Thanks for sharing. I work as a designer/pattern maker for a sporting goods brand so I can very much relate to this video since I use different kinds of sewing machines for my work. I mostly use a Juki arm sewing machine, great for all those thick layers of leather and an old Seiko arm sewing machine with a roller. I have 3 mods that you can add to yours: 1. Put a cushion on your knee lifter, it'll make it more comfortable 2. I attached a box with an open top (around 30x30cm) at my spool holder so that it could hold up to 9 different threads. 3. Try looking for an adjustable sewing guide that can attach beside the walking foot. It can when you're sewing near the edge of the material. Hope these help and keep making great content sir!
I recently purchased an Industrial sewing machine, model Refrey 906 K-3. I bought it because I'm an individual who likes to make.... I'm a mechanical engineer and I'm passionate about the construction of artifacts. This video of yours, validates my tendency to invest in robust equipment even though it is already a few years old
I have a Zoje walking foot that’s rebranded as a Singer. It’s equivalent to a Juki 1181. I don’t think the walking foot is strictly necessary but it is a nice feature. It walks right over thick stuff like sewing across a seam in thick fabric. I use Guterman Tera 80 thread. It’s a little lighter than the thread in the video but consistent and very strong. I did switch my table top out with a wooden one from Sailright. That was just an aesthetic upgrade. Modern industrial sewing machine table cutouts are fairly standard but there is a short, medium and long cutout that you have to be aware of. Older machines have a little different cutouts. One could also make their own tabletop if they were handy with a router.
I have 2 OLD Singer sewing machines a 111W155 ( compound walking foot ) Built in 1945 and a Singer 241-12 Built in 1943 Just a straight stitch ... BUT can sew 1/2 inch of leather! Both of my machines don't have a reversing leaver. Not a problem if you just back stitch by knee lifting the foot and pull the material back . Upgraded to servo motors on both . I got the 111w155 for free ( on craigslist ) it needed work ( a timing belt ) . But well worth it ( even if you have to pay someone else to fix it . I fixed mine ) Both are beasts.... No plastic parts in old machines ! I do Auto upholstery with it . The 241-12 I use also in Upholstry But also sew rip stop nylon for kites on it .... I tell anyone that will listen that the older the machine the better, Neither one ever breaks. I also put a smaller pull on the new motors to make it run even slower ....
I've been rescuing the vintage sewing machines the last month or so with last week venturing into my first antique treadles. From my observations (I've not even sewn with them yet) and research, the early to mid 1970's and older domestic all metal machines are more like the industrial sewing machines compared the modern domestic sewing machines. Those vintage and antique ones can be found for under $150 if not an even more awesome price. You might have to restore or at least clean, unstick and oil... plus tune tensions... though maintenance on anything is a great skill to know. From my observations of the beefy all metal vintage domestics (Belair 600, Sear-Kenmore & Dressmaker)... they all have reverse and even more stitch selections (especially the cam design ones) that I have no idea if I'll ever use. The antiques (Singer VS-2 27 & White FR), other than attachments by Geist, only sew in straight stitch with no reverse option. The hybrid occupied Japan Belair 600 which is a Singer 66 internals and a Singer 201 outer design can do reverse... where I was thinking that 1.0A motor was heavy duty... uh yeah... I'm just rescuing/restoring and passing em forward other than the ones I'll keep. So learning something new every day. Thanks for sharing Eric, didn't know much anything about the industrial sewing machines.
I just got an 8700. Got the brushless motor too and also got a needle position sensor that helps even more and should plug right into your controller box. I set it for needle down and will always stop there then push pedal back toward me and it raises needle. Needs some dialing in to make needle up at the right spot where the take up lever is all the way at the top. Helps with making corners. Can also tap the pedal normal to make one stitch at a time when sneaking up on corners Bolts right onto hand wheel. You should look into it
I Never touched a sewing machine before (well, only bought two vintage domestic machines very recently but not used). Now got a brother DB2-B715 very cheap and I'm liking it. It's a beast!
The original Bernina Record 830 which was sold as a portable in the 1970s was also the same machine that the company sold as their industrial machine except it was put into a table with a bigger motor. Unfortunately it did not have a walking pressure foot. I bought mine new in 1974. It is still popular and current market value is $300 + because it really was very well made. From the beginning I have used it on heavier materials. The pressure foot is hinged close to the fulcrum point so it does have good speed control.
Nice video your upgradelist is good. I worked in textiles for 18 years. DC servois a must for sure. I would recommend a compound walking foot machine for its heavy duty capacity and more control in the turns. They are good for upholstery, wilderness gear, work clothes, and more. But not for fine dress making. Just a thought, I hope this helps.
