UPDATE! Great news Lerdge did get back to me and step files for each printed part are now public on their website. When you go to download a part it will be in a .zip file which includes both the .stl and .step file 🙌
Great vid. Glad to see you aren't "too big" to do reviews for little starter kits like this! There are always going to be new people just testing the waters with 3DP, so content like this will always be useful even if it doesn't do much for your "core" supporters.
I started on printers like this and fully understand not everyone is going to want to pay voron or Bambu prices for something that may just be a hobby for them. Love that 3D printing comes in so many shapes and sizes 😊. I will always do my best to cover as broad of a range of machines as possible and content.
@@ModBotArmyI’m one of your “core” supporters. I watch all your videos and I’m on some of your livestreams. This printer has me far more excited than most other printers for some reason lol
@@jeffreyepiscopo thank you for the support 😊. They let me know they are working on a linear rail upgrade for this. I already sourced my own rails so will figure out how to make it all work but cool to know they are going to have an upgrade path. 😊
My coworkers and I ordered a few kits after your live streams of the build. Loved the build process, our printers have been pretty reliable with the ptfe heat break, and we are super excited to mod the heck out of them. We're all mechanical engineers so we absolutely want to get our hands on the step files and hack it to bits. Thanks Daniel, great review.
Sweet! I would love to see what you end up doing with them. My linear rails just showed up. I dont have a drill press but I do have a CNC so plan is to cut out the plates in aluminum with holes for the rails. Also have a dragonfly hotend and parts for a Sherpa Micro extruder coming. This thing should be able to boogie with those upgrades. :)
Heck yeah! Thanks for making the version with inserts! I just got linear rails in for this and have an extruder/hotend upgrade coming. This will also be getting Klipper :D. Will make a follow up at some point.
Awesome, I’ve been waiting for this update video! I was one who asked you to review it with klipper on the livestream. Seems like a super cool printer, especially for the price.
Oh wait I do have a question. I don’t remember if you have a Prusa Mini, but if you do, how would you compare this? It’s a kit and roughly half the price of the Prusa. Would it be worth the extra money for the Prusa in your opinion?
I have two Prusa Minis. One I bought second hand and one I bought brand new. Honestly I am not the biggest fan. Out of the 4 cantilever printers I have it is by far the least rigid. Some people love them and dont get me wrong if you use the stock settings in PS it will work for the most part but I dont love the hotend or their extruder. The plan is to convert one of mine to a Prusa Mini bear so it be supported on both sides, and be upgraded to a dual gear direct drive. I do think the mini extruder and hotend is better than the one stock on this Lerdge and that if you were to not want to mod a machine I would likely go with the Mini. I am upgrading this printer to a dragonfly hotend and sherpa Micro with linear rails and I anticipate it being a better machine than my mini as far as performance goes when its done. So I suppose depends on whether you want are okay with modding or not. My minis dont get a lot of use.
Very interesting - I built the Anet A6 from the complete kit- my first ( and so far only ) 3D printer - you learn so much more about the printer & potential problems, not as sophisticated as the Lerdge, but much more rewarding than buying a print-out-of-the-box machine. I must say I prefer a gantry, with dual Z-axis motors, than a cantilever - not that I have any experience of them! The Lerdge hot end does look a bit weedy, maybe the cantilever design puts a limit on the weight...............
I’ve assembled one during three live stream sessions but actually haven’t recorded a review about it yet. 😂 I’m really happy with it. End of May I will conduct a course at our local Makerspace where I will assemble another one together with the course participants. So far the print results have been really nice. I even managed to print the PET filament that I produce myself using the PETBot. I released a short little video about a printing result two months ago. I will have to exchange the PTFE part now though, as printing the PET at 255°C must have degraded that part. Lead to extrusion issues lately. But the good thing is that they sell all the spare parts at really affordable prices. Side note: I tried to print the PET filament on my Prusa MK3S but always ended up having clogs right away.
