These are the parts I used to fix the dishwasher: - Circulation Pump (Amazon link amzn.to/2JAluEr ) - Stainless Hose Clamps (Amazon link amzn.to/2XiKFyR ) - Float Switch (Amazon link amzn.to/382ScaT ) - Fill Valve (Amazon link amzn.to/2KRjGHS ) www.NateFixesIt.com
Apparently this is an extremely common problem with Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag etc. dishwashers. Apparently over 100 model DWs use that same crappy pump. Awesome video.
Thank you! I have the same dishwasher. Not even 5 years old and it was showing me a 6-4 code when I ran a diagnostic test on it. Called for a turbidity sensor, I knew it was something else. Ordered the float switch and new circulation pump and it works like a charm again.
Great video. I’ve come to the conclusion I got a new defective pump as I put it in and it just hums intermittently as if the. Earring is froze. So gonna get to put it in again. At least I’m not giving up and buying a new Dishwasher cause of your videos. Thanks !
Glad that I could help. You can also check your old pump, on mine the motor still worked but the impeller had fallen off. If it’s the same issue on yours you may be able to push it back on as a temporary fix while you wait for the new pump.
Got the same issue on my KDTE104ESS1, error 6-4 and would hear a buzzing sound, and barely any water when running the wash cycle. Replaced the water fill valve and float switch and no dice. Replaced the main recirculation pump and voila. Same fix as you, but I replaced the entire sump rather than just the pump itself.
For the circulation pump, you can run a cycle and open the door part way through the cycle to see if it is spraying water and if the arms are spinning. This isn’t fool proof, but if it is spraying and spinning, you know that is not the problem. If it isn’t spraying, it could be a pump issue, but that’s not guaranteed. To truly test them, you need to remove them and apply power to the motor to see if it works. This can be dangerous if you don’t have the right electrical tools. On mine, when I removed the circulation pump, the impeller had fallen off. The motor was fine, and I was able to reattach the impeller. Since I already had the new pump I installed it and now have the old pump as a spare.
Double check the connections and look for corrosion. I replaced my diverter motor and the connection had some blue corrosion and probably wasn’t gonna make a proper contact so cleaned it with a thin sandpaper and alcohol
It’s an 1-1/2” clamp I believe. If you don’t have one that big but have two smaller ones you can open them both up and join them to make one larger clamp.
My KitchenAid looks identical to yours but when I went to do the repair, mine is different. I have a KDTM404KPS0. Seems like there is only one pump used for draining and circulation? Mine drains but won’t circulate. I removed my filter and it was 100% clogged. Hair etc and then grease clinged onto it all. My question is, can my circulation pump be bad even though my DW is draining? I don’t want to waste money unless the answer is yes, it’s possible for it to drain but not circulate. Could also maybe be a run capacitor or bad diverter valve. Dishwasher is 2 years old.
I am not familiar with your specific model, but I looked up a parts list (www.searspartsdirect.com/model/42gxdq5b5p-000593/kitchenaid-kdtm404kps0-dishwasher-parts?sid=sem:ggl:dsagroupa:138954166054::m&keyword=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0snx68-JggMVTfXICh1_-QguEAAYAiAAEgKt5fD_BwE). It seems like there is a separate pump (item 14) for the spray arms.
Did you end up fixing this? I have the same dishwasher, I'm getting error 10-5, which is a diverter leak, but I was previously getting a 9-1 error, which was a drain error. Just curious how you fixed yours.
The unit needs to be operating to fully check for leaks (filled with water and pumps running). You certainly can check for leaks if you can keep the drain, power, and water inlet all connected while it is uninstalled. Even if you do that , I still recommend testing for leaks after it is fully installed in case anything gets bumped loose during the installation.
@@NateFixesIt Yes, it's all installation dependent. I did a circulation pump replacement yesterday. Thankfully, all I had to disconnect was the drain line. I used a bucket for that so was able to test the dishwasher before putting it back into the cabinet. It's a no-go only type of test and I agree that it should be tested again when fully installed. To me, there's nothing worse than fully re-installing a dishwasher only to learn a leak has developed over something forgotten while putting everything back together again.
These are the parts I used to fix the dishwasher:
- Circulation Pump (Amazon link amzn.to/2JAluEr )
- Stainless Hose Clamps (Amazon link amzn.to/2XiKFyR )
- Float Switch (Amazon link amzn.to/382ScaT )
- Fill Valve (Amazon link amzn.to/2KRjGHS )
www.NateFixesIt.com
Thanks, helped me fix my Kenmore 665 model!
Glad I could help!
