A Qidi plus 4 owner here, I have seen that I have to run auto bed level at the temp you plan the bed to print at. My process is to heat soak the bed first for 30 minutes to an hour, then run the system bed calibration. If you go from pla to petg, or any of the more exotic filaments, you need to recalibrate the bed. I have found that the bed calibration works for give or take 10 degrees. Hope this helps.
I have had no issues with my Plus 4. I have manually adjusted bed to get the best bed calibration numbers for the entire bed, and also just let it be with a full auto bed calibration variation of .5+ (build plate had something under it) and still had perfect first layers and full prints. I have used pla, pla silk, abs, petg, asa-cf....and more that I can't remember.......all with no issues. You can literally just plug this thing in and get perfection. Something is wrong with your machine. Maybe have a look for something "obvious" such as loose parts etc. The print head has been reported to come loose on a few machines as I'm sure you have heard about in your research but double check everything. You look like you are having bed adhesion issues perhaps caused by z offset or bed temps. Why not do a manual bed calibration to ensure your nozzle is not too far away from the bed and also preheat the bed. I have not had to do this but I usually preheat anyway in order to get the best auto calibration before the print. It is best practice to preheat much longer than the time it takes to indicate the required temp especially with the plus 4 thick build plate. Not good customer service in my view. Qidi should be replacing the machine. Customers should not be expected to be expert trouble shooters, not to mention the wasted time and filament. You will be happy with it once you get what you paid for. Try preheat for 20 minutes, make sure you know your filament is dry, and print a large first layer sheet. No need to start printing anything beyond that until the first layer is perfect. Sometimes the first couple infill lines will be less than perfect so give it a few lines to know if it is failed or not and then just cancel if it doesn't get perfect. Also give your build plate a good soapy cleaning and a wipe down with windex before you do any of this. I expect none of this is news to you but just in case....
A buddy of mine has the Q1 and it prints perfectly every time for him. It prints so well he is scared to change anything and that includes updating the firmware. He has been so confused by my issues. I am going to do a follow up video this weekend
so you went from factory reset and immediately tried to do a print. I don't have one of these printers but I have been seeing a lot of good reviews and have been extremely interested ... Aren't you supposed to run through a whole calibration thing after a factory reset, where it autolevels, measures resonance, etc?
I was having similar issues and ended up being a faulty extruder which Qidi support shipped to me free of charge. I also had a poor experience with the textured PEI plate that came stock and upgraded to the high temp smooth plate, huge improvement to bed adhesion with PLA. I hope this helps, I know first hand how frustrating Qidi support is, I had to figure out the problem myself. but they were quick to send the replacement parts without any hassle. Once you get it fixed it is a great printer, good luck.
@@AdamLoerts After many emails I was adamite that I felt the inconsistencies were caused by the extruder and they shipped it out without any hassle, after trying their suggestions, the same g code files they sent you. Like you I was very frustrated but I tried not to take it out on the person who was helping me. I have had no issues since replacing the extruder. When I removed it, it was obvious that was the problem, you could feel it when manually moving the gear wheels in comparison to the new one. I am believe this problem is more common than they realize.
Have you tried brushing a thin coat of pva liquid glue on the pei plate, and do you have v1.6 of the firmware installed? My Plus4 worked straight out of the box. I ran through the set up procedure, picked the Benchy, and it printed it. Nothing has ever lifted off the bed, and the prints are pretty much flawless, just need to find a couple of settings in Studio to adjust. Your pei plate looks different to mine, maybe a different texture?
It is the textured plate, which are usually the best plates for good adhesion. And on that note, glue sticks, hair spray and other adhesive products are used to improve the adhesion process not fix first layer z-offset issues. In the past 3D manufacturers used to use glass beds because their adhesion properties were beyond amazing, but that was their problem, you had a heck of a time of getting the print off the bed because it stuck so good. In the video I show a proper first layer calibration on the Prusa MK3S. The only reason to use an adhesive product is to eliminate potential lifting later in the print, like in the second layer where it starts to lift and warp. This is the reason people use it for the exotic filaments. PLA and PETG don't fall in that category.