7:40 try print something with no infill, or turn off retraction. i had this same problem because the spring on my extruder was too strong, and retracting while doing short lines of infill would crush the filament, then push that crushed filament into the bowden tube, eventually if there was too many crushed sections in the tube it would be too hard for it to be pushed through the tube and i'd get under extrusion and eventually itd stop entirely and the filament would just be grinding in the extruder gears. Seems you have the same problem.
Interesting, that is not what I thought was happening after looking into it all but it is entirely possible. I ordered parts for a Sherpa Micro so this is getting overhauled in the nearish future. I really wish the extruder had adjustable tension. With how much thought went into this printer it is a strange decision.
@@ModBotArmy yes yes they are. Have an OMTech 60w CO₂ Thinking about building a 5’x10’ with that new XTool 40w diode, as I’ve seen it cut through a whole 2x4 and I need bigger work area. Why has no one made a video about how to modify the firmware for larger format. Dang.gif
Great! A *modded Ender 2 Pro Kit - version with more open source* than Creality does provide and *a great documentation! - I really like it!* The option alone to print the parts for the printer itself (via a friend e.g.), to change its color with that choice before assembling or the *improved details over the Ender 2 Pro* are worth the project! Bigger is not always better! I would always prefer those Ender 2 Pro/ Lerdge iX/ Prusa Mini style printer over the bigger Ender 3 as a first printer, because it needs less space, is better for transportation (e.g. to show family members the new hobby) and proved to be a more solid experience because fewer (moving) parts. Especially for kids, students and people starting this hobby this is a great option with a full "build it like Lego" kit experience. And because of the small size and price you have eventually space and money left for a bigger, more advanced machine as a second printer (like the Sovol SV04 IDEX 300x300) but it would still be my preferred printer, because 90%+ of all projects fit the small build plate anyways and it's easy to use and maintain (which an IDEX or big size printer does not have to be).
Hey so I just got done putting mine together and I can’t get the screen to turn on the power button doesn’t light up for the screen as well what’s my next step?
Curious on a follow up to this. If bugs can get worked out, this could be a pretty fun little device. PTFE lined heatbreak limits it to PLA and PETG though. So, hopefully the bi-metal ones can get straightened out.
Out of topic question. I have an Ender 3 v2 and the bed leveling is often a pain. The plastic thing that protects the bed heating cables is getting in the way of proper leveling. Is there a fix for it??? Thanks in advance
What are you currently using for bed leveling? Manual or did you add some form of probe? Can you route the bed heater cables so they are not getting in the way? I dont seem to have an issue with the bed cables.
@@The_Traveling_Clown oh snap I totally get what you are saying. The strain relief is wrapped sound the back level screw. I had to adjust my z switch a bit to find a heigh that allowed them all to tension evenly. You are right it is a bit of a pain in the rear.
Stefan of CNC kitchen had a lot of trouble with cheap bi-metal heat breaks. As did I with my Ender 2. The cheap ones seem to be not the correct length possibly. Maybe try a slice engineering heat break. Also the PLA parts seem to be a very bad idea, wouldn’t the creep over time? Great video as always mate 👍🇦🇺😊
I've been using a cheap Mellow heartbreak for at least two years, printing petg and pla with no issues. Before that I kept having to change the degraded Bowden tube which was an original Capricorn one. Bimetal heatbreaks almost make the machine maintenance-free!
