I installed my own solar system in Thousand Oaks California. The big challenge for me was the permit; I'd never applied for one before. I filed the permit application and started my Net Metering 2.0 application with Southern California Edison months before the cutoff deadline, but the city of TO took 9 MONTHS to issue the permit. When I passed final inspection I was able to complete my NEM 2.0 application, but when I logged into SCE, I found the application I'd started months ago had been deleted, even though I'd paid the fee. It took a lot of complaining, but SCE finally allowed my to get NEM 2.0. BTW, I asked the inspector how many DIY solar jobs he'd seen and he replied "you're it."
Yeah, something tells me I might be the only DIY solar install in my area as well. 9 months is insane for issue a permit, simply unacceptable. My city took 24-48 hours and I give them a lot of credit being so on top of the permits.
@@ProximusTrinitas this question is ambiguous because it's going to depend on things like how many panels you're installing, if you're putting it on your roof and how much space you have on your roof, whether or not you use a battery system and how many batteries, what size inverter you're using, etc. what you would have to do is call an installer to do an estimate and then compare it with how much it would cost you to purchase the materials yourself. Also there is labor on your side and it's free in the sense that you don't have to pay for it but it's not free in the sense that it still consumes your time and effort and if you're not savvy Jen you may take even more time as you run into unforeseen hurdles.
YES. My 6.3KW array cost $10K after the FED rebate. I get 8.3MWH per year in Spokane Washington. I bought the components as a kit and had it installed in only two days. I have had ZERO problems after six years and paid ZERO $ for electricity. ❤❤. You can do this.
Really you have a "6.3KW array" which implies just panels, but no cost for batteries? How do you pay ZERO" for electricity with no battery bank? LOL I call BS. 10 grand for 6.3KW isn't a bargain BTW. Panels keep getting cheaper by the day. You can buy 12.4KW of Aptos panels for $4500 an inverter for $1400 and battery bank for $1150 X3 plus cables and mounts = 10 grand. The "FED rebate" must not be very high.
I completed a 2 1/2 year DIY Ground Mount project in May 2024. I started the project because for the first time in 57 years I didn't have anything technical to work on. I ran into unexpected problems in every part of this project. Bright spots were, GreenLancer for prints, NAZ for PowerField Power buckets and Santan Solar for some off brand panels that are working great so far. If you want details about things that were sometimes very difficult I can write it up. It is a long list.
That's awesome you completed a DIY install, and w off brand panels! Smart! I've heard a lot of good and bad about Santan Solar...how was your experience with them? Did you have any hardware performance issues? Did you have any opportunity to test the products before buying or is there a reasonable return policy? Were they freight shipped to your door, or are you in their area and picked it up yourself?
@@zeer0h Santan solar was basically no B.S. with me. They would split a pallet. NAZ seemed to know what they were doing and were pleasant to deal with. The GreenLancer guy I worked with knew more about Solar, by far, than anyone else I dealt with. Hardware; My power company still has Net metering. I was far into my project when I found out my pedestal's original, dating back to 1998, wiring did not meet code. Before I actually started work I had sent excellent pictures of the pedestal wiring to several professionals who saw nothing wrong with how it was wired. But I agreed with the inspector that how it was wired was not acceptable and would require a significant wiring change. In my working career in Phoenix Az I had installed hundreds of cabinets outdoors. I could not bring myself to put a plastic $800 Enphase IQ4 combiner cabinet that has $560 of electronics inside of it, in direct sunlight. Especially with all the crazies with guns where I live. I learned that the system would work just fine without the Envoy, only after I had installed everything. Because my system is ground mount I can easily maintain it without the Envoy. The Enphase Envoy does provide interesting, very useful performance information. I originally thought I would buy just the Envoy without the Combiner but when I figured out how much it would cost to mount the Envoy I bought the IQ4 and mounted it in my detached garage with only the Envoy connected in it. Trenching was insanely difficult because of ROCKS, water lines and sewer line. The first thing I should have bought is a Big SDS-MAX.
Use a couple of large neodymium magnets either side of the rafter, and another couple of magnets on a jig to match them, and use it to find where they snap together - then drill through the hole on the jig and it should be exactly in the center of the rafter. Another way is to light a fire underneath and use a thermal camera to spot the rafter! 🙂
Loved this video Scott. Enphase is really gaining more popularity depending on the customer's needs. I really liked how you broke everything down from the wiring, to how all of the Enphase pieces work together. Very educational stuff. You're killing it!
Awesome full install video. I used Enphase micros and Iron Ridge for my 2nd array - very easy to install and negates shading issues (I have a chimney sometimes in the way of 2-3 panels but in the summer it's not even in the way!). Hardest part was drilling the first hole in my roof through the rafter. I used a hammer to locate them well and only missed 1/16 of my pilot holes. Simply drilled 3/4" over from it and the micro flashing covered the bad hole (along with a drop of caulk). I don't like the idea of ruining shingles and removing nails so I used Quickbolt 2 microflashing, easier to place anywhere along the rafter and less work! No leaks or problems at all and I am at 4.5 years. I did find it interesting how many more roof penetrations you had to do but it looks like part of that was from your horizontal orientation (some panels cannot be installed that way, read the instructions), and some was do to needing splices. My 14ft rails didn't need any splicing. Anyway just throwing out a few things I did differently in case that's helpful to someone. I also ran metal conduit off the back rail because it was right at the back of my house where I needed the disconnect and to go into the basement for my main panel. I would definitely recommend all the products you used here! Like I said, no issues with any of my equipment so far!
This was an amazing breakdown. Doing a comparison of my California permitted installed in a rural county the amount of little details that are needed make it so hard to get DIY in California. California Specifics include: Rapid Shutdown Requirements Proper wiring clips Different rules on setbacks (Some of them more positive to installs) Armored conduit on DC circuits in the attic Proper labeling Map plague diagram at Main Panel Proper Cut Sheets, Site Plan and Wiring Diagrams to get the permit (I used GreenLancer and it looked like a Pro Diagram) After all of the small things I made sure to not miss the inspector came out, checked my disconnects and stickers and signed off on it never once getting on the roof or checking my attic.
I’ve done >10 projects helping neighbors here in CT. Overall, great overview showing the installation process. Especially helpful for people to understand how it protects from leaks. 3 notes: in our area it’s mostly 16” spacing of rafters so if you’re seeing 24”, it must be a regional thing, using optimizers on panels and one inverter at the ground level helps keeps the equipment most likely to require maintenance in a convenient location, installing a 2nd socket for the utility to place a special meter measuring Solar electricity output gives valuable information.
This is, BY FAR, the best video of this sort I've ever seen. I've seen a lot of "conceptual" and partial installs, but never any that were this clear and detailed with EXACTLY how to do this. THANK YOU!!!!!
I'm just starting to research the viability of installing solar on my house. Your video is fantastic. Everything makes sense, and it definitely looks like a project I could take on myself. Even the electrical, although I would probably hire a pro for that.
