How to Replace the Control Arm (Passenger Side) on a 2010 Subaru Outback
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Easy to follow step-by-step guide on how to replace the (passenger/right side control arm on your car. If you have any questions, drop them in the comments below and I'll get back to you.
Tools Used:
-Pry bar.
-Ball peen hammer.
-3lbs hammer.
-Punch.
-Brass punch.
-1/2in impact.
-32mm socket.
-19mm socket.
-17mm flex socket.
-17mm standard socket.
-1/2in extension.
-14mm socket.
-3/8in extension.
-14mm socket.
-19mm wrench.
-Two different 17mm wrench.
-Two different length 3/8in ratchet.
-6mm alen wrench socket.
-Water pump pliers.
-A block of wood.
-Anti seize.
Part Used (front passenger/right side):
-Control arm w/ball joint (brand used: Autozone part# CA12642 [CA126411 LEFT]).
As always make sure you subscribe, give me the thumbs up, and share with your friends & family! Thanks for watching, aloha!
P.S. Completed the right side yesterday and struggled to get the control arm back in without removing the axle. I didn't however have to remove the axle completely, I simply took the spindle/axle nut off and that gave me enough clearance to pull the strut assembly out a bit more and get the control arm in. This is a relatively easy job especially on a Florida car with little rust.
This is the video that saved my bacon - I struggled and struggled trying to get the rear vertical mount bolt to slide through the bushing and mount holes - The control arm needs to be perfectly horizontal to slide into the rear mount for the bolt holes / bushing hole to line up - YOU NEED TO PULL THE AXLE FROM THE HUB so you can move the strut out of the way to make this alignment possible - Roy shows this - do not try to skip this step :)
Glad I could help, thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
You do not need to to pull the axle out. I just did it yesterday. What i did was slide the front bushing bolt and ball joint bolt on and hand tighten the nuts. I then aligned the rear bushing enough for me to slide the bolt in. You then use a trolley jack slid in from the front of vehicle until centered and jack up slowly until parallel with floor while tapping the bolt up until all the way through.
@@rcl300018 seems simpler to just remove the axle nut.
@roysgarage808 I know it’s been a while but could I replace the cv axel while doing this? Thanks
Thank you for the video on this repair. It was very helpful to me in replacing the control arms. You saved me $600.
Pro work start to finish. Great video! Thank you.
Thanks for watching 🤙
Great detailed video Roy. This fits more of 2014 Subaru Outback limited too. Thank you. I envy you where the pinch bolt and rear bolt came out without a hitch, or little of it.. This northeastern NY glue (rust) is giving me a heck of a challenge. So far I broke a breaker bar and pliers. By the way, heating the area just made the bolt head softer... so had to deal with rounded heads. Overcome, adapt, or get a bigger torch and 1" drive impact wrench.
Same as Minnesota I can do it but a lot harder with rusty!
@@stevesilver7437 Be careful in removing the pinch bolt, bolt holding the ball joint, the rust makes those bolt easier to break. Purchase a new one before starting. I ended up replacing the knuckle too. I could not remove the ball joint or the pinch bolt with out using an air hammer, 3 lb sledge, heat and lots of oil penetrant.
Georgia too it's very humid and lots of water, and nearly broke the the bolt but decided to let kroil do the work for me a little, but the rear bolt is stuck like chuck so I'm letting the penetrant work over night and try tomorrow, but got most of all the nuts and bolts undone, the ball joint and rear bolt still giving me hell ,damn rust, lol.
Much appreciated for the well instructed video! 🔌
Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Thank you so much for the detail video. The video shooting angle is great, it is easy to understand Luckily I did not remove the axle nut, just lift up the brake pad cover. It gave me enough room to wiggle in the rear brushing and other points.(follows you video). Job is nicely done.
Love this video. Thank You. I did not take the axle off and while it was a PIA to get the new control arm on, it is doable.
Very good instruction. Thank you very much!
Great video. I'm about to save myself hundreds of dollars by doing this myself. Thanks. Perfectly done
Let me know how it goes! Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Mahalo Uncle!!
So easy this!
We have to torch the rear of control arm and bushing, cut off remaining rubber and heat inner bushing to red hot. Then clamp inner bushing with vise grip as you try to spin the large bolt out of bushing. Needless to say you need new bolt too. Minnesota rust!
THANKS 🙏 FOR YOUR VIDEO SO EASY OAH
Lucky you, all your bolts came out one shot without any rusting or anything like that anti-seize and penetrating oil only get you so far, you must be in a dry climate
very good job 😍😍😍🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏👍👍👍👍
The ball joint on yours looked pretty easy to move, just got mine from rock auto and its firm not sure it rhe channel lock would be able to move it
Can someone please explain why the axle has to be removed? Is there not enough clearance?
You have a Snap-On floor jack but not a Snap-On Subaru ball-joint puller.
Hahah yes, I just keep using my tools until I can’t, the floor Jack is fairly new. Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Hi Roy. I did this job and now i can't drive the car. My right wheel is turened almost 3/4 to the right and my left wheel is about 1/8 turned to the left. What should I do? Please help thanks.
Hi, Great video. What is the reason for using the jack to jack up the wheel spindle under the ball joint. thanks
Great question, the reasoning behind the jack is to keep the spindle and axel in place while removing the control arm. If you do not jack it up, you have to be really careful not to accidentally pull out the axel from the inner joint, then you got a bigger problem. I hope that answers your question and thanks for watching! 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
@@RoysGarage808 thanks that makes sense. Was also wondering why the jack is put in place after placing the new control arm on before you tighten the bushing bolts
Is there a reason why you removed the axle as you already got the control arm out before removing it?
When you install the new arm you need to lift up the control arm so you can bolt the arm to the frame. Thanks for watching 🤙👍🤙
Thanks for the reply!
But couldn't you just put the ball joint end in first and then put the other side in without having to remove the axle?
What do I do if the boat that connects the control arm to the chassis is seas with rust and corrosion without bending the frame due to over heating
The first problem I see is that you have a boat attached to the control arm. That's never a good thing. The second issue is that you have the sea and rust on your car. My suggestion is that you keep your car and boat apart from one another and that the boat stays in the water, while the car stays on land.
Whatdud you torque it all up to?
Roy: 'What's a torque?"
Hey Roy, I’m in the middle of this project. I get on LCA back on and the drivers side won’t reach the knuckle by a full inch. I noticed my wheels are waaay off alignment now. Both pointing inward. How do I get this back together?
I found out I pulled my cv joint apart. Now the project has become longer. Oh well…
If you could match the old controll arm with the new. Also call the part store to see if you have the right parts.
The new arms should match up with the old arms.
Roy, somebody is linking porn websites in your comment section. I have reported this to RUclips.
🤣😂🤣
Awesome video. I just did this on my 2010 Outback in conjunction with wheel bearing hub. Now when I drive it, I get a pop when I turn right or accelerator from a dead stop. It sounds like it's coming from the rear of the control arm because I can hear it thru the passenger floorboard. Everything is tight. Do you have any idea what that could be?
Without actually hearing and seeing the car, I would say check your CV joint. It could be that your axel is worn out. Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
@@RoysGarage808 I found out it was the rear control arm bolt. Even though it was torqued to specs, it still moved. Monster man torque solved that. Thanks for replying.