@@kimmotoivanen u/JohnHue said it best: Slice is selling a product in a field that has been created, has been able to innovate, and in general lives and breathes FOSS (free and open source, but free as in free speech not free beer although in most cases in 3d printing the later is also present). This is FINE, they have the right to do it... I personally think it's WAY overpriced (to the point that it prices out most people doing 3D printing), doesn't bring much to the table and the parent holds by a very fine thread... But they have the right to do it. The issue is that Slice doesn't understand, respect or support FOSS and has shown no interest in doing so. This is the difference between E3D and Slice in terms of how you manage your patented stuff. Here's what E3D has to say about their V6 hotend design after they fully open sourced it : "After all, we're confident that what makes an E3D product truly worthwhile is more than just its schematics. Not only are our products manufactured with quality materials to a high standard on modern machinery, followed by a rigorous testing and QC procedure on each batch. Every single one of our heat breaks is individually checked and cleaned by hand, and we offer long-term customer service and support that is hard to find elsewhere. Buying an E3D product also means you are supporting continued innovation in the form of R&D for future E3D products. And Haribo." e3d-online.com/blogs/news/open-source-design-patents-and-e3d Slide has the opposite view. They've patented a tiny change in an existing design, capitalized on more than a decade of open source work from professionals and hobbyists but offered nothing in return and are even fighting everyone who makes something even remotely similar to what they're doing. Their excuse is "we have families to feed" well guess what so does E3D, but E3D said "we're allowing you to copy our design, but we're also guaranteeing our version will be very well build, controlled and supported"... Based on that mentality and the respect they show to the FOSS community people still buy E3D hotend be it only to support them rather than buying the Chinese versions. In that sense Slice is similar to Stratasys who patented placing motors outside of the enclosure on an FDM printer as well as using active heating to heat the chamber, both things being extremely simple and OBVIOUS design choices for anyone working on that.... This is why you don't have affordable commercially available fdm printer with an actively heated chamber, because to do this they'd have to pay a licence fee to Stratasys and Stratasys also have the choice to not give the license to you even if you pay. Personally I don't hate Slice, they've done me no wrong. But by their innovation-hindering actions I've placed them in the "will not see me money or support" drawer just like they themselves did with the FOSS community.
That leadscrew wobbles a lot, also might be a good idea to try the "ball bearing trick" with this type of compressing coupler. This printer looks interesting and I enjoyed the live streams, however I already have a KP3S v3 printer.
I haven’t noticed any real issues caused by the lead screw but I did have some rubbing issues that went away when I added some grease. I am going to upgrade the printer to linear rails and will investigate more then. Do you have a link to the mentioned ball bearing trick?
@ModBotArmy You put appropriate sized ball inside flex coupler between stepper shaft and leadscrew . This allows the coupler to flex but not compress. Possible alternative, round over end of leadscrew into a ball shape on a grinder.
Love mine. But no good at design on my end. Hoping someone is able to design a dual side part cooling. would also like to use bl or cr touch. so a mount and if able to plug in. If to the sensor I see mounted in video. would like to know what to get and to make it work on the stock all software already installed? yeah like said E3 for check but that's not the point. Loved building this as a first time build. Very enjoyable and relaxing. plus wanted a small desktop on purpose. (pointless wasting electricity on ym E5+ to print 5 minute parts using a few grams for my builds. Wanted the small bed to heat up for small 10 gram items to print.
The only real reason would be if you want a full kit. There is a lot you learn about 3d printing when you put every screw, wire, nut, and bolt in place. For those wanting to build a full kit there are not a lot of options out there in this price range. Most like the ones you mentioned are already mostly assembled. If a full kit is not what you are after then the printers you mentioned would make more sense.
It is enabled in the stock included firmware. Yeah there are so many good dd options. I don’t hate Bowden but man at least have the ability to tension the extruder.
Honestly, I would have loved to buy one of these but the price was too much. If they targeted a range of 150 for the no included printed parts option I would have bought one instantly.
I am currently using klipper with manual mesh levelling (bed mesh levelling using the nozzle as a probe) on my ender 3 pro and it is working wonderfully! If you want i can post my configuration somewhere.
@@ModBotArmy I thought I replied earlier but my comment bugged out. All you need to do is include a [bed_mesh] section in your printer.cfg. When you do, if you don't have a bl-touch set up, klipper defaults to a manual mesh levelling method using the nozzle as a probe. My bed mesh section is the following and can be used as reference: [bed_mesh] speed: 50 horizontal_move_z: 0.2 mesh_min: 30,30 mesh_max: 220,220 probe_count: 3,3 mesh_pps: 2,3 algorithm: bicubic fade_start: 1 fade_end: 15 fade_target: 0 You need to select the proper mesh min and max points for your printer. After that, when you insert the bed mesh section in your config, a bed mesh controls window then appears in the tune menu of fluidd (not sure how its called in mainsail). In that menu there is a calibrate button, which starts the mesh wizard and creates a mesh using onscreen controls for moving the nozzle up and down. I also have an lcd menu structure setup that allows manual mesh and bed screw calibration (aka bed tramming in marlin) using the ender 3 pro lcd which I'm currently trying to upload to github but i dont know how yet. It should be noted that klipper no longer loads bed meshes by default, and they need to be summoned at the starting gcode of your slicer just like marlin needs M420 S1. The line you have to add is: BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default . If you create other meshes with custom names, then the "default" at the end needs to be changed accordingly. Let me know if i can clarify anything, I'm not sure if i am making any sense, cheers!
