Another reason for using the same or similar large CLEAN funnel to pour oil into the engine, is to leave the bottle for a few minutes longer (as he did in the video) so the bottle empties completely. If you have time constraints, choose one and place the other bottle on top to drip dry into it, 30 minutes each. Amazing how much is still left in the supposedly empty bottle.😊
I’m pretty sure the type writer tick had a lot to do with the timing chain getting loose there was a recall I had that noise took it in, and it was a loose timing chain they updated to oil pressure with an update that ford released and fixed the chain it went away and I whippled the car
I wonder why Ford didn't include a door in the pan? I've seen a few people talk about cutting a hole in the tray, so they don't have to go through the hassle of removing all the bolts and pushpins. Also seems like an opportunity for somebody to make a door people can add to the tray for easy access while still maintaining the integrity of the tray.
My 24 had it right off the rip I've had alot of coyotes, every generation to be exact. The only coyote variant I've owned that didn't was my GT350. It is a normal characteristic of the coyote engine, and he's right some don't develop it for whatever reason. I will say this ceratec does work, infact in my gen 2 coyote had it, I used one bottle of ceratec and it went away instantly. And the best part I changed the oil after didn't use ceratec and it was still gone. So the point of this long winded comment is this is that noise detrimental on the engine no, is that noise annoying yes, is ceratec magic no, does it work yes.
Will be changing the oil in my 17 soon for the first time since getting it 4 months ago. No tick now and plan to keep it that way so I already have the Ceratec to go with the new oil. Pretty sure the previous owner used it as well. Soon be at 54k miles.
Ceratec definitely works but just a heads up if you’re going to use it , you’re supposed to put two full bottles in , one bottle for every 5 quarts of oil. I use it in my GEN 3 coyote Mach 1 and I have never heard the tick come back since I’ve started using it. 🇺🇸💪🏼🐎
Ford Mustang GT came out in Australia around in 2015. Some of the Coyote Engines run on 5W-20 and 5W-30 Engine oils. If the Mustang Made the " Typewriter Click " some of the owners would drain out the Oil and Filter and put in 9.5 Litres of 0W-40 Engine Oil . There is also a bigger oil filter called Ford Racing that fits in Coyote Engines 2015 - Present.
Being that I don't have a lift I was thinking about using ramps instead of jacking up the car, do you think the car being at an angle on the ramps will prevent all the old oil from draining out of the oul pan?
I didn’t know that but luckily at my school I have access to the lifts, ac machine and alignment rack. I’m here to see how painful this oil change is and on my STI I change the oil 2,000 miles and my mustang has 4,500 but I just bought it a few days ago so I want to change the oil already.
Thanks, really informative and interesting - of particular interest was the new much larger (x4 or5?) Engine OIL COOLER sensibly relocated and transversely re-positioned behind the new steel sump to now catch cold air-flow under the car.
Why not put it back on? I don't have the scientific data to prove otherwise, but I can confidently say it helps with airflow underneath the car and shields components from the elements and debris. -Landan
It's not just Ford. The current generation of Nissan cars, Alfa Romeo, BMW, and Mercedes....possibly a few others I can't think of off the top of my head.
Had the tick when I switched from synthetic blend to full synthetic on my 2015 GT, immediately went back to the shop and they drained it and put back synthetic blend and the noise went away and never came back. Sticking to synthetic blend on my 2024 GT as well.
5W-50 also solves the problem. That’s all ford performance uses in the track attack cars and they all run super quiet. I have a 21 Mach 1 and when I attended the track attack I said what’s in these for oil? They’re so quiet. He said you noticed we use 5W-50 only. I switched to Amsoil 5W-50 problem solved.
I've never changed the oil in my car, always took it in, but I'm about to buy one of these and it'll be my first new car that I purchase (parents handed down the one I have now) and I want to care for it myself. Something I'm trying to figure out is I assume some oil will be left over after draining it, would it make sense to put a little less than the 10 quarts in the engine because of that? I just don't want to end up over or under filling the engine.
Good question. I wouldn't overthink it. I've never overfilled an engine by using the manufacturers recommended capacity. As we show in the video, when you're finished, check the dipstick for reassurance. -Landan
You will need to add a 11th quart to bring the level to the fill line on the dipstick tomorrow morning... and thats a total failure not having a door to the filter...everyone will just leave that pan off.. dealers will put it on wrong, SMH. ... needs a door. 🚪
Every car/engine is different. Some have to add oil, some don't. I checked the oil in this car the following day, and it was right on the money. No additional oil required. -Landan
@latemodelrestoration makes sense, but I have had five of these coyote engines and it's the same story... they all seem to want that 11th quart for the dipstick.. anyway, happy new year.
