Interesting that you commented that the right side pads were worn more than the left. I just did an inspection on the brakes on my 2018 Ram 2500 and had the same issue. The right side pads were down to 3mm and the left side was still good.
@Mr. Dozerdennis ~ As I had a bit of a brake fire in the parking lot of an AutoZone store last night, I'm going to be pulling my driver's-side-front wheel off of our 2012 Ram 2500 CTD 4x4 tomorrow. As I was watching your video, I noticed (early on) that you seemed to assemble the new front caliper and pads before you placed the assembly over your new rotor. Later in the video, it looked like you opened up the assembly, worked on the new pads and, after that, slipped the caliper over the pads. I had some trouble hearing you, at times, so perhaps you mentioned this at some point? Would you recommend taking the new caliper apart first and then bolting it to the hub assembly (the bracket that holds the caliper) -- a piece at time -- if you had to do it again? I'm not criticizing your method...far from it, I'm just trying to get myself oriented before attempting the work. By the way, I'm an old vet who's fairly new to what I would call "newer trucks." In fact, out of all the brakes I've worked on, I can't recall ever doing one with an anti-lock braking system...before now, that is...so I'm a bit nervous about that. Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated...and I have liked and subscribed. ~ Thanks very kindly for your time.
Timberwright Svs first sorry to hear about the fire. Apparently your caliper froze up. I'm also sorry for any confusion. I find it's easier to take the caliper off the bracket and deal with each piece individually as they are larger than a car's brakes. The Metal clips on the bracket Assembly I clipped in before mounting the bracket. I did put a point in there that I lost one of the clips. I had to reinstall it after mounting the bracket. This makes no difference it would probably have been easier to put the clips in after mounting the bracket. Hope this helped good luck with your installation. Thanks for commenting and subscribing.
Tell me more about the inspection. I just bought a Ram 3500 and had no idea it has to have an inspection. Where do I do one? How much does it cost? What does the inspector look for?
zombiesrule1 I live in NY and we need a Inspection by a certified Inspector. I am not sure what your laws are in your State. congratulations on the purchase. Is it a diesel? Thank you for watching
Jake I’m reaching out with an ongoing problem on my 2011 3500 Cummins 4 x 4, when turning right I am getting drivers side grinding noise and while at highway speeds when going over a high point to a low point I am getting a loud noise when coming down on the suspension, any ideas? I replaced the U joint on the drivers side and still the same noise, there is also some heating associated with the drivers side wheel and rotor. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks Jake.
harles5000 Chembetrayals thank you for watching and congratulations for owning a great pickup truck. I would have to say your brake caliper is sticking or your brake rotors have been warped. I hope this video was helpful.
Mr. Dozerdennis Subcribed thanks for your help! Much appreciated! I will try replacing the rotor and caliper and let you know. I just had the brakes redone I would have thought the shop would have recognized an issue with the caliper or rotor. I will let you know. Cheers!
Ch34pskate 1 Hi Jake, thanks for your help, as it turns out I replaced a seized caliper and installed a new rotor on the drivers side and on the passenger side I replaced the caliper and a warped and seized rotor. After a 1 hr road test I checked for the heating with a thermogun both sides were lower temperature as compared to before and the squealing and grinding noise was resolved, the noise was caused by the caliper and rotor overheating on the drivers side. Thanks.
Nice to see your boy helping out and learning some new skills! His new Nickname should be the Rotor Toter! Good job son helping your Dad!
You have a really great helper.
David seaquist thank you
What are the torque specs for the pins and bolts?
Nice job! I did that to my duramax last year
Interesting that you commented that the right side pads were worn more than the left. I just did an inspection on the brakes on my 2018 Ram 2500 and had the same issue. The right side pads were down to 3mm and the left side was still good.
Thank you watching!! Not sure do you do a lot of pulling with your truck to?
@@mrandrewdennis1 I have 101K miles on the truck and 90K of those miles are towing my car hauler.
@Mr. Dozerdennis ~ As I had a bit of a brake fire in the parking lot of an AutoZone store last night, I'm going to be pulling my driver's-side-front wheel off of our 2012 Ram 2500 CTD 4x4 tomorrow. As I was watching your video, I noticed (early on) that you seemed to assemble the new front caliper and pads before you placed the assembly over your new rotor. Later in the video, it looked like you opened up the assembly, worked on the new pads and, after that, slipped the caliper over the pads. I had some trouble hearing you, at times, so perhaps you mentioned this at some point? Would you recommend taking the new caliper apart first and then bolting it to the hub assembly (the bracket that holds the caliper) -- a piece at time -- if you had to do it again? I'm not criticizing your method...far from it, I'm just trying to get myself oriented before attempting the work. By the way, I'm an old vet who's fairly new to what I would call "newer trucks." In fact, out of all the brakes I've worked on, I can't recall ever doing one with an anti-lock braking system...before now, that is...so I'm a bit nervous about that. Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated...and I have liked and subscribed. ~ Thanks very kindly for your time.
Timberwright Svs first sorry to hear about the fire. Apparently your caliper froze up. I'm also sorry for any confusion. I find it's easier to take the caliper off the bracket and deal with each piece individually as they are larger than a car's brakes. The Metal clips on the bracket Assembly I clipped in before mounting the bracket. I did put a point in there that I lost one of the clips. I had to reinstall it after mounting the bracket. This makes no difference it would probably have been easier to put the clips in after mounting the bracket. Hope this helped good luck with your installation. Thanks for commenting and subscribing.
Hi!! What minimun measure rotor brake ?
Tell me more about the inspection. I just bought a Ram 3500 and had no idea it has to have an inspection. Where do I do one? How much does it cost? What does the inspector look for?
zombiesrule1 what state do you live in?
@@mrandrewdennis1 Michigan
zombiesrule1 I live in NY and we need a Inspection by a certified Inspector. I am not sure what your laws are in your State. congratulations on the purchase. Is it a diesel? Thank you for watching
@@mrandrewdennis1 Yes, it's a Ram 3500, 5.9 Cummins. Hoping to make extra money on the side and use it on my farm.
For sure you should have no problems with that engine.
Helpful video
Jake I’m reaching out with an ongoing problem on my 2011 3500 Cummins 4 x 4, when turning right I am getting drivers side grinding noise and while at highway speeds when going over a high point to a low point I am getting a loud noise when coming down on the suspension, any ideas? I replaced the U joint on the drivers side and still the same noise, there is also some heating associated with the drivers side wheel and rotor. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks Jake.
harles5000 Chembetrayals thank you for watching and congratulations for owning a great pickup truck. I would have to say your brake caliper is sticking or your brake rotors have been warped. I hope this video was helpful.
Please be sure to hit the subscribe button!
Mr. Dozerdennis Subcribed thanks for your help! Much appreciated! I will try replacing the rotor and caliper and let you know. I just had the brakes redone I would have thought the shop would have recognized an issue with the caliper or rotor. I will let you know. Cheers!
Might wanna check your wheel bearing as well after the overheating.
Ch34pskate 1 Hi Jake, thanks for your help, as it turns out I replaced a seized caliper and installed a new rotor on the drivers side and on the passenger side I replaced the caliper and a warped and seized rotor. After a 1 hr road test I checked for the heating with a thermogun both sides were lower temperature as compared to before and the squealing and grinding noise was resolved, the noise was caused by the caliper and rotor overheating on the drivers side. Thanks.
I get the same rust problems over here in NH too, nice video man!