Dip that scion in some rooting hormone (clonex is very good) before you wrap it up. Also, placing a wet rag or paper towel around the graft helps the success rate. Wrap the whole thing with some kind of plastic. Check every day to make sure it’s moist. In 14 days, voilà!
Yes my camera wasn’t working well that day for close ups. If I had a time machine I’d certainly go back and do those shots again, hope you learned from the video anyway.
Ruby. I just watched the video and what a bad job. The guy should have just turned around and showed his back to the camera and just talked. How lame!!!!!
What a good question! Well, the way you make the cut, there's a little sliver on one of the trees that looks a bit like a tongue and slips into the appropriate cut in the second tree. And whip is the name for a young, year old fruit tree! Not sure if that's why they actually called the technique whip and tongue but that's how I think about it! :-)
For plums, apples, and pear, how long should/could the rubber band be left on the graft? I tend to think I should keep it there for as long as it could without girdling the branch. Otherwise, on poorly-fitted spots, it could "spring apart" if I remove the rubber band too early .
Yes, I made that video a while back. There’s lots of detailed shots in my online grafting course at learn.orchardpeople.com if you ever want to take a deep dive into grafting!
Hi Dustin, often nurseries do either whip and tongue and/or bud grafting. It depends on what time of year they want to do it. Bud grafting is in the summer and whip and tongue can only be done in the early spring as the tree emerges from dormancy. Both are great and you will end up with a beautiful grafted fruit tree!
Because they can do it fast and when taped, it's far less fragile when there are hundreds or hundreds of thousands trees butted up against each together as they're healing and growing. To have scions sticking out means risk of knocking them out of position in a commercial production context.
Hi Rajbir. Great question! Steph from Silver Creek Nurseries says that would have been a general grafting wax; back then Ken would use whatever was commercially available. Since then Steph's sister has been making it for us using local beeswax, rosin and linseed oil. There are recipes online. Steph says you want a consistency that is tacky and solid when cool, liquid when warm, but it shouldn't need to be too hot before it's melted or else you may burn the tree. In their recipe, rosin provides the sticky bit, and linseed oil and beeswax mix to get the melting point good.
Hi Brett, he graft union should be 4-6" at least above the ground. More doesn't hurt, but if you go closer to the ground you risk the top variety rooting which will then bypass the dwarfing effect of the rootstock.
Brett, you can start it at knee high if you don't have deer issues. Just be sure to take off any sprouts from the rootstock, anything below the graft. Then, as you prune to determine the structure of the tree, it's knee, waist, shoulder (annually) to establish the main structure of where to prune each year for the first 4 years so that in the end, you don't need a ladder to harvest a productive tree.
Good question! It needs to be tight enough to be secure. Once the roots and scion fuse together you will remove it so don’t worry about the rubber damaging the tree.
@@Orchardpeople I guess my question is, "can you tighten the rubber band too much" that it'll prevent a take? Or would a rubber band break before it could do that?
Hi Geriann, actually I don't sell fruit trees. I focus on fruit tree care education. Have you googled to see if there are any specialist fruit tree nurseries in Barbados? You can probably grow lots of wonderful fruits there.
@@Orchardpeople we could indeed being a tropical island but its so difficult to get exotic fruit trees in however ornamentals are easy to source & import.
These are very good questions. Root stock is needed because it offers really wonderful qualities to the tree. Some root stocks will make a tree more dwarfing - so in maturity it will be a smaller tree and easier to harvest. Some root stocks offer other disease resistance. Even if it was easy to root the scion, you would lose out on all the benefits of the root stock options. Some root stocks are well adapted to clay soil and others are good for Sandy soil. There are lots of reasons why we graft fruit trees. Hope that helps! And thanks for asking!
I'm gonna try this in the spring. Thanks for getting back. Looking at M-111 Apple Rootstock - EMLA 111 if I can get it. I would like to try this on apple and sourwood trees. How do you find the right rootstock for the soil? Where can i research this?
There are lots of great resources online and it’s good to focus on a local one. Here’s the one I use! www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/crops/facts/00-007.htm. Good luck with it!
I did watch the entire video. What a great red jacket and a nice wool sweater. Come on you guys-------you are making a video with a camera! duh! get in close to see what you have done so people can see IN DETAIL how you made the graft.
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That was very interesting, thank you!
Thank you!
Great tutorial vid. Thanks for sharing your knowledge 👍🌴🌿☘🍃🌿
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great ❤
Thank you!
Dip that scion in some rooting hormone (clonex is very good) before you wrap it up. Also, placing a wet rag or paper towel around the graft helps the success rate. Wrap the whole thing with some kind of plastic. Check every day to make sure it’s moist.
In 14 days, voilà!
Rooting hormone is interesting if it increases success rates. I will research. Thanks!
I have seen gardeners try their best NOT to keep the area wet. They wrap the whole area with wrapping tape to achieve that.
Bad camera work. Just zoom in so that we can see how it's done.
