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Fatal Flaw? SeeMeCNC Orion 3D Printer Review
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- Опубликовано: 17 авг 2024
- If you've ever wondered what I thought of the SeeMeCNC Orion delta 3d printer, you're in luck! This is my official review of the printer. What did I like? What don't I like? Watch and find out!
#3dprinting #3dprinter #review
Buy a SeeMeCNC Printer:
Rostock MAX V2: 3d.pn/rostock
Rostock MAX V2 kit: 3d.pn/rostockkit
Orion: 3d.pn/orion
Eris: 3d.pn/eris
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I just finished making my own Delta printer, and once it's tuned, it's so much better than a typical cartisian setup. Both have pros and cons. IMO it's the next step for more experienced users should get their hands dirty with.
That was one really good review! Also super helpful for SeeMeCNC since you discovered a reproducible problem with their printer, I'm sure they'll find a way to fix it :)
I already ordered Original Prusa i3 mk2, but this printer costs almost exactly the same (pre-built) and you made me think about my deccision! They both have cons and positives, I'm curious to see how they both do on the market.
Yeah, this is why the Rostock max has the filament on the top. The bowden tube feeds down through the middle of the top plate right into the top of the extruder. It's near impossible to catch the cheapskates at that angle. So, if support can help you with longer wires for the driver motor and such to move at least the driver and the start of the bowden tube up top, and then probably just simply drill a big enough hole in the top plate for the bowden tube to fit, you can easily fix the problem!
Good luck man, looks like a super awesome printer otherwise!
i think it would be better to put the stepper Motor for the Filament on the top of the Printer
I thought about that, and the Rostock MAX has that. It could be switched
+3D Printing Nerd jup but modding our Printer is a part of our hobby ☺
I was about to put the same comment. Now I'm sad, no not really. Where is my damn sandwich?
The absolute best 3d printer reviews on youtube. Keep em coming! Also would love it if you could do more Delta's please!
at 6:43 when the side glosses in the light you can see that the surface is all wobbly, im guessing its because deltas have problems dealing with straight surfaces as the movement is a combinations of all axes moving
you could leave a zip tie loosely on one of the arms around the Bowden tube so it guide the tube down a bit so it does not get suck
Very interesting review!
But wonder, how well this machine handles low layer heights 0.1-0.15mm?
I am glad this review came out. I was going to ask when it was going to come out because I know you had an issue, and here it is! I'm in the market for a Delta so hopefully this will make things easier on my decision.
I got a message from SeeMeCNC and they are currently fixing the issues I spoke of! No joke!
I told you that you would love it. I even sent you a message to help you get it re-callibrated so you could use it. I'm glad to see you got to experience the pleasure of printing with a delta.
I *DO* love it. It's a great machine!
Should be no problem coming up with some mods to resolve those couple issues. Looks like a great printer.
the other reason that a delta can print faster is that the motion is vertical rather than horizontal so their is less mass moving side to side meaning it can stop faster than a core xy
I wish the let you post pictures with the comments I printed the Tardis to test the Flashforge Finder on standard settings (flashprint ) and it turned out magnificent and flawless !
Great review man. I am taking tips from you on how to review things ha-ha. A lot more reviews coming to my channel soon.
That's great! Tips from me? Man... be careful :) All I do is talk about stuff and mention things I would want to know if I was watching a review :)
I think the bodentube should come out at the middle top plate to prevent that issue and have enough slack and to go around maybe :/ awesome printer still though :D
Nice review! We have been thinking about getting a delta style printer....Glad to hear that you approve!
Hey Joel now you need to get your hands on Rostock max! I love mine. It's been a great printer and no works with the feed tube getting stuck in the cheap skate.
A small modification of a couple of holes in the top and some surgical tubing will fix that issue. With delta printers, you have to really think outside of the box. But on the other hand DIY kits really aren't for people starting out in 3D printing.
I've looked at other deltas and they have the bowden tube extend up through the top plate. I can't understand why they didn't design it that way, it seems to make more sense.
I have used the Orion at my job and it is a nice printer but i 100% agree with you on the filament guiding and the tube getting caught -_- it is a lil bit of a pain! I guess like anything else its an easy mod with say rubber bands and so on. My other grumble is the SHARP angle the bowden tube is at at the top. Kinking the tube like that adds LOTS of friction compared to say an Ultimaker or other bowden machines.
In the end no printer is perfect :) but for the price it is nice.
Really wish I figured out about the quarterly printer give away a week ago...
I had same problem with Bowden tube catching on some prints. simple fix I just secured tube to top with elastic band that keeps it pulled upwards lightly. no Moe problem.
