The one on the left? www.mcmaster.com/swing-hinges/360-friction-hinges/ Or you could make one out of a piano hinge. Looking at it though, it would be nice if the doors could somehow open down and lock, and make a little temporary shelf. That might be easier with doweling and routed channels.
Those would actually work, provided each flat section with the holes in it lies flush with the surface (I've seen lots like this where the flat bit sticks out of the middle of the pivot bit, on the assumption that the pivot will be vertical in the space between the two parts being hinged) - but if it's flat (and therefore the pivot bulging out from the flat surface) then that would work.
Piano hinge wouldn't work, still hinges the wrong way. I could cut it but I'd end up with too few mounting holes on the thin bits of the cupboard front due to width restrictions, hence needing vertical holes (if that makes sense)
@@Vandemonium If you want a hinge in the bottom of the door but don't want to use vertical holes maybe these kind of hinges www.jula.se/catalog/bygg-och-farg/beslag/fonster-dorrbeslag/dorr-fonstergangjarn/lyftgangjarn-343431/. That type is available as small ones in brass, but don't ask me were, and it is a gamble. What you do is that you split the hinges and combine A to A and B to B, not A to B as intended.
For a guy that has said in the past that you aren't very handy, you're actually very handy. Between Cruisin the Cut and Vandemonium you're proving yourself wrong. Cheers, David. Thanks for all the hours of quality content.
Love your videos David! I have been following you since your early Cut videos. I love your enthusiasm for these projects and I know how frustrating it can get! You take it in stride and don't let it defeat you, and that is a great attitude to have - plus great entertainment for the masses! I know you love hindsight, so here is a little for future projects from a 25 year automotive mechanic, or engineer for you guys across the pond! 😁 Next time you use spade connectors in any project that requires them, stagger the male and females one each side of the joint. That way they can only be reconnected with the correct polarity. Same goes for bullet terminals. You can also stagger the lengths from side to side to reduce the profile of thr joint. You should avoid friction connectors like spade and bullet in any automotive application. If you need a disconnect, there are several types of connectors out there much more suitable, such as a deutsch connectors. Butt connectors really should be used for all "permanent" installation. Even if you have to break the connection, it is cheap and easy enough to just replace the butt splice. Watching you struggle with that ceiling, I know you certainly don't want to have to chase bad connections. A permanent crimped splice will let you sleep at night! I heard you in an earlier video say something abou soldering. Always use compression connections in automotive applications. Never solder/wrap. Compression fittings deal with vibration much better than hard solder joints. There are instances you will have to solder, but avoid it at all cost. Again, love all your videos! I had forgotten you started this channel and I'm glad I found it! -Ben in Arkansas
Hi there this is Dave can I make suggestion when you pull a wire out ofducting tire piece of string to it cos you never know if you need to pull the why back againit just makes life easier and if you don't need to you can always call the piece of string out or leave it in there for future project
David, it's so refreshing to see how you are so staunchly dedicated to finishing what you start no matter how labor-intensive and complicated! Kudos!!!! So many people would have given up and hired the work out!
Much as I still bang the drum for Cruising the Cut I think I slightly prefer this channel 😯 it's like my Davey Johns fix combined with my DIY conversion project fix 😅 I love a person who instead of paying for something to be done thinks "if I just bought the tools and taught myself then it will be interesting and I will have learned a new skill" 🙂
Your videos make me happy. I am always delighted when a new one comes out. Sometimes I wait a bit to enjoy the anticipation of pleasure. You may run into difficulties, but you continue on. Thank you for sharing.
David, as you were feeding the wire back out of the channel I thought, "I hope he put a piece of tape on it with a note to what it's for." Sure enough the piece of tape came into frame a moment later. Well done.
The type of hinge mechanism that you need is easy enough to make from scratch... All you'll need is a couple of small blocks of wood and a round metal bar (cut off nail would work) to act as the hinge pin for each side... This will result in the pivot point of the hinge being slightly below the top of the opening, but that shouldn't matter since you already have the cabinet door knob blocking the opening slightly anyway... Drill holes in the blocks of wood that are large enough for the rod / nail to slip into and then mount the blocks of wood on the back side of the cabinet face and the door face... You could also do the same thing with two small pieces of angle iron for each side with a hole drilled in them at the pivot point and then a small nut and bolt used as the hinge pin...
I think it's the fact they hinge so close to the ceiling is the problem. If you'd have made the top like the bottom I not only think it wood have looked better ( the same size margin all around ) but you would have been able to select from a wider range of hinges. This can still be done using the wood you have if you can live with the two saw cut's. You would cut an inch or so off the tops of the doors, secure those then hinge to them. You could nicely/carefully fill and sand the two saw cuts then paint over and/or finish with a piece of trim that's easily removed and covers the top parts of the hinges. You would need to rebate for the hinges so the trim fits tight against the wood. Not sure if this will make sense to you, I could email you a sketch if you like.
