How to Install & Wire Enphase Combiner Box 3 and Eaton DG222NRB Solar Switch
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- Опубликовано: 2 авг 2024
- How to install and wire an Enphase Combiner Box 3 and a Solar Disconnect switch. I am building my own 10KW Solar system using Enphase components. Saving myself many thousands of dollars. I hope that you find some value in this video. If you have any questions about building your solar system using Enphase microinverters and the combiner box 3 with built-in envoy please leave me a comment below.
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Timeline
00:00 - Intro
00:18 - Installing combiner box and solar disconnect
07:35 - Wiring the Enphase Combiner Box 3
14:35 - Wiring the Solar Disconnect Switch
16:59 - Overview
#solar #diysolar #solarsystem #solarenergy #enphase #microinverter 
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Great videos - thanks! Will use this info when building my new retirement home. You are a natural born teach with simple explanations and following the old teacher rule: "tell them what you are going to tell them, then tell them, then tell them again."
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
What a great video! I'm installing an Enphase system and was having trouble visualizing how I was going to mount the IQ box and the disconnect. You do clean work! Thank you!
Depending on you local code will dedicate whether the AC Disconnect is before or after the combiner box. If grid tied you can contact you local power company to get that answer. Overall, once complete, the install is much simpler than I imagined. Goodluck with your system! Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Disconnect will most likely be between your combiner box and the electrical main, gives you the option of shutting down the entire system either from your electrical main or from the disconnect--or from combiner box via individual solar string breakers (20A)
@@JustinsProjectI think you may be confusing grid-tie string inverter to Micro Inverter, with Micro you do not use a DC Disconnect, with string inverters a DC Disconnect is needed unless built into the inverter. A AC Disconnect is needed for rapid shutdown, I have never seen other in any state we install at. The AC Disconnect is the first in-line from the Breaker used to power the entire array. That is all I have ever seen.
@michaelblock4397 The Enphase microinverters are equipped with their own rapid shutdown function. The AC disconnect is required to be 6ft from the main service entrance. Required by fire code and electrical inspection. It is to be placed in between the main service panel and combiner box in most jurisdictions. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Watching these have given me alot of comfort I didn't have before. Im a leap first, worry later guy so Im fine with diving right in to my solar project in a months, but seeing your setup makes me feel like Im now totally ready to dive in.
Awesome and good luck with your project. Thanks for watching and commenting. 👍
This is one of the best videos I’ve seen.. when you are new and trying to learn you need a video with this type of detail.. everyone always leaves out basic details that a newbie needs to see to help understand .
Much appreciated 🙏 Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Dude your videos are awesome! I came to your channel trying to understand how micro-inverters actually wire into your breaker. I've binged on about 10 videos in the last hour. Nobody else seems to be showing this critical step, so thank you! You are also explaining the tools used, and why to use them. You're like the country dad that some people never had.
Much appreciated! Glad I could help! Thanks for watching and commenting!
in a year or so im wanting to put in solar your videos are giving me confidence
Much appreciated! It's not as bad as it might seem. Goodluck! Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
Thank you for documenting this process so clearly and thoroughly. I've just submitted plans to the city for a ~6kW system that I intend to DIY on my house this summer/fall. I'm using all of the same enphase/Eaton components you are so this video was immensely helpful. Keep up the great work!
I'm looking forward to the updates when you get everything switched on.
Much appreciated 🙏 I am waiting on my harnesses and tie offs. Then I'll be installing the system on the roof using ironridge racking system. Glad it was helpful, this type of info is very limited so I wanted to share my experience. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Im doing the very same within the next two months
@@SSMLivingPictures Goodluck 👍🏻thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
@@JustinsProject Thanks man!
That's awesome video! you made my future project much easier. Thanks!
Good to hear! Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
This is priceless. Thank you Justin.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
I just finished installing an Enphase System IQ Combiner Box 3, 22 qty IQ7A paired to Canadian Solar 400W panels, also used a square D 60A non-fused disconnect in between the combiner box and the electrical main, it’s turned up and working great, city inspection passed just waiting on utility approval, working on adding 6 more panels so that I can use my hvac all I want! Kinda wish I had gone with the IQ8 system instead so that I still had power when utility grid went down, can’t do that with the IQ7 system
Awesome!!! Congrats 👏 Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Thanks for making this video. It's very helpful.
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Very helpful Justin, thank you. I see that you run wires to the Envoy monitoring system and through its sensor. It would really help to see what that requires.
Are you referring to the Production CT? The Envoy was per wired in the Combiner Box so I did not have to manually install that item. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Excellent video. Thank you for your time!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Great work! Looks good and reliable! Greetings from Europe.
Thank you! Cheers!
So glad enphase came out with the IQ8HC! I am using 530W panels and really didn’t want to lose power due to clipping like you mentioned
Just a heads up... The IQ8HC has a max peak output of 384w and a continuous output of 380w. Although it is commonly used with module pairing from 295 - 500+ it will never output more than 384watts. Here is the datasheet: enphase.com/sites/default/files/2021-10/IQ8-Series-DS-US.pdf Hope that helps.
