Great job Steve and nicely diagnosed mate, when the heater blower was turned on it lowered the engine temp so my first thought was the cooling fan or the temp sensor for it but that wasn't the case, I think I saw that the car has done over 100k so my next thought was a blocked rad😎 but I didn't think it would be scaled up like that but it would be that the rad would be full of flies, leaves and other various dead bodies🧐😂 Very interesting video Steve cheers mate👏👌👍
Thanks John, I must admit after taking the old rad out I was a bit worried about my diagnosis, but I thought about it some more and thought I had to be right. Yeah the body count on the fins was low, I did tell my dad to try and clean the radiator externally with a hose, maybe that’s why it wasn’t to bad. Definitely was blocked internally, I just think that the thin coating of scale was acting as an insulator. Yeah 114K if I remember right felt quite nice to drive for what it is to be fair! Thanks John as always mate.
Excellent job solving this. I am the family member which was convinced it could be the water pump causing the issue. I owned the car for 2 years and put 20k on the clock (70k to 90k. Knew it wasn't head gasket, solid little engine. I personally never had the red light of death temp light, but if she did get hot hot it didn't do any serious harm to engine!!
Cheers Dan, thanks mate, it’s a shame that I didn’t connect my scan tool to see exactly what temperature the light comes on at I’m sure it would have given plenty of notice, usually you can smell a very hot engine and I whilst you get that normal hot smell it didn’t smell like it was badly overheating to the point of no return. It’s a good little car to be fair, everything still feels tight and well put together for a cheap runaround, good little cars!
Absolutely, this car came from my dad's wife. Full services up to 70k odds milage. It had 3 oil changes in my ownership. To be fair if it hasn't yet had plugs filters and another oil change it's definitely due immently!! For a 14 year old car it's pretty fresh all-round 👌
Need to swap numbers. Wanted a chat about possibility of a new video for your channel and work on my fiesta st. Willing to help you with job if needed as well as a reimburse you for ur time and knowledge if you can fit me in in the new year ! Brilliant channel and so honest and informative to watch keep it up 👍
I had this and yeah the aluminium fins of the radiator were so brittle after its 20+ years that they were no longer able to be cooled effectively by forward travel let alone the fan , good call
My mum's 2005 k12 overheated on the way back from its MOT in July 2020. Eventually tracked it down to the low speed fan not coming on which turned out to be an IPDM problem (IPDM is under the nearside headlight). I got hold of the service manual and used the right resistance from the thermistor on the engine block to prove the low speed fan wasn't kicking in and the high speed on was. There is a sequence you can go through with the ignition and door interior light to test the IPDM functions and this proved its wasn't kicking in. A 2nd hand one worked fine except it needs to be programmed to the car or you swap out the eeprom which there is a service out there you can get for about £80. For one reason or other the car is still on the drive and I have yet to fix it. 2024 will be that year it gets fixed :-)
Oh that’s annoying that the car passed the MOT to then threw a fault! That’s handy to know thank you for that info! It’s annoying that a simple fix has to be such a nuisance to repair when realistically it should be a plug and play module. Good luck with getting your Micra sorted hope it’s not to difficult for you. Happy new year to you. Steve.
@@Cavalier_Steve Happy New Year to you as well. It's quite annoying on older cars the need for decent scanners and programmers especially Nissan's which have far less 3rd party support than ford or vag. Currently trying to determine the abs fault on my brother's k12 Micra which the cheaper readers won't report on. What fun!
Simple enough fix Steve, bit more work than a cavalier to get the rad out with that top panel, but always interesting to try your hand on other cars to keep the skill-set up. Probably could have flushed it but more worth it in the long run just replacing the rad.
Hi Andy, definitely more work than a Cavalier, I like to go straight in with no research to make it more real for others out there, mind you nowadays it’s easy for anyone to research it. I think the radiator would have been ok with a flush, but not knowing the connection of the radiator before work I thought it would be best just to order a replacement. If it was my own car I would have flushed it with a cleaner. As you say it’s definitely worth it in the long run. Cheers mate, hope your Cavalier project is going ok 👍 cheers.
