Fast and Easy Clean Out of Condensate Lines on an Air Conditioner!
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- Опубликовано: 18 окт 2024
- In this HVAC video, I go over several easy ways to clean out the Condensate Line Trap on an Air Conditioner. A P-Trap, U-Trap, or Running Trap may clog without the preventative maintenance of cleaning the trap and line. I discuss the Emergency Condensate Safety Switch on the secondary drain pan outlet which can avoid damage from occurring if there is a problem such as a clogged condensate line. Supervision is needed by a licensed HVACR Tech while performing tasks as Experience and Apprenticeship garners Wisdom and Safety.
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Information in this video is intended for educational purposes only. Any work related to the topics in this video should be performed by licensed technicians or by apprentices under the supervision of licensed technicians. AC Service Tech LLC is not responsible for any possible damages or injuries caused by the use or misuse of any information provided.
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Retired hvac/mechanical 42 + years, native Floridian who has dealt with these issues my entire life. Best quick fix is to use a small shop vac for 2 reasons, 1- the hose end actually fits over the 3/4” line end nicely and you can feel the water/algae/ etc coming through the hose, 2- less messy and cumbersome, once cleared just take a quart or so of water with 2 oz of bleach and pour into your empty system. The small amount of house bleach will not hurt a thing along with the new water from condensation. We do this every 45 days at our residence from April until November just do to algae and particulate buildup in the lines, high humidity does not help. Hope this helps
Where do you connect the shop vac to, the inside PVC or the outside PVC where is drains to the outside?
@@funkycowboy outside
@@CampRocknRollI just unclogged my drain. I was having weak airflow. Is this a symptom of this. It seams like it’s working better.
@@CampRocknRoll I'm in a second floor condo and the HVAC is in the attic. The PVC run is probably 40 feet to the outside.
@@so-what5991 Your drain won’t affect airflow. If you have a float switch, then when it clogs it shuts the compressor down while keeping the fan on. What you’re experiencing is when the compressor is off then there’s no cooling happening and it harder to feel the air when it room temp
Been dealing with this issue for several months now. The thermostat would only power down for a few hours then kick back on, so I chalked it up to a thermostat issue. Came home last night to a very hot house and overnight the thermostat never turned back on. Came across this video after a Google search and it worked like a charm. Thermostat & ac came back on immediately so thank you for sharing!
I lived in FL for 20 years and a small shop vac connected to the outside with best way to clear the line. First pour a cup of white vinger into the inside line near the air handler and wait 5 minutes and then shop vac from the outside. Clears the line every time.
Yes that will work very well for lines that are not pitched correctly and have standing water stuck in the pvc line within the building. If the tubing is pitched correctly then only a very small amount of water will come out but if it is not pitched correctly then a lot of water will end up in the vacuum container, thanks Sam!
Thanks, Sam. I tried this before I went and bought supplies and it worked like a charm.
Lol the thought to this yesterday night just came to me and man did it work amazingly well. The gunk in pipes were no match for my 50gallon wet vac.
I tried that & it didnt work. Have > 20 feet of pipe laying nearly flat in attic. Outside with vac could suck out water but then would not drain during use.. But if I did not pour cup of vinegar down each day, water stopped draining. I used 5% & 30% vinegar every day for 3 weeks. Then BIG bubbling inside when I poured down & since then = no problems. Builder STUPID put ac in attic with no roof exhaust fan. Extra hot stress on unit. Richmond, VA can get 90-100 typical day = 135-155 in that attic.
Live in Fl and have to don this regularly
Having worked as a handyman for many years. I can say that this method is the best way to solve your problem.
I always use a wet-dry vacuum, sucks out the junk and you can clean the unit and area. carrying in a bottle a bottle of gas is another trip.
I like to use shop vac with some clear hose and use foam tape to fit the shop vac end and a little as needed to fit drain line, also can see the gunk you get out. Works great in buildings with fan coil units.
That is certainly a great way! thanks Bernie!