@@JustinsProject oh man, I ran across that earlier this week and got disappointed.
Look into Hoymiles HMS-500, HMS-1000, and HMS-2000. They can get close to 500w per panel. Single, Dual, and Quad Microinverters. I still need to do a lot of testing on them, but they look very, very promising.
Dude!!! Thanks for your kool videos. You ROCK!!!!
Appreciate it! Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Good work !
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Excellent video.
Appreciate it. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
great job and thank you for the video!
Glad you liked it!
this video was the best i have seen yet on you tube thanks bud. how will the internet work on it
Much appreciated! The combiner box has a built in envoy and that connected via wifi to the internet. If you do not have strong signal then you can hardwire it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Amazing video, thanks!
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
perfect explanation Thanks
Appreciate it 🙏 Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Super helpful video thanks for all the awesome info!!
I am glad it was helpful
I am all for solar power here in Alaska. But I can see the necessity to do it right and to code which this video stresses. I like the detail because the insurers and the regulators always look if something happens.
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Hi Justin, this is a great video, you explain everything so well. Thank you
I think you missed the connection of the two consumption monitoring CT’s that come with the combiner box, you got the production side only, if you could do a short video on that it would be ideal. Thanks
Hi Sangye, I have a video on that located here ruclips.net/video/37bNk42GG8Q/видео.html - Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Nice job man
Much appreciated 🙏 Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Great video
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Hey Justin, I just had a enphase system installed with 2 strings. I plan to run a third string myself to the existing equipment. My question that I am researching is how to connect third string. It looks like a simple run to the combiner with ground and add a eaton 29 amp fuse. Need to update plans for this addition and permitting, but overall your video was helpful. Thanks
Really just depends on your setup and how your going to expand it. I assume you have a combiner box 3 or 4. If there is a open slot you would use that. It's hard to say without knowing all the details. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Thanks!
Much appreciated 🙏 Thank you for watching and commenting 👍🏻
🌟🌟🌟 Gor, Thank you for the added support! You are the first person to ever do that on my channel!!! Very much appreciated 🤘 🌟🌟🌟
Awesome job! I’ve been looking into using enphase components for an install, and looking for some ways to possible help save some money for the install. This is awesome, love the details.
Much appreciated 🙏 Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
My entire system was $20K for an 11.2 kw system, that’s including a $450 permit and about $1K of wiring and misc parts
System that size right now will cost $50 -$60k right now in Ca
@@Joe-qw6il Did you install it or was that installed by a company?
@@Joe-qw6il just to add some more data pointed, a month ago, in north Texas, a 11kw system, enphase with 400w panels (28 I think) was around $29-33k. No batteries, shingle roof mounted on main house. Just an extra data point. I decided not to pull the trigger yet, and hope prices go down from this temporary spike in pricing from supply chain issues. 18 months ago, I had a quote for a 9kw system installed for $13k so prices have definitely jumped…. Fingers crossed things settle down before my electric contract expires and I lose my current 11 cent perf kWh rate I have locked in now.
You make it look easy but my head is about to explode LOL
It's taken a lot of research and studying to become comfortable with doing this myself. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
A lightning strike in the front of the house or
Electrical system caused my AC solar system to go haywire it had to be reset. It destroyed my dc inverter and some other dc equipment the surge went into the internet cable
cable and took out the dc equipment attached to the internet cable. All the lightning protection in the world didn’t stop a lightning surge into my internet system.
Good point! Thanks for sharing! I'm sorry to hear that. Hopefully, you got it all fixed. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
nice setup and very informative, thanks. I have a solar array at my garage and would like to connect the array to the garage box that goes to my home. In my garage fuse box, I have two main lugs at the top of the box that I believe I can connect to from my disconnect rather than run wires from my garage to the house, it would be redundant no?
I was required to run it over to the main panel due to local requirements. Fire codes, local utility acceptance (for back feeding into the grid) and local electrical requirements on solar installs. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Excellent video. Thank you! Are you an professional electrician? You seem to know that work so well.
I'm not a professional electrician, I do have experience working with it, though. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Hello Justin, I really like your videos, very informative and clear on topics that you are covering. I will have a company installed SolarEdge ground mount system(8kW DC) soon and I am planning on to supplement that with DIY Enphase system with IQ8+, 6 panels 400 watts each(2.4 kW DC). If I don't want use Enphase Combiner box with such a small system, how can incorporate standalone IQ Gateway to monitor this system, my array will be 220 feet away from main panel, thanks.
220 feet is pushing the limit on the PLC which is a max of 250ft ish. That is how the microinverters communicate with the Envoy. It's a very reliable way of sending data to the envoy but after 250ft things can get dicey. Just a heads up on that. Thanks for watching and commenting! 👍
Thanks for this video. Question 1 i need have id from enphase to register envoy and start up this system. Question 2 the breaker in de combiner 3 is eaton i can use GE for example. Question 3 I can add more breaker in this combiner 3 to have other circuit
Answer to Q1: Yes, you will need an ID and if you use the Combiner Box as a whole then it will be registered using that ID.
