1:21 you say „it steps like crazy“. I‘m having this same issue while calibrating. It‘s really annoying if you have to calibrate a lot of lenses. I never saw another youtuber complaing about this. So thank you 😅 Firmware updates didn‘t fix it… Is there somebody else having this issue or just us?
You're welcome! Mine actually stopped doing the stepping thing but has a bunch of new problems. I'm not sure what I did to stop it, but did you update your motors' firmware? I'm running it alongside RS4 Pro and DJI Transmission, maybe one of those factored into solving the issue..
@ actually I just tested it again and yes it works for the frist time 🙈, but yeah I‘m also having issues with switch between the Grip (handheld) and RS 4 Pro (Gimbal). It detects „inconsistent firmware“ even though I‘m on the newest firmware on everything. Once it even deleted all of my lens profiles. And it‘s also a bit a bummer that you can only use 3 profiles on the gimbal. I started using the handgrip as a second grip on the gimbal with longer usb-c cables. What are your new problems?
@@philipvivarelli Ugh I hate that deletion of lens profiles too! It's so frustrating when you prep the day before and on the shoot day everything's gone. Just that alone is a big red flag. We should be able to trust our gear!
@@kevinmpham yeah, this happened to me the last week on the gimbal… I was lucky having an autofocus lens with me but my camera (Lumix S1H) isn‘t known for having good autofocus, so the results were pretty bad.
you don't have to be exact on 1m and 4m like the previous version. it will now automatically calibrate in the ranges it specifies (it does it exactly based on the lidar distance. That is very helpful since when it says to focus and it jumps, so you can move the camera if you can't get tack sharp using the + and - on the screen. Also, it means you can focus your lens that has a minimum focus of 1.5m
@@joaquinperalba1624 So yeah, I managed to trick it into accepting the 135, by means of sliding the camera back and forth on the tripod plate to get underneath 1.45m. It's not perfectly sharp at minimum focus but it's close enough, and seems to focus on distant things alright.
For those who can't calibrate with dslr lenses....you cant, don't waste your time you need to do manual hard stops with the ring of your lens for the focus calibration to work. The system works best with cine lenses or lenses with a focus hard stop. Dont waste your time trying. \m/\m/
Hi, question, if anyone knows. I'm trying to calibrate a 50mm Full Frame prime lens on a Blackmagic Camera (Super 35 Sensor). Do I set the millimeters to 50 on the lidar since it's a 50mm lens or should I set it to what a 50mm would be on a crop sensor (I think it turns out to be a 75mm). Does that make sense? let me know. Thanks
Hi Kevin thx for doing this…what did you mean pixel pixel mode. I use the outline focus tool on my Komodo so just wondering you meant. Maybe it’s the monitor focusing tool you are referring to. Thx!!
You got it! Pixel to Pixel means displaying the pixels on your monitor as they are, without downscaling, which is a fancy way of saying magnifying in on the image to check critical focus. Thanks for tuning in!
Hi tanks for your video, I have same lens combo and I have troubleshoot also with focus pro. Does the autocalibration let you reach the infinity mark ? Because on 4 on my lens me not. I add lens to the calibration process, it start auto calibration and find good endpoint but after that in af or mf impossible to reach the true infinity mark. no problem in manual endpoint but for the lidar function library you can only make autocalibration focus.
Hey Johan :P when it works, it works alright, sometimes it doesn't want to minimum focus which is frustrating. Half of the time I use it, I want to throw it in the trash. Calibration is also not a one-and-done thing, but something you should do before every shoot since they corrupt over time.
thanks, have you tried a closer distance, even if it's out of focus, just to determine what is the minimum operating distance to proceed with the second point? I'd really like to know since one of my lenses is very close to 1,5m
Hey Pablo, thanks for writing in. I tried going in at 1.4m and even though the image was out of focus it would not let me proceed onto the 4m step of calibration. To me, this is a huge red flag. A lot of old tele lenses are around the 1.5m CF mark, and probably some old anamorphics too.
@@kevinmpham thanks for your reply, my Canon nFD has a mfd of 1.2 so I really hope I could use it. hope they fix it or improve it in a future firmware update
Obviously with AF lenses it’s going to be the fastest swap, but if you’re rocking a wireless follow focus system, it’s going to be about the same time for swap: disengage motor, swap lens, motor calibration. Only added step is to choose the lens profile you have saved on the unit.
