Couple of hints:1. Wiping with a rag while still wet gets it cleaner. Kind of like preping a car. If you only wet it, some of the junk just relocates.2. Final wipe with isopropyl 91% gets deep. Then one or two coats of adhesion prometer on the polymers gives a better bond. Maybe even on the phosphate. It's onl;y a 20 min. wait to start painting.3. Rustoleum says within an hour or after 24. I base then wait. Next day, Fifteen minutes between colors.4. Rustoleum clear flat--isn't. I contacted them. There is a "Dead Flat." It's in that new shaped can, but it shoots very wide, very fast. Practice to get very light coats. I waited a couple days before doing that.5. Recommended dry is 5-7 days. After the initial dry-to-touch of a couple hours, I set it against the wall next to a heat register for four days. Doesn't really stink.
Yes with rust-o-leum you need to let dry for the 24. I've found that the Krylon dries much more quickly if you let it out in full sun...tends to bake it harder...I my self don't care for the cerocote. When it chips/wares you pretty much have to do a tare down. With paint it's pretty much a touch up and you good to go... Everyone that see my firearms wants me to do theirs and I've had a ton of offers from people to buy then on the spot...My experience is that it up's the value by the many whom enquire
Looks nice. I used 4 colors. Black, hunter green, dark brown, and nutmeg which simulates a sand color. I used painters tape and tore pieces to make a tiger stripe camo right on the black anodized finish. Then painted it with hunter green. Made a stencil out of a piece of cardboard in a tiger stripe pattern and used that to apply the brown and nutmeg. Once I was done I lightly misted the entire rifle with the hunter green and nutmeg to blend all the colors together. Used hair dryer to dry the paint faster. Removed the tape and it was done. Turned out really nice. Standing ten feet from the rifle laying in the grass, it blended very nicely. This rifle is also the one I'll be using to hunt coyotes and other small critters with so camouflage was important imo.
Awesome video there, and love the way it turned out. I put 2 coats of a matte clear after I am finished and it really helps the paint job look smoother and keeps it from wearing off so fast. Another thing, If you try to start your paint 'stroke' away from the rifle, rather than right on top of it, you won't have so many stray dots of paint.
i love doing camo paint on my rifles, but after having to remove the old paint, i only stick to vinyl wraps that can be removed. too much of a paint to remove the old paint. but i do love painting my rifles. so many options and you can say you did it yourself and it makes it all the more better.
I rattle can all my rifles, same paint. But I finish it off with the krylon matte clear finish. Works great less wear and tear on the pant especially on the pistol grip
The one problem I had with Rustoleum was on the extension. Once painted the B5 SOPMOD and LMT SOPMOD stocks would not slide over the extension freely. I had to put a mag in the lower and use my foot as a brace on the mag using my body weight and pull the stock off. I removed most of the paint on the extension to allow for the stock to ride freely in all positions.
Did you remove any parts or internals? I would think just throwing paint on the rifle could cause some sort of malfunction or interfere with the operation of it
Aluben Only the BCG. We closed the dust cover and didn't spray into the mag well. The dust cover seals off well enough that there is probably no need to remove the BCG, but we did just be safe. The amount of paint that might get through the dust cover is so small it wouldn't have any effect on the function and it would be worn off after the first magazine is shot through the rifle.
wouldn't let me tag you. But did the gun come with that delta ring or did you add it extra. looks bad ass and way easier than mine to take the handguards off. Is it a BCM and you can put one on an ar from a different manufacturer? sorry lol I'm new to ar's. I recently bought one. I'm usually an ak guy
Always Armed88 That ring isn't technically a delta ring per my understanding, but it does look like one. That is just how the LaRue rail mounts to the upper. This is a complete BCM upper, the rail has not been changed out.