+oceandesign2 no Moe? ;)
typing on phone, missed the "r" not intended:)
High five Joel. Best video in ages, thanks. synchronicity is and album by the Police, in fact they did two!
DANG IT. Okay, I didn't make up a word :)
A word or warning though, for people who are planing to use a delta style printer for prototyping or anything that requires precise measurement. Delta style printers struggles on printing dimensionally accurate things. Even the commercial ones still have this issue. And you can't compensate it, the only thing that can fix this issue is to make sure the printer is extremely precisely built, and if it isn't then you practically need to rebuild it. Even then it still struggles.
Cartesian style printers are much, MUCH more simple to fix, since you only need to adjust one setting for each axis.
there's a good reason why most deltas put the filament feed at the top...
Do you have a link for the tardis? Also, loved the failed rocket in the background.
would adding two beams for the tube to move up and down freely but restrict left and right movement help
So can the extruder temp be adjusted from the printer or only from the slicer program. Its very helpful to be able to make fine temp adjustments to the extruder when ujsing alot of different filiment with the same G code files. Seems like some simple skid plate could be printed and snpaed in place to keep the boden tube from haning up.
Yes, the front LCD panel contains the usual assortment of adjustments. As for the bowden tube - they are working on a permanent fix that will be implemented!
Comparison to the FLSun Delta would be a nice update to this.
Do you know how to fix the problem where sharp corners end up with a small amount of extra material on them rounding them off?
"I may have just made up a word." HAHAHAHA Classic Joel.
Wow, surprised you were able to repeat the carriage issue.
Great video, really enjoyed it. I think they should make the effector with a more sturdy material. My delta printers have a PLA printed effector and I have never experienced this issue. Also, it looks like the PTFE tube might be too short to allow the nozzle to go all the way to the left side of the bed and then straight up without pulling on the hotend and causing it to tilt.
The effector is injection molded glass-filled nylon. The part that bent was the delrin "barbell" (it's got a little ball on either end) that the arms clip on to. (It's a ball & socket joint - balls on the effector, sockets on the arm ends.)
+f15sim crap. my bad, sorry.
There's nothing to apologize for - you simply didn't know what it was made of. No harm, no foul. :) The cool thing about all of SeeMeCNC's printers is that all the plastic components used are injection molded, not printed. They not only design & manufacture their own injection molds, they also make the parts using their own injection molding machines. It's all done at their shop in Goshen, Indiana. If you're ever in the neighborhood, stop by - they'll be happy to give you a tour of the place. (I should plug the Midwest RepRap Festival too - they sponsor that and it's awesome!)
f15sim I live in Australia, so I won't ever happen to be in that area :P Would've liked to come by to check it out though.
I've had an Orion for about 2 years and never ever had the cables catch on the arms. If you set it up correctly they don't catch even at max ranges. I've installed a few mods and totally replaced the original cable/Bowden harness from scratch .. if you do it correctly, length and the Bowden exits the mesh at the right point it doesn't catch. I did design and print a new adaptor plate that replaces the top wooden one and it holds the cables differently and keeps it centred, I done this to speed up the printer but it has the bonus side effect of keeping the harness well away from the arms.Agreed not keen on the filament mount but the filament routing does work and it looks worse than it is.. it's never bound up on me or restricted feed.Forgot how awful they sound without the Astrosyn dampers installed.One thing which is pretty important is it's open source and Arduino based so very easy to modify the code etc.I find ABS much better than PLA on this printer and get much crisper prints on the Orion with ABS.Overall the Orions generally work straight out of the box but do have a learning curve.. their accuracy bridging ability is superb.. only downside is the 150mm diameter build area which can be restrictive but they sell a bigger model.
Thanks for your advice and thoughts. Oooh, ABS over PLA on this printer?
Yes ABS is much trickier to dial in as it shrinks more than PLA and therefore if you don't get it stuck down properly it can lift/let go dependant on the part shape and fill density etc, you'll definitely fail a few times (you wont use enough glue, to high a Z axis zero and the wrong temps) till you get it sorted and many people often give up due to this. If your printing in a cold draughty room i'd use PLA but if your somewhere nice and warm or build an enclosure then ABS is IMO better usually. I tend to print functional parts so the added strength of ABS helps (you can get more delamination issues with PLA )... eg the Adaptor plate I printed (100% infill) couldn't really be done in PLA as it needs to be strong and as temp resistant as possible.PLA is much easier to stick to the bed but stringing/gobbing is an more of an issue with PLA (hence the burned bits or small nodules you get and stringing is definitely worse hence why you get better prints right off the build plate in ABS with generally no after work tclean up.. with ABS shrinkage needs to be taken into account for tight fit functional parts however and I find is normally ~1-3% dependant on ABS type/fill density/fill style so i'll scale accordingly in the relevant axis.ABS is harder to learn to print with (keep it stuck down and account for shrinkage for functional parts) imo its why they send you PLA in the box but get the temps etc correct for your ABS and get it stuck down properly then generally I find better quality prints and acetone vapour is sometimes useful if I want a fine finish or water tight something in ABS.. now I think about it I've not used PLA for over a year. Though many people do swear by PLA and produce really nice prints with it especially the Seemecnc staff/support people.