It makes perfect sense, cheers! I could never live with bodging the existing facia with filler etc to make up what you describe but certainly having smaller doors that don't extend from the top would be what I'd do in the re-make version
@@Vandemonium I think you have made the right decision. You can use what you take off for a template since you already took the time to make that fit 👍
It's reassuring to see that I'm not the only one to have minor upsets when tackling jobs of that nature David. You have some very classy tools as well.
You know those sliding tile puzzles where you have to shuffle the pieces around in a complex pattern to turn chaos into an ordered picture? Yes you do, those little plastic novelty toy thingies. Well, this kind of job is what I call a sliding tile job: in order to do the job you have to move something else, and to do that you have to remove the wottsit, and that means unplugging the doohickey, and that means shifting the whatchamacallit, and to do that you have to... Still, it’ll only take half an hour. 😄
It's a bit like having a clear-out - first of all, you have to make a space, but to make a space you need somewhere to put the things that are in the space - - -
Here's two suggested hinges. (Search Google for "butterfly pivot hinges") The one from Richelieu is likely the best choice, but have a look... 1. Richelieu Door Hinge - 58 x 38 mm - 2/pqt - Zinc Article #3306338 Item #051031479 Model #BP812422G 2. Deltana (via WayFair) Pivot Door Hinge - 3.9"×1.7" - Various
I admire your patience and tenacity...because if I had to remove all that to complete my original job...well, it wouldn't be pretty...air would be blue...sparks flying everywhere...neighbors covering the ears of their kiddies...and of course, inevitably....Ka BOOOM...an electrical fire of epic proportions...LOL!
how about turning frankenshelf upside down? then the doirs will be flaps and a piano hinge could solve it! (just a thought!) well done with the wiring btw!
Cheers Dean - I bought some steel rods and wooden blocks exactly as you suggest but made a poor job of lining up the holes (and also accidentally bought too-small rods)
Nice job, you have to like it, bc your sleeping in it. You done better then I would. Keep practicing, you'll get it done one way or another. Be safe & happy camping, Chris from Missouri
You might want to try pin hinge, Simplex Concealed Hinge, Roto Hinge or Center Pivot Hinges if you're so inclined. Thanks for making me think outside the box, nice little challenge.
I've seen this hinge you describe in old RV's. The door is mounted at the top (x axis) via a simple hinge and to hold it open another apparatus is mounted on the left or right (y axis) vertical line of the door. The holder is two pieces each inside mounted, one on the cabinet the other on the door. The door mounted piece has a small shaft attached to it, this shaft rides in a loop extending from the cabinet mounted piece and with a change in shape at the end of this shaft (where it extends into the cabinet while closed) say a large hole and a small hole it drops into place and holds the door open. Vintage RV parts or maybe sailing vessels could be a place to find these. They don't wear out.
Just an observation, David. I notice, on one of the pairs of wires going up to the roof, you've used a Red spade connector (for +12v) and a Blue spade connector (0v/Ground). The colour of those connectors denotes the size of wire that they can accomodate, not Red for positive and Blue for negative. The Red connectors are the smallest and Blue are larger. Yellow being the largest. So, basically, they should both either be blue or red. (Nit-picking, I know! Apologies).
What about using some dowling rod and a few plastic P clips, either fix the rod onto the door and use the clips on the sold panel, or fix the rod to solid panel and use some P clips on the door.
small struts would do what you want. but personally i think four magnets would be easier and cheaper. plus then the doors arent ever in the way and you have little writting tables(or whatever else you need a flat piece of wood for). just a thought. Have A Pleasant Day
Fo the hinges could you use right angle brackets with a regular hinge, use a nut/bolt to attach the hinge to one part of the angle bracket and the other half fixes to the side of the cabinet as required, should be strong enough.
There are two types of hinge which would suit your needs. If you are using 18 mm material look for concealed hinges (full overlay) Your cupboard door thickness looks to be about 9mm, if so, wrap around hinges will do the job. The latter are very effective with built in self closing spring. When using a type of hinge that you are not familiar with, first mount it onto a piece of scrap timber wich is the same thicknes as your door, so that you can experiment.
You could use a small brass bolt, the type you use to keep a door closed. You could use 2 bolts per door, screw the bolts to the door and the keeper to the frame.
Cheers Gerald; I did consider that for a while but would want the bolts on the inside and I have discovered that since I made the cupboards extend up to the top, they push against the ceiling slightly when opening, if the pivot is on the inside; thus the pivot needs to be on the outside and I wouldn't want the bolts showing.
