Glad to hear it! I was a long-time OM-1 user before I moved to Finland to work at Kamerastore. They're really great cameras (-: Thanks for watching! - Connor
Ah, what a pleasure to watch! I noticed some minor differences between this OM-1 and my OM-2n which I bought used at a fleamarket already a year ago in August 22. My camera looks absolutely beaten up (the fake leather wrapping comes off on all corners, with scratches all over ...) but she works fine! I love her so much.
The design of that camera was excellent. The button on the lens to dismount was a dream to use. The mount on the body was designed with a big flat surface so that there was no possibility of out of aligned mounting. The shutter speed control around the back of the lens was the correct place to have the shutter control on any camera, not the top plate. One hand to focus, set aparture and shutter speed, perfect. Mechanical shutter so it alway fired. Five frames a second motordrive. Nikon F2 was a nightmare to use, the Canon F1 was a bit better but the Canon FD mount was a disaster waiting to happen and did happen. OM1 one of the best SLR's ever made. The best £ for £ by far nothing to touch it.
This was SO helpful, I’ve had my grandfathers OM-1 for years and never knew how to use it so it just collected dust! I can finally use it, hope I get it right lol
Thanks for the video! I just bought one of these from you but didn't realise you had a video overview until I started searching the web for an overview. I discovered your business from the SmarterEveryDay channel. Cheers from the USA!
They're great cameras, Calvin! The OM-4 has some really cool light meter functions that, honestly, are a bit too much for me to use on a daily basis. 🤣The multi-spot highlight/shadow metering is probably extremely useful for those who take the time to learn the system and play around with it. Thanks for watching! - Connor
Thanks for this video! I'm very interested in this small mechanical SLR but I'm not surr about the battery though. Isn't the PX625 1.5V but the camera was designed to work with 1.3V instead, like many others from that time? Isn't the meter affected by the increased voltage?
It is, but barely! You can use it with the PX625 and it will be fine, or you can use an MR-9 battery adapter with an SR43 battery to get the proper voltage. Hope that helps! - Connor
I have an unusual question about the Olympus M-1 - the original Olympus film SLR. I always wanted to get an original Olympus M-1, made before Leica forced Olympus to change the name to OM . I am considering one now, however, the serial number on it is 2xx,xxx. I thought that Olympus started the production of M-1 with 100,000 and only made about 52,000 before switching the name to OM-1. I also heard that there are a number of fakes with M-1 top plate fitted on OM-1. Does anyone know the serial number range for the original Olympus M-1 film SLR? Thank you
Love this video! So helpful and concise :-) I can't find a lot of info on the shutter speed in between the numbers on the ring. Can it damage the camera by shooting with speeds between the marks?
There are no shutter speeds in between, the camera will use one or the other. I'm not sure which (-: better to stick with the numbers on the dial! Thanks for watching. - Connor
@Kamerastore i have a slight issue with my 50mm 1.8 auto-s Zuiko lens. The bearing/aperture ring is kinda loose. I can slighty, just very slightly wobble the aperture ring up and down and i can even hear it very clear. Despite that, it work totally fine though, the ring clicks when changing the aperture and the pictures looka fine. But still, it annoys me and its just me being OCD😂 i got the lens from a second hand store, some even say they put the wrong bearing on it😅 or is this just normal after years of use?
It's likely just from old age. Most camera stores don't do any kind of disassembly and repair. Likely there's an internal ring or something that's just a bit loose or has slightly broken/bent. It's probably not a very complicated fix but it does require someone who knows how to disassemble and reassemble Olympus lenses properly. Those people are not very common these days! - C
@@Kamerastore Thanks for your reply. I think I’m gonna let a professional check that up because I have zero experience in dissembling a lens. some professionals at camera store even say that All aperture rings must have a certain amount of play to be able to turn and click over the ball bearings, but they sometimes become looser over time with use and age. This lens is being used by a previous owner. As i mentioned everything works perfectly. It’s just a little wobbly.