Answer to Q2: You could depending on the model. I choose the Eaton because it was compatible and already in the solar permitting software options to make creating my Solar Permit Package easier to complete.
Answer to Q3: This combiner box 3 is rated for a make of 80 amps - (4) 20 amp circuits.
I hope that helps. Thanks for watching, sub'n and commenting 👍
Good and informative thanks! How did you run your wiring from your garage to your house? That's longer than what I have done with a fishwire!
I fished it through. It was a pain. Used wire lube also. Took a little time but finally got it. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Please tell us what source you recommend to do the needed drawings and such for permits to pass engineering
I would recommend checking out IronRidge's design tool. base.ironridge.com/projects Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Really helpful videos, thank you! I'm wondering which type of conduit bushing you use in the video, installed on the bottom of the combiner? I've found so many types of bushing on Amazon but none of them looks same as yours.
I got that bushing at Menards. It's on Amazon but 3x the cost. I bought 3 separate items. The threaded adapter, metal lock nut, and the bushing. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Thanks! @@JustinsProject
So much amazing info
? For you, please help me understand what stops the power (in a grid outage) from feeding into the grid and electrocuting a down line worker on the grid? Is that the combiner box ? And when feeding the power back into the grid does the meter automatically see the power and start going backwards?
Also how does the system you talked about in another video give you power to the house (during the day light) when the grid is off without back feeding into the grid
Each microinverter is designed by Enphase with a rapid shutdown function. It is a required safety feature for all almost any grid tied system. The meter must be changed by the power company to a net meter. I have a video on that also. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Hello, you could have used #6cu for 60A, you got line one and two correct at combiner but changed it in disconnect and when you install fuses have them with the fuse rating facing out so everyone can see it.
Thanks for watching and commenting
Great video! How would one go about adding battery's to this system?
My first recommendation before starting that process is to get certified through Enphase University. It's free and you will learn everything you need to install the battery back up. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Justin, thank you for this video. Very helpful. What solar program do u use to design the solar system?
I used lyrasolar.com Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
If I need to replace a breaker safely in the combiner do I just disconnect the combiner from the main breaker panel using the disconnect switch next to the combiner?
If you disconnect the AC Disconnect and the main panel it will shut down the microinverters also. That is because they are equipment with a rapid shutdown function. I would also recommend hiring an electrician if you're not 100% comfortable working with it. Hopefully that helps. Thanks for watching and commenting! 👍
For the dg222nrg shut off fuse, is it always a 60amps fuse no matter what size system you have?
No, depending on the size of your system. Thanks for watching and commenting. 👍
Why did you use a #6 ground wire for EGC, is it for the physical damage section of the code requiring it to be #6 or larger? If you were running the ground through conduit what table would you use for sizing the EGC?
It was required by the manufactures recommendation.
Does the combiner stop back feeding if the Grid power goes out? Or is this something that the Envoy handles?
That is built into the microinverters. They are equipped with rapid shutdown in the event of the power going out. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Thank you for posting this awesome and very thorough video. A few times, you show the combiner and disconnect together (like time stamp 17:28). The combiner L1 (black) is on the left and the L2 (red) is on the right but on the Eaton disco, it is reversed with red on the left and black on the right. Does that matter, or is it clearly labeled in both boxes where to terminate?
Appreciate it 🙏 at :30 You should be able to see how the L1 and L2 are labeled in the combiner. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
They don't matter. You can swap them as much as you want unless you want to add consumption CT then keep track
Nice job. What solar design software did you use? Thanks!
I used LyraSolar.com to design my permit package. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Hi there. I had a solar company install the solar panels and enphase box but they abandoned my project right before final inspection. So i went ahead and scheduled the final inspection with the city and it passed. Now i dont know what lights are supposed to be on on the Enphase box. I have one green light on only where there are two arrows facing opposite of each other. Does that mean my system is producing power and os running like its supposed? Thank you for all your help!
Sorry to hear that. I would reach out to Enphase support. They are great to work with and provided me with a lot of guidance during my self-install. I think that would be your best option. I assume the installer had the utility company come out and install the NET meter. If not, you should reach out to them and let them know what has happened and you need a NET meter. If your electrical inspection passed, that should not be a problem for them.
I realize this is a old video, and I am no electrician, but for future knowledge for whomever, you shouldn't have to tape entire wire red/white, a few inches on either end should meet code. Its just to let future people working on system you are using it as a hot vs neutral/ground.
True, you don't have to tape the entire wire. I just like doing that because I wanted the color coded wires but could not find them during that period of time. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Great videos! What solar design software did you use/recommend? Thanks!
