You should also pull a vacuum on the water pump carrier housing. There’s a Little aluminum tube mounted behind it, vacuum travels through it into water pump. Oring goes bad and causes leak. If not replaced you’ll be in the same boat. I do this junk constantly.
@@JuanOrtiz-mo8be unfortunately no. The little tube is held on to the back of the housing by two #10 inverted torx. Very stupid design. Removing the housing isn’t hard, just very time consuming.
Your are welcome sir. I’m still letting how to video. Easiest I have found is using a 8mm Allen socket that I cut about a 1/4 inch off using a long ratchet.
@drsoot9760 thank you for uploading this video, I've watched a number of other videos on water pump replacements for mercedes sprinters and they all pretty much take the front end off and the fan out, does this not need to be done? I'm changing my pump this week and would love to know as it would save me so much time and headache. Thank you
Get a cheap 8mm Allen/hex head socket to fit a 3/8 drive ratchet. Cut a 1/4 inch off of it to insure room between fan and radiator. Unsnap then the shroud push all the way against the engine without breaking. Personally I would put a piece of cardboard against the radiator to keep from damaging. The 8mm bolt is in the center of the fan. Get your ratchet in there then just use a pair of channel lock pliers to hold the fan. Once it’s lose you can pull fan and shroud together.
Hi Doc, i just got the diagnosis from my dealer and they want to change the Vacuum Reservoir as well, I did not happen to see any talk of this in your video or the comments, is that also contaminated and need to be replaced? Thank you.
So per Mercedes guidelines for those repairs it does include replacing the vacuum reservoir. But with that being said, after repairing 100+ of those vans, I generally made a judgment call on whether to change them. If I didn’t see any crusty dried antifreeze I would send it. I think I only ended changing 2 of those the entire time.
@@drsoot9760 Hi Again, as I went to buy the parts I learned more and got further concerned about how far I should go? They are saying that some pumps are now made without the vacuum attachment so that we forever avoid the leak into the cross over valve and i.e. Vac reservoir. They say that this vacuum system is just for short time the motor takes to warm up. Here in south Florida my motor is warm from the get go. The other thing I learned is that they have made a better “Water Pump Carrier Assembly” I guess for better fit and less leaks? Should we be putting in this updated part as well? Should I get a pump that eliminates the vac parts? I was told it will not throw any codes??? Thank you!
I was only able to install the traditional water pumps per the company I worked for. But I would definitely got that route just to be sure you won’t have the issue again.
I’m doing this now plus a vacuum pump. I am having issues with the 8mm fan bolt. Holding the pulley. Any tips or possibly the part number for the holding tool? Thanks. I have a few of these coming up on top of this one
scott r Get a cheap 8 mm socket, cut about a 1/4 inch off of it, a longer flex head 3/8 drive ratchet is just what I recommend. I can get you the part number for the holding tool, I made one, if you have a new pump get 2 metal pins and weld them to a thin piece of flat steel as the same placement as the holes in the pulley. Or..... cheap an quick way is get a big pair of channel locks. 😂. That bolt isn't to tight. Change the steal gasket and I normally change the change over valve for the water pump as well.
@Dr Soot. I have a 2015 Sprinter, 2500. 2.1L Motor and 172K. I just had the CEL come on, and it pulled the code P261F. That is the code for a "stuck" coolant change over valve I believe from the research i have done. I have not done or started any checks or vacuum tests yet, but wanted to get you advice on where to start. What should I change out. Do you think this is a water pump issue or vacuum change over valve issue
Christopher Jeffery Most likely with that code it is the pump and change over valve that controls the water pump. In most cases it doesn’t effect the way the truck runs until it pulls coolant into the vacuum system. Whenever I had that code come up I would change the pump and change over valve.
