermarket one because the oem one will eventually cause the same issue.
My 09 civic gotta build pressure up before start its getting bad
I have a 2016 Corolla in Ghana, which I started using January this year. Suddenly the engine doesn't start on the first cranking when the weather is warm especially after parking it for more than an hour. I have no problem starting the car around 6AM or when the weather is cold. I have changed oil, oil filter, spark plugs all within this month but the problem persists. Please suggest possible causes. Thanks.
i had this with a 2001 audi a3. it was a 1.6 petrol. It was the only car ive ever seen that ran better when it was cold. when it warmed up it became sluggish
Have you fixed it cus I have same problem
A friend of mine has a 1997 Oldsmobile regency 113,000 miles , we replaced the fuel filter, we replaced spark plugs and wires . But they tested the fuel pressure, they said it seems ok , but every so often, it seems as tho the car isn't getting enough gas, and it stumbles, just like it is gonna stop , she said she pushed gas pedal to give it gas, then it was ok . No check engine light comes on .
Fuel filter possibly.. I strongly recommend putting in a new filter before/ with a fuel pump. An inexpensive part, easily installed and could be the reason for fuel issues in the first place.
@@Jerk_ANC i found out eventually was it was , this time i was lucky enough to have the check engine light come on and it started flashing , i told my friend to park it cause didn't want it getting worse, got it to the shop , and yes they also got a code like i did , misfire cylinder # 3 they pulled # 3 spark plug and # 3 coil pack , and the tech found the spark plug bad and spark plug wire was shot and coil pack , so it was either a promblem from coil pack to spark plug , or vise versa , they put a new spark plug in with a new coil pack , and installed all new wires , ran great .
The fuel pump in my car crapped out this morning. Luckily my car stalled just before an intersection at the stop line. It has #3 in the video. The check engine light did not show up.
Having this same exact problem but not sure if it’s the fuel filter or the actual fuel pump
I have a very quiet sound of trickling liquid when I'm cranking my ford ranger. Haven't checked codes yet, but the truck won't hold its start even after revving it for a bit. There are no fluids coming out anywhere nor are there any fuel smells, and the trickling noise stops as soon as the engine does. Could the trickling sound be a symptom of bad fuel pump?
Great simple video!
Can you tell me what should I be looking for that's keep killing my fuel pump...2012 DC 133k miles..change fuel pump 2x..but not the transfer side
Very informative
Thx my guy💯
Helpful video thanks 🙏 bro
EasyAutoFix...my 2011 Jeep Wrangler JK starts fine when it is cold but when
I drive it and it warms up and I turn it off..it takes about 15 minutes and multiple
starts for it to crank. No check engine light. Could this be a symptom of a bad
fuel pump....??? Thank you.
Yes
so the symptoms are the same as those for the fuel filter so when do we know which to change?
Thanks for the details in dept
How i found out that my fuel pump was going. Was i would be driving either on the freeway or city driving the problem would occur. I would be driving along when all of a sudden the gas pedal would become unresponsive no matter how far you put it to the floor it wouldn't move the truck, all it it would do would rev the truck up but the truck wouldn't move it would stall out or be chugging then stall out. So I would pull over come to a stop put it back it park turn the key off then turn it back on start the truck then drive away. Then it might do it again or maybe not at all. The most times it happened in a row was two times. But it got to the point where the fuel pump sounded like you were shaking a bottle full of rocks. Wasn't long after I dropped the tank bought a new fuel pump installed it and I haven't had a problem since then. My new problem is my sending unit that controls the guage which attaches to the fuel pump. I should have just bought a whole new assembly.
So what about a Rich condition with failing/faulty starts? I’m getting P0172 and O2 sensors. I’ve been seeing forums say it’s the fuel pump
I'm getting that too.