Hey guys, just had the oil changed on our S650 this past Saturday at the dealership. Tech said that Ford was recommending 9.5 quarts for the S650. My experience is that 10 quarts would bring it up to a better level. Have any of ya'll heard anything about this
This is news to me. What was their explanation or reason for only 9.5 quarts? I’d like to know as I haven’t heard/seen any updates saying otherwise. -Landan
I don’t understand why you fill the oil filter with oil ?? you really do not have to do that, and also, I’ve never put oil around the O-ring either, to each their own but it’s really not necessary 🇺🇸💪🏼🐎
I've always prefilled my new oil filters (if they installed vertically) and put a light coating of oil on the new filter's gasket. Also, I never torqued an oil filter! Just run them up until the gasket touches, then hand tighten them 3/4 of turn.... done! Never had a gasket stick to the block when removing the old oil filter.
The reason to pre-fill the oil filter is simple. It takes a few seconds for the oil pump to fill the new oil filter.. Guess what’s not getting oil pressure for those few seconds?
I have a GT on order. I noticed you suggested installing an oil separator. Is this recommended for "day-to-day" driving or for racing? I won't be racing.
Ford designed it for a specific reason, more than likely for aerodynamic reasons. But it's up to the owners of their S650 if they want to reinstall it again.
That's marginal in the grand scheme of things. You could say the same thing about the oil that pools in the cylinder head pockets. It is what it is. Don't overthink it. Thanks for watching. -Landan
Does the S650 come with 5w30 synthetic blend from the factory? Doesn’t ford sell a full synthetic version 5w30 except it’s more expensive and hard to find
Yes., Ford puts 5w30 synthetic blend oil in the gen 4 Coyote engines at the engine plant. Yes, a Motorcraft 5w30 full synthetic oil is available. Unfortunately, we don't offer it at this time. -Landan
HIGHLY recommend a better oil than a blend. Even the Motorcraft one. A good FULL synthetic oil like Mobil 1, Amsoil, Quaker State, Valvoline, Castrol ect. will have much better sheer resistance than that blend. Especially a high performance engine like the Coyote with direct injection could really use a full synthetic oil so it doesn't break down as easy. The fuel from the direct injection WILL contaminate the oil and break it down. If you use E10 to E85 fuel the issue is even more dire.
Because we used semi-synthetic. Not sure how else to answer that. The majority of our Coyote-based vehicles in our fleet all get Motorcraft semi-synthetic oil. Two of them have over 150K+ miles with no noises or issues. At the end of the day, use whatever oil you'd like. -Landan
I hate those under body panels with a passion. I get they are supposed to protect the car, but why make an oil change harder? Now if it had the under panel, but a smaller door with easy access to the oil drain and/or filter that would make life easier on any car.
Looks like Ford learned their lesson with the plastic oil pan and drain plug. Also, i recommend to use full synthetic oil and change it twice as often as Ford says. Direct injection and Ethanol fuel really wreak havcoc on oil. Ford only has to warranty for 60k miles and hopes something happens after that so you buy a new car from them. Also, that skid plate is horrible Ford. Thats as bad as a German car. It needs smaller panels for the oil filter and drain plug that can be taken off with one screw. For instance my gen 3 Coyote has a flap in the skid plate that comes down with one screw while the oil drain is open for access.
That's it...? Has anyone done an Alfa Romeo Stelvio? 24 screws have to be removed to remove the splash guard to access the drain plug and oil filter. Don't get me started on its oil reset procedure and the pain that is. This is nothing by comparison.
There is absolutely NO REASON for Ford to make it that difficult to change oil...especially for a DIYer laying on his back on their garage floor. Some potential buyers may see this video and change their mind. Just another reason Ford is not doing very well.
Why I can buy ford oil at Walmart cheaper. 77 dollars plus shipping. I go to Walmart 25x2 for the oil 8 for the filter 64 buck out the door. As opposed to 87. Unless they send LMR secret oil that turns every car into a factory freak. Please these guys send over original Ford parts to automotive manufacturers in China. They order a product run and sell these inferior Knock offs for huge profit margins. The car reproduction/restoration parts market is a huge ripoff to consumers. They lack the quality and design of original parts while devaluing your car.
