I just stumbled across your videos and got hooked on your inventiveness. After a full 2 hours of intermittent creaking I had already done exactly the same service to my BB bearings. No more creaking. To you guys out there that just want to replace for new bearings, that’s fine but you still have to go through the service sequence and this video demonstrates that just fine. However, so long as there’s no pitting or rust to the balls or roller race, I would suggest you could get at least one or two more seasons out of washed out and re-greased bearing assembly. Well done mate.
From my years of experience of customers coming in and saying "my ride mates say it's my bottom bracket" - it's just as likely to be worn chain, crappy lightweight QRs that aren't tightened properly or loose crank/chainring bolts. Always check these things before assuming it's your BB.
Thank you for this video. I liked the broomstick trick. Worked really well. The bearings with integrated cups did not want to come out. Used a hammer with nylon ends and just kept tapping away. Going to clean things up real good and reinstall.
I had this very recently and was very surprised that I had lost 2 chainring bolts. Only creaked under load with the chain on the small chainring but it made a hell of a noise. My tip: check that your chainring bolts are tight (or actually there) as this is an easy fix!
I had this on a brand new bicycle. I was sure 1000% that was around bottom bracket or pedals, I was really really sure. Serviced twice, pedals, bottom bracket... Nothing... Creaking persisted. An old bicycle mechanic, suddenly took a screw driver, and told me to push on my pedals, while he used the screwdriver as a stethoscope. Yes a stethoscope. Obviously he placed the handle side on the ear. In few seconds he told me that the creaking was coming from the rear axle (it was new and not well lubed). I was skeptic, because I was sure the sound came from BB or pedals that spot! Lubed the rear axle and creaking was gone.
yesterday I posted quite a long text about taking off the chainset and wiggling a big screwdriver between the chainwheels. Creak creak! I was convinced I'd found the noise, after cleaning and regreasing everything else (pedals, chainwheels, chainset, bolts, new bottom bracket, new skewers on rear wheel, new chain....). So I posted a long text here. But went out iin the evening, and ..."creak creak". Oh no! This morning I put different rear wheel on and ... no creak! Note that it wasn't the skewers, it must be either the hub, freehub, or cassette. If anyone is interested it's an old Campag Daytona hub with campag 10sp freehub. Hope this helps, and apologies to anyone who read yesterday's post!
If it still creaks after servicing, there is easy fix. Loctite bearing (blue) and activator(loctite) between outer bearing race and frame. Loctite makes a bearing specific liquid. Dont ever use red loctite
Good video and I appreciate the DIY tooling advice, however after 2 years and after pulling everything apart, you are better off just installing new bearings. Steel bearings don't cost much at all. Likewise, a bearing removal tool is much safer than using a screwdriver. I appreciate you can clean and regrease, but a basic pressfit shimano BB is like $20. Best to pop a new one in.
I agree with you David, best to get new bearings and the right tools, because if you do this wrong, you could destroy more than bearings using a screwdriver or a handle. Although the video is about general creaking causes, it focuses solely on the bottom bracket.
My mountain bike was clicking with every pedal turn. Everything pointed at the bottom bracket but I knew it was only a few months old, I had replaced it myself. Then I undid the rear wheel quick release, I changed the shaft and nut position by rotating them slightly and re-tightened everything snugly. Problem solved, no more clicking! It's a good thing to apply some WD-40 as well but be super careful and cover the brake disk and caliper with a cloth before spraying! WD-40 on the brakes is like removing the brakes completely 😱
for anyone watching in the future, tapping out bearings damages them no matter how you do it. If you tap using a screwdriver it offers even more wear. The best way to do it is with a puller tool but barely anyone sells those anymore since people just buy ebay bearings and hit them out whenever they clean them.
Not supposed to use the torque wrench to remove the left hand crank arm. For torqueing only. Taping out bearing using the inner race is ok, but discard dont re-use...it destroys bearing. Instead, replace bearings and NEVER DRIVE IN NEW BEARING PUSHING ON INNER RACE ONLY. Push using outer race only. Good video. He did good.
After completely dissembling my son's race BMX BB twice to resolve the creaking issue, I found that the creaking was coming from the chain-ring bolts. After removing them, applying grease and assembling, his BMX is as quiet as a church mouse.
