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In the process of sending my head off for rebuild and this is literally the first time that I've had to turn a wrench on my truck besides regular basic services... Just hit 401k and have had it since almost brand new 1996... Machine shop wants around $500 to rebuild the head... I'm going to go ahead and let them do it... I'm at the point this afternoon of belt removal... I'm pretty handy but, this video is awesome as a guide as I have procrastinated for years prior to jumping in this week... It's a Toyota and still runs dependably just has a misfire on number 3...(Won't pass California smog) Was told with the amount of mileage that the valve seats are probably gone..!! We'll see... Thanks appreciate your time and effort... 😊

I am having trouble with step #14 removing the chain tensioner. I removed the two bolts but it’s stuck! Can anyone help? Is there something I’m missing about loosening the tension before trying to pull it out? I tried really hard and I think have damaged the metal by prying /: 3:05

This looks like wizardry stuff. Seeing what others are doing is somewhat terrifying nightmare

A dúvida que eu tenho é no motor 3RZ FE Toyota Tacoma 2002 , qdo vc acelere tá se abafar no colector de admissão o quê pode provocar isso ?

I don't watch any videos with music

We all have to do it dude

is it same process with 2rz?

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HOW THE HECK DO U REMEMBER WHERE TO PUT ALL THOSE HOSES

How did that filter slide out of the bracket so easy lol

That was excellent, Well done! Your instructions were very easy to follow.

Nice job and choice of music 👍👍

Need help at step 6 removing the cam gear and the PDF instructions as well as your video doesn’t highlight how specifically do you “place” the match marks. What in the world do you mean by “place” match marks??? Continue turning the motor???????

Tip: valve cover gasket bolt works as a service bolt!!

I love your videos very detailed and clear!! Keep it up

Great video thanks for the upload! The union or "banjo" bolts do not need a specific direction for fuel to route. Just thread them like any other bolt! My taco runs much better now :)

Sorry to say but you have loosen up the head bolts the wrong way. You did the tightening sequence. Loosening is the opposite.

What do you do with the power steering pump? Isn't it still connected with the fluid hoses? Do you leave them connected? I can't hang it up anywhere while it's still connected

Please help for some reason I cannot put the fuel inlet pipe bolt back in tight it won't thread? In

Instructions unclear. Theres a piston inside of my exhaust

Wondering how you get the cam gear and chain propped up and not falling into the engine.

This is Lisa and I used this video. Did it myself. Thank you so much. You can do this. I did. Big huggs 🤗

Wish me luck.

My turn.🤗

Thank you, lisa

what is the torque setting on the 3rz fe cam bolt on a year 2000

step 1 loosen fuel filler cap.

I don't know where you are in life or what the fuck you are doing, but this is your real talent. Amazing videos. Took me 3 months but I got the whole job done thanks to this video. Thank you again brother!

Thank you for this, my engine skipped timing I dont know how much yet, but I know the valve did kiss the piston head so, let's have some fun!

Good job but why u stop to download the video

Great video extremely helpful

Wheel make it roll do I have to install the timing chain tensioner in the open position or closed

If I were to replace the timing chain tensioner is there any thing I would have to take part like the timing cover or valve cover for reinstallation to make sure nothing came undone

Thai is the best vid so far

Bitchin

Step #16, I can't get the bolts through the pulley to remove the pump from the brackets. Tried just going straight to bracket to pull the whole thing at once but they can't be grabbed with socket and wrench is starting to warp the heads. Am I missing something here? Do my pulley to bracket bolts just have too big of a head to fit through the pulley wheel holes? Edit: managed to do a few mismatched steps in order to remove it, pain to say the least. Now the bolt holding the fuel rail to the fuel line is not coming off. The joys!

Thanks for the video. Just got everything off and realized parts geek sent me the wrong filter. Whomp whomp.

No hay videos en espanol

Got an immediate like for the clapton introduction

If you are going to go through the trouble of doing this, do yourself a favor and stud the thing. Using ARP head studs and an OEM head gasket and you will never need to do this again. New valve seals while you have the head off as well. Check the head for cracks, and if you are lucky like me your exhaust manifold will be so badly cracked it splits in two in your hands.

Credence and mechanics, nice👍

Your video editing and video annotation skills are impressive. I'm surprised you haven't done a bunch more videos. Nice work.

thanks!!!!

Okay rookies listen up. You do not need to remove the intake manifold or exhaust manifold. We've both intake and exhaust manifold attached to the cylinder head pull the wiring harness through the firewall disconnected from the computer and take it out as one sembly. It's much easier taking the intake off when it's on the bench and Don't Unplug fuel injectors you don't need to. Hope this helps. I know it will.

What is that sensor on the back of the head @ 5:18?

Can u rebuild a. 1rz engine.i will like to see that

Great song!

Was there any concern about lining up the holes in the bolts with the fuel pipe in/out? It seems like if you don't line those up correctly, you would get some plugged connections.?

Can’t get off that timing chain bolt it will not budge

Will this work for a 93?