Thanks for the comment. It's definitely difficult to compete with big box retailers when it comes to certain items. Simply put, they buy more, so they get a better price. We do our best to offer value to our customer's in the form of customer service, articles, videos, and other forms of content. While some folks find it beneficial, others don't. It's simple perception. We all think differently. With that being said, I'll definitely forward this over to our pricing team for them to review. We always appreciate everyone's feedback; good, bad, or indifferent. To address your mention about the "knock-off" parts. We're all entitled to an opinion. The sole purpose of offering aftermarket reproduction or factory-style parts is for owners to have options. Old OEM parts get harder and harder to find everyday. A lot of people find it easier to just buy new and not worry about the hassle of chasing down like-new or decently used take-off parts. Go look at any other retailer that sells restoration parts. I'm not talking about just Mustang either. Camaro, Chevelle, Pontiac, Dodge, Chrysler. The list goes on. In closing, thanks for providing feedback. Regardless if it's positive or negative, I think it goes to show that we'll listen to what people have to say and forward the suggestions to the right channels for review. Have a great day! -Landan
Why did Ford beat the S650 so hard with the ugly stick? And don't get me started on the misery that is the flat panel gauge cluster. I've owned 9 Mustang's. I currently own 3. This S650 is a fail.
Awesome vid! Getting ready to do this next week! 😀
Another reason for using the same or similar large CLEAN funnel to pour oil into the engine, is to leave the bottle for a few minutes longer (as he did in the video) so the bottle empties completely. If you have time constraints, choose one and place the other bottle on top to drip dry into it, 30 minutes each. Amazing how much is still left in the supposedly empty bottle.😊
I gotta say watching this video was definitely informative i appreciate the walk through and im definitely gonna do my oil change on my 24 mustang
Thanks for watching and for the great feedback! We appreciate it! -Landan
Great video Landan! First under the car look of the new S650. Awesome attention to detail!!! Good work!!!
👍👊💪😎❤️🇺🇸
Thanks for the sincere feedback! I appreciate it. -Landan
Im saving up to get a 2024 Mustang, my dream car. This video is very informative thank you ^^
Great video. Appreciate it. First one I come across was how to reset the computer
I’m pretty sure the type writer tick had a lot to do with the timing chain getting loose there was a recall I had that noise took it in, and it was a loose timing chain they updated to oil pressure with an update that ford released and fixed the chain it went away and I whippled the car
Blowing into the filter I see. Just like the NES cartridges.
I wonder why Ford didn't include a door in the pan? I've seen a few people talk about cutting a hole in the tray, so they don't have to go through the hassle of removing all the bolts and pushpins. Also seems like an opportunity for somebody to make a door people can add to the tray for easy access while still maintaining the integrity of the tray.
My 24 had it right off the rip I've had alot of coyotes, every generation to be exact. The only coyote variant I've owned that didn't was my GT350. It is a normal characteristic of the coyote engine, and he's right some don't develop it for whatever reason. I will say this ceratec does work, infact in my gen 2 coyote had it, I used one bottle of ceratec and it went away instantly. And the best part I changed the oil after didn't use ceratec and it was still gone. So the point of this long winded comment is this is that noise detrimental on the engine no, is that noise annoying yes, is ceratec magic no, does it work yes.
Will be changing the oil in my 17 soon for the first time since getting it 4 months ago. No tick now and plan to keep it that way so I already have the Ceratec to go with the new oil. Pretty sure the previous owner used it as well. Soon be at 54k miles.
Ceratec definitely works but just a heads up if you’re going to use it , you’re supposed to put two full bottles in , one bottle for every 5 quarts of oil. I use it in my GEN 3 coyote Mach 1 and I have never heard the tick come back since I’ve started using it. 🇺🇸💪🏼🐎
Ford Mustang GT came out in Australia around in 2015. Some of the Coyote Engines run on 5W-20 and 5W-30 Engine oils. If the Mustang Made the " Typewriter Click " some of the owners would drain out the Oil and Filter and put in 9.5 Litres of 0W-40 Engine Oil . There is also a bigger oil filter called Ford Racing that fits in Coyote Engines 2015 - Present.
19 lbft. Awesome Thanks!
Sure thing! -Landan
Being that I don't have a lift I was thinking about using ramps instead of jacking up the car, do you think the car being at an angle on the ramps will prevent all the old oil from draining out of the oul pan?