I used lyrasolar.com to design my solar permit package. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
I wonder if I could run it on ap system yc600 micro inverters
It would be interesting to see if that would work. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Great video, but if you have a 200 amp main panel the largest breaker you add to back-feed the main panel is 40amps. You will fail or should fail inspection if you placed a 45amp in the box. It states this in NEC code and I just ran into this problem with my inspector. The 125% rule screws you. My system is also near 10kw or 34 amps at 240v x 1.25 puts you over the 40amp rule.
I can actually use up to a 70 amp breaker in my main service panel on the solar system. Here is a short, I put out on that a while back. This is how I calculated the max breaker size for the solar back feed breaker using the NEC rule. ruclips.net/user/shorts2DGJYEBT1Oc?si=9kVwzjSMqRHf3Xhj - Thanks for watching and commenting. 👍
Nice job... However you don't need the #4 white conductor. Interestingly enough, the IQ7+ Microconverters and the disconnect do not require a Neutral. The Combiner Electronics requires Neutral but a #12 white for the Combiner Electronics is all you need. No need to break out the Neutral in the disconnect switch.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I will definitely look in that.
Why choose enphase microinverter over a string inverter setup? It doesn't look like you have much shade to worry about and the cost would be less. Was it for the individual panel level monitoring or the maturity of enphase perhaps? Also, did you buy direct from a distributor or somewhere else online?
Trying to decide for myself but a string inverter like the SMA Sunny Boy seems like it would be best for my situation as I have no shade issues.
I choose microinverters over a single inverters for a number of reasons. #1 is I did not want a single point of failure. If a single string inverter goes out you will not be producing. With a microinverter only one panel stops producing. #2 Other than just shade from trees. If one panel gets dirter than another on a single string inverter all panels on that array gets reduced to that production level. On a microinverter setup on each panel will be producing at a higher level in the same scenario. For instance, cloud cover, bird droppings, dust and even how the sun rises and sets each day all will have an affect on way it produces. #3 Maintaining the system and Enphase service is top notch. They stand behind their products. I wish I did more research on my panel manfacturer. Not happy with their customer service. However, Enphase and IronRidge have been top notch. #4 Running DC feed from the building to the house requires metal conduit and thats just harder to work with than schedule 40 and 80 pvc. The lost goes on way I choose this setup over a single inverter though. I hope this helps.
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
And most people are more comfortable handling AC over DC. Enphase convert from DC to AC at each module on the rooftop.
How does the panel know when to use utility power vs grid power? With this set up can utility power and solar run at the same time om the same phase?
It backfeeds the grid while over producing during a sunny day. It automatically uses anything we produce in real time and sends over production to the grid automatically. Yes, 100%, and the only way to run this setup is to have grid power on for the system to produce.
Thanks man. Love your videos. Very helpful.
Hi Justin, great video! Do you plan to add a battery backup at some point? Would that circuit also connect into the combiner box? Thank you.
Appreciate it 🙏 ... I would like to in the future. We shall see if I can make that happen at some point. It is my understanding that it would run through the 4th slot (breaker) in my configuration. I still need to take the battery install courses through Enphase University before tackling that project. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
I wanted to go that route, I have 3 solar strings, but that battery is $7600, that’s pretty steep for me, I would rather do a nice backup Gen instead for that $$$
@@Joe-qw6il Same reason I opted out of the battery. Felt the cost was a little steep especially with a 1:1 watt tariff. It would take a long time to get a return on that investment.
You did a good Job, but the cost of Copper is over kill. AL works just as well just up size it. The cable powering your home is AL. We do jobs with copper also so you are correct, we do 20K and larger all are done in AL. You most Definitely saved yourself $4-$5 thousand dollars with installation.
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Wow
Thanks for watching and commenting! 👍
How did you determine the breaker sizes (20A) for the combiner box, and the breaker size for your service panel (45A)?
For calculating the breaker in the main panel. I made a short on that: ruclips.net/user/shortsEJz77T_-ghg?feature=share that explains how to do that. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
I do have a question but your video is quite amazing and before my question, I wanted to say thank you and compliment you on the very clear and detailed instructions. As for my question, it has to do with sizing the conductor from the panels to the combiner box. I am contemplating a 21 panel install on my roof with three strings of seven panels. If I did this right, then if I use 370 watt panels, would this output 11 amps? If so, then would I use 15 amp breakers in the panel? My run is about 65 feet from the panels to the combiner box and when I use a calculator, I get 12 gauge wire but I would probably run 10 gauge to the combiner just to have a bit of extra in case I add three additional panels to one string. Does this sound about right to you? I really appreciate your video. It gives me the confidence that I can do this job myself. Well done!
Hi 👋🏻 first, thanks for the kind words. Yes, 12 gauge will would work fine on 3 branches of 7. 10ga would be even better. You will be fine on vdrop on the 12ga. Use 20amp breakers in the combiner box 3 with the envoy. That's what I did. Mine is operational now. Note, I would recommend the IQ8A microinverters or atleast the IQ7A on the 370w panels to maximize your output on those panels. My panels are 370w also. I used IQ7+ which is fine but you will not maximize your output. They are rated at 290-295w max power output. However, it reduced my cost by 50% on the microinverters going that route. So it was a budget call for me. Goodluck! Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
@@JustinsProject Thank you very much for taking the time to answer. Yes, I had intended to go to 10 gauge just to be safe and I will go ahead and do the 20 amp. Your video really inspired me to take on this project. Thank you once again.
