Matt - you didn't mention the noise reduction advantages of triple glazing. Double glazed windows have an STC rating around 28, while some triple glazed windows can reach over STC 50 - nearly double. If you're next to a freeway, this benefit can be more important than the R value.
Was thinking exactly the same, in any urban setting close to a road or a pavement with chatty people walking by, triple glazing is the option that will save your serenity.
STC is logarithmic. Meaning that an STC 50 would reduce perceived sound by about 5 times that of an STC 28. 10db is a percieved doubling of volume. Realistically an STC rating of 36 is more than enough for most homes even next to a highway.
I'll admit, this is one of those videos where as soon as I saw the title I went straight to the kitchen and popped some popcorn. I know the comment section isn't going to disappoint. I'll get around to actually watching the video at some point...but priorities! ;)
I’m in Toronto, Canada and I had new triple glazed windows manufactured by a company called Panes. Absolutely amazing windows. They also block out a considerable amount of sound. I’ve noticed a huge improvement over my 1980’s slider windows in terms of comfort. For me it was only a 7% cost increase over double glazed. Triple is worth it!
@@zzzgarage2704 my house is a double brick 2 story 1957 build with zero insulation. And I’m not forced air I’m radiant heat. I would say i don’t really feel any drafts compared to before from the windows. But I do get drafts just because my house is not actually insulated so I do get heat loss that way.
@@zzzgarage2704 my advice is to have a window company come in and quote you for double pane then Ask about triple pane. In my case the cost difference was minimal that’s why I went with triple. Even did a triple pane patio door!
I'm 60 miles north of Toronto and meant to post this to your post rather than the general posting above. When I first got my triple paned windows, I noticed that in early mornings (it was fall), my windows seemed to fog up and I panicked thinking the seals had somehow all mysteriously failed. I called up my dealer and he laughed and said that this was because the new windows weren't transmitting heat from inside the house to the outside so they were cold and condensation from the warm moist air off our lake was condensing on the outside... so I went racing outside and sure enough he was right. It was all on the outside of the windows. Let the sun come up for more than 15 minutes and it evaporates off but it was a very clear illustration to me the benefits of a triple paned window over my old double glazed windows (I still have a few of those where I didn't care about switching them out). In the last few days, I've used an IR Temp gun to shoot my double and triple paned windows inside and out both during direct sun and on cloudy days and at night and the differences are astonishing. Right now, my (stone clad, 1" Styrofoam SM exterior cladded (on top of existing 3/8" chipboard on 2x6 with Roxol Wool insulation) wall has an internal temp of 71.5˚F/22˚C in direct sunlight on a 16˚F/-9˚C day. The thermostat is set for 22˚C (71.5˚F) so that makes some sense. The interior walls are anywhere from 72-75˚F. My triple glazed metal clad wood windows (Loewen) triple glazed windows are showing an internal (on the internal glass pane) temperature of 80˚F/27˚C while my Jeld-Wen Home Depot double glazed original windows are showing 65˚F/18˚C so I'm losing 7˚F/4˚C to those over the walls (while my UV coated, triple panes) are actually bringing in more heat than they are losing. If I go outside, the stone cladding is at 32˚F/0˚C in the shade but 65˚C/18˚C in direct sunlight. My triple panes are sitting at 47˚F/8˚C in the shade and 65˚/18˚C in the sun so not losing anything more than the walls in sun and about 15˚F/10˚C in the shade. I worried that this would be a problem at night or in warmer weather when I don't want the extra heat, but at night, the triple pane windows drop down to the same temperatures as the walls but the double panes go down into the low 50's. I've done the same experiment in the summer and found that the interior temp of those triple panes never seems to go much above 80-85 even in direct sun but the biggest difference is that you can sit in the sun on the hottest days comfortably while we would get chased away with the old windows by 10am or so. Not to mention that we had to replace all of our leather couches and flooring with the old windows after 7 years due to sun damage while the last set has been like new for the past 10 years with the new windows (the old ones were UV treated too). It's a no brainer to me. Pay the extra money. Your wallet will thank you.
2:33 "To translate between U-factor and R-factor, you have to divide by 1." What Matt meant to say is "Invert the U-factor to get the R-factor." Or, said another way, "Take 1 divided by the U-factor to translate the value to R-factor."
Hi Matt, I moved back into my old house over 40 years ago. Everywhere in those days was single glazed windows and usually wooden doors that had no insulation at all. I had just returned from six months in Norway and decided I wanted triple glazed windows, the whole double glazed thing had not started then and it was another five years before this started to become the norm. I had to go abroad to get my windows and my friends said I was crazy because of the cost. I now live in a home that takes almost nothing to heat and blocks all sound from outdoors (I also had insulation put in the cavity between the brick walls and also 3 inch sip panels on the outside to stop any ingress of air or rain). The rest of the world are now catching up and we are just starting to use triple glazed windows, I get great joy when the window installers come knocking at my door saying they are installing just around the corner so do I want to get in at the start to be able to tell them I already have it.
@@leob4403 Saint Gobain Planistar Sun Plus are a good answer these days pl.saint-gobain-building-glass.com/sites/saint-gobain-building-glass.com/files/documentPdf/SG_Planistar_Sun_Plus_EN_ONLINE.pdf
Matt, have you seen the European triple windows that both swing open and lean open at the top? They also have multiple latch points and dual weatherstrip.
@@owenchagnon6003 check out Mavrik tilt-turns. I just bought them for my home. uPVC tilt-turn frames reinforced with galv steel, comparable in price with decent US windows.
Yeah, he's been to a number of European trade shows and some home construction over there. He had a few series last year or earlier and he was very impressed.
I was really surprised to see the general quality of America windows when I started watching construction/building shows on RUclips years ago, and comparing them to general British and north western European windows. All our windows and doors have multiple security latches and anti jam features built in, and foam spacer's for the glass in double and triple glazed frames to reduce thermal conduction. American windows seem to be coming on and starting to have better features available but still seems to be lots of rubbish available.
Hi Matt, I have replaced all windows with triple plane. It did make difference in just standing next to them. But I did expect was how much quieter the house became from the outside noise. In turn talking and watching TV was easier to hear. Steve.
When I first got my triple paned windows, I noticed that in early mornings (it was fall), my windows seemed to fog up and I panicked thinking the seals had somehow all mysteriously failed. I called up my dealer and he laughed and said that this was because the new windows weren't transmitting heat from inside the house to the outside so they were cold and condensation from the warm moist air off our lake was condensing on the outside... so I went racing outside and sure enough he was right. It was all on the outside of the windows. Let the sun come up for more than 15 minutes and it evaporates off but it was a very clear illustration to me the benefits of a triple paned window over my old double glazed windows (I still have a few of those where I didn't care about switching them out). In the last few days, I've used an IR Temp gun to shoot my double and triple paned windows inside and out both during direct sun and on cloudy days and at night and the differences are astonishing. Right now, my (stone clad, 1" Styrofoam SM exterior cladded (on top of existing 3/8" chipboard on 2x6 with Roxol Wool insulation) wall has an internal temp of 71.5˚F/22˚C in direct sunlight on a 16˚F/-9˚C day. The thermostat is set for 22˚C (71.5˚F) so that makes some sense. The interior walls are anywhere from 72-75˚F. My triple glazed metal clad wood windows (Loewen) triple glazed windows are showing an internal (on the internal glass pane) temperature of 80˚F/27˚C while my Jeld-Wen Home Depot double glazed original windows are showing 65˚F/18˚C so I'm losing 7˚F/4˚C to those over the walls (while my UV coated, triple panes) are actually bringing in more heat than they are losing. If I go outside, the stone cladding is at 32˚F/0˚C in the shade but 65˚C/18˚C in direct sunlight. My triple panes are sitting at 47˚F/8˚C in the shade and 65˚/18˚C in the sun so not losing anything more than the walls in sun and about 15˚F/10˚C in the shade. I worried that this would be a problem at night or in warmer weather when I don't want the extra heat, but at night, the triple pane windows drop down to the same temperatures as the walls but the double panes go down into the low 50's. I've done the same experiment in the summer and found that the interior temp of those triple panes never seems to go much above 80-85 even in direct sun but the biggest difference is that you can sit in the sun on the hottest days comfortably while we would get chased away with the old windows by 10am or so. Not to mention that we had to replace all of our leather couches and flooring with the old windows after 7 years due to sun damage while the last set has been like new for the past 10 years with the new windows (the old ones were UV treated too). It's a no brainer to me. Pay the extra money. Your wallet will thank you.
Great write up. I’m glad your dealer gave you a good explanation AND you were able to fully understand and accept it. I have explained it like what is written below and people either could not understand or didn’t care and complained that their new costly windows had condensation every morning. Because we have higher performance glass, that outside glass, that used to get heated up by the heat in your home (and ultimately that heat lost to the exterior) will act just like a cold glass of water when the sun rises and warms the air just enough to hold moisture. The moist air hits this cold glass and you get condensation. There is no avoiding this and it’s worse with LoE2 or LoE3 plus Argon. I’ve seen the same windows with LoE2, but with no Argon, be the tipping point and have no condensation. The one window that had the Argon option, on the same wall, had the condensation. You can imagine some multimillion dollar mansions with their multimillion morning view out some really big expensive windows but they can’t see their view most cold morning because of this. This is why sometimes, especially in homes that can afford it, you can’t opt for the most energy efficient glass package, if you want the view.