Great video and great install! I really enjoyed seeing the drone view and hearing the explanation behind each step of the process. It’d be great to see the finished product from the drone! Comparing your install to how my company does it in Southern California was the fun part. I can tell that you are in a high-wind area based on your racking and attachment usage. It looks like you are using Ironridge XR100 rails and you mentioned 4ft max spacing. Majority of the residential installs I have seen use XR10 and have a max footing space of 6ft. In addition, while I can’t speak to every single jurisdictions’ code requirements, there are a few things that we like to do that can be life savers for the future. First, regarding the electrical connections in the junction boxes on the roof, we like to use waterproof wire nuts for the hot connections. No matter how highly rated your junction box is, if you are using glands, you will get water in the junction box. It’s frustrating, but multiple times I’ve come back to an install and saw a nice puddle of water just sitting in the j-box waiting to ground or short a connection after the next rain. Placing it under the module helps significantly, but is not always a guarantee that it will not happen. Second, as a means to counter any water build-up because of water intrusion, weep holes are a common requirement that I have been called out for in a number of our inspections. To code, I believe they should be between 1/8 and 3/8 inch diameter and need to be in the back or lower parts of the walls of the junction box. One is a must, but two just in case one gets plugged from the outside. Lastly, in regarding the ground bonding for your system, it is best to use a permanent or semi-permanent connection rather than a simple ground bar. While these are not grounded systems, it helps to have bonding that can withstand whatever you throw out it. We like to use thin wall C tap compression connections to bond any ground connections that are made in the j-box, components, and in the main (strip a section of the solar system ground and c-tap to the main panel grounding wire, and then land the end of the solar ground on the main bar). Not saying these are code requirements, but after seeing what can happen despite your best efforts to ensure everything is installed certifiably, I recommend that any DIYer do these little things. And going back to your install, really highlight the need of mapping your micros, or optimizers if you are using a string inverter. If you ever need to trouble shoot your system, and you most likely will, this will save you so much headache. It especially helps if you are solo on the roof trying to remove modules that are now covering your modular components. Good luck with your inspection and I hope your utility grants your permission to operate soon, or whatever they may call it in your area! Looking forward to the next video once it starts cranking
Thanks for all the great feedback. I actually noticed EX Solar updated the junction box since the last one I installed and they added weep holes to the bottom on both sides. I agree on the mapping and bet a lot of DIYers would miss that part.
My parents have just had 3 quotes for a solar array coming in at 52k,55k and 72k. Absolutely ridiculous prices when I figure about 30k max for what they need. DIY is the only option apparently in Salem Oregon and that would give them a huge amount of solar.
@@everydaysolar Garage roof mounted 71 panels give or take and there is no chance they called for that many. I don’t remember the kilowatts but it was massive. My 5.44kw gets me to zero utility bills and they don’t use much more than I do. Electric bill goes between 400-600 a month
One thing to keep in mind is "bird management". I installed panels on my house in Tucson and a couple of years later found out that several rat-birds (also known as "pigeons" built several nests under them. Had to install plastic mess around them to keep the rats out of the thing.
You do a great job with your videos. You give so much excellent, detailed information on all areas of this job. I think this is the best installation video I have seen on any topic.
This is great if you don’t mind getting up on your roof for any potential issues in the future. Otherwise, find a reputable (not a door to door high pressure salesperson) with reasonable pricing and go with them.
@ 28:52. I see you have a window unit using the accordion gap fillers. You should get some insulating foam boards & place them on the outside in front of the gap fillers. It will greatly reduce the air gap it creates. A lot of hot air leaks in from those. Then tape off the back with weatherproof tape & something to make it not stand out so much.
Great video! I am looking to do a similar project at my home in Southwest Michigan. As a DIY person I am trying to determine the way to go. I am glad you showed a DIY approach for roof mounted solar on a shingled room. I am looking forward to hearing how the inspections and untility approval goes.
Inspection is scheduled for tomorrow at 2:30. I will release a more condensed version of this video over on Everyday Home Repairs this week and also include the results of the inspection.
Can we get a list of materials and parts like panels, rails, boxes, etc, a list from Enphase I have researched this products , does Enphase help with design? Thank you for all your videos I follow most that you have produced!
Scott, although the rails can be installed on either side of the mounting foot, I spoke with my design company and they agreed that mounting the rail on the top side of the foot would make it stronger. I initially installed mine on the downside before realizing it and changed them before putting the panels on.
Yeah, my thought was to hide the hardware from the ground. I am curious how mounting on the top with hardware facing down helps with the overall strength 🤔.
@@everydaysolar well you use the strength of the foot to hold the weight of the rail when it's on the upside instead of just the square bolt that slides into the channel when it's on the downside.
If you have squirrels (tree rats) near you and can't install the rails vertically up the slope of the roof, you should install squirrel guard around the perimeter (minimum).
Using a micro-inverter per panel seems like it would get costly pretty quickly for a larger system. What are the advantages of using per-panel inverter, rather than a string inverter?
In my area Enphase micro inverters are very common for roof-mounted installation. You need rapid shutdown to meet code all the way up to the panel so even if you go with a string inverter you will have power optimizers at each panel to help with shade but also to provide the needed shutdown capability to meet code.
They make a handy tool called the Magnespot that would greatly help with locating the trust from the other side of the roof. It not a cheap tool that a diy person would want to buy though
That is correct, it is probably another $2K-$3K of labor on a roofing job. Not sure how this will all pan out as more and more roofs come up for replacement with panels installed. Will the roofing company build up their skills or will you need to call in a solar company to facility the removal and reinstall.
Still shocking how expensive this is even if you do it yourself. Looking at the calculator you posted. My 262$ electric bill would be 18k in materials to diy. And still shows I would have a bill in the 70s.
I loved the video. It makes this type of project seem very approachable. I love solar, but have been hesitant to pursue it for my home because i didn't think i could manage it myself. based on this video, i might try it. it would be helpful to know the size home you're installing this for, and perhaps overall cost (even if you're given a break on your price, what could i expect trying to do the same thing?)
The home is only 1300 sq ft and here is a little more information on the timeline and cost at the end of the video ruclips.net/video/hBvb1qq2O3g/видео.html
@@everydaysolar omg you actually replied to my comment! thanks! also, thanks for making all these videos. i've saved an unknown amount of money from watching your videos. i recommend you to everyone i can.
Ironridge HUG mounts are a bit more forgiving and easier to install. It's flashless, so some people might feel it won't be as solid. Cost is similar and ironridge is a good name. Hoymiles microinverters might have been cheaper for this job. They have 4 panel modules that cost less than 2 single panel modules. Single panel modules give you flexibility that perhaps wasnt needed fir this application.
Thanks for the great info Scott. I rearranged my plan based on your comment about the 36" minimum "fire way" then I bunched my planned 21 panels like yours. Questions: what is the correct panel to panel spacing for the fasteners, I used 0.75" in both directions. Is there a minimum for the panel to the lower edge of the roof line? Thanks for the info and discount code!
In Colorado springs, you have to be an "authorized" contractor to do a permitted solar installation. I'd like to do this diy but not sure how one would get around this.
Thank you for the time and effort put into this video. Very illustrative and helpful! A few questions please, why do we need the output of two micro-inverter arrays to be combined first and then go to the combiner box? Can we wire the two outputs directly into the combiner box and then combine from there? Also, why do we need to wire the outputs through the attic? It seems easier to wire them directly to the combiner box using exterior conduit since both the micro-inverters and the combiner box are on the exterior side. Is it per code requirement?
This sure does look like a fun project and well done video. I might just watch it again. If you install you own system will you qualify for the govt. tax credit?