@@shenmisheshou7002 Your welcome 🙏 I will be making a video on the full wiring of my system very soon. Cheers 🍻
If you have 21 panels at 370 watts each, that equals 7,700 watts. Divide by 240 v. equals 32.4 amps. divide by three circuits equals 10.8 amps per circuit.
@@topnotchelectric Thank you. A lot has changed since I asked this question and I am no longer pursuing solar, but you were kind enough to answer and I wanted to express my appreciaton.
Can the combiner box and disconnect be inside the house with your breaker panel? Should last longer indoors.
I'm my jurisdiction it had to be installed outdoors within 6ft of the AC disconnect and Meter. May be different in other areas.
I'm getting ready to do my own DIY system too. Installing on my shop roof with metal trapezoid exposed fastener roof, Ironridge racking system. 22 480-watt panels and IQ8A microinverters. First challenge is the permits. 1,800 sf shop building was originally permitted as a "Detached Metal Garage (No Utilities)". There is a 100-amp subpanel run with #4 copper wire to the house main panel (200 amps), about 120 feet away. I intend to feed this subpanel with the solar.
Couple questions... Why did you use #4 wire? Wouldn't #6 have been adequate? In CA #6 is good for 50 amps... Also, I wonder why the main breaker in the combiner box wouldn't be sufficient as a solar cut-off? Also, is the Envoy required to be on its own 10-amp circuit? I have plenty of room in the shop subpanel for a 10-amp double-pole breaker for that, but there's no room in the house main panel.
In my municipality you can not feed a sub panel with solar it must go to the main. Also, an electrical diagram is required by planning and zoning and a signed tariff agreement with the electrical provider. #4 copper wire was required in the engineering requirements. If you haven't already started your solar permit package. I used Lyrasolar.com to complete mine. No problem at all with getting approved by the county and electrical supplier. By code there must be a separate main ac disconnect. Depending on where you are located that will be before or after the combiner box. Mine is before. In this order---> Main panel, ac disconnect, combiner box, jbox and solar panels. Yes, the envoy is on a dedicated circuit in the combiner box. To get the warranty on your enphase components, if installing yourself, you will need to become certified with Enphase. Contact them and the will point you in the right direction on that. It's not bad, several hours and it helps answer a lot of questions. Not all, just some 😁
Good luck on your journey and don't hesitate to reach out. I just got my panels up on the roof. I am waiting on the final inspection and the electric supplier to swap to a NET meter. System is operating but can't leave it on until fully approved. Exciting stuff to finally see it up.
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
#6 THWN-2 is supposed to be good all the way to 75A, I’ll be running a 60A breaker for mine since my final system size will be 11.2 kW that’s 47.6A so a 60A breaker @ 80% is 48A, I just squeezed in!
Enphase combiner needs to have conduit openings from either the side or from the back under the busbar, otherwise warranty void.
That Eaton AC disconnct coming from the top as well - the least preferable location for a conduit opening in an outdoor box.
Neither are likely to be a big deal, but if you're making a guide for others ...open to some constructive feedback.
Amit, I am definitely open to constructive feedback. It is important to note, that all warranties are voided if the installer is not certified as an Enphase Installer. Meaning the installer must have completed their training through Enphase University. I am certified with Enphase. Doesn't automatically make everything I do correct, but I precisely followed their instructions. Enphase recommends bringing the conduit in from the bottom, either side or the back of the box. This can be verified in their training video ( university.enphaseenergy.com/mod/page/view.php?id=615 ) ---- If looking for it from within the University Dashboard, it is in Section 5, System installation ---> then it's the 3rd section into that class labeled IQ Envoy Installation and 3:45 seconds into that training video where they discuss where to place the conduit into a combiner box.
The Eaton AC disconnect - Although entry from the top is not the most preferable entry point, it is still 100% acceptable by the manufacturer and our state and local codes.
There are thousands of scenarios one could run into during an installation and in many cases, optimal placement might not be an option for every component. As long as they are within code and meet the manufactures requirement, they should be safe and compliant.
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
In the solar production meter is the center lug always a ground wire and neutral passes through?😊
Sorry, I am not clear on the question. Do you mind clarifying? Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
@@JustinsProject so the production meter coming from combiner box. The 2 hot wires on from combiner land on the top left and right lug in the production meter. and the buttom left and right go to disconnect. Back to the Production meter. the left and right lug is your line. and theres center lugs in between left and right lugs. what normally gets wired in there. neautral or ground wire. ?so the production meter coming from combiner box. The 2 hot wires on from combiner land on the top left and right lug in the production meter. and the buttom left and right go to disconnect. Back to the Production meter. the left and right lug is your line. and theres center lugs in between left and right lugs. what normally gets wired in there. neautral or ground wire. ?