I dig how you customize your tools to suit your design needs. In this case I can see how much more useful it is to have drilled those holes in the foot pedal. Nice job! Love your channel. Happy Holidays!
I have a walking foot medium to heavy duty industrial machine ...I also put a servo motor on it to make it user friendly....I'm new to this type of machine and have made a few projects ( eg. A multiple pocket quilted shooting jacket ) to get used to it but would love for other users to put on videos of specific projects that helped them to get maximum use out of their machines and also tips to making sewing easier on these machines.
I like the drilled holes in the pedal. My pedal was all loosy at the pivot points from wear so I pulled it out, welder a shaft in place then used pillow ball bearings on both sides in place of the metal on metal sliding mechanism. It's very smooth now. I switched to a servo but I'm not happy with it. It has a large dead zone before the machine starts to sew. Seems related to the speed knob. I'm probably going to switch to a brushless setup like yours.
Yeah. Sounds like just a bad motor most of them don’t do that. I bet you’ll be happy with a different one that is better quality if you haven’t switched it out already.
Funny thing you posted this as I found a Nakajima industrial sewing machine and was going to sell it. But I decided to hold onto it because their could be useful future projects. Same table and everything.. So hopefully I can get to it!
Whow I've been sewing for 50 plus yrs I've made so much individual orders I've consew flat bed. siruba serger from evening gowns wedding gowns appolsrtry alterations zips jeans alterations I haven't used them much now I had a stroke and can't manage footer properly but it was very interesting on your technique etc
I have 2 industrial machines,an old singer 111W 154 and a juki 562. Iv'e messed with both of them. The Juki has a modified clutch motor that has better speed control then the servo on the singer. The singer didn't have reverse so I added a reverse mechanism long before the internet so I had nothing to copy. Supprizingly close to the 111w156. It works very well. You asked so I crowed.
I "rescued" a Singer 111G156. Walking foot and reverse (not all the 111 have reverse) I made a new table top because the old one was sagging. This thing (plus the motor) is heavy! For the servo I went with a Sailrite Workhorse. Similar price to most others I've looked at, but with a 2 year warranty.
Just got a Juki DLN 415-4. I can't believe how fast the thing is?? It's magnificent, unbelievable really. But I don't want it that fast hahaha, switch the pulley and lengthened the arm that comes off the clutch motor (same idea you had with the holes in the pedal, I might actually doo that too! Genius!) I'll be using it for boat upholstery! Awesome video!
@@EricStrebel a larger area of action means you have more slow to use. with your setup it will happen more quickly and abruptly. it's aggresive. try it it the other way you'll see what i mean.
Wow . I’m evaluating a nice fine now . Thank you. So glad I found your channel. THE STARS ALIGNED. I HAVE TO FIGURE OUT HOW TO MOVE THEM ALL . Third edit to comment . Super duper cool video .
I own several industrial sewing machines, all of them are Juki. LU-1541, LU-1508, LU-1508NH, LU1510, LU-1560, LU-2810, LU-1341, TNU-143, LK-1900BN and a MO-6816
I didn't go industrial. I got a 1940's Singer 66 that has been able to handle anything I've thrown at it. I've upgraded to a more powerful motor and replaced the rheostat foot pedal with a digital one. I have been thinking about adding LED lighting, but otherwise I've been very happy with how it performs.
I'm a sewing machine junkie. I have everything from the singer featherweight to a 1911 White, all the way up to a cheap crappy Kenmore that does embroidery. I like to do free motion quilting and home machines just don't cut it. There are a number of semi-industrial machines on the market that so 1500 stitches per minute. But I've got my eye on the juki ddl-550. They're everywhere and they're made in japan. I'm also seeing a ton of industrial machines on craigslist, just like you mentioned for next to nothing. The only thing that concerns me is that giant table. I live in California and we have tiny bedrooms here.
i heard that you could also buy a different wheel size for inside your turn wheel on the right. it will slow it down if you make the size smaller if i remember correctly…
@@EricStrebel can u update an industrial single feed brother to a industrial walking foot if u had someone potentially weld another area for foot or is there more to it then that? thanks for your help. i know about the little walking foot attachments. i just think i need a walking foot to make these hats im trying to make with several layers of polyester and felt layers as stuffing to give structue the walking foot would help me so much if i can’t i’m just gonna probably update my machine head i guess. also my stupid motor seems to smell smokey when i sew for 10 mins or also if i go slow. i hope it’s just because it sat but i have no idea.