@@RemmikRotus Yeah, I love my windows (they are Argon filled as well as LoE1, LoE2 & LoE3) but as you say, sometimes in the early AM (before sunrise), if I want to take a picture of the sunrise, I have to go out on the deck! After 15 minutes of sunlight though, the condensation has burnt off as the external panel heats up quickly with direct sunlight and they remain clear all day. I'm at almost 20 years on them now and they still are like new. Couldn't be happier with them.
Matt we just finished our house and just watching your videos helped me pull a negative blower door test lower than any other house my builder has built...1.1...4800sqft THANK YOU
I'm a subscriber, and contributor, and a devotee of Matt's tutorials...especially on framing and "smart layering" methods. As an electrical engineer and IT professional, I can't help but offer Matt a tip to "tube that house" for future IT changes. Don't staple Cat6 or anything else, to the studs, despite the obvious energy-saving temptation of using dimensionless space for wiring. Rather, tubes, all shaped to some hub location in the attic, will COST some compromise to energy-insulation perfection... but make that house adaptable over the next CENTURY or more of its existence. Matt's projects are so tight, that they are non-capable of being remodeled years later; that's the flip side of tight, complex, layered construction. This is no mud hut!!!!!!!! So the further Matt moves his designs away from the "mud hut," towards "passive perfection," the harder it is to REASONABLY attain future changes... To "future proof" that house, or even to merely make any future accommodations possible, the "tube" for low voltage is the key. IT is the fastest changing technology, of all; even more rapid than plumbing. So conduit is your friend, because it allows future replacement. Wiring standards change roughly every 20 years. Do I need to recite a litany of standards that are long gone, over merely the last 50 years? Even 30 years ago, RG-59 was the standard for coaxial television, only to be replaced by RG-6, and even RG-11. I remember when RG-59 was NEW, and commonly used to replace twin-lead (300 ohm) television antenna cable, so often stapled to studs (before 1970), before the LATH AND PLASTER went up.
I'm literally about to pour our foundation for our "forever home" and am doing the low voltage wiring myself. I'm using some of the methods you are talking about, conduit to TVs/Projector, all back to a central wiring closet. So you actually recommend conduit to EVERY cat6 drop?
Generally agree. I built my own recording studios and everything is in a pipe or trough with a pull wire. I'm building a new house and will be running some strategic conduit runs. But whatever I do, I know I'm going to miss the mark in some way. I can see with so many things going wireless that I might end up not needing the conduit, and should have done something different to better accommodate RF, or direct brainwave connections, or carrier pigeon, or...
Very informative, thanks Matt. Your "windows are closed 99% of the time". Such a contrast to my house in NY's Hudson Valley. Our windows are open every night from mid-May thru September, and all day as well except on the hot days of July and August. No A.C. except a couple of small window units for avg 8 days per summer.
I recently went from a Marvin Double hung to an Alpen European R9 window. Man, the difference in comfort is substantial. House just feels stable in the high heat and humidity.
Good breakdown. Low “E” has made a huge difference to my antique furniture, stopped fading and darkening as well as damaging UV. Lifetime warranty is Important, I’ve replaced 2 over 20 years, one, the vinyl window separated and the other fogged between the glass.
Each dead air space and each "interface" between air and glass adds to the "difficulty to transfer heat" So the triple WILL be better for insulation (if the glass types are equal) And this is why a storm window or even the old plastic film kits we double stick taped to the wall over the window helps. It creates another dead air space and another set of glass (plastic membrane) interfaces..
Sounds like you have found the Alside Preservaion or Ultramax windows with a U value of .9 and a SHG >1 with 2 soft coat low E coatings.... That is what I spent 7 years selling :). The labor to install is exactly the same so upgrading is very small cost difference!
Sounds good. But you do have to always keep in mind that windows with special gasses will lose their R-value over time due to the gasses leaking/permeating.
We took up my local airport's offer to do sound abatement and insulation on our home in '05. We have double double glazed windows in most places (yeah, four panes of glass in a vinyl frame!)
Why is the solar heat gain coefficient on the triple glaze not as good? Seems like it should at least be able to match the double glaze. A line I really like 5:10 "I was concerned about overall budget, it's my families house". Spoken like a contractor. :)
Because the triple pane absorbs more heat on the inside and room-side layers, which is then carried into the interior of the house. Although the solar energy has been absorbed, something still has to happen to it, and solar heat gain coefficient takes into account the energy which was absorbed as well as the energy that was reflected.
@@youstubers5722 it's because there is less space for the gas filled cavity. Triple glaze takes up space where gas should be. Triple glaze is not for better insulation but for sound deadening
We replaced the windows in our house in two phases. For the second set we did the manufacturer had a deal on triple pain. We don't really notice the difference in the common areas, but in the bedrooms you can feel the cold coming off the windows. We live in Wisconsin. I wish we had gone with triple pane in the bedrooms and at least where the windows were close to furniture.
Check out Alpen windows. They use layers of low E coated plastic film suspended between the glass to achieve really good U factor. It's essentially quadruple glazed, but with plastic for the inner panes instead of more glass.
@@mattv5281 Only problem with those is high cost and much shorter life expectancy. Heat Mirror/Southwall Technologies/MIT was the pioneer of this concept back in the late 70's, came to market in 1983. Pay quadruple the price of double pane and last less than half as long. Lose - Lose proposition. Horrible product in any climate with large high/low temp swings. My house in Idaho had them, complete failure on all east and southern exposures in less than 5 years. West side failed in 6th year, north side never failed by the time I moved away.
@@youstubers5722 Problem with anecdotal evidence is that there is some evidence for virtually every possibility. I did a complete rebuild of a set of slope glass roofs (about 1200 sq ft total, and all single pane) that failed miserably and leaked torrents for years. Along the Front Range in Denver area, sun is pretty bad. We researched the new glazing extensively, and did Heat Mirror (factory close at hand). Top glass was tempered, then the Heat Mirror film, then the inner glass was laminated, per code. That was because of weight of each pane was about 400#, and getting hit with that load of tempered crumbs is still dangerous. Height over the floor may have been a factor in that as well; it has been awhile. I seem to recall we used 66% transmission. There are/ were a number of available transmission levels based on the thickness of the metal spray on the Mylar film; at 44%, the view is pretty hazy, like looking through Vaseline film on a sheet of glass. Completed in 2001, no problems reported up until the home changed hands a few years ago. Since then, I am not sure, but somehow, big problems always seem to find me, so I suspect that everything is still okay. Reality is that one has to be nuts to do this kind of slope glazing, especially in Colorado, but covering it with a solid roof would have turned the best part of this huge house into a dungeon. Note: The original designer died of complications from Alzheimers a few years after the original job was finished (!).
I used triple in my home and I’m in California where I don’t really need them. In my bedroom I used triple with a tint in the middle to keep the sun out and that helps keep the hot and cold out. I didn’t find triple that much more than double. But when I added the I think it was a Milar tint.
Loved the idea to mix and match to meet your thermal goals! How about an episode on Kitchen appliances? Low versus high cost and the long term benefits there like windows?
It's worth mentioning how much more "soundproofing" you can achieve with a good triple glazed window package Vs double. The sound alone, especially if you're out in the city, is absolutely worth its weight in gold! But even out in the middle of nowhere, like my home, it's incredible what you can hear even without traffic. Before we built the house we're in now, we lived on another farm. All double glazed windows, and though not built as well as the current, it was very over built for that time. There was always what seemed like a crew of crickets fiddling away, bullfrogs croaking, coyotes, and cattle right next to the bedroom windows. I enjoy these sounds, just not so loud that you can't tell if the window is closed 100% or not. (I am slightly exaggerating) but seriously, the difference in noise levels is incredible. Our new home is so much more quiet and comfortable, and while I imagine the technology in material like rockwool, green glue, and building super air tight, etc. etc. help a ton, I know the difference of sound coming through the windows. Just from building different homes with different quality windows. Small hail on triple glazing sounds like rain during a thunderstorm on double. The average thunderstorms on triple glaze is a mere misting sound. Sometimes we'll get a toad stomper, and won't know until we see it or we really get thunder comin in. I am not by any means a "salesman." As a BUILDER....When you are having a super efficient home built, and you're talking a drop in the bucket on your overall price of the build, I've never seen it make more sense to go double than triple. "Buy once, cry once." If that means upgrading to that super fancy lighting, hardware, countertops, etc... And spending it on the quality of the structure, and comfort of the home... you do that. It is much easier, much more cost efficient, and just makes more sense than tearing into the cladding and envelope down the road to upgrade. If you can swing it, go triple. Don't skimp on the windows, structure, insulation, or heating and cooling. Facades and interior options are much easier and more likely to be updated anyway. Just my humble opinion. Hopefully it will help someone out. Take care!
Most houses aren't kept forever by the original owner. A fool is born every minute, who will pay top dollar for location while being oblivious to building quality. The age of the discriminating buyer is long, long gone, except in egregious and obvious situations. The oblliviousness to efficiency is, moreover, MASSIVE, by renters.
All things being equal, triple-panes are barely quieter than doubles. If you don't believe me, check out sound transmission data from the manufacturers. If you really want noise control, order glazing designed for that purpose (for example, panes with different thicknesses to deaden a broader range of frequencies).
@@PaxsonWoelber The video is correct. Tripple gives a lot when we talk comfort and sound. More than data says. And do non opening if you can, you save a lot of money.
@@PaxsonWoelber Yes. What you said. I should add that upgrading one pane (of two or three) to a greater thickness for the sake of sound is relatively common option in the higher performance window lines of reputable window manufactures. Finding a salesperson who gives you that option because they know what it is might be a little less common.