@@drsoot9760 DO you have any info/video on removing the fan and covers? Whats the best way to do this. I did my whole AC system/Clutch/drire and charged it all myself, so im pretty good with this stuff, just would love some insigt on getting to the water pump
@jeff. Easiest way to get it off is of course move the small hose on top of the shroud, then loosen up the shroud and push it against the motor. The bolt in the front of the fan is an 8mm Allen head. Get you a cheap socket for a 3/8 ratchet, cut about a 1/4 inch off of it so it gives you a little extra clearance between the fan and radiator. A long handled ratchet will make it much easier to. Once you get it in place take some channel locks/vise grips to hold the pulley loosen it and pull the fan and shroud together. If you see in my video I placed a piece of cardboard on the radiator mostly to keep from tearing up my knuckles and preventing damage to it. The bolt in the fan isn’t super tight so it doesn’t take hulk strength to break it lose. Take a picture of your belt routing, remove the belt, remove one pulley in front of the pump and your ready to pull the pump. Count your bolt holes on your new pump, 2 of them are hard to see, and I can’t remember how many hold it in place. Change your change over valve with the shroud off, just easier.
@@drsoot9760 THANKS SO FAR. Im going to tackle this soon, QUESTION, Can i get the parts from Auto zone or Oriellys, Or do you recommend OEM? I read somewhere that somebody said only get the pump from the dealer, but I don't feel like paying dealer over priced pricing lol
My water pump started leaking, so I just did this same job. Replaced both the pump and the change over valve. So now i keep getting p261f and p0299a and p0299b. Before i did the job I was getting absolutely no codes and the truck was driving great. Now I can't get these to go away. Any advise would be greatly apprecieated.
Basically auxiliary coolant pump blocked(p261F) and turbo underboost(p0299), Turbo seems to be working fine until it sets the check trouble codes. You can drive it about 10 miles after clearing the codes, then it goes into limp mode with no turbo. It was running fine up until i replaced the pump. I'm thinking I might have a vacuum issue with the pump? I bought the cheaper Graf pump instead of the oem pump.. @@drsoot9760
That is a possibility. Please don’t take this the wrong way, but you are sure you hooked the lines up correctly after changing the valve? When you removed the vacuum lines did you see any signs of dried coolant? If all that checks out, I would then use a vacuum pump and pull vacuum on the system as a whole and ensure it holds pressure. Typically a faulty change over valve will only affect the water pump and not the entire system. Any type of containment in the vacuum lines will affect the entire system.
@@drsoot9760 There was a little coolant in the line right above the water pump to the change over valve. I checked all the vacuum lines and coolant didn't seem to make it past the change over valve. So I replaced the valve and the vacuum line above the pump.
@@drsoot9760 Just tested the vacuum lines and the larger vacuum line from the changeover valve to the water pump is not holding vacuum at all. Does that sound like the water pump is defective?
Emma O I have seen failure anywhere from 35k miles to 65k miles. Failure meaning it could be external leaking an or leaking back into the vacuum system.
Sure, Film the easy part. Most people just want to know how involved it is to get to that point! People want to see the headache of removing everything out of the way so they can decide whether to have their mechanic do it or DIY
You obviously know what you’re doing but for those of us that don’t wear is of the rest of the video to put the rest of it back together people always assume that other people know all the other bits and pieces that need to be done but I have one certainly don’t don’t know how to getThe fan off don’t know how to get the fan back on should beStep-by-step.
@Dr Soot. I have a 2015 Sprinter, 2500. 2.1L Motor and 172K. I just had the CEL come on, and it pulled the code P261F. That is the code for a "stuck" coolant change over valve I believe from the research i have done. I have not done or started any checks or vacuum tests yet, but wanted to get you advice on where to start. What should I change out. Do you think this is a water pump issue or vacuum change over valve issue
Thanks for posting this! Your time filming and uploading it is appreciate!
Hi what is the name of the valve your change too water pump and what is the other one
You should also pull a vacuum on the water pump carrier housing. There’s a Little aluminum tube mounted behind it, vacuum travels through it into water pump. Oring goes bad and causes leak. If not replaced you’ll be in the same boat. I do this junk constantly.
is there a way to replace that o ring with out taking out the housing?
@@JuanOrtiz-mo8be unfortunately no. The little tube is held on to the back of the housing by two #10 inverted torx. Very stupid design.
Removing the housing isn’t hard, just very time consuming.
@@jordanavila6350 thank you brother
Very very time consuming
Very good tip Jordon. Everyone should follow this tip when diagnosing.
I've noticed lately a lot of the pumps im getting now are remans.
Your are welcome sir. I’m still letting how to video. Easiest I have found is using a 8mm Allen socket that I cut about a 1/4 inch off using a long ratchet.