The heatsink duct looks awful. Massive space in front of the heatsink, fan on the side of a rectangular heatsink? Thats a nice recipe for heat creep. Air is just going to go around the heatsink. Ptfe burner hot ends are an awful bandaid solution for "silent" fans and poor ducting.
Nice little printer, but Id recommend a KP3S instead, 10 min out of box assembly and print away, all metal, just as compact, just as cheap, linear rails....
It’s not for you then 😊. It’s for someone that wants a full kit at an affordable price. If you don’t want a full kit there are lots of other options to go with.
@@ModBotArmy You can make that argument, and for years reviewers made the argument that the Ender 3 was the only printer on the market worth buying. It sure did take us a long time to recover from that mistake. I own a kp3s, and its ok enough. I mean for the price its not half bad, but its not anything special.
@@jon9947 not trying to convince you that cantilever is superior just that the design is fine for smaller machines if the frame is rigid. Given the choice I wouldn’t mind having a second rail for the z but I don’t believe it is much of a limiting factor for printers like this or your KP3S.
@@ModBotArmy I mean thats fine and to each their own, but I would guess you are more fascinated with the design and that this is a fun project. Which that is good in my book, I like doing crazy things because they are crazy. Out side of just a fun project, I think these things shouldnt be had. I think that is the most any of these printers should be framed as.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
UPDATE! Great news Lerdge did get back to me and step files for each printed part are now public on their website. When you go to download a part it will be in a .zip file which includes both the .stl and .step file 🙌
Great vid. Glad to see you aren't "too big" to do reviews for little starter kits like this! There are always going to be new people just testing the waters with 3DP, so content like this will always be useful even if it doesn't do much for your "core" supporters.
I started on printers like this and fully understand not everyone is going to want to pay voron or Bambu prices for something that may just be a hobby for them. Love that 3D printing comes in so many shapes and sizes 😊. I will always do my best to cover as broad of a range of machines as possible and content.
@@ModBotArmyI’m one of your “core” supporters. I watch all your videos and I’m on some of your livestreams. This printer has me far more excited than most other printers for some reason lol
@@jeffreyepiscopo thank you for the support 😊. They let me know they are working on a linear rail upgrade for this. I already sourced my own rails so will figure out how to make it all work but cool to know they are going to have an upgrade path. 😊
My coworkers and I ordered a few kits after your live streams of the build. Loved the build process, our printers have been pretty reliable with the ptfe heat break, and we are super excited to mod the heck out of them. We're all mechanical engineers so we absolutely want to get our hands on the step files and hack it to bits. Thanks Daniel, great review.
Sweet! I would love to see what you end up doing with them. My linear rails just showed up. I dont have a drill press but I do have a CNC so plan is to cut out the plates in aluminum with holes for the rails. Also have a dragonfly hotend and parts for a Sherpa Micro extruder coming. This thing should be able to boogie with those upgrades. :)
@@ModBotArmy That'll be a nice comparison to the KP3S Pro! I'm definitely excited to see that video come together!
Oh man this looks like a pretty decent small printer kit built for modding.
lol my linear rails just showed up and I have a new hotend/extruder showing up. This will get a follow up when I am done with it :D
@@ModBotArmy Now this I want to see.. How far can you push it.
@@ModBotArmy great!
@@ModBotArmyYou are one of the hardest working out here. Exceptional good man, exceptional.
Hey! Thanks for the shout out Daniel. Your iX looks great!