Is there an inverter needed before the combiner box??
Yes, they are called microinverters. In my build I 27 of them, one for each panel. I have a playlist just on solar. Hopefully, that will help you out. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Do you need to run internet cable?
I think you are referring to the included envoy in the combiner box - No, it is reporting via wifi so we can monitor the production. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
So I bought the enphase box you recommended, you show three strings to the combiner box. I have 16 panels each with its own micro inverter can I install a 4th 20 amp breaker into that box? Looks like there is room. Thanks
Which microinvertes are you planning on using?
Enphase m250
@dragproet Unfortunately, I don't have any experience with the M250's. I would assume you can easily branch 16 of those into 2 branches of 8. I used IQ7+. 27 of them, 3 branches of 9.
Yeah, I saw that my combiner box has a place for 4 60 amp breakers so I can do 4 per breaker so I think I'm ok there. Now these are 240-volt micro inverters now my question is can I still connect to my garage panel at the main lugs with 240 volts for each lug? Thanks, Paul
@@JustinsProject
Shade. Is it possible using a combiner box that I could have one array in one part of my yard, and another array quite a distance away in another part of my yard, and if one of the arrays gets substantially shaded that the output from the unshaded array would not be impacted?
If you use microinverters like I did, only the individual solar panel will be impacted by the shade not the whole array. Placement on your property will not impact the array other than if you get too far from the combiner box. You will need consider vdrop if you place you array too far away. There are work arounds but that would be determined once exact distances have been determined. There is a long answer to that question in which there are many factors that could impact the system. I provided the very short answer. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
@@JustinsProject great work on the video. Thank you!
@@MRL3234 Appreciate it!
Any issues from the inspector wanting the disconnect box individually grounded?
No, I passed the inspection with no issues on the solar system. 😎 Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Justin, what did you have to do when you program the Envoy in the combiner box?
That was pretty easy. I used the enphase installer toolkit and called Enphase installer support. All very helpful stuff. For the most part the envoy was pre programmed for the combiner box because it was factory installed in that box. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
In Enphase tool kit app you design your panels, choose portrait or landscape, set the orientation, the # of solar strings, once that’s done you enter the serial #s for all the micro inverters, you can enter them in manually or scan the barcodes with the phone app, then you assign each serial # to the solar string panels you defined, once all that’s done and you turn on your system the envoy in the combiner box will start an automated test where it will recognize all of the microinverters and update them
So what's the difference between this A/C combiner box and say your garage/shed sub panel where the solar array is? If there's empty bays in your garage sub panel, couldn't you just join/combine everything in there and then over to your house over the existing wires/cables (provided a hefty gauge)?
My jurisdiction would not allow the combiner box to be connected to a sub panel. It must be connected to the main service panel. Then there were limitations on the distance it could be from the meter. Fire code restricts the distance that the AC disconnect switch can be from the meter. Next, the manufacturers recommendation limited on how far the combiner box should be from the AC switch. So, it just made sense to place it where I did. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Thanks. I also read that if you have a load from a welder and peak solar production at the same time, the breaker might not "see" all the current flowing through it. Best to keep it all separate.
Aloha Justin quick question...Did you run three separate home runs(two hots and the ground) from your three sets of panels on your roof to your combiner box??? Peter
Yes, 3 branches of 9 panels each. They each had 2 hot wires (12ga). Total of 6 wires plus 1 equipment ground wire #6. All ran to the combiner box. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Couldn't your solar rack ground wire have just been run down to a second ground rod near the building instead of all the way back to the combiner box?
No, it needed to be run from the racking system to the combiner box without a splice. It was a requirement. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Is Eaton the only company that produces this kind of box when you go solar???? thank you William.
👋🏻 William, No sir there are all kinds of A/C Disconnects but I would recommend this one because it's listed in most softwares when you are building a solar permit package. Just simplifies your life. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
You mentioned a project for creating your single line , any recommendations or links?
Yes you can create your solar permit using lyrasolar.com - That is what I ended up using. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Hey Justin, I loved the video and also just subscribed! I would also recommend a video on the whole permitting process, thanks!
Sorry for so many questions. What does the 4th breaker in the combiner box do?
No problem. That would be for a 4th homerun circuit. If the array was larger, I would have used it.
@@JustinsProject how many circuits could you add to the combiner box. I'll be using the iq8 inverters but I need 65 of them which requires 5 circuits.
Actually I think that's for the Envoy monitoring system. Justin, it would help if you could do a video on that.
Hi my friend I like your installation. I was wondering if you can help me out for a few minutes. Iam doing the same system a10k .thanks again. Let me know
How can I help you? Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
I don't understand how one sting of panels with micro inverters is only 20amps as you have in your combiner box? Is this correct?