@@kevinmpham hope you can make a comparison in those 2 setups. no one shows how its done in actual whole video how they change lenses in a scenarios like going from a wide shot to a medium or closeup shots with a model/subject in front of them
Hi Kevin, thanks for the very informative video. I own a set of vintage Zeiss ZE Classic lenses (next gen from the Contax Zeiss line-up). I was planning on selling them because the focus throw on the barrel is quite small, around 90 degrees on some of the lenses and because the 4 meter mark on this lenses is like just a couple millimetres away from the infinity mark, which means that from 4 meters to infinity there's almost no barrel travel, making them un-precise. Have you experienced this to be a problem so far? Do lenses need to have a longer focus throw to be more precise when using the Lidar? Thanks!
Hi Manuel, thanks for watching. A few of my Contaxes have infinity really close to 2m and it seems to perform fine! I’m really bummed out that I can’t calibrate my lenses longer than 100mm though. Also I’m finding there’s a lot of things I don’t like, but I think the technology is really great.
Hope you see this comment , DJI transmission question Do you have only one attenna intentionally like to save battery if that’s a thing ? Curious since I was thinking of doing that
Hi there! I haven’t noticed anything battery wise, but in short distances it seems to work just fine. Often when I’m on gimbal I only have two antennae on the TX.
@@kevinmpham ah yes the gimbal imbalance , same here, thank you for reply! i was worried it wouldn't work but glad it does with only two! Also maybe now i won't bump my hand onto the side antennas lol
Thank you for the walk through. I just picked up the RS4 Pro and hopefully will get the lidar for it soon. I was wondering if you know how easy it is to go between using the RS4 with lidar to the Focus Pro off the gimbal? I’m assuming the lens motor would hold the data & you just need to switch the handle? Any experience with this? At the moment I’m using the PD movie lidar and it’s great but it doesn’t have as much range as I would like. Also the face tracking alone seems worth the upgrade. Have you tried any zoom lenses? I created 2 profiles for my 18-35 (one at 18 & one at 35) as a work around on the PD movie. Is this possible on the DJI system, or is it even necessary?
Hey Anthony, thanks for tuning in. Congrats on your RS4P! Sadly I don't have a RS4 here I could test the LIDAR with. According to Cine Dailies, you're right in that the lens motor is storing the calibration data. Face tracking is weird, I'll cover it in a future post, but once your subject leaves frame for about 10 seconds, the focus square will reset itself, lol. I don't have any zoom lenses I can test, but I also recall Cine Dailies saying the zoom and iris profiles are separate from the focus ones, so perhaps if you stored both zoom and focus data for the 18-35, you could switch between them easily.
Hey again Anthony. I connected my LIDAR unit with my side handle without the focus motor (the USB-C cable fried for some reason) and I was able to access all of my lens profiles. I think the profiles are stored in the LIDAR.
3 месяца назад
If the lens is listed in the pre-defined profiles in the app, does it mean we don't need to calibrate it?
Hi Roman! Thank you, just trying to get it to work :P The AF is pretty good when it works, there are things I wish it did like waiting a lot longer before it resets. There's nothing like in body AF if you can deal with the lenses. It should be stated for the record though that I don't have any AF bodies or lenses, like a Sony FX or something.
1:21 you say „it steps like crazy“. I‘m having this same issue while calibrating. It‘s really annoying if you have to calibrate a lot of lenses. I never saw another youtuber complaing about this. So thank you 😅
Firmware updates didn‘t fix it… Is there somebody else having this issue or just us?
You're welcome! Mine actually stopped doing the stepping thing but has a bunch of new problems. I'm not sure what I did to stop it, but did you update your motors' firmware? I'm running it alongside RS4 Pro and DJI Transmission, maybe one of those factored into solving the issue..
@ actually I just tested it again and yes it works for the frist time 🙈, but yeah I‘m also having issues with switch between the Grip (handheld) and RS 4 Pro (Gimbal). It detects „inconsistent firmware“ even though I‘m on the newest firmware on everything. Once it even deleted all of my lens profiles. And it‘s also a bit a bummer that you can only use 3 profiles on the gimbal. I started using the handgrip as a second grip on the gimbal with longer usb-c cables. What are your new problems?
@@philipvivarelli Ugh I hate that deletion of lens profiles too! It's so frustrating when you prep the day before and on the shoot day everything's gone. Just that alone is a big red flag. We should be able to trust our gear!