The video started off really well as I am getting close to starting my own DIY solar project, however when you got to the external Enphase box I got completely lost and I really do not know how all this installs electrically because you really rushed that part.
It was really simple - he brought in a the AC wire from the system, the AC wire from his panel and the two CTs and explained there was a wiring diagram on the box to show where everything landed. I think he didn't bother going into too much detail as not everyone will have only one solar run and not everyone will choose Enphase. You might choose a string inverter or an optimiser system or a combination.
Seemed pretty straight forward to me, I'm no solar professional, but I am a home owner.. all of the DC inverters are on the solar panels themselves, so they are already outputting 240 ac he took all of the 240ac solar conductors, combined them into the 4 inch electric box, labeled the white red to indicate the 2nd 120ac leg of the 240ac circuit.. made it super clean running pvc outside to the smart panel, installing them into 2 pole circuit breakers, with a cut off switch in between the smart panel and the main breaker box and a current clamp/probe around the house power main for monitoring... I mean this is enphase specific, so you'd probably have to do a little reading to see how each manufacturer wants their smart box setup.
Scott, I've seen loooots of your videos, and this has got to be my new favorite. This is the best DIY roof top solar install video I've ever seen. Thank you!!!!!! Here's another video idea: common reasons your roof should get replaced before installing rooftop solar! Things to look out for, reasons to call in an expert first, etc.
I had to give up on the positive/negative designation model since they are on both ends of the leads. On the panels they are output positive and negative and on the cable feed line they are input positive and negative. The quality of the pin metal is very important to look at. Low power solar is not as critical as for high power high current sections.
First of all you done an excellent job but I would never put holes in my house what if you need to reshingle your house that's a huge cost I'm moving to my small farm I have 5 acres big shop I'm building a roof rack on the ground and I'm not going to hook up to the grid I'll be totally off grid next year I could care less if they give me a dollar or two you still have to pay fees to the Pud even if you don't use any power the puds make the money off of your solar system and sell it to your neighbor total BS and there's about 20 other things I could say but I won't you did an excellent job I learned some things from you thank you PS I've heard of insurance companies canceling homeowners because they compromised the roof.
Nice. I am jealous and also looking at some land now to do a couple ground-mount installations. If you can do ground-mount I totally agree that is the way to go.
Great video man! Quick question - How does DIY'ing this impact the federal tax credits and utility rebates that are available? I'm comfortable doing the install, but I don't want to forego the savings from these programs.
DIY'ing has no impact on the federal tax credit whatsoever. If you ever pursue filing a credit you will see this is nothing more than a dollar figure on line 1 of form 5695, and line 5a if you have batteries.
You could have done a small string inverter like a Solar Edge. This way the system is easily expandable. I have another house where I will be expanding the Enphase setup by adding another 20 Amp branch.
I will release a video on Everyday Home Repairs this week will more on the cost, timeline, and how the inspection went. There will be any update video on this channel as well in a couple months once I get the green light from the utility but just a heads up on the other channel.
Excellent video Scott. Just for clarification since the title to this video says No More Power Bills, 7kw for your entire house seems a bit low and you've not mentioned any storage batteries to power the house after sunset either.
I would love to have the confidence to do something like this on my roof. Even though we have a ranch, ours is much higher off the ground, especially the side that would get the majority of the panels since it's over the walk out basement. Shame since we have 3500 sq/ft (not including garage) of space to put panels.
You could hire scaffolding and buy some proper safety hooks and vests - makes it a lot safer and easier to get the panels up, though I'd still suggest having help with that part.
Typical stud finders aren’t accurate at that distance. Unlike drywall on a stud you’ve got layers of shingle, weather guard, and decking before the rafter. I tried it this way on my own install without success. You’re better off tapping with a hammer, but even I ultimately caved and bought the tool in the video.
I thought the ground wire had to be continuous (no junctions allowed...) from the main panel, through your "concentrator" up to your PV array. If you have multiple arrays you need multiple grounds.
I went inside of my attic and drove a screw up right next to the rafter. From that point I knew where all the rafters were. When I finished, the flashing covered the hole left by my initial screw. My biggest issue was my roof pitch. Is 8/10 and very steep. Not fun!
just tape a big magnet to the side of your rafter from the attic, then put another magnet on the roof. am i the only person who has thought of this? lol
There are many different product and configurations that could make your system different as compared to the one installed in this video. You could join the Everyday Solar Facebook Group and post some pictures of your system components, electrical panel, etc. and that would give me a better idea of what your system has for hardware.
Hi Scott, I don't know if you read the comments but I'll ask anyway. I am in the UK and have a static caravan on the grid but want to run most of the leccy items on solar. I am a noob at electrics and would rather buy an 'all-in-one' system but these power systems are hella expensive for what is basically a battery, inverter, charge controller and some sockets in a fancy box. Looking at my grid leccy usage stats, I'm using around 3kWh per day, maybe up to 4 kWh if I have the washer on and air fryer. The stats of, say, the EcoFlow Delta Pro 3600kW appeal to me, but then I look at the price and wonder if I need something as meaty as that for my usage? Given that a 400W rigid panel typically seems to generate around 1 kWh to 2 kWh per day with typical British weather, and given how cheap the panels are here (JA Solar JAM54D41-440/LB 440W panel around £80 each (OCV 38.45V, MPV 31.86V, SCC 14.58A, MPC 13.81A, efficiency 22%), I wonder if you'd advise loading up on more 'cheap' panels to recharge the power station faster, thus allowing a cheaper unit with a smaller capacity and output? Caveat: I would like to boil my kettle off it, and it's a 3kW kettle. Obviously it would only be running for a few minutes, but am I right in thinking that only something like the $2500 EcoFlow Pro model with 3500W output would be able to run this, so I'd need to either get a less powerful kettle or use grid power? TIA!
Yeah, your use case is right on the edge of where building your own DIY system would be cheaper as compared to the all-in-one units like the EcoFlow Delta Pro. I would either do the Delta Pro or the Delta Pro 3 from EcoFlow. If you could get a Delta Pro on sale that would be my route but if not the additional capability for the Delta Pro 3 would be attractive. Here is a video on my other channel that compares the 2 units ruclips.net/video/LzFcdqZaSec/видео.html
Is there a reason you mounted the Enhase box on the outside of the house rather than inside next to the electrical panel? Was this simply a cosmetic preference or were there other considerations?
Wonder if you are allowed to install the Enphase box on the inside next to the electrical panel? I'm in Australia and we typically have the electrical panel in the meter box on the outside of the of the house. Solar installers quote I had wanted to install an extra box on the outside next to the meter box, said needs more room for solar components. I asked if can have inside out of the elements, but they were not keen due to extra wiring needed. Still don't have solar installed.
So the micro inverters eliminate the need for one or multiple inverters that receive from each panel array? Are these more upfront cost effective than a single inverter? If I understand correctly they are more helpful in pinpointing in the event of trouble shooting but the single inverter still will throw a code if there is an issue. Thank you.
Project Solar packaged everything up and it was delivered in 1 pallet and a couple long bunches of rails through a freight company who dropped it off at the house.
You don't need a bond to the rails with Enphase. The grounding is done through the chassis of the inverter and the trunk cable. Read the instructions dude. I have 36 Enphase M250s and mine passed inspection. I did have to show the dumb inspector the booklet and I won the argument.
