www.manualslib.com has the user manual for free download. Get the one for 95-10 as well, it contains the directions for setting the needle bar height and hook timing. The 95 is the short arm version of the 96, otherwise they are identical. No reverse, you learn work arounds.
@@kevinorr6880 If it's missing the ID plate below the stitch regulator it can be hard to pin down. The differences are not always obvious and for most purposes aren't terribly relevant.
@@joekahno would you happen to have knowledge of resources? I’m understanding that it is similar to the 95, but longer. I need to replace belts and am really struggling to find parts so far. I’m sure I just have hit the right research button yet. I have been searching for days. Needs to be retired too.
@@kevinorr6880 The vintage industrial sewing machine group on Facebook is a great place to start. A couple of the members are retired mechanics that used to care for these machine in a factory setting and have dealt with every imaginable problem. Manualslib.com has the user guide for both 96 and 95 series. The 95 is just the short arm version of the 96 and is otherwise the same which is good because they left the adjusters section out of the 96 manual. Try this link. www.manualslib.com/manual/524644/Singer-95-10.html
@@joekahno I've had them hot enough to start to melt nylon thread a little, I get filaments attaching to the eye. Though honestly that's from thickness, not speed.
@@theprojectproject01 Thickness and the nature of the material. I've done quite a few projects using recycled seat belt webbing with no issues because of the relatively open weave where the same thickness of leather would have had the needle smokin'.
Joe, do you know if, or how, the upper arm shaft gear case (Simanco 52071 can be removed? I just got two of these machines, they run smoothly and make a good stitch. But the insides of the pillars are coated with very old grease, and the gear cases really need removal and thorough cleaning. The lower case are not problem. Can't see how to remove the front-half of the upper case without removing the vertical pitman. Thx
I managed to get the front half off and back on again. Reassembly required packing a wad of fabric behind the rear half to get the screw started. There is supposed to be a wick from an oil port to a gap where the two halves mate so an oil drip supplements the grease, washing it out over time. I've heard from a couple of people that if you somehow manage to get the back half of the upper case out, you will never get it back in. If I were doing it again I'd fill the case with heavy gear oil, change it after a couple hours of run time and repeat until clean. Then pack with a good grade of automotive chassis grease. Don't use the high temp stuff it never gets warm enough to flow properly.
@@joekahno Very many thanks for taking the time. Quietly, I'd come to the same conclusion - don't get that half out 'cause you'll never get it back in. It's interesting that there are oil ports that trickle down on both the top and bottom cases. And, yes, I did encounter the wad of cloth (after 92 years that really didn't surprise me). I'll attack the ancient greased interior with mineral oil and brushes. Again, thank you.
Just my 2 cents: No, I would not use car cleaner, not from a can or the aerosol type. Reason: the fumes are too strong for me, cutting that kind of old grease would take a lot of carb cleaner which is not cheap, carb cleaner has such low viscosity that it sprays and splashes easily so you would need a face shield to be safe, carb cleaner will probably strip/damage the exterior paint (so that rules out putting in a tank of carb cleaner). Also, it's pretty flammable, and a headache to store safely. I think you get my drift. Lastly, assuming you are using something other than water as a cleaner, always have a fire extinguisher within reach (5-lb most common), and enough ventilation in the room to be safe.
Singer 96-10 Industrial. It's a straight lockstitch with a rotary hook. While it's described as a "mid-weight" machine, material that was middle weight in 1910 is on the heavy side of the spectrum today. With the right feed dogs and needle plates it will handle anything from chiffon to six layers of 10oz canvas but works best with woven goods rather than leather or extruded material like vinyl.
@@joekahno awesome 👍 i own many Singers from 1895 to 1960 and only been collecting for few years so i allways love learning new machines well old new to me lol ,just got a 1898 treadle 16 - 35 industrial , you can stop by my channel to see my collection if interested in old Singers , i have an addiction problem .......lol
I've seen them broken, but not running. Awesome!
Muito bom parabéns pelo canal ótimo conteúdo
Excited to be picking one of these up tomorrow. Do you know if there's a manual available online? Does it have reverse?
www.manualslib.com has the user manual for free download. Get the one for 95-10 as well, it contains the directions for setting the needle bar height and hook timing. The 95 is the short arm version of the 96, otherwise they are identical. No reverse, you learn work arounds.