If you are going to be changing this, you might try a strip of canvas (or other heavy cloth) to act as a hinge. You could just glue it on to both surround and door.
A block hinge will do what you want, but due to its usual usage you'll have to have some screwheads on the face of the wood. Alternatively, you might find a flag hinge that'll do the job, but you'll need one that's inverted (one flag in each direction).
Examples... Block hinge: www.jetpress.com/component-and-fastener-products/lift-off-block-hinges - this should work out of the box, but it will be a bit awkward. Because it's lift off, you'll effectively be using it in the wrong orientation, and forcing the inner hinges to "clamp" the doors into place. Do it too tight and they will bind, too loose and the door could fall off or move from side to side! If you can drill mild steel, a flag hinge like this will work: juststainless.co.uk/product/3-inch-lift-off-hinge-left-hand/?attribute_size=76%20x%2090mm&attribute_pa_grade=304&attribute_pa_finish=see-image&attribute_pa_material=stainless-steel Again, it's lift off so you'll need to get your alignment to within a centimeter or so but shouldn't be too hard. If you want something widely available that'll work, and have access to an angle grinder or dremel, this flag hinge would work if you chop off the flaglike bits: www.screwfix.com/p/eclipse-satin-stainless-steel-lift-off-hinge-102-x-89mm-2-pack/43866 - again it's a lift-off, but again it can be made to work!
Those first block hinges look great; all the ones I found like that were "weld on" which is no use on woodwork. I will have a further look at those, cheers! The trouble with most flag hinges is that the flat part comes out of the centre of the pin so it won't lie flush with the woodwork (hope that makes sense) I like the Screwfix option if I could cut them neatly, though I'd prefer something that didn't look hacked about (which I suspect it would if I did it).
use a thin welding wire and make two brackets to hold the wire to the lid and then two more brackets to hold the wire to the side of the cupboards. you can place the pivot point where ever you want then.
Seems more of a hassle to redo then do initially. It takes a great amount of patience and causes exasperation from not having done the project right in the first place. However, you have discovered areas that need attention ie the insulation tape, and the wires possibly rubbing against the side of the hole.
'Centre pivot hinge' seems to be what your describing, but the ones I know off are fastened to framework not the face. So in effect you'd need framework on the inside of the door and the panel... Which put like that probably makes no sense at all!
I had to laugh when after 1 and 3/4ths of video, you were in exactly the same place as you were to begin with (minus the ducting of course). Looking forward to more home improvements though. The van life stuff seems to have really taken off this year!
I had a look at lots of those and they'd almost work but a lot of the designs were such that I'd need to hacksaw the hinge a bit and I was hoping not to do that.
What about just making the doors hinge sideways or making two smaller doors per hole in front panel to make side hinging double doors per hole (seperate cupboard). Kind of like normal kitchen cupboards.
Yeah, if I was going to re-make it, that's what I'd do. I have forced the existing setup to work for me now, I'll do a follow-up video soon when I've varnished it and popped it all in place.
make your own hinge with 2 pieces of wood and a nail :D and then just glue and nail wood to cabinet and door and it should work ok (just make sure to make it so that nail can get out so you can dismantle it if needed)
No, it won't because there's nothing to connect the hinge too, the ceiling panel is too thin and weak, plus the sloping line of the roof would mean hinges wouldn't work there.
This type of hinge is attached to the side rails and to the side of the door. They do not attach to the ceiling. Just google `lift up top sprung door hinge`.
www.pinterest.com/pin/489696159457803825/ example of an install with nice diagram, it will work and as it hinges at the top (side attached) it will allow full access to the cupboard. It will also work on the cupboards that are not parallel at the top. Just measure up from the bottom sonthe hinges are at the same height each side.
6:20 No mate, you want to snap a plastic grommet around the entry hole for the wires too. Vhich vill entail threading the grommet all the way along the route of the wiring. Nah, kidding ya. The plastic hose you have is fine
Have you ever thought of using heavy duty velcro strips for the repeated off and on paneling etc? You have that kind of voice that would have been excellent on the serial radio programs of old. Not that I was there but have heard them. I know you were in radio.
When you pull an old wire out, tie a piece of waxed string to it first. Pull the string into the space where the wire previously hung out with its friends. Leave the string in place. That way you'll have an easier job if you need to run a new wire through there at a later date. It's much easier to pull the new wire through with the string than it is to try to push the new wire through. :-)
I would suggest a Piano hinge if you wanted to use the shelve. That could be hidden easily across the top. That being said, you hated it so hey make something you will enjoy.
Unfortunately, the slope of the roof (matching that of the van) means a piano hinge wouldn't work. If I'd made the doors smaller within the facia, and level at the top, it would!