I subscribed and bought the e-book. I don't work in the HVAC field but have been working on my own central AC at home and this e-book is the best source of information I have come across. It's answered a lot of questions I haven't been able to find anywhere else and well worth the money. Thanks.
illegal
@@CampRocknRoll Wrong!
@@CampRocknRoll Might you elaborate? Have really appreciated all your comments so far, THANKS!
Inexpensive with lots of power. Provides cool air needed during the hot Sacramento summers!
That AC drain switch is a good idea, but be careful, I had one connected like the one shown in the video and water still leaked from the pan without shutting off the unit, because the water level raise needed to activate the cutoff switch was higher than the pan overflow. This leaking water caused considerable damage over time. The water was going into the plenum located beneath the house. Mold grew and one day we came back to our cabin and the house smelled terrible. The insulation inside the sixty foot long plenum was full of mold. It cost a lot of money to have all the insulation removed. All the air ducts and plenum then had to be cleaned.
The truck used to evacuate the plenum and duct work had a huge suction machine that pulled every lose particle out while the workers inserted spinning brushes inside the air ducts and plenum. Once clean, the plenum was sprayed with a chemical that killed the mold. The the entire House and air duct system had to be gassed with Chlorine dioxide to kill any mold in the interior. . The guys who did this wore suits and breathing gear. They looked like astronauts. The house then had to sit for three days unoccupied. The plenum was then insulated on the outside. My total cost was five thousand dollars.
I solved that switch problem on my unit by adding an offset coming directly out of the unit which allowed me to place the cutoff switch a half inch lower down. Now it works perfectly like it was designed to work.
After my experience, I would never place that cutoff switch straight out level on any unit. I also added cutoff valves and a water hose input to my drain pipe, so I can flush my entire drain pipe ( 23 feet long ) twice a year with my water hose. I never want to have another stopped up drain pipe on an air conditioner again.
Damn
I'm so happy you had all this work done. Wow, it was costly. This is another reason why I don't like Condensers on a Roof-Top. You can't get to this Unit, and it needs attention. I expected after 40 Years of Residential/Commercial A/C, that there would be little to no problems. Keep in touch.
Almost exactly what happened to me. The float was never raised by the water.
So grateful for your carefully written anecdote! THANKS!
Will be very helpful for the future. Apparently I used too much water and the A/C shut off. I called my A/C company but they could not make it out for 4 days since it's been 100+ degrees these past few days. I was going to contact my neighbor for help also but decided first to blow my box fan on the unit and within an hour, the A/C came back on. Lucky or it just cleared on it's own. But like I said, will use your helpful info in the future. Thanks; very easy to follow your instructions.
I tried a sealed hose vacuum at the outside drain for 20 minutes without resolve. Then tried from the other direction with your idea of taping a hose and it worked perfectly. Clear in 3 seconds. Used water instead of air compressor. Ran for 5 minutes to completely clean. Thx
I wanted to thank you so much ! I did have a clog. You saved me hundreds, no doubt. Thanks, guy ! Very grateful !!!
Glad it helped!
An old air mattress inflator (corrugated) tubing connected to the air compressor blower/gun sealed with duct tape does the trick too. The idea is to get into the p-trap and blow air into it.
This was the suggestion that worked for me and I will know to maintain it later. Thanks for saving me some bucks and giving me some confidence
I also use the shop vac from the outside method and let it run for several minutes. The extended run time removes more stuck-on grunge inside the pipe than a quick blast. But if you do use the blast-out method, make sure your customer is not standing anywhere near the exit end of the condensate line (unless you want an ex-customer!)
Question for you: My condensate line exits in a upstairs bathroom sink. Does that probably mean there's no way for me to do the outside shop vac method? Or is there likely another drain line exiting outside?
@@bradrobinson8326 If the drain line is accessible in the bathroom, you can hook up the shop vac there and vacuum out the line.
The shop vac will clear initial blockage, but won’t remove stuck on stuff off walls of pvc. Always good to shoot water afterwards multiple times up line and let gravity drain.
Thanks I have learned so much from your videos! This is online training at its best!
Glad to help Marcus!
Very helpful information AC Service Tech LLC, thanks! Incidentally, we have a product that protects the exterior opening on the emergency condensate lines by keeping insects out.