@@andyduffy2628 I had horrible adhesion issues at first because my bed temps were too low and my z offset was wrong. With PLA my initial bed temp is 60 then down to 50 for the rest, fan off for first layer. My z-offset ended up being 0.034-0.04 depending on if its the pla+ or silk PLA. Some people have said that QIDI sometimes forgets the z-offset so theres a way to edit it in the printer config file so its permanent, might want to look into that s you may be experiencing that issue. My first layer is always at 30mm/s wall, 150mm/s infill and I run it fairly thick at 0.16 layers my first layer is actually 0.2 since I dont print super critical dimensional parts yet Im not worried about the first layer being slightly thicker. Havent had a single first layer failure now in several dozen prints.
3 months in, and I will be buying another brand. Beyond frustrated at this point. My issues are similar, but on mine, the bed keeps getting closer to the nozzle. When new, it printed great. First sign of trouble was when i tried to print some high temp nylon. It took a while to realize, but much like your prints, the nozzle was too far off the bed. So i decreased the Z heigh, and got an ok print. subsiquent prints stuck, and seemed fine, but then out of nowhere, i had pretty bad elephants foot. Swapping back to ASA-cf, i had to set the Z at +0.047, that seemed to work for quite a while, and lfe was good, prints were looking great. Then every other print started failing, for one reason or another. Thinking it was a filament issue ( i was using CF filament at the time ) i swapped in a 0.6mm nozzle. Then things just got stupid. It started jamming the print down so hard, I scratched up the bed pretty good just trying to get the prints off. I had to resort to melting the ASA with acetone, every time, just to start with a clean plate. One long night of adjusting the Z to 0.06, then 0.08, then 0.1, 0.12, 0.14, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4... and every time, print mashed down so hard i had to go midevil to get the plate clean. I gave up, turned it off and walked away for a week. Just ccame back to it today with a fresh new and well dried roll of ASA . Did several flow tests, and settled in on a 0.95 flow rate and a Z offset of 0.16 ( that seems really like a lot for a machine that should do auto Z.... ) . 2 very short prints later, as i was decreasing the flow rate to get a better top layer, and got hit with massive elephants foot and another round of build plate butchery to get the purge lines off. So, I set the Z to 0.2, and reprinted the same file. yep, elephant foot is better but not gone, so guessing Z= =0.2 needs to now be 0.22 to 0.26.... its inconsistent, to say the least. Qidi has yet to respond to any of the 3 emails i have sent about the chamber heater board, so i doubt they will respond to my last one requesting a refund. To be clear, they have sent an auto generated responce pointing me to the wiki every time i email, but i have yet to get a responce from a real person. Beyond pissed off. Ill give them a week, if I haven't heard back i will make it my goal to warn everyone what a crap product and crap compay Qidi offers/os.
So I am having this experience almost exactly. First 48 hours of printing were amazing. I’ve actually had many other problems as well, a dead heater chamber fan, corrupted eMMC, and of course several clogs. Having fixed most of it mine is behaving just like yours. 1 in 10 prints or so will have a successful 1st layer and the entire print will be beautiful. The other 9 don’t even make it past the first layer. It’s infuriating. Please keep me posted if you figure anything out.
Just printed a perfect large first layer on my plus4 machine that has been sitting off cold with a roll of pla that has been sitting on the machine for a couple weeks (so presumably not dry). No preheat. Nothing other than the auto bed levelling as normal before each print, zero z offset modification, generic pla filament settings etc. Just turned it on and printed from qidistudio. Could your issue be your slicer? or just a lemon unit. I have done a tonne of printing from mine in the past couple months and just replaced my nozzle and build plate but other than that, no issues. Even those items were not terrible and will be reserves.
I am actually using GCODE that Qidi support sent me and it intermittently works. We might have found a solution and when I announce, you probably are going to be extremely skeptical I know I was when Qidi suggested it. I am going to do a Part 2 update video this weekend. I am still testing because I am still skeptical why what I am doing is working and the results are actually perfect first layer when you inspect it
Is it possible that printing without the print head cover is the cause of the problems? The fan inside the print head is not working as it should. Hence the prints not sticking to the bed. Just a thought.
clean the build plate with washing up liquid, use a clean sponge dedicated to cleaning the build plate only. rinse with very hot water. Never use IPA (alcohol) to clean build plates. If you have used alcohol then your plate may need a few good scrubs.
Does your head have movement I believe Nozie had a video on the x gantry bearing the fix was to put a screw in the plastic housing against the bearing to take up the slack, looks like they originally intended to springs in there but decided not to. But if was movement in the head this would explain the constant height difference.