Light meters can definitely be calibrated/repaired! For the most part, the limiting factors for repair are parts availability and technical knowhow. So basically, not many people know how to properly repair cameras and many of those that do don't have access to the spare parts you may need (assuming you need to replace the light meter entirely). So it may not be possible/practical for that reason. It's also possible that the labor required would cost more than what you'd pay for a new one, even a serviced one from us that has a working meter. The expertise and equipment for fixing cameras are expensive and rare these days! In short, it's definitely POSSIBLE to repair, it just may not be PRACTICAL. Hope that makes sense. If you're interested in getting a new OM-1 that's been fully serviced, we have them on our website (-: Thanks for watching! - Connor
Great camera. However I find the shutter speed 1/125, 1/250, 1/500 and 1/1000 all sound and act the same. It’s like I don’t noticed any difference in the speed and they sound the same. but for some reason I don’t see any difference in the photos. Is this normal? I’m kinda new to film photography and this camera is my first film camera. I’m still learning a lot about these cameras.
Hi! Sounds like there must be some issues with the camera shutter speeds. The image should not look the same for example with 1/125 and with 1/500. 1/500 should be quite a bit darker. 2 full stops to be exact. -Tuomas
@@DaniBRGS You will probably not see the difference when watching the shutter with your eyes. If you're really concerned you can do a more thorough comparison with photos at those different speeds and see if they look more grainy/underexposed at the faster shutter speeds with the same aperture.
I have this lens. and another. When I rotate the aperture ring, with either lens, the ring does not close the aperture. It is stuck at f/1.8 wide open. Both lenses do the same thing, so it seems like something in-camera is preventing the aperture from opening. Does the aperture change only when the shutter is pressed?
The aperture changes only when the shutter is pressed! Most 35mm SLRs do this, it's called "open aperture viewing". By keeping the aperture wide open until right when you press the shutter, the viewfinder remains as bright as possible while you focus/compose. Thanks for watching! - Connor
Thank you so much for this video. Does the camera itself have a limit of exposures? I have film in my camera for 34 exposures, but my camera won't progress past 26
Hey Chelsea! The camera should be able to just keep shooting. The frame counter runs out around 40 or so (if I remember correctly). Is your camera unable to fire the shutter or advance the film past 26? Or is the frame counter getting stuck? - Connor
Nice review, really! But does the battery only serve to wind the film back? I thought the camera was completely mechanical, can it be used even without the battery? I heard it's hard to find. I would like to purchase the product from your website, I'm really excited about the purchase!!!
The battery only powers the light meter. The winding is done with the large lever on the top right of the camera! The camera is totally usable without a battery, it just won't tell you when your shot is properly exposed. In terms of the battery, the exact one that the camera was made for (1.3v Mercury) is no longer in production. There are a few solutions, including using a modern battery (1.5v PX625) with a different voltage, using a battery adapter (MR-9) to convert a modern battery (LR44) to the right voltage/size, or using a modern Zinc Air battery (Wein Cell). It's not the easiest thing in the world, but it's far from impossible! Thanks for watching! - Connor
The 50mm f1.8 has a 49mm filter thread, so any generic 49mm hood will fit. If you Google "49mm square lens hood" one should pop up (-: Thanks for watching! - Connor
Hi! There's no B on the flash sync port, only X and FP. X mode is used for all electronic flashes and most disposable flash bulbs, while FP is only used for FP type disposable flash bulbs. These are not used today so X mode is what you want to use. (-: The B you're seeing in that shot is part of the shutter speed dial, which is around the lens mount, not the flash settings. Hope that helps! - Connor
@@Kamerastore I am just pointing that, what you mention in the 7:20 about taking a picture with the window up you mean to use it like you would use BULB
@@ugai_bro Oh, sorry I misunderstood. The answer is no, though. You can use the mirror lock-up with any shutter speed, not just bulb. It's useful with many different speeds and in many different situations where reducing camera shake is beneficial. You do not have to use bulb mode when the mirror is locked up. Thanks! - Connor
Hey Alexandra! For a beginner, I'd probably recommend something on the cheaper end. For color, maybe Kodak Gold 200. For black & white, I'd go with Ilford HP5+ or even Fomapan 400. After you have some experience with exposure and feel okay about how the camera handles, then you can try out some more expensive films like Kodak's Portra series or Ektar 100! Thanks for watching! - Connor
You can use the normal 1.5v PX625 batteries and not have much issue, but if you're concerned about the voltage difference I recommend the MR-9 battery adapter. A serviced OM-1 from our site is usually calibrated to work properly with the MR-9. (-: Thanks for watching! - Connor
@@jordanjoestar8839 Lucky you! Many have been adjusted to use the modern 1.5v batteries and they work perfectly. It makes things a lot easier! Thanks for watching. - Connor
Hi Ben, do you mean the rewind knob? In that case, it could be possible you haven't put the camera into rewind mode with the switch on the front of the camera. If it's something else, we can try to troubleshoot that too. Let me know! - Connor
Hello. No I meant the rewind switch itself snaps back into place whenever I want the camera to rewind. I took out the film by just holding the switch red to red and it seemed to work. But it is strange that yours acts as a switch with two states and mine has to be held while winding (makes it a little harder ti accomplish)
@@benkovrishkin8956 Gotcha. Likely your mechanism is a bit dirty inside and would benefit from a CLA. The one I'm using has been cleaned internally and adjusted by our mechanics, so everything is working as it should. - C
Just acquired an OM-1N, no users manual can I get a download somewhere. But I have a problem opening the back. I can disengage the rewind by pulling it up, but no clicking sound and cannot get the back open. Will it need the frame counter set to 0 or 1. Or is it something to do with the rewind? Next thing to try.