Hey I know this is older video but do you need to tape off the gas block I have a shaved fsb under my bcm kmr just wanted to know if I needed to cover it before painting. Thanks
Ive always been told to avoid brakleening plastic/poly stuff, but obviously Ive been misinformed...nice job, thanks for the tips and for easing my mind regarding the use of brakleen.
If you want to do this pattern and make it look like Vietnam tiger stripe do tan first then brown then green I did it go hen I was a little kid on my airsoft 416 and I made templates with an exacto knife and cut out patterns from masking tape that was overlapping and it was stuck to parchment paper so I made stickers essentially and covered up the spots that I wanted to keep the color as I did the coats for different colors black can also be used and I did that
@@Justbase I use it on my upper, while it's detached from my lower. I usually use the regular gun cleaning stuff, but have used brake cleaner for heavy stuff.
Have y'all been seeing this grey color being used for urban tactical? Magpul, B5 Systems and another company are pushing greys in a little different shaded tones.
In a sport setting where your not pumping that much lead and can cool down when need probably wouldn't matter to much but in a battle situation barrel will get to hot with a layer of paint over it and warp it and destroy your gad block
Nice job...that's one of the few times I've seen people use ODG first instead of brown. I may use the green first on mine also. It'll be my first time so I'm going to "practice" on my Rock River before painting my D.Defense. Anyway, great job and keep the videos coming.
at the start of the video you have an AR that is awesome looking. How did you paint it, because it looks so different from the one you paint in the video. Could you give me some instructions on how to get mine to look like the one at the beginning???
I painted my savage .22 with krylon. Cleaned and oiled it time and time again and ive had little wear on the paint. No paint comes off with solvent either. Not that ive noticed anyway
"nothing stands out more than a black rifle in the woods" but a reflective red optic lens is a close second. My optic has the same type of lens. Its a bushnell rds and there currently isn't a "killflash" for it on the market. At least not that I could find. Any homemade recipes for something like that?
looks good. so im thinking about painting a tatical shotgun, but the question is the barrel will needed to be painted what do you this about that? would it get to hot for the paint?
I'm in the processing of building an AR from scratch, so this may be a dumb question but would you still recommend spraying it down with the brake cleaner? All parts are brand new (stripped upper/lower) and new rail. I also plan to paint before I add the upper and lower kits for the contrast...Oh and do you prefer krylon over rustoleum or does it not matter?
Yes, most parts, especially when new, come with at least a light coat, some a heavy coat, of oil on them. Always degrease before painting even if new. Krylon vs Rustoleum, I'd call it a wash, pick which one you like and go with it. Some may say Krylon isn't as good, but I can't say.
Did you use any sealer after you were done? I know that there are non-glare sealers that might make the paint job even more durable. Thank you for the informative and helpful video.
Negative. Even the matte and "non-glare" clear coats still have some level of sheen to them. We don't care about the paint enough to feel a need to preserve it. We would just re-paint when we feel it's needed.
The first coat looks like the Rustoleum Army green, then it looks like you covered it with the deep forest green , there is no Rustoleum OD Green, so could you tell which one you used,or what you did for to the base color. Because it most definitely change from the Base coat at the start and then when you went to laying it down the straw strips it was dark green. Thanks, trying to use y'all's technique
CLP Powder Blast will crinkle paint up and flake it off in seconds. I used it to strip an AR that I tested a little satin spray paint on (Looks like crap. Dont use it). Really easy to strip if you have an air compressor to blow it all off.
awesome. I have a DPMS LR 308 I want to camo and I'm going to use your method to get it done. Also, near the end it looks like you use a tan color, did you or is that some other light color other than OD green and Brown?
James Lee On the rifle shown painted in this video we used 3 colors. Tan, OD green, and a Earth Brown. In the end we went over all that again with the OD green.
Wow, thats a really good job, I have a few questions though. Is that a heater pointing towards the gun to speed up the drying process? Also how long did you wait in between the de-greasing and all of the coats of paint?