On the video it looks rather like a bad bed adhesion. Did you clean the build plate? I’m washing my build plate using dish soap and a hot water, before each print and never have an issue with adhesion.
I am hoping to do a follow up video this weekend for Part 2 with some updates. Hot water and dish soap with a final wipe down with alcohol which has worked on all my other printers. Only have to use adhesives for the "tougher" materials for printing to avoid lifting or warping issues.
I have done the auto-levelling but recalibrating the bed although a good idea for some situations, it won't be the one in this case. As noted, this printer randomly puts down proper first layers. I had a week of proper first layers. Nothing changed; the printer was not moved or had any configurations changed. Also it still intermittently puts down a proper first layer, if the bed calibration was out then it would NEVER ever get it right. The unit is failing at first layer lay down intermittently.
@@andyduffy2628 Have you tried increasing the initial layer height to 0.4mm? That help bed adhesion for me in my PLUS4 using PLA+. Also, I later tried a different 'spot/area' on my textured PEI plate. Default position is set at the center of the plate which I cleaned thoroughly (dish soap and rubbing alcohol) and that worsen the bed adhesion even set at 0.4mm for initial layer, maybe it's a bad plate I got. Anyhow, I flipped plate over and used the other 'new' side, and bed adhesion was good again. I haven't figured out a good way to clean the PEI plate yet though.
I have the Xmas 3 and plus 4 Seriously issues with xmax 3 almost gave up on it until I changed firmware a couple times and now it works flawless and I ended up buying a plus 4 .... don't know give up just reload latest firmware and if it doesn't work do it again .
HI, ANDY, I THINK MAYBE YOU SHOULD CONTACT OTHER PLUS4 USERS, THAT HAVE A LARGER AUDIENCE OR SUBSCRIBERS, THAT WILL SEE THE ISSUE AT HAND AND MAYBE QUDI WILL RESPOND AS THEY SHOULD. THIS ACTION MIGHT SEEM A LITTLE EXTREME BUT SOMETIMES WE THE CONSUMERS NEED TO HELP EACH OTHERS TO PROTECT OWER SELVES FROM THEM . ONE QUESTION TO YOU. HAVE YOU USED ANY GLUE OR SPRAY ON THE BUILD PLATE AT ALL. BECAUSE I WAS HAVING THE SAME ISSUE SOME TIMES.
I have been using other groups but this actually has helped with Qidi support and I will mention that in the Part 2 video I am hoping to do this weekend
Ive had my Plus 4 since right before Christmas and Im STILL trying to get quality prints out of it. I see the potential because on the parts it prints right, it looks fantastic, but on the parts it doesnt, it looks like shit. Ive run literally 3 kilograms of filament through it JUST in calibration things. My biggedt issue aside from transient VFA is this odd layer issue where it cant maintain the layer line thickness when printing detail. Hard to explain, easy to show, but its almost as if it under extrudes at random, ghost smears any embossed details across the print. Absolutely nothing Ive done has resolved it. Im coming from resin printing and this is my first FDM printer and honestly its shocking how half assed and kludge even these so called consumer grade FDM printers truly are in 2025 when compared to resin printers.
You can raise the z (table) the Z on the display. But man I had the same problems, and a lot more I also made video of mine problems. it is a piece of ....
Thats optional. Some people dont bother with it as once youve run all the calibrations and gotten it dialed in, you really dont need to keep wasting time leveling before every print. Level it when you have an issue, run it until you do.
I bought the QIDI plus 4 and after as couple of months, i bought a Bambu A1 and I prefer from far my Bambu A1. No problem with it at all. My QIDI give me headache. I could buy 3 Bambu A1 for the price of the QIDI plus 4.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Clean the build plate with soap and water, then use a glue stick. Fixes all the 1st layer adhesion problems you were having.
I am watching for updates, I am thinking about buying one of these.
A Qidi plus 4 owner here, I have seen that I have to run auto bed level at the temp you plan the bed to print at. My process is to heat soak the bed first for 30 minutes to an hour, then run the system bed calibration. If you go from pla to petg, or any of the more exotic filaments, you need to recalibrate the bed. I have found that the bed calibration works for give or take 10 degrees. Hope this helps.