@@Cavalier_Steve Hi Steve, it's good you done it that way as you say it makes it more real for other viewers rather than a pre-scripted repair. The cavalier project and everything else car-related has taken a back seat just now for the xmas period, although I am lining stuff up ready to get back to it in the NY. Just hoping for some drier weather lol wishful thinking I think! Have a great xmas and NY and all the best when it comes 👍
Thank you very much Andy, yeah that how I feel at the moment so wet down here on my days off. Hopefully you would love January's video 😀 you and your family have a great Christmas as well and hope you have a good new year. I will look forward to seeing what you get upto. Cheers mate have a good one.
Hi, i have a nissan march k12 and its overheating. The fan is kicking in however the top radiator hose is cold while the bottom is hot and the water in radiator is cold. Could it be thermostat?
@@shauncamilleri4795 Hi there, the fan is ECU controlled it looks at the engine temperature, the sensor is on the engine block hence why the fan is still kicking in and out. Are you getting heat from your heater inside the car?
Thanks for a great video - perhaps I will need that job done. I have changed thermostat today, new coolant, burped the coolant with the funnel. Unfortunately lower hose still cold up to 98 C when fan kicked in, no heating in the cabin, cold air coming (I would get some lukewarm air on maximum before this job) I tested old thermostat (original Nissan) in boiling water after that, and it opened. So probably thermostat was not a problem (why should it be simple ;-) Realized that I only got 2.5-3 liter of old coolant out. Starting to suspect clogged radiator or something of a sort. If you can advise or anyone else, it would be greatly appreciated. Happy New Year 🍾
Happy New Year to you too, and thank you! Does your upper radiator hose get hot? It sounds to me like your coolant flow is low, it’s highly possible that your water pump has failed and isn’t pumping the water round the system at all or at a to lower flow rate. You may get a slightly improved heating performance when you rev the engine at a higher RPM as this should make the water pump push more flow, it may not though depending on how it’s failing. You could have a clog in the system but it’s unlikely that both radiator and heater matrix is blocked. I hope this helps. And keep me posted on how you get on or if you have any more questions. All the best, Steve.
Thank you Steve for a quick answer. Yes, the upper hose gets hot and my suspicions went to water pump too. Car was not overheating though but was running hotter then it should, and I only found out on a routine check of temp with OBD scanner and touching the hoses that something is not right + it would never heat properly inside, lukewarm at best. What confuses me is that I only got 2.5 - 3 liters of coolant out, and same amount went in. I only later checked what is coolant capacity and it is 5 liters. It is my wife's car and I am not so familiar with it as she only got it recently, 70000 miles first owner, fairly good condition, 1.2 petrol. Your observation on fan blowing hot or cold air can also point at some conclusions, and I will check that too. I think I will bleed it out again, dismantle hoses, completely check them inside and flush the radiator with something. If that doesn't work then water pump is next. I you can think of some conclusive test for water pump and some good product for radiator flush, let me know pls. Thanks again for your time, best from Joseph@@Cavalier_Steve
Hi Joseph, definitely worthwhile giving a flush ago, I’ve got some liqui molly stuff that I want to try out, there diesel cleaner I’m told is very good, I expect the liqui molly to be the same, maybe worth giving that ago, don’t forget you can’t always get all the water out, as some of it will be stuck inside the engine block, heater matrix and hoses, but I wouldn’t have said it would be 2 litres worth. The only thing I can suggest testing the water pump is taking off the top radiator hose when everything is cold and seeing how much flow you get out of it maybe into a bucket not sure how much flow you should get to be honest. I think water pumps are known on these, the good news is definitely on the 1.4 engine I was working on they are driven from the auxiliary drive belt (fan belt) so shouldn’t be to bad of a job. I would definitely try flushing first though as it’s only your time you’re using. What condition is the water inside the engine does it have a rusty look to it??
Thanks Steve. Old coolant that I got out was surprisingly clean but I changed it anyway to have a clean start as a new owner. I will start playing with it tomorrow, test the pump flow as you suggested and flush it. Will keep you updated best J
@@jp5617 That’s good news then, let’s hope that the there is a water still in the engine block, I’m sure I’m right in saying that the water pumps are a common on these to ware out. Yes please keep me posted on how you get on, It will be interesting what you find.
@@calvinparkes2031 It is possible that you have a head gasket fault, however if I was you I would flush the cooling system out with water until the water runs clear and then refill with coolant and see what happens. You can buy a head gasket leak detector that uses a chemical, I think it detects any CO2 gases in the coolant system. Good luck and let me know how you get on. Steve.