@@stevenleffanue fantastic. Removing stubborn bearings from the BB cup is really difficult at times. What about getting a junkyard bike from a junkyard. Angle grinding the bottom bracket out of that and making that a tool that you could mount in a vice to help with this rather than risk your bike. ?
Great video, can I also suggest that another major source of carbon bike creak is the front and rear dropouts. I had a really annoying creak, a drop of grease on both, and it was gone......
+Andy Satch If your axle/quicl release is squeeking that suggests some movement occuring. Greasing that area may stop the sweek but it has also lubricated the area allowing it to move more freely. There shouldnt be any movement here. I suggest thoroughly clean the surfaces and doing the squewer up tight. Often riders buy ultra-light squewers and they creak because not getting a firm clasp on the dropouts. Wheels but be secure on the bike Andy.
Thanks for that OZ, but I'm just relating something that happened, both to me and a couple of friends bikes, where this stopped the squeak. Our skewers were correctly tensioned. I understand where you are coming from, but this seemed to be a characteristic of carbon frames, as we also have aluminium frames which have not experienced this.
maybe u could recommend using a bit of painters tape on the head of the screwdriver so that u dont scratch anything..i scratched the headtube of my mtb while hammering out the headset cups ...but still great video :)
+Kevin G Good idea Kevin. I try keep the tools and materials as simple as possible...many viewers are in India,SE Asia,etc and have limited resources and hopefully can adapt the ideas or improve on them as you just have.
You are doing a great job! Thanks for your videos so far! But i got a question for greasing the Bearing. You are using the white lithium grease. I was wondering after cooking my chain in paraffin - which worked perfectly... whould it make sense to cook the bearing in paraffin as well to let is soak in paraffin ?
+Stephan Jäger There isnt much research on Parrafin wax for bearings. I havnt trialed it myself but will do so soon. You could try it Stephan then let us know how it went?
Thanks for your reply Ozy ;) Right now i got sealed Hollowtech bearings, but i ordered a new light carbon frame in china, which comes with press fit bearings. I think the stock ones are quite heavy, so i will exchange them with lighter ones, so i could actually "test" them with Paraffin :) ( i cooked my chain after i saw your video, and iam deeply impressed, they look so nice, shiny, and the fingers arnt getting so black and dirty anymore.) ( i think i also got an older ultegra bearing as well, i could also try to open it up for a Paraffin-Bearing-Research :) Do you actually have an Idea how to measure the friction of a Bike-Drive-Train? I was searching for this, but didnt found anything about it. Than we could directly check out if Paraffin-Bearings are having less or more friction than greased ones :-) Thanks so far - greetings from Germany :)
+Stephan Jäger Apart from spinning rear wheel forward to see if it moves the drive train or by feel,no I dont know how to test it Try looking up "CeramicSpeed",they are into this sort of thing also. I saw a video once where the drive train was so low friction it all moved when rear wheel spins...cant find the vid now!
Great video! Dont suppose you do requests but if ou do would you be able to make a video about BB conversion. I have a Focus with a Sram conversion from a PF30 to a Threaded hollotech and I am unsure how to replace the Hollowtech part as I prefere the inslicity of threaded in comparison to PF
+Alan Lyne Good request Alan.I do have a list of subjects to be covered....there are 26 items on it at moment + I admit Im lazy and dont like sitn i front of computer :) . Will do best. Thanx Alan
Don't overlook rear wheel/cassette splines/ lock ring assembly. Check to see if your cassette has any play between axle body and cassette splines: if yes, use a bit of anti seizing compound on the splines. Also check torque on the cassette lock ring. I spent time on reinstalling chainrings and associated bolts, installing a new bottom bracket and tightening shoe cleats only to find out the problem was actually in the cassette/wheel assembly.
@@stevenleffanue Do you ever remove the chain rings off the crank , clean up the surfaces that contact the crank and grease the mating surfaces before reassembly?