Hi I have a question. Let's say I want to over panel my power station but I can't find the exact solar panel. For example my 500 watt solar panel is 42 volts can I use a 40 volts 500 watt solar panel to run it in parallel for my powerstation will it still work? Because when u over paneled ecoflow u used two pieces of helium 350 watts panels and they were both the same volts brands etc. Let's say in a case u couldn't find that exact helium 350 watts panel can u use other panel with slightly different volt and run in parallel thanks
What about if you need to replace your shingles in the future? What is the process for that? Do you remove all the panels, replace the shingles, and then install the panels again?
My roof is a lot steeper, and also, I dont know how I feel about drilling into my roof rafters so much. One of the frustrating things about solar is there is no consistency in panel sizing, so if a panel breaks, it's not always easy to find an exact replacement. Sure when the roof needs to be replaced, the shingles are replaced, but then what.. another round of 50+ lag screws into the rafters? How many holes can they take?
There will be additional labor associated to roof replacement when installing Solar Panels. I think the industry (roofing and solar) will need to get used to this in the coming years as more and more of the roofs they replace will have panels mounted. I don't think the structural integrity of the rafters will be significantly impacted by a couple lag screw holes.
What prevents the system from backfeeding the grid in the event of a power outage and potentially zapping a lineworker? I think my professionally installed system has an automatic shutoff switch but you didn’t mention anything in the section discussing your shutoff switch installation.
Enphase micro inverters will only output AC if they see forward current from the grid. While it protects the lineman during an outage, it’s a pretty big disadvantage for someone with a transfer switch or other mains disconnecting means. Even if you island the house, those micros wont produce any power.
Install a roof anchor for a harness. Home Depot sell a bucket o' rope + harness, and you can buy a permanent-mount anchor that you bolt on to the ridge.
@@fgbhrl4907 When you say bolt onto the ridge, you mean just for the project or permanently and what does that look like aesthetically if I left it there?
@@AFpaleoCon You can get galvanized ones that you can leave permanently in place. Google "Permanent roof anchor". You just nail it on to the ridge. It's a thin metal strap; you'll never see it.
Professional installers will have workers compensation board coverage,, and of course be more expensive, but probably be using a fall prevention harness so as not to fall off the roof and get killed. ruclips.net/video/cEgZhTozZ94/видео.html
Insurance companies are getting wise to these DIY installs. They are using drones to inspect roofs, then either dropping insurance altogether or sending a questionnaire asking if it was installed professionally or not. At which point, they drop your insurance.
This is permitted and will be approved by the utility. If you pull permits, get approved, and also approved by the utility how would insurance drop you?
@@everydaysolar, absolutely. If the permit is closed by the inspector, no insurance could say it was done incorrectly. This is just misinformation used to argue why solar isn't viable.
@@everydaysolar How? The same way a bank amends the terms and conditions of your credit card. I was recently informed I cannot make any DIY electrical repairs on my home. Permits don't matter. A licensed electrician must do all repairs. My electrician friend said that is beginning to be more common, especially in CA, where I am. Insurance companies are crooked. They do whatever they want.
21:45 you screwed the junction box to the roof and did not use any silicon to seal the screws. I would have. And the large hole should have had its own protection in addition to the thin bead of silicon on the back of the flashing. You claim that the panel will protect the box from direct rain. Unfortunately the junction box is subject to a river of water from the 36" of exposed roof near the peak of the roof. You really down played that immense hole and the 4 screws that you screwed in the roof without any protection. Screw hole should have been filled with silicon before screwing down the box. Also, you have the luxury of access to the attic. I have cathedral ceilings, as many do. How does this effect the installation of solar panels?
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Bringing down AC from the roof limits you so much. Why wouldn't you bring down DC for appliances and battery charging and then put the inverter after the mppt? I power my wireless router, cable modem, some laptops, and much more straight off the DC, no loss. I plan to put in DC appliances and tvs in my house as well, so eventually it's just the AC and microwave (dryer too?) that need AC. Again, the largest problem is the loss from converting DC to AC, then if you're using batteries, AC back to DC. Huge unacceptable loss for me the way you're doing it.
People on FL don’t let your homeowner’s insurance know you installed your own system instead of a licensed electrical contractor. Fire hazard shouldn’t be taken lightly
VIEWERS: THIIS VIDEO HAS MORE HOLES IN IT THAN SWISS CHEESE - HE'S LEAVING OUT TONSSSSS OF CONSIDERATIONS - BETTER VIDEOS OUT THERE THAN THIS ONE. HE DIDN'T EVEN SHOW HOW TO USE A HOLE SAW TO GET THROUGH TO THE PANEL!!!! UGGHHHHH
I installed my own solar system in Thousand Oaks California. The big challenge for me was the permit; I'd never applied for one before. I filed the permit application and started my Net Metering 2.0 application with Southern California Edison months before the cutoff deadline, but the city of TO took 9 MONTHS to issue the permit. When I passed final inspection I was able to complete my NEM 2.0 application, but when I logged into SCE, I found the application I'd started months ago had been deleted, even though I'd paid the fee. It took a lot of complaining, but SCE finally allowed my to get NEM 2.0.
BTW, I asked the inspector how many DIY solar jobs he'd seen and he replied "you're it."
Yeah, something tells me I might be the only DIY solar install in my area as well. 9 months is insane for issue a permit, simply unacceptable. My city took 24-48 hours and I give them a lot of credit being so on top of the permits.
@@everydaysolar what was the savings from DIY and contracting out
@@ProximusTrinitas this question is ambiguous because it's going to depend on things like how many panels you're installing, if you're putting it on your roof and how much space you have on your roof, whether or not you use a battery system and how many batteries, what size inverter you're using, etc. what you would have to do is call an installer to do an estimate and then compare it with how much it would cost you to purchase the materials yourself. Also there is labor on your side and it's free in the sense that you don't have to pay for it but it's not free in the sense that it still consumes your time and effort and if you're not savvy Jen you may take even more time as you run into unforeseen hurdles.
YES. My 6.3KW array cost $10K after the FED rebate. I get 8.3MWH per year in Spokane Washington. I bought the components as a kit and had it installed in only two days. I have had ZERO problems after six years and paid ZERO $ for electricity. ❤❤. You can do this.
Thanks so much for the feedback and nice work on the system 🙌
Really you have a "6.3KW array" which implies just panels, but no cost for batteries? How do you pay ZERO" for electricity with no battery bank? LOL I call BS. 10 grand for 6.3KW isn't a bargain BTW. Panels keep getting cheaper by the day. You can buy 12.4KW of Aptos panels for $4500 an inverter for $1400 and battery bank for $1150 X3 plus cables and mounts = 10 grand. The "FED rebate" must not be very high.
This is a really great video, almost no one shows how to actaully do the whole installation. Subbed.
Welcome to the channel 👍
I have been following this channel and never subscribed. Sometimes you just forget so right there with you 👍🏻👍🏻subscribed
I completed a 2 1/2 year DIY Ground Mount project in May 2024. I started the project because for the first time in 57 years I didn't have anything technical to work on. I ran into unexpected problems in every part of this project. Bright spots were, GreenLancer for prints, NAZ for PowerField Power buckets and Santan Solar for some off brand panels that are working great so far. If you want details about things that were sometimes very difficult I can write it up. It is a long list.
