Well detailed video mate, including good advice regarding the waste/sacrificial board (3mins into video), in order to protect the jig body, as I learned the hard way and significantly cut into the jig metal body with a dovetail bit. I wish I'd have seen this video first. Thanks for sharing. 👍
Yeah, I've don't it too! As long as the Periphery shape of the template isn't compromised, only surface damage you should still be able to use it. All the trend templates are available as spares though - so they can be replaced, or you can increase the main jigs capacity and potential.
@@BrainFizz Cheers mate. Yes, thankfully it was only on the flat part of the jig surface, not the removable template. I was able to use my Dremel with a small sanding disc to smooth out the blemish, then primer & black spray covered it up. Fortunately it has no impact on the level surface or workings of the jig. I'll just know not to do it again. I think it happened due to the far right template clamp being loose, which resulted in the template dropping on the right side - while I was routing on the left of the CDJ600 jig, unfortunately lowering the router cutter bit onto the jig (under the template). I really appreciate your video & advice.
Excellent walk-through, covering everything about the CDJ300 that anyone is likely to encounter. Mine spends most of its life hanging on the workshop wall, partly because I find it a depressing faff to set up. Unless I'm making lots of boxes in one go (rare) I find the time taken to get it ready dwarfs the time spent making the rest of the box! Hence I tend to use the (American terminology) 1/4-1/4-1/4 system using the router table. Far faster and easier in my view. I'll have another go with the jig though now I've seen this. Thanks for posting. 👍 🇬🇧
+Bill Carroll I was looking at making a router table boxjoint jig, but that’s no longer a priority now! If you’re looking to make a few, I’d say it’s a good investment.
Richard Morley, speed/time saver seems to be a handy thing in woodworking. Quick and easy sounds good to me, and it does look like a pretty good solid join.
Great video Richard I am pretty sure my dovetail jig can't do box joints out of the box but I might try and engineer something as they do look way easier than dovetails and just as strong
The Jig I'm using is the trend CDJ300, the combs used are different to those for the lapped dovetails (hence changing them in the video), but yes, they're much simpler and quicker for setup etc than the lapped dovetails are! I think I'm going to be pretty much leaving them set up for box joints now.
Hi Brian . Great vid . ive looked at buying the box joint comb but i cant find it with the red plastic stops and the guide or bitt . do you have to buy them as an extra or did you get them with the comb ?Thanks Pete
Hi Pete, the Red stops are red anodised aluminium, they come with the comb, along with the guide bush for the comb you purchase, so these are all included in the set... you will need to purchase the specific cutter though. Richard.
Dong Oregon about scrap! Get stuck in! The more you use it, the more you’ll realise you really can do this! Any questions down the road be sure to let me know and I’ll help as best I can!👍👍
love it, we need to produce 200 boxes with box joints.What jig will you recommend for fast setup and quickest production time. I know there is other machines that might be faster but a jig is only product that will fit in budget..
For a production of. That many boxes a jig is definitely the direction you should be taking. There a many router (and table saw) jugs available for box joints.this one will take side up to 300mm - although there is a version that will do 600mm hope this helps.
+Stiff Wood honestly I’m not sure.... it’s definitely worth a try!. I didn’t actually measure the red pins, to double check how accurately they were sized.
Great video Richard, looks very simple to use for box joint, just a thought about the blowout, could you not use the same side to cut and just swap the front board for the back board?
not really. the way they overlap/are offset, to make the joint fit means that the first pin on the front is unsupported. a better method would be to cut the backer boarder with an 'L' shape to wrap around the sides. Or just take shallow cuts for the first pin.
understand this point, im have the trend with original template and have the plate the other jig to finger joints. My question is to fabricate the pins and test. Anyway tanks
I'd have to get the callipers, although the manual (available free to download on trends website), will have all the specs. they are also available to get as spare parts too though so I honestly wouldn't bother going to the hassle of making them..
I noticed you use both the left and right hand side of the jig, does that mean we would cut it the same as the blind dovetailed joint? with even numbers on the left and odd numbers on the right? also are you cutting A1+B1 at the same time etc etc?
i run up the comb, then back down, biasing to the left hand side of the jig. the gap between the combs is sung to the diameter of the guide bush. The dovetails are cut in pretty much the same way (there is a video on that..) with both Jigs, you cut both components for the same corner at the same time.
Well detailed video mate, including good advice regarding the waste/sacrificial board (3mins into video), in order to protect the jig body, as I learned the hard way and significantly cut into the jig metal body with a dovetail bit. I wish I'd have seen this video first. Thanks for sharing. 👍
Yeah, I've don't it too! As long as the Periphery shape of the template isn't compromised, only surface damage you should still be able to use it. All the trend templates are available as spares though - so they can be replaced, or you can increase the main jigs capacity and potential.
@@BrainFizz Cheers mate. Yes, thankfully it was only on the flat part of the jig surface, not the removable template. I was able to use my Dremel with a small sanding disc to smooth out the blemish, then primer & black spray covered it up. Fortunately it has no impact on the level surface or workings of the jig. I'll just know not to do it again. I think it happened due to the far right template clamp being loose, which resulted in the template dropping on the right side - while I was routing on the left of the CDJ600 jig, unfortunately lowering the router cutter bit onto the jig (under the template). I really appreciate your video & advice.