Heck yeah! Thanks for making the version with inserts! I just got linear rails in for this and have an extruder/hotend upgrade coming. This will also be getting Klipper :D. Will make a follow up at some point.
Awesome, I’ve been waiting for this update video! I was one who asked you to review it with klipper on the livestream. Seems like a super cool printer, especially for the price.
Oh wait I do have a question. I don’t remember if you have a Prusa Mini, but if you do, how would you compare this? It’s a kit and roughly half the price of the Prusa. Would it be worth the extra money for the Prusa in your opinion?
I have two Prusa Minis. One I bought second hand and one I bought brand new. Honestly I am not the biggest fan. Out of the 4 cantilever printers I have it is by far the least rigid. Some people love them and dont get me wrong if you use the stock settings in PS it will work for the most part but I dont love the hotend or their extruder.
The plan is to convert one of mine to a Prusa Mini bear so it be supported on both sides, and be upgraded to a dual gear direct drive. I do think the mini extruder and hotend is better than the one stock on this Lerdge and that if you were to not want to mod a machine I would likely go with the Mini.
I am upgrading this printer to a dragonfly hotend and sherpa Micro with linear rails and I anticipate it being a better machine than my mini as far as performance goes when its done. So I suppose depends on whether you want are okay with modding or not. My minis dont get a lot of use.
I've had this printer for about 6 months now, and with a few mods it's an amazing printer and is my daily driver to PLA.
Very interesting - I built the Anet A6 from the complete kit- my first ( and so far only ) 3D printer - you learn so much more about the printer & potential problems, not as sophisticated as the Lerdge, but much more rewarding than buying a print-out-of-the-box machine. I must say I prefer a gantry, with dual Z-axis motors, than a cantilever - not that I have any experience of them! The Lerdge hot end does look a bit weedy, maybe the cantilever design puts a limit on the weight...............
I'm sitting here watching this video, mentally making space for it in the workshop. Great video, looks like a fun little printer!
I’ve assembled one during three live stream sessions but actually haven’t recorded a review about it yet. 😂 I’m really happy with it. End of May I will conduct a course at our local Makerspace where I will assemble another one together with the course participants. So far the print results have been really nice. I even managed to print the PET filament that I produce myself using the PETBot. I released a short little video about a printing result two months ago. I will have to exchange the PTFE part now though, as printing the PET at 255°C must have degraded that part. Lead to extrusion issues lately. But the good thing is that they sell all the spare parts at really affordable prices. Side note: I tried to print the PET filament on my Prusa MK3S but always ended up having clogs right away.
could you link the linear rail upgrade? could not find it. Thanks!
If the Lerdge firmware is based on Marlin, they may upgrade it in the future to include Input Shaping as a default option. That would be cool.
based on marlin ? so they are required to publish the source code for it, which they havent
7:40 try print something with no infill, or turn off retraction. i had this same problem because the spring on my extruder was too strong, and retracting while doing short lines of infill would crush the filament, then push that crushed filament into the bowden tube, eventually if there was too many crushed sections in the tube it would be too hard for it to be pushed through the tube and i'd get under extrusion and eventually itd stop entirely and the filament would just be grinding in the extruder gears. Seems you have the same problem.
Interesting, that is not what I thought was happening after looking into it all but it is entirely possible. I ordered parts for a Sherpa Micro so this is getting overhauled in the nearish future. I really wish the extruder had adjustable tension. With how much thought went into this printer it is a strange decision.
i had the same problem as @ge2719 describes when i tested the lerdge extruder on my ender 3v2@@ModBotArmy
U can use manul bed mesh without screws or probe and load that before every print
Love that you’re also doing the videos for LightBurn too now
I have been contracted with LightBurn for a little over a year. Lasers are awesome 😊
@@ModBotArmy yes yes they are.
Have an OMTech 60w CO₂
Thinking about building a 5’x10’ with that new XTool 40w diode, as I’ve seen it cut through a whole 2x4 and I need bigger work area. Why has no one made a video about how to modify the firmware for larger format. Dang.gif
Yes, Mod this printer.
Linear rails just showed up yesterday :). More parts coming in soon.