Hi yes, the engine was over heating and causing the coolant to boil over into the overflow tank, this is because the radiator cap is also a pressure relief valve, this allows coolant to expand and escape into the tank, when the coolant cools this creates a slight vacuum and then sucks the coolant back from the overflow tank, when the system is running in normal operating temperature range this doesn’t happen. The coolant no longer goes into the overflow tank as the radiator wasn’t transferring heat efficiently like it was designed to. I hope this helps. Sorry for the lengthy response. All the best. Steve.
Mauritius. I have a nissan ak12 2007 . Servicing done every 5000 km , oil , fllters and other parts liable to be verified and changed. I have not experienced any minor or important problems. I get full satisfaction from my car, but I nevertheless acknowledge that in mauritius we do not have hundred-km highways which are very using; but when I notice the state of the engine of continental cars , under the hood
Cont. I cannot but feel honestly and frankly , astonished by the state of things under the hood. Thick dust and..... which gives an impression that the hood has not been lifted for a long time. Prone to all sorts of problems. In mauritius 99.99 % of owners take great care of their vehicles. I am sure that a lot of people will approve me.
Hi Malleckkadell, unfortunately not everyone here looks after there cars, for example the owner here, they just use the car and don’t really care for it due to not caring and/or money which is a shame really, we both know that servicing is the biggest money saver, sadly not everyone sees it that way. The cars do get dusty under the hood, maybe due to the higher speeds on our motorway’s (highways) it’s good to hear that your country keeps there cars in good condition. People here seem to see them as a throwaway, which I don’t agree with sadly the government here doesn’t help! They don’t want older cars on the roads 😠😢
Hi, i have the same car and my problem is this: overheating sign after at least 1 hour trip when traveling on a hot summer day over 33C at 120km/h on uphill parts of a highway.After i stop and turn off the engine and continue with lower speed its fine.I have changed thermostat and still the problem remains.Also no coolant leaks.Furthermore i have changed a/c radiator a year now.Any thoughts?Thanks in advance
Hello there, This seems to be a common issue with these, as per the video really is the fan kicking in ok? And how is the heat from back of the radiator? is the top radiator hose much hotter than the bottom radiator hose? Does your temperature light go out when you run you interior fan on full and temperatures to hot? This takes around 5 minutes for the light to go out. See how you get on with these and let me know how you get on.
I know it’s hard to test, but how is the flow rate from your water pump? Does turning the heater on full with full fan help reduce the engine temperature? Let me know how you get on. All the best. Steve.
Hello there, First of all you may need to get the car scanned for any codes, is the check engine light on? I will try and help the best I can, the ECU is likely using the cam position sensor when you unplug the crank sensor along with longer crank time when you do this, I’m assuming it’s still stalling with crank unplugged? I believe these engines run off a MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure) instead of an Air flow meter so maybe worth ensuring that this is clean it will be along the air intake manifold somewhere it could be this that’s giving the wrong information to the ECU but just a guess. When the engine idles is it idling normally? I’m no expert in these but at least there is some things for you to look at. Good luck. Let me know how you get on. Steve.
Looks like what came out of the radiator was just pure water not the green coolant it should have been.. probably rusted out intenals of rad. would be interesting if you took off the plastic trim off the side to get a better look...
Yes it was mostly water, not sure why as I didn’t see any leaks, unless the old cap leaked but there wasn’t any evidence of that, not on the top anyway. What plastic trim are you referring to? The plastic tank top on the actual radiator? Cheers.
Great job Steve and nicely diagnosed mate, when the heater blower was turned on it lowered the engine temp so my first thought was the cooling fan or the temp sensor for it but that wasn't the case, I think I saw that the car has done over 100k so my next thought was a blocked rad😎 but I didn't think it would be scaled up like that but it would be that the rad would be full of flies, leaves and other various dead bodies🧐😂
Very interesting video Steve cheers mate👏👌👍
Thanks John, I must admit after taking the old rad out I was a bit worried about my diagnosis, but I thought about it some more and thought I had to be right. Yeah the body count on the fins was low, I did tell my dad to try and clean the radiator externally with a hose, maybe that’s why it wasn’t to bad. Definitely was blocked internally, I just think that the thin coating of scale was acting as an insulator. Yeah 114K if I remember right felt quite nice to drive for what it is to be fair! Thanks John as always mate.