There is one thing that struck me after a wail, if you hang the door as described it will want to "list". To prevent that you will need to fit some kind of stopper, and you didn't like pieces of wood on the inside (or outside) becoming visible when opening.
@@Vandemonium It depends on how you intend to secure the door from unintentionally swinging. You would not only have to prevent it from swinging open but also stop it from swinging inwards, this because the pivot point is of set from the centre of gravity so you will have a moment arm tending to rotate the door by gravity.
I imagine the knobs on the flappy cubbyhole doors will be annoying since they will contact the ceiling and make the door open almost but not quite perpendicular to the ceiling
Maybe you could just use P clips, use one on either end of the door flap holding a single rod between them to keep things aligned and two more P clips on the door frame as pivot points. Might be a little too low budget though. I see someone beat me to it.
Re cupboard hinges again:- have a look for 'pivot hinges' and also 'knife hinges' . I came across them on the web and in some form they might do what you want - not as simple as the flag type though :o/
Would you be able to replace the three upward swinging doors with two sliding doors, that would require no hinges? One would slid behind the other and expose whatever divided space you have set up.
What a brute you are!!😊 Maybe you might get a carpenters license after all this....or at least a engineers license...I think you may have earned it!! Time for a cuppa and cheese sammie...stay safe..😊
Cheers. I did think about that, like a lot of the cabinet doors in the van but decided I really want hinged ones, else you have to keep finding somewhere to put the door
I admire your persistence, or more accurately, your perseverance. Even though I know nothing about what you are doing it seems interesting as you explain your process and reasons. Enjoyed the vlog, thanks for sharing.
The one on the left?
www.mcmaster.com/swing-hinges/360-friction-hinges/
Or you could make one out of a piano hinge.
Looking at it though, it would be nice if the doors could somehow open down and lock, and make a little temporary shelf. That might be easier with doweling and routed channels.
Those would actually work, provided each flat section with the holes in it lies flush with the surface (I've seen lots like this where the flat bit sticks out of the middle of the pivot bit, on the assumption that the pivot will be vertical in the space between the two parts being hinged) - but if it's flat (and therefore the pivot bulging out from the flat surface) then that would work.
Piano hinge wouldn't work, still hinges the wrong way. I could cut it but I'd end up with too few mounting holes on the thin bits of the cupboard front due to width restrictions, hence needing vertical holes (if that makes sense)
@@Vandemonium If you want a hinge in the bottom of the door but don't want to use vertical holes maybe these kind of hinges www.jula.se/catalog/bygg-och-farg/beslag/fonster-dorrbeslag/dorr-fonstergangjarn/lyftgangjarn-343431/. That type is available as small ones in brass, but don't ask me were, and it is a gamble. What you do is that you split the hinges and combine A to A and B to B, not A to B as intended.
Oooh nice!
piano hinge pretty hefty
For a guy that has said in the past that you aren't very handy, you're actually very handy. Between Cruisin the Cut and Vandemonium you're proving yourself wrong. Cheers, David. Thanks for all the hours of quality content.
Love your videos David! I have been following you since your early Cut videos. I love your enthusiasm for these projects and I know how frustrating it can get! You take it in stride and don't let it defeat you, and that is a great attitude to have - plus great entertainment for the masses!
I know you love hindsight, so here is a little for future projects from a 25 year automotive mechanic, or engineer for you guys across the pond! 😁
Next time you use spade connectors in any project that requires them, stagger the male and females one each side of the joint. That way they can only be reconnected with the correct polarity. Same goes for bullet terminals. You can also stagger the lengths from side to side to reduce the profile of thr joint.
You should avoid friction connectors like spade and bullet in any automotive application. If you need a disconnect, there are several types of connectors out there much more suitable, such as a deutsch connectors. Butt connectors really should be used for all "permanent" installation. Even if you have to break the connection, it is cheap and easy enough to just replace the butt splice. Watching you struggle with that ceiling, I know you certainly don't want to have to chase bad connections. A permanent crimped splice will let you sleep at night!
I heard you in an earlier video say something abou soldering. Always use compression connections in automotive applications. Never solder/wrap. Compression fittings deal with vibration much better than hard solder joints. There are instances you will have to solder, but avoid it at all cost.
Again, love all your videos! I had forgotten you started this channel and I'm glad I found it!
-Ben in Arkansas
Thank you, I appreciate those tips - good advice 👍👍
Hi there this is Dave can I make suggestion when you pull a wire out ofducting tire piece of string to it cos you never know if you need to pull the why back againit just makes life easier and if you don't need to you can always call the piece of string out or leave it in there for future project
David, it's so refreshing to see how you are so staunchly dedicated to finishing what you start no matter how labor-intensive and complicated! Kudos!!!! So many people would have given up and hired the work out!