You'll be perfectly fine. I've changed oil plenty of times on ramps over the years without any issues. -Landan
Good luck doing all that under some jack stands. Jeezus. Why did they add 23 steps before you can even get to the drain plug?!
This and the air filter location lmao 🤦🏻♂️
I didn’t know that but luckily at my school I have access to the lifts, ac machine and alignment rack. I’m here to see how painful this oil change is and on my STI I change the oil 2,000 miles and my mustang has 4,500 but I just bought it a few days ago so I want to change the oil already.
I usually do my own oil changes but after seeing this video it'll be extremely hard unless you have a lift
Thanks, really informative and interesting - of particular interest was the new much larger (x4 or5?) Engine OIL COOLER sensibly relocated and transversely re-positioned behind the new steel sump to now catch cold air-flow under the car.
Thanks for the comment and feedback! That's actually the automatic transmission cooler that's positioned just behind the oil pan. -Landan
I got the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and WIX 57502XP Oil Filter for my Dark Horse's first oil change. Overkill or no?
Amsoil signature series is the best. No such thing as overkill on engine oil.
Is that bottom panel crucial? Any thought of leaving it off after the first oil change?
Make it light for the dragstrip. 👍🏽
Why not put it back on? I don't have the scientific data to prove otherwise, but I can confidently say it helps with airflow underneath the car and shields components from the elements and debris. -Landan
C'mon Ford, how did they forget the access flap to the filter. 🤔
It's not just Ford. The current generation of Nissan cars, Alfa Romeo, BMW, and Mercedes....possibly a few others I can't think of off the top of my head.
man this makes me love how easy an oil change is on my ss 1le LOL
That’s good cause the engines needs to come out and get change out quite often 😂
Anyone else see what looked like a Napa Platinum series filter removed from car?
Had the tick when I switched from synthetic blend to full synthetic on my 2015 GT, immediately went back to the shop and they drained it and put back synthetic blend and the noise went away and never came back. Sticking to synthetic blend on my 2024 GT as well.
Interesting! Thanks for providing your experience. -Landan
5W-50 also solves the problem. That’s all ford performance uses in the track attack cars and they all run super quiet. I have a 21 Mach 1 and when I attended the track attack I said what’s in these for oil? They’re so quiet. He said you noticed we use 5W-50 only. I switched to Amsoil 5W-50 problem solved.
Great job changing the oil on this 7th generation Ford mustang with gen 4 5.0 Coyote V8
Any way for home mechanics, mobile mechanics to report oil change service?
I personally keep a log on my phone of everything I do to my vehicles. Not sure if that's the answer you're looking for. -Landan
What are the biggest changes from 23 to 24
We have an article on that topic. Check it out below. -Landan
lmr.com/products/s550-vs-s650-mustang
I've never changed the oil in my car, always took it in, but I'm about to buy one of these and it'll be my first new car that I purchase (parents handed down the one I have now) and I want to care for it myself. Something I'm trying to figure out is I assume some oil will be left over after draining it, would it make sense to put a little less than the 10 quarts in the engine because of that? I just don't want to end up over or under filling the engine.
Good question. I wouldn't overthink it. I've never overfilled an engine by using the manufacturers recommended capacity. As we show in the video, when you're finished, check the dipstick for reassurance. -Landan
You will need to add a 11th quart to bring the level to the fill line on the dipstick tomorrow morning... and thats a total failure not having a door to the filter...everyone will just leave that pan off.. dealers will put it on wrong, SMH. ... needs a door. 🚪
Every car/engine is different. Some have to add oil, some don't. I checked the oil in this car the following day, and it was right on the money. No additional oil required. -Landan
@latemodelrestoration makes sense, but I have had five of these coyote engines and it's the same story... they all seem to want that 11th quart for the dipstick.. anyway, happy new year.
Hey guys, just had the oil changed on our S650 this past Saturday at the dealership. Tech said that Ford was recommending 9.5 quarts for the S650. My experience is that 10 quarts would bring it up to a better level. Have any of ya'll heard anything about this
This is news to me. What was their explanation or reason for only 9.5 quarts? I’d like to know as I haven’t heard/seen any updates saying otherwise. -Landan
I'm not sure but I will find out and let you know what they say
Always had to add a 11th quart for a cold check the next day, to bring it to the dipstick fill line.
what are the part numbers for those plastic clips, please? thanks.