Ohh and don't switch off the printer while it's running like you do in the video. Not a good idea turning off the heat break fan without allowing the hot end to cool down first.. it's set to switch off @ 50 DegC so wait until then or you can melt/damage the heat break :) .
Very helpful review, thank you!
Is that MC Lars at the end?
SeeMeCNC if you have an orion that can get me started, I would love to use it to get myself up and running in the near future.. and pay you a royalty for everything I create with it.
so do you think lulzbot mini vs this, which better ?
If I wanted to buy a delta from your links how would I give you credit? Do you recommend the He 3D K200 Sinlge?
Maybe look into moving the extruder motor setup to the top platform the way the Rostock Max v2 has it mounted? Then your filament roll can stay where it is and feed up to the top platform and straight down. I've never experienced any bowden tube snags with my Rostock Max v2. Then again I'm not sure if the top plate of the Orion is solid/stable enough to add the extruder weight? Idk just a thought.
Are you still running orion 2? I'm pulling mine out of mothballs (AKA 9 years in 50-120F garage)
Any advice on upgrades, maintainence or current software?
@@cartermclaughlin2908 Nope, sorry, I haven't run any delta printers in a few years now.
@@secretagb Thank you for replying to such an old thread!
Do you have any recommendations for community websites, new model repositories, or well organized (esp software) educational material? The (Orion maker) SeeMeCNC website was moderately active when I was printing but the company appears to have suffered a death and other attrition and appears to just be a clearance sales site now despite a fairly recent printer release.
I believe a couple money rubber bands tied to the cheapskates and the bowden tube would suffice to keep the latter in a safe position...
Would be fantastic if you could do a build/review on one of the printers from thingiverse, not much documentation on them. High five👏
So that is why my Extruder Moter is on top of my Griffin 3D Delta....
Great video! Are you planning on getting the wanhao duplicator i3 PLUS ?
+Benoît Lagasse Yes!
Guys, i cant understand how deltas handle overhags without some cooling around nozzle, can someone give explanation?
Delta printers have turbo fans that blow air around the nozzle :)
a short length of ninjaflex. one overhand knot around tube and one end secured to one delta arm and the other end to the other arm it's next to.
flexible string also will work.
Yes, a short length of elastic cord to keep the feed tube centered between the feed arms so it doesn't get stuck on one.
Could you review the Wanhao i3 plus please?
huh... funny u say that.. i herd the same but after setup and calibration, it just works. even running marlin RC5 at the moment. so i can say for the money, its actually decent IMO. iv had a few different printers and have found my mendel90 and the Folgertech kossel2020 work the best.
That's great! I really want to get my hands on a Folgertech so I can see for myself! Hopefully soon!
+3D Printing Nerd great vids by the way, #highfive
Johnathan Oey Hey, thank you! #ReturnFive
+3D Printing Nerd +3D Printing Nerd sure thing.. hey check out dustin corbin.. hes a fellow youtuber that does tech support for folgertech.. he said contact him. he also said he watches ur channel too.
LOL "..So that's a bad noise..." Joel you are one funny dude... #lowfive
Wow, I think I really like this printer. If only the diameter was a little larger I would consider buying it.
If that's your criteria why not just hit up the Rostock Max v2?
I think the most important reason is that I don't know that printer. The second would be that it's a kit you have to build yourself.
But if it receives a good judgement in a review by someone I trust, Like Joel, Then I would consider that one for sure.
It comes as a factor built model also. I have the kit and it is a time investment to build. In the end it is the same thing as the Orion, just larger.
www.seemecnc.com/collections/ready-to-print-3d-printers/products/rostock-max-v2-desktop-3d-printer-factory-assembled
I have the orion. I would say just get the rostock Max instead haha. I personally don't like the orion :/ kinda cheapy made :[ either way theyre all gonna need upgrades lol these things are so noisy too lol
+cs ha I second the noise factors! Any of these SeeMeCNC deltas require stepper dampers. They're a symphonic beast without them.
hi there what happened to the SeeMeCNC Orion 3D Printer give away you did
I never did an Orion give away. I did a Rostock MAX v2 kit give away, and that was given away!
yes thats the one. just one thing could you let other people know about my youtube thanks and just one thing hi5
Is this printer any good in 2021? I See one selling one for 75.00.