1. how many km you have with this crankset-big chain ring is worn, small is as new, you should reshape and re pitch teeth on big chain ring to extend life of it. 2. noise from bottom bracket is common and often thing with industrial bearings. On road bike with champanolo chorus bb never appeared any noise but on mtb with industrial bb it is normaly. I tryed to clean and well grease every part of it and tighten it to death but very soon everything started from beginning, so get uset to it
Hi there. I was listening in on a conversation recently and heard someone say that you could now replace the BB bearings with new low friction ceramic ones. Is there any truth to this ?
+Timur Hafouz Yes. They are expensive and you need to keep an ear to their performance. Once they begin to pit they will self-destruct extremely quickly....like in one short ride. Pro-teams can afford to replace them often.
Bearings are delicate. Rinsing with water and then just leaving them won't help. Need something like wd40 to displace the water before you pack it with grease:) or that's what I'd do. Maybe the grease is good enough to stop the bearings being affected.
I stuck in the two allen key pinch bolts. One of the bolt that near the bottom bracket is worn thread or thread stripping.Maybe because the size of my tool ain't right, What can i do?
Actually I am suprised that you didn't point out the two seals fitted to the Shimano crankset - the one that snugs up against the inner of the drive side on the axle and the one that sits in the recess on the inner side of the non drive side crank and the easiest to loose of the two - the number of these that I have picked up off friends driveways or garage floors and said you do know what this is don't you... and they don't, but they soon learn - good video though and I just got the new Hope ceramic BB for my commuter bike so guess what my job is tomorrow :.)
Hey mate, just got a new press fit bb installed on my bike (MTB) and got everything greased and it is now creaking worse??? I dont get what is up with my bike. Its a pretty new bike
Hey, thanks for reply, its a BB30 pressfit, on a carbon cannondale jeykell frame, I have put tonns of grease on the headset that still creaks and got the BB replaced and re-greased and when you put any sort of power down it creaks and cracks a lot worse than before
+Kurtis Ok. Take the BB out and clean the contact surfaces of the frame and outer races of the bearings....use degreaser or metholated spirits. Put Loctite 401 on those contacting surfaces and reassemble the BB and cranks.
Just was watching a video about that, I would prefer to use some fiber gripper but if loctite wont damage the frame its worth a shot. Thanks for your help fellow South aussie :)
+J L Thanx for your concern J L. The frame isnt "clamped" as such but just sits firmly. For very thin carbon frame tubes I use padded extension tubes...I may show these in a vid one day.
+Zerobladetion Wot Without your bike in front of me its very difficult to tell whats going on. If you cant find the noise,try the bottom bracket service 1st,its often the problem.
I had an annoying tick that sounded like it was coming from the bottom bracket (full carbon bike, the sounds travels which can be pretty misleading) and the tick occurred in the same spot through the crank rotation, turned out to be the pedal bolt. Removed both pedals, a smear of assembly grease and then back in to the correct torque. Silent running again.
No, im not one of those who sais that :D Im planning on venturing down there because it passed the point of creaking (not in a good way) but i lack tools, if it where more higher end i would do it right away but yeah, still works. By the way nice tutorial :D
cant believe you cleaned that in dirty ass solvent.... i use fresh gasoline, then carburetor cleaner spray. also you didn't tell anyone to be careful or show any technique for not bending the hell out of the bearing shields. so that tells me your probably rocking trashed shields.
If it’s a BB, then it’s issues with it. You should look at the engineer on RUclips, Hambini; there are a few BBs that creak due to issues, not just loctite needed it’s that it’s not as well made, with a mm or so gap creating the noises.
I just stumbled across your videos and got hooked on your inventiveness. After a full 2 hours of intermittent creaking I had already done exactly the same service to my BB bearings. No more creaking. To you guys out there that just want to replace for new bearings, that’s fine but you still have to go through the service sequence and this video demonstrates that just fine. However, so long as there’s no pitting or rust to the balls or roller race, I would suggest you could get at least one or two more seasons out of washed out and re-greased bearing assembly. Well done mate.
EXCELLENT info!! And what a pro job done!! I get this great feeling after doing something like this to the road bike!! My OCD is at ease now :-)
From my years of experience of customers coming in and saying "my ride mates say it's my bottom bracket" - it's just as likely to be worn chain, crappy lightweight QRs that aren't tightened properly or loose crank/chainring bolts. Always check these things before assuming it's your BB.