That's awesome you completed a DIY install, and w off brand panels! Smart!
I've heard a lot of good and bad about Santan Solar...how was your experience with them? Did you have any hardware performance issues? Did you have any opportunity to test the products before buying or is there a reasonable return policy? Were they freight shipped to your door, or are you in their area and picked it up yourself?
@@zeer0h Santan solar was basically no B.S. with me. They would split a pallet. NAZ seemed to know what they were doing and were pleasant to deal with. The GreenLancer guy I worked with knew more about Solar, by far, than anyone else I dealt with.
Hardware; My power company still has Net metering. I was far into my project when I found out my pedestal's original, dating back to 1998, wiring did not meet code. Before I actually started work I had sent excellent pictures of the pedestal wiring to several professionals who saw nothing wrong with how it was wired. But I agreed with the inspector that how it was wired was not acceptable and would require a significant wiring change. In my working career in Phoenix Az I had installed hundreds of cabinets outdoors. I could not bring myself to put a plastic $800 Enphase IQ4 combiner cabinet that has $560 of electronics inside of it, in direct sunlight. Especially with all the crazies with guns where I live. I learned that the system would work just fine without the Envoy, only after I had installed everything. Because my system is ground mount I can easily maintain it without the Envoy. The Enphase Envoy does provide interesting, very useful performance information. I originally thought I would buy just the Envoy without the Combiner but when I figured out how much it would cost to mount the Envoy I bought the IQ4 and mounted it in my detached garage with only the Envoy connected in it. Trenching was insanely difficult because of ROCKS, water lines and sewer line. The first thing I should have bought is a Big SDS-MAX.
Use a couple of large neodymium magnets either side of the rafter, and another couple of magnets on a jig to match them, and use it to find where they snap together - then drill through the hole on the jig and it should be exactly in the center of the rafter.
Another way is to light a fire underneath and use a thermal camera to spot the rafter! 🙂
Far easier to use big honkin' lasers. They burn a hole and illuminate them at the same time. Just make sure no aircraft are flying overhead. 😅
Loved this video Scott. Enphase is really gaining more popularity depending on the customer's needs. I really liked how you broke everything down from the wiring, to how all of the Enphase pieces work together. Very educational stuff. You're killing it!
Thanks for the kind words and appreciate the support 👍
Awesome full install video. I used Enphase micros and Iron Ridge for my 2nd array - very easy to install and negates shading issues (I have a chimney sometimes in the way of 2-3 panels but in the summer it's not even in the way!). Hardest part was drilling the first hole in my roof through the rafter. I used a hammer to locate them well and only missed 1/16 of my pilot holes. Simply drilled 3/4" over from it and the micro flashing covered the bad hole (along with a drop of caulk). I don't like the idea of ruining shingles and removing nails so I used Quickbolt 2 microflashing, easier to place anywhere along the rafter and less work! No leaks or problems at all and I am at 4.5 years. I did find it interesting how many more roof penetrations you had to do but it looks like part of that was from your horizontal orientation (some panels cannot be installed that way, read the instructions), and some was do to needing splices. My 14ft rails didn't need any splicing. Anyway just throwing out a few things I did differently in case that's helpful to someone. I also ran metal conduit off the back rail because it was right at the back of my house where I needed the disconnect and to go into the basement for my main panel. I would definitely recommend all the products you used here! Like I said, no issues with any of my equipment so far!
This was an amazing breakdown.
Doing a comparison of my California permitted installed in a rural county the amount of little details that are needed make it so hard to get DIY in California.
California Specifics include:
Rapid Shutdown Requirements
Proper wiring clips
Different rules on setbacks (Some of them more positive to installs)
Armored conduit on DC circuits in the attic
Proper labeling
Map plague diagram at Main Panel
Proper Cut Sheets, Site Plan and Wiring Diagrams to get the permit (I used GreenLancer and it looked like a Pro Diagram)
After all of the small things I made sure to not miss the inspector came out, checked my disconnects and stickers and signed off on it never once getting on the roof or checking my attic.
I’ve done >10 projects helping neighbors here in CT. Overall, great overview showing the installation process. Especially helpful for people to understand how it protects from leaks. 3 notes: in our area it’s mostly 16” spacing of rafters so if you’re seeing 24”, it must be a regional thing, using optimizers on panels and one inverter at the ground level helps keeps the equipment most likely to require maintenance in a convenient location, installing a 2nd socket for the utility to place a special meter measuring Solar electricity output gives valuable information.
Hey Matt, thanks so much for your feedback. Do you usually use SolarEdge for your string inverters?
Excellent video Scott - a lot of work went into it.
Thanks, this one took a few hours 😅
This is, BY FAR, the best video of this sort I've ever seen. I've seen a lot of "conceptual" and partial installs, but never any that were this clear and detailed with EXACTLY how to do this. THANK YOU!!!!!
I'm just starting to research the viability of installing solar on my house. Your video is fantastic. Everything makes sense, and it definitely looks like a project I could take on myself. Even the electrical, although I would probably hire a pro for that.
That was very handy, even though roofing and the electrical system is different here it is a great run through of the micro inverter layout and setup.
Thanks, hopefully more examples to come. I really want to do a ground-mount and grid-tied system next.
Great video and great install! I really enjoyed seeing the drone view and hearing the explanation behind each step of the process. It’d be great to see the finished product from the drone!
Comparing your install to how my company does it in Southern California was the fun part. I can tell that you are in a high-wind area based on your racking and attachment usage. It looks like you are using Ironridge XR100 rails and you mentioned 4ft max spacing. Majority of the residential installs I have seen use XR10 and have a max footing space of 6ft.
In addition, while I can’t speak to every single jurisdictions’ code requirements, there are a few things that we like to do that can be life savers for the future. First, regarding the electrical connections in the junction boxes on the roof, we like to use waterproof wire nuts for the hot connections. No matter how highly rated your junction box is, if you are using glands, you will get water in the junction box. It’s frustrating, but multiple times I’ve come back to an install and saw a nice puddle of water just sitting in the j-box waiting to ground or short a connection after the next rain. Placing it under the module helps significantly, but is not always a guarantee that it will not happen. Second, as a means to counter any water build-up because of water intrusion, weep holes are a common requirement that I have been called out for in a number of our inspections. To code, I believe they should be between 1/8 and 3/8 inch diameter and need to be in the back or lower parts of the walls of the junction box. One is a must, but two just in case one gets plugged from the outside. Lastly, in regarding the ground bonding for your system, it is best to use a permanent or semi-permanent connection rather than a simple ground bar. While these are not grounded systems, it helps to have bonding that can withstand whatever you throw out it. We like to use thin wall C tap compression connections to bond any ground connections that are made in the j-box, components, and in the main (strip a section of the solar system ground and c-tap to the main panel grounding wire, and then land the end of the solar ground on the main bar). Not saying these are code requirements, but after seeing what can happen despite your best efforts to ensure everything is installed certifiably, I recommend that any DIYer do these little things.
And going back to your install, really highlight the need of mapping your micros, or optimizers if you are using a string inverter. If you ever need to trouble shoot your system, and you most likely will, this will save you so much headache. It especially helps if you are solo on the roof trying to remove modules that are now covering your modular components.