@drsoot9760 thank you for uploading this video, I've watched a number of other videos on water pump replacements for mercedes sprinters and they all pretty much take the front end off and the fan out, does this not need to be done? I'm changing my pump this week and would love to know as it would save me so much time and headache. Thank you
Hi sir how did you remove fan i have to change my sprinter waterpump
Get a cheap 8mm Allen/hex head socket to fit a 3/8 drive ratchet. Cut a 1/4 inch off of it to insure room between fan and radiator. Unsnap then the shroud push all the way against the engine without breaking. Personally I would put a piece of cardboard against the radiator to keep from damaging. The 8mm bolt is in the center of the fan. Get your ratchet in there then just use a pair of channel lock pliers to hold the fan. Once it’s lose you can pull fan and shroud together.
@@drsoot9760 thank you sir for your reply
FCK me.
Headphones and full volume and still can't hear sht
All these videos and no fan shroud removal videos!
Hi Doc, i just got the diagnosis from my dealer and they want to change the Vacuum Reservoir as well, I did not happen to see any talk of this in your video or the comments, is that also contaminated and need to be replaced? Thank you.
So per Mercedes guidelines for those repairs it does include replacing the vacuum reservoir. But with that being said, after repairing 100+ of those vans, I generally made a judgment call on whether to change them. If I didn’t see any crusty dried antifreeze I would send it. I think I only ended changing 2 of those the entire time.
@@drsoot9760 ok, thank you!
@@drsoot9760 Hi Again, as I went to buy the parts I learned more and got further concerned about how far I should go? They are saying that some pumps are now made without the vacuum attachment so that we forever avoid the leak into the cross over valve and i.e. Vac reservoir. They say that this vacuum system is just for short time the motor takes to warm up. Here in south Florida my motor is warm from the get go. The other thing I learned is that they have made a better “Water Pump Carrier Assembly” I guess for better fit and less leaks? Should we be putting in this updated part as well? Should I get a pump that eliminates the vac parts? I was told it will not throw any codes??? Thank you!
I was only able to install the traditional water pumps per the company I worked for. But I would definitely got that route just to be sure you won’t have the issue again.
I’m doing this now plus a vacuum pump. I am having issues with the 8mm fan bolt. Holding the pulley. Any tips or possibly the part number for the holding tool? Thanks. I have a few of these coming up on top of this one
scott r
Get a cheap 8 mm socket, cut about a 1/4 inch off of it, a longer flex head 3/8 drive ratchet is just what I recommend. I can get you the part number for the holding tool, I made one, if you have a new pump get 2 metal pins and weld them to a thin piece of flat steel as the same placement as the holes in the pulley. Or..... cheap an quick way is get a big pair of channel locks. 😂. That bolt isn't to tight. Change the steal gasket and I normally change the change over valve for the water pump as well.
I have to change the water pump on my 2015 2500 sprinter 4 cylinder 2.1. Does anyone know the torque specs for the pump?
brian miller
German specs:: Goodin tight.
Work on sound and angles but great video man 👍
@Dr Soot. I have a 2015 Sprinter, 2500. 2.1L Motor and 172K. I just had the CEL come on, and it pulled the code P261F. That is the code for a "stuck" coolant change over valve I believe from the research i have done. I have not done or started any checks or vacuum tests yet, but wanted to get you advice on where to start. What should I change out. Do you think this is a water pump issue or vacuum change over valve issue
Christopher Jeffery
Most likely with that code it is the pump and change over valve that controls the water pump. In most cases it doesn’t effect the way the truck runs until it pulls coolant into the vacuum system. Whenever I had that code come up I would change the pump and change over valve.