@@kevinmpham yeah, this happened to me the last week on the gimbal… I was lucky having an autofocus lens with me but my camera (Lumix S1H) isn‘t known for having good autofocus, so the results were pretty bad.
you don't have to be exact on 1m and 4m like the previous version. it will now automatically calibrate in the ranges it specifies (it does it exactly based on the lidar distance. That is very helpful since when it says to focus and it jumps, so you can move the camera if you can't get tack sharp using the + and - on the screen. Also, it means you can focus your lens that has a minimum focus of 1.5m
Thanks Dave, I'm gonna try this and if it works post an update!
Any update on this? Thanks.
@@joaquinperalba1624 So yeah, I managed to trick it into accepting the 135, by means of sliding the camera back and forth on the tripod plate to get underneath 1.45m. It's not perfectly sharp at minimum focus but it's close enough, and seems to focus on distant things alright.
For those who can't calibrate with dslr lenses....you cant, don't waste your time you need to do manual hard stops with the ring of your lens for the focus calibration to work. The system works best with cine lenses or lenses with a focus hard stop. Dont waste your time trying. \m/\m/
Hi, question, if anyone knows. I'm trying to calibrate a 50mm Full Frame prime lens on a Blackmagic Camera (Super 35 Sensor). Do I set the millimeters to 50 on the lidar since it's a 50mm lens or should I set it to what a 50mm would be on a crop sensor (I think it turns out to be a 75mm). Does that make sense? let me know. Thanks
I believe the length you set it to is only a tag and does not bear any influence on performance.
Thanks, man. So how to calibrate 135mm if the range limit is 100? Could you explain here again because I don't want to make mistakes.
You're welcome, just calibrate it as normal. The 100 will just be the "name" of the lens profile.
@@kevinmpham, thank you very much. ☺️
Been waiting for my lidar combo for almost 3 month now😢
Hyped on the Pham Channel!
BUSTED
I got it but cant get my focus motor to calibrate with my sigma 18-35 😢 i think this is easier wirh a cine lens
Depending on the camera it might not be possible as that's a lens designed for photography so it doesn't have hard stops or a linear focus throw
You have to add your own hard stop on the focus ring. That's how I solved it with sigma art zooms.
How do you add your own hard stops?
Hi Kevin thx for doing this…what did you mean pixel pixel mode. I use the outline focus tool on my Komodo so just wondering you meant. Maybe it’s the monitor focusing tool you are referring to. Thx!!
You got it! Pixel to Pixel means displaying the pixels on your monitor as they are, without downscaling, which is a fancy way of saying magnifying in on the image to check critical focus. Thanks for tuning in!
Hi tanks for your video, I have same lens combo and I have troubleshoot also with focus pro. Does the autocalibration let you reach the infinity mark ? Because on 4 on my lens me not. I add lens to the calibration process, it start auto calibration and find good endpoint but after that in af or mf impossible to reach the true infinity mark. no problem in manual endpoint but for the lidar function library you can only make autocalibration focus.
Interesting, I’ve also had the reverse problem where it won’t let me reach minimum focus. It’s kinda annoying!
Oh yes ? less annoying but still strange for sure. on all your lenses ?
@@valentindaude I believe it was on the lens that had a minimum focus of closer to 1.5 meters
Would you recommend it after a few months of use? :) how does it focus on objects/ general focus except for faces?
Hey Johan :P when it works, it works alright, sometimes it doesn't want to minimum focus which is frustrating. Half of the time I use it, I want to throw it in the trash. Calibration is also not a one-and-done thing, but something you should do before every shoot since they corrupt over time.
thanks, have you tried a closer distance, even if it's out of focus, just to determine what is the minimum operating distance to proceed with the second point? I'd really like to know since one of my lenses is very close to 1,5m
Hey Pablo, thanks for writing in. I tried going in at 1.4m and even though the image was out of focus it would not let me proceed onto the 4m step of calibration. To me, this is a huge red flag. A lot of old tele lenses are around the 1.5m CF mark, and probably some old anamorphics too.
@@kevinmpham thanks for your reply, my Canon nFD has a mfd of 1.2 so I really hope I could use it. hope they fix it or improve it in a future firmware update
@@PabloDeBiasi I think 1.2 should be alright actually! Unless it's 100mm or longer...
What happens if you want to focus at Infinity?