Much as I still bang the drum for Cruising the Cut I think I slightly prefer this channel 😯 it's like my Davey Johns fix combined with my DIY conversion project fix 😅 I love a person who instead of paying for something to be done thinks "if I just bought the tools and taught myself then it will be interesting and I will have learned a new skill" 🙂
And any excuse to buy new tools!
Good timing David, just sitting down with a cuppa. Ah bliss. Thanks a lot.
Remodeling a van or house is always the same full of surprises. Good. Luck . I like to watch you do the work been there done that. Thanks take care
Your videos make me happy. I am always delighted when a new one comes out. Sometimes I wait a bit to enjoy the anticipation of pleasure. You may run into difficulties, but you continue on. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you
David, as you were feeding the wire back out of the channel I thought, "I hope he put a piece of tape on it with a note to what it's for." Sure enough the piece of tape came into frame a moment later. Well done.
Yes, I had those notes on right from the start!
The type of hinge mechanism that you need is easy enough to make from scratch... All you'll need is a couple of small blocks of wood and a round metal bar (cut off nail would work) to act as the hinge pin for each side... This will result in the pivot point of the hinge being slightly below the top of the opening, but that shouldn't matter since you already have the cabinet door knob blocking the opening slightly anyway... Drill holes in the blocks of wood that are large enough for the rod / nail to slip into and then mount the blocks of wood on the back side of the cabinet face and the door face...
You could also do the same thing with two small pieces of angle iron for each side with a hole drilled in them at the pivot point and then a small nut and bolt used as the hinge pin...
See the later video!
Love the crimped fan connectors
I think it's the fact they hinge so close to the ceiling is the problem. If you'd have made the top like the bottom I not only think it wood have looked better ( the same size margin all around ) but you would have been able to select from a wider range of hinges.
This can still be done using the wood you have if you can live with the two saw cut's.
You would cut an inch or so off the tops of the doors, secure those then hinge to them.
You could nicely/carefully fill and sand the two saw cuts then paint over and/or finish with a piece of trim that's easily removed and covers the top parts of the hinges. You would need to rebate for the hinges so the trim fits tight against the wood.
Not sure if this will make sense to you, I could email you a sketch if you like.
It makes perfect sense, cheers! I could never live with bodging the existing facia with filler etc to make up what you describe but certainly having smaller doors that don't extend from the top would be what I'd do in the re-make version
@@Vandemonium I think you have made the right decision. You can use what you take off for a template since you already took the time to make that fit 👍
I think your cupboard hinges may be found in the Fourth Dimension, only.
Oh chap!! You remind me, of me, whenever I try to do some DIY!! Great video!!
Thanks 👍
It's reassuring to see that I'm not the only one to have minor upsets when tackling jobs of that nature David. You have some very classy tools as well.
Cup of coffee and... ah, a new video, good timing! I just put up the Christmas lights, that's enough wiring for me :-)
My goodness what a work. What a patience you have. Your hard work will pay off. It will be a masterpiece. Thank you for sharing
You know those sliding tile puzzles where you have to shuffle the pieces around in a complex pattern to turn chaos into an ordered picture? Yes you do, those little plastic novelty toy thingies. Well, this kind of job is what I call a sliding tile job: in order to do the job you have to move something else, and to do that you have to remove the wottsit, and that means unplugging the doohickey, and that means shifting the whatchamacallit, and to do that you have to...
Still, it’ll only take half an hour. 😄
Yes! It's exactly that
It's a bit like having a clear-out - first of all, you have to make a space, but to make a space you need somewhere to put the things that are in the space - - -
Here's two suggested hinges. (Search Google for "butterfly pivot hinges") The one from Richelieu is likely the best choice, but have a look...
1. Richelieu
Door Hinge - 58 x 38 mm - 2/pqt - Zinc
Article #3306338 Item #051031479 Model #BP812422G
2. Deltana (via WayFair)
Pivot Door Hinge - 3.9"×1.7" - Various
I would use a dowel across the inside top of the doors and into the sides then they would pivot slightly lower than the top edge.
Having followed this whole project I can only admire your hard work and effort. I would have ended up in tears, or tiers, or both probably.
I admire your patience and tenacity...because if I had to remove all that to complete my original job...well, it wouldn't be pretty...air would be blue...sparks flying everywhere...neighbors covering the ears of their kiddies...and of course, inevitably....Ka BOOOM...an electrical fire of epic proportions...LOL!
3:55 Nice to see all your switches clearly labelled ;)
Excellent David
Ta
...is it appropriate to say “BRILLIANT?”
Pulling down, re-running wires, putting all back in the orginal place can be a nightmare. You did well...
how about turning frankenshelf upside down? then the doirs will be flaps and a piano hinge could solve it! (just a thought!)
well done with the wiring btw!
