You actually want that spacer on the clutch bolt. It keeps it from breaking with the harmonic forces. In the later years Polaris actually made the inside of the clutch smaller so you do not need a spacer.
Your video is precisely what I needed to take apart my ‘94 XCR SP’s primary and secondary. I’m jealous about how easy it seemed for you though. Been trying to take my primary off for weeks. Took forever to get the bolt out (had the washer and spacer), and now I can’t get it off the shaft. I’ve tried with my clutch puller (battery powered plus air driven, been dousing the bolt hole and surroundings with Pb Blaster, heat, etc. any tips for where to go next? Could something else be holding on or just good old rust?
My 91 Indy 500 has that long spacer and the two O-rings. Well, actually, "had" 2 O-rings. I went to pull the clutch to service it like he did in the video. The center bolt came out with the white plastic spacer and one O-ring. The other O-ring is jammed between the inside bore and the outside of the spacer! I tried digging out as much of the rubber as I can, then used a slide hammer with tips in the holes in the spacer...no luck! Can't get it out, so can't get the clutch puller in. Any ideas?
I tore my carb apart on this sled, a shit ton of white stuff I think oxidized aluminum, smells minty. I took of the cap and both of the springs under the cap came undone and I don’t know which way the little cap goes does the edge face down or up and how do I get the cable back through the spring and down into the cylinder, if you could make a short or something it would help alot
Great video. Thanks for posting. I have a 94 Polaris Indy 440, looks the same, My primary clutch looks a little wobbly when the motor is running idle. The belt is bouncing a little when the motor is running idle. I don't feel any play in the primary clutch when the motor is off. Do you know if I can tighten this up or any ideas? Thanks again for the video post. Very helpful. Cheers!
Besides making sure everything is tight and the weights are free I really can't say without seeing it, if anyone else can chime in or has seen this help a guy out!
How's your belt? It may have a burnt spot or two on it. Also you might need to take the clutch completely apart to replace the moveable sheave bushings which require a grunt tool and a holding fixture to get the spider off, it's really tight, like 200 ft lbs. Of course you need to find someone with the tools and knowledge to do it too. My brother & i used to rebuild them and we were able to get replacement bushings for the moveable sheave, weight arms, new rollers as well as new weight bolts, roller pins & buttons from the aftermarket not sure what Polaris or anybody else has anymore, haven't tried to get that stuff for a long time now. Of course it the main shaft or anything else is worn too badly you are going to need a new clutch. Clutch's are spendy especially from Polaris if they have any for the old ones anymore. Comet is a good replacement option.
That thing is a dog. Use a blue secondary spring 2nd or third notch, I usually liked the third notch and polish the Helix with fine scotch Brite, especially the ramps, that secondary spring is shot. You need a new primary spring as well, more initial tension will give a better hole shot, I think we used to use a blue there too. The old 432s wide open shift rpm was 7,800 if I remember correct. I used to over clutch mine a bit, a good 8,000 cold for when the clutches get hot and sag a bit. Also was the belt good and center distance & belt tension right? If not that will affect the shift through and especially the hole shot a lot too. It's starting out in too high of a ratio, like starting out in second gear. I have a 93 xcr with a 95 triple exhaust port 439 cc top end and the stock 38 mm carbs rejetted on it. That one likes a strong 8,200 or so hot. It runs good, My brother can't get by me on the Twisties with his 600 xcr, Ha! Oh and please don't use a screwdriver on the helix, you might nick it up where that bushing rides.
If you snap the secondary moveable sheave, pull the moveable against the spring tension and let it snap back, that will drive the helix out. You probably need to do it several times but that usually works. Also thinking about shift rpms, I should go dig out the old manuals, but maybe a good 8,000 rpms for the 432s. And I think Polaris said 8-8,200 on the 439s. Mine has a goofy mismatched pipe on it and I think it liked to touch 8,500. It ran strong, but haven't ridden the old girl for a long time, the chassis needs some TLC, shocks need rebuilding n stuff but otherwise it's not in bad shape. After close to 9,000 hard miles I've had the engine apart and freshened a few times and crank rebuilt once, but it is a fun old sled. I like the red xcrs.
Also I fiddled a lot with different clutch weights, grinding and weighting them to get a good launch and shift through. Also get them all to weigh the same. And steel springs sack out fast we used to replace them pretty regularly. Clutching is everything for max performance on sleds. Titanium springs are the thing, they don't sag, they just break when they are finally done, but they are hard to find & dam expensive too.
You actually want that spacer on the clutch bolt. It keeps it from breaking with the harmonic forces. In the later years Polaris actually made the inside of the clutch smaller so you do not need a spacer.
The how to is great, but showing the problem b4 and the result after is amazing. Love it, thnx
Glad you like it, and thanks!
this video is perfect, feels like im there and youre teaching me in person
Fox! I'm jealous of your shop.
Quick and to the point, nice work
Your video is precisely what I needed to take apart my ‘94 XCR SP’s primary and secondary. I’m jealous about how easy it seemed for you though. Been trying to take my primary off for weeks. Took forever to get the bolt out (had the washer and spacer), and now I can’t get it off the shaft. I’ve tried with my clutch puller (battery powered plus air driven, been dousing the bolt hole and surroundings with Pb Blaster, heat, etc. any tips for where to go next? Could something else be holding on or just good old rust?