Dear Eric, Every time i check your subscriber. Something wrong(pretty wrong).You must have hit 1 million sub till now. I hope and every time cross my finger for you. I believe it will happen in this year.
Does the brushless servo motor upgrade result in any less sewing power?? My mom picked one up to do everything but I can tell she's nervous/set on learning the crazy speed of the machine. The speed control would be a great addition/mothers day gift
Don't know, I'm not concerned about going fast for me it's all about going slow and control. The motor is quieter just as powerful as the original and has great control.
It’s probably your bobbin tension. Your bobbin should have a little tension screw on it. As a general rule, the bobbin tension should just support the weight of the bobbin if you holt it by the thread. Moving your hand up and down should cause it to let thread out. Also make sure your needle is turned the right way. It should hav a flat spot near the eye that needs to face the bobbin. I’m sure there are videos that explain that better. If adjusting the bobbin doesn’t correct it, there is a chance there is an issue with the timing. It’s possible to fix that yourself but if you’re not confident it’s best to take it to a well rated repair person.
Hello Eric my company has purchase a new Reliable 5400TW Sewing machine where should I set the speed for this machine? I put the material (cloth) under the two needles & the sewing machine does not pull the material through when I try sewing what is causing that so it will automatically pull the material through? Are my tensions to loose on top? How do you thread the two loopers at the bottom of the sewing machine?
I wanted one of these back in the 70's when I got in to leatherwork. they cost $8-900, my first car cost $650, needless to say.. But I got a consew a few years ago, for a couple of hundred, putting a servo motor on it this spring,
I have a Juki DL 555 and I cant get it to sew thru canvas for like a boat cover. I changed out the needle the pressure foot and it just broke needle after needle and knocked it out of alignment. What could I have done different?
It’s great to find someone with this knowledge that’s local to me. I recently acquired a Rex model 100 in the cabinet and need to hand it serviced. Can you recommend a repair shop?
Eric, I'm glad to have found your channel. I own a Consew 226-R and have made mods to get my clutch motor to be more controllable and SLOWER. I really need to brake down and buy a servo motor. As mentioned in another comment below your link to servo you purchase is no longer available. What should one look for in spec's when looking to purchase a servo ? I was looking at the servo that Sailrite sells, more expensive than most others on the web but they (Sailrite) have a big and respected reputation. Your thoughts please. Thanks again
I have changed links to one that I believe has a plug in the back of the controller so that you can plug a light into. As for the one you mentioned, I only have used the one that I installed. If you feel the one you mentioned has a good reputations and you think it has the features for you, get the one you are comfortable with.
How are you able to sew so slow and accurate? I have the exact same unit, and with my pedal it’s very very finicky. Either nothing or fast. Super difficult to sew slow.
I purchased a ironic KS-335A industrial sewing machine from Ricoma...I've had issues with it from day one... Recently, I've had thread shredding issues...I'll get 4-5 stitches done and the thread shreds apart...any suggestions??
Very informative video. I clicked on the link for the servo motor but it came up with a list as opposed to yours. Do you have a model number of yours?? This is my first industrial machine and am seeking your assistance
anyone have a photo of what the inside should look like for a 61400b union special. I just picked one up and trying to get it running. looks like missing oil pan? wick? etc..
I don’t think the motor you have linked is the same motor as in your video. I ordered it and it is very undersized and doesn’t have enough “throw” to tension the belt. The mounting bracket doesn’t look the same either
I just bought an old Chandler DY-337. I'm trying to figure out how to create a knee lift for it as I can't find one for this model anywhere. Any ideas?
Hi Eric, Pat calling from nz. I am considering a singer 491d. Would it be possible to adapt it for free motion quilting? Home use. I know nothing about industrial machines so very grateful for your post cheers
Do you have a supplier for different feet for your industrial sewing machine? I have a Consew 230 and I'm looking for a double welt foot. Some websites state their double welt foot fits multiple machines. Just wondering if I need a Consew specific foot. Thank you!
Do your machines also have that 4 prong L14-30R power cord? I just bought a machine on craigslist for 150usd but it comes with the L14-30R power cable. Can i just buy a converter on amazon?
@@EricStrebel oh, I'm asking if your industrial's just come with a regular 3-prong power cable or a 4 prong power cable. It seems that the machine i bought comes with a 4-prong power cable similar to the ones electric generators use. L14-30R power cable to be specific.
I have a Pfaff 335 cylinder arm and every time I try to sew the threads rip or get tangled. It’s not pulling thread up from bobbin…don’t know what I’m doing wrong. Want to finish my bag with it but can’t figure it out…😢 first industrial machine ever. Def have to figure this machine out because my domestic can’t finish my bag seams that are thicker
How can you possibly do upholstery with that machine? That machine is designed to make clothes and it’s definitely not an upholstery machine! I love working on these machines due to the speed but as far as heavy duty work goes it’s not designed for that. You need a K6 walking foot instead!
