I just wanted to thank you for this. I was a jenn-air/magic chef rep years ago but that was back when whirlpool/kitchen aid/Kenmore was its own and Frigidaire (or as used to say to Roy Knutson 'if you FrickenDare') was its own too. I used to be able to triple stack a kitchen aid when they were still porcelain - ask Jeff Warner he was my witness.
I get trying to reduce out of pocket expenses, influenced by sunk costs. But the cost of those replacement parts and your time priced at minimum wage - once- would have easily paid for a better designed Bosch (or a Maytag with a better waste handling system). If this Whirlpool goes 3 years without another badly designed critical part failing, I'll be surprised. I just need it to last until I move.
What problem did you have exactly? Our dishwasher top shelf is not getting clean. All filters/nozzles/spray arms accessible from inside are clean. I suspect water is not getting pumped up to top spray arm maybe?
EXCELLENT video!!!! I just replaced my pump minutes ago. The video was EXTREMELY helpful. Machine working perfectly now. NO NEED to remove the diverter. Also, my 45 year old ChannelLock end nippers worked perfectly to close the clamp exactly like the other clamp on the new pump. THANKS MUCH for posting the fine video.
Steve, You do a very good job on these repair videos. However, this repair is even easier by just replacing the motor in the housing. It just twists in/out like the drain motor. And like the drain motor, I wish the wash motor was available separately without the housing to save cost and waste. Please advise if the wash motor is available by itself. Thanks!
The most common reason for this pump failing is worn bearings. They will fail after 3-5 years of typical use, or one cycle per day, depending on how well dishes are pre-cleaned manually, the filters and machine cleaned, and water hardness (high iron content is worst). They're made of a graphite composite which is soft. Because the permanent magnet pump is oriented to lay flat against the bearing, the combination of its rotor mass and hard particles that aren't trapped by the filters abrades "lower" contact with the bearings, letting the rotor wobble and eventually attach to one pole. If the bearings were available as a repair part they could be easily replaced. Metric size sealed ceramic or stainless ball bearings would have been a better choice but would have raised the cost of the pump by a few dollars and reduced the sale of replacement parts and washers.
This is an excellent video! I was able to fix my pump with no problem. It's sad that this had to be fixed after barely a year old. It's very sad that they don't make appliances to last anymore. Again, excellent video and thank you very much
They design appliances like new cars. They look pretty, have silly "features", make are inconvenient for consumers to repair, and produce a steady stream of expensive replacement parts and service revenue for dealers. Using a torx screws and crimp-on hose clamps for service items that don't require them but squeeze clamps and phillips screws for diy installation is evidence.
That motor you removed to reapply the tube and clamp. What is it called? I bought my dishwasher from a store that sells returns from big box stores. I’m about to replace the pump you’re replacing, when I realize that motor is missing
I step-by-step video. The only thing I would add is that instead of using a screwdriver to pry off rubber hose, which can result in bloody knuckles or some plastic snapping, just put the small screwdriver underneath the end of the clamp and push up and my old clamp released. Also, my dishwasher had a large piece of concrete bolted to the bottom, but I don’t see that on yours, however, I do see the two screw holes where mine is bolted into. Anybody know what that is for?
No one mention how poor the motor design was to use a cheap rubber bushing emersed in dirty, hot hard water (calcium), that wears out in months. For most it means a new washer, even the diy it's a big hassle + may have to do it again in
with a probability of 80% a diverter motor starts to flow there. so just change the pump is not worth it. you need to change everything in the collection.
That age of dishwasher typically did not have that ability. The owners manual offers this information: If Start/Resume or any status lights are blinking and the dishwasher will not run, close the door and push START/RESUME or press START/RESUME and close the door within 3 seconds. If the dishwasher still will not run, call service"
I just wanted to thank you for this. I was a jenn-air/magic chef rep years ago but that was back when whirlpool/kitchen aid/Kenmore was its own and Frigidaire (or as used to say to Roy Knutson 'if you FrickenDare') was its own too. I used to be able to triple stack a kitchen aid when they were still porcelain - ask Jeff Warner he was my witness.
Thank you for your great instructions. I was able to fix my pump, watching your video. Thanks again
Great step-by-step video. I was able to fix the pump very easily. Thank you.
Thanks for the great instructional video! I used tile nippers to close the clamp. Worked great!
Glad it helped, and an excellent tip!
Thanks Steve. I've replaced water inlet valve, diverter, float switch, and now the pump. Saved me from buying a bosch!
I get trying to reduce out of pocket expenses, influenced by sunk costs. But the cost of those replacement parts and your time priced at minimum wage - once- would have easily paid for a better designed Bosch (or a Maytag with a better waste handling system). If this Whirlpool goes 3 years without another badly designed critical part failing, I'll be surprised. I just need it to last until I move.