Your lighting looks better in this video, have you changed anything?
Haha yes. I moved things around a bit and changed the angles. Nothing is concrete at this point but I am playing around with things 😊
Will a microswiss extruder and hotend fit? I'd like to see that.
how did the upgrades go?
Add the linear rail kit to it I just ordered this printer and upgrades for it
Great! A *modded Ender 2 Pro Kit - version with more open source* than Creality does provide and *a great documentation! - I really like it!*
The option alone to print the parts for the printer itself (via a friend e.g.), to change its color with that choice before assembling or the *improved details over the Ender 2 Pro* are worth the project!
Bigger is not always better! I would always prefer those Ender 2 Pro/ Lerdge iX/ Prusa Mini style printer over the bigger Ender 3 as a first printer, because it needs less space, is better for transportation (e.g. to show family members the new hobby) and proved to be a more solid experience because fewer (moving) parts.
Especially for kids, students and people starting this hobby this is a great option with a full "build it like Lego" kit experience.
And because of the small size and price you have eventually space and money left for a bigger, more advanced machine as a second printer (like the Sovol SV04 IDEX 300x300) but it would still be my preferred printer, because 90%+ of all projects fit the small build plate anyways and it's easy to use and maintain (which an IDEX or big size printer does not have to be).
Mod, Mod, ModBot!
Nice video Where can you get the modded part files you are using to mount the pinda probe
the real question is why would you want to get ender 3 for race to the bottom cost and race to the bottom features?
Hey so I just got done putting mine together and I can’t get the screen to turn on the power button doesn’t light up for the screen as well what’s my next step?
Curious on a follow up to this. If bugs can get worked out, this could be a pretty fun little device. PTFE lined heatbreak limits it to PLA and PETG though. So, hopefully the bi-metal ones can get straightened out.
Still hoping to get mine upgraded.
Looks cool, could you provide a link for the ABL probe you used?
No problem! This is the one I went with (AFF): amzn.to/3DGecHY
@@ModBotArmy Thank you. Just bought.
I like to use CRC copper anti seize on my bimetal heat brakes its rated to +900⁰c and stopped my heat creep issues
have stl file sensor on print head ?
So, its a Tronxy X1 in red then??
I’m very interested in this little guy! Would love to see some mods for it!
Out of topic question. I have an Ender 3 v2 and the bed leveling is often a pain. The plastic thing that protects the bed heating cables is getting in the way of proper leveling. Is there a fix for it??? Thanks in advance
What are you currently using for bed leveling? Manual or did you add some form of probe? Can you route the bed heater cables so they are not getting in the way? I dont seem to have an issue with the bed cables.
@@ModBotArmy Am using manual leveling. That one plastic cabke cover makes the spring a little uneven with rest and bed leveling a pain.
@@The_Traveling_Clown oh snap I totally get what you are saying. The strain relief is wrapped sound the back level screw. I had to adjust my z switch a bit to find a heigh that allowed them all to tension evenly. You are right it is a bit of a pain in the rear.
Stefan of CNC kitchen had a lot of trouble with cheap bi-metal heat breaks. As did I with my Ender 2. The cheap ones seem to be not the correct length possibly. Maybe try a slice engineering heat break.
Also the PLA parts seem to be a very bad idea, wouldn’t the creep over time?
Great video as always mate 👍🇦🇺😊
"not used in load bearing parts" + easier to print. ABS or ASA are lot harder to print while PETG is not that much better 🤔
I've been using a cheap Mellow heartbreak for at least two years, printing petg and pla with no issues.
Before that I kept having to change the degraded Bowden tube which was an original Capricorn one. Bimetal heatbreaks almost make the machine maintenance-free!
Don’t use anything from slice engineering. I hope everyone stops supporting that garbage company
@@jeffreyepiscopo Based on what?
@@kimmotoivanen u/JohnHue said it best:
Slice is selling a product in a field that has been created, has been able to innovate, and in general lives and breathes FOSS (free and open source, but free as in free speech not free beer although in most cases in 3d printing the later is also present). This is FINE, they have the right to do it... I personally think it's WAY overpriced (to the point that it prices out most people doing 3D printing), doesn't bring much to the table and the parent holds by a very fine thread... But they have the right to do it.