Yes my camera wasn’t working well that day for close ups. If I had a time machine I’d certainly go back and do those shots again, hope you learned from the video anyway.
@@Orchardpeople Maybe that would be a hint to do this again.
Ruby. I just watched the video and what a bad job. The guy should have just turned around and showed his back to the camera and just talked. How lame!!!!!
Lesson to learn
Why it is named Whip & Tongue grafting? Thanks for the answer.
What a good question! Well, the way you make the cut, there's a little sliver on one of the trees that looks a bit like a tongue and slips into the appropriate cut in the second tree. And whip is the name for a young, year old fruit tree! Not sure if that's why they actually called the technique whip and tongue but that's how I think about it! :-)
Like it
For plums, apples, and pear, how long should/could the rubber band be left on the graft? I tend to think I should keep it there for as long as it could without girdling the branch. Otherwise, on poorly-fitted spots, it could "spring apart" if I remove the rubber band too early .
Yes I would agree ! At some point the two parts will merge but I would wait at least 4 to 8 weeks before checking it!
Wish you had shown it from closer
Yes, I made that video a while back. There’s lots of detailed shots in my online grafting course at learn.orchardpeople.com if you ever want to take a deep dive into grafting!
Why do I see so many trees from nurseries are grafted with a bark graft instead of whip and tongue? Edit: maybe it's a cleft graft?
Hi Dustin, often nurseries do either whip and tongue and/or bud grafting. It depends on what time of year they want to do it. Bud grafting is in the summer and whip and tongue can only be done in the early spring as the tree emerges from dormancy. Both are great and you will end up with a beautiful grafted fruit tree!
Because they can do it fast and when taped, it's far less fragile when there are hundreds or hundreds of thousands trees butted up against each together as they're healing and growing. To have scions sticking out means risk of knocking them out of position in a commercial production context.
What type of wax it is used, is it honey comb wax
Hi Rajbir. Great question! Steph from Silver Creek Nurseries says that would have been a general grafting wax; back then Ken would use whatever was commercially available. Since then Steph's sister has been making it for us using local beeswax, rosin and linseed oil. There are recipes online. Steph says you want a consistency that is tacky and solid when cool, liquid when warm, but it shouldn't need to be too hot before it's melted or else you may burn the tree. In their recipe, rosin provides the sticky bit, and linseed oil and beeswax mix to get the melting point good.
How high above the roots should you make the union?
Hi Brett, he graft union should be 4-6" at least above the ground. More doesn't hurt, but if you go closer to the ground you risk the top variety rooting which will then bypass the dwarfing effect of the rootstock.
Brett, you can start it at knee high if you don't have deer issues. Just be sure to take off any sprouts from the rootstock, anything below the graft. Then, as you prune to determine the structure of the tree, it's knee, waist, shoulder (annually) to establish the main structure of where to prune each year for the first 4 years so that in the end, you don't need a ladder to harvest a productive tree.
👍👍👍👍👍
How tightly can you wrap the rubber band?
Good question! It needs to be tight enough to be secure. Once the roots and scion fuse together you will remove it so don’t worry about the rubber damaging the tree.
@@Orchardpeople I guess my question is, "can you tighten the rubber band too much" that it'll prevent a take? Or would a rubber band break before it could do that?
@@ericrosales9722 You want it strong enough so that if a bird lands on it, it won't come apart.
Do you ship bareroot fruit trees internationally to Barbados West Indies?
Hi Geriann, actually I don't sell fruit trees. I focus on fruit tree care education. Have you googled to see if there are any specialist fruit tree nurseries in Barbados? You can probably grow lots of wonderful fruits there.
@@Orchardpeople we could indeed being a tropical island but its so difficult to get exotic fruit trees in however ornamentals are easy to source & import.
why cant you plant the scion. why is a root stock needed and is the root stock a different apple tree? Why do this?
These are very good questions. Root stock is needed because it offers really wonderful qualities to the tree. Some root stocks will make a tree more dwarfing - so in maturity it will be a smaller tree and easier to harvest. Some root stocks offer other disease resistance. Even if it was easy to root the scion, you would lose out on all the benefits of the root stock options. Some root stocks are well adapted to clay soil and others are good for Sandy soil. There are lots of reasons why we graft fruit trees. Hope that helps! And thanks for asking!
I'm gonna try this in the spring. Thanks for getting back. Looking at M-111 Apple Rootstock - EMLA 111 if I can get it. I would like to try this on apple and sourwood trees. How do you find the right rootstock for the soil? Where can i research this?
There are lots of great resources online and it’s good to focus on a local one. Here’s the one I use! www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/crops/facts/00-007.htm. Good luck with it!
thanks Mr. cool stuff :)
I did watch the entire video. What a great red jacket and a nice wool sweater. Come on you guys-------you are making a video with a camera! duh! get in close to see what you have done so people can see IN DETAIL how you made the graft.
Apologies for technical difficulties!
always have a band close by ??????? health and safety wokey person???