Hi, I’ve just bought this same machine but when I got it home and plugged it in, it’s tripping my electric! I was wondering if you could have any ideas on why that could be happening?
If it's the original motor then something's wrong there. Of course my machine doesn't have any of that original electronics since it's all been upgraded to a brushless servo motor with speed controller.
If it's the original motor then something's wrong there. Of course my machine doesn't have any of that original electronics since it's all been upgraded to a brushless servo motor with speed controller.
Thanks for sharing. I work as a designer/pattern maker for a sporting goods brand so I can very much relate to this video since I use different kinds of sewing machines for my work. I mostly use a Juki arm sewing machine, great for all those thick layers of leather and an old Seiko arm sewing machine with a roller. I have 3 mods that you can add to yours:
1. Put a cushion on your knee lifter, it'll make it more comfortable
2. I attached a box with an open top (around 30x30cm) at my spool holder so that it could hold up to 9 different threads.
3. Try looking for an adjustable sewing guide that can attach beside the walking foot. It can when you're sewing near the edge of the material.
Hope these help and keep making great content sir!
Bought a singer 120u and can't put on the belt
I recently purchased an Industrial sewing machine, model Refrey 906 K-3. I bought it because I'm an individual who likes to make.... I'm a mechanical engineer and I'm passionate about the construction of artifacts. This video of yours, validates my tendency to invest in robust equipment even though it is already a few years old
Enjoy
I have a Zoje walking foot that’s rebranded as a Singer. It’s equivalent to a Juki 1181. I don’t think the walking foot is strictly necessary but it is a nice feature. It walks right over thick stuff like sewing across a seam in thick fabric. I use Guterman Tera 80 thread. It’s a little lighter than the thread in the video but consistent and very strong. I did switch my table top out with a wooden one from Sailright. That was just an aesthetic upgrade. Modern industrial sewing machine table cutouts are fairly standard but there is a short, medium and long cutout that you have to be aware of. Older machines have a little different cutouts. One could also make their own tabletop if they were handy with a router.
I have 2 OLD Singer sewing machines a 111W155 ( compound walking foot ) Built in 1945 and a Singer 241-12 Built in 1943 Just a straight stitch ... BUT can sew 1/2 inch of leather! Both of my machines don't have a reversing leaver. Not a problem if you just back stitch by knee lifting the foot and pull the material back . Upgraded to servo motors on both . I got the 111w155 for free ( on craigslist ) it needed work ( a timing belt ) . But well worth it ( even if you have to pay someone else to fix it . I fixed mine ) Both are beasts.... No plastic parts in old machines ! I do Auto upholstery with it .
The 241-12 I use also in Upholstry But also sew rip stop nylon for kites on it .... I tell anyone that will listen that the older the machine the better, Neither one ever breaks.
I also put a smaller pull on the new motors to make it run even slower ....
Awesome, thanks for sharing,
what is a smaller pull ? I have 111W155 and trying to slow it down for leather work, lol
Smaller pulley,....... But that won't slow it down very much The best thing is really getting one of these new servo motors.
I've been rescuing the vintage sewing machines the last month or so with last week venturing into my first antique treadles. From my observations (I've not even sewn with them yet) and research, the early to mid 1970's and older domestic all metal machines are more like the industrial sewing machines compared the modern domestic sewing machines. Those vintage and antique ones can be found for under $150 if not an even more awesome price. You might have to restore or at least clean, unstick and oil... plus tune tensions... though maintenance on anything is a great skill to know.
From my observations of the beefy all metal vintage domestics (Belair 600, Sear-Kenmore & Dressmaker)... they all have reverse and even more stitch selections (especially the cam design ones) that I have no idea if I'll ever use. The antiques (Singer VS-2 27 & White FR), other than attachments by Geist, only sew in straight stitch with no reverse option. The hybrid occupied Japan Belair 600 which is a Singer 66 internals and a Singer 201 outer design can do reverse... where I was thinking that 1.0A motor was heavy duty... uh yeah... I'm just rescuing/restoring and passing em forward other than the ones I'll keep. So learning something new every day.
Thanks for sharing Eric, didn't know much anything about the industrial sewing machines.
Thanks for your comment much appreciated good luck with your restoration work
I just got an 8700. Got the brushless motor too and also got a needle position sensor that helps even more and should plug right into your controller box. I set it for needle down and will always stop there then push pedal back toward me and it raises needle. Needs some dialing in to make needle up at the right spot where the take up lever is all the way at the top.