This is, by far, the most correct description of proper use of an OM-1/1n that I've come across anywhere on youtube! Fabulous! You know your stuff!
Glad to hear it! I was a long-time OM-1 user before I moved to Finland to work at Kamerastore. They're really great cameras (-: Thanks for watching!
- Connor
Wow the light meter is so cool!!! I just received this camera today and I’m so excited to use it!!!
Enjoy!!! Thanks for watching (-:
- Connor
Fantastic guide! I am a complete novice who has just been gifted one of these cameras to use while on my travels abroad. Very very helpful. Thank you!
I hope you enjoy the camera!
- Connor
Ah, what a pleasure to watch! I noticed some minor differences between this OM-1 and my OM-2n which I bought used at a fleamarket already a year ago in August 22.
My camera looks absolutely beaten up (the fake leather wrapping comes off on all corners, with scratches all over ...) but she works fine! I love her so much.
The design of that camera was excellent. The button on the lens to dismount was a dream to use. The mount on the body was designed with a big flat surface so that there was no possibility of out of aligned mounting. The shutter speed control around the back of the lens was the correct place to have the shutter control on any camera, not the top plate. One hand to focus, set aparture and shutter speed, perfect. Mechanical shutter so it alway fired. Five frames a second motordrive. Nikon F2 was a nightmare to use, the Canon F1 was a bit better but the Canon FD mount was a disaster waiting to happen and did happen. OM1 one of the best SLR's ever made. The best £ for £ by far nothing to touch it.
This was SO helpful, I’ve had my grandfathers OM-1 for years and never knew how to use it so it just collected dust! I can finally use it, hope I get it right lol
Happy to hear! We'll be here if you need any help troubleshooting (-: Thanks for watching!
- Connor
An easy camera to service, apart from the fiddly string that rotates the exposure galvanometer. I used to enjoy working on them though.
Thanks for the video! I just bought one of these from you but didn't realise you had a video overview until I started searching the web for an overview. I discovered your business from the SmarterEveryDay channel. Cheers from the USA!
Glad to hear it! We hope you enjoy your OM-1 (-:
Thanks for watching!
- Connor
One of the clearest guides I’ve found thank you!!
Glad to hear it! Hope it helps (-:
- Connor
Get yours here: kamerastore.com/collections/olympus-om?+om-1
Always been curious about the OM cameras. The ones that interest me are the 1 and the 4.
They're great cameras, Calvin! The OM-4 has some really cool light meter functions that, honestly, are a bit too much for me to use on a daily basis. 🤣The multi-spot highlight/shadow metering is probably extremely useful for those who take the time to learn the system and play around with it. Thanks for watching!
- Connor
Thanks for the overview! You guys have some great info :)
Thanks for watching! Glad you enjoyed and learned a thing or two. (-:
- Connor
I’ve been using it wronngggg I realised haha but I was still a tiny girl. Never too late to learn 🙏🏼
It happens! Good luck using it in the future! (-:
- Connor
Thanks for this video! I'm very interested in this small mechanical SLR but I'm not surr about the battery though. Isn't the PX625 1.5V but the camera was designed to work with 1.3V instead, like many others from that time? Isn't the meter affected by the increased voltage?
It is, but barely! You can use it with the PX625 and it will be fine, or you can use an MR-9 battery adapter with an SR43 battery to get the proper voltage. Hope that helps!