Well please, keep this product 100% secret! Incidentally, rumball!
Thank You for necessary advice when it comes to cleaning away algae from A/C line. This only happens when you don't use your A/C Unit during Colder Months. I add water along mixed with bleach. I was told not to use bleach, vinegar only. I used this vinegar idea, and it caused the
switch to overflow. There's so many voices, after a while who to believe? I find maintenance is getting overpriced. Maybe I'll learn to be a maintenance woman. I do it all. I just didn't clean coils, or install Units. I do the rest.
Thank You. If you have any other Excellent Suggestions, do tell.
Have fish aquariums and no one says use Vinegar to clear up algae, I would use bleach. Do it after the season on the last day. Algae does not grow where there is no light.
Anything to report 2 years later Gayle? We're new to this issue(s) & just as stymied by the conflicted choir: bleach, no bleach - vinegar, use salt!? We've read just about every comment to find no consensus, & worse, no additional advice FROM THE AUTHOR! Speak up AC Service Tech LLC! & THANKS!
I also pour a capful or two of chorine down the trap once or twice in the A/C cooling season to help prevent molds from growing in the water.
*Easy to instal **Fastly.Cool** As described.*
Excellent video. Concise and clear. THANK YOU!!
Vacuum on 1 end and flush with water other end, job done
I used a shop vac on the outlet side, cleaned the blockage right out!
replace the 90 with a T and that T with a 4 way cross . put threaded plugs on them and viola . fast multi point maint /service access . take a small flexible pvc tube , adapt it to fit a portable wet vac hose and viola , vacuum the trap then recharge it .
If you have a shop vac, set it up for water and apply vacuum to the outside drain point.
My main drain line is clogged. Could I use a shop vac to suck out the debris on the main line without damaging anything?
Thank you. Very informative. When you blew out the line, you didn't put much air volume through. How do you handle buildup below the trap?
Sweet baby Jesus! Thank you. I've been trying to make something for those t fittings.
If, instead of a first 90, a T was installed with a female adapter and 3/4 black plug, you now have a plug front and center to remove and clean the evap outlet. I use black because PVC plugs warp and cross thread. You can---for just a couple dollars more----install a deeper preformed clear trap that is outstanding and comes with a brush attached. That first T still acts like a regular 90 but now with a forward cleanout.
I assembled some fittings and flushed my line with a water hose from inside at the air handler. It pushed out a lot of powdery white stuff which I figured was drain tablets that never dissolved totally and ended up blocking the line at some point.
I installed the Cost Gard condensate drain seal on my unit which eliminates the Trap all together. So no more water sitting in a trap I have a blow through system and will never have to clean out a trap. Best alternative on the market I even did a video on it. Titled: How to never clean your AC condensate drain line.
Great Job Jonathan!
love your work. I learn something every day from your videos. If possible, could you make a video on removing/replacing slanted coils?
Thanks Sylnyia, I will keep that in mind
best way to clear a drain line is to have the p trap be removeable hence dont glue your trap into the threaded adaptor for the coil pipe seal works just fine and makes it removeable and cleanable without having to cut and re do not to mention doing it this way works on most set ups
Great video. Well thought out and consistent info and explanation.
Much appreciated!
I hooked up my vacuum hose over the trap for 2 minutes and no more leaking, I will do this weekly for preventive maintenance and also poured bleach after clearing it😎
Yes, if you are having an ongoing problem then the tube may not be pitched correctly at least 1/4" pitch downward going away from the unit, thanks!
iwinzeazy Avoid bleach. Use high acidity white vinegar instead. The reason is bleach fumes will destroy the anti-corrosive coating on the heat exchange coil inside the air handler.
best hvac channel on youtube
Thanks 1MNUTZ!
High praise from...Mr. Pink?