Helps with making corners. Can also tap the pedal normal to make one stitch at a time when sneaking up on corners
Bolts right onto hand wheel.
You should look into it
Ok, I will, thanks for the comment
Excellent video. I just bought a new surplus industrial machine, and will be doing the servo motor and led upgrade.
I Never touched a sewing machine before (well, only bought two vintage domestic machines very recently but not used). Now got a brother DB2-B715 very cheap and I'm liking it. It's a beast!
I've just been gifted that very same machine, so I'm super excited to get going with it. Thanks for the tips.
The original Bernina Record 830 which was sold as a portable in the 1970s was also the same machine that the company sold as their industrial machine except it was put into a table with a bigger motor. Unfortunately it did not have a walking pressure foot. I bought mine new in 1974. It is still popular and current market value is $300 + because it really was very well made. From the beginning I have used it on heavier materials. The pressure foot is hinged close to the fulcrum point so it does have good speed control.
Sounds like a nice machine
Nice video your upgradelist is good. I worked in textiles for 18 years. DC servois a must for sure. I would recommend a compound walking foot machine for its heavy duty capacity and more control in the turns. They are good for upholstery, wilderness gear, work clothes, and more. But not for fine dress making. Just a thought, I hope this helps.
Totally agree, walking foot for tight tough stuff is the way to go.
Love this one E! I've done basic sewing, but I've been wanting to get into upholstery for motorcycle seats, automotive interior, etc. Great info!
Thanks Man!
I dig how you customize your tools to suit your design needs. In this case I can see how much more useful it is to have drilled those holes in the foot pedal. Nice job! Love your channel. Happy Holidays!
Cheers!
I saw one of these at Goodwill this past weekend and I’m kicking myself for not getting it. Thanks for the info!
I have a walking foot medium to heavy duty industrial machine ...I also put a servo motor on it to make it user friendly....I'm new to this type of machine and have made a few projects ( eg. A multiple pocket quilted shooting jacket ) to get used to it but would love for other users to put on videos of specific projects that helped them to get maximum use out of their machines and also tips to making sewing easier on these machines.
I wish I had a walking foot, however I have not encountered anything yet that I can not sew with my machine. Keep practicing and reaching out
Great for me to know. I sewed for the Army 1968.
I like the drilled holes in the pedal. My pedal was all loosy at the pivot points from wear so I pulled it out, welder a shaft in place then used pillow ball bearings on both sides in place of the metal on metal sliding mechanism. It's very smooth now. I switched to a servo but I'm not happy with it. It has a large dead zone before the machine starts to sew. Seems related to the speed knob. I'm probably going to switch to a brushless setup like yours.
Yeah. Sounds like just a bad motor most of them don’t do that. I bet you’ll be happy with a different one that is better quality if you haven’t switched it out already.
Thank you, Eric, for these excellent Basics
Funny thing you posted this as I found a Nakajima industrial sewing machine and was going to sell it. But I decided to hold onto it because their could be useful future projects. Same table and everything.. So hopefully I can get to it!
Good luck!
I have one of these Nakajima industrial mine was made for REX it is a Great machine
Whow I've been sewing for 50 plus yrs I've made so much individual orders I've consew flat bed. siruba serger from evening gowns wedding gowns appolsrtry alterations zips jeans alterations I haven't used them much now I had a stroke and can't manage footer properly but it was very interesting on your technique etc
I have 2 industrial machines,an old singer 111W 154 and a juki 562. Iv'e messed with both of them. The Juki has a modified clutch motor that has better speed control then the servo on the singer. The singer didn't have reverse so I added a reverse mechanism long before the internet so I had nothing to copy. Supprizingly close to the 111w156. It works very well. You asked so I crowed.
How did you go about adding the reverse?
where did you find the hardware to add a reverese? Please advise
That was already on the machine
I "rescued" a Singer 111G156. Walking foot and reverse (not all the 111 have reverse)
I made a new table top because the old one was sagging. This thing (plus the motor) is heavy!
For the servo I went with a Sailrite Workhorse. Similar price to most others I've looked at, but with a 2 year warranty.
Cool, thanks for sharing, much appreciated.
We just bought several industrial sewing machines and this video was informative
Excellent
@@EricStrebel thanks dude, I don't know how to use these yet but we are learning.