Good luck with your inspection and I hope your utility grants your permission to operate soon, or whatever they may call it in your area! Looking forward to the next video once it starts cranking
Thanks for all the great feedback. I actually noticed EX Solar updated the junction box since the last one I installed and they added weep holes to the bottom on both sides. I agree on the mapping and bet a lot of DIYers would miss that part.
My parents have just had 3 quotes for a solar array coming in at 52k,55k and 72k. Absolutely ridiculous prices when I figure about 30k max for what they need. DIY is the only option apparently in Salem Oregon and that would give them a huge amount of solar.
Yikes! How many kW were they quoting you for the system size? Roof mounted?
@@everydaysolar Garage roof mounted 71 panels give or take and there is no chance they called for that many. I don’t remember the kilowatts but it was massive. My 5.44kw gets me to zero utility bills and they don’t use much more than I do. Electric bill goes between 400-600 a month
One thing to keep in mind is "bird management". I installed panels on my house in Tucson and a couple of years later found out that several rat-birds (also known as "pigeons" built several nests under them. Had to install plastic mess around them to keep the rats out of the thing.
You do a great job with your videos. You give so much excellent, detailed information on all areas of this job. I think this is the best installation video I have seen on any topic.
Thanks for the feedback and support 👍
Great video. This is one of the most comprehensive videos on DIY solar, and I've designed and helped installed half a dozen DIY solar systems.
Thanks for the feedback!
This is great if you don’t mind getting up on your roof for any potential issues in the future. Otherwise, find a reputable (not a door to door high pressure salesperson) with reasonable pricing and go with them.
@ 28:52. I see you have a window unit using the accordion gap fillers. You should get some insulating foam boards & place them on the outside in front of the gap fillers. It will greatly reduce the air gap it creates. A lot of hot air leaks in from those. Then tape off the back with weatherproof tape & something to make it not stand out so much.
Great video! I am looking to do a similar project at my home in Southwest Michigan. As a DIY person I am trying to determine the way to go. I am glad you showed a DIY approach for roof mounted solar on a shingled room. I am looking forward to hearing how the inspections and untility approval goes.
Inspection is scheduled for tomorrow at 2:30. I will release a more condensed version of this video over on Everyday Home Repairs this week and also include the results of the inspection.
Can we get a list of materials and parts like panels, rails, boxes, etc, a list from Enphase I have researched this products , does Enphase help with design? Thank you for all your videos I follow most that you have produced!
If you need a "list" you probably shouldn't be trying this
Scott, although the rails can be installed on either side of the mounting foot, I spoke with my design company and they agreed that mounting the rail on the top side of the foot would make it stronger.
I initially installed mine on the downside before realizing it and changed them before putting the panels on.
Yeah, my thought was to hide the hardware from the ground. I am curious how mounting on the top with hardware facing down helps with the overall strength 🤔.
@@everydaysolar well you use the strength of the foot to hold the weight of the rail when it's on the upside instead of just the square bolt that slides into the channel when it's on the downside.
If you have squirrels (tree rats) near you and can't install the rails vertically up the slope of the roof, you should install squirrel guard around the perimeter (minimum).
Yeah, agree that is a good add to keep the critters out.
Using a micro-inverter per panel seems like it would get costly pretty quickly for a larger system. What are the advantages of using per-panel inverter, rather than a string inverter?
In my area Enphase micro inverters are very common for roof-mounted installation. You need rapid shutdown to meet code all the way up to the panel so even if you go with a string inverter you will have power optimizers at each panel to help with shade but also to provide the needed shutdown capability to meet code.
This is a fantastic video of how to do it yourself. I’m installing the system soon and this is very helpful. Thank you.
Nice, best of luck on your installation. 👊
They make a handy tool called the Magnespot that would greatly help with locating the trust from the other side of the roof. It not a cheap tool that a diy person would want to buy though
truly amazing video! wtf do people do if/when they need to re-shingle the roof? I'm assuming it all has to come back off.
That is correct, it is probably another $2K-$3K of labor on a roofing job. Not sure how this will all pan out as more and more roofs come up for replacement with panels installed. Will the roofing company build up their skills or will you need to call in a solar company to facility the removal and reinstall.
Why’d you use 10 gauge for 20A? Just curious the rational
Still shocking how expensive this is even if you do it yourself. Looking at the calculator you posted. My 262$ electric bill would be 18k in materials to diy. And still shows I would have a bill in the 70s.
Watching that roof flex has me curious as to how long this will last. Going to need updates.
This is the best video what I've watched! Appreciate what you've shared!
Happy to help, more like this to come 👍
I loved the video. It makes this type of project seem very approachable. I love solar, but have been hesitant to pursue it for my home because i didn't think i could manage it myself. based on this video, i might try it. it would be helpful to know the size home you're installing this for, and perhaps overall cost (even if you're given a break on your price, what could i expect trying to do the same thing?)
The home is only 1300 sq ft and here is a little more information on the timeline and cost at the end of the video ruclips.net/video/hBvb1qq2O3g/видео.html
@@everydaysolar omg you actually replied to my comment! thanks! also, thanks for making all these videos. i've saved an unknown amount of money from watching your videos. i recommend you to everyone i can.
Ironridge HUG mounts are a bit more forgiving and easier to install. It's flashless, so some people might feel it won't be as solid. Cost is similar and ironridge is a good name.
Hoymiles microinverters might have been cheaper for this job. They have 4 panel modules that cost less than 2 single panel modules. Single panel modules give you flexibility that perhaps wasnt needed fir this application.
Thanks for the great info Scott. I rearranged my plan based on your comment about the 36" minimum "fire way" then I bunched my planned 21 panels like yours. Questions: what is the correct panel to panel spacing for the fasteners, I used 0.75" in both directions. Is there a minimum for the panel to the lower edge of the roof line? Thanks for the info and discount code!
You need 36in from the edge, and 18 on each side of the ridge or peak of the roof. 18 + 18 = 36
In Colorado springs, you have to be an "authorized" contractor to do a permitted solar installation. I'd like to do this diy but not sure how one would get around this.
Bummer, in our area if you own the house you can pull permits and do the work. Just passed inspection yesterday 👍
Congratulations! You did a great job on your install.
Thank you for the time and effort put into this video. Very illustrative and helpful! A few questions please, why do we need the output of two micro-inverter arrays to be combined first and then go to the combiner box? Can we wire the two outputs directly into the combiner box and then combine from there? Also, why do we need to wire the outputs through the attic? It seems easier to wire them directly to the combiner box using exterior conduit since both the micro-inverters and the combiner box are on the exterior side. Is it per code requirement?
Excellent job! I would recommend that you add a schematic of the electric hookups.
Thanks for the feedback!
This sure does look like a fun project and well done video. I might just watch it again. If you install you own system will you qualify for the govt. tax credit?
Yep for sure on the 30% tax credit. In Illinois we have renewable energy credits and that one we are trying to work through now.
The video started off really well as I am getting close to starting my own DIY solar project, however when you got to the external Enphase box I got completely lost and I really do not know how all this installs electrically because you really rushed that part.
It was really simple - he brought in a the AC wire from the system, the AC wire from his panel and the two CTs and explained there was a wiring diagram on the box to show where everything landed. I think he didn't bother going into too much detail as not everyone will have only one solar run and not everyone will choose Enphase. You might choose a string inverter or an optimiser system or a combination.