I recently came back to a completely clogged drain on my A/C. Tried the shop vacuum, water from the hose, etc., no go. The only thing that worked was the air compressor. Nasty crap came out all over and it had been professionally cleaned 5 months ago! Compressed air is the best, not sure about blowing air into a tube, unless it’s pretty clean already or as a preventive measure.
they have chlorine tablets to keep mold under control
I bought a drain gun with CO2 cartridges. My HVAC line is about 10 feet long from the side of the unit to my basement floor drain. Plus the builder installed a clear plastic trap that is easily removed. So I can see any debris in the trap.
Where did you get the CO2 cartridges? Do you need a license for that?
Dude, ur a lifesaver. Thnx!
Happy to help
One of the problems I've found just blowing out the p-trap is you risk pushing the debris further inside the drain without removing it. The ezt clear p-trap is by far the cleanest and easiest way to service a p-trap.
U-traps are nice. I actually linked the one you are referring to in the comment and description sections. It is weird, its one of those things. I found that customers with the U-traps that I don't have a service agreement have more problems with clogs when they forget to clean them out than p-traps but yes U-traps allow you to vac it, brush it, or blow the debris out, thanks
It breaks it up and allows it to flow through.
I love your videos.
Thanks to this video ❤ i was able to restore my ac on my own
Thanks!
There is a need to vent the drain pipe to help it drain properly. When the evaporator blower creates significant vacuum it can stop the water from flowing down the drain if there is no vent to break the vacuum force against the drain.
Does the vent need to be before ptrap or after, or does it mater at all??
The vent is after the trap.
As a USAF Civil Engineer and HVAC Tech for 35 years, he is half correct, BIG Issue i just saw was he did short blast of air. which will only push the debris down the line, and a 2nd visit will be needed. Many system have long drain lines. you need to run the air/nitrogen blast long time. get that line Clear. I should make my own channel just to show the correct way.
Furious Fill, I have a very long drain line . I was wondering about the short amount of time when he blew air into the line.
@@annamariewarren5887 if it's for your AC drain line just continue to blow through it you should feel a little resistance if it's clogged then you should feel it give way once you feel it give way then just continue to blow through it so it pushes the clog all the way out the drain line
I just add unions before and after the trap, if I have the room. If I don't have the room I'll make the room for 2. Once that's in place all you have to do every year is undo the unions and flush the trap out, after that put it back together and pour a liter of water into the pan with a small amount of simple green. The simple green mixture will then sit in the pipe and eat away any gunk if there is any in there. Also I forgot to mention I use hot water to clean the drain. I find that blowing out drains only pushes things down the line, especially with a lot of turns and bends. I like to make a process out of cleaning the drain because it's more worth taking the time then paying for a ceiling and sometimes more. Do you think I have a good process going on?
How do you clean from the inside of the unit? Right of the T? Can you get in there to clean it?
I have been doing this for years except that I use White Vinegar instead of water. Vinegar kills the stuff that grows in the drain pipe.
Do you need to turn off the AC in order to do this maintenance?
Thank you for the information
My pleasure
From years of experience just take a couple 3/4 couplings cut the trap out and wash it out with the garden hose saves a call back and insures its good to go vs pushing slime around also pour a good amount of water down the line to wash out the rest of the gunk. Just my recommendation clearing condensation lines is a low price item and you make even less money coming back to blow it out twice.
I have never blown out my trap. I just flushed down a mixture of warm water with bleach every month. Never had an issue with my AC unit for over 20 years now.
Should you see the water/vinegar drip out of the condensate pipe outside after you do this?My landlord poured vinegar down that tube and cleaned it out that way. There was no cap on my tubes.
Hi, Texas mom here, my unit does not have a cap and there is water in there and I can see black along the inside of the pvc but no globs in the water and no leaking, no problems, or anything. I maintenance my machine professionally once a year before putting on my heater, but I skipped this year. Do I need to do this? I've heard the tech guys saying to pour bleach down in there and then hot water, but my Lennox is about 30 years old and came with the house when I bought it 4 years ago and I'm afraid to do anything to it. But it's insured and whenever it goes out, we're ready to replace it, but it's still cold-cold in our Texas Summer heat, and Warm-warm right now in our baby Winters, so I don't mess with it. Haha! Any suggestions for me, besides prayer! LOL.