IQ7+ produce 1.21A each. It was wired for the maximum number of IQ7+ microinverters that can be put on a single branch (13) for future expansion, if needed. If you take 1.21A x 13 = 15.73A. Then, add in the 125% rule. Putting the total at 19.66A. Using a 20A breaker per branch is the perfect choice. Hope that helps.
Which solar software did you use?
I have a couple newer videos on the overall wiring and total cost of my system. Be sure to check those out. I used Lyrasolar.com for the solar permit package.
I have that same setup. Im trying to add an enphase 10kw battery storage to the system. Have you tried that step yet?
Not yet, maybe down the road. How is your project coming? Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
@@JustinsProject ours were professionally installed on our shop but we are planning to diy the same setup on our house. Im having to research the new inflation protection act as it supposedly has some incentives and tax credits for new installations. The enphase branded battery banks cost more than the materials for the solar array at the moment. I'm looking to see if the bluetti ac300 will work with the enphase iq3 combiner because if it does it is a much cheaper modular alternative.
@@valhallagames4376 Interesting, I would be interested in learning more about that setup.
Do you have to have the conduit inside the wall?
It goes into the garage wall cavity. Into a LB junction box. That can not be drywalled so a removable cover must be installed where the junction box is.
Yes, in my situation it was required.
I thought 6 awg wire was rated for 50 amp?
I am setting up the same system you have is why I ask and I already have 500 foot of 6AWG
Yes 6awg can handle 50amps. 👍🏻 Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
How does it cut off from the grid during an outage? Is it automatic? Manual? Here in Florida Duke Energy made a big to do about protecting the linemen from energized lines insisting on redundant auto disconnects on solar power. Also connecting without a licensed electrician, and an interconnect agreement will result in Duke Energy pulling the meter until the entire system is passed inspections. Even then you may require a hearing to petition for being reconnected. Check local regulations.
Yes, the rapid shutdown feature is automatically triggered in the microinverters once it loses connection. This protects anything like that from happening. It is a requirement for all solar installs. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Great video, one question though. Why such a large neutral? Isn't it only for the controls in the combiner box? Thanks.
The combiner box is rated at 80amps even though I am not pushing that right now, I still needed to size the wire for that rating on that box. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
@@JustinsProject Thanks for the prompt reply. I thought the conductor size (from the combiner panel to main, and breaker size (in the main panel) is calculated by 125% of the microinvertor output, not by the cobiner box rating nor the sum of all the breakers in the combiner panel.
@@rogerbuck6102 The solar software recommended the sizing on wiring also. Made sense to me because if we ever wanted to expand the array to have a 4th branch with additional 9 or 11 panels if would handle it. So it was sized for the combiner box maximum output which may have exceeded the minimum requirement. Since it was such a short run, cost wasn't a big factor.
It satisfied the inspector and we are producing now. Feels good to have completed the entire project from start to finish.
@@JustinsProject Cool, thanks for explaining. I've heard horror stories of inspectors, and installers, not knowing the actual code and insisting on a 60A breaker to cover the 3 20A breakers in the combiner box - instead of the 125% load from microinverters. My main panel can only support a 40A breaker for solar, and I'm only installing 13 panels to start, and maybe another 8-10 later. I'm afraid I'll get an inspector that says I need a 60A breaker. Thanks again.
@@rogerbuck6102 You could always use lyrasolar.com to design your solar permit and see what their recommendations might be for your situation. It might help you understand a lot of the details a little better.
Why the need for a separate disconnect box? The combiner provides the ac disconnect means required by NEC 690.13 (?).
Installing a solar system means more than just following the NEC. The fire codes, building codes, and local municipalities have say on what is required also. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Justin, just wondering why a solar disconnect is required in this case? The system can be turned off using the breakers in the combiner and the system and the connection to the grid can be turned off using the back feed breaker. Please advise.
It is required to pass the electrical inspection. There must be a "Main" disconnect. The combiner box is not a "main" disconnect for the system. It can disconnect the branches on the array individually, but not like a main switch can. One flip of the ac disconnect and everything past that point is shutdown. I am pretty sure this one is for emergency situations like a fire or something like that. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
@@JustinsProject Yes Justin, I agree there needs to be a Main disconnect. Why can't the 45A breaker in the Main Service Panel act as that Main disconnect?
@@frankf7986 I had the same thought when I first started designing my system. After lots of research and speaking with the local inspector and the superintendent at the utility company, it was made very clear to have an independent AC disconnect switch on the exterior of the property near the main meter. They would not approve the system if those guidelines were not followed. This is a grid-tied system so there are a lot of people telling us what we must do and not do, and rightfully so. In the end, we are using their utility infrastructure as a backup so it's a fair trade-off. Maybe it would be different if this was an off-grid system but then again it is best to have the independent ac disconnect for a number of reasons.
First thing the fire department will do when responding to a structural fire. Is, bump out the meter, turn off gas or propane, and that external AC PV disconnect. Which has to have a red tag saying disconnect for the solar. And everything has to be visible and group together within a certain distance.