Thanks for the feedback. I will try and separate out a more detailed look at this part of the project in the future 👍
@@everydaysolar thank you very much, your videos are really good, keep up the great work!
Seemed pretty straight forward to me, I'm no solar professional, but I am a home owner.. all of the DC inverters are on the solar panels themselves, so they are already outputting 240 ac he took all of the 240ac solar conductors, combined them into the 4 inch electric box, labeled the white red to indicate the 2nd 120ac leg of the 240ac circuit.. made it super clean running pvc outside to the smart panel, installing them into 2 pole circuit breakers, with a cut off switch in between the smart panel and the main breaker box and a current clamp/probe around the house power main for monitoring... I mean this is enphase specific, so you'd probably have to do a little reading to see how each manufacturer wants their smart box setup.
I thought enphase doesn't allow DIY installs
Super helpful video.
Suggestion for next project - insulate your attic!
I like how your electric bill is cheaper than my 1/1 high rise apartment, haha. Good ol florida.
Our electricity is cheap at $0.08 / kWh.
Scott, I've seen loooots of your videos, and this has got to be my new favorite. This is the best DIY roof top solar install video I've ever seen. Thank you!!!!!!
Here's another video idea: common reasons your roof should get replaced before installing rooftop solar! Things to look out for, reasons to call in an expert first, etc.
Thanks so much for the feedback!
Fantastic step by step video. Thanks for sharing.
Nice install! 👍
I had to give up on the positive/negative designation model since they are on both ends of the leads. On the panels they are output positive and negative and on the cable feed line they are input positive and negative.
The quality of the pin metal is very important to look at. Low power solar is not as critical as for high power high current sections.
Thanks!
Thanks so much for the support!
Great overall video
Thanks!
First of all you done an excellent job but I would never put holes in my house what if you need to reshingle your house that's a huge cost I'm moving to my small farm I have 5 acres big shop I'm building a roof rack on the ground and I'm not going to hook up to the grid I'll be totally off grid next year I could care less if they give me a dollar or two you still have to pay fees to the Pud even if you don't use any power the puds make the money off of your solar system and sell it to your neighbor total BS and there's about 20 other things I could say but I won't you did an excellent job I learned some things from you thank you PS I've heard of insurance companies canceling homeowners because they compromised the roof.
Nice. I am jealous and also looking at some land now to do a couple ground-mount installations. If you can do ground-mount I totally agree that is the way to go.
Great video man! Quick question - How does DIY'ing this impact the federal tax credits and utility rebates that are available? I'm comfortable doing the install, but I don't want to forego the savings from these programs.
DIY'ing has no impact on the federal tax credit whatsoever. If you ever pursue filing a credit you will see this is nothing more than a dollar figure on line 1 of form 5695, and line 5a if you have batteries.
Why did you use the combined box given the small install? Wouldn’t it be cheaper to just wire the string directly into the disconnect box?
You could have done a small string inverter like a Solar Edge. This way the system is easily expandable. I have another house where I will be expanding the Enphase setup by adding another 20 Amp branch.
This is so cool. Would love to see how much in total you have spent on this project!
I will release a video on Everyday Home Repairs this week will more on the cost, timeline, and how the inspection went. There will be any update video on this channel as well in a couple months once I get the green light from the utility but just a heads up on the other channel.
Excellent video Scott. Just for clarification since the title to this video says No More Power Bills, 7kw for your entire house seems a bit low and you've not mentioned any storage batteries to power the house after sunset either.
Enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing
Well done. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
I would love to have the confidence to do something like this on my roof. Even though we have a ranch, ours is much higher off the ground, especially the side that would get the majority of the panels since it's over the walk out basement. Shame since we have 3500 sq/ft (not including garage) of space to put panels.
You could hire scaffolding and buy some proper safety hooks and vests - makes it a lot safer and easier to get the panels up, though I'd still suggest having help with that part.
Thanks for sharing!!!
You bet
Why not use a stud finder to locate the trusses?
Typical stud finders aren’t accurate at that distance. Unlike drywall on a stud you’ve got layers of shingle, weather guard, and decking before the rafter. I tried it this way on my own install without success. You’re better off tapping with a hammer, but even I ultimately caved and bought the tool in the video.
@@Misterkoll ah got ya, good info . How did your install go ?
I wish project solar was available to make diy plans for people in Canada
I thought the ground wire had to be continuous (no junctions allowed...) from the main panel, through your "concentrator" up to your PV array. If you have multiple arrays you need multiple grounds.
So how much was it? You save $7k so how much was it out pocket it? does something like this qualify for any incentives?
Are 'whole house' circuit breakers ever used on the solar installation? Please explain why or why not.
I went inside of my attic and drove a screw up right next to the rafter. From that point I knew where all the rafters were. When I finished, the flashing covered the hole left by my initial screw. My biggest issue was my roof pitch. Is 8/10 and very steep. Not fun!
just tape a big magnet to the side of your rafter from the attic, then put another magnet on the roof. am i the only person who has thought of this? lol
That's odd @28:00 My Enphase M250s required a 12/3 and needed the neutral. I went with a 10/3 upsized.
I always see these videos for shingle rooves, but never tile roofs like the vast majority of the homes in the southwest.
I would totally do this if I had a shed farther away that needed power.
Hello, I just bought a house with solar panels installed. Can you explain to me how they work? Thy
There are many different product and configurations that could make your system different as compared to the one installed in this video. You could join the Everyday Solar Facebook Group and post some pictures of your system components, electrical panel, etc. and that would give me a better idea of what your system has for hardware.
dude, you been workin out!
Hi Scott, I don't know if you read the comments but I'll ask anyway. I am in the UK and have a static caravan on the grid but want to run most of the leccy items on solar. I am a noob at electrics and would rather buy an 'all-in-one' system but these power systems are hella expensive for what is basically a battery, inverter, charge controller and some sockets in a fancy box. Looking at my grid leccy usage stats, I'm using around 3kWh per day, maybe up to 4 kWh if I have the washer on and air fryer. The stats of, say, the EcoFlow Delta Pro 3600kW appeal to me, but then I look at the price and wonder if I need something as meaty as that for my usage? Given that a 400W rigid panel typically seems to generate around 1 kWh to 2 kWh per day with typical British weather, and given how cheap the panels are here (JA Solar JAM54D41-440/LB 440W panel around £80 each (OCV 38.45V, MPV 31.86V, SCC 14.58A, MPC 13.81A, efficiency 22%), I wonder if you'd advise loading up on more 'cheap' panels to recharge the power station faster, thus allowing a cheaper unit with a smaller capacity and output? Caveat: I would like to boil my kettle off it, and it's a 3kW kettle. Obviously it would only be running for a few minutes, but am I right in thinking that only something like the $2500 EcoFlow Pro model with 3500W output would be able to run this, so I'd need to either get a less powerful kettle or use grid power? TIA!
Yeah, your use case is right on the edge of where building your own DIY system would be cheaper as compared to the all-in-one units like the EcoFlow Delta Pro. I would either do the Delta Pro or the Delta Pro 3 from EcoFlow. If you could get a Delta Pro on sale that would be my route but if not the additional capability for the Delta Pro 3 would be attractive. Here is a video on my other channel that compares the 2 units ruclips.net/video/LzFcdqZaSec/видео.html
@@everydaysolar thanks scott.