That's not a homemade contraption. It's a tuned damper for Fuji motors. Been around for years.
My 91 Indy 500 has that long spacer and the two O-rings. Well, actually, "had" 2 O-rings. I went to pull the clutch to service it like he did in the video. The center bolt came out with the white plastic spacer and one O-ring. The other O-ring is jammed between the inside bore and the outside of the spacer! I tried digging out as much of the rubber as I can, then used a slide hammer with tips in the holes in the spacer...no luck! Can't get it out, so can't get the clutch puller in. Any ideas?
I tore my carb apart on this sled, a shit ton of white stuff I think oxidized aluminum, smells minty. I took of the cap and both of the springs under the cap came undone and I don’t know which way the little cap goes does the edge face down or up and how do I get the cable back through the spring and down into the cylinder, if you could make a short or something it would help alot
I think if u want the best effects on the 440 u should do so that it almost drives and then u do full throttle
That sled is pretty fast being almost 30 years old. I watched a video 2 sleds MXZ 800 and SXR 700 and them sleds went 69mph probably 15 years newer
Blue lock tight on the mane bolts, won’t fall off but you can get them off.
Great video. Thanks for posting. I have a 94 Polaris Indy 440, looks the same, My primary clutch looks a little wobbly when the motor is running idle. The belt is bouncing a little when the motor is running idle. I don't feel any play in the primary clutch when the motor is off. Do you know if I can tighten this up or any ideas? Thanks again for the video post. Very helpful. Cheers!
Besides making sure everything is tight and the weights are free I really can't say without seeing it, if anyone else can chime in or has seen this help a guy out!
How's your belt? It may have a burnt spot or two on it. Also you might need to take the clutch completely apart to replace the moveable sheave bushings which require a grunt tool and a holding fixture to get the spider off, it's really tight, like 200 ft lbs. Of course you need to find someone with the tools and knowledge to do it too. My brother & i used to rebuild them and we were able to get replacement bushings for the moveable sheave, weight arms, new rollers as well as new weight bolts, roller pins & buttons from the aftermarket not sure what Polaris or anybody else has anymore, haven't tried to get that stuff for a long time now. Of course it the main shaft or anything else is worn too badly you are going to need a new clutch. Clutch's are spendy especially from Polaris if they have any for the old ones anymore. Comet is a good replacement option.
Very informative
Thanks, hope it helped.
That thing is a dog. Use a blue secondary spring 2nd or third notch, I usually liked the third notch and polish the Helix with fine scotch Brite, especially the ramps, that secondary spring is shot. You need a new primary spring as well, more initial tension will give a better hole shot, I think we used to use a blue there too. The old 432s wide open shift rpm was 7,800 if I remember correct. I used to over clutch mine a bit, a good 8,000 cold for when the clutches get hot and sag a bit. Also was the belt good and center distance & belt tension right? If not that will affect the shift through and especially the hole shot a lot too. It's starting out in too high of a ratio, like starting out in second gear.
I have a 93 xcr with a 95 triple exhaust port 439 cc top end and the stock 38 mm carbs rejetted on it. That one likes a strong 8,200 or so hot. It runs good, My brother can't get by me on the Twisties with his 600 xcr, Ha!
Oh and please don't use a screwdriver on the helix, you might nick it up where that bushing rides.
If you snap the secondary moveable sheave, pull the moveable against the spring tension and let it snap back, that will drive the helix out. You probably need to do it several times but that usually works.
Also thinking about shift rpms, I should go dig out the old manuals, but maybe a good 8,000 rpms for the 432s. And I think Polaris said 8-8,200 on the 439s. Mine has a goofy mismatched pipe on it and I think it liked to touch 8,500. It ran strong, but haven't ridden the old girl for a long time, the chassis needs some TLC, shocks need rebuilding n stuff but otherwise it's not in bad shape. After close to 9,000 hard miles I've had the engine apart and freshened a few times and crank rebuilt once, but it is a fun old sled.
I like the red xcrs.
Also I fiddled a lot with different clutch weights, grinding and weighting them to get a good launch and shift through. Also get them all to weigh the same. And steel springs sack out fast we used to replace them pretty regularly. Clutching is everything for max performance on sleds. Titanium springs are the thing, they don't sag, they just break when they are finally done, but they are hard to find & dam expensive too.
You failed to check the spider buttons for wear, which is very important..
That’s a lot of snowmobiles
Sry a minute in.. the rubber is for the washer to keep water out.
One only at the end of the bolt.
Nope, it's to keep that bushing snug in there. It all for harmonics, because they would sometimes break the clutch bolt off.
Those are factory in Polaris snowmobile clutches !!!
My xcr 600 has those rubbers and the other piece on the clutch bolt
Must have been a few years that they did that, still ran well after taking them out.
@@taskforcealto it's for harmonics and helps keep the clutch bolt from breaking off, they would do that sometimes.
@@429thunderjet2 thanks for the input
Wow 65 my 97 with 96 440 special will do 100 any day of the week
Right on!