Clarification of R-factor/U-factor conversion as I was confused. R-factor == 1 / U-factor. Example from video: 1 / U-factor of 0.29 == R-factor of 3.45
I used to live in an apartment where all the windows were shutter style, and there was always at least an 1/8 inch gap between the slots. The only way to prevent air from blowing in was to apply clear film over the windows. The apartment had no AC or heater so it was extremely energy efficient. I would call it "aggressive house".
Where was this, geographically? In Torrance CA, it wouldn't matter, because it's so temperate all year around. I live in Long Beach, where we have much bigger temperature swings.
South Bay has that marine layer that always keeps things cool. I install windows in the South Bay and most contractors in hermosa and Manhattan will go with double glazed windows
I live by a highway have not measured the sound decibels but of course im considering how much to invest, seems to me triple pain will eliminate noise...as opposed to double pane.
I have double hung windows and they do a pretty great job at sealing out the elements. I can see that awning and casement windows would do a better job because of the full seal it creates. Very informative. Thanks Matt! I hope you do more window design videos.
A canadian builder I talked to who is very into energy efficiency says double glazed windows are better for south facing windows if you want winter solar gain. The third pain reduces the transparancy and loses more heat input than it saves
(I wanted to edit this and change it up a bit but I don't have the time. The main focus is still valid though and I'd be very interested in seeing an ultimate showdown of two houses like I mentioned below. I think it would be beyond interesting and very informative!) I see you focusing 100% on energy efficiency/performance in virtually all of your videos (at least the ones I've watched, not counting this one). You're constantly talking about alternative construction methods and alternative products that can have an AMAZING difference in efficiency. But you don't seem to ever mention price to performance ratio. What I essentially mean is how much you are going to save in utility bills compared to how much MORE you'll be spending on these amazing products. For example; a traditional house that is constructed with regular studs, regular OSB sheets, typical insulation, a non conditioned attic, typical central air system with duct systems that aren't engineered.... Just your basic everything. How much will the heating and cooling bills be monthly? And then you have your ultimate efficiency house; tstuds, those zip OSB sheets, best insulation, conditioned attic space, great windows, engineered and completely sealed duct work, very efficient system (maybe even a geothermal system) ... I'm talking EVERYTHING done with the absolute most efficient materials and in the most efficient way. Now how much will the heating and cooling bills cost for this home? After comparing the heating and cooling bills, then you compare up front costs... How much MORE did it cost to build the ultimate efficient home? Take these numbers and figure out how many years, or decades even, it will take before the cost was worth it. What I'm getting at is that there MUST be a GOOD balance somewhere. Some products might cost so much that even though they are far superior, the price to performance ratio is just too high. I have a great interest in increasing the energy efficiency of my home but I am not rich or even wealthy. So the cost MUST be worth it. Finding that perfect balance is crucial for me and for most people. Not everybody can afford to just dump a ton of money into their home (be it a new home, or a remodel) if it'll be decades before the savings are worth it. Gotta hit that sweet spot. And I'd love to see you do a video on that idea specifically if you haven't already.
Highly unlikely video. Matt needs the revenue stream of wishful thinkers; clicks are everything. Super expensive, super-performance is a much better video sell than plain ole, plain ole. I build for some pretty well-heeld clientele, and I could not see advocating the full range of what we do for them, for the general population. It is just not realistic. Presumably, you have followed the Matt / Meet Kevin interactions? Kevin is a bit of a dick, in my view, but essentially correct in that money and ROI is a part of anything one does, like it or not. Matt lives in a world of skewed values, rich clients and donated and subsidized materials for himself. My own experienced but unverifiable opinion is that very little one does to a home has a genuine payback: costs are too high for quality anything, and our energy costs are still relatively low. I started out in 1971, as a design build type. For a long time, my jobs (additions and renovations) were justified by the homeowners on the basis of the big payback (increased value) when they went to sell. The first big downturn put the lie to that. The reality is that most of those jobs saw an increase in value due to inflation and demand. The owners would have had a better return on their investment if they had done nothing at all (except basic maintenance). Final thought: Matt is a builder who employs the principles of building science. That is NOT the same as being a building scientist, and certainly not a building science economist. And, Matt will not respond to you, as mixing it up online gets contentious and negative (usually very quickly), and that is bad for the brand.
You might also want an exterior overhang design where your south facing windows are in shade in the summer, but get direct sun to the interior in winter.
I replaced the windows in my Texas 1950 house in two stages. I started with triple pane. And finished with double pane disappointed that I had put triples in. The whole issue was the amount of light I get. I have large windows and have to turn lights on in the middle of the day. Daylight is key to health and happiness. At least in the south, I would think twice before pitting in tripe glazed windows.
Matt, just small note. Divided by 1 will give you a very different answer that 1 divided by, which is what you did. Yeah, math nerd, here. Keep up with the great videos!!! :o)
Matt, My house is constructed using brick over block with all windows triple-glazed. I live within 1 block of two 4-lane high traffic roads. No traffic noise audible inside. Fire truck and emergency rescue horns and sirens are audible. I don't know if your windows are sound rated, but as I live in the city, this is an important feature of triple-glazed windows.
Most places in the southern states do not regularly stock triple glaze. That increases the cost difference to go to triple because custom always ups the cost.
I installed all casement and awning windows on my DC row house. I went with Marvin Infinity. During my planning process, they became available in black. I used that and love the look. I love how high quality they are. If I could do it again then I would have installed all triple glazed and half inoperable. People who have slider windows should switch to awning. Awning generally looks nice and works in those window openings that are long and skinny.
Growing up, my neighbor's house had fake double-glaze windows. What they did was butt-up a single-glaze window behind a single-glaze window. Both windows were sliding-windows, but it did a very good job at lowering his power bill during the winter.
I live in the north , cold sessions like 8 months or so. If i invest in 3 glasses, I calculate that return on/of investment is about 40 years. In my case shifting existing windows. I had a salesman knocking on my door, we did the maths. The current widows have about 3U and the new he had to offer 0.7 , the window area ~20 (small house) savings are approximately 4MW per year. It sounds much and it is. But compare to the costs of the new windows and labour, it's all about comfort.
The correct way to say it would be that R factor the inverse of the U number. There's also a 1/x button on the iphone if you rotate it which makes life easier when youre shooting through conversions
Appreciate the differences in windows & how you explained the values & info in this video; & think it’s “simple” enough for non builders (trades ppl) to understand about Windows. My Sister & her husband are in the stages of building their first house here in sunny, hot humid FL (ugh🤦🏼♂️), & think sharing this vid with them would be a great opportunity for them to understand Windows; so when it comes time for them to choose which options to go with, they’ll be more informed (funny how family has a hard time “learning” from family, right😉. Another reason why I’m the gonna be the builder for them; but will happily help them anyway I can & answer their questions). Cheers Matt & Build Crew✌🏼
On a new build putting forethought into overhangs and awnings on the sunny sides would negate the solar gain in southern climes and far more effective than additional layers of glass.
This is why I really dislike modern "tiny" lots with buildings that go all the way to the edge that have absolutely no overhangs. Energy sucking monsters.
I thought using a lot of fixed windows was a really good idea. In our mid 70's house opening windows in the evening is an important way we cool the house cheaply. But assuming modern insulation, ERVs and perhaps ventilation that can quickly fill the house with low temperature evening air there doesn't seem to be much reason to open windows for cooling or ventilation. And in an area where pollen and humidity are issue there are some strong reasons not to open windows.
E-coating or heat control films dramatically improve room summer heat gain or winter 'cold gain'. I have been going through my current house adding Gila Heat Control Platinum and it helps both South and North windows for heat gain or heat loss.
I have them and they don't block out noise at all. The sun still beats in them in the afternoon and it's still hot lol the black screens on the outside drop it about 8 dagrees... But they are really not worth spending the money
In AZ, dead of summer, its 120+ outside, im probably gonna have the units cranked down to 60 degrees. That's a 60 degre delta, people don't insulate houses down here like the do in the north and they really should.
He did mean to take the inverse (ex: 1/0.29). The "U factor" represents thermal conductance, while the "R factor" represents thermal resistance. These two are direct inverses of eachother.
I did not hear you talk about one of our most important reasons for using triple pane at least in Iowa . In a tight sealed house the humidity will increase and freeze on a double pane in winter .And the other number I think helpful is what is the temperature of the inside surface of the window at say 10 degrees F outside temperature. And compare that to triple vs double. In our situation the triple raised the surface temp above the inside dew point and stopped the condensation.41 degrees with double and 51 degrees with triple inside with outdoor temp of 10 degrees F.
I’m in the gwn n want to share my findings with windows. They will b the coldest area of any room during the cold spells. So that’s why you need to understand what ur doing as wintertime comfort is golden up here. Temp gets to -30 plus any wind and heat inside 70-75 that’s a hundred degree swing. The only time I can tolerate lower inside temp is with a boiler heating cause it’ operates differently with more even heat. Your vids really aren’t adequate for us up here but great ideas n I mean the reality aspect. The in floor heat concept is great but don’t forget u will need a/c too n it’s different system. Currently it seems this aspect of the build can b a large number in ur cost but well spent for here. Efficiency is really where focus is needed.
Triple glazed is good in a northern location where the interior glass temp in double glazed will be cold enough to cause condensation. The colder your exterior temp the more likely that your homes interior humidity will cause condensation. If your in those regions you should bump up.
The space between pains is different between manufacturers. 1/4" up to 1". Thickness of glass. Gas filled. High end windows are often better designed to handle the additional weight a third pane of glass. Sound proofing increases as well. $ goes up with quality. Your house is coming along. Looks great!