Excellent job solving this. I am the family member which was convinced it could be the water pump causing the issue. I owned the car for 2 years and put 20k on the clock (70k to 90k. Knew it wasn't head gasket, solid little engine. I personally never had the red light of death temp light, but if she did get hot hot it didn't do any serious harm to engine!!
Cheers Dan, thanks mate, it’s a shame that I didn’t connect my scan tool to see exactly what temperature the light comes on at I’m sure it would have given plenty of notice, usually you can smell a very hot engine and I whilst you get that normal hot smell it didn’t smell like it was badly overheating to the point of no return. It’s a good little car to be fair, everything still feels tight and well put together for a cheap runaround, good little cars!
Absolutely, this car came from my dad's wife. Full services up to 70k odds milage. It had 3 oil changes in my ownership. To be fair if it hasn't yet had plugs filters and another oil change it's definitely due immently!! For a 14 year old car it's pretty fresh all-round 👌
Need to swap numbers. Wanted a chat about possibility of a new video for your channel and work on my fiesta st. Willing to help you with job if needed as well as a reimburse you for ur time and knowledge if you can fit me in in the new year ! Brilliant channel and so honest and informative to watch keep it up 👍
I will see if they want this done, nice easy little job to do.
Text received, will see what I can do, I’m quite busy with other commitments. What needs to be done on your Fiesta?
I had this and yeah the aluminium fins of the radiator were so brittle after its 20+ years that they were no longer able to be cooled effectively by forward travel let alone the fan , good call
That’s a good point I bet they was rotten and wasn’t transferring the heat, good thing I changed it for a new one. Cheers.
My mum's 2005 k12 overheated on the way back from its MOT in July 2020. Eventually tracked it down to the low speed fan not coming on which turned out to be an IPDM problem (IPDM is under the nearside headlight). I got hold of the service manual and used the right resistance from the thermistor on the engine block to prove the low speed fan wasn't kicking in and the high speed on was. There is a sequence you can go through with the ignition and door interior light to test the IPDM functions and this proved its wasn't kicking in. A 2nd hand one worked fine except it needs to be programmed to the car or you swap out the eeprom which there is a service out there you can get for about £80. For one reason or other the car is still on the drive and I have yet to fix it. 2024 will be that year it gets fixed :-)
Oh that’s annoying that the car passed the MOT to then threw a fault! That’s handy to know thank you for that info! It’s annoying that a simple fix has to be such a nuisance to repair when realistically it should be a plug and play module. Good luck with getting your Micra sorted hope it’s not to difficult for you. Happy new year to you. Steve.
@@Cavalier_Steve Happy New Year to you as well. It's quite annoying on older cars the need for decent scanners and programmers especially Nissan's which have far less 3rd party support than ford or vag. Currently trying to determine the abs fault on my brother's k12 Micra which the cheaper readers won't report on. What fun!
Good job, thanks for sharing. Very useful diagnostic tips.
You’re welcome, Thank you very much for the kind words. Steve.
Very good video Steve!❤
Simple enough fix Steve, bit more work than a cavalier to get the rad out with that top panel, but always interesting to try your hand on other cars to keep the skill-set up. Probably could have flushed it but more worth it in the long run just replacing the rad.
Hi Andy, definitely more work than a Cavalier, I like to go straight in with no research to make it more real for others out there, mind you nowadays it’s easy for anyone to research it. I think the radiator would have been ok with a flush, but not knowing the connection of the radiator before work I thought it would be best just to order a replacement. If it was my own car I would have flushed it with a cleaner. As you say it’s definitely worth it in the long run. Cheers mate, hope your Cavalier project is going ok 👍 cheers.
@@Cavalier_Steve Hi Steve, it's good you done it that way as you say it makes it more real for other viewers rather than a pre-scripted repair.
The cavalier project and everything else car-related has taken a back seat just now for the xmas period, although I am lining stuff up ready to get back to it in the NY. Just hoping for some drier weather lol wishful thinking I think! Have a great xmas and NY and all the best when it comes 👍
Thank you very much Andy, yeah that how I feel at the moment so wet down here on my days off. Hopefully you would love January's video 😀 you and your family have a great Christmas as well and hope you have a good new year. I will look forward to seeing what you get upto. Cheers mate have a good one.
