Great alternative instead of buying specially made spacers. I use a ball point pen casing/tube. The Papermate pen are like pvc tubes - can always find one in a drawer and I can cut them with scissors. Remove the ink insert first !! :)
It is always good advice to remove any metal objects such as a ring or bracelet ( gold wedding band) before doing any electrical work. Contact with live power can easily weld the band to you bone or burn off the finger completely. It happens.
There are parts that are designed specifically to solve this problem. They look like Lego’s so you can snap together as many as you need to reach the desired thickness. They are open on one side so the outlet does not need removal. Simply back out the screw a couple of turns, place the shin over the screw between the outlet and the box then retighten.
If it's a plastic box just use a drywall or wood screw and you'll be good to go. If you have a steel box you'll probably have to use one size larger metal/machine screw to grab threads. It'll be tight but should work.
Another solution which I just saw on a different video is to buy the same size bolt but longer. If it is a plastic box, then just the threads at the front may be stripped.
Combustible materials are never allowed under an outlet cover. There are extension rings for plastic boxes which could make this a code compliant installation. You’re clever repair simply left a fire hazard
Your comment made me curious so I did a little experienment. I lit a mapp gas torch and held the tubing directly in the flame for a few seconds. When I removed the tubing it immediatately went out. Tried the same thing again for 10 full seconds with the same result. The tubing will not hold a flame. It gets charred and deformed of course from the 3700 degree flame, but it doesn't burn, and barely even melts. My guess is the commercially available extender kits will provide the same result. I've seen people use everything from wood shims to layers of baseball cards (yep) to brace outlets, not to mention the countless times I've seen plaster walls with deep set boxes and exposed 100 year old lathe that's dry as tinder. Based on my little experiment I'm confident that using cheap tubing is just as safe as the commerically available extender kits. I appreciate your comment making me reevaluate.
A good example of sloppy workmanship. There is no reason for the carpenter or drywall worker to cut the openings that large! The polyethylene tubing is a good idea. However, the outlet will still have some loosness if the plastic outlet box is not anchored securely behind the dry wall. The only way to fix that is to build up the dry wall and close up the opening space to allow the outlet tabs have a hard surface to be mounted against.
LWRC - I was thinking the same exact thing. I avoid all Mickey Mouse type work as standard practice. In your opinion what is the best method to fix loose outlet where exterior stucco wall opening is too big?
@@maxperry1635 The best solution is to build up the dry wall surrounding the receptacle so it has a solid surface to be mounted against to. This is not easy, fast but is the most solid solution. You'll have to remove the outlet after shutting down the power. Using a dry wall trowel, pack additional dry wall mud and build up the opening on all four sides. Just make sure the opening is big enough for the receptacle to fit. Use the trowel to smooth the top surface so it blends into surrounding dry wall surface and is flat - this will ensure the ears of the receptacle will have a solid surface to rest against. You'll have to wait 24 hours for it to dry.
@@LWRC Thanks for taking the time to explain the proper drywall repair. When I put up my exterior Christmas lights, I was reminded of the very sloppy loose exterior outlet in a stucco wall. I am going to pull the cover to see what the deal is; I will check back later. There is a big bush I need to cut back to gain free access.
@@maxperry1635 You're very welcome Max! I just don't understand why home builders do this considering all these electrical junction boxes are standard sizes here in the US and they can just use a template for cutting the holes in the dry wall. But apparently, no one does this and I've seen it in so many homes where all the holes for the electrical outlets are cut over sized!!!
SMH. There is actually a U-shaped bracket designed for this very situation. That bracket meets code, the tubing does not. There are also box extenders to deal with this problem.
Great alternative instead of buying specially made spacers. I use a ball point pen casing/tube. The Papermate pen are like pvc tubes - can always find one in a drawer and I can cut them with scissors. Remove the ink insert first !! :)
I've been looking all over the internet to find a solution for this problem. Thank you!
I love it. Easy to buy and easy to install with low cost.
Tried this today and it worked like a charm, very clever thanks for sharing!
Seems like a good solution. I have had good results coiling a piece of 14 gauge bare wire around the screws for this situation.
What a clever solution to avoid another trip to the hardware store! Thanks!