@@joekahno I just acquired a 96 from 1917. Trying to figure out what sub-class of 96 it is. Looking to renovate
@@kevinorr6880 If it's missing the ID plate below the stitch regulator it can be hard to pin down. The differences are not always obvious and for most purposes aren't terribly relevant.
@@joekahno would you happen to have knowledge of resources? I’m understanding that it is similar to the 95, but longer. I need to replace belts and am really struggling to find parts so far. I’m sure I just have hit the right research button yet. I have been searching for days. Needs to be retired too.
@@kevinorr6880 The vintage industrial sewing machine group on Facebook is a great place to start. A couple of the members are retired mechanics that used to care for these machine in a factory setting and have dealt with every imaginable problem. Manualslib.com has the user guide for both 96 and 95 series. The 95 is just the short arm version of the 96 and is otherwise the same which is good because they left the adjusters section out of the 96 manual. Try this link. www.manualslib.com/manual/524644/Singer-95-10.html
How is that needle not glowing red
Because each time it punches through the fabric it's in a new place. Even so, you wouldn't want to touch it at the end of a long run.
@@joekahno I've had them hot enough to start to melt nylon thread a little, I get filaments attaching to the eye. Though honestly that's from thickness, not speed.
@@theprojectproject01 Thickness and the nature of the material. I've done quite a few projects using recycled seat belt webbing with no issues because of the relatively open weave where the same thickness of leather would have had the needle smokin'.
Joe, do you know if, or how, the upper arm shaft gear case (Simanco 52071 can be removed? I just got two of these machines, they run smoothly and make a good stitch. But the insides of the pillars are coated with very old grease, and the gear cases really need removal and thorough cleaning. The lower case are not problem. Can't see how to remove the front-half of the upper case without removing the vertical pitman. Thx
I managed to get the front half off and back on again. Reassembly required packing a wad of fabric behind the rear half to get the screw started. There is supposed to be a wick from an oil port to a gap where the two halves mate so an oil drip supplements the grease, washing it out over time. I've heard from a couple of people that if you somehow manage to get the back half of the upper case out, you will never get it back in. If I were doing it again I'd fill the case with heavy gear oil, change it after a couple hours of run time and repeat until clean. Then pack with a good grade of automotive chassis grease. Don't use the high temp stuff it never gets warm enough to flow properly.
@@joekahno Very many thanks for taking the time. Quietly, I'd come to the same conclusion - don't get that half out 'cause you'll never get it back in. It's interesting that there are oil ports that trickle down on both the top and bottom cases. And, yes, I did encounter the wad of cloth (after 92 years that really didn't surprise me). I'll attack the ancient greased interior with mineral oil and brushes. Again, thank you.
@@mostlymetalmachines9249 so rinsing with a carb cleaner is not a good idea?
Just my 2 cents: No, I would not use car cleaner, not from a can or the aerosol type. Reason: the fumes are too strong for me, cutting that kind of old grease would take a lot of carb cleaner which is not cheap, carb cleaner has such low viscosity that it sprays and splashes easily so you would need a face shield to be safe, carb cleaner will probably strip/damage the exterior paint (so that rules out putting in a tank of carb cleaner). Also, it's pretty flammable, and a headache to store safely. I think you get my drift.
Lastly, assuming you are using something other than water as a cleaner, always have a fire extinguisher within reach (5-lb most common), and enough ventilation in the room to be safe.
What model is this ?
Singer 96-10 Industrial. It's a straight lockstitch with a rotary hook. While it's described as a "mid-weight" machine, material that was middle weight in 1910 is on the heavy side of the spectrum today. With the right feed dogs and needle plates it will handle anything from chiffon to six layers of 10oz canvas but works best with woven goods rather than leather or extruded material like vinyl.
@@joekahno awesome 👍 i own many Singers from 1895 to 1960 and only been collecting for few years so i allways love learning new machines well old new to me lol ,just got a 1898 treadle 16 - 35 industrial , you can stop by my channel to see my collection if interested in old Singers , i have an addiction problem .......lol