In the UK we need a good solar gain. That is we want the maximum amount of solar energy to come into our houses. "Pilkington K" glass has a coating which allows solar energy to come into the house but tends to reflect infra-red internal energy back into the room. Great for large south facing windows in the winter.
Matt, still waiting on the invite to tint your office windows. 😁. I’ve been tinting since the late 90’s. You cannot tint triple glaze windows safely. Double pane, your tint must have a heat absorption less than 50% otherwise it could trap heat between panes and break the seals or glass if they are annealed glass.
@@trevorrisley5419 I’m not sure why you would need that on a home with triple glazed windows. Attachment systems for that on homes don’t have the best looking options. You might be able to do it in clear film if you really wanted to.
I saw the specs for triple pane picture windows made here in Manitoba, Canada and they are apparently more efficient than 2x4 walls and almost as efficient as 2x6. Worth the money up here.
Triple glazing reduces visible light transmittance by about 25%, so if you buy windows for light, then design for 25% larger windows. That should just about negate any energy savings, while adding 25% to the cost, plus another 20% upcharge for triple glazing. It's true that no window lets in light after dark so triple glazing is great at night, and in the north that's 15 hours/day during winter. I'm not yet sold on triple glazing (as you might surmise). For now, I am getting the best LowE coatings, argon/krypton gas, and the best glass spacers for a U value of 0.24. Windows are only about 15% of floorspace and probably less than 5% of the insulated envelope, so I don't get too panicky about needing triple glazing in my area.
@@christianvanderstap6257 How is West more "sun side" than East? It is not so in terms of Earth/Sun relationship, so some other factor must be in play.
Do double-glazed windows generally have a better solar heat gain coefficient than triple-glazed? Or is more a function of the type of coating that is specified on the given window?
How long until these windows fog up? I have six brands of windows on my house due to various remodels. The Marvin’s from 1992 have all fogged and the low-E coating is destroyed. The Kolbe & Kolbe tilt-pac windows from 2000 are all in great shape! They are still supporting these and a pair of new jamb liners with balances is on the way. No fogging. The Andersen 200 series double hung windows from 2003 are all good. I’m pricing some Andersen double hung insert windows right now for the living room. They will replace the original 1948 casements that smash people’s heads when they walk up the front stairs. 😂 A Viking (Home Depot) window in the bathroom has fogged up on one side. The others are vinyl in the garage and basement and too new to evaluate.
Excellent video. I bet a lot will view this video since it's exactly about this most important factor double versus triple glass. Great to see Jeldwin offer's it too
Back in 2002 I replaced the original Anderson single glazed windows in my 1950's home with Schuco triple glaze. I live on a very busy street and was mainly interested in the sound proofing qualities. Never regretted my choice.
I too live in a busy street with a 1940 original wood windows, I have external windows and even put 1/4 inch plexiglass and still the sound of the trucks I can’t kill. Should I get triple pane or should I insulate first my walls
Just one thing you have to keep in mind is Visible transmittance. there is a bit of a hit when you go to triple. if you are in a shaded area to begin within, I had to opt not to use them. I need all the natural light I can get. Unfortunately there seems to be a bottle neck in glass technology now.
@@FreezeinHellBatman Honestly passive house standard windows are not really necessary in most of the US, especially Texas where Matt is. For colder climates I think its a must tho.
Great information, good idea to only use the higher priced tripple on the sides that need it most. However I have worked out that building well draught sealed shutters with poly carb inserts will add a better thermal barrier for less cost, and a shutter made from rigid foam core insulation to act as night time curtains will really keep the cold out and the heat in
@@psu8782 I was planning to build them myself. They would be side hinged and stay open or closed with magnet catches. To make the winter polycarb part you just cut a sheet larger than the glass, so it goes onto the frame, and stick magnetic strip on both frame and the polycarb, this forms a natural draught proof barrier. you can paint the strips on the frame so they look nicer when the polycarb is not there. Well, I am not as wealthy as these house builders, I would rather spend the extra cost that tripple glazing costs on other insulating methods such as the roof or walls, because thats the majority of the building
For the most part I agree. Something else to look at is REDUCE the number of windows. Lots of architects like to put windows in every wall in the house and they love these floor to ceiling windows. Now if you live in that house it's a nightmare. Bedrooms will have a door on two of its walls and floor to ceiling windows on the other two. Now where do you put your furniture? If our house had been sided instead of brick (I hate brick since it makes it hard to remodel and it absorbs heat and moisture) I would have removed several windows in our 1960 house. My favorite windows are the euro style casements with the built in exterior screen. Great for stopping storm damage and they block out 100% of the light and some sound when closed. When we go to Greece I want to stop at the hardware store right by the airport, pick some up and haul them home.
I agree you can have too many windows. I also think that the squarer a window is the more efficient it should be. The U value for the frame always seems to be worse than the glass, so a square window would minimise frame size relative to the area (unless you want round windows...)
I agree with triple glazed using on our north windows (I'm in a Toronto suburb). However, the cost of replacing them (Jeldwen) has been quote for much more than 15%
If you ever build a house in Oklahoma, I would LOVE to see how tight I could get your home Mr. Risinger. My companies name is Bo’s insulation out of Oklahoma City and we’re very passionate about moving the building industry forward through better materials and quality craftsmanship.
Matt, your solar heat gain is dependent upon the Low E coating. You should always go soft coat Low E vs Builder Priletic Hard Coat. Also some windows can be ordered with multiple Low e coatings virtually eliminating the heat gain!
Any value divided by one is that value. I believe you should have said divide the U factor INTO one, i.e. 1/.18. How about a discussion about Passive House vs. Net Zero?
We blew by Net zero a few years ago with a model that created 159% of it's own energy, certified by an accountant in Iowa. Same cost as stick construction too. The model going up next month should create 200% of it's own energy. www.energypositivehomes.us let me know if you want more info Scott
You forgot to mention sound transmission. Three panes work together to dramatically reduce incoming noise, more than one might expect just by adding a third layer of glass. This can be seen in graphs of window sound transmission. One pane does very little; a second helps somewhat, while a third pane dramatically improves attenuation, even at lower frequencies.
We installed JW double hung clad windows and patio doors on a 12 year old remodel. Very happy with the performance and appearance, the screens not so much.
Matt - you didn't mention the noise reduction advantages of triple glazing. Double glazed windows have an STC rating around 28, while some triple glazed windows can reach over STC 50 - nearly double. If you're next to a freeway, this benefit can be more important than the R value.
Yes! I just went and deleted my comment about this. :)
Was thinking exactly the same, in any urban setting close to a road or a pavement with chatty people walking by, triple glazing is the option that will save your serenity.
STC is logarithmic. Meaning that an STC 50 would reduce perceived sound by about 5 times that of an STC 28. 10db is a percieved doubling of volume. Realistically an STC rating of 36 is more than enough for most homes even next to a highway.
Great input Ken! It would be better at blocking the neighbors barking dog👍🏻
@@patrickhoover4797 Couple that with an ICF home and you'll won't hear anything outside noise inside your home.
I'll admit, this is one of those videos where as soon as I saw the title I went straight to the kitchen and popped some popcorn. I know the comment section isn't going to disappoint. I'll get around to actually watching the video at some point...but priorities! ;)
i'M WITH YA
I thought you were going to open kitchen window to check for energy start sticker
I’m in Toronto, Canada and I had new triple glazed windows manufactured by a company called Panes.
Absolutely amazing windows. They also block out a considerable amount of sound. I’ve noticed a huge improvement over my 1980’s slider windows in terms of comfort. For me it was only a 7% cost increase over double glazed.
Triple is worth it!
How about keeping the heat? I'm from Ottawa and really thinking about upgrading
@@zzzgarage2704 my house is a double brick 2 story 1957 build with zero insulation. And I’m not forced air I’m radiant heat. I would say i don’t really feel any drafts compared to before from the windows. But I do get drafts just because my house is not actually insulated so I do get heat loss that way.
@@drivenserb My house was built in the 80s and the original single pane windows are making my bedroom 1-3 ℃ lower than the other rooms in the house
@@zzzgarage2704 my advice is to have a window company come in and quote you for double pane then Ask about triple pane. In my case the cost difference was minimal that’s why I went with triple. Even did a triple pane patio door!
I'm 60 miles north of Toronto and meant to post this to your post rather than the general posting above. When I first got my triple paned windows, I noticed that in early mornings (it was fall), my windows seemed to fog up and I panicked thinking the seals had somehow all mysteriously failed. I called up my dealer and he laughed and said that this was because the new windows weren't transmitting heat from inside the house to the outside so they were cold and condensation from the warm moist air off our lake was condensing on the outside... so I went racing outside and sure enough he was right. It was all on the outside of the windows. Let the sun come up for more than 15 minutes and it evaporates off but it was a very clear illustration to me the benefits of a triple paned window over my old double glazed windows (I still have a few of those where I didn't care about switching them out).