Which plastic clips are you referring to? The ones that help secure the undertray? If so, which clip? -Landan
I don’t understand why you fill the oil filter with oil ?? you really do not have to do that, and also, I’ve never put oil around the O-ring either, to each their own but it’s really not necessary 🇺🇸💪🏼🐎
You nailed it; to each their own. -Landan
I've always prefilled my new oil filters (if they installed vertically) and put a light coating of oil on the new filter's gasket.
Also, I never torqued an oil filter!
Just run them up until the gasket touches, then hand tighten them 3/4 of turn.... done!
Never had a gasket stick to the block when removing the old oil filter.
The reason to pre-fill the oil filter is simple. It takes a few seconds for the oil pump to fill the new oil filter.. Guess what’s not getting oil pressure for those few seconds?
I have a GT on order. I noticed you suggested installing an oil separator. Is this recommended for "day-to-day" driving or for racing? I won't be racing.
Im Ording my GT and I will be putting a oil separator on it almost immediately. I will not be tracking it but every once in awhile
Just wondering if anyone thinks the belly pan cover could be modified to cut one side for easier access.
Anything is possible. A DIY access panel could be fabbed up with some thought and ingenuity. -Landan
My dealer gave me full synthetic for my 2024 when I went to go buy some would I be fine ????
Yes, you're totally fine. -Landan
Do you really need to reinstall the belly pan does the car really need to have that
Ford designed it for a specific reason, more than likely for aerodynamic reasons. But it's up to the owners of their S650 if they want to reinstall it again.
Ford......DO WHAT!!! 😊
So what about all the oil remaining in the oil cooler and lines? That's not a complete oil change in my estimation.
That's marginal in the grand scheme of things. You could say the same thing about the oil that pools in the cylinder head pockets. It is what it is. Don't overthink it. Thanks for watching. -Landan
Went into Ford to do my break in oil change. On the paper they gave me it says they put in 5W20. Should I be worried?
I would call and get an explanation as to why they did what they did. Ask them to use what the engine calls for. -Landan
dont you need to change some ring on the plug?
No. The Gen 3 Coyotes (18-23) had the 120-degree plastic drain plug with o-ring. That might be what you're thinking of. -Landan
Is this process the same on a Dark Horse and do you know if the Dark Horse requires more oil than a GT?
Yes, the process, oil viscosity, oil capacity, and oil filter are the same for the Dark Horse Mustangs as well. -Landan
@@latemodelrestoration appreciate that, thank you.
Yikes. Lol. My lotus needs 14 bolts, the pan is aluminum, and you don't need to jack the car up. 😮 I'd be looking for a replacement with a door.
gen 1 5.0 Was 7.5 Quarts (idk the exact amount)
Gen 2 5.0 Was 8.5 Quarts
Gen 3 5.0 was 10 Quarts,
and now gen 4 is now 10 quarts again
Gen 1 (non Boss 302 & Track Pack) - 8 quarts w/ filter
Gen 1 (Boss 302 & Track Pack) - 8.5 quarts w/ filter
Gen 2 - 8 quarts w/ filter
Gen 3 - 10 quarts w/ filter
Gen 4 - 10 quarts w/ filter
Yep, not doing this under jack stands. Guess the stealership will get my business
I'm going to give it a shot with rhino ramps.
Just use 1/2 a bottle of LiquiMoly Cereatec and that defeats the tick.
Does the S650 come with 5w30 synthetic blend from the factory? Doesn’t ford sell a full synthetic version 5w30 except it’s more expensive and hard to find
Yes., Ford puts 5w30 synthetic blend oil in the gen 4 Coyote engines at the engine plant. Yes, a Motorcraft 5w30 full synthetic oil is available. Unfortunately, we don't offer it at this time. -Landan
HIGHLY recommend a better oil than a blend. Even the Motorcraft one. A good FULL synthetic oil like Mobil 1, Amsoil, Quaker State, Valvoline, Castrol ect. will have much better sheer resistance than that blend. Especially a high performance engine like the Coyote with direct injection could really use a full synthetic oil so it doesn't break down as easy. The fuel from the direct injection WILL contaminate the oil and break it down. If you use E10 to E85 fuel the issue is even more dire.
@@shawnsanders9450 thanks man! I plan to use Pennzoil Platinum once it’s time for my oil change soon.
I’m pretty sure it does come with full synthetic I already purchased oil and filter from the ford dealer and that’s what they said it called for.
@@seanh6127 no. It comes with a Motorcraft blend but I would recommend a good full synthetic.