Yes, that is a heater, but no it's not for the drying process. This paint job was done in the midwest in Jan (Winter) so the heater is only there to raise the room temp up to painting temps (consult can for painting temps). Also, use heater at your own risk, paint is flamable. We waited 15-20 or so after degreasing. Just long enough to make sure everything was dry. Paint coats were 5-10min inbetween. Consult can for that info too.
+Joe Schmoe You can do anything. Yes, clearcoat will help. However, even a matte clear coat will have some sheen to it which is counterproductive to camo painting your rifle.
Highjak86 Clear coat probably wasn't the right word. I'm thinking more of something that will keep it looking good instead of chipping like crazy when its been rad hard.
Does the eject port door keep the paint out of the internals or do you mask off any inside the door? Planning on painting mine and dont' want to get in to a "oh crap, I didn't realize paint would get in there. . . . " situation. leave bolt and all internals in place, close door, mask magwell or insert mag, and dont shoot paint into the barrel... Sound about right? Any further masking is just to keep from painting parts that you prefer not to have painted, correct?
cool. thank you. very anxious to paint it but hesitant to make sure I have a good game plan and cover all bases.. Painted my tournament style paintball marker a couple years ago.. and turned out good, but on the outside it has less moving parts that the AR. this spring the AR will probably get some paint now. :)
Great video. Was wondering if you guys had any suggestions on grey paint. Was thinking about doing an urban camo scheme on my EBR using light and dark grey tones.
I don't believe there are many manufacturers that make a grey in their flat camo series, but any flat grey paint should work for what you're looking for.
Highjak86 Cheers. I noticed that since you used the khaki brown last, it really brightened the gun up. Would you suggest using khaki first, THEN earth brown if the desired look is more dark:?
Very nice job guys. Looks real good. Like you said, if you ever plan on selling your rifle, probably best not to paint it. Good advice for someone about to rattle can their AR or AK.
I have had better camo patterns turn out, when starting with a light color base coat (white, sand, tan) then adding the darker shades, as you layer in your patterns. And practice before painting. Test it all out, on a scrape piece of card board. You may discover your stencil is to thick or thin, and you can replace it. And test spray from different distances for a variety of effects, from detailed lines, to a misty foggy layer.
AIRBORNE916 Brake cleaner is not too strong and dries extremely fast. I also hit it with compressed air and it dries in seconds. It's really great stuff.
I've never seen a flash suppressor quite like the one on the rifle you used to demonstrate the three color camo paint job. What and where did you get the flash suppressor? Thank you.
So I have a ar15-22 which is an ar body but shoots 22s and I was wondering if I would do anything differently with painting it or would I just do the same steps? Sorry if it's a dumb question but I feel like I had to ask
Grease, no. Oil, potentially. The only real reason to oil the outside of any metal firearm is to remove any water or moisture. Once that is off there really is no need to apply any unless your safe is improperly setup to control humidity.
No, we visually know what rail section the important parts (optics) go if we need to take them off and put them back on. You could do that, but it's extra work for little reason in my opinion. Plus you're creating an area where paint with chip easier.
Hey guys, great tutorial! The paint job looks great, but I was wondering if the spray paint affected the texture of the rifle? In other words, is the gun left feeling sticky or anything like that?
So you degreaser it and cleaned it with brake cleaner but you blew it off with a compressor witch expels oil and dirt and humidity through the house ...?
I used that flat camo paint for a multicam scheme on a bunch of my mags and they look insane. The only problem I have with it is that it wears so quickly. The wear actually looks really nice, but the lack of durability is steering me toward duracoating the rest of them
Hi. Great stuff! Do you have a video of how you did the first rifle, really like that one from your displaying it here? Also, do you ever clear coat after the camo to give a bit more wear resistance? TIA
Always start with dark then move to lighter colors for depth perseiption then mist &touch up bck w/ darkest. Final coat w/ No Gloss clear make it hold up a lot Better!