The issue is that Slice doesn't understand, respect or support FOSS and has shown no interest in doing so. This is the difference between E3D and Slice in terms of how you manage your patented stuff.
Here's what E3D has to say about their V6 hotend design after they fully open sourced it :
"After all, we're confident that what makes an E3D product truly worthwhile is more than just its schematics. Not only are our products manufactured with quality materials to a high standard on modern machinery, followed by a rigorous testing and QC procedure on each batch. Every single one of our heat breaks is individually checked and cleaned by hand, and we offer long-term customer service and support that is hard to find elsewhere. Buying an E3D product also means you are supporting continued innovation in the form of R&D for future E3D products. And Haribo."
e3d-online.com/blogs/news/open-source-design-patents-and-e3d
Slide has the opposite view. They've patented a tiny change in an existing design, capitalized on more than a decade of open source work from professionals and hobbyists but offered nothing in return and are even fighting everyone who makes something even remotely similar to what they're doing. Their excuse is "we have families to feed" well guess what so does E3D, but E3D said "we're allowing you to copy our design, but we're also guaranteeing our version will be very well build, controlled and supported"... Based on that mentality and the respect they show to the FOSS community people still buy E3D hotend be it only to support them rather than buying the Chinese versions.
In that sense Slice is similar to Stratasys who patented placing motors outside of the enclosure on an FDM printer as well as using active heating to heat the chamber, both things being extremely simple and OBVIOUS design choices for anyone working on that.... This is why you don't have affordable commercially available fdm printer with an actively heated chamber, because to do this they'd have to pay a licence fee to Stratasys and Stratasys also have the choice to not give the license to you even if you pay.
Personally I don't hate Slice, they've done me no wrong. But by their innovation-hindering actions I've placed them in the "will not see me money or support" drawer just like they themselves did with the FOSS community.
That leadscrew wobbles a lot, also might be a good idea to try the "ball bearing trick" with this type of compressing coupler. This printer looks interesting and I enjoyed the live streams, however I already have a KP3S v3 printer.
I haven’t noticed any real issues caused by the lead screw but I did have some rubbing issues that went away when I added some grease. I am going to upgrade the printer to linear rails and will investigate more then. Do you have a link to the mentioned ball bearing trick?
I'm also curious about the ball bearing trick, thank you!
@@ModBotArmy Here's a video by Alex Kenis: ruclips.net/video/zI-Fb8uTTKs/видео.html
@ModBotArmy You put appropriate sized ball inside flex coupler between stepper shaft and leadscrew . This allows the coupler to flex but not compress. Possible alternative, round over end of leadscrew into a ball shape on a grinder.
Love mine. But no good at design on my end. Hoping someone is able to design a dual side part cooling. would also like to use bl or cr touch. so a mount and if able to plug in. If to the sensor I see mounted in video. would like to know what to get and to make it work on the stock all software already installed? yeah like said E3 for check but that's not the point. Loved building this as a first time build. Very enjoyable and relaxing. plus wanted a small desktop on purpose. (pointless wasting electricity on ym E5+ to print 5 minute parts using a few grams for my builds. Wanted the small bed to heat up for small 10 gram items to print.
What's the weight of the alloy parts? They might have been a downgrade
Good video but I don't get it. What is the advantages of this vs an Ender 2 or the KP3S that are both cheaper?
The only real reason would be if you want a full kit. There is a lot you learn about 3d printing when you put every screw, wire, nut, and bolt in place. For those wanting to build a full kit there are not a lot of options out there in this price range. Most like the ones you mentioned are already mostly assembled. If a full kit is not what you are after then the printers you mentioned would make more sense.
@@ModBotArmy I mean I get it but if I'm printing my own parts, I shouldn't be spending more, but to each their own.
in your opinion which will be the best "small" 3d printer in 2023 (quality + reliability) on a budget?
Is Linear Advance enabled in stock firmware? Why do they still put bowden setup in 2023 printers...
