Awesome video, your English is good! And for everyone judging his English and how he made the video, there is not a lot of people out there that will address the battery problems and make a video about it so just be thankful.
Nice video. I've just bought battery adapter. In Ukraine it costs appox. $5. So I've decided not to experiment. But not I see I can put 675 battery in my Olympus OM-1 without any problems. A bit late but... still helpful info. Thanks! P.S. and your English is very-very good! Don't worry :)
I also use the 675 zinc air for my Olympus OM-1. I bought a cheap O ring kit from Harbor Freight. I just place an O ring around the battery and there you have it. You can get that kit very cheap, and continue to use the same O ring for years. It obviously wouldn’t work with the Yashica. But, it also works with many Super 8mm cameras.
Personally I prefer using the "MR9" adapter - it takes SR44 batteries and corrects the voltage (down from 1.5v). SR44's last significantly longer than the hearing aid batteries and the cost is similar. -- a pack of 5 SR44's costs me around $5. The zinc air batteries go dead after several weeks of inactivity, so if you put your camera on the shelf for a while, expect to change the battery every time with a zinc air. I have an "occasional use" Olympus OM-1 which still has a good battery after 5 years (very occasional use).
This might annoy the purists, but I actually use a small digital camera as a sort of light meter. If I set this up to get a perfectly exposed photo, I can just transfer the aperture and shutter speed over to an old manual camera, and this seems to work pretty well. Ideally you want to use the same focal length on both cameras, and probably stick to a metering mode which averages across the entire sensor. Avoid spot metering.
If I'm going to adjust my ISO to compensate for the additional voltage, would I make it higher or lower? Seems like lower (ie less sensitive to light) makes sense if the additional voltage is causing the meter to read more light than there actually is.
If you have another newer light meter for a reference, compare your reading using the PX625a with the exposure reading for the reference meter. Then adjust the iso setting on your camera using the PX625a to get the same setting. You may find that the difference is less than half a stop. I haven't every seen where anyone ever documented the effect of the voltage difference. I used to just use the alkaline PX625a in my Nikomat FTN after the mercury battery was not obtainable and the pictures always looked well exposed so I suspect it is a very small effect.
From experience, I can tell you to stay away from the MR-9 Voltage adapters as they don't work. I have three, two bought from Thailand and one from Japan. You are supposed to use Silver Oxide SR43 1.55V batteries and in theory, the MR-9 Voltage adapter should bring down the voltage to 1.35V. They don't work, I get 1.544V on average, not much of a voltage drop. Will be buying the 625 batteries, 1.4V should work fine.
I've seen people recommending the MR-9 adapter from Smallbattery Company ( www.smallbattery.company.org.uk/sbc_mr9_adapter.htm ). I don't know though, it might be the same.
As I understand it, the MR-9 adapter doesn't convert the voltage at all. It's simply an adapter to make the battery the same physical size as the PX625 battery it replaces. If you use a silver oxide battery (SR44 I think) then the voltage will be too high (1.55V), and the camera will think there is too much light when it is perfectly exposed. To compensate for this you have to select an ISO setting that is less than that of the film. So, for example, if you fit an ISO 400 film, but tell the camera you are using ISO 200 film, then the camera will think it needs more light - enough to expose the less sensitive ISO 200 film - so either open the shutter for longer, or use a wider aperture, and this will prevent the under exposure you would otherwise get. The reason silver oxide SR44 batteries are used is because there output voltage is relatively stable, so even if the output voltage is wrong, it is at least consistently wrong. The voltage from alkaline batteries, on the other hand, is not stable, and falls dramatically over its lifetime, so you would need to keep adjusting the ISO setting. Well that's the theory anyway. I will find out if it works when my MR-9 adapter turns up, so I can fit an SR44 to my Yashica Minister D. Fingers crossed.
The voltage changes when the meter is on. You cannot read it with just a multi meter. Are you sure you have the electronic adapter one not just a holder.
Informative video but why not find the necessary tools before you start shooting the video as well as checking in a dictionary the English word for copper. Then the video runs smoothly and will be liked more
Awesome video, your English is good!
And for everyone judging his English and how he made the video, there is not a lot of people out there that will address the battery problems and make a video about it so just be thankful.
Nice video. I've just bought battery adapter. In Ukraine it costs appox. $5. So I've decided not to experiment. But not I see I can put 675 battery in my Olympus OM-1 without any problems. A bit late but... still helpful info. Thanks!
P.S. and your English is very-very good! Don't worry :)
А де ти придбав адаптер в Україні?
Very helpful, and your English is good enough, no need to apologize.
I also use the 675 zinc air for my Olympus OM-1. I bought a cheap O ring kit from Harbor Freight. I just place an O ring around the battery and there you have it. You can get that kit very cheap, and continue to use the same O ring for years. It obviously wouldn’t work with the Yashica. But, it also works with many Super 8mm cameras.
CS B do you just put tho O ring around the battery and pop it in?
The copper wire is brilliant! I bet you could use some copper wire formed in a spring to work in the Yashica electro 35 models. Thanks man.
I think that the picture with the 1.5 V battery will be underexposed because the meter think that is more light
Drill out a Px625 and put a 675za battery into it, it works on my 124G perfectly.
how?