Sell a rifle!!! That's crazy! Every gun owner knows that when you buy a (great) rifle you and it are bond for life.....till it dies or till you die. Lol. Almost like the bond in Full Metal Jacket where they even sleep with the weapon. HahahaNice paint job that looks awesome!
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Couple of hints:1. Wiping with a rag while still wet gets it cleaner. Kind of like preping a car. If you only wet it, some of the junk just relocates.2. Final wipe with isopropyl 91% gets deep. Then one or two coats of adhesion prometer on the polymers gives a better bond. Maybe even on the phosphate. It's onl;y a 20 min. wait to start painting.3. Rustoleum says within an hour or after 24. I base then wait. Next day, Fifteen minutes between colors.4. Rustoleum clear flat--isn't. I contacted them. There is a "Dead Flat." It's in that new shaped can, but it shoots very wide, very fast. Practice to get very light coats. I waited a couple days before doing that.5. Recommended dry is 5-7 days. After the initial dry-to-touch of a couple hours, I set it against the wall next to a heat register for four days. Doesn't really stink.
Yes with rust-o-leum you need to let dry for the 24. I've found that the Krylon dries much more quickly if you let it out in full sun...tends to bake it harder...I my self don't care for the cerocote. When it chips/wares you pretty much have to do a tare down. With paint it's pretty much a touch up and you good to go...
Everyone that see my firearms wants me to do theirs and I've had a ton of offers from people to buy then on the spot...My experience is that it up's the value by the many whom enquire
Good lord dude, you're spray painting a rifle... not painting a new lambo.
Looks nice. I used 4 colors. Black, hunter green, dark brown, and nutmeg which simulates a sand color. I used painters tape and tore pieces to make a tiger stripe camo right on the black anodized finish. Then painted it with hunter green. Made a stencil out of a piece of cardboard in a tiger stripe pattern and used that to apply the brown and nutmeg. Once I was done I lightly misted the entire rifle with the hunter green and nutmeg to blend all the colors together. Used hair dryer to dry the paint faster. Removed the tape and it was done. Turned out really nice. Standing ten feet from the rifle laying in the grass, it blended very nicely. This rifle is also the one I'll be using to hunt coyotes and other small critters with so camouflage was important imo.
Heat your rattle cans in a bucket of hot water, especially in winter. No runs and it flashes a little faster.
porksboy took me five damn minutes to figure out wtf a rattle can was
@@jjmjesse22 lol
Nice job. I love the way a well used, painted rifle looks. Gives the gun character.
Awesome video there, and love the way it turned out.
I put 2 coats of a matte clear after I am finished and it really helps the paint job look smoother and keeps it from wearing off so fast. Another thing, If you try to start your paint 'stroke' away from the rifle, rather than right on top of it, you won't have so many stray dots of paint.
I do love the video and watch all of them for ideas and experience. I just wanted to jokingly say the 2002 called and wanted their fore rails back.
That turned out AWESOME!
i love doing camo paint on my rifles, but after having to remove the old paint, i only stick to vinyl wraps that can be removed. too much of a paint to remove the old paint. but i do love painting my rifles. so many options and you can say you did it yourself and it makes it all the more better.
I rattle can all my rifles, same paint. But I finish it off with the krylon matte clear finish. Works great less wear and tear on the pant especially on the pistol grip
The one problem I had with Rustoleum was on the extension. Once painted the B5 SOPMOD and LMT SOPMOD stocks would not slide over the extension freely. I had to put a mag in the lower and use my foot as a brace on the mag using my body weight and pull the stock off. I removed most of the paint on the extension to allow for the stock to ride freely in all positions.
What's stopping paint from leaking into the dust cover, charging handle, mag release, etc?
Tolerance. All of these components seal pretty tight. It's a non-issue.
Highjak86 Thanks for the reply highjak.
Excellent job! Looks great.
Want !!!
Lots of you asked for it so here it is! AR15 camo paint jobs!
