I have this same engine & did this job 2 years ago with only a Haynes manual out in the hot sun. I worked only mornings till the tools burned my hands. That was June2015. Now this June2017 it failed again but with different symptoms. I had followed all the torque rules & got new bolts--U name it. This time I had direct experience & so I had to take advantage of that. This time I set up under a huge tree sized bush & that helped with the harsh North Carolina sun. That was good for tear-down. But when doing reassembly It seemed like I was always looking into a dark hole & misplacing flashlights. It was not easy by any means! But I did do it in half the time this time. I never did get the camshaft sprocket to come off(nor the half moon for that matter) The second time I did not try. I had installed butt connectors on that connector in the back after I cut it the first time(hood never removed) I used a post of length such that it fully opened the hood(about 8in more that with the on board rod). I had a few minor buggs this time as I was a bit overconfident; but so far-so good. Its kinda like engineering finals---REALLY GOOD to be done!!!!! This video did help me. Back in 2015 there was loads of vids on 22R; but NOTHING useful for this newer 3RZ. Mine is a 1997 Xcab E3Rz-N73 2.7L inline 4 with coil pack and 5 speed manual transmission.
I don't know where you are in life or what the fuck you are doing, but this is your real talent. Amazing videos. Took me 3 months but I got the whole job done thanks to this video. Thank you again brother!
@@pyrathian posted that comment a year ago. Had my Tacoma fixed a year ago. I used a Haynes. She is running perfect and solid still thanks to this video.
FYI to anyone taking this job on. I was nervous about letting tension off the the timing chain because I did not want it to skip a tooth on the crank gear (my TDC marks on crank were rusted over). However due to the design and tolerances of the guides and tensioner the chain can never slip between the guides and slack down at the crank to skip a tooth. It's a good design. Let the chain fall right in place. When reinstalling the head do with care not to damage the plastics on the guides that stick up past the steel sections, I learned the hard way!
Not sure about removing the timing chain tensioner. I did it and while turning the crank pulley to align TDC, I heard a few "clicks" and am pretty sure I skipped a few teeth. Now I gotta fix that mistake. Oh well...
If you are going to go through the trouble of doing this, do yourself a favor and stud the thing. Using ARP head studs and an OEM head gasket and you will never need to do this again. New valve seals while you have the head off as well. Check the head for cracks, and if you are lucky like me your exhaust manifold will be so badly cracked it splits in two in your hands.
@@jasonwood5782 im doing this job rightnow in the manual it says that is the correct sequence, but i notice other people do it the opposite which way do I go? Inside to outer or outer bolts to inside bolts
I made it to part 3! Good news, the exhaust manifold bolts were a piece of cake to break loose. I am having trouble loosing the camshaft timing gear from the intake camshaft. I'm using a crappy standard wrench to hold the camshaft and a socket wrench with long breaker bar on the bolt with no luck (partly because I can't hold the wrench with much force - may need to buy something else...). Any tips? Also I have yet to take off the distributor gear on the exhaust side - is this required (I didn't notice a good reason). PS - the issue I mentioned in Part 1 with fuel leaking/pooling was due to much pressure in the fuel system - removing gas cap solved the problem. Thanks!
Hey ! The Timing gear bolt was also a hassle to us. We put steel pipes at the end of the wrenches used in order to increase the radius from your hand to the bolt which allows you to increase the torque you apply to get it out. For the distributor i wouldnt know for sure since we had a coil pack ...id think you could leave it on there but you would have to look it up to be sure.
I had an issue as well and no one to help lol. I used a rachet strap to hold the handle through the hole on my big crescent wrench down to my tire, but be careful not to smash your fender that way.