Did you check this video out yet- ruclips.net/video/guf3TESb3V0/видео.html
How do you get inside the other line? Where the pvc pipe attaches to the coil?
That may work, but nothing takes the place of water power. Garden hose with suicide nozzle I use every time. And shooting timed bursts multiple times into evap coil pan is a must.
Where my p trap comes up there’s no cap and it’s just cold air blowing out. I’ve read mixed things online about this. Can you please answer if it should be capped?
Outstanding video with some great tips.
Used a shop vac outside where the two drain tubes came down from ac unit and pan in attic.Use duct tape or plastic lid with hole in center to make up the difference in size and seal hose when doing.
So great very professional guide. Than You.
Thanks Medievalmusiclover!
Should the cap have a hole in it for venting?
Craig. My Trane was installed in March of 2003. The installer never put in a P Trap. However. My condensate line leaves the Air Handler, makes a 90 to the right, then a 90 down to a line that runs below the slab. Then makes a 90 and heads west (under the slab) about 15 feet where it comes up above grade and goose necks. I have rarely had any issues. Should there still be a P Trap?
i use boiling water when i do my tune ups i liked your video alot !
Can you link the size of the vinyl tubbing pls
Great info! Thank you!
Exactly where does a homeowner get the required compressed air for this easy DIY scheme.
Good video, keep up the great job!!!🙂🙂🙂
Thank you! Will do!
Miami Dade county requires a 2 inch drain line now! From the floor to the outside! Going in and going out is reduced down to three-quarter pipe
For removing the slime/blob buildup, is it ok to use bleach to clear it out the drain pipe? I hear some people say yes, others not.. because supposedly bleach can dry and build up around the inner wall of the drain pipe, therefore eventually clogging it even more?? is this true or not?
It really depends where the condensate is flowing to more so than any bleach buildup in the pipe. You could try hydrex tablets in the condensate pan if you were concerned, thanks
I’ve been getting condensation on my AC lines and even all the way to the duct work. My AC company checked it and said that everything is fine and this is normal. My AC lines on the inside of the house have been dripping water. Is this normal ?
at my girlfriends place. there is no cleanout but its clogged im sure! because its leaking. so i will install one. theres another hole next to it open though. is that a second drainage? because i see water flowing.
Thank you!
I ran a cutoff valve before my trap so I could run 100 psi through the line with no back feed issues. Blows anything out the line.
What is that cap for? I've noticed my Lennox HVAC has to pipes that point up like that without a cap.
I just looked at my system and realized that there is not a trap on the outlet side of the condensate drain. I can easily put one in but will check with my neighbors and compare.
I spliced in a hose barb and use the garden house to blow out the line. After flushing the line, I pour in some Clorox. If you don't fill int "P" trap, the dripping water will refill it.
Great video
Refrigerant Filled Tubing is making crackling noise inside in my garage next to HVAC unit. We can also hear crackling noise outside next to compressor unit. What is the cause? It constantly making noise regardless if AC is not on/off or furnace heater is on/off. Very strange. Maybe coolant in the pipes or moisture, metal contracting due to cool air?
Most of the HVAC companies in my area refuse to put a trap on the condensate line. I can feel air coming out of it. And there's no cap at the top for cleaning either. Should I have it redone?
Usually why they put on a trap is because it ties into a drain line keeps sewer gas from coming into AC unit
Once a year, I connect a wet vacuum cleaner to my drain and suck it clean. It is also in an area where it is visible to watch for it draining properly.
Cleared the line where the trap was. Didn't seem to be the problem. Water is dripping from where the unit meets the pipe connection into the pan. Is there a way to clean the area back to the unit to see if it's clogged at the unit's base?
Great video.
If there is a long drain, would that amount of time be sufficient to clean it out? Or would you have to blow it out longer?
The more water that you put into the drain before blowing it out the better. This was a shorter drain. Also if it is pitched correctly then typically there wont be a problem with clogging in the middle, thanks
I diluted a little bleach in water and blew the line several times on mine. Seems to help clean it out better for longer periods.
Mine is horizontal rather than vertical so what's the best way to use the vinegar?