@@drsoot9760 DO you have any info/video on removing the fan and covers? Whats the best way to do this. I did my whole AC system/Clutch/drire and charged it all myself, so im pretty good with this stuff, just would love some insigt on getting to the water pump
@jeff. Easiest way to get it off is of course move the small hose on top of the shroud, then loosen up the shroud and push it against the motor. The bolt in the front of the fan is an 8mm Allen head. Get you a cheap socket for a 3/8 ratchet, cut about a 1/4 inch off of it so it gives you a little extra clearance between the fan and radiator. A long handled ratchet will make it much easier to. Once you get it in place take some channel locks/vise grips to hold the pulley loosen it and pull the fan and shroud together. If you see in my video I placed a piece of cardboard on the radiator mostly to keep from tearing up my knuckles and preventing damage to it. The bolt in the fan isn’t super tight so it doesn’t take hulk strength to break it lose. Take a picture of your belt routing, remove the belt, remove one pulley in front of the pump and your ready to pull the pump. Count your bolt holes on your new pump, 2 of them are hard to see, and I can’t remember how many hold it in place. Change your change over valve with the shroud off, just easier.
@@drsoot9760 THANKS SO FAR. Im going to tackle this soon, QUESTION, Can i get the parts from Auto zone or Oriellys, Or do you recommend OEM? I read somewhere that somebody said only get the pump from the dealer, but I don't feel like paying dealer over priced pricing lol
Christopher Jeffery.
Honestly I have only ever used OEM parts🤭. I do know they were supposed to have improved the pump to prevent so many failures.
Good job , any info on throtle body removal on 2.1 ? I have a leaking gasket
Emma O
Hopefully will be coming soon, I have 2 leaking. Just waiting on time to do it.
My water pump started leaking, so I just did this same job. Replaced both the pump and the change over valve. So now i keep getting p261f and p0299a and p0299b. Before i did the job I was getting absolutely no codes and the truck was driving great. Now I can't get these to go away. Any advise would be greatly apprecieated.
Tim Luigi
What’s a rough description of the codes that you are getting?
Basically auxiliary coolant pump blocked(p261F) and turbo underboost(p0299), Turbo seems to be working fine until it sets the check trouble codes. You can drive it about 10 miles after clearing the codes, then it goes into limp mode with no turbo. It was running fine up until i replaced the pump. I'm thinking I might have a vacuum issue with the pump? I bought the cheaper Graf pump instead of the oem pump.. @@drsoot9760
That is a possibility. Please don’t take this the wrong way, but you are sure you hooked the lines up correctly after changing the valve? When you removed the vacuum lines did you see any signs of dried coolant? If all that checks out, I would then use a vacuum pump and pull vacuum on the system as a whole and ensure it holds pressure. Typically a faulty change over valve will only affect the water pump and not the entire system. Any type of containment in the vacuum lines will affect the entire system.
@@drsoot9760 There was a little coolant in the line right above the water pump to the change over valve. I checked all the vacuum lines and coolant didn't seem to make it past the change over valve. So I replaced the valve and the vacuum line above the pump.
@@drsoot9760 Just tested the vacuum lines and the larger vacuum line from the changeover valve to the water pump is not holding vacuum at all. Does that sound like the water pump is defective?
What Torque specs did you use on the new pump?
80
10nm on the water pump bolts
thanks for the tips !!
At what millage did the pump fail?
Emma O
I have seen failure anywhere from 35k miles to 65k miles. Failure meaning it could be external leaking an or leaking back into the vacuum system.
Im At 160+k maybe i should just throw a new one on and not wait for it to fail. Hehe
Those numbers seem low
Sure, Film the easy part. Most people just want to know how involved it is to get to that point! People want to see the headache of removing everything out of the way so they can decide whether to have their mechanic do it or DIY
Wish you had how to remove the fan and shroud so I don’t need to take the whole front of the van off. 😆
ruclips.net/video/O3njVpr_784/видео.html How to remove fan&shroud
You obviously know what you’re doing but for those of us that don’t wear is of the rest of the video to put the rest of it back together people always assume that other people know all the other bits and pieces that need to be done but I have one certainly don’t don’t know how to getThe fan off don’t know how to get the fan back on should beStep-by-step.
NO AUDIO!!!! My speakers FULL BLAST. I could hear him fart and bang things but NO VOICE!!
No sound, barely
@Dr Soot. I have a 2015 Sprinter, 2500. 2.1L Motor and 172K. I just had the CEL come on, and it pulled the code P261F. That is the code for a "stuck" coolant change over valve I believe from the research i have done. I have not done or started any checks or vacuum tests yet, but wanted to get you advice on where to start. What should I change out. Do you think this is a water pump issue or vacuum change over valve issue