- Connor
I have an unusual question about the Olympus M-1 - the original Olympus film SLR.
I always wanted to get an original Olympus M-1, made before Leica forced Olympus to change the name to OM . I am considering one now, however, the serial number on it is 2xx,xxx. I thought that Olympus started the production of M-1 with 100,000 and only made about 52,000 before switching the name to OM-1. I also heard that there are a number of fakes with M-1 top plate fitted on OM-1.
Does anyone know the serial number range for the original Olympus M-1 film SLR?
Thank you
Could you reply to this with a link for amazon so I could purchase some of the batteries? Thanks in advance!
Love this video! So helpful and concise :-) I can't find a lot of info on the shutter speed in between the numbers on the ring. Can it damage the camera by shooting with speeds between the marks?
There are no shutter speeds in between, the camera will use one or the other. I'm not sure which (-: better to stick with the numbers on the dial! Thanks for watching.
- Connor
Excellent. Thanks :)
@Kamerastore i have a slight issue with my 50mm 1.8 auto-s Zuiko lens. The bearing/aperture ring is kinda loose. I can slighty, just very slightly wobble the aperture ring up and down and i can even hear it very clear. Despite that, it work totally fine though, the ring clicks when changing the aperture and the pictures looka fine. But still, it annoys me and its just me being OCD😂 i got the lens from a second hand store, some even say they put the wrong bearing on it😅 or is this just normal after years of use?
It's likely just from old age. Most camera stores don't do any kind of disassembly and repair. Likely there's an internal ring or something that's just a bit loose or has slightly broken/bent. It's probably not a very complicated fix but it does require someone who knows how to disassemble and reassemble Olympus lenses properly. Those people are not very common these days!
- C
@@Kamerastore Thanks for your reply. I think I’m gonna let a professional check that up because I have zero experience in dissembling a lens. some professionals at camera store even say that All aperture rings must have a certain amount of play to be able to turn and click over the ball bearings, but they sometimes become looser over time with use and age. This lens is being used by a previous owner. As i mentioned everything works perfectly. It’s just a little wobbly.
My Olympus OM-1n 's light meter is not working properly, people tells me it usually unfixable since it is too old:((( Is that true?
Light meters can definitely be calibrated/repaired! For the most part, the limiting factors for repair are parts availability and technical knowhow. So basically, not many people know how to properly repair cameras and many of those that do don't have access to the spare parts you may need (assuming you need to replace the light meter entirely). So it may not be possible/practical for that reason.
It's also possible that the labor required would cost more than what you'd pay for a new one, even a serviced one from us that has a working meter. The expertise and equipment for fixing cameras are expensive and rare these days!
In short, it's definitely POSSIBLE to repair, it just may not be PRACTICAL. Hope that makes sense. If you're interested in getting a new OM-1 that's been fully serviced, we have them on our website (-: Thanks for watching!
- Connor
@@Kamerastore Thanks for the explanation❤
Great camera. However I find the shutter speed 1/125, 1/250, 1/500 and 1/1000 all sound and act the same. It’s like I don’t noticed any difference in the speed and they sound the same. but for some reason I don’t see any difference in the photos. Is this normal? I’m kinda new to film photography and this camera is my first film camera. I’m still learning a lot about these cameras.
Hi! Sounds like there must be some issues with the camera shutter speeds. The image should not look the same for example with 1/125 and with 1/500. 1/500 should be quite a bit darker. 2 full stops to be exact. -Tuomas
@@Kamerastore I noticed that at 1/500 the images looks slightly darker than 1/125 so I assume there’s no issues with my camera. But thanks anyway!
@@DaniBRGS You will probably not see the difference when watching the shutter with your eyes. If you're really concerned you can do a more thorough comparison with photos at those different speeds and see if they look more grainy/underexposed at the faster shutter speeds with the same aperture.
I have this lens. and another. When I rotate the aperture ring, with either lens, the ring does not close the aperture. It is stuck at f/1.8 wide open. Both lenses do the same thing, so it seems like something in-camera is preventing the aperture from opening. Does the aperture change only when the shutter is pressed?
The aperture changes only when the shutter is pressed! Most 35mm SLRs do this, it's called "open aperture viewing". By keeping the aperture wide open until right when you press the shutter, the viewfinder remains as bright as possible while you focus/compose. Thanks for watching!