Hey man i been watching your videos and it seems you know what you are doing.... i have a 1997 Toyota Tacoma 2.7 liter and its making this real bad knocking kinda noise but its not like a constant noise... it almost sounds like something is just floating around inside the head the motor i believe has like 100k on it... maybe 120k i cant remember... we bought a newer motor for the truck a couple years ago and payed about 5k all around for the motor and job to get it done... so i am just trying to ask around and see if anyone has any ideas about the sound..... like i said sounds like something is loose inside the head just slapping around.... but i took the head off today and everything was tightened down and i could see thing loose... the timing chain almost felt too tight... but i don't know very much.... today after taking the head off i put if back on and then went and did a oil change and put some oil stabilizer into it to help stop leaks and shit... and a motor flush before i put all that in... it almost got rid of the sound when you first start the truck up.... but when the idle goes up the sound come's back.... anyways thanks for reading this if you do here is the video...... ruclips.net/video/uYkfURYQDOg/видео.html thanks again also like i am thinking it could be one of the cam shaft lobes maybe hitting the top of the head... i don't know lol but it is loud.... way louder then what the video shows so its kinda scary to start it and or even drive it... we have not driven it in several months because of this noise...
Just a possibility...The drivers side timing chain guide were plastic. And they had a tendency to crack and or break. Metal replacements are available.
I have this same engine & did this job 2 years ago with only a Haynes manual out in the hot sun. I worked only mornings till the tools burned my hands. That was June2015. Now this June2017 it failed again but with different symptoms. I had followed all the torque rules & got new bolts--U name it. This time I had direct experience & so I had to take advantage of that. This time I set up under a huge tree sized bush & that helped with the harsh North Carolina sun. That was good for tear-down. But when doing reassembly It seemed like I was always looking into a dark hole & misplacing flashlights. It was not easy by any means! But I did do it in half the time this time. I never did get the camshaft sprocket to come off(nor the half moon for that matter) The second time I did not try. I had installed butt connectors on that connector in the back after I cut it the first time(hood never removed) I used a post of length such that it fully opened the hood(about 8in more that with the on board rod). I had a few minor buggs this time as I was a bit overconfident; but so far-so good. Its kinda like engineering finals---REALLY GOOD to be done!!!!! This video did help me. Back in 2015 there was loads of vids on 22R; but NOTHING useful for this newer 3RZ. Mine is a 1997 Xcab E3Rz-N73 2.7L inline 4 with coil pack and 5 speed manual transmission.
I don't know where you are in life or what the fuck you are doing, but this is your real talent. Amazing videos. Took me 3 months but I got the whole job done thanks to this video. Thank you again brother!
Your video editing and video annotation skills are impressive. I'm surprised you haven't done a bunch more videos. Nice work.
I lied.....Did it myself....Great video young Sir and thanks again for posting. Now you need to do a video of putting it back together.
play the video in reverse super slowly
@@Kris-cw8hj Don't do this actually, there are specific torque settings you need to follow when reassembling :) get a haynes or chiltons manual.
@@pyrathian posted that comment a year ago. Had my Tacoma fixed a year ago. I used a Haynes. She is running perfect and solid still thanks to this video.
@@Kris-cw8hj Sweet! glad to hear it!
That was excellent, Well done! Your instructions were very easy to follow.
FYI to anyone taking this job on. I was nervous about letting tension off the the timing chain because I did not want it to skip a tooth on the crank gear (my TDC marks on crank were rusted over). However due to the design and tolerances of the guides and tensioner the chain can never slip between the guides and slack down at the crank to skip a tooth. It's a good design. Let the chain fall right in place. When reinstalling the head do with care not to damage the plastics on the guides that stick up past the steel sections, I learned the hard way!
Not sure about removing the timing chain tensioner. I did it and while turning the crank pulley to align TDC, I heard a few "clicks" and am pretty sure I skipped a few teeth. Now I gotta fix that mistake. Oh well...
Nice job and choice of music 👍👍
Tip: valve cover gasket bolt works as a service bolt!!
I love your videos very detailed and clear!! Keep it up
Credence and mechanics, nice👍
Thank you for this, my engine skipped timing I dont know how much yet, but I know the valve did kiss the piston head so, let's have some fun!
it is an interferance engine,so most likeley youl have take the head to the shop to replace any bent valves.
Great video extremely helpful
If you are going to go through the trouble of doing this, do yourself a favor and stud the thing. Using ARP head studs and an OEM head gasket and you will never need to do this again. New valve seals while you have the head off as well. Check the head for cracks, and if you are lucky like me your exhaust manifold will be so badly cracked it splits in two in your hands.