I think if you can get a working one for $75 that ain't too bad. Sure would be fun to play with.
Yeah, that filament setup is an easy fix and shouldn't even be an issue. They should have fixed that after it happened during their prototyping phase.
Looks like they sent me a message and fixes are going in!
One potential solution I see based on what I saw in the video is some sort of arch (mounted to the skate) acting as a hook (about 35mm in diameter) to prevent the filament tube from getting above that particular skate.
is sentegrate american for Celsius?
Nope, it's the old fashioned way of saying it: www.brannan.co.uk/celsius-centigrade-and-fahrenheit
The sound the printer made when it jammed was painful to hear. That's the sound of a machine yelling "ow ow ow not good hurts a lot ow ow ow!"
#Highfive , Joel! I would think that a small arm-guide thing could be easily designed to mount to the top of the extruder to hold the filament tube away from either of the arms. Just a thought; I don't own one of these, trying to help :) Great coverage on this machine! I always find it helpful. #absforeverlol
awesome song!
Hey joel, i just tagged you in a post in the facebook group. Thanks for the help. I didn't go with the gmax but i'm so excited. I'm glad i ordered it
Syncronicity was an Album named by the Police group in late seventys early eighties sorry Joel
The only print surface you ever need is PRINTBITE. I don't understand why people are still using silly tapes, glues and sprays.... It's 2016 now.
The only print surface you need is PEI. I FTFY. =)
Arent you supposed to take out those white squiggly things off of the blue arms (at the top and bottom)??? i took them off of mine. LOL
No! Those stay on and provide the tension to keep the arms in place. Without them, the arms are more prone to popping off potentially.
Thanks!
cs Heh, glad I could help! :)
I cringed when it was trying to home and caught the feeder tube. The poor thing...
Sorry Joel, but The Police beat you to "synchronicity". en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synchronicity_(The_Police_album)
CURSE YOU STING!
I love this printer! I want one for meeeeeee!
can you please Gmax the robber rex?
Oooh....
Yeah....
check out a folgertech delta... bigger better and faster...
I've heard nothing but absolutely terrible things about the Folgertech deltas, including from Anthony at The Hot End who says they are garbage. I'm more than happy to put Folgertech to the test and give their printers some hands-on time, but until then, people I trust say they are no good, so I have to disagree.
Hi FIve!!!
high five!!!
Nice review Joel.
All of your test prints are hard surface models (which look great btw). I'd love to see how the Orion does with something a lot more organic like maybe the makerbot Sabertooth cat model.
What do you think, would you be willing to print one of these guys: www.thingiverse.com/thing:472463 and show the results?
Oooh, interesting. I like your idea. I'll see what I can do!
so I know I am late to comment here, but I see someone has put a thing on thingiverse to remedy the catching cable carrier scenario.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:1644165
but I agree that it shouldn't be an issue in the first place.
Hey, look at that! Thank you! #HighFive
The printer is so bad...!!!!!Great video bro...!!
So bad? Explain - why?
Hello, well below why I think it's a bad printer:
- As an electrical engineer assure the design is very bad caused to the very short length of the wires to the tip of estructor and fans, plus the positioning and length of tube feeding for filament also wrong positioned, as supposed to come from a company established and experienced, this is a serious design error. Also the tape holding the wires together is way too short.
- Concerning the design in general is only one copy of the open source edition, with bad modifications, which surely not performed fleeced into account the operation of the printer.
- And the cost of the printer is very high for what you get, and regardless of your design flaw radically impairs the operation of the machine. A printer as Afinibot-Micro-Delta has the same capabilities and the same design as markedly this 3D printer manufactured by SeeMeCNC.
Providing better performance and better impression quality from Micro-Delta Afinibot 3D printer, since it is the original design Delta but optimized only with fans in the extruder.
- Delta Micro 3D printer as sold from 265 dollars (DIY KIT) international express shipping included ..!
- I'm the proud owner of a Afinibot-Micro-Delta printer, and the fact that the printer is feeding filament from above there is no problem in the operation of the machine. The cables estructor tip is in the same position as the printer SeeMeCNC but has not the limitation of movement by very short cables.My comments and opinions do not suggest that your content is bad ..!
I refer only to the machine from SeeMeCNC
I'm currently designing a new 3D printer based on the Delta type, and so I dared to comment. Regards.
Víctor González Hey Victor, thanks for the follow-up! I promise, never thought you were saying my content was bad :) You make some very interesting points, which means I have a lot more to learn. Thank you!
Afinibot Micro Delta is so much better 3D printer..:!!!
Second
First! :)
I cringe every time I hear you use the word "Centigrade."
and thats why all deltas extruders need to start/feed from the top of printers