In the last few days, I've used an IR Temp gun to shoot my double and triple paned windows inside and out both during direct sun and on cloudy days and at night and the differences are astonishing. Right now, my (stone clad, 1" Styrofoam SM exterior cladded (on top of existing 3/8" chipboard on 2x6 with Roxol Wool insulation) wall has an internal temp of 71.5˚F/22˚C in direct sunlight on a 16˚F/-9˚C day. The thermostat is set for 22˚C (71.5˚F) so that makes some sense. The interior walls are anywhere from 72-75˚F. My triple glazed metal clad wood windows (Loewen) triple glazed windows are showing an internal (on the internal glass pane) temperature of 80˚F/27˚C while my Jeld-Wen Home Depot double glazed original windows are showing 65˚F/18˚C so I'm losing 7˚F/4˚C to those over the walls (while my UV coated, triple panes) are actually bringing in more heat than they are losing. If I go outside, the stone cladding is at 32˚F/0˚C in the shade but 65˚C/18˚C in direct sunlight. My triple panes are sitting at 47˚F/8˚C in the shade and 65˚/18˚C in the sun so not losing anything more than the walls in sun and about 15˚F/10˚C in the shade. I worried that this would be a problem at night or in warmer weather when I don't want the extra heat, but at night, the triple pane windows drop down to the same temperatures as the walls but the double panes go down into the low 50's. I've done the same experiment in the summer and found that the interior temp of those triple panes never seems to go much above 80-85 even in direct sun but the biggest difference is that you can sit in the sun on the hottest days comfortably while we would get chased away with the old windows by 10am or so. Not to mention that we had to replace all of our leather couches and flooring with the old windows after 7 years due to sun damage while the last set has been like new for the past 10 years with the new windows (the old ones were UV treated too). It's a no brainer to me. Pay the extra money. Your wallet will thank you.
2:33 "To translate between U-factor and R-factor, you have to divide by 1." What Matt meant to say is "Invert the U-factor to get the R-factor." Or, said another way, "Take 1 divided by the U-factor to translate the value to R-factor."
"divide into 1" would be the correct language. Yours is clearer, tho
@@rodschmidt8952right because dividing by 1 gets you the same number, so that phrasing may throw people off.
2:33 I know what you mean, but you have to devide 1 by R,U. Deviding by 1 wont do much.
Thank you!
What do you mean? I think he meant this:
U = 1/R ---> U is w/m2K
R = 1/U ---> R is m2K/w
(using metrics here)
It's spelled D I V I D E
@@juliancate7089 Gosh, who knew
@@juliancate7089 Thanks, I'll try to remember.
Hi Matt, I moved back into my old house over 40 years ago. Everywhere in those days was single glazed windows and usually wooden doors that had no insulation at all. I had just returned from six months in Norway and decided I wanted triple glazed windows, the whole double glazed thing had not started then and it was another five years before this started to become the norm. I had to go abroad to get my windows and my friends said I was crazy because of the cost. I now live in a home that takes almost nothing to heat and blocks all sound from outdoors (I also had insulation put in the cavity between the brick walls and also 3 inch sip panels on the outside to stop any ingress of air or rain). The rest of the world are now catching up and we are just starting to use triple glazed windows, I get great joy when the window installers come knocking at my door saying they are installing just around the corner so do I want to get in at the start to be able to tell them I already have it.
Where is this, geographically?
Ofcourse they call you crazy. Lynch the thinker, hail the sheep parade
Heat is honestly a bigger problem than cold these days
@@leob4403 Saint Gobain Planistar Sun Plus are a good answer these days pl.saint-gobain-building-glass.com/sites/saint-gobain-building-glass.com/files/documentPdf/SG_Planistar_Sun_Plus_EN_ONLINE.pdf
@@johnbecich9540 Next to his neighbor's place, obviously! 😜
Matt, have you seen the European triple windows that both swing open and lean open at the top? They also have multiple latch points and dual weatherstrip.
tilt turn windows, he has in a few videos in the past, can get very expensive
And how about those rolladens!
@@owenchagnon6003 check out Mavrik tilt-turns. I just bought them for my home. uPVC tilt-turn frames reinforced with galv steel, comparable in price with decent US windows.
Yeah, he's been to a number of European trade shows and some home construction over there. He had a few series last year or earlier and he was very impressed.
I was really surprised to see the general quality of America windows when I started watching construction/building shows on RUclips years ago, and comparing them to general British and north western European windows. All our windows and doors have multiple security latches and anti jam features built in, and foam spacer's for the glass in double and triple glazed frames to reduce thermal conduction. American windows seem to be coming on and starting to have better features available but still seems to be lots of rubbish available.
Hi Matt, I have replaced all windows with triple plane. It did make difference in just standing next to them. But I did expect was how much quieter the house became from the outside noise. In turn talking and watching TV was easier to hear. Steve.
you might have noticed a difference just renewing the old double glazd panels because they lose efficiency over time
When I first got my triple paned windows, I noticed that in early mornings (it was fall), my windows seemed to fog up and I panicked thinking the seals had somehow all mysteriously failed. I called up my dealer and he laughed and said that this was because the new windows weren't transmitting heat from inside the house to the outside so they were cold and condensation from the warm moist air off our lake was condensing on the outside... so I went racing outside and sure enough he was right. It was all on the outside of the windows. Let the sun come up for more than 15 minutes and it evaporates off but it was a very clear illustration to me the benefits of a triple paned window over my old double glazed windows (I still have a few of those where I didn't care about switching them out).
In the last few days, I've used an IR Temp gun to shoot my double and triple paned windows inside and out both during direct sun and on cloudy days and at night and the differences are astonishing. Right now, my (stone clad, 1" Styrofoam SM exterior cladded (on top of existing 3/8" chipboard on 2x6 with Roxol Wool insulation) wall has an internal temp of 71.5˚F/22˚C in direct sunlight on a 16˚F/-9˚C day. The thermostat is set for 22˚C (71.5˚F) so that makes some sense. The interior walls are anywhere from 72-75˚F. My triple glazed metal clad wood windows (Loewen) triple glazed windows are showing an internal (on the internal glass pane) temperature of 80˚F/27˚C while my Jeld-Wen Home Depot double glazed original windows are showing 65˚F/18˚C so I'm losing 7˚F/4˚C to those over the walls (while my UV coated, triple panes) are actually bringing in more heat than they are losing. If I go outside, the stone cladding is at 32˚F/0˚C in the shade but 65˚C/18˚C in direct sunlight. My triple panes are sitting at 47˚F/8˚C in the shade and 65˚/18˚C in the sun so not losing anything more than the walls in sun and about 15˚F/10˚C in the shade. I worried that this would be a problem at night or in warmer weather when I don't want the extra heat, but at night, the triple pane windows drop down to the same temperatures as the walls but the double panes go down into the low 50's. I've done the same experiment in the summer and found that the interior temp of those triple panes never seems to go much above 80-85 even in direct sun but the biggest difference is that you can sit in the sun on the hottest days comfortably while we would get chased away with the old windows by 10am or so. Not to mention that we had to replace all of our leather couches and flooring with the old windows after 7 years due to sun damage while the last set has been like new for the past 10 years with the new windows (the old ones were UV treated too). It's a no brainer to me. Pay the extra money. Your wallet will thank you.
Great write up. I’m glad your dealer gave you a good explanation AND you were able to fully understand and accept it. I have explained it like what is written below and people either could not understand or didn’t care and complained that their new costly windows had condensation every morning.
Because we have higher performance glass, that outside glass, that used to get heated up by the heat in your home (and ultimately that heat lost to the exterior) will act just like a cold glass of water when the sun rises and warms the air just enough to hold moisture. The moist air hits this cold glass and you get condensation. There is no avoiding this and it’s worse with LoE2 or LoE3 plus Argon. I’ve seen the same windows with LoE2, but with no Argon, be the tipping point and have no condensation. The one window that had the Argon option, on the same wall, had the condensation.
You can imagine some multimillion dollar mansions with their multimillion morning view out some really big expensive windows but they can’t see their view most cold morning because of this. This is why sometimes, especially in homes that can afford it, you can’t opt for the most energy efficient glass package, if you want the view.
@@RemmikRotus Yeah, I love my windows (they are Argon filled as well as LoE1, LoE2 & LoE3) but as you say, sometimes in the early AM (before sunrise), if I want to take a picture of the sunrise, I have to go out on the deck! After 15 minutes of sunlight though, the condensation has burnt off as the external panel heats up quickly with direct sunlight and they remain clear all day. I'm at almost 20 years on them now and they still are like new. Couldn't be happier with them.
Wow thanks for commenting
Matt we just finished our house and just watching your videos helped me pull a negative blower door test lower than any other house my builder has built...1.1...4800sqft THANK YOU
I'm a subscriber, and contributor, and a devotee of Matt's tutorials...especially on framing and "smart layering" methods. As an electrical engineer and IT professional, I can't help but offer Matt a tip to "tube that house" for future IT changes. Don't staple Cat6 or anything else, to the studs, despite the obvious energy-saving temptation of using dimensionless space for wiring. Rather, tubes, all shaped to some hub location in the attic, will COST some compromise to energy-insulation perfection... but make that house adaptable over the next CENTURY or more of its existence. Matt's projects are so tight, that they are non-capable of being remodeled years later; that's the flip side of tight, complex, layered construction. This is no mud hut!!!!!!!!
So the further Matt moves his designs away from the "mud hut," towards "passive perfection," the harder it is to REASONABLY attain future changes... To "future proof" that house, or even to merely make any future accommodations possible, the "tube" for low voltage is the key. IT is the fastest changing technology, of all; even more rapid than plumbing. So conduit is your friend, because it allows future replacement. Wiring standards change roughly every 20 years.
Do I need to recite a litany of standards that are long gone, over merely the last 50 years? Even 30 years ago, RG-59 was the standard for coaxial television, only to be replaced by RG-6, and even RG-11. I remember when RG-59 was NEW, and commonly used to replace twin-lead (300 ohm) television antenna cable, so often stapled to studs (before 1970), before the LATH AND PLASTER went up.