Great song!
A dúvida que eu tenho é no motor 3RZ FE Toyota Tacoma 2002 , qdo vc acelere tá se abafar no colector de admissão o quê pode provocar isso ?
how do you know its the intake manifold?are there any tdc,s?is your check engine light on?
Sorry to say but you have loosen up the head bolts the wrong way. You did the tightening sequence. Loosening is the opposite.
I noticed that also… It’s the only reason I came to the comments to see if anybody else mentioned it, and you’re the ONLY one
@@jasonwood5782 im doing this job rightnow in the manual it says that is the correct sequence, but i notice other people do it the opposite which way do I go? Inside to outer or outer bolts to inside bolts
Great video set. Thanks for posting.......But think I'll get someone else to tackle the job.....
do you recommend doing the timing chain as well?
what is the torque setting on the 3rz fe cam bolt on a year 2000
Instructions unclear. Theres a piston inside of my exhaust
I made it to part 3! Good news, the exhaust manifold bolts were a piece of cake to break loose. I am having trouble loosing the camshaft timing gear from the intake camshaft. I'm using a crappy standard wrench to hold the camshaft and a socket wrench with long breaker bar on the bolt with no luck (partly because I can't hold the wrench with much force - may need to buy something else...). Any tips?
Also I have yet to take off the distributor gear on the exhaust side - is this required (I didn't notice a good reason).
PS - the issue I mentioned in Part 1 with fuel leaking/pooling was due to much pressure in the fuel system - removing gas cap solved the problem.
Thanks!
Hey ! The Timing gear bolt was also a hassle to us. We put steel pipes at the end of the wrenches used in order to increase the radius from your hand to the bolt which allows you to increase the torque you apply to get it out.
For the distributor i wouldnt know for sure since we had a coil pack ...id think you could leave it on there but you would have to look it up to be sure.
I had an issue as well and no one to help lol. I used a rachet strap to hold the handle through the hole on my big crescent wrench down to my tire, but be careful not to smash your fender that way.
Hey man i been watching your videos and it seems you know what you are doing.... i have a 1997 Toyota Tacoma 2.7 liter and its making this real bad knocking kinda noise but its not like a constant noise... it almost sounds like something is just floating around inside the head the motor i believe has like 100k on it... maybe 120k i cant remember... we bought a newer motor for the truck a couple years ago and payed about 5k all around for the motor and job to get it done... so i am just trying to ask around and see if anyone has any ideas about the sound..... like i said sounds like something is loose inside the head just slapping around.... but i took the head off today and everything was tightened down and i could see thing loose... the timing chain almost felt too tight... but i don't know very much.... today after taking the head off i put if back on and then went and did a oil change and put some oil stabilizer into it to help stop leaks and shit... and a motor flush before i put all that in... it almost got rid of the sound when you first start the truck up.... but when the idle goes up the sound come's back.... anyways thanks for reading this if you do here is the video...... ruclips.net/video/uYkfURYQDOg/видео.html thanks again also like i am thinking it could be one of the cam shaft lobes maybe hitting the top of the head... i don't know lol but it is loud.... way louder then what the video shows so its kinda scary to start it and or even drive it... we have not driven it in several months because of this noise...
Just a possibility...The drivers side timing chain guide were plastic. And they had a tendency to crack and or break. Metal replacements are available.
Have a similar sound. Does it more once it warms up and at mid rpms. Kinda like a piston slap
Good job but why u stop to download the video
No hay videos en espanol
What is that sensor on the back of the head @ 5:18?
Cam position
It's not the cam shaft position sensors it's the engine coolant sensor.
There are 2 coolant temp sensor. The one on the upper radiator hose is for the gauge, the one on the rear is for the ecu.
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Can’t get off that timing chain bolt it will not budge
You get it off? An impact is the easiest, but it needs to be powerful
I don't watch any videos with music
So just throw the whole car in the trash and buy another. OK got it
Clay Watson lol not at all man I just did mine using these videos. Just pay attention to every step.
Its so hard to watch someone work on their engine with bare hands. Yikes! Your skin is your largest organ. Try to protect it.