- Connor
Thank you so much for this video. Does the camera itself have a limit of exposures? I have film in my camera for 34 exposures, but my camera won't progress past 26
Hey Chelsea! The camera should be able to just keep shooting. The frame counter runs out around 40 or so (if I remember correctly). Is your camera unable to fire the shutter or advance the film past 26? Or is the frame counter getting stuck?
- Connor
Nice review, really! But does the battery only serve to wind the film back? I thought the camera was completely mechanical, can it be used even without the battery? I heard it's hard to find. I would like to purchase the product from your website, I'm really excited about the purchase!!!
The battery only powers the light meter. The winding is done with the large lever on the top right of the camera! The camera is totally usable without a battery, it just won't tell you when your shot is properly exposed. In terms of the battery, the exact one that the camera was made for (1.3v Mercury) is no longer in production. There are a few solutions, including using a modern battery (1.5v PX625) with a different voltage, using a battery adapter (MR-9) to convert a modern battery (LR44) to the right voltage/size, or using a modern Zinc Air battery (Wein Cell). It's not the easiest thing in the world, but it's far from impossible! Thanks for watching!
- Connor
@@Kamerastore many thanks! Congratulations, for the video and your shop you really offer excellent service!
Does anyone know where I can get a square lens hood for the 50mm 1.8 lens?
The 50mm f1.8 has a 49mm filter thread, so any generic 49mm hood will fit. If you Google "49mm square lens hood" one should pop up (-: Thanks for watching!
- Connor
@@Kamerastore Thanks Connor!
7:20 then what’s the “B” of Bulb for??????
Hi! There's no B on the flash sync port, only X and FP. X mode is used for all electronic flashes and most disposable flash bulbs, while FP is only used for FP type disposable flash bulbs. These are not used today so X mode is what you want to use. (-: The B you're seeing in that shot is part of the shutter speed dial, which is around the lens mount, not the flash settings. Hope that helps!
- Connor
@@Kamerastore Hello sorry I don't want to sound rude, but there is a B before the 1 ON the shutter velocities
@@Kamerastore I am just pointing that, what you mention in the 7:20 about taking a picture with the window up you mean to use it like you would use BULB
@@ugai_bro Oh, sorry I misunderstood. The answer is no, though. You can use the mirror lock-up with any shutter speed, not just bulb. It's useful with many different speeds and in many different situations where reducing camera shake is beneficial. You do not have to use bulb mode when the mirror is locked up. Thanks!
- Connor
What kind of film do you recommend? Thank you!!
Hey Alexandra! For a beginner, I'd probably recommend something on the cheaper end. For color, maybe Kodak Gold 200. For black & white, I'd go with Ilford HP5+ or even Fomapan 400. After you have some experience with exposure and feel okay about how the camera handles, then you can try out some more expensive films like Kodak's Portra series or Ektar 100! Thanks for watching!
- Connor
I want one of these but what batteries can i use..i hear various types due to its 1.35 volts
You can use the normal 1.5v PX625 batteries and not have much issue, but if you're concerned about the voltage difference I recommend the MR-9 battery adapter. A serviced OM-1 from our site is usually calibrated to work properly with the MR-9. (-: Thanks for watching!
- Connor
Mine reads perfect even with modern batteries.
@@jordanjoestar8839 Lucky you! Many have been adjusted to use the modern 1.5v batteries and they work perfectly. It makes things a lot easier! Thanks for watching.
- Connor
What if my tension knob doesn’t turn ?
Hi Ben, do you mean the rewind knob? In that case, it could be possible you haven't put the camera into rewind mode with the switch on the front of the camera. If it's something else, we can try to troubleshoot that too. Let me know!
- Connor
Hello. No I meant the rewind switch itself snaps back into place whenever I want the camera to rewind. I took out the film by just holding the switch red to red and it seemed to work. But it is strange that yours acts as a switch with two states and mine has to be held while winding (makes it a little harder ti accomplish)
@@benkovrishkin8956 Gotcha. Likely your mechanism is a bit dirty inside and would benefit from a CLA. The one I'm using has been cleaned internally and adjusted by our mechanics, so everything is working as it should.
- C
Just acquired an OM-1N, no users manual can I get a download somewhere. But I have a problem opening the back. I can disengage the rewind by pulling it up, but no clicking sound and cannot get the back open. Will it need the frame counter set to 0 or 1. Or is it something to do with the rewind? Next thing to try.