I have a video about basic different stitch types that might be useful. Good luck and have fun
@@EricStrebel thanks again
Just got a Juki DLN 415-4. I can't believe how fast the thing is?? It's magnificent, unbelievable really. But I don't want it that fast hahaha, switch the pulley and lengthened the arm that comes off the clutch motor (same idea you had with the holes in the pedal, I might actually doo that too! Genius!) I'll be using it for boat upholstery!
Awesome video!
Thanks
a broader range of friction point on your pedal actually gives you more control, the more travel the better.
I want it to go slow, so I want less action on the lever is best for me.
@@EricStrebel a larger area of action means you have more slow to use. with your setup it will happen more quickly and abruptly. it's aggresive. try it it the other way you'll see what i mean.
No, I only want the actual throttle lever to move a little bit
@@EricStrebel i call that a poppy clutch and it's good for long work. had to fix it many times. but i deal with walking feet
i swapped my serger motor for a servo. turned a great machine into something heavenly
Yup
Really neat. Now you';ve got me looking at industrual sewing machines...I live with no room for one of these..one day.
Wow . I’m evaluating a nice fine now . Thank you. So glad I found your channel. THE STARS ALIGNED. I HAVE TO FIGURE OUT HOW TO MOVE THEM ALL . Third edit to comment . Super duper cool video .
You’ve got the best videos. Thank you for all your hard work and teaching me soo many things!
I own several industrial sewing machines, all of them are Juki. LU-1541, LU-1508, LU-1508NH, LU1510, LU-1560, LU-2810, LU-1341, TNU-143, LK-1900BN and a MO-6816
Cool. Lucky
Thank you - very helpful, including so many of the comments below. 👍😎👍
Awesome channel and video! So happy I found you ! Thanks
I swear you read my mind before you post these videos. Great video, very helpful!
😀👍
I didn't go industrial. I got a 1940's Singer 66 that has been able to handle anything I've thrown at it. I've upgraded to a more powerful motor and replaced the rheostat foot pedal with a digital one. I have been thinking about adding LED lighting, but otherwise I've been very happy with how it performs.
What motor and what pedal did you use?
There should be a link in the description
I'm a sewing machine junkie. I have everything from the singer featherweight to a 1911 White, all the way up to a cheap crappy Kenmore that does embroidery.
I like to do free motion quilting and home machines just don't cut it. There are a number of semi-industrial machines on the market that so 1500 stitches per minute. But I've got my eye on the juki ddl-550. They're everywhere and they're made in japan. I'm also seeing a ton of industrial machines on craigslist, just like you mentioned for next to nothing. The only thing that concerns me is that giant table. I live in California and we have tiny bedrooms here.
Very cool Eric. Thanks for sharing.
Great video and tips. Been wanting one of these machines forever. Mahalo for sharing! : )
Good luck in your search
your eyebrows are mesmerizing
Lol, mad professor eyebrows!
I have just bought the same model today for 150 euros here in Ireland
Nily done!
Such magnificent videos!
Thanks
i heard that you could also buy a different wheel size for inside your turn wheel on the right. it will slow it down if you make the size smaller if i remember correctly…
Correct but it won't change the ratio significantly, I've tried it it's not really worth it
@@EricStrebel can u update an industrial single feed brother to a industrial walking foot if u had someone potentially weld another area for foot or is there more to it then that? thanks for your help. i know about the little walking foot attachments. i just think i need a walking foot to make these hats im trying to make with several layers of polyester and felt layers as stuffing to give structue
the walking foot would help me so much if i can’t i’m just gonna probably update my machine head i guess. also my stupid motor seems to smell smokey when i sew for 10 mins or also if i go slow. i hope it’s just because it sat but i have no idea.
Dunno on that one, not likely that you can just mod or make a machine to make it a walking foot unit.
Nice.. i will share with master sewer Johanna.. she will enjoy..
Dear Eric, Every time i check your subscriber. Something wrong(pretty wrong).You must have hit 1 million sub till now. I hope and every time cross my finger for you. I believe it will happen in this year.
Thanks for information
Does the brushless servo motor upgrade result in any less sewing power?? My mom picked one up to do everything but I can tell she's nervous/set on learning the crazy speed of the machine. The speed control would be a great addition/mothers day gift
After research, the servo motor can do 100 stitches per minute, is this the maximum limit? Currently her machine can do 5500 per min.
Don't know, I'm not concerned about going fast for me it's all about going slow and control. The motor is quieter just as powerful as the original and has great control.
Awesome video! Lots of great mods. The link for the brushless server motor with controller is dead, but I believe I found the same model.
Okay cool, I will update it shortly. Thanks for letting me know
Updated the link, should be the same as what I used with the additional outlet on the back for plugging in a light
@@EricStrebel Thanks!!