Ha! The slope of the van roof means the cupboards are one-way up only.
We make hinged doors like you are trying to do by just using wooden blocks and steel rods. Nice and simple and strong
Cheers Dean - I bought some steel rods and wooden blocks exactly as you suggest but made a poor job of lining up the holes (and also accidentally bought too-small rods)
@@Vandemonium send pics!! do i need to come and build some for you?
Nice job, you have to like it, bc your sleeping in it. You done better then I would.
Keep practicing, you'll get it done one way or another.
Be safe & happy camping,
Chris from Missouri
looks like you had a lot of fun doing it
Another enjoyable episode
You might want to try pin hinge, Simplex Concealed Hinge, Roto Hinge or Center Pivot Hinges if you're so inclined. Thanks for making me think outside the box, nice little challenge.
I've seen this hinge you describe in old RV's. The door is mounted at the top (x axis) via a simple hinge and to hold it open another apparatus is mounted on the left or right (y axis) vertical line of the door. The holder is two pieces each inside mounted, one on the cabinet the other on the door. The door mounted piece has a small shaft attached to it, this shaft rides in a loop extending from the cabinet mounted piece and with a change in shape at the end of this shaft (where it extends into the cabinet while closed) say a large hole and a small hole it drops into place and holds the door open. Vintage RV parts or maybe sailing vessels could be a place to find these. They don't wear out.
Good luck David! Looks good, and I see a lot of possible solutions in the comments! Cheers!
You’re so freaking funny “The Frankenshelf” ha ha ha
Just an observation, David. I notice, on one of the pairs of wires going up to the roof, you've used a Red spade connector (for +12v) and a Blue spade connector (0v/Ground). The colour of those connectors denotes the size of wire that they can accomodate, not Red for positive and Blue for negative. The Red connectors are the smallest and Blue are larger. Yellow being the largest. So, basically, they should both either be blue or red. (Nit-picking, I know! Apologies).
Hi. Cheers but they’re the same size
What about using some dowling rod and a few plastic P clips, either fix the rod onto the door and use the clips on the sold panel, or fix the rod to solid panel and use some P clips on the door.
You know that might work - and I’ve got lots of dowel rods left over from building the van in the first place
I held my breath until the light actually switched on!
small struts would do what you want. but personally i think four magnets would be easier and cheaper. plus then the doors arent ever in the way and you have little writting tables(or whatever else you need a flat piece of wood for). just a thought.
Have A Pleasant Day
Fo the hinges could you use right angle brackets with a regular hinge, use a nut/bolt to attach the hinge to one part of the angle bracket and the other half fixes to the side of the cabinet as required, should be strong enough.
There are two types of hinge which would suit your needs. If you are using 18 mm material look
for concealed hinges (full overlay) Your cupboard door thickness looks to be about 9mm, if so,
wrap around hinges will do the job. The latter are very effective with built in self closing spring.
When using a type of hinge that you are not familiar with, first mount it onto a piece of scrap timber
wich is the same thicknes as your door, so that you can experiment.
Hi nice to see you having a good time doing it but I would look in poundland as I got some from there for me to do a job 😀
Great job and even greater to see so many hinges suggestions. I was about to search McMaster but someone already did.
Some great work carried out on this vlog David......well explained.....stay safe.....thanks for sharing
Thanks 👍
You could use a small brass bolt, the type you use to keep a door closed. You could use 2 bolts per door, screw the bolts to the door and the keeper to the frame.
Cheers Gerald; I did consider that for a while but would want the bolts on the inside and I have discovered that since I made the cupboards extend up to the top, they push against the ceiling slightly when opening, if the pivot is on the inside; thus the pivot needs to be on the outside and I wouldn't want the bolts showing.
a pivot hinge as used on things like vanity mirrors might work
So fun to watch you!
If you are going to be changing this, you might try a strip of canvas (or other heavy cloth) to act as a hinge. You could just glue it on to both surround and door.
I rather like that idea!
A block hinge will do what you want, but due to its usual usage you'll have to have some screwheads on the face of the wood. Alternatively, you might find a flag hinge that'll do the job, but you'll need one that's inverted (one flag in each direction).
Examples... Block hinge: www.jetpress.com/component-and-fastener-products/lift-off-block-hinges - this should work out of the box, but it will be a bit awkward. Because it's lift off, you'll effectively be using it in the wrong orientation, and forcing the inner hinges to "clamp" the doors into place. Do it too tight and they will bind, too loose and the door could fall off or move from side to side!
If you can drill mild steel, a flag hinge like this will work: juststainless.co.uk/product/3-inch-lift-off-hinge-left-hand/?attribute_size=76%20x%2090mm&attribute_pa_grade=304&attribute_pa_finish=see-image&attribute_pa_material=stainless-steel Again, it's lift off so you'll need to get your alignment to within a centimeter or so but shouldn't be too hard.