Nice job and video like always
Hello, I need help on this too. For the first time, because of summer heat, there an inch of water on the water pan underneath the air handler which is sitting on a wooden pallet which then sits inside the pan. Because of that, I'm afraid the water is going to ruin the pallet. This is how the builders constructed it. It's upstairs. I had to use a small sump pump. There are 2 pipes going to the outside where they are placed near the eaves of roof. One pipe comes out of handler with the trap & cap as shown here in video. The other pipe seems to be a drain for the water pan, except I don't see it draining the pan. So should I try the mouth blowing technique shown here? I could send a photo of it for clarity. We have used a service before but it was to change the blower motor & that was a hefty $800, even after he helped with a discount. I don't want to pay for service to clean out condensate pipe because it will probably be at least $75-100 just for the visit. The pan is getting water again, so need to sump pump again. I assume the pan drain pipe is also somewhat clogged too. Please help.
Why use pipe? Why not a flexible hose? My pipe has four bends and clogged up. I've got it draining for now but there are three other ports and I'm attaching a hose to one of them.
Does every HVAC need a P-trap? My AC was not working. The technician said the condensate line is clogged and he cannot access it. So he drilled a hole on my wall and use a pipe to direct water to outside. There is no P-trap in the new setup. And now my AC runs one hour every time then rest only 20 minutes before turn on again. Even it runs almost all the time, it did not cool much. Did I hire a bad repairman?
What do you do when your attic is super hot in Florida and your ac unit is up there the refridant pipes have covers on them but the cool pipe and the heat are causing it to drip on my ceiling what do I do
If i have problems with a drain i like to install a jones valve, makes things easier
Hey I live in Florida I have a water to air ac. The water supply going in is fine but the return is low what is the best way to clean it out?
Thank you! On commercial, I usually have to open it up on both interior and exterior. Gets nasty.
Got ya, thanks!
My drain is in the attic and runs the width of the house then down the wall to the ground level. Recently ours been clogging up and water pools inside the unit. My unit is mounted on its side. I've been out the line and water comes right back in a few days. Tried hooking up the shop vac but i don't think it's strong enough because there pipe is so long. No signs of water coming out of the end of the pipe either. This concerns me. Feel liked i have a clog somewhere. Tried Drano, bleach, and vinegar. Good to know there is supposed too be water in the trap.
Yes but it should continue to flow to the end. You could try cleaning out the trap or cutting it out and replacing if that is where the clog is, thanks!
Hi, a question for ya. I haven't found it being discussed on the net and just thought throw this out here since we're talking about similar topic -- condensation line.
I notice that there're cold air blowing out of the AC drain condensation line in the attic. The air is cool up in the attic when AC is running. Don't think it should do that under normal circumstances right? The doors & air ducts are completely sealed thus I have no way to diagnose it unless I slice open the seal & tapes. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated? thnx...
Did this for years and stopped after so many drains tied into sinks below causing a blow out started using drain solve kinda nasty shit but works amazing and just chase it out with 2 gallons of water
There is a tool designed to do this job for a service technician and it uses a CO2 cartridge with a fitting that covers the tubing.
Blowing compressed air can make a clog worse, or it can even blow out the drain line completely. If you blow it out inside of a wall, you will get a leak inside the wall and ruin the drywall as well as spreading mold throughout the house. Using a low pressure vacuum is the best approach.
Why would trap be most likely dry if it's a PM? I don't get that. It should always be primed, or in the case of an air handler with it on the return side it would end up being a service call for leaking condensate.
My condensation pipe outside house is dripping water. It stops drips may be 2 gallons then stops sometimes for a day or 2 and repeats. What is going on here? What can I do to fix this?
What's a safe Psi to use?
What size vinyl tubing do you suggest?
Thanks you for this wonderful video. What pipes do you recommend for installing the condensate lines, 3/4" or 1/2"? Thanks.
Usually 3/4 is connected to your evaporator coil drain and 1/2" is connected to the furnace drain but you could make that bigger if needed. If it is light commercial and a large unit then 1" would come off the drain, thanks