Why not use full synthetic?
Because we used semi-synthetic. Not sure how else to answer that. The majority of our Coyote-based vehicles in our fleet all get Motorcraft semi-synthetic oil. Two of them have over 150K+ miles with no noises or issues. At the end of the day, use whatever oil you'd like. -Landan
I hate those under body panels with a passion. I get they are supposed to protect the car, but why make an oil change harder? Now if it had the under panel, but a smaller door with easy access to the oil drain and/or filter that would make life easier on any car.
Yep! Maybe they'll revise the lower close panels for the 2025 model year. -Landan
Why did you use a oil blend
ford branded 5w-30 only comes as a blend
Ok@@Bippu_4.3
Looks like Ford learned their lesson with the plastic oil pan and drain plug. Also, i recommend to use full synthetic oil and change it twice as often as Ford says. Direct injection and Ethanol fuel really wreak havcoc on oil. Ford only has to warranty for 60k miles and hopes something happens after that so you buy a new car from them.
Also, that skid plate is horrible Ford. Thats as bad as a German car. It needs smaller panels for the oil filter and drain plug that can be taken off with one screw. For instance my gen 3 Coyote has a flap in the skid plate that comes down with one screw while the oil drain is open for access.
That's it...? Has anyone done an Alfa Romeo Stelvio? 24 screws have to be removed to remove the splash guard to access the drain plug and oil filter. Don't get me started on its oil reset procedure and the pain that is. This is nothing by comparison.
Dang! That's crazy. -Landan
Benefits of a lowered car, all the retainer heads just scrape off! 🥳
What a joke! I can only imagine how many of those screws and clips won't get reinstalled when the dealership or quick lube does an oil change.
There is absolutely NO REASON for Ford to make it that difficult to change oil...especially for a DIYer laying on his back on their garage floor. Some potential buyers may see this video and change their mind. Just another reason Ford is not doing very well.
Agreed, I just did mine and getting that crap off was a big PITA.
Why not just put Full Synthetic? 🇺🇸💪🏼🐎
I pay 42 bucks at the dealer....
Going to the dealership definitely has it's benefits. Thanks for the comment. -Landan
Hopefully the cat doing your oil change wasn’t on a bender the night before…
Lol
Very disappointing. Not replacing my wifes 66 anytime soon.
$60K no oil trap shameful 😮
Well shat.. i bought my oil but removing all that shyt makes me just wanna pay ford to do it 😪
But if u do it it's free labor y not save and get to knoe ur motor more
What a *king joke
Why I can buy ford oil at Walmart cheaper. 77 dollars plus shipping. I go to Walmart 25x2 for the oil 8 for the filter 64 buck out the door. As opposed to 87. Unless they send LMR secret oil that turns every car into a factory freak. Please these guys send over original Ford parts to automotive manufacturers in China. They order a product run and sell these inferior Knock offs for huge profit margins. The car reproduction/restoration parts market is a huge ripoff to consumers. They lack the quality and design of original parts while devaluing your car.
Thanks for the comment. It's definitely difficult to compete with big box retailers when it comes to certain items. Simply put, they buy more, so they get a better price. We do our best to offer value to our customer's in the form of customer service, articles, videos, and other forms of content. While some folks find it beneficial, others don't. It's simple perception. We all think differently. With that being said, I'll definitely forward this over to our pricing team for them to review. We always appreciate everyone's feedback; good, bad, or indifferent.
To address your mention about the "knock-off" parts. We're all entitled to an opinion. The sole purpose of offering aftermarket reproduction or factory-style parts is for owners to have options. Old OEM parts get harder and harder to find everyday. A lot of people find it easier to just buy new and not worry about the hassle of chasing down like-new or decently used take-off parts. Go look at any other retailer that sells restoration parts. I'm not talking about just Mustang either. Camaro, Chevelle, Pontiac, Dodge, Chrysler. The list goes on.
In closing, thanks for providing feedback. Regardless if it's positive or negative, I think it goes to show that we'll listen to what people have to say and forward the suggestions to the right channels for review. Have a great day! -Landan
Wow. Made much harder than the 2019 gt premium I had. Not looking forward to this.
Why did Ford beat the S650 so hard with the ugly stick? And don't get me started on the misery that is the flat panel gauge cluster.
I've owned 9 Mustang's. I currently own 3. This S650 is a fail.
Long story short u can’t afford one
Haha! Your wrong. Again.