Thank you for noting about cleaning the tape with acetone for any overlap (with tape or liquid flash). This is something that no one seems to talk about. I haven't heard Risinger mention it in any of his videos. I ran into this when I built my house earlier this year. My framers and GC had no idea it was necessary... I did (after researching it)... and I ended up ripping ALL of the tape off of my window flanges, cleaning the rough opening tape with acetone, and reapplying. It came off easily even after having been rolled... which should tell you exactly why it's a problem. In hindsight, I wish I had done liquid flash on all windows and doors. I wouldn't mess with it on sheathing seams... it's super expensive ($10 more per tube than Prosoco Fast Flash... why?!)... but for other penetrations and for the foundation to sill, it's fantastic. If I was to replace tape on the sheathing, I'd go with stretch tape. Much thicker, much more durable, and because it has a paper cover there's no need to acetone.
Excellent information Doug. I appreciate the cost comparison. One other benefit of LF over tape is the robust adhesion even if the sheathing isn't perfectly dry or dust free (though it should be clean and dry before application). Tape is more finicky of damp or dusty sheathing.
The Liquid Flash is a better product overall over the tape. It may cost more, but it's more universal compared to purchasing different products for different sections of the build!👍🏽🙏🏽
Great stuff Doug but let’s be real liquid flash doesn’t provide a remotely adequate gap behind siding maybe you can get away with in texas and southwest but for 80 per cent of the country it won’t provide the gap you need to be secure in back drying potential
Agreed The thickness of the Liquid Flash can add to the drain-ability but not necessarily the dry-ability: AKA convection which typically requires at least 3/8” air gap.
for gen pop type areas (the field) i think tape makes the most sense. but as doug said at around 3:00 there is certainly areas where liquid flash is a winner. Doug- where you mention the window application, are you using liquid flash in place of caulk or in addition to? thanks.
I’m only caulking the backside of our window nailing flanges (minus the bottom flange), if the manufacturer specifically calls for doing so. Otherwise the fully cured Liquid Flash already applied around the window rough opening create a “grabby” gasket like connection, often rendering typical window caulking unnecessary. We do seal all 4 sides of the window frame to the waterproofed rough opening from the inside with a combo of foam backer-rod & liquid flash.
Bro - excellent video! Subscribed! Huber will need to sell 5-gallon buckets of Liqui-Flash to support you! :-) It would be awesome to see you do a house with standard OSB or plywood and then spray the whole house with Polywall. What is the material / labor difference between the two? It would make a great video!
I'm going this route for my house with a Scott True rafter tail detail. I appreciate the cost breakdown as that's been hard to find. It looks like you applied painters tape on either side of your joints. Was that labor and material cost part of your calculations?
Not sure I understood the price difference. Are you saying is 4x more the cost of the tape or the entire sheeting insulation cost 4 times more? Installer charges more? Would you recommend this in Houston weather? Will foam be money wasted if going this route? About to start building my first home! Thanks in advance
Just 4 times the cost of doing tape. The zip R (foam) is totally worth it. Consider doing 2-1/2” stripes of fluid applied at seams that should reduce costs significantly
It's over driven nail heads puncturing the zip membrane that present a problem. The shaft of the nail typically does not cause a similar problem, so it's not considered necessary to seal siding nail penetrations. Also it would be next to impossible to do.
Agreed. Full coverage fluid applied, while expensive, provides a gasket seal around every fastener, even the nails from siding. Also, the addition of a rainscreen renders any concern from siding nails almost completely irrelevant, full coverage fluid applied or not.
Fluid applied WRB over traditional OSB seems to be the highest quality method
I have definitely done that in the past & it is simply more expensive.
Thank you for noting about cleaning the tape with acetone for any overlap (with tape or liquid flash). This is something that no one seems to talk about. I haven't heard Risinger mention it in any of his videos.
I ran into this when I built my house earlier this year. My framers and GC had no idea it was necessary... I did (after researching it)... and I ended up ripping ALL of the tape off of my window flanges, cleaning the rough opening tape with acetone, and reapplying. It came off easily even after having been rolled... which should tell you exactly why it's a problem.