Hi,My sewing machine is a DB-130GM , The top stitch is good but the bottom stitch is a mess,Help please
It’s probably your bobbin tension. Your bobbin should have a little tension screw on it. As a general rule, the bobbin tension should just support the weight of the bobbin if you holt it by the thread. Moving your hand up and down should cause it to let thread out. Also make sure your needle is turned the right way. It should hav a flat spot near the eye that needs to face the bobbin. I’m sure there are videos that explain that better. If adjusting the bobbin doesn’t correct it, there is a chance there is an issue with the timing. It’s possible to fix that yourself but if you’re not confident it’s best to take it to a well rated repair person.
Thank you great video
Do you have any videos on the Reliable 5400TW sewing machine? Thx Eric
Hello Eric my company has purchase a new Reliable 5400TW Sewing machine where should I set the speed for this machine? I put the material (cloth) under the two needles & the sewing machine does not pull the material through when I try sewing what is causing that so it will automatically pull the material through? Are my tensions to loose on top? How do you thread the two loopers at the bottom of the sewing machine?
I would reach out to a local sewing machine repair facility to have the machine serviced
I wanted one of these back in the 70's when I got in to leatherwork. they cost $8-900, my first car cost $650, needless to say.. But I got a consew a few years ago, for a couple of hundred, putting a servo motor on it this spring,
I have a Juki DL 555 and I cant get it to sew thru canvas for like a boat cover. I changed out the needle the pressure foot and it just broke needle after needle and knocked it out of alignment. What could I have done different?
Have the machine serviced, something is out of alignment
It’s great to find someone with this knowledge that’s local to me. I recently acquired a Rex model 100 in the cabinet and need to hand it serviced. Can you recommend a repair shop?
Sew quick in oak park MI
I can't find the link for the DC motor you used, I have a phaff 145c
Should be in the description below the video. If they are not available anymore, let me know and I will set up a new one
Btw, my quota at Lee jeans back in the 1980’s was 1100 waistbands per day🤷🏼♀️
Thanks
Good video
I am not able to take this type of machine into have it serviced. What are your suggestions?
Call a service place to send a technician, that's what I do.
I want buy an industriel machine for the first time but i still dont know which one is good and silent
Eric, I'm glad to have found your channel. I own a Consew 226-R and have made mods to get my clutch motor to be more controllable and SLOWER. I really need to brake down and buy a servo motor. As mentioned in another comment below your link to servo you purchase is no longer available. What should one look for in spec's when looking to purchase a servo ? I was looking at the servo that Sailrite sells, more expensive than most others on the web but they (Sailrite) have a big and respected reputation. Your thoughts please. Thanks again
I have changed links to one that I believe has a plug in the back of the controller so that you can plug a light into. As for the one you mentioned, I only have used the one that I installed. If you feel the one you mentioned has a good reputations and you think it has the features for you, get the one you are comfortable with.
On a singer 96-10 the needle don’t go down all the way it hit the bobin shaft
So I’m not able to use the machine
Thanks a tonenne.
Hi ,I have the same machine, how do you change the oil and or top it up .
I'm currently upgrading my 1925 Singer, 111W113 machine to a servo motor, the clutch motor was way to fast
I just purchased a 111w113 from someone and have no clue where to begin. Would you be able to tell me what else I need to buy besides the motor? 😢
How are you able to sew so slow and accurate?
I have the exact same unit, and with my pedal it’s very very finicky. Either nothing or fast. Super difficult to sew slow.
I purchased a ironic KS-335A industrial sewing machine from Ricoma...I've had issues with it from day one... Recently, I've had thread shredding issues...I'll get 4-5 stitches done and the thread shreds apart...any suggestions??
Very informative video.
I clicked on the link for the servo motor but it came up with a list as opposed to yours. Do you have a model number of yours?? This is my first industrial machine and am seeking your assistance
nope, send me to the correct one, not sure what is going on with you link.
How has that replacement motor held up?
I’m trying to ruffle tulle on my machine and setting recommendations ?? I put my stitch length at 4 and tighten my tension
Здравствуйте. Вы не подскажите где можно купить швейную машину BROTHER lt2-b838.? Благодарю вас.
anyone have a photo of what the inside should look like for a 61400b union special. I just picked one up and trying to get it running. looks like missing oil pan? wick? etc..
Any tips on a Brother DB2 B791 705 industrial sewing machine. I can’t locate anything on it to thread or anything.