I have had no issues with my Plus 4. I have manually adjusted bed to get the best bed calibration numbers for the entire bed, and also just let it be with a full auto bed calibration variation of .5+ (build plate had something under it) and still had perfect first layers and full prints. I have used pla, pla silk, abs, petg, asa-cf....and more that I can't remember.......all with no issues. You can literally just plug this thing in and get perfection. Something is wrong with your machine. Maybe have a look for something "obvious" such as loose parts etc. The print head has been reported to come loose on a few machines as I'm sure you have heard about in your research but double check everything. You look like you are having bed adhesion issues perhaps caused by z offset or bed temps. Why not do a manual bed calibration to ensure your nozzle is not too far away from the bed and also preheat the bed. I have not had to do this but I usually preheat anyway in order to get the best auto calibration before the print. It is best practice to preheat much longer than the time it takes to indicate the required temp especially with the plus 4 thick build plate. Not good customer service in my view. Qidi should be replacing the machine. Customers should not be expected to be expert trouble shooters, not to mention the wasted time and filament. You will be happy with it once you get what you paid for. Try preheat for 20 minutes, make sure you know your filament is dry, and print a large first layer sheet. No need to start printing anything beyond that until the first layer is perfect. Sometimes the first couple infill lines will be less than perfect so give it a few lines to know if it is failed or not and then just cancel if it doesn't get perfect. Also give your build plate a good soapy cleaning and a wipe down with windex before you do any of this. I expect none of this is news to you but just in case....
A buddy of mine has the Q1 and it prints perfectly every time for him. It prints so well he is scared to change anything and that includes updating the firmware. He has been so confused by my issues. I am going to do a follow up video this weekend
so you went from factory reset and immediately tried to do a print. I don't have one of these printers but I have been seeing a lot of good reviews and have been extremely interested ... Aren't you supposed to run through a whole calibration thing after a factory reset, where it autolevels, measures resonance, etc?
I was having similar issues and ended up being a faulty extruder which Qidi support shipped to me free of charge. I also had a poor experience with the textured PEI plate that came stock and upgraded to the high temp smooth plate, huge improvement to bed adhesion with PLA. I hope this helps, I know first hand how frustrating Qidi support is, I had to figure out the problem myself. but they were quick to send the replacement parts without any hassle. Once you get it fixed it is a great printer, good luck.
What information did you have to give them to get the extruder replaced?
@@AdamLoerts After many emails I was adamite that I felt the inconsistencies were caused by the extruder and they shipped it out without any hassle, after trying their suggestions, the same g code files they sent you. Like you I was very frustrated but I tried not to take it out on the person who was helping me. I have had no issues since replacing the extruder. When I removed it, it was obvious that was the problem, you could feel it when manually moving the gear wheels in comparison to the new one. I am believe this problem is more common than they realize.
Have you tried brushing a thin coat of pva liquid glue on the pei plate, and do you have v1.6 of the firmware installed? My Plus4 worked straight out of the box. I ran through the set up procedure, picked the Benchy, and it printed it. Nothing has ever lifted off the bed, and the prints are pretty much flawless, just need to find a couple of settings in Studio to adjust. Your pei plate looks different to mine, maybe a different texture?
It is the textured plate, which are usually the best plates for good adhesion. And on that note, glue sticks, hair spray and other adhesive products are used to improve the adhesion process not fix first layer z-offset issues. In the past 3D manufacturers used to use glass beds because their adhesion properties were beyond amazing, but that was their problem, you had a heck of a time of getting the print off the bed because it stuck so good. In the video I show a proper first layer calibration on the Prusa MK3S. The only reason to use an adhesive product is to eliminate potential lifting later in the print, like in the second layer where it starts to lift and warp. This is the reason people use it for the exotic filaments. PLA and PETG don't fall in that category.
@@andyduffy2628 Not the only reason people use gluesticks, but you should never need one for PLA. Sometimes used as a release agent.
@@andyduffy2628 I had horrible adhesion issues at first because my bed temps were too low and my z offset was wrong. With PLA my initial bed temp is 60 then down to 50 for the rest, fan off for first layer. My z-offset ended up being 0.034-0.04 depending on if its the pla+ or silk PLA. Some people have said that QIDI sometimes forgets the z-offset so theres a way to edit it in the printer config file so its permanent, might want to look into that s you may be experiencing that issue. My first layer is always at 30mm/s wall, 150mm/s infill and I run it fairly thick at 0.16 layers my first layer is actually 0.2 since I dont print super critical dimensional parts yet Im not worried about the first layer being slightly thicker. Havent had a single first layer failure now in several dozen prints.