Thank you for this video. I liked the broomstick trick. Worked really well. The bearings with integrated cups did not want to come out. Used a hammer with nylon ends and just kept tapping away. Going to clean things up real good and reinstall.
The Quality of Your Delivery is Awesome!!!! And REALLY INSPIRING
Thank you, I needed that level of detail to get me really comfortable. Hope you have a video for gear adjustments for my 11 speed. Great job.
As usual a great video, nothing like content from one of our own, well done
I had a creak that was driving me bonkers. After careful inspection it turned out to be the chain catcher.
Awesome video, you make everything so easy to understand, thanks you.
I had this very recently and was very surprised that I had lost 2 chainring bolts. Only creaked under load with the chain on the small chainring but it made a hell of a noise. My tip: check that your chainring bolts are tight (or actually there) as this is an easy fix!
yeah there's like 8 things to check before doing bottom bracket.
I'm here to ask how often the bottom bracket needs to be service? interval?
very thorough and informative for beginners like me. Thank you!
Excellent video, very easy, clear explanations.
+1 on not loosening bolts with the torque wrench. Thanks for the vid!
great video, really well made and detailed
I had this on a brand new bicycle.
I was sure 1000% that was around bottom bracket or pedals, I was really really sure.
Serviced twice, pedals, bottom bracket... Nothing... Creaking persisted.
An old bicycle mechanic, suddenly took a screw driver, and told me to push on my pedals, while he used the screwdriver as a stethoscope. Yes a stethoscope. Obviously he placed the handle side on the ear.
In few seconds he told me that the creaking was coming from the rear axle (it was new and not well lubed).
I was skeptic, because I was sure the sound came from BB or pedals that spot!
Lubed the rear axle and creaking was gone.
Great video man, thanks for sharing
made it look very easy. very helpful tips.
Well done. You deserve your subscribers.
Haven't cleaned my BB for about 8 years...
Thanks mate for the video it works for my bike too
Nice and informative video👍🏻
yesterday I posted quite a long text about taking off the chainset and wiggling a big screwdriver between the chainwheels. Creak creak! I was convinced I'd found the noise, after cleaning and regreasing everything else (pedals, chainwheels, chainset, bolts, new bottom bracket, new skewers on rear wheel, new chain....). So I posted a long text here. But went out iin the evening, and ..."creak creak". Oh no! This morning I put different rear wheel on and ... no creak! Note that it wasn't the skewers, it must be either the hub, freehub, or cassette. If anyone is interested it's an old Campag Daytona hub with campag 10sp freehub. Hope this helps, and apologies to anyone who read yesterday's post!
Great advice
Funny how this video appeared in my feed 2 days after my bottom bracket started squeeking, and I haven't told anyone about it yet.
+panzerveps Hopefully you ged rid of the squeek then :)
If it still creaks after servicing, there is easy fix. Loctite bearing (blue) and activator(loctite) between outer bearing race and frame. Loctite makes a bearing specific liquid. Dont ever use red loctite
Good video and I appreciate the DIY tooling advice, however after 2 years and after pulling everything apart, you are better off just installing new bearings. Steel bearings don't cost much at all. Likewise, a bearing removal tool is much safer than using a screwdriver. I appreciate you can clean and regrease, but a basic pressfit shimano BB is like $20. Best to pop a new one in.
I agree with you David, best to get new bearings and the right tools, because if you do this wrong, you could destroy more than bearings using a screwdriver or a handle. Although the video is about general creaking causes, it focuses solely on the bottom bracket.
Rrr🎉rRr@@s9523pink
My mountain bike was clicking with every pedal turn. Everything pointed at the bottom bracket but I knew it was only a few months old, I had replaced it myself. Then I undid the rear wheel quick release, I changed the shaft and nut position by rotating them slightly and re-tightened everything snugly. Problem solved, no more clicking! It's a good thing to apply some WD-40 as well but be super careful and cover the brake disk and caliper with a cloth before spraying! WD-40 on the brakes is like removing the brakes completely 😱
for anyone watching in the future, tapping out bearings damages them no matter how you do it. If you tap using a screwdriver it offers even more wear. The best way to do it is with a puller tool but barely anyone sells those anymore since people just buy ebay bearings and hit them out whenever they clean them.