@@newsing33 I ended up getting a new car 😞
@@BigstickNick oh man. I'm sorry you had to do that! I'm hoping it doesn't come to that for me! My problems with my car started right after I stopped to get gas, about 3 weeks ago. I got on the highway right after, and after a few minutes, my car started to die, and I pulled to the side of the highway. Finally got my car started again, it was in limp mode, but I did barely make it home. I thought I had gotten bad/contaminated gas, so I've run several fuel system cleaners through my gas tank, that didn't help. I have an OBD Scanner, that was throwing the codes for MAF sensor, and low heater circuit for both bank 1 and bank 2, all 4 O2 circuits. I tried cleaning my MAF sensor, didn't help. I replaced my MAF, didn't help. I got all 6 spark plugs replaced, because all 6 were burned to a crisp. And I got a new battery because my battery was bad, didn't help. It would cost around $700 for all for OEM sensors for all four of the sensors to be replaced for both banks, plus a large labor cost. I'm really hoping that it doesn't come to that, because that's too much. I've checked for leaks, checked connections, checked so many things. I have a 2006 Lexus GS 300, that I bought when I was working at a dealership several years ago, it's been a great car with no problems until now.
@@newsing33 yeah, I had an Audi S5…my problem was, I kept reading about how places didn’t really know what was wrong, so they would throw parts at it. Apparently it cost $800 for a place to remove the supercharger, just to get to the problem.
Yeah, my Audi did great until 103,000 miles. Once it got to 103,001…it gave me problems *moment of silence * 😌
@@BigstickNick yes, a lot of these mechanics shops want to rip you off with crazy prices just to look at your car! I'm not falling for that. And yes, that seems to be the average, once you hit 100,000 miles or a little more on your car, here come the major problems. This is so stressful! 😢
Thanks for the video brother 👍
Sir I wan ask abit i just bought a new walbro fuel pump450lpj 3week gone cause back pressure issue ?
Are no codes normal for a bad fuel pump?
Like always great video . Bro would you tell me something about what could be wrong with my car. I have 2014 A4 b8.5 1.8 tfsi. In the summer when i start the car the rpm was like 1100 around 40 sec and go down to 750 , perfect. Since maybe two months it's sometimes like 1200 and slowly go down in 10 sec it's like 850 rpm . Sometimes it's like start 1100 and after 20 sec go down to 850. After i drove little bit and stop , go to neutral it's normal 750 RPM. Is it something wrong or nothing to worry .
Thank you! I appreciate the support. Now this can be multiple reasons.I would say if your car has no check engine light, it could be due to a dirty throttle body. When the ecm senses a lack of air flow, it opens up the throttle plate a bit more to compensate for it. This could be the reason why it’s idle is a bit higher.
@@easyautofix Thanx for responding. Now it's like 10° outside and problem is gone . I don't know why. but now it's like it should be .
I’m pretty sure my Jeep is on the low end of almost failing . Stalls, I hear a pop from the fuel pump whether the car is on or off, having to pump the gas pump and it still doesn’t go, but the rpm’s increase.
If the rpms increase its getting fuel and air. Your contradicting your statement.
@@theenzoferrari458 what I meant is I can be in gaining speed but my rpms wouldn’t decrease as if I’m not increasing gears. But I found my problem I have a bad cat
Can this cause the ignition not to turn over at all? We thought possibly a battery or other electrical issue but a scan detected no electrical problems. I used a diagnostic scanner which gave me P0300 codes but just went through hell and back replacing all the ignition coils and spark plugs a month ago =/ After replacing the battery, it can start but shakes hard and dies =(
could be the AC compressor i had the same problem
@@bajadan2769 Thank you! It ended up being the ignition coils. I just needed to replace all 4 with good ones and not faulty ones from Autozone =/
What if the engine will not start unless the throttle is applied? As long as the throttle is applied the engine runs smoothly but as soon as you let off the throttle RPMs drop and the engine sputters until it dies. The fuel pump whines continually as to where previously it did not.
I made a video on this. ruclips.net/video/10H-GBPCU2g/видео.html&ab_channel=EasyAutoFix
Will this cause code for fuel rail pressure sensor?
My ford fiesta is not starting with the self but when i push it and start it with leaving in gear and leaves the cluth it gets start. And my battery is fine and wiring is also check please help me.
My 2018 VW Tiguan keeps dying while im driving. It happens almost every day. The restart takes a few tires: cranks but no start. Then it starts up with no codes.
And then the engine dies again randomly the next day.