I'm literally about to pour our foundation for our "forever home" and am doing the low voltage wiring myself. I'm using some of the methods you are talking about, conduit to TVs/Projector, all back to a central wiring closet. So you actually recommend conduit to EVERY cat6 drop?
Generally agree. I built my own recording studios and everything is in a pipe or trough with a pull wire. I'm building a new house and will be running some strategic conduit runs. But whatever I do, I know I'm going to miss the mark in some way. I can see with so many things going wireless that I might end up not needing the conduit, and should have done something different to better accommodate RF, or direct brainwave connections, or carrier pigeon, or...
Very informative, thanks Matt. Your "windows are closed 99% of the time". Such a contrast to my house in NY's Hudson Valley. Our windows are open every night from mid-May thru September, and all day as well except on the hot days of July and August. No A.C. except a couple of small window units for avg 8 days per summer.
I recently went from a Marvin Double hung to an Alpen European R9 window. Man, the difference in comfort is substantial. House just feels stable in the high heat and humidity.
Double hung anything sucks
I prefer my donuts triple glazed.
Cheaper too.
Good breakdown. Low “E” has made a huge difference to my antique furniture, stopped fading and darkening as well as damaging UV. Lifetime warranty is Important, I’ve replaced 2 over 20 years, one, the vinyl window separated and the other fogged between the glass.
Laminated glass reduces UV about 98% but it is expensive. Aftermarket films will do the same while adding an exceptional security advantage
Each dead air space and each "interface" between air and glass adds to the "difficulty to transfer heat"
So the triple WILL be better for insulation (if the glass types are equal)
And this is why a storm window or even the old plastic film kits we double stick taped to the wall over the window helps. It creates another dead air space and another set of glass (plastic membrane) interfaces..
I have triple glaze krypton filled, the insulating value is nearly "r10" but the sound deadening is worth the price.
Sounds like you have found the Alside Preservaion or Ultramax windows with a U value of .9 and a SHG >1 with 2 soft coat low E coatings.... That is what I spent 7 years selling :). The labor to install is exactly the same so upgrading is very small cost difference!
Sounds good.
But you do have to always keep in mind that windows with special gasses will lose their R-value over time due to the gasses leaking/permeating.
Is the sound insulation at that good?
Huh!?
@Dean Turner my windows are open 24/7
Damn the yeti metaphor really sold me. No windows for my custom home, called the architect and told him it's a go on the dungeon them 👌
JDM Dragon, all joking aside, I’ve seen designs with little to no windows on North side of building. Can save a bundle of energy.
We took up my local airport's offer to do sound abatement and insulation on our home in '05. We have double double glazed windows in most places (yeah, four panes of glass in a vinyl frame!)
Why is the solar heat gain coefficient on the triple glaze not as good? Seems like it should at least be able to match the double glaze. A line I really like 5:10 "I was concerned about overall budget, it's my families house". Spoken like a contractor. :)
Because the triple pane absorbs more heat on the inside and room-side layers, which is then carried into the interior of the house. Although the solar energy has been absorbed, something still has to happen to it, and solar heat gain coefficient takes into account the energy which was absorbed as well as the energy that was reflected.
@@youstubers5722 it's because there is less space for the gas filled cavity. Triple glaze takes up space where gas should be. Triple glaze is not for better insulation but for sound deadening
Simply put, it is Because it is doing a better job of keeping the heat in or out
Triple glaze blocks and reflects more of the sun’s energy than dual glaze IG.
Matt you have just created the most informative and quality video about windows on the internet.
We replaced the windows in our house in two phases. For the second set we did the manufacturer had a deal on triple pain. We don't really notice the difference in the common areas, but in the bedrooms you can feel the cold coming off the windows. We live in Wisconsin. I wish we had gone with triple pane in the bedrooms and at least where the windows were close to furniture.
Matt 2021: Triple Glaze vs Quadruple glaze
Quadruple qlaze fixed window with u-factor 0,5 (SI)
Check out Alpen windows. They use layers of low E coated plastic film suspended between the glass to achieve really good U factor. It's essentially quadruple glazed, but with plastic for the inner panes instead of more glass.
@@mattv5281 Only problem with those is high cost and much shorter life expectancy. Heat Mirror/Southwall Technologies/MIT was the pioneer of this concept back in the late 70's, came to market in 1983. Pay quadruple the price of double pane and last less than half as long. Lose - Lose proposition. Horrible product in any climate with large high/low temp swings. My house in Idaho had them, complete failure on all east and southern exposures in less than 5 years. West side failed in 6th year, north side never failed by the time I moved away.
@@youstubers5722 Problem with anecdotal evidence is that there is some evidence for virtually every possibility. I did a complete rebuild of a set of slope glass roofs (about 1200 sq ft total, and all single pane) that failed miserably and leaked torrents for years. Along the Front Range in Denver area, sun is pretty bad. We researched the new glazing extensively, and did Heat Mirror (factory close at hand). Top glass was tempered, then the Heat Mirror film, then the inner glass was laminated, per code. That was because of weight of each pane was about 400#, and getting hit with that load of tempered crumbs is still dangerous. Height over the floor may have been a factor in that as well; it has been awhile. I seem to recall we used 66% transmission. There are/ were a number of available transmission levels based on the thickness of the metal spray on the Mylar film; at 44%, the view is pretty hazy, like looking through Vaseline film on a sheet of glass. Completed in 2001, no problems reported up until the home changed hands a few years ago. Since then, I am not sure, but somehow, big problems always seem to find me, so I suspect that everything is still okay.
Reality is that one has to be nuts to do this kind of slope glazing, especially in Colorado, but covering it with a solid roof would have turned the best part of this huge house into a dungeon.
Note: The original designer died of complications from Alzheimers a few years after the original job was finished (!).
Quadruple glaze is not effective as the spacers self destruct from the heat within the panes of glass in quadruple
I used triple in my home and I’m in California where I don’t really need them. In my bedroom I used triple with a tint in the middle to keep the sun out and that helps keep the hot and cold out. I didn’t find triple that much more than double. But when I added the I think it was a Milar tint.
Loved the idea to mix and match to meet your thermal goals! How about an episode on Kitchen appliances? Low versus high cost and the long term benefits there like windows?
It's worth mentioning how much more "soundproofing" you can achieve with a good triple glazed window package Vs double.
The sound alone, especially if you're out in the city, is absolutely worth its weight in gold! But even out in the middle of nowhere, like my home, it's incredible what you can hear even without traffic. Before we built the house we're in now, we lived on another farm. All double glazed windows, and though not built as well as the current, it was very over built for that time. There was always what seemed like a crew of crickets fiddling away, bullfrogs croaking, coyotes, and cattle right next to the bedroom windows. I enjoy these sounds, just not so loud that you can't tell if the window is closed 100% or not. (I am slightly exaggerating) but seriously, the difference in noise levels is incredible. Our new home is so much more quiet and comfortable, and while I imagine the technology in material like rockwool, green glue, and building super air tight, etc. etc. help a ton, I know the difference of sound coming through the windows. Just from building different homes with different quality windows.
Small hail on triple glazing sounds like rain during a thunderstorm on double. The average thunderstorms on triple glaze is a mere misting sound. Sometimes we'll get a toad stomper, and won't know until we see it or we really get thunder comin in.
I am not by any means a "salesman."
As a BUILDER....When you are having a super efficient home built, and you're talking a drop in the bucket on your overall price of the build, I've never seen it make more sense to go double than triple. "Buy once, cry once." If that means upgrading to that super fancy lighting, hardware, countertops, etc... And spending it on the quality of the structure, and comfort of the home... you do that. It is much easier, much more cost efficient, and just makes more sense than tearing into the cladding and envelope down the road to upgrade. If you can swing it, go triple. Don't skimp on the windows, structure, insulation, or heating and cooling. Facades and interior options are much easier and more likely to be updated anyway.
Just my humble opinion. Hopefully it will help someone out. Take care!
Most houses aren't kept forever by the original owner. A fool is born every minute, who will pay top dollar for location while being oblivious to building quality. The age of the discriminating buyer is long, long gone, except in egregious and obvious situations. The oblliviousness to efficiency is, moreover, MASSIVE, by renters.
What about the sound deadening between the double and the triple glazed windows ?
See Doug's comment above.
Lol, 10 degrees in the north, try -10 on a regular basis during January, and some -30s in some areas!
Your in Minnesota too aren't you!
@@simoncameron4355 raised there, but haven't strayed too far away
exactly -30 in wyoming
you should mention also that triple works great with road and train noise
All things being equal, triple-panes are barely quieter than doubles. If you don't believe me, check out sound transmission data from the manufacturers. If you really want noise control, order glazing designed for that purpose (for example, panes with different thicknesses to deaden a broader range of frequencies).
@@PaxsonWoelber The video is correct. Tripple gives a lot when we talk comfort and sound. More than data says. And do non opening if you can, you save a lot of money.
@@PaxsonWoelber Yes. What you said. I should add that upgrading one pane (of two or three) to a greater thickness for the sake of sound is relatively common option in the higher performance window lines of reputable window manufactures. Finding a salesperson who gives you that option because they know what it is might be a little less common.
Clarification of R-factor/U-factor conversion as I was confused. R-factor == 1 / U-factor. Example from video: 1 / U-factor of 0.29 == R-factor of 3.45
I have triple pane windows on my 1960s house in canada. Totally worth the upgrade. Thanks for the insight Matt!
I used to live in an apartment where all the windows were shutter style, and there was always at least an 1/8 inch gap between the slots. The only way to prevent air from blowing in was to apply clear film over the windows. The apartment had no AC or heater so it was extremely energy efficient. I would call it "aggressive house".