If you want something widely available that'll work, and have access to an angle grinder or dremel, this flag hinge would work if you chop off the flaglike bits: www.screwfix.com/p/eclipse-satin-stainless-steel-lift-off-hinge-102-x-89mm-2-pack/43866 - again it's a lift-off, but again it can be made to work!
Those first block hinges look great; all the ones I found like that were "weld on" which is no use on woodwork. I will have a further look at those, cheers!
The trouble with most flag hinges is that the flat part comes out of the centre of the pin so it won't lie flush with the woodwork (hope that makes sense)
I like the Screwfix option if I could cut them neatly, though I'd prefer something that didn't look hacked about (which I suspect it would if I did it).
The hinges you need are 2 " Backflaps, B&Q sells 'em and others.
I will look them up! Cheers
Looked them up, they're pivoted like normal hinges, which won't work
Dear Davit.
Use saddle clamp and a steel tube as a hinge. It works pressure as you want
Greetings Jeroen
Cheers; I'm going to try something very similar to this!
use a thin welding wire and make two brackets to hold the wire to the lid and then two more brackets to hold the wire to the side of the cupboards. you can place the pivot point where ever you want then.
I almost did something like this with little metal dowels but it didn’t work out nicely, unfortunately
@@Vandemonium always keep mechanisms beefy is my idea.
I would screw the hinges to the outside of the doors and cupboard frame. There is some nice looking ones and it's a simple solution.
Yes, that's what's going to happen but they need to pivot as shown
@@Vandemonium this is the way I did it. 65p per hinge in B&Q, I believe. ruclips.net/video/O2DBtZumd4Q/видео.html
Cheers but my doors are designed to hinge upwards not sideways, hence the problem!
Seems more of a hassle to redo then do initially. It takes a great amount of patience and causes exasperation from not having done the project right in the first place. However, you have discovered areas that need attention ie the insulation tape, and the wires possibly rubbing against the side of the hole.
Just 3d print your own hinges (after getting into the tech for weeks...). Anyway that shelf looks nice so far. Good luck!
Haha I have no access to 3D printing.
There are ones called scissor hinges they may be more like what your looking for try a search for them love the vlogs
I Googled them but none of them were right ☹️
'Centre pivot hinge' seems to be what your describing, but the ones I know off are fastened to framework not the face. So in effect you'd need framework on the inside of the door and the panel... Which put like that probably makes no sense at all!
I had to laugh when after 1 and 3/4ths of video, you were in exactly the same place as you were to begin with (minus the ducting of course). Looking forward to more home improvements though. The van life stuff seems to have really taken off this year!
Sliding by-pass doors in an aluminum u-channel is an option.
I see what you mean but it would make thongs more complicated, I think. And I wouldn't like the look of the channel, unfortunately.
Dowels might make it work, in a way... But, I'm not qualifird to give any sort of advice! Good luck!
I used lift up hinges on Amazon all kinds
I had a look at lots of those and they'd almost work but a lot of the designs were such that I'd need to hacksaw the hinge a bit and I was hoping not to do that.
What about just making the doors hinge sideways or making two smaller doors per hole in front panel to make side hinging double doors per hole (seperate cupboard). Kind of like normal kitchen cupboards.
Yeah, if I was going to re-make it, that's what I'd do. I have forced the existing setup to work for me now, I'll do a follow-up video soon when I've varnished it and popped it all in place.
make your own hinge with 2 pieces of wood and a nail :D and then just glue and nail wood to cabinet and door and it should work ok (just make sure to make it so that nail can get out so you can dismantle it if needed)
Haha it might come to that!
Any `lift up flap top sprung door hinge` will work. It will hinge at or near the top just fine.
No, it won't because there's nothing to connect the hinge too, the ceiling panel is too thin and weak, plus the sloping line of the roof would mean hinges wouldn't work there.
This type of hinge is attached to the side rails and to the side of the door. They do not attach to the ceiling. Just google `lift up top sprung door hinge`.
www.pinterest.com/pin/489696159457803825/ example of an install with nice diagram, it will work and as it hinges at the top (side attached) it will allow full access to the cupboard. It will also work on the cupboards that are not parallel at the top. Just measure up from the bottom sonthe hinges are at the same height each side.
Ah, gotcha. Cheers!
Use 2 piece slide apart hinges
6:20 No mate, you want to snap a plastic grommet around the entry hole for the wires too. Vhich vill entail threading the grommet all the way along the route of the wiring.
Nah, kidding ya. The plastic hose you have is fine
Have you ever thought of using heavy duty velcro strips for the repeated off and on paneling etc? You have that kind of voice that would have been excellent on the serial radio programs of old. Not that I was there but have heard them. I know you were in radio.