Hi, i have a nissan march k12 and its overheating. The fan is kicking in however the top radiator hose is cold while the bottom is hot and the water in radiator is cold. Could it be thermostat?
@@shauncamilleri4795 Hi there, the fan is ECU controlled it looks at the engine temperature, the sensor is on the engine block hence why the fan is still kicking in and out.
Are you getting heat from your heater inside the car?
Thanks for a great video - perhaps I will need that job done. I have changed thermostat today, new coolant, burped the coolant with the funnel. Unfortunately lower hose still cold up to 98 C when fan kicked in, no heating in the cabin, cold air coming (I would get some lukewarm air on maximum before this job) I tested old thermostat (original Nissan) in boiling water after that, and it opened. So probably thermostat was not a problem (why should it be simple ;-) Realized that I only got 2.5-3 liter of old coolant out. Starting to suspect clogged radiator or something of a sort. If you can advise or anyone else, it would be greatly appreciated.
Happy New Year 🍾
Happy New Year to you too, and thank you! Does your upper radiator hose get hot? It sounds to me like your coolant flow is low, it’s highly possible that your water pump has failed and isn’t pumping the water round the system at all or at a to lower flow rate. You may get a slightly improved heating performance when you rev the engine at a higher RPM as this should make the water pump push more flow, it may not though depending on how it’s failing.
You could have a clog in the system but it’s unlikely that both radiator and heater matrix is blocked. I hope this helps. And keep me posted on how you get on or if you have any more questions. All the best, Steve.
Thank you Steve for a quick answer. Yes, the upper hose gets hot and my suspicions went to water pump too. Car was not overheating though but was running hotter then it should, and I only found out on a routine check of temp with OBD scanner and touching the hoses that something is not right + it would never heat properly inside, lukewarm at best. What confuses me is that I only got 2.5 - 3 liters of coolant out, and same amount went in. I only later checked what is coolant capacity and it is 5 liters. It is my wife's car and I am not so familiar with it as she only got it recently, 70000 miles first owner, fairly good condition, 1.2 petrol. Your observation on fan blowing hot or cold air can also point at some conclusions, and I will check that too. I think I will bleed it out again, dismantle hoses, completely check them inside and flush the radiator with something. If that doesn't work then water pump is next. I you can think of some conclusive test for water pump and some good product for radiator flush, let me know pls.
Thanks again for your time, best from Joseph@@Cavalier_Steve
Hi Joseph, definitely worthwhile giving a flush ago, I’ve got some liqui molly stuff that I want to try out, there diesel cleaner I’m told is very good, I expect the liqui molly to be the same, maybe worth giving that ago, don’t forget you can’t always get all the water out, as some of it will be stuck inside the engine block, heater matrix and hoses, but I wouldn’t have said it would be 2 litres worth.
The only thing I can suggest testing the water pump is taking off the top radiator hose when everything is cold and seeing how much flow you get out of it maybe into a bucket not sure how much flow you should get to be honest. I think water pumps are known on these, the good news is definitely on the 1.4 engine I was working on they are driven from the auxiliary drive belt (fan belt) so shouldn’t be to bad of a job. I would definitely try flushing first though as it’s only your time you’re using. What condition is the water inside the engine does it have a rusty look to it??
Thanks Steve. Old coolant that I got out was surprisingly clean but I changed it anyway to have a clean start as a new owner. I will start playing with it tomorrow, test the pump flow as you suggested and flush it. Will keep you updated
best J
@@jp5617 That’s good news then, let’s hope that the there is a water still in the engine block, I’m sure I’m right in saying that the water pumps are a common on these to ware out. Yes please keep me posted on how you get on, It will be interesting what you find.
Nicely done 😎
Thank you Barry ☺️
My k12 has this problem but it has this rusty oil in coolent and fan water is it blown head gasket ?
@@calvinparkes2031 It is possible that you have a head gasket fault, however if I was you I would flush the cooling system out with water until the water runs clear and then refill with coolant and see what happens. You can buy a head gasket leak detector that uses a chemical, I think it detects any CO2 gases in the coolant system. Good luck and let me know how you get on. Steve.