Did you remove any parts or internals? I would think just throwing paint on the rifle could cause some sort of malfunction or interfere with the operation of it
Aluben Only the BCG. We closed the dust cover and didn't spray into the mag well. The dust cover seals off well enough that there is probably no need to remove the BCG, but we did just be safe. The amount of paint that might get through the dust cover is so small it wouldn't have any effect on the function and it would be worn off after the first magazine is shot through the rifle.
wouldn't let me tag you. But did the gun come with that delta ring or did you add it extra. looks bad ass and way easier than mine to take the handguards off. Is it a BCM and you can put one on an ar from a different manufacturer? sorry lol I'm new to ar's. I recently bought one. I'm usually an ak guy
Always Armed88 That ring isn't technically a delta ring per my understanding, but it does look like one. That is just how the LaRue rail mounts to the upper. This is a complete BCM upper, the rail has not been changed out.
Hey I know this is older video but do you need to tape off the gas block I have a shaved fsb under my bcm kmr just wanted to know if I needed to cover it before painting. Thanks
Ive always been told to avoid brakleening plastic/poly stuff, but obviously Ive been misinformed...nice job, thanks for the tips and for easing my mind regarding the use of brakleen.
If you want to do this pattern and make it look like Vietnam tiger stripe do tan first then brown then green I did it go hen I was a little kid on my airsoft 416 and I made templates with an exacto knife and cut out patterns from masking tape that was overlapping and it was stuck to parchment paper so I made stickers essentially and covered up the spots that I wanted to keep the color as I did the coats for different colors black can also be used and I did that
Brake clean is a terrible choice for pre-paint cleaning.
yeah its also a terrible choice to spray your rubber and plastic with. SMH. 50/50 H2O/IPA.
hotrodsather. Why? I've had good luck with it for 20 years. No residue, and drys quickly. I also use air to dry after rinsing.
I always use alcohol
@@jhutch1470 it dissolves more than you'd like, like the wax that keeps your handgrip's rubber flexible.
@@Justbase I use it on my upper, while it's detached from my lower. I usually use the regular gun cleaning stuff, but have used brake cleaner for heavy stuff.
Make sure you spray the entire bottle of brake clean with as little ventilation as possible.
Love the tiger stripe like appearance. Nice how to video.
yeah i agree
Man this is phenomenal. I want to paint my AR out of practicality and not for a fashion statement and this looks like it's the ticket!
Don't lie. You want to spray paint it and be a LARPer just like the rest of us.
Great video! Thx for sharing!
There is a satin you can protect the paint job.
Thx William
good advise on the resell value.
Next time, after your base coat, wrap twine around your rifle and mags in different directions and layers.
Turned out real nice guys.
Nice paint job!
Have y'all been seeing this grey color being used for urban tactical? Magpul, B5 Systems and another company are pushing greys in a little different shaded tones.
Great how to video on painting guys.
In a sport setting where your not pumping that much lead and can cool down when need probably wouldn't matter to much but in a battle situation barrel will get to hot with a layer of paint over it and warp it and destroy your gad block
Nice, I use a clear matt coat finish after and it seems to greatly reduce a lot of normal wear and tear...
That looks awesome!! Good work and video!
Nice job bro, excellent breakdown can't wait to upgrade my furniture for my S&W M&P-15
Sweet guys! I'm fixin to build another AR and I think I'm going to Cerakote it before I assemble it and see what I think, cool vid!
This kind of thing is perfect for Frankengun builds.
Very nice, simple and easy as well. Thank you for helping me make up my mind.
Nice job...that's one of the few times I've seen people use ODG first instead of brown. I may use the green first on mine also. It'll be my first time so I'm going to "practice" on my Rock River before painting my D.Defense. Anyway, great job and keep the videos coming.
for next time, spray the rifle with some adhesive promoter and allow to set before a primer coat. Helps the paint stick alot better.