I was able to replace the water circulation pump and it fixed the problem!
What problem did you have exactly? Our dishwasher top shelf is not getting clean. All filters/nozzles/spray arms accessible from inside are clean. I suspect water is not getting pumped up to top spray arm maybe?
Do you happen to know the size of the hose clamp needed? Trying to get all the parts ready ahead of time. Thanks, great video
Top instructional video. Helped me narrow down the problem and also replace expertly. Thank you sir!
EXCELLENT video!!!! I just replaced my pump minutes ago. The video was EXTREMELY helpful. Machine working perfectly now. NO NEED to remove the diverter. Also, my 45 year old ChannelLock end nippers worked perfectly to close the clamp exactly like the other clamp on the new pump. THANKS MUCH for posting the fine video.
I was wondering if I needed to get a regular screw hose clamp or if I could crimp with channel locks.
Thanks for the video made the repair even easier then it is. Thank You
Awesome step by step tutorial. My replacement is working great!
Excellent Instructions and tips Steve
Steve, You do a very good job on these repair videos. However, this repair is even easier by just replacing the motor in the housing. It just twists in/out like the drain motor. And like the drain motor, I wish the wash motor was available separately without the housing to save cost and waste. Please advise if the wash motor is available by itself. Thanks!
How hard is it to just replace the motor?
The most common reason for this pump failing is worn bearings. They will fail after 3-5 years of typical use, or one cycle per day, depending on how well dishes are pre-cleaned manually, the filters and machine cleaned, and water hardness (high iron content is worst). They're made of a graphite composite which is soft. Because the permanent magnet pump is oriented to lay flat against the bearing, the combination of its rotor mass and hard particles that aren't trapped by the filters abrades "lower" contact with the bearings, letting the rotor wobble and eventually attach to one pole. If the bearings were available as a repair part they could be easily replaced. Metric size sealed ceramic or stainless ball bearings would have been a better choice but would have raised the cost of the pump by a few dollars and reduced the sale of replacement parts and washers.
Looks to me like you could remove the whole pump assembly to service it from the topside if you throw those toggles underneath
This is an excellent video! I was able to fix my pump with no problem. It's sad that this had to be fixed after barely a year old. It's very sad that they don't make appliances to last anymore. Again, excellent video and thank you very much
Same here!!! How can these pumps go out so quickly? My friend has had his same dishwasher since 1998 and never replaced a thing.
They design appliances like new cars. They look pretty, have silly "features", make are inconvenient for consumers to repair, and produce a steady stream of expensive replacement parts and service revenue for dealers. Using a torx screws and crimp-on hose clamps for service items that don't require them but squeeze clamps and phillips screws for diy installation is evidence.
Perfect and well done!
What size pex crimp rings are them 2?? Amazon might sell them
Awesome stuff
That motor you removed to reapply the tube and clamp. What is it called? I bought my dishwasher from a store that sells returns from big box stores. I’m about to replace the pump you’re replacing, when I realize that motor is missing
Do you have a brand and model # for the pinch plier ?
I step-by-step video. The only thing I would add is that instead of using a screwdriver to pry off rubber hose, which can result in bloody knuckles or some plastic snapping, just put the small screwdriver underneath the end of the clamp and push up and my old clamp released. Also, my dishwasher had a large piece of concrete bolted to the bottom, but I don’t see that on yours, however, I do see the two screw holes where mine is bolted into. Anybody know what that is for?
I meant to say “NICE” step-by-step video
That appears to be a noise/vibration damper IMO, everything else on the pump assembly is rubber mounted & isolated.
Can u Tell me please what number part is that?
Whirlpool # W11032770
No one mention how poor the motor design was to use a cheap rubber bushing emersed in dirty, hot hard water (calcium), that wears out in months. For most it means a new washer, even the diy it's a big hassle + may have to do it again in
Easy enough fix for ours. Marriage saved
with a probability of 80% a diverter motor starts to flow there. so just change the pump is not worth it. you need to change everything in the collection.
@Vivito, I sometimes notice only having water sprayed on the top rack, but not the bottom. I assume replacing the diverter motor would fix that?
Hi Steve is there a way to pull codes on my dishwasher? 665.13453N412 ken more/whirlpool greatvideo, thanks!
That age of dishwasher typically did not have that ability. The owners manual offers this information: If Start/Resume or any status lights are blinking and the dishwasher will not run, close the door and push START/RESUME or press START/RESUME and close the door within 3 seconds. If the dishwasher still will not run, call service"