Very helpful.
Good info, but I don't recommend loosening bolts with a toque wrench. Only tighten with them.
Rake for 4 dollars in the 2 dollar shop! had to laugh here but the vid is superb and shows the way to do your bottom bracket with ease.
Thanx for noticing the subtle humor Davy 😁
Very nice vedio perfect job,👍👏
Not supposed to use the torque wrench to remove the left hand crank arm.
For torqueing only. Taping out bearing using the inner race is ok, but discard dont re-use...it destroys bearing.
Instead, replace bearings and NEVER DRIVE IN NEW BEARING PUSHING ON INNER RACE ONLY. Push using outer race only. Good video. He did good.
I wish they made farmer-grade bikes with grease zerks!
After completely dissembling my son's race BMX BB twice to resolve the creaking issue, I found that the creaking was coming from the chain-ring bolts. After removing them, applying grease and assembling, his BMX is as quiet as a church mouse.
Yes,chainring bolts and even pedal threads can be mistaken for bb creaking. Glad you solved it.
@@stevenleffanue fantastic. Removing stubborn bearings from the BB cup is really difficult at times. What about getting a junkyard bike from a junkyard. Angle grinding the bottom bracket out of that and making that a tool that you could mount in a vice to help with this rather than risk your bike. ?
Great video, can I also suggest that another major source of carbon bike creak is the front and rear dropouts. I had a really annoying creak, a drop of grease on both, and it was gone......
+Andy Satch Assume you mean the dropout surfaces that adjuncts the axle and squewers,Andy?
Yes, that's right. I put a smear of grease on both sides before placing the wheels on the bike. Works a treat.
+Andy Satch If your axle/quicl release is squeeking that suggests some movement occuring. Greasing that area may stop the sweek but it has also lubricated the area allowing it to move more freely. There shouldnt be any movement here. I suggest thoroughly clean the surfaces and doing the squewer up tight. Often riders buy ultra-light squewers and they creak because not getting a firm clasp on the dropouts. Wheels but be secure on the bike Andy.
Thanks for that OZ, but I'm just relating something that happened, both to me and a couple of friends bikes, where this stopped the squeak. Our skewers were correctly tensioned. I understand where you are coming from, but this seemed to be a characteristic of carbon frames, as we also have aluminium frames which have not experienced this.
maybe u could recommend using a bit of painters tape on the head of the screwdriver so that u dont scratch anything..i scratched the headtube of my mtb while hammering out the headset cups ...but still great video :)
+Kevin G Good idea Kevin. I try keep the tools and materials as simple as possible...many viewers are in India,SE Asia,etc and have limited resources and hopefully can adapt the ideas or improve on them as you just have.
I use blue locktite on the pinch bolts. good video. have you done a video on your Orbea? nice bike
+dsonyay Yes good idea using loctite there. My Orbea is getn old now .... 2012. Doubt many want to see review on older bikes.
You are doing a great job! Thanks for your videos so far! But i got a question for greasing the Bearing. You are using the white lithium grease. I was wondering after cooking my chain in paraffin - which worked perfectly... whould it make sense to cook the bearing in paraffin as well to let is soak in paraffin ?
+Stephan Jäger There isnt much research on Parrafin wax for bearings. I havnt trialed it myself but will do so soon. You could try it Stephan then let us know how it went?
Thanks for your reply Ozy ;)
Right now i got sealed Hollowtech bearings, but i ordered a new light carbon frame in china, which comes with press fit bearings. I think the stock ones are quite heavy, so i will exchange them with lighter ones, so i could actually "test" them with Paraffin :) ( i cooked my chain after i saw your video, and iam deeply impressed, they look so nice, shiny, and the fingers arnt getting so black and dirty anymore.) ( i think i also got an older ultegra bearing as well, i could also try to open it up for a Paraffin-Bearing-Research :)
Do you actually have an Idea how to measure the friction of a Bike-Drive-Train? I was searching for this, but didnt found anything about it. Than we could directly check out if Paraffin-Bearings are having less or more friction than greased ones :-)
Thanks so far - greetings from Germany :)
+Stephan Jäger Apart from spinning rear wheel forward to see if it moves the drive train or by feel,no I dont know how to test it Try looking up "CeramicSpeed",they are into this sort of thing also. I saw a video once where the drive train was so low friction it all moved when rear wheel spins...cant find the vid now!