Great job. Looks good.
i want the camo paint job of the gun in the back in 8:37! can u tell me how to do that one
Great video fellas! Wanting to paint mine now.
Awesome job, I really like the way it turned out
Good to see you guys got your country's flag there
Can you use rubbing alcohol other than brake cleaner
yes
Nice job fellas...think bout doing my at pistol 300 blkout
No joke - these turned out really well! You've made me feel brave enough to do mine - thanks for sharing!
If you clear coat it with a matte clear or satin clear it won’t wear off or scratch
at the start of the video you have an AR that is awesome looking. How did you paint it, because it looks so different from the one you paint in the video. Could you give me some instructions on how to get mine to look like the one at the beginning???
We used the exact same process as described in the intro. We just used different overlays. Pine, sticks, and leaves.
how does that paint hold up to cleaning solvent and oil like clp, hope's , etc.,,?
I painted my savage .22 with krylon. Cleaned and oiled it time and time again and ive had little wear on the paint. No paint comes off with solvent either. Not that ive noticed anyway
that would be pretty nice for the woods in deer season.
Just found your channel recently. Great content! Thanks so much for sharing!
Nice work looking good.
Wow nice work fellas, thanks for the info!
Thanks for the great video guys just finished painting mine. Your advice really came in handy much appreciated
"nothing stands out more than a black rifle in the woods" but a reflective red optic lens is a close second. My optic has the same type of lens. Its a bushnell rds and there currently isn't a "killflash" for it on the market. At least not that I could find. Any homemade recipes for something like that?
find screen door mesh cut it to size and put it between the glass and lens cap
clever. thanks!
looks good. so im thinking about painting a tatical shotgun, but the question is the barrel will needed to be painted what do you this about that? would it get to hot for the paint?
Great job fellas! Been a subscriber for quite a while now. Always good stuff, can't wait for more. Stay safe and take care.
We appreciate it, Symtex!
I'm in the processing of building an AR from scratch, so this may be a dumb question but would you still recommend spraying it down with the brake cleaner? All parts are brand new (stripped upper/lower) and new rail. I also plan to paint before I add the upper and lower kits for the contrast...Oh and do you prefer krylon over rustoleum or does it not matter?
Yes, most parts, especially when new, come with at least a light coat, some a heavy coat, of oil on them. Always degrease before painting even if new. Krylon vs Rustoleum, I'd call it a wash, pick which one you like and go with it. Some may say Krylon isn't as good, but I can't say.
Did you use any sealer after you were done? I know that there are non-glare sealers that might make the paint job even more durable. Thank you for the informative and helpful video.
Negative. Even the matte and "non-glare" clear coats still have some level of sheen to them. We don't care about the paint enough to feel a need to preserve it. We would just re-paint when we feel it's needed.
The first coat looks like the Rustoleum Army green, then it looks like you covered it with the deep forest green , there is no Rustoleum OD Green, so could you tell which one you used,or what you did for to the base color. Because it most definitely change from the Base coat at the start and then when you went to laying it down the straw strips it was dark green.
Thanks, trying to use y'all's technique
Great Video,How do I get the white haze off my rifle that the brake cleaner left?
thats some great ingenuity. well done!
i didnt see you guys take off the the rear butt stock pad to paint the tube that the rear butt pad with button where it collapses
Correct. We didn't show removal of the buttpad. We also didn't remove the stock to paint the rear of the buffer tube.
Ok, my question is this. Will cleaning solvents strip the pain away? Like Hopes and such?
yes
CLP Powder Blast will crinkle paint up and flake it off in seconds. I used it to strip an AR that I tested a little satin spray paint on (Looks like crap. Dont use it). Really easy to strip if you have an air compressor to blow it all off.
could you use a flat matte to cover the paint and keep it pristine looking longer????