I may have missed it, but why didn't you place all the equipement on the garage? Wouldn't need a second run of PVC going back to the house.
It was not allowed per code in my area. Also per the fire code, the rapid shutdown switch must be within 6 feet of the main service. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and commenting. 👍
@Justin's Project that makes sense now. But that code part doesn't make sense to me, Imagine what it would be if say a camping wanted to install pannels all around the place and be grid tied, what a nightmare it would be. Or a sugar Shack a few miles from the main entrance, with step-up/step-down transfos.
But.
You could have had the disconnect switch on your 100amps feeders between house and garage. And then not need that doubled PVC pipe, not buy the combiner box, use the garage panel as combiner box and just add the CT and data box there. Combiner boxes are needed for DC branches with regular inverter. AFAIK .Your setup gives you like 3 breakers in a row for each strings.
Good videos tho, thanks. 😁
They have a number book or wire marker book come with number label 8:31
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Sch 80 for an elec conduit? This is code where you are? Or your inspector deemed it vulnerable to physical damaged because you're coming up from the ground(?) My conduit will come down straight from the roof, I may have to ask my inspector and ask.
Schedule 80 is code for anything exposed. Anything inground or indoors I used Sch. 40
@@JustinsProject OK cool thanks as always
Did the combiner box come with breakers?
Yes, mine did. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Thank you. And the video is very helpful.
size of solar array
Mine is 9990 watts. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Curious why you used #4? My math says a 10k system at 240v will only pull 42A. Wouldn't a #6 be fine? Can handle 60A. Not trying to come across as a jerk..just curious.
Good question, and it can seem confusing, but the #4 copper wire was used to cover the max rating of the combiner box. 80amps. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
@@JustinsProject gotcha. Thanks for all your videos. They have helped me a lot. All the wiring is done..racks up..and panels going up this weekend. I'm pumped.
@N8Dogg1002 Awesome stuff, and congratulations on doing the work! It makes it feel that much better.
@@JustinsProject who did the ampacity calculations for system?
12 guage is enough on each string?
Yes, on my system. Max amps per IQ7+ is 1.21amp on the 240v system. I have a total of 9 per branch. Which is only 10.89 amps max. 12ga wire will handle that with no issue. You could go 10ga but realisticlly its going to be a connected to a 20amp breaker in the combiner box so 12ga is good. Plus, some food for thought. The Q cable that enphase designed for the drops is 12ga also. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
@@JustinsProject are you right I totally missed that fact that's it's micro inverters 😆. I have a similar setup 10 kW system will use 3 strings with iq8+ 10 gauge wire should be plenty then is what was purchased
I know this is a bit late. You have the combiner box connecting to the LOAD side of the disconnect. Would your home not be the LOAD in this instance with the Solar system being the LINE? The Solar system is no different than a utility in that it supplies power.
The main service panel is the LINE side. Solar system is the LOAD side. That is the correct way to wire my solar system. 👏 Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Harbor freight has a three pack of step bits for cheaper than even Amazon. I use em every day and they are too expensive so I just buy the harbor freight cheepos
Awesome! Thanks for heads up. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
The disconnect work's either way but shouldn't the "line" be connected to the combiner box since that's where the electricity is coming from. The "load" is the devices connected to the main panel.
It's similar to wiring a GFCI. The line is the wire coming from the panel to the plug. The load is everything after the GFCI. On the AC disconnect switch you do the same.
@@JustinsProject Actually, I was confused by this too. In this case, because the panels are providing the power, I believe the wires coming from the combiner box would be the line. Like the other commenter said, it will work either way. I could be wrong too. Lastly, thanks a MILLION for this video. There are alot of videos about installing the panels but very few that I have found about the components, and the ones I have found arent great. I am putting my panels / enphase micro inverters system up in a few months so your video has been essential. Thanks!!
@@SSMLivingPictures The correct way to install this is shown in the video. You will "fail" your inspection if you reverse them. The "Line" is towards the main panel and the "load" is towards the solar array. It may work both ways "BUT" pretty sure it will fail the electrical inspection if reversed. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JustinsProject Sounds good. Yours obviously passed so Ill do it the way shown in the video. Much appreciated
@@SSMLivingPictures If you get into your project and need a little help, revisit my channel and shoot me a message. I will do what I can to help.
Not for nothing use Milwaukee tools so when u drilling wholes u don’t have to struggle lol
I own Bosch, Milwaukee, Dewalt, and Ridgid drills 😁 they all work well for me.
Why 4awg? Seems to be a lot overkill 4awg and waste of money as THWN-2 copper does 95amps. You have it connected to a 45amp breaker which you could have saved money if you used 8awg at 55amps THWN-2….Even 6awg does 75 amps, doesn’t make sense.
Several reasons why I used #4. Every solar permitting software called for it. Made sense, because the combiner box can handle 80 amp max load on solar production and #6 would not handle that. #4 provides that ability to handle that. Plus, I talked with the local inspector before completing the install and he recommended #4 also.