3 months in, and I will be buying another brand. Beyond frustrated at this point. My issues are similar, but on mine, the bed keeps getting closer to the nozzle. When new, it printed great. First sign of trouble was when i tried to print some high temp nylon. It took a while to realize, but much like your prints, the nozzle was too far off the bed. So i decreased the Z heigh, and got an ok print. subsiquent prints stuck, and seemed fine, but then out of nowhere, i had pretty bad elephants foot. Swapping back to ASA-cf, i had to set the Z at +0.047, that seemed to work for quite a while, and lfe was good, prints were looking great. Then every other print started failing, for one reason or another. Thinking it was a filament issue ( i was using CF filament at the time ) i swapped in a 0.6mm nozzle. Then things just got stupid. It started jamming the print down so hard, I scratched up the bed pretty good just trying to get the prints off. I had to resort to melting the ASA with acetone, every time, just to start with a clean plate. One long night of adjusting the Z to 0.06, then 0.08, then 0.1, 0.12, 0.14, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4... and every time, print mashed down so hard i had to go midevil to get the plate clean. I gave up, turned it off and walked away for a week.
Just ccame back to it today with a fresh new and well dried roll of ASA . Did several flow tests, and settled in on a 0.95 flow rate and a Z offset of 0.16 ( that seems really like a lot for a machine that should do auto Z.... ) . 2 very short prints later, as i was decreasing the flow rate to get a better top layer, and got hit with massive elephants foot and another round of build plate butchery to get the purge lines off. So, I set the Z to 0.2, and reprinted the same file. yep, elephant foot is better but not gone, so guessing Z= =0.2 needs to now be 0.22 to 0.26.... its inconsistent, to say the least. Qidi has yet to respond to any of the 3 emails i have sent about the chamber heater board, so i doubt they will respond to my last one requesting a refund. To be clear, they have sent an auto generated responce pointing me to the wiki every time i email, but i have yet to get a responce from a real person.
Beyond pissed off. Ill give them a week, if I haven't heard back i will make it my goal to warn everyone what a crap product and crap compay Qidi offers/os.
So I am having this experience almost exactly. First 48 hours of printing were amazing. I’ve actually had many other problems as well, a dead heater chamber fan, corrupted eMMC, and of course several clogs. Having fixed most of it mine is behaving just like yours. 1 in 10 prints or so will have a successful 1st layer and the entire print will be beautiful. The other 9 don’t even make it past the first layer. It’s infuriating. Please keep me posted if you figure anything out.
Just printed a perfect large first layer on my plus4 machine that has been sitting off cold with a roll of pla that has been sitting on the machine for a couple weeks (so presumably not dry). No preheat. Nothing other than the auto bed levelling as normal before each print, zero z offset modification, generic pla filament settings etc. Just turned it on and printed from qidistudio. Could your issue be your slicer? or just a lemon unit. I have done a tonne of printing from mine in the past couple months and just replaced my nozzle and build plate but other than that, no issues. Even those items were not terrible and will be reserves.
I am actually using GCODE that Qidi support sent me and it intermittently works. We might have found a solution and when I announce, you probably are going to be extremely skeptical I know I was when Qidi suggested it. I am going to do a Part 2 update video this weekend. I am still testing because I am still skeptical why what I am doing is working and the results are actually perfect first layer when you inspect it
Is it possible that printing without the print head cover is the cause of the problems? The fan inside the print head is not working as it should. Hence the prints not sticking to the bed. Just a thought.
clean the build plate with washing up liquid, use a clean sponge dedicated to cleaning the build plate only. rinse with very hot water. Never use IPA (alcohol) to clean build plates. If you have used alcohol then your plate may need a few good scrubs.
Can you request a charge back on your payment card? That'll perk Qidi up a little.....
Does your head have movement I believe Nozie had a video on the x gantry bearing the fix was to put a screw in the plastic housing against the bearing to take up the slack, looks like they originally intended to springs in there but decided not to. But if was movement in the head this would explain the constant height difference.