Where was this, geographically? In Torrance CA, it wouldn't matter, because it's so temperate all year around. I live in Long Beach, where we have much bigger temperature swings.
South Bay has that marine layer that always keeps things cool. I install windows in the South Bay and most contractors in hermosa and Manhattan will go with double glazed windows
Yeah just put helium in the balloons.
China has a technology that sees everything all over the world through undiscovered waves
I live by a highway have not measured the sound decibels but of course im considering how much to invest, seems to me triple pain will eliminate noise...as opposed to double pane.
Matt Says: "Divide by 1"
Matt means: Divide 1 by U-factor
Great video Matt! The house is looking good.
I have double hung windows and they do a pretty great job at sealing out the elements. I can see that awning and casement windows would do a better job because of the full seal it creates.
Very informative. Thanks Matt!
I hope you do more window design videos.
A canadian builder I talked to who is very into energy efficiency says double glazed windows are better for south facing windows if you want winter solar gain. The third pain reduces the transparancy and loses more heat input than it saves
Also, in the south/summer. you can make a heck of a difference with awnings/porches.
Or roll down shades.
@@dlwatib Nope. You gotta stop the sun BEFORE it gets through one layer of glass. It's called radiant barrier science.
Matt, where are all the European Tilt/Turn windows you love?
What about window treatments. In the Northeast we use insulated curtains to help. They can be very expensive but work really well.
I recognize the box fan on the floor for air flow on job site. I like to use a furnace filter on top.
This video was worth watching simply for the logic behind SHGC and how that relates to window location. Thanks Matt!!!!
In Denmark we have 300-400+ millimeter insulation in our walls, roofs and floors.
(I wanted to edit this and change it up a bit but I don't have the time. The main focus is still valid though and I'd be very interested in seeing an ultimate showdown of two houses like I mentioned below. I think it would be beyond interesting and very informative!)
I see you focusing 100% on energy efficiency/performance in virtually all of your videos (at least the ones I've watched, not counting this one). You're constantly talking about alternative construction methods and alternative products that can have an AMAZING difference in efficiency. But you don't seem to ever mention price to performance ratio. What I essentially mean is how much you are going to save in utility bills compared to how much MORE you'll be spending on these amazing products. For example; a traditional house that is constructed with regular studs, regular OSB sheets, typical insulation, a non conditioned attic, typical central air system with duct systems that aren't engineered.... Just your basic everything. How much will the heating and cooling bills be monthly? And then you have your ultimate efficiency house; tstuds, those zip OSB sheets, best insulation, conditioned attic space, great windows, engineered and completely sealed duct work, very efficient system (maybe even a geothermal system) ... I'm talking EVERYTHING done with the absolute most efficient materials and in the most efficient way. Now how much will the heating and cooling bills cost for this home? After comparing the heating and cooling bills, then you compare up front costs... How much MORE did it cost to build the ultimate efficient home? Take these numbers and figure out how many years, or decades even, it will take before the cost was worth it.
What I'm getting at is that there MUST be a GOOD balance somewhere. Some products might cost so much that even though they are far superior, the price to performance ratio is just too high. I have a great interest in increasing the energy efficiency of my home but I am not rich or even wealthy. So the cost MUST be worth it. Finding that perfect balance is crucial for me and for most people. Not everybody can afford to just dump a ton of money into their home (be it a new home, or a remodel) if it'll be decades before the savings are worth it. Gotta hit that sweet spot. And I'd love to see you do a video on that idea specifically if you haven't already.
Highly unlikely video. Matt needs the revenue stream of wishful thinkers; clicks are everything. Super expensive, super-performance is a much better video sell than plain ole, plain ole. I build for some pretty well-heeld clientele, and I could not see advocating the full range of what we do for them, for the general population. It is just not realistic. Presumably, you have followed the Matt / Meet Kevin interactions? Kevin is a bit of a dick, in my view, but essentially correct in that money and ROI is a part of anything one does, like it or not. Matt lives in a world of skewed values, rich clients and donated and subsidized materials for himself. My own experienced but unverifiable opinion is that very little one does to a home has a genuine payback: costs are too high for quality anything, and our energy costs are still relatively low.
I started out in 1971, as a design build type. For a long time, my jobs (additions and renovations) were justified by the homeowners on the basis of the big payback (increased value) when they went to sell. The first big downturn put the lie to that. The reality is that most of those jobs saw an increase in value due to inflation and demand. The owners would have had a better return on their investment if they had done nothing at all (except basic maintenance).
Final thought: Matt is a builder who employs the principles of building science. That is NOT the same as being a building scientist, and certainly not a building science economist. And, Matt will not respond to you, as mixing it up online gets contentious and negative (usually very quickly), and that is bad for the brand.
You might also want an exterior overhang design where your south facing windows are in shade in the summer, but get direct sun to the interior in winter.
I replaced the windows in my Texas 1950 house in two stages. I started with triple pane. And finished with double pane disappointed that I had put triples in. The whole issue was the amount of light I get. I have large windows and have to turn lights on in the middle of the day. Daylight is key to health and happiness. At least in the south, I would think twice before pitting in tripe glazed windows.
Matt, just small note. Divided by 1 will give you a very different answer that 1 divided by, which is what you did. Yeah, math nerd, here. Keep up with the great videos!!! :o)
Matt, My house is constructed using brick over block with all windows triple-glazed. I live within 1 block of two 4-lane high traffic roads. No traffic noise audible inside. Fire truck and emergency rescue horns and sirens are audible. I don't know if your windows are sound rated, but as I live in the city, this is an important feature of triple-glazed windows.
Nice Matt! Im gonna re-side and re-window the entire home soon, looks like im going with Jeld-Wen Triple
Most places in the southern states do not regularly stock triple glaze. That increases the cost difference to go to triple because custom always ups the cost.
I installed all casement and awning windows on my DC row house. I went with Marvin Infinity. During my planning process, they became available in black. I used that and love the look. I love how high quality they are. If I could do it again then I would have installed all triple glazed and half inoperable.
People who have slider windows should switch to awning. Awning generally looks nice and works in those window openings that are long and skinny.
Growing up, my neighbor's house had fake double-glaze windows. What they did was butt-up a single-glaze window behind a single-glaze window. Both windows were sliding-windows, but it did a very good job at lowering his power bill during the winter.
I live in the north , cold sessions like 8 months or so. If i invest in 3 glasses, I calculate that return on/of investment is about 40 years. In my case shifting existing windows. I had a salesman knocking on my door, we did the maths. The current widows have about 3U and the new he had to offer 0.7 , the window area ~20 (small house) savings are approximately 4MW per year. It sounds much and it is. But compare to the costs of the new windows and labour, it's all about comfort.
The correct way to say it would be that R factor the inverse of the U number. There's also a 1/x button on the iphone if you rotate it which makes life easier when youre shooting through conversions
Appreciate the differences in windows & how you explained the values & info in this video; & think it’s “simple” enough for non builders (trades ppl) to understand about Windows.
My Sister & her husband are in the stages of building their first house here in sunny, hot humid FL (ugh🤦🏼♂️), & think sharing this vid with them would be a great opportunity for them to understand Windows; so when it comes time for them to choose which options to go with, they’ll be more informed (funny how family has a hard time “learning” from family, right😉. Another reason why I’m the gonna be the builder for them; but will happily help them anyway I can & answer their questions).
Cheers Matt & Build Crew✌🏼
Thanks Matt!
On a new build putting forethought into overhangs and awnings on the sunny sides would negate the solar gain in southern climes and far more effective than additional layers of glass.
This is why I really dislike modern "tiny" lots with buildings that go all the way to the edge that have absolutely no overhangs. Energy sucking monsters.
Matt: When you do a sponsored video do you have to run your content by your sponsor before publishing or are your thoughts your own?
Remember when he was sponsored by Marvin windows?
how long do they (double and triple) usually lasts? i see a lot of double here failing (leaking air in) after 5 to 6 years, any recommended brands?
I thought using a lot of fixed windows was a really good idea. In our mid 70's house opening windows in the evening is an important way we cool the house cheaply. But assuming modern insulation, ERVs and perhaps ventilation that can quickly fill the house with low temperature evening air there doesn't seem to be much reason to open windows for cooling or ventilation. And in an area where pollen and humidity are issue there are some strong reasons not to open windows.
In winter my windows are closed due to the cold. In summer because some neighbour is always mowing or blowing and I can't stand the noise.
E-coating or heat control films dramatically improve room summer heat gain or winter 'cold gain'. I have been going through my current house adding Gila Heat Control Platinum and it helps both South and North windows for heat gain or heat loss.
reciprocal not divide by 1
At least he didn't try to divide by zero.
I think he just misspoke. Did the math right though.
Inverse
I have them and they don't block out noise at all. The sun still beats in them in the afternoon and it's still hot lol the black screens on the outside drop it about 8 dagrees... But they are really not worth spending the money
"I was concern about overall budget"... that is one nice way of saying it..... but keep up the good work! Very interesting videos you are making.
In AZ, dead of summer, its 120+ outside, im probably gonna have the units cranked down to 60 degrees. That's a 60 degre delta, people don't insulate houses down here like the do in the north and they really should.
2:45 "Divide that by one to get the coefficient." e.g. 0.29 ÷ 1 = 0.29
Mathematician: *dies on the spot* ("Did he mean 'Take the inverse'?")
Same here!!
He did mean to take the inverse (ex: 1/0.29). The "U factor" represents thermal conductance, while the "R factor" represents thermal resistance. These two are direct inverses of eachother.