Drill out?
It may make it fit but how can it change the voltage?
I like your video very much. Will try your idea on my Konica Auto S2. Thank you Elvis.
LOVED THE WIRE HACK !!!!
Personally I prefer using the "MR9" adapter - it takes SR44 batteries and corrects the voltage (down from 1.5v). SR44's last significantly longer than the hearing aid batteries and the cost is similar. -- a pack of 5 SR44's costs me around $5.
The zinc air batteries go dead after several weeks of inactivity, so if you put your camera on the shelf for a while, expect to change the battery every time with a zinc air. I have an "occasional use" Olympus OM-1 which still has a good battery after 5 years (very occasional use).
Do you know what it corrects down to? I'm looking to get down to 1.35v for a spot meter.
@@deckert7 the MR9 corrects the voltage of 1.5v down to the expected voltage of 1.3v.
The same adapter and battery also good for Leica M5 .
Good suggestion, thank you
Forget the batteries, use sunny 16 rule. After a while you'll get good at it. Handheld meters like a twin mate are great too.
This might annoy the purists, but I actually use a small digital camera as a sort of light meter. If I set this up to get a perfectly exposed photo, I can just transfer the aperture and shutter speed over to an old manual camera, and this seems to work pretty well. Ideally you want to use the same focal length on both cameras, and probably stick to a metering mode which averages across the entire sensor. Avoid spot metering.
Those battery caps were designed to be opened with coins. Everybody had change (cash) on them back then.
its a useful video but it did not need to be 16min long, lol. Thank you either way.
Do you know the specific battery for canon FTb ql. The original one its PX625 13V
Are you Ed Pavez Goye?? Thx for this!
If I'm going to adjust my ISO to compensate for the additional voltage, would I make it higher or lower? Seems like lower (ie less sensitive to light) makes sense if the additional voltage is causing the meter to read more light than there actually is.
If you have another newer light meter for a reference, compare your reading using the PX625a with the exposure reading for the reference meter. Then adjust the iso setting on your camera using the PX625a to get the same setting. You may find that the difference is less than half a stop. I haven't every seen where anyone ever documented the effect of the voltage difference. I used to just use the alkaline PX625a in my Nikomat FTN after the mercury battery was not obtainable and the pictures always looked well exposed so I suspect it is a very small effect.
If you use a 1.5 volt battery and the meter reads the scene as having more light then you will underexpose your image.
thanks for the video. can you tell me the diameter of the wire you use? thank you
I THINK THATS A VERY IMPORTANT POINT
Hi Elvis, where can I find the adapter for the Olympus om-1? I have the batteries but not the adapter.. thanks for the video
Where do you buy the batteries for the Olympus camera?
Silver oxide on Amazon
Amazon silver oxide is best don't use alkalines
alan read does that battery fit without mods?
Thank you for the advice. What about the WeinCell MRB625, which has 1.35V? Did you try it?
This battery should also work. But it is very expensive (approx. 8 Euro)
Please use Varta px625 which are still available.
yes available but 1.5 V
What about Practika LTL?
На сколько хватает такой батарейки?
where can i buy this
It's much easier and 100 cheaper to make it by yourself from the piece of copper wire.
Silver oxide batteries are best don't use alkalines
From experience, I can tell you to stay away from the MR-9 Voltage adapters as they don't work. I have three, two bought from Thailand and one from Japan. You are supposed to use Silver Oxide SR43 1.55V batteries and in theory, the MR-9 Voltage adapter should bring down the voltage to 1.35V. They don't work, I get 1.544V on average, not much of a voltage drop. Will be buying the 625 batteries, 1.4V should work fine.
I've seen people recommending the MR-9 adapter from Smallbattery Company ( www.smallbattery.company.org.uk/sbc_mr9_adapter.htm ). I don't know though, it might be the same.
As I understand it, the MR-9 adapter doesn't convert the voltage at all. It's simply an adapter to make the battery the same physical size as the PX625 battery it replaces. If you use a silver oxide battery (SR44 I think) then the voltage will be too high (1.55V), and the camera will think there is too much light when it is perfectly exposed. To compensate for this you have to select an ISO setting that is less than that of the film. So, for example, if you fit an ISO 400 film, but tell the camera you are using ISO 200 film, then the camera will think it needs more light - enough to expose the less sensitive ISO 200 film - so either open the shutter for longer, or use a wider aperture, and this will prevent the under exposure you would otherwise get. The reason silver oxide SR44 batteries are used is because there output voltage is relatively stable, so even if the output voltage is wrong, it is at least consistently wrong. The voltage from alkaline batteries, on the other hand, is not stable, and falls dramatically over its lifetime, so you would need to keep adjusting the ISO setting.
Well that's the theory anyway. I will find out if it works when my MR-9 adapter turns up, so I can fit an SR44 to my Yashica Minister D. Fingers crossed.
The voltage changes when the meter is on. You cannot read it with just a multi meter. Are you sure you have the electronic adapter one not just a holder.
Informative video but why not find the necessary tools before you start shooting the video as well as checking in a dictionary the English word for copper. Then the video runs smoothly and will be liked more
good information, terrible presentation
thanks for the video. can you tell me the diameter of the wire you use? thank you