On the video it looks rather like a bad bed adhesion. Did you clean the build plate? I’m washing my build plate using dish soap and a hot water, before each print and never have an issue with adhesion.
I am hoping to do a follow up video this weekend for Part 2 with some updates. Hot water and dish soap with a final wipe down with alcohol which has worked on all my other printers. Only have to use adhesives for the "tougher" materials for printing to avoid lifting or warping issues.
I may have missed something, but it looks like bed adhesion issues.
Hello, I didit see the calibration proceess on that video. Did you make the calibration and bed leveling?
I have done the auto-levelling but recalibrating the bed although a good idea for some situations, it won't be the one in this case. As noted, this printer randomly puts down proper first layers. I had a week of proper first layers. Nothing changed; the printer was not moved or had any configurations changed. Also it still intermittently puts down a proper first layer, if the bed calibration was out then it would NEVER ever get it right. The unit is failing at first layer lay down intermittently.
@@andyduffy2628 Have you tried increasing the initial layer height to 0.4mm? That help bed adhesion for me in my PLUS4 using PLA+. Also, I later tried a different 'spot/area' on my textured PEI plate. Default position is set at the center of the plate which I cleaned thoroughly (dish soap and rubbing alcohol) and that worsen the bed adhesion even set at 0.4mm for initial layer, maybe it's a bad plate I got. Anyhow, I flipped plate over and used the other 'new' side, and bed adhesion was good again. I haven't figured out a good way to clean the PEI plate yet though.
As shitty as it sounds this is why i bought mine from Amazon. Returns are no where this difficult.
I have the Xmas 3 and plus 4
Seriously issues with xmax 3 almost gave up on it until I changed firmware a couple times and now it works flawless and I ended up buying a plus 4 .... don't know give up just reload latest firmware and if it doesn't work do it again .
HI, ANDY, I THINK MAYBE YOU SHOULD CONTACT OTHER PLUS4 USERS, THAT HAVE A LARGER AUDIENCE OR SUBSCRIBERS, THAT WILL SEE THE ISSUE AT HAND AND MAYBE QUDI WILL RESPOND AS THEY SHOULD. THIS ACTION MIGHT SEEM A LITTLE EXTREME BUT SOMETIMES WE THE CONSUMERS NEED TO HELP EACH OTHERS TO PROTECT OWER SELVES FROM THEM . ONE QUESTION TO YOU. HAVE YOU USED ANY GLUE OR SPRAY ON THE BUILD PLATE AT ALL. BECAUSE I WAS HAVING THE SAME ISSUE SOME TIMES.
I have been using other groups but this actually has helped with Qidi support and I will mention that in the Part 2 video I am hoping to do this weekend
Ive had my Plus 4 since right before Christmas and Im STILL trying to get quality prints out of it. I see the potential because on the parts it prints right, it looks fantastic, but on the parts it doesnt, it looks like shit. Ive run literally 3 kilograms of filament through it JUST in calibration things. My biggedt issue aside from transient VFA is this odd layer issue where it cant maintain the layer line thickness when printing detail. Hard to explain, easy to show, but its almost as if it under extrudes at random, ghost smears any embossed details across the print. Absolutely nothing Ive done has resolved it. Im coming from resin printing and this is my first FDM printer and honestly its shocking how half assed and kludge even these so called consumer grade FDM printers truly are in 2025 when compared to resin printers.
You can raise the z (table) the Z on the display. But man I had the same problems, and a lot more I also made video of mine problems. it is a piece of ....
Disappointing at that price point. Bed adhesion seems to be hit and miss. Can you measure the bed temperature? Bad sensor?
Going to do a follow up video this weekend and I actually ran a thermal scan of the bed. It is remarkably consistent actually.
Looks like you have screwed up something in the settings because it is not running the auto bed leveling before printing.
Thats optional. Some people dont bother with it as once youve run all the calibrations and gotten it dialed in, you really dont need to keep wasting time leveling before every print. Level it when you have an issue, run it until you do.
Mine prints perfect. Never had better results....
Send it back
What a rough deal. Keep at them and get a bambu. You will be a happy printer.
I bought the QIDI plus 4 and after as couple of months, i bought a Bambu A1 and I prefer from far my Bambu A1. No problem with it at all. My QIDI give me headache. I could buy 3 Bambu A1 for the price of the QIDI plus 4.
operator error.