It is enabled in the stock included firmware. Yeah there are so many good dd options. I don’t hate Bowden but man at least have the ability to tension the extruder.
Honestly, I would have loved to buy one of these but the price was too much. If they targeted a range of 150 for the no included printed parts option I would have bought one instantly.
On sale for 129!
It's so cute.
I am currently using klipper with manual mesh levelling (bed mesh levelling using the nozzle as a probe) on my ender 3 pro and it is working wonderfully! If you want i can post my configuration somewhere.
Sweet! Maybe I just didn’t look hard enough. Do you know what it is called in klipper?
@@ModBotArmy I thought I replied earlier but my comment bugged out. All you need to do is include a [bed_mesh] section in your printer.cfg. When you do, if you don't have a bl-touch set up, klipper defaults to a manual mesh levelling method using the nozzle as a probe. My bed mesh section is the following and can be used as reference:
[bed_mesh]
speed: 50
horizontal_move_z: 0.2
mesh_min: 30,30
mesh_max: 220,220
probe_count: 3,3
mesh_pps: 2,3
algorithm: bicubic
fade_start: 1
fade_end: 15
fade_target: 0
You need to select the proper mesh min and max points for your printer. After that, when you insert the bed mesh section in your config, a bed mesh controls window then appears in the tune menu of fluidd (not sure how its called in mainsail). In that menu there is a calibrate button, which starts the mesh wizard and creates a mesh using onscreen controls for moving the nozzle up and down.
I also have an lcd menu structure setup that allows manual mesh and bed screw calibration (aka bed tramming in marlin) using the ender 3 pro lcd which I'm currently trying to upload to github but i dont know how yet. It should be noted that klipper no longer loads bed meshes by default, and they need to be summoned at the starting gcode of your slicer just like marlin needs M420 S1. The line you have to add is: BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default . If you create other meshes with custom names, then the "default" at the end needs to be changed accordingly. Let me know if i can clarify anything, I'm not sure if i am making any sense, cheers!
Of course klipper has the completely manual mesh!!
So kind of a voron experience of an Ender quality printer?
The heatsink duct looks awful. Massive space in front of the heatsink, fan on the side of a rectangular heatsink? Thats a nice recipe for heat creep. Air is just going to go around the heatsink. Ptfe burner hot ends are an awful bandaid solution for "silent" fans and poor ducting.
It seems the wires in the cable chains have no jacket, that could cause issues
Hm looks like ratrig v minion x ender 2
We where calling it the Budget V-Minion during the stream builds :)
Nice little printer, but Id recommend a KP3S instead, 10 min out of box assembly and print away, all metal, just as compact, just as cheap, linear rails....
Obsolete thanks to the a1 mini unless you like modding
baffling to print in PLA. even petg would be better and there is no real cost diffrence
$200 seems way too expensive for what it is. This should be closer to $150.
Not being a nayser, but I see nothing special.
It’s not for you then 😊. It’s for someone that wants a full kit at an affordable price. If you don’t want a full kit there are lots of other options to go with.
No thanks! Really wish people would stop paying attention to cantilever printers.
Nothing wrong with them at small scale. The v-minion is crazy rigid.
I would argue more rigid than most i3 printers that don’t have a second lead screw at the very least.
@@ModBotArmy You can make that argument, and for years reviewers made the argument that the Ender 3 was the only printer on the market worth buying. It sure did take us a long time to recover from that mistake.
I own a kp3s, and its ok enough. I mean for the price its not half bad, but its not anything special.
@@jon9947 not trying to convince you that cantilever is superior just that the design is fine for smaller machines if the frame is rigid.
Given the choice I wouldn’t mind having a second rail for the z but I don’t believe it is much of a limiting factor for printers like this or your KP3S.
@@ModBotArmy I mean thats fine and to each their own, but I would guess you are more fascinated with the design and that this is a fun project. Which that is good in my book, I like doing crazy things because they are crazy.
Out side of just a fun project, I think these things shouldnt be had. I think that is the most any of these printers should be framed as.
Watched your video, great, I sent you an invitation email, please check