Excellent walk-through, covering everything about the CDJ300 that anyone is likely to encounter.
Mine spends most of its life hanging on the workshop wall, partly because I find it a depressing faff to set up. Unless I'm making lots of boxes in one go (rare) I find the time taken to get it ready dwarfs the time spent making the rest of the box! Hence I tend to use the (American terminology) 1/4-1/4-1/4 system using the router table. Far faster and easier in my view.
I'll have another go with the jig though now I've seen this.
Thanks for posting. 👍
🇬🇧
thanks Richard had two of those jigs sitting on my workshop floor a while now may just pick one up and try it
many thanks
+Harry Randles TWO??! Lol Nice, you can set one up for the dovetails, get the new combs, and set the other for box joints!
Just saw this. Thanks for the video, any luck on getting a tighter fit?
Are your joints too loose?
Cheers for that mate, might have to look into one of those jigs now.
+Bill Carroll I was looking at making a router table boxjoint jig, but that’s no longer a priority now! If you’re looking to make a few, I’d say it’s a good investment.
Richard Morley, speed/time saver seems to be a handy thing in woodworking. Quick and easy sounds good to me, and it does look like a pretty good solid join.
Hi Brian.Have you seen the Ed Styles box joint jig video ?
Made one myself,its brilliant.
Regards,Peter.
I’ve not, but I’ll take a look.
Regards, Richard.
Great video. Mlcs needs to come out with this.
Yeah I think that may have been mentioned, Audio is always the bane of my videos! LOL!
Great video Richard I am pretty sure my dovetail jig can't do box joints out of the box but I might try and engineer something as they do look way easier than dovetails and just as strong
The Jig I'm using is the trend CDJ300, the combs used are different to those for the lapped dovetails (hence changing them in the video), but yes, they're much simpler and quicker for setup etc than the lapped dovetails are! I think I'm going to be pretty much leaving them set up for box joints now.
Hi Brian . Great vid . ive looked at buying the box joint comb but i cant find it with the red plastic stops and the guide or bitt . do you have to buy them as an extra or did you get them with the comb ?Thanks Pete
Hi Pete, the Red stops are red anodised aluminium, they come with the comb, along with the guide bush for the comb you purchase, so these are all included in the set... you will need to purchase the specific cutter though.
Richard.
thanks
Great vid as always. Is there a way you can make smaller box joints with the jig. For example 6mm joints?
Yes, there is an 8mm-5/16" box joint template available for this jig.... it takes a smaller cutter, and guide bush.
I bought it a couple of weeks ago. I'm going to try it out tomorrw. Thankfully I have plenty of scrap to practice on.
Dong Oregon about scrap! Get stuck in! The more you use it, the more you’ll realise you really can do this! Any questions down the road be sure to let me know and I’ll help as best I can!👍👍
love it, we need to produce 200 boxes with box joints.What jig will you recommend for fast setup and quickest production time. I know there is other machines that might be faster but a jig is only product that will fit in budget..
For a production of. That many boxes a jig is definitely the direction you should be taking. There a many router (and table saw) jugs available for box joints.this one will take side up to 300mm - although there is a version that will do 600mm hope this helps.
Does the sacrificial piece need to be exactly 5mm thicker than the stock or could it be thicker and 5mm extra in the minimum?
5mm Gives you plenty of clearance between the router cutter and the metal jig body.
Great video and explanation (as usual). Would the joints be tighter if you add a strip of tape on one of the red taps?
+Stiff Wood honestly I’m not sure.... it’s definitely worth a try!.
I didn’t actually measure the red pins, to double check how accurately they were sized.
Great video Richard, looks very simple to use for box joint, just a thought about the blowout, could you not use the same side to cut and just swap the front board for the back board?
not really. the way they overlap/are offset, to make the joint fit means that the first pin on the front is unsupported. a better method would be to cut the backer boarder with an 'L' shape to wrap around the sides. Or just take shallow cuts for the first pin.
Hey Richard, tankyou amazing... what is the diameter of the offset pins, the short and the long. Thank you to share. Happy new year.
they're difference depending on the joint size your making.
understand this point, im have the trend with original template and have the plate the other jig to finger joints. My question is to fabricate the pins and test. Anyway tanks
I'd have to get the callipers, although the manual (available free to download on trends website), will have all the specs. they are also available to get as spare parts too though so I honestly wouldn't bother going to the hassle of making them..
Whats in the red sustainer behind you??
George South Yorks
Probably my old Fein Multitool
I noticed you use both the left and right hand side of the jig, does that mean we would cut it the same as the blind dovetailed joint? with even numbers on the left and odd numbers on the right? also are you cutting A1+B1 at the same time etc etc?
i run up the comb, then back down, biasing to the left hand side of the jig. the gap between the combs is sung to the diameter of the guide bush. The dovetails are cut in pretty much the same way (there is a video on that..)
with both Jigs, you cut both components for the same corner at the same time.
Does this come with both of those templates? or will need to buy separately
the jig comes with just the dovetail template, the box joint templates comes as a separate option.
Very educational
Great!! Most of my router videos are meant to be more instructional than enjoyment based, hope it helps you stay a little safer in the shop!