Glad that I could help!
Apparently this is an extremely common problem with Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag etc. dishwashers. Apparently over 100 model DWs use that same crappy pump. Awesome video.
On my pump, the impeller had fallen off of the motor shaft. Seems to be a common issue. Thanks for watching!
Dude, I really appreciate your help. I was almost to the point of replacing my dishwasher.
Glad that I could help!
Thank you! I have the same dishwasher. Not even 5 years old and it was showing me a 6-4 code when I ran a diagnostic test on it. Called for a turbidity sensor, I knew it was something else. Ordered the float switch and new circulation pump and it works like a charm again.
Glad that I could help!
Great video. I’ve come to the conclusion I got a new defective pump as I put it in and it just hums intermittently as if the. Earring is froze. So gonna get to put it in again. At least I’m not giving up and buying a new Dishwasher cause of your videos. Thanks !
Glad that I could help. You can also check your old pump, on mine the motor still worked but the impeller had fallen off. If it’s the same issue on yours you may be able to push it back on as a temporary fix while you wait for the new pump.
Got the same issue on my KDTE104ESS1, error 6-4 and would hear a buzzing sound, and barely any water when running the wash cycle. Replaced the water fill valve and float switch and no dice. Replaced the main recirculation pump and voila. Same fix as you, but I replaced the entire sump rather than just the pump itself.
Glad that you were able to fix it. Thanks for watching!
How can i test the circulation pump and the diverter motor to make sure they are bad before replacing them?
For the circulation pump, you can run a cycle and open the door part way through the cycle to see if it is spraying water and if the arms are spinning. This isn’t fool proof, but if it is spraying and spinning, you know that is not the problem. If it isn’t spraying, it could be a pump issue, but that’s not guaranteed.
To truly test them, you need to remove them and apply power to the motor to see if it works. This can be dangerous if you don’t have the right electrical tools. On mine, when I removed the circulation pump, the impeller had fallen off. The motor was fine, and I was able to reattach the impeller. Since I already had the new pump I installed it and now have the old pump as a spare.
I have code 6-4 I already replaced circulation pump inlet valve and water level switch and it still just fills and drains what else should I check
Those are the three things I can think of. Are you sure that all of the electrical connections are tight?
Double check the connections and look for corrosion. I replaced my diverter motor and the connection had some blue corrosion and probably wasn’t gonna make a proper contact so cleaned it with a thin sandpaper and alcohol
@@Laissez_Faire great tip
What size hose clamp did you use?
It’s an 1-1/2” clamp I believe. If you don’t have one that big but have two smaller ones you can open them both up and join them to make one larger clamp.
My KitchenAid looks identical to yours but when I went to do the repair, mine is different. I have a KDTM404KPS0. Seems like there is only one pump used for draining and circulation? Mine drains but won’t circulate. I removed my filter and it was 100% clogged. Hair etc and then grease clinged onto it all. My question is, can my circulation pump be bad even though my DW is draining? I don’t want to waste money unless the answer is yes, it’s possible for it to drain but not circulate. Could also maybe be a run capacitor or bad diverter valve. Dishwasher is 2 years old.
I am not familiar with your specific model, but I looked up a parts list (www.searspartsdirect.com/model/42gxdq5b5p-000593/kitchenaid-kdtm404kps0-dishwasher-parts?sid=sem:ggl:dsagroupa:138954166054::m&keyword=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0snx68-JggMVTfXICh1_-QguEAAYAiAAEgKt5fD_BwE). It seems like there is a separate pump (item 14) for the spray arms.
Did you end up fixing this? I have the same dishwasher, I'm getting error 10-5, which is a diverter leak, but I was previously getting a 9-1 error, which was a drain error. Just curious how you fixed yours.
Only one critique... Wouldn't it have been better to test (for leaks) before re-installing back into the cabinet?
The unit needs to be operating to fully check for leaks (filled with water and pumps running). You certainly can check for leaks if you can keep the drain, power, and water inlet all connected while it is uninstalled. Even if you do that , I still recommend testing for leaks after it is fully installed in case anything gets bumped loose during the installation.
@@NateFixesIt Yes, it's all installation dependent. I did a circulation pump replacement yesterday. Thankfully, all I had to disconnect was the drain line. I used a bucket for that so was able to test the dishwasher before putting it back into the cabinet. It's a no-go only type of test and I agree that it should be tested again when fully installed. To me, there's nothing worse than fully re-installing a dishwasher only to learn a leak has developed over something forgotten while putting everything back together again.
@@JaleelJohanson62 glad that your repair went well!
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