It is always good advice to remove any metal objects such as a ring or bracelet ( gold wedding band) before doing any electrical work. Contact with live power can easily weld the band to you bone or burn off the finger completely. It happens.
They sell electrical box spacers for this purpose. Good idea though.
Well, that works! Thumbs up. I would have just used a box extender.
Smart and works well TYS, was sure not to over tighten.
There are parts that are designed specifically to solve this problem. They look like Lego’s so you can snap together as many as you need to reach the desired thickness. They are open on one side so the outlet does not need removal. Simply back out the screw a couple of turns, place the shin over the screw between the outlet and the box then retighten.
Better than those little folding caterpillar adapters which seldom line up properly. Thx
Huh, this is very clever, thank you!
just curious if anyone know how to deal with a completely vanished wood insert? my box does not have the metal insert the author had.
Very cool
You need a box extension to cover the wood and pass code
Clever!
Is It Polyethylene Tubing?
Clever
What if the screw doesn't grab in the box?
If it's a plastic box just use a drywall or wood screw and you'll be good to go. If you have a steel box you'll probably have to use one size larger metal/machine screw to grab threads. It'll be tight but should work.
Another solution which I just saw on a different video is to buy the same size bolt but longer. If it is a plastic box, then just the threads at the front may be stripped.
👍
Combustible materials are never allowed under an outlet cover. There are extension rings for plastic boxes which could make this a code compliant installation. You’re clever repair simply left a fire hazard
Freeman Baldwin - "Code compliant" work; good call in a sea of substandard work being carried out daily.
Your comment made me curious so I did a little experienment. I lit a mapp gas torch and held the tubing directly in the flame for a few seconds. When I removed the tubing it immediatately went out. Tried the same thing again for 10 full seconds with the same result. The tubing will not hold a flame. It gets charred and deformed of course from the 3700 degree flame, but it doesn't burn, and barely even melts. My guess is the commercially available extender kits will provide the same result. I've seen people use everything from wood shims to layers of baseball cards (yep) to brace outlets, not to mention the countless times I've seen plaster walls with deep set boxes and exposed 100 year old lathe that's dry as tinder. Based on my little experiment I'm confident that using cheap tubing is just as safe as the commerically available extender kits. I appreciate your comment making me reevaluate.
A good example of sloppy workmanship. There is no reason for the carpenter or drywall worker to cut the openings that large!
The polyethylene tubing is a good idea. However, the outlet will still have some loosness if the plastic outlet box is not anchored securely behind the dry wall. The only way to fix that is to build up the dry wall and close up the opening space to allow the outlet tabs have a hard surface to be mounted against.
LWRC - I was thinking the same exact thing. I avoid all Mickey Mouse type work as standard practice. In your opinion what is the best method to fix loose outlet where exterior stucco wall opening is too big?
@@maxperry1635 The best solution is to build up the dry wall surrounding the receptacle so it has a solid surface to be mounted against to. This is not easy, fast but is the most solid solution. You'll have to remove the outlet after shutting down the power. Using a dry wall trowel, pack additional dry wall mud and build up the opening on all four sides. Just make sure the opening is big enough for the receptacle to fit. Use the trowel to smooth the top surface so it blends into surrounding dry wall surface and is flat - this will ensure the ears of the receptacle will have a solid surface to rest against. You'll have to wait 24 hours for it to dry.
@@LWRC Thanks for taking the time to explain the proper drywall repair. When I put up my exterior Christmas lights, I was reminded of the very sloppy loose exterior outlet in a stucco wall. I am going to pull the cover to see what the deal is; I will check back later. There is a big bush I need to cut back to gain free access.
@@maxperry1635 You're very welcome Max! I just don't understand why home builders do this considering all these electrical junction boxes are standard sizes here in the US and they can just use a template for cutting the holes in the dry wall. But apparently, no one does this and I've seen it in so many homes where all the holes for the electrical outlets are cut over sized!!!
1:02 Did you really pull on the cord instead of the plug? Next video, "How to Replace a Plug with an Intermittent Connection".
"Outlet" wasn't loose - the receptacle was loose. Bad title!
SMH. There is actually a U-shaped bracket designed for this very situation. That bracket meets code, the tubing does not. There are also box extenders to deal with this problem.
@jeff5279 Right. I recently corrected two situations like that by using Arlington BE1 outlet box extenders.