@@AKGreen Use the AMF mode and manually rack to infinity
can you change lenses as fast as without lidar? if not its better to get a mirrorless camera with pdaf+AF lenses.
Obviously with AF lenses it’s going to be the fastest swap, but if you’re rocking a wireless follow focus system, it’s going to be about the same time for swap: disengage motor, swap lens, motor calibration. Only added step is to choose the lens profile you have saved on the unit.
@@kevinmpham hope you can make a comparison in those 2 setups. no one shows how its done in actual whole video how they change lenses in a scenarios like going from a wide shot to a medium or closeup shots with a model/subject in front of them
I just bought one and I noticed the camera mic catches the noise of the lens spinning…Does anyone having the same problem?
What's your setup?
@ lumixS52 and 7artisan cine lens
Hi Kevin, thanks for the very informative video. I own a set of vintage Zeiss ZE Classic lenses (next gen from the Contax Zeiss line-up). I was planning on selling them because the focus throw on the barrel is quite small, around 90 degrees on some of the lenses and because the 4 meter mark on this lenses is like just a couple millimetres away from the infinity mark, which means that from 4 meters to infinity there's almost no barrel travel, making them un-precise. Have you experienced this to be a problem so far? Do lenses need to have a longer focus throw to be more precise when using the Lidar? Thanks!
Hi Manuel, thanks for watching. A few of my Contaxes have infinity really close to 2m and it seems to perform fine! I’m really bummed out that I can’t calibrate my lenses longer than 100mm though. Also I’m finding there’s a lot of things I don’t like, but I think the technology is really great.
Hope you see this comment ,
DJI transmission question
Do you have only one attenna intentionally like to save battery if that’s a thing ? Curious since I was thinking of doing that
Hi there! I haven’t noticed anything battery wise, but in short distances it seems to work just fine. Often when I’m on gimbal I only have two antennae on the TX.
@@kevinmpham ah yes the gimbal imbalance , same here, thank you for reply! i was worried it wouldn't work but glad it does with only two! Also maybe now i won't bump my hand onto the side antennas lol
@@DanielSag-r7y Check out ignite digi's low profile antennae!
Thank you for the walk through. I just picked up the RS4 Pro and hopefully will get the lidar for it soon. I was wondering if you know how easy it is to go between using the RS4 with lidar to the Focus Pro off the gimbal? I’m assuming the lens motor would hold the data & you just need to switch the handle? Any experience with this? At the moment I’m using the PD movie lidar and it’s great but it doesn’t have as much range as I would like. Also the face tracking alone seems worth the upgrade. Have you tried any zoom lenses? I created 2 profiles for my 18-35 (one at 18 & one at 35) as a work around on the PD movie. Is this possible on the DJI system, or is it even necessary?
Hey Anthony, thanks for tuning in. Congrats on your RS4P! Sadly I don't have a RS4 here I could test the LIDAR with. According to Cine Dailies, you're right in that the lens motor is storing the calibration data. Face tracking is weird, I'll cover it in a future post, but once your subject leaves frame for about 10 seconds, the focus square will reset itself, lol. I don't have any zoom lenses I can test, but I also recall Cine Dailies saying the zoom and iris profiles are separate from the focus ones, so perhaps if you stored both zoom and focus data for the 18-35, you could switch between them easily.
Hey again Anthony. I connected my LIDAR unit with my side handle without the focus motor (the USB-C cable fried for some reason) and I was able to access all of my lens profiles. I think the profiles are stored in the LIDAR.
If the lens is listed in the pre-defined profiles in the app, does it mean we don't need to calibrate it?
I've read reports of those pre-defined profiles not being completely accurate, and I don't own any of the lenses to test. YMMV!
Hey man, great video, thank you! How is the AF in your opinion compared to like mirrorless cameras?
Hi Roman! Thank you, just trying to get it to work :P
The AF is pretty good when it works, there are things I wish it did like waiting a lot longer before it resets. There's nothing like in body AF if you can deal with the lenses. It should be stated for the record though that I don't have any AF bodies or lenses, like a Sony FX or something.
Thanks!
What parts are you using to rig the lidar on top of your Red?
Hey boss, check my other uploaded video, there's a breakdown there.
Hey Kevin! Great video :) Are you based in Vienna? (Im from England but moved to Vienna a few years ago :)
Can it be used with af lenses if I put them in mf mode?
I think it can, you have to set hard stops manually though. I don't have any AF lenses to test this.