I have 2012 kia rio when i drive off in 1st and 2nd gear there is a slight jerk and moves well in the other gearsb what could be the problem
Today my truck started up and ran just fine to work. Almost immediately after I left work I noticed it didn’t wanna go when I went to give it some gas. Stayed running just didn’t wanna go. I changed the filter just now and it’s still doing it. Fuel pump? Asking because I’m not a mechanic just know the basic stuff about trucks and cars.
i’d do the pump aswell i’m doing mine becuase the fliter on fuel pump it’s self is clogged just enough dirt over time it ran fine to work and left work went shit
Could be spark plugs
Your my car hero
Use a fuel pressure tester with a bypass and a clear tube or container that maintains the pressure in the system. If you see bubbles you have a winding in one of the armatures going bad. When I say bubbles I mean big ones. There will be tiny bubbles that's normal. The bubbles will be like big pockets in the stream. You can see this with a Low Amp Inductive Pickup on a scope. There is a math formula available with Snap-On from the MODIS era that will allow you to calculate the life of the pump by the hour. Essentially you can use it to tell how long any pump or solenoid has within a few days to a couple of weeks. This includes alternators. The O-scope is still your best friend. In OEM diagnostic mode on newer scan tools the graph mode is equal to an o-scope only it's better because you are working with the full speed sample rate of the ECM/PCM. This applies to cars 07-08 and newer. The math equation works the same. It still works to the day.
didn't see any link to the description below for scanner?
Good job 👍🇯🇲😎
If my truck sits for a while, will fire fine the first time, every time, and run with 0 issues or any symptoms. However, if I stop, and turn it off, it will not fire until "x" amount of time goes by. Once whatever has happened, it will start. Like, never will it not start in the morning, or at work. Both breaks starts fine. If I stop for gas or to go in a store on the way home, stuck. For a while. Eventually, it will start. It's a pattern, and consistent. Always fires after it's been sitting for a while. Anybody have any ideas?
I have a truck that had this problem, the previous owner said that it was the coolant temperature sensor and a bad distributor.
Fuel pump or crank shaft position sensor
And distributor and etc sensorso. Yep
I thought i was the only one who has this issue. Have you found the solution?
@@fabbie2201 I have not. About 2 weeks ago, my battery died. Upon replacing the battery, the issue was fixed. No problems whatsoever. Until, I drove enough for the computer to detect the issue. Leading me to believe it's not a failing part, but the computer telling it not to start due to some issue. Still trying to locate it
My Lancer gli 4g15 engine,after starting,when the temp reached the operating temp the radiator fan start running 5sec.and stop after 7 sec.will keep running 5sec run and stop 7sec and continue on and on like this.may I know if this is normal? Thank you sir.
Car crank at start for 1st time in the morning. Found that, back seat Fuel pump damaged and gasoline sprinkles. Replaced.
Hello I'm having P0091 and P00C9 on my 2013 impala. Any ideas? Fuel pump seems fine. Replaced fuel control module and fuel pressure regulator. Any other ideas? Also engine power reduced
Ok so I have to give mine gas to start, it will turn over and you can hear the engine trying to turn on but it wont start unless u give it gas and sometimes it does once started or if u try to drive it right after starting and I have to turn it off and do it again. Any info???
Can it be use in tricycle?
How much?
زبردست
Can you do 2013 Ford Taurus limited my fuel pump is messed up
My 2006 Chrysler 300c 5.7 turned off on a stop in an intersection won’t start I check if I can hear the fuel pump at the gas cap and yes I can hear it had it towed home next day it started but very very rough idle what can it be
Got a prblm, p0093 fuel leak detected...loose power when I accelerate...does this fuel pump in the tank to be considered...cause injectors were good... pressure regulator also...what could be the prb
I have same issue. Thanks for explaining.
Happy to help
I have a ford focus 2008 I thought it was the pump but it wasn't it's cranks but doesn't start starter is good there's spark fuel air inertia switch isn't tripped I have no idea what the he'll is going on
Can failure of injector cause the same problem?
It reacts a bit differently. I have a video on this with more clarity. ruclips.net/video/1gZuQDT_pEA/видео.html&ab_channel=EasyAutoFix
I just replaced mines on 2001 tundra it work for a few days then it stop.when i knock on the tank then it kick in
Just now I was pulling into a parking lot and my car started shaking violently in the front all the way until I came to a stop. Then as I tried to proceed to a park it started shaking again to the point I can’t even drive around a parking lot. What the hell is going on with my car and If it stops is it safe to drive?!