Hi. Can you tell me if was losing some fluid from the expansion tanker? Thanks
Hi yes, the engine was over heating and causing the coolant to boil over into the overflow tank, this is because the radiator cap is also a pressure relief valve, this allows coolant to expand and escape into the tank, when the coolant cools this creates a slight vacuum and then sucks the coolant back from the overflow tank, when the system is running in normal operating temperature range this doesn’t happen. The coolant no longer goes into the overflow tank as the radiator wasn’t transferring heat efficiently like it was designed to. I hope this helps. Sorry for the lengthy response. All the best. Steve.
@@Cavalier_Steve I am very grateful for your answer.
@@emilpoplawski3334 You’re welcome 👍
Mauritius. I have a nissan ak12 2007 . Servicing done every 5000 km , oil , fllters
and other parts liable to be verified and changed. I have not experienced any minor or important problems. I get full satisfaction from my car, but I nevertheless acknowledge that in mauritius we do not have hundred-km highways which are very using; but when I notice the state of the engine of continental cars , under the hood
Cont. I cannot but feel honestly and frankly , astonished by the state of things under the hood. Thick dust and..... which gives an impression that the hood has not been lifted for a long time. Prone to all sorts of problems. In mauritius 99.99 % of owners take great care of their vehicles. I am sure that a lot of people will approve me.
Hi Malleckkadell, unfortunately not everyone here looks after there cars, for example the owner here, they just use the car and don’t really care for it due to not caring and/or money which is a shame really, we both know that servicing is the biggest money saver, sadly not everyone sees it that way. The cars do get dusty under the hood, maybe due to the higher speeds on our motorway’s (highways) it’s good to hear that your country keeps there cars in good condition. People here seem to see them as a throwaway, which I don’t agree with sadly the government here doesn’t help! They don’t want older cars on the roads 😠😢
Hi, i have the same car and my problem is this: overheating sign after at least 1 hour trip when traveling on a hot summer day over 33C at 120km/h on uphill parts of a highway.After i stop and turn off the engine and continue with lower speed its fine.I have changed thermostat and still the problem remains.Also no coolant leaks.Furthermore i have changed a/c radiator a year now.Any thoughts?Thanks in advance
Hello there, This seems to be a common issue with these, as per the video really is the fan kicking in ok? And how is the heat from back of the radiator? is the top radiator hose much hotter than the bottom radiator hose?
Does your temperature light go out when you run you interior fan on full and temperatures to hot? This takes around 5 minutes for the light to go out. See how you get on with these and let me know how you get on.
Hi , I got an Ak12 uear 2004, i changed the radiator, new radiator cap as well, removed thermostat but still overheating
I know it’s hard to test, but how is the flow rate from your water pump?
Does turning the heater on full with full fan help reduce the engine temperature?
Let me know how you get on. All the best. Steve.
hello please help my march k12 starting but fails to rev and stalls . it still starts even if remove the crank sensor
Hello there, First of all you may need to get the car scanned for any codes, is the check engine light on?
I will try and help the best I can, the ECU is likely using the cam position sensor when you unplug the crank sensor along with longer crank time when you do this, I’m assuming it’s still stalling with crank unplugged?
I believe these engines run off a MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure) instead of an Air flow meter so maybe worth ensuring that this is clean it will be along the air intake manifold somewhere it could be this that’s giving the wrong information to the ECU but just a guess. When the engine idles is it idling normally?
I’m no expert in these but at least there is some things for you to look at.
Good luck. Let me know how you get on.
Steve.
clocked fuel injectors, fuel filter , fuel pump could be the likely culprit.
good diagnostics
Thank you
Looks like what came out of the radiator was just pure water not the green coolant it should have been.. probably rusted out intenals of rad. would be interesting if you took off the plastic trim off the side to get a better look...
Yes it was mostly water, not sure why as I didn’t see any leaks, unless the old cap leaked but there wasn’t any evidence of that, not on the top anyway. What plastic trim are you referring to? The plastic tank top on the actual radiator? Cheers.
the sie bitds of the radiator covered in plastic bud, you may have to break it... will help to see the radiator fins inside@@Cavalier_Steve
@mohitl1697 Yeah I may do that, it would be interesting to see what it’s like.
Nightmare getting that rad out 🙄
Yeah it should be a nice simple job.