Should be divide one by that.
Did anyone really have difficulty with understanding what he meant? If so, you got bigger problems...
Of course he meant take the inverse. You don't have to be a mathematician to understand that he mistakenly said the wrong thing.
I did not hear you talk about one of our most important reasons for using triple pane at least in Iowa . In a tight sealed house the humidity will increase and freeze on a double pane in winter .And the other number I think helpful is what is the temperature of the inside surface of the window at say 10 degrees F outside temperature. And compare that to triple vs double. In our situation the triple raised the surface temp above the inside dew point and stopped the condensation.41 degrees with double and 51 degrees with triple inside with outdoor temp of 10 degrees F.
great info man, thanks for taking the time to share
I’m in the gwn n want to share my findings with windows. They will b the coldest area of any room during the cold spells. So that’s why you need to understand what ur doing as wintertime comfort is golden up here. Temp gets to -30 plus any wind and heat inside 70-75 that’s a hundred degree swing. The only time I can tolerate lower inside temp is with a boiler heating cause it’ operates differently with more even heat. Your vids really aren’t adequate for us up here but great ideas n I mean the reality aspect. The in floor heat concept is great but don’t forget u will need a/c too n it’s different system. Currently it seems this aspect of the build can b a large number in ur cost but well spent for here. Efficiency is really where focus is needed.
Triple glazed is good in a northern location where the interior glass temp in double glazed will be cold enough to cause condensation. The colder your exterior temp the more likely that your homes interior humidity will cause condensation. If your in those regions you should bump up.
The space between pains is different between manufacturers. 1/4" up to 1". Thickness of glass. Gas filled. High end windows are often better designed to handle the additional weight a third pane of glass. Sound proofing increases as well. $ goes up with quality. Your house is coming along. Looks great!
In the UK we need a good solar gain. That is we want the maximum amount of solar energy to come into our houses. "Pilkington K" glass has a coating which allows solar energy to come into the house but tends to reflect infra-red internal energy back into the room. Great for large south facing windows in the winter.
Wish I had known about Jeld-Wen before replacing all the windows in my home last year.
Matt, still waiting on the invite to tint your office windows. 😁. I’ve been tinting since the late 90’s. You cannot tint triple glaze windows safely. Double pane, your tint must have a heat absorption less than 50% otherwise it could trap heat between panes and break the seals or glass if they are annealed glass.
Even with the modern nano ceramics?
I’m guessing that putting 12mil security film on both the inside and outside of a triple-pane is a no-go?
@@trevorrisley5419 I’m not sure why you would need that on a home with triple glazed windows. Attachment systems for that on homes don’t have the best looking options. You might be able to do it in clear film if you really wanted to.
And it's off to the comments section to see what the real experts say.
Great. Experts come where there is something decent to talk about
Underrated comment
I am in Mississippi, We see 100+f and single digit winter the last 2-3 years.
I saw the specs for triple pane picture windows made here in Manitoba, Canada and they are apparently more efficient than 2x4 walls and almost as efficient as 2x6. Worth the money up here.
Triple glazing reduces visible light transmittance by about 25%, so if you buy windows for light, then design for 25% larger windows. That should just about negate any energy savings, while adding 25% to the cost, plus another 20% upcharge for triple glazing.
It's true that no window lets in light after dark so triple glazing is great at night, and in the north that's 15 hours/day during winter.
I'm not yet sold on triple glazing (as you might surmise). For now, I am getting the best LowE coatings, argon/krypton gas, and the best glass spacers for a U value of 0.24. Windows are only about 15% of floorspace and probably less than 5% of the insulated envelope, so I don't get too panicky about needing triple glazing in my area.
I think you recommended using triple on North and East and double on South and West. Shouldn't I want that reversed?
Depends... South and west (northen hemisphere) are the sun sides. So less cold in winter and benefit more from the solar radiation shielding.
@@christianvanderstap6257 How is West more "sun side" than East? It is not so in terms of Earth/Sun relationship, so some other factor must be in play.
Do double-glazed windows generally have a better solar heat gain coefficient than triple-glazed? Or is more a function of the type of coating that is specified on the given window?
How long until these windows fog up? I have six brands of windows on my house due to various remodels.
The Marvin’s from 1992 have all fogged and the low-E coating is destroyed.
The Kolbe & Kolbe tilt-pac windows from 2000 are all in great shape! They are still supporting these and a pair of new jamb liners with balances is on the way. No fogging.
The Andersen 200 series double hung windows from 2003 are all good. I’m pricing some Andersen double hung insert windows right now for the living room. They will replace the original 1948 casements that smash people’s heads when they walk up the front stairs. 😂
A Viking (Home Depot) window in the bathroom has fogged up on one side. The others are vinyl in the garage and basement and too new to evaluate.
Excellent video. I bet a lot will view this video since it's exactly about this most important factor double versus triple glass. Great to see Jeldwin offer's it too
Back in 2002 I replaced the original Anderson single glazed windows in my 1950's home with Schuco triple glaze. I live on a very busy street and was mainly interested in the sound proofing qualities. Never regretted my choice.
I too live in a busy street with a 1940 original wood windows, I have external windows and even put 1/4 inch plexiglass and still the sound of the trucks I can’t kill. Should I get triple pane or should I insulate first my walls
Just one thing you have to keep in mind is Visible transmittance. there is a bit of a hit when you go to triple. if you are in a shaded area to begin within, I had to opt not to use them. I need all the natural light I can get. Unfortunately there seems to be a bottle neck in glass technology now.
I put a bunch of cheap Jeld Wen windows in my house and I can't believe how good they are for the price.
@@FreezeinHellBatman Honestly passive house standard windows are not really necessary in most of the US, especially Texas where Matt is. For colder climates I think its a must tho.
Great information, good idea to only use the higher priced tripple on the sides that need it most.
However I have worked out that building well draught sealed shutters with poly carb inserts will add a better thermal barrier for less cost, and a shutter made from rigid foam core insulation to act as night time curtains will really keep the cold out and the heat in
these shutters can they be rolled up/down, where do you get them?
@@psu8782 I was planning to build them myself. They would be side hinged and stay open or closed with magnet catches.
To make the winter polycarb part you just cut a sheet larger than the glass, so it goes onto the frame, and stick magnetic strip on both frame and the polycarb, this forms a natural draught proof barrier. you can paint the strips on the frame so they look nicer when the polycarb is not there.
Well, I am not as wealthy as these house builders, I would rather spend the extra cost that tripple glazing costs on other insulating methods such as the roof or walls, because thats the majority of the building
For the most part I agree. Something else to look at is REDUCE the number of windows. Lots of architects like to put windows in every wall in the house and they love these floor to ceiling windows. Now if you live in that house it's a nightmare.
Bedrooms will have a door on two of its walls and floor to ceiling windows on the other two. Now where do you put your furniture?
If our house had been sided instead of brick (I hate brick since it makes it hard to remodel and it absorbs heat and moisture) I would have removed several windows in our 1960 house.
My favorite windows are the euro style casements with the built in exterior screen. Great for stopping storm damage and they block out 100% of the light and some sound when closed. When we go to Greece I want to stop at the hardware store right by the airport, pick some up and haul them home.
I agree you can have too many windows. I also think that the squarer a window is the more efficient it should be. The U value for the frame always seems to be worse than the glass, so a square window would minimise frame size relative to the area (unless you want round windows...)
I agree with triple glazed using on our north windows (I'm in a Toronto suburb). However, the cost of replacing them (Jeldwen) has been quote for much more than 15%
You dont have apologize on a construction site for noise, if someone complains, tell them to watch Netflix.
If you ever build a house in Oklahoma, I would LOVE to see how tight I could get your home Mr. Risinger. My companies name is Bo’s insulation out of Oklahoma City and we’re very passionate about moving the building industry forward through better materials and quality craftsmanship.
The comfort level provided by triple glazing is on a different level compared to double. Most windows last 20 to years so just get the triple.
Matt, your solar heat gain is dependent upon the Low E coating. You should always go soft coat Low E vs Builder Priletic Hard Coat. Also some windows can be ordered with multiple Low e coatings virtually eliminating the heat gain!
Triple glaze also really blocks sound, very noticeable. I have both in my home as well.
In climate zone 7, we see -40F in the winter.
Any value divided by one is that value. I believe you should have said divide the U factor INTO one, i.e. 1/.18. How about a discussion about Passive House vs. Net Zero?
We blew by Net zero a few years ago with a model that created 159% of it's own energy, certified by an accountant in Iowa. Same cost as stick construction too. The model going up next month should create 200% of it's own energy. www.energypositivehomes.us let me know if you want more info Scott
Good to know , I'll be using the double glazed to build my house here in Texas
I love this video. It gives a good place to start from when looking for windows. Thanks for the guideline.
Single pane is the way to go!
You forgot to mention sound transmission. Three panes work together to dramatically reduce incoming noise, more than one might expect just by adding a third layer of glass. This can be seen in graphs of window sound transmission. One pane does very little; a second helps somewhat, while a third pane dramatically improves attenuation, even at lower frequencies.
We installed JW double hung clad windows and patio doors on a 12 year old remodel. Very happy with the performance and appearance, the screens not so much.
What was the issue with the screens? Building homes.....
'Open the window for fresh air' is a tough client perception to overcome, and as you know and preach, HRV/ERVs provide fresh air.
10 degrees in winter. Around here we call that a january thaw, balmy sweatshirt weather. Try -20,30,40 at times and up to 100 in august
Where at? 😅