Is there a reason you mounted the Enhase box on the outside of the house rather than inside next to the electrical panel? Was this simply a cosmetic preference or were there other considerations?
Wonder if you are allowed to install the Enphase box on the inside next to the electrical panel? I'm in Australia and we typically have the electrical panel in the meter box on the outside of the of the house. Solar installers quote I had wanted to install an extra box on the outside next to the meter box, said needs more room for solar components. I asked if can have inside out of the elements, but they were not keen due to extra wiring needed. Still don't have solar installed.
Great overall video Scott, If anyone knows of a good installation company in Augusta, GA please let me know. I'm looking to get a system installed.
So the micro inverters eliminate the need for one or multiple inverters that receive from each panel array? Are these more upfront cost effective than a single inverter? If I understand correctly they are more helpful in pinpointing in the event of trouble shooting but the single inverter still will throw a code if there is an issue. Thank you.
I'm in Indiana. Where did you buy the rails? Looks like they might be too long to ship?
Project Solar packaged everything up and it was delivered in 1 pallet and a couple long bunches of rails through a freight company who dropped it off at the house.
hi what is the price of the micro inverter used in this project
You don't need a bond to the rails with Enphase. The grounding is done through the chassis of the inverter and the trunk cable. Read the instructions dude. I have 36 Enphase M250s and mine passed inspection. I did have to show the dumb inspector the booklet and I won the argument.
Hi I have a question. Let's say I want to over panel my power station but I can't find the exact solar panel. For example my 500 watt solar panel is 42 volts can I use a 40 volts 500 watt solar panel to run it in parallel for my powerstation will it still work? Because when u over paneled ecoflow u used two pieces of helium 350 watts panels and they were both the same volts brands etc. Let's say in a case u couldn't find that exact helium 350 watts panel can u use other panel with slightly different volt and run in parallel thanks
❤ very nice work ❤❤
Thx!
@@everydaysolar bro welcome to Pakistan 🇵🇰
What about if you need to replace your shingles in the future? What is the process for that? Do you remove all the panels, replace the shingles, and then install the panels again?
Yep, it is a pain and/or additional labor cost in the future to replace the roof.
Install high quality shingles.
My roof is a lot steeper, and also, I dont know how I feel about drilling into my roof rafters so much. One of the frustrating things about solar is there is no consistency in panel sizing, so if a panel breaks, it's not always easy to find an exact replacement. Sure when the roof needs to be replaced, the shingles are replaced, but then what.. another round of 50+ lag screws into the rafters? How many holes can they take?
There will be additional labor associated to roof replacement when installing Solar Panels. I think the industry (roofing and solar) will need to get used to this in the coming years as more and more of the roofs they replace will have panels mounted. I don't think the structural integrity of the rafters will be significantly impacted by a couple lag screw holes.
What prevents the system from backfeeding the grid in the event of a power outage and potentially zapping a lineworker? I think my professionally installed system has an automatic shutoff switch but you didn’t mention anything in the section discussing your shutoff switch installation.
Enphase micro inverters will only output AC if they see forward current from the grid. While it protects the lineman during an outage, it’s a pretty big disadvantage for someone with a transfer switch or other mains disconnecting means. Even if you island the house, those micros wont produce any power.
I can do this, I've screwed up way more major things that my roof
Was 10-2 Romex required when going from the external box into your attic? Would 12-2 have worked too?
Yes, 12/2 would have been large enough to carry the load for both the 8 panel array and definitely for the 4 panel array.
Can you phase 10 gauge wire?
Did you switch all your appliances over to electric first, so as to have your sizing correct to your load?
Nope, This house has gas for furnace and water heater.
Now Scott, would you advise I do this on my 3 story house with dormers. That's the question. It's south facing but how do I keep myself from dying?
Install a roof anchor for a harness. Home Depot sell a bucket o' rope + harness, and you can buy a permanent-mount anchor that you bolt on to the ridge.
@@fgbhrl4907 When you say bolt onto the ridge, you mean just for the project or permanently and what does that look like aesthetically if I left it there?
@@AFpaleoCon You can get galvanized ones that you can leave permanently in place. Google "Permanent roof anchor". You just nail it on to the ridge. It's a thin metal strap; you'll never see it.
How is this eliminating the power bill witout storege batteries for night usage??
Our utility still offers a 1-to-1 Net Metering which is key part of the equation.
Professional installers will have workers compensation board coverage,, and of course be more expensive, but probably be using a fall prevention harness so as not to fall off the roof and get killed.
ruclips.net/video/cEgZhTozZ94/видео.html
Insurance companies are getting wise to these DIY installs. They are using drones to inspect roofs, then either dropping insurance altogether or sending a questionnaire asking if it was installed professionally or not. At which point, they drop your insurance.
This is permitted and will be approved by the utility. If you pull permits, get approved, and also approved by the utility how would insurance drop you?
@@everydaysolar, absolutely. If the permit is closed by the inspector, no insurance could say it was done incorrectly. This is just misinformation used to argue why solar isn't viable.
@@everydaysolar How? The same way a bank amends the terms and conditions of your credit card. I was recently informed I cannot make any DIY electrical repairs on my home. Permits don't matter. A licensed electrician must do all repairs. My electrician friend said that is beginning to be more common, especially in CA, where I am. Insurance companies are crooked. They do whatever they want.
@@rtsrts2317 This does not matter if it is approved by inspection.
It's a solar power station not a solar system. Solar system is what is space and planets.
21:45 you screwed the junction box to the roof and did not use any silicon to seal the screws. I would have. And the large hole should have had its own protection in addition to the thin bead of silicon on the back of the flashing. You claim that the panel will protect the box from direct rain. Unfortunately the junction box is subject to a river of water from the 36" of exposed roof near the peak of the roof. You really down played that immense hole and the 4 screws that you screwed in the roof without any protection. Screw hole should have been filled with silicon before screwing down the box. Also, you have the luxury of access to the attic. I have cathedral ceilings, as many do. How does this effect the installation of solar panels?
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What was your total investment?
Your shingles don't appear to be properly nailed.
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Bringing down AC from the roof limits you so much. Why wouldn't you bring down DC for appliances and battery charging and then put the inverter after the mppt? I power my wireless router, cable modem, some laptops, and much more straight off the DC, no loss. I plan to put in DC appliances and tvs in my house as well, so eventually it's just the AC and microwave (dryer too?) that need AC. Again, the largest problem is the loss from converting DC to AC, then if you're using batteries, AC back to DC. Huge unacceptable loss for me the way you're doing it.
People on FL don’t let your homeowner’s insurance know you installed your own system instead of a licensed electrical contractor. Fire hazard shouldn’t be taken lightly
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unless you disconnect your power you will have a bill !
Yeah, we run about $16-$18 per month even with 0 kWh imported.
VIEWERS: THIIS VIDEO HAS MORE HOLES IN IT THAN SWISS CHEESE - HE'S LEAVING OUT TONSSSSS OF CONSIDERATIONS - BETTER VIDEOS OUT THERE THAN THIS ONE. HE DIDN'T EVEN SHOW HOW TO USE A HOLE SAW TO GET THROUGH TO THE PANEL!!!! UGGHHHHH
too difficult for me to