Yep. Some guys like to use a clear coat afterwards. We don't care that much.
awesome. I have a DPMS LR 308 I want to camo and I'm going to use your method to get it done. Also, near the end it looks like you use a tan color, did you or is that some other light color other than OD green and Brown?
James Lee On the rifle shown painted in this video we used 3 colors. Tan, OD green, and a Earth Brown. In the end we went over all that again with the OD green.
Wow, thats a really good job, I have a few questions though. Is that a heater pointing towards the gun to speed up the drying process? Also how long did you wait in between the de-greasing and all of the coats of paint?
Yes, that is a heater, but no it's not for the drying process. This paint job was done in the midwest in Jan (Winter) so the heater is only there to raise the room temp up to painting temps (consult can for painting temps). Also, use heater at your own risk, paint is flamable.
We waited 15-20 or so after degreasing. Just long enough to make sure everything was dry.
Paint coats were 5-10min inbetween. Consult can for that info too.
Thanks for impressive reply speed. I hope these answers help many other people too, thanks.
Great job the almost not Tiger stripe job, but looks very nice.
do you recommend any clear coat once painting is complete?
Looks great.
Could you put some kind of clear coat over it to helo keep the integrity of the paint?
+Joe Schmoe You can do anything. Yes, clearcoat will help. However, even a matte clear coat will have some sheen to it which is counterproductive to camo painting your rifle.
Highjak86 Clear coat probably wasn't the right word. I'm thinking more of something that will keep it looking good instead of chipping like crazy when its been rad hard.
Does the eject port door keep the paint out of the internals or do you mask off any inside the door?
Planning on painting mine and dont' want to get in to a "oh crap, I didn't realize paint would get in there. . . . " situation. leave bolt and all internals in place, close door, mask magwell or insert mag, and dont shoot paint into the barrel...
Sound about right? Any further masking is just to keep from painting parts that you prefer not to have painted, correct?
+JeremyF4i It keep pretty much all of the paint out. We removed the BCG, but did not mask it inside.
cool. thank you. very anxious to paint it but hesitant to make sure I have a good game plan and cover all bases.. Painted my tournament style paintball marker a couple years ago.. and turned out good, but on the outside it has less moving parts that the AR. this spring the AR will probably get some paint now. :)
cool video .....how does the paint hold up on the barrel when it gets hot ??? ive had barrel's smoking hot be for ??
Nice job, much better than Dura-coat
Great video. Was wondering if you guys had any suggestions on grey paint. Was thinking about doing an urban camo scheme on my EBR using light and dark grey tones.
I don't believe there are many manufacturers that make a grey in their flat camo series, but any flat grey paint should work for what you're looking for.
Thanks, appreciate the response.
What is the third colour you used mate? First was OD, then Earth Brown, followed by???? Great looking gun, painting mine soon. Cheers.
The third color was a khaki or coyote brown. Can't remember exactly.
Highjak86 Cheers. I noticed that since you used the khaki brown last, it really brightened the gun up. Would you suggest using khaki first, THEN earth brown if the desired look is more dark:?
Very nice job guys. Looks real good. Like you said, if you ever plan on selling your rifle, probably best not to paint it. Good advice for someone about to rattle can their AR or AK.
I have had better camo patterns turn out, when starting with a light color base coat (white, sand, tan) then adding the darker shades, as you layer in your patterns. And practice before painting. Test it all out, on a scrape piece of card board. You may discover your stencil is to thick or thin, and you can replace it. And test spray from different distances for a variety of effects, from detailed lines, to a misty foggy layer.
How many base coats did you put on before spraying the other colors? Overall looks good.
We usually do 3 or so light coats of the base color.
im surprised that break cleaner didn't melt your stock/pistol grip.
Oh, it's not that strong at all. Acid might do that.
AIRBORNE916 Brake cleaner is not too strong and dries extremely fast. I also hit it with compressed air and it dries in seconds. It's really great stuff.