I used magnets for any panels that come off repeatedly. For these cupboard doors, I want to use hinges.
Google Sliding Lift Stay Arm. If I understand what you want.
You can use cargo net instead of doors, or sliding doors
I could but I wanted doors!
How about dispensing with hinges and just using magnetic catches?
I did ponder that but I’d rather they hinged
When you pull an old wire out, tie a piece of waxed string to it first. Pull the string into the space where the wire previously hung out with its friends. Leave the string in place. That way you'll have an easier job if you need to run a new wire through there at a later date. It's much easier to pull the new wire through with the string than it is to try to push the new wire through. :-)
Too late! 😂
Oh no! Left on a cliffhanger! Will the Frakenshelf survive or be cast aside in favour of a sleeker model?
I would suggest a Piano hinge if you wanted to use the shelve. That could be hidden easily across the top. That being said, you hated it so hey make something you will enjoy.
Unfortunately, the slope of the roof (matching that of the van) means a piano hinge wouldn't work. If I'd made the doors smaller within the facia, and level at the top, it would!
Very interesting. How about dispensing with hinges and use magnetic catches instead?
I considered it but would rather they hinged
david you are a funny guy
Yeah, but looks aren't everything...
There is one thing that struck me after a wail, if you hang the door as described it will want to "list". To prevent that you will need to fit some kind of stopper, and you didn't like pieces of wood on the inside (or outside) becoming visible when opening.
Not sure what you mean by the door listing; if I could get the hinge I want, it would hold the door firmly in place
@@Vandemonium It depends on how you intend to secure the door from unintentionally swinging. You would not only have to prevent it from swinging open but also stop it from swinging inwards, this because the pivot point is of set from the centre of gravity so you will have a moment arm tending to rotate the door by gravity.
10:17 a question about your saws, if I may ? Did you replace the handheld circular saw with the table saw ?
No. I'd like a table saw though
I imagine the knobs on the flappy cubbyhole doors will be annoying since they will contact the ceiling and make the door open almost but not quite perpendicular to the ceiling
Indeed it will, one of the many other disadvantages of my Frankenshefl!
Look at Wangjie hinge on Amazon
It sounds like you need some sort of 'flag hinge', good luck finding the right ones...
Thank goodness a nice cup of tea will make things better ☕️ (🥪)
The usual thing to keep a horizontal door open is a strut. Easy to find in many places. Any reason you don't want that?
It's not the keeping open but the hinging that's the issue
Maybe you could just use P clips, use one on either end of the door flap holding a single rod between them to keep things aligned and two more P clips on the door frame as pivot points. Might be a little too low budget though. I see someone beat me to it.
I might try it though!
Job well done 👍
try looking for push to open hinge
Cheers, it won't give me the motion I need but thanks
Re cupboard hinges again:- have a look for 'pivot hinges' and also 'knife hinges' . I came across them on the web and in some form they might do what you want - not as simple as the flag type though :o/
I'm no hinge expert, but I think something along the lines of "intermediate pivot hinge" is close.
or search cabinet hardware side mount hinge
use 2 small barrel slide bolts instead of hinges
Use a heat gun to heat up and loosen the adhesive. That way to don't pull off the wood.
Too late!
Would you be able to replace the three upward swinging doors with two sliding doors, that would require no hinges? One would slid behind the other and expose whatever divided space you have set up.
I did consider tambour doors for them briefly, which would be similar, but the mechanism takes up too much valuable space :-(
What a brute you are!!😊
Maybe you might get a carpenters license after all this....or at least a engineers license...I think you may have earned it!!
Time for a cuppa and cheese sammie...stay safe..😊
2:17 "Gas alarm... ...detects all sorts of other assorted gases...."
So I gotta ask the obvious question - has anyone personally set the alarm off ?
How about dispensing with outwards opening doors and have sliding doors?
If I rebuilt it, possibly but I have persisted as it is, as will be shown in an upcoming video!
You were working on Frankenvan, so you needed your own E-gore to help. I know get London boat Gore,
i mean Girl. ;-)
A solution for your shelf doors...? Magnets. Lift on and off... No hinge at all... Just an idea... Keep safe!
Cheers. I did think about that, like a lot of the cabinet doors in the van but decided I really want hinged ones, else you have to keep finding somewhere to put the door
I admire your persistence, or more accurately, your perseverance. Even though I know nothing about what you are doing it seems interesting as you explain your process and reasons. Enjoyed the vlog, thanks for sharing.
Hi David, with reference to your hinge issue, have you looked at the rs-components website? I find that they tend to have the more unusual items.
Good idea!
At a quick glance David, I thought the thumbnail was you signing autographs haha.