In hindsight, I wish I had done liquid flash on all windows and doors. I wouldn't mess with it on sheathing seams... it's super expensive ($10 more per tube than Prosoco Fast Flash... why?!)... but for other penetrations and for the foundation to sill, it's fantastic. If I was to replace tape on the sheathing, I'd go with stretch tape. Much thicker, much more durable, and because it has a paper cover there's no need to acetone.
Great feedback. The stretchtape is my favorite of all the tapes & it would definitely be awesome in place of regular zip tape.
What would you use to protect 2x6 joists that stub up to concrete patio. I'm building a deck
Looks great! Good to know the cost difference doing a whole house that way
Thanks Scott, been enjoying your content BTW 👍🏽
Excellent information Doug. I appreciate the cost comparison. One other benefit of LF over tape is the robust adhesion even if the sheathing isn't perfectly dry or dust free (though it should be clean and dry before application). Tape is more finicky of damp or dusty sheathing.
Agreed Joel, hard to mess up Liquid Flash. I jokingly explain it to my kids as being like “finger paint.”
The Liquid Flash is a better product overall over the tape. It may cost more, but it's more universal compared to purchasing different products for different sections of the build!👍🏽🙏🏽
Amen
Good info, thank you for sharing!
You’re welcome Grant 💪🏽
Liquid flash works great on inside corners. Much quicker than tape. Just use an inside corner drywall knife to spread like mud.
Great stuff Doug but let’s be real liquid flash doesn’t provide a remotely adequate gap behind siding maybe you can get away with in texas and southwest but for 80 per cent of the country it won’t provide the gap you need to be secure in back drying potential
Agreed The thickness of the Liquid Flash can add to the drain-ability but not necessarily the dry-ability: AKA convection which typically requires at least 3/8” air gap.
for gen pop type areas (the field) i think tape makes the most sense. but as doug said at around 3:00 there is certainly areas where liquid flash is a winner. Doug- where you mention the window application, are you using liquid flash in place of caulk or in addition to? thanks.
I’m only caulking the backside of our window nailing flanges (minus the bottom flange), if the manufacturer specifically calls for doing so. Otherwise the fully cured Liquid Flash already applied around the window rough opening create a “grabby” gasket like connection, often rendering typical window caulking unnecessary. We do seal all 4 sides of the window frame to the waterproofed rough opening from the inside with a combo of foam backer-rod & liquid flash.
Do you have any videos or advice on exterior wall framing, double wall versus staggered studs with 2x8 plates?
Bro - excellent video! Subscribed! Huber will need to sell 5-gallon buckets of Liqui-Flash to support you! :-) It would be awesome to see you do a house with standard OSB or plywood and then spray the whole house with Polywall. What is the material / labor difference between the two? It would make a great video!
I'm going this route for my house with a Scott True rafter tail detail. I appreciate the cost breakdown as that's been hard to find. It looks like you applied painters tape on either side of your joints. Was that labor and material cost part of your calculations?
Yes.
Not sure I understood the price difference. Are you saying is 4x more the cost of the tape or the entire sheeting insulation cost 4 times more?
Installer charges more? Would you recommend this in Houston weather? Will foam be money wasted if going this route? About to start building my first home! Thanks in advance
Just 4 times the cost of doing tape. The zip R (foam) is totally worth it. Consider doing 2-1/2” stripes of fluid applied at seams that should reduce costs significantly
If that guy built me a house with his ego we wouldn’t make it til noon on day one.
How the heck are your lines so straight with the liquid flash?
Masking tape
Tape ain't monolithic. Monolithic is everything. Liquid, liquid, liquid.
I was referring to the Liquid Flash because there are no peel-able seams
What about all the holes from nails when siding?
It's over driven nail heads puncturing the zip membrane that present a problem. The shaft of the nail typically does not cause a similar problem, so it's not considered necessary to seal siding nail penetrations. Also it would be next to impossible to do.
Agreed. Full coverage fluid applied, while expensive, provides a gasket seal around every fastener, even the nails from siding.
Also, the addition of a rainscreen renders any concern from siding nails almost completely irrelevant, full coverage fluid applied or not.
so cute, but that beard has GOTS to go!!!
Ha, why?