Kaphatnék arról információt, hogy hová kell az olajat tölteni? Köszönöm szépen
I don’t think the motor you have linked is the same motor as in your video. I ordered it and it is very undersized and doesn’t have enough “throw” to tension the belt. The mounting bracket doesn’t look the same either
I just got a Singer Model 2961 D300A and can't find out alot of info on it .could you assist
Sorry, zero experience with singers
What type of of oil go in the base ?
Sewing machine oil
Do Elna make industrial machines?
I just bought an old Chandler DY-337. I'm trying to figure out how to create a knee lift for it as I can't find one for this model anywhere. Any ideas?
Nope, you might have to fabricate something
Ending song from The Mandolorian?
Correct
Bought a singer 120u and can't put on the belt
How do you remove the bobbin holder out of Pfaff Industry sewing machine #497514,and or 1/11W?
Sorry, not familiar with that machine, but in general you need to tilt the machine backward to access the bobbin underneath the machine.
I have a old machine I’m fixing and I need those caps all over the machine, what’s the name of them ?
Can someone please help me thread a singer 842 industrial machine. It has the foot peddle , even that box with press on button like in this video.
What belt is on the machine?
Do you happen to know in JUKi machines are made by PFAFF. They really look alike
Pfaff was squired by haskvarna, then singer group I think and is now Chinese owned.
I think everybody copied everybody once patents ran out.
Hi Eric, Pat calling from nz. I am considering a singer 491d. Would it be possible to adapt it for free motion quilting? Home use. I know nothing about industrial machines so very grateful for your post cheers
Well in theory, you are just replacing one motor for another....so I assume it would work. Good luck
@@EricStrebel thanks Eric, appreciate your quick response xxp
3:25 I’m confused why you would need to melt the ends of the thread? Is the lockstitch mechanism on the machine broken?
Keeps the thread from fraying in the future
Where do you find $300 old industrial machines??
In California I have not seen anything below $1200 on Craigslist😞
Craigslist
Do you have a supplier for different feet for your industrial sewing machine? I have a Consew 230 and I'm looking for a double welt foot. Some websites state their double welt foot fits multiple machines. Just wondering if I need a Consew specific foot. Thank you!
should be standard Singer feet. At least the Walking foot models are all Singer style. They fit Consew, Juki, Seiko, ect
i wana slap a sevvo on my vintage 206k 0r 319k
Do your machines also have that 4 prong L14-30R power cord? I just bought a machine on craigslist for 150usd but it comes with the L14-30R power cable. Can i just buy a converter on amazon?
Have no idea what you are asking me
@@EricStrebel oh, I'm asking if your industrial's just come with a regular 3-prong power cable or a 4 prong power cable. It seems that the machine i bought comes with a 4-prong power cable similar to the ones electric generators use. L14-30R power cable to be specific.
Ahhh, mine is three prong 110v , perhaps yours is 220
I got told to stick my singer 211g in dump ,just cos had a broken timing belt .
Really ??
I have a Pfaff 335 cylinder arm and every time I try to sew the threads rip or get tangled. It’s not pulling thread up from bobbin…don’t know what I’m doing wrong. Want to finish my bag with it but can’t figure it out…😢 first industrial machine ever. Def have to figure this machine out because my domestic can’t finish my bag seams that are thicker
Good luck Make sure you have the needle in all the way and are using the correct needles for your machine
@@EricStrebel thanks, had to increase the thread to Tex90 said 40-210 online but the 45 I had was shredding. Thicker thread is working beautifully!
Fantastic, also sometimes, stuff below the foot gets roughed up and needs to be smoothed out to prevent the treads from getting caught on stuff
Almost none of that is modifications. You drilled some holes and modernized the motor.
How can you possibly do upholstery with that machine? That machine is designed to make clothes and it’s definitely not an upholstery machine! I love working on these machines due to the speed but as far as heavy duty work goes it’s not designed for that. You need a K6 walking foot instead!
Will a Juki DDL 5500 handle car upholstery?
I have no idea since I don't own one of those
@@EricStrebel fair enough
I'm pretty sure that model is for shirts and clothing.
Yeah, it's plausible since it is so basic
Your very cool and smart. Are you of the tribes?
Tribes?
Hi, I’ve just bought this same machine but when I got it home and plugged it in, it’s tripping my electric! I was wondering if you could have any ideas on why that could be happening?
If it's the original motor then something's wrong there. Of course my machine doesn't have any of that original electronics since it's all been upgraded to a brushless servo motor with speed controller.
If it's the original motor then something's wrong there. Of course my machine doesn't have any of that original electronics since it's all been upgraded to a brushless servo motor with speed controller.
Nice Erick!
I want ur help in a mold project how can i contact you?
Go to about on RUclips, then my website
Sir. Thanks. Sir. India