I am thinking it was my starter or starter relay. Now I am thinking it’s the fuel pump tbh. My gas burns faster, the car won’t start after cranking it. When accelerating it jerks. But idk still could be the starter
My car turns off whe. I come to a stop and turns off sometimes so fuel pump can be the problem
Mine is doing the same now, it will crank immediately after . RPM also fluctuates on its own. Did you find a diagnosis?
Thanks
I appreciate you!
Now see my thing is I don't know if I am having a problem with the ignition switch or if my problem is with a fuel pump because I would be able to start it every now and then sometimes it'll stall and then once I finally get it going I'll start driving and while I'm driving and I'll go to slow down or stop or even increase in speed the card would just die and then just turn back on suddenly or sometimes mutual and turn it back on myself but I know it has a history of ignition switch problems my car is a Volkswagen Jetta 2010 I'm getting a new fuel pump on Saturday which I guess it wouldn't hurt cuz I know it's rusted so I will be able to update
i have same problems, can you please tell me what was the problem, i changed so many things 🤕
@@tahansr399did you ever find the problem? Having same thing happen to my car
I have 2012 terrain ...very strong smell of gas all of a sudden! I bought the car worh just over 200,000 km and the check engine was on. Right from beginning it intermittently start sputtering like it's going to stall but hasn't yet. Is this my fuel pump?
Many auto parts stores offer free code readings. I also have a GM and it’s nothing but issue after issue. But definitely get codes read. If you don’t know a place that offers it, you can buy one on Amazon for cheap.
It could be the pcv. If it's stuck open, and could throw the air to fuel ratio outta wack. Also is the smell of gas all the time, or only when you fill up? Try filling your tank to 3/4 of the way. Also the pcv can fail for a long time before it will kill the fuel pump too.
Where is the link in the description
If you have a weak fuel pump it will loose pressure in line after set up.
I hope someone can help me here. I have a 2002 envoy that started getting worse gas mileage about a year ago. A few days ago I was driving out on the hiway at 55 mph when it suddenly began to sputter and lose power, which had never happened before. It never completely shut off and after rolling for a ways I pulled over off the road thinking I was out of gas, bit according to my gauge I was not out of gas but the gas light was on. Someone helped me get a little gas and it cranked right up after sitting for 30 minutes and I drive a mile to a gas station and put a few gallons of gas in it thinking that would take care of the problem. But after driving around 3 miles it began sputtering again and one power. I pulled over again and called my brother who told me to sit for a few minutes and try it again. I did and it cranked right up with no hesitation. And I drove 3 or 4 more miles before it happened again. It never had a problem cranking even when I thought it was out of gas which was strange because normally when you run out it takes a few seconds to crank but this was not the case. If I pressed on the gas pedal it would lose power. But when idling it was running fine with no sputtering. I finally made it home and the fuel filter was replaced and it seemed to be fine until I drove it the next day around 10 miles and it began sputtering and slowing down again so I pulled over and shut it off and sat for a few minutes and cranked it back up with no hesitation and drove around 8 miles with no problem after taking thee gas cap off. But the last 2 miles it Bagan sputtering again only thus time it was much worse and would not idle as it had been doing before. Also this time I got the message on the dashboard to shut off engine which had not happened either. I managed to make it home and I don't know what to do. I have little resources and money and need help diagnosing the problem. Thank you
I think the pump is failing, which can occur in stages. The computer told you to shut off engine because multiple misfires were being detected due to lack of fuel pressure. That's my guess. Did you scan it and get any codes?
Ok. How can you fix it
So my car turns on good no problem but sometimes when I’m driving slow it just looses alll power completely but the car still on , then I turn it off and on and it works be keep happening ,but when im on freeway it don’t happen
I got the same problem
How u fix it
00:46 I have a P0170 on an Opel Agila A Z12XE .
My car lose power when I accelerate or go up hill , the glow plugs goes on and lose power,
High speed car working is proper but sometimes while the drive car is switched off on the road what is the issu anyone explain to me ?
Well explained, thank you!
Mi car has acceleration problems only in the afternoon when the car is been on the sun for few hours,I press the gas pedal and it runs very slow,after 10 minutes it works normal,I don’t know if it might be the fuel pump,the check engine light has popped some times but not always,the code is p0157 and I have installed a new catalytic converter,new oxygen sensor on that bank,no intake leaks,don’t have exhaust leaks,and I don’t know if it might be bad fuel pressure,if you guys could help me I would appreciate it
bad sensor in your gas pedal maybe