Great video! Dont suppose you do requests but if ou do would you be able to make a video about BB conversion. I have a Focus with a Sram conversion from a PF30 to a Threaded hollotech and I am unsure how to replace the Hollowtech part as I prefere the inslicity of threaded in comparison to PF
+Alan Lyne Good request Alan.I do have a list of subjects to be covered....there are 26 items on it at moment + I admit Im lazy and dont like sitn i front of computer :) . Will do best. Thanx Alan
Ah sure arent we all ;) haha
Don't overlook rear wheel/cassette splines/ lock ring assembly. Check to see if your cassette has any play between axle body and cassette splines: if yes, use a bit of anti seizing compound on the splines. Also check torque on the cassette lock ring. I spent time on reinstalling chainrings and associated bolts, installing a new bottom bracket and tightening shoe cleats only to find out the problem was actually in the cassette/wheel assembly.
+Norman Mattson Good suggestion Norman.I will add that to my inspection collection :) . Noises can come from the most unexpected place sometimes.
THE CREAK ON MY BIKE SOUNDS EXACTLY LIKE THIS!!!
HOW DO I FIX IT
Another great video. Do you ever strip down the chain rings?
Not sure what you mean Nigel?
@@stevenleffanue Do you ever remove the chain rings off the crank , clean up the surfaces that contact the crank and grease the mating surfaces before reassembly?
Creaking means there is movement between surfaces. That joint is fixed...should be no movement Nigel.
ottimo piu' che ottimo
1. how many km you have with this crankset-big chain ring is worn, small is as new, you should reshape and re pitch teeth on big chain ring to extend life of it.
2. noise from bottom bracket is common and often thing with industrial bearings.
On road bike with champanolo chorus bb never appeared any noise but on mtb with industrial bb it is normaly. I tryed to clean and well grease every part of it and tighten it to death but very soon everything started from beginning, so get uset to it
Press fit BBs are just notorious for creaking. Threaded BBs stay put when installed.
Oz, did you change your frame, or just painted?
+Afonso Ramos Thats Orbea bronze. I also have Orbea gold which is in some videos. Cheers Afonso
beautiful bikes you have! The color scheme and everything is great. And of course thev videos as aways!
Hi there. I was listening in on a conversation recently and heard someone say that you could now replace the BB bearings with new low friction ceramic ones. Is there any truth to this ?
+Timur Hafouz Yes. They are expensive and you need to keep an ear to their performance. Once they begin to pit they will self-destruct extremely quickly....like in one short ride. Pro-teams can afford to replace them often.
2:47 Big no-no there, but it probably won't make a difference on low torque bolts. I wouldn't do it either way, but that's just me.
Bearings are delicate. Rinsing with water and then just leaving them won't help. Need something like wd40 to displace the water before you pack it with grease:) or that's what I'd do. Maybe the grease is good enough to stop the bearings being affected.
+Christopher Jenkins Yes,good suggestion Christopher especially in cooler weather when it may take some time for water to evaporate.
Do you have any video about that cleaning device you made from the garden sprayer??
You mean the pump-up spray bottles?
yes
One video "cleaning your carbon bike".
thank you I will check that!!
wouldn't it be easier to drop some oil down the seat post hole?
moron
Oz you should use "cards" in your videos indicating related videos. Annotations are gone.
+learn share Thanx...Im not sure how to set that up. Paps I will have to watch a RUclips on that :)
Of course you know, I will send you a message on how to do it.
I stuck in the two allen key pinch bolts. One of the bolt that near the bottom bracket is worn thread or thread stripping.Maybe because the size of my tool ain't right, What can i do?
ruclips.net/video/h9ivJ2Ooe9k/видео.html
@@stevenleffanue OMG, you are a life saver!!!!! Love you so much!!! I'm going to buy that little thing right now!! quickbit hinge mate!
i can't tighten the preload bolt enough to remove the play of the crank what am I doing wrong?