I've never seen a flash suppressor quite like the one on the rifle you used to demonstrate the three color camo paint job. What and where did you get the flash suppressor? Thank you.
Awesome job
So I have a ar15-22 which is an ar body but shoots 22s and I was wondering if I would do anything differently with painting it or would I just do the same steps? Sorry if it's a dumb question but I feel like I had to ask
The same steps should apply, but put a piece of tape over you bolt as most 22LR ARs don't have a dust cover.
Can you grease your barrel/other parts after the painting process is done, in order to prevent rusting, or is the paint going to help do that?
There is no reason to grease the exterior of an AR15.
What about on a bolt action rifle such as a Remington .270?
Grease, no. Oil, potentially. The only real reason to oil the outside of any metal firearm is to remove any water or moisture. Once that is off there really is no need to apply any unless your safe is improperly setup to control humidity.
Gun painting
Great vid, lads- well done
Did you cover up the rail numbers with tape? Do you suggest it?
No, we visually know what rail section the important parts (optics) go if we need to take them off and put them back on. You could do that, but it's extra work for little reason in my opinion. Plus you're creating an area where paint with chip easier.
Thanks for the quick response! Will take tips into account! God bless.
Hey guys, great tutorial! The paint job looks great, but I was wondering if the spray paint affected the texture of the rifle? In other words, is the gun left feeling sticky or anything like that?
Until it fully cures yes, it will be a bit tacky. After it's finished there is no tacky feeling left over.
So you degreaser it and cleaned it with brake cleaner but you blew it off with a compressor witch expels oil and dirt and humidity through the house ...?
+chrissilliman It's not the Mona Lisa.
I used that flat camo paint for a multicam scheme on a bunch of my mags and they look insane. The only problem I have with it is that it wears so quickly. The wear actually looks really nice, but the lack of durability is steering me toward duracoating the rest of them
Purpose of rattle can camo is if you change environments and need a different color scheme but the same rifle
Did paint get into the barrel through the open muzzle break?
what colors did you use beside od green and earth brown I seen a lighter one you use, what color was that?
I think it's a flat dark earth.
Matte khaki
Hi. Great stuff! Do you have a video of how you did the first rifle, really like that one from your displaying it here? Also, do you ever clear coat after the camo to give a bit more wear resistance? TIA
Interested in what you used for stencils on the first gun as well as the rattle can/ colors, order, etc. Thanks!
Always start with dark then move to lighter colors for depth perseiption then mist &touch up bck w/ darkest. Final coat w/ No Gloss clear make it hold up a lot Better!
Did you BUY the grass at Walmart, or was it growing in the parking lot? :P
I want to do this to a remington 700 type rifle. Do I need to remove the trigger assembly?
Was your rifle that you were holding at the beginning a PCM also?
+LB Fishing PCM? You mean BCM?
+Highjak86 I meant BCM
+LB Fishing Both are BCM guns.
Ok. Thx
Just curious, you said rustoleum but the can's are kylon. Have you used both? If so, which one is better?
Great video, quick question tho, after I do the paint job on my rifle, does it affect the paint if I frog lube the gun?
what were the three colors you used? I heard the earth brown, and OD green, but what was the third you used?
4 years late, but it's matte khaki
Also how long will it last excluding high traffic areas
Depends on the user and how it's treated really.
Sell a rifle!!! That's crazy! Every gun owner knows that when you buy a (great) rifle you and it are bond for life.....till it dies or till you die. Lol. Almost like the bond in Full Metal Jacket where they even sleep with the weapon. HahahaNice paint job that looks awesome!
Is it a 12" DD rail on the first gun?
Yes
Highjak86 what is the rail on the rifle being painted? looks similar to a mk12 rail from kac... i dig it and could put one on my mk12 clone upper.
LaRue 12"
Thank you bub
It's hilarious how little thought and preparation went into this duracoating vs a lot of other videos, but it turned out really awesome! Looks great
Looks awesome😃