+Prastt Often there are thin washers or shims which go between bearing and crank arm, Prastt....a millimeter or two can make all the difference.
Actually I am suprised that you didn't point out the two seals fitted to the Shimano crankset - the one that snugs up against the inner of the drive side on the axle and the one that sits in the recess on the inner side of the non drive side crank and the easiest to loose of the two - the number of these that I have picked up off friends driveways or garage floors and said you do know what this is don't you... and they don't, but they soon learn - good video though and I just got the new Hope ceramic BB for my commuter bike so guess what my job is tomorrow :.)
Hey mate, just got a new press fit bb installed on my bike (MTB) and got everything greased and it is now creaking worse??? I dont get what is up with my bike. Its a pretty new bike
+Kurtis Where the cups fit into the frame,on the frame,is it alloy or carbon fiber,Kurtis?
Hey, thanks for reply, its a BB30 pressfit, on a carbon cannondale jeykell frame, I have put tonns of grease on the headset that still creaks and got the BB replaced and re-greased and when you put any sort of power down it creaks and cracks a lot worse than before
It is really just seeming like the frame because my carbon road bike with press fit BB has done about 2500km and it hasnt made a single sound.
+Kurtis Ok. Take the BB out and clean the contact surfaces of the frame and outer races of the bearings....use degreaser or metholated spirits. Put Loctite 401 on those contacting surfaces and reassemble the BB and cranks.
Just was watching a video about that, I would prefer to use some fiber gripper but if loctite wont damage the frame its worth a shot. Thanks for your help fellow South aussie :)
good video..but ive never seen it take so long to take the bb apart..lol..thats why i wont mess with my bikes..
+mikieson First time you do it you will need to go slow,yes. Honestly,it isnt difficult with modern bb's .....you soon get the hang of it.
Just buy a Chris King bottom bracket and a Chris King luber and end all your bottom bracket problems 🤠🤠🤠
why are you clamping on your top tube?
+J L Thanx for your concern J L. The frame isnt "clamped" as such but just sits firmly. For very thin carbon frame tubes I use padded extension tubes...I may show these in a vid one day.
i have a knocking sound when i pedel what it's ? Everytime i pedel my when am riding my bicycle it make a knocking sound can you help me oz cycle ?
+Zerobladetion Wot Without your bike in front of me its very difficult to tell whats going on. If you cant find the noise,try the bottom bracket service 1st,its often the problem.
I have this kind of noise too. But my problem is at the shoes. I think i need to put some grease on my spd cleats. Try this too Zerobladetion.
I don't have cycling shoes just normal shoes.
I had an annoying tick that sounded like it was coming from the bottom bracket (full carbon bike, the sounds travels which can be pretty misleading) and the tick occurred in the same spot through the crank rotation, turned out to be the pedal bolt. Removed both pedals, a smear of assembly grease and then back in to the correct torque. Silent running again.
And your chain could just need oiling.
There are so many different types of bike that any video on bottom brackets is likely irrelevant.
i'm sorry you just washed the original grease out and stuffed those bearing.
strangest comment ive read.
lol havent checked it in 21 years
+Péter Soós Hehe...they dont make them like they used to hey? The higher the tech,the more things to go wrong.
No, im not one of those who sais that :D Im planning on venturing down there because it passed the point of creaking (not in a good way) but i lack tools, if it where more higher end i would do it right away but yeah, still works. By the way nice tutorial :D
+Péter Soós Sounds like you mite need new bb.
Coming from
cant believe you cleaned that in dirty ass solvent....
i use fresh gasoline, then carburetor cleaner spray.
also you didn't tell anyone to be careful or show any technique for not bending the hell out of the bearing shields. so that tells me your probably rocking trashed shields.
he also was hitting on ball bearing inner race.. with a SCREWDRIVER!
+Alex Pavlov After the petrol I always clean with degreaser. I remove seals with a dental pick ....does it fine
If it’s a BB, then it’s issues with it.
You should look at the engineer on RUclips, Hambini; there are a few BBs that creak due to issues, not just loctite needed it’s that it’s not as well made, with a mm or so gap creating the noises.
Most pressfit bbs eventually creak and loctite is cheapest way to fix it.
*screw this buy another bike*
What an idiot 😂🤦