You know, you are getting me in way over my head. You got me through my VANOS two weeks ago and nothing is leaking. Your vids helped on my CCV a few months back. As soon as the parts are here I'm doing the entire cooling system.... and now I'm thinking about suspension work.
one thing that would help too, is to put the bushing in the freezer for a hour, and then use a heat gun to get the bushing mount really hot. We usually do that in aviation to get bushings and bearings installed with ease.
Hey, I want to thank you a million!!!! This DIY was very helpful. I just swapped the rear diff bushing, guibo, and driveshaft CSB on my ZHP and this was a very good DIY to use for the bushing part. I got the same kit as you. The only issue I ran into is that my local hardware store doesnt sell the hardened bolts in the size that I needed and the Milwaukee 1/2 gun kept breaking the standard bolts... So I went through about 6 bolts getting the old bushing removed and 3 bolts installing the new one... So if anyone else is using regular bolts on the bearing kit, it may help to get extra bolts. Thanks again for the tips!!!
Great vid as always from you. Greetings from munich Germany where the E46 was produced. I am proud that you love our BMW cars and make so very good DIY´s. Thank you Sir!
For reals, I cannot thank you enjoy for your awesome AWESOME videos. i have 2 e46's and every time there is an issue, i just refer to one of your videos. One of my e46's is a m3 though. You need to get one and make some m3 related videos ;) Thanks as always!
50s kid.. you always do good DIY videos easy to follow and naturally show probable problems as you go through the process. Very impressive and I thank you very much. Keep doing of your doing because it's helping me and E46 bemmer owners I am sure, who are willing to do the job as well as saving money
Buy the kit made for doing that bushing change, you will be glad you did. To help make the bushing removal easier spray some WD-40 around the old bushing on both sides and when installing spray more WD-40 or other very light lubricant on the inside. I've done to many of these! Great Video and I have watched many of your video all excellent advice always. Thanks So Much. Robert in NW Oregon
Jason, you should probably relabel this video differential subframe bushings replacement DIY. I was looking for a video on the subframe bushings themselves.
good job, replacing this bushing makes a big difference on how the car feels when you drive it especially if you have a standard transmission. My rear was making a knocking noise every time I let up on the clutch it would move and hit the subframe. After I had the bushing replaced all was well.
Hi Jason. Great video! I actually replaced all the subframe bushings on my car with a similar kit (it had much more different sized cups and 5 different leading screws though). What I found helped a lot, was lubricating the screws. A lot less wear and chance of breaking that way...
Well I live in the Netherlands, so I ordered the kit here: www.bol.com/nl/p/vidaxl-afstrijkmes-lagertrekker-210116/9200000025955429/?suggestionType=typedsearch It is some typical chinese brand I believe, and most probably it is sold in many places with different names. It is awesome quality for the price. Hardened steel and bearings on the lead nuts. It contains 22 cups of different sizes and using it was a lot of fun. The bushings came out like butter ;-) (Note: this is the second time I post this reply... the first one disappeared somehow)
When I'm trying to pull something through with a nut/bolt I'll use two washers on the rotating side with anti-sieze between them, kind of like a thrust washer. Cuts down on the shavings/dust and I've found it helps things go a little smoother.
That would have been a good idea at least--anything to help. I just went hog wild there. The shavings were coming off particularly because it was a hardened washer and an unhardened bolt face.
There is a kit on Amazon by BTSHUB for about $62 that looks more appropriate for this job. The threaded rod in the kit is probably weak and should be substituted with a Grade 8 bolt.
I did the similar job on my car last week , found it helped quite a bit to use a bit of wd40 to remove then i cleaned hole with some 400 sandpaper then a smear of grease to help it push back in,i was cringing watching you do it, ha ha
Fine method with an impact gun (although you should try to wear a face shield for the shavings and stuff). I usually use a double ring extended length spanner and a ratcheting equivalent that is just as long.
Hey! Thanks for the video! I’ve gotta replace this exact bushing. How difficult is it to get the rear differential out of the way to replace the bushing? Is the process for that simple?
love your videos and cant wait for the manual swap coding. i have a strong suggestion though, when using threaded tools in this manner, you should always use a mos2 lubricant on the threads. It greatly reduces the effort needed to remove the bushings as well as to reduce the wear on the threaded part of the tool.
You're right, and I agree. However, in this instance, I think it was clear that all of the wear we were seeing in the video was coming from where the bolt face rubbed on the hardened washer, I really should have done this with all hardened hardware.
Yes i absolutely agree with you and great job re purposing a tool to get this job done. I just did the same job using the koch tools for both the front and back diff bushings. that was around $200 just in tools.
Good video as always! Yeah, the head bolt, washer and nut is getting a lot of punishment in these kind of setups - fully normal (and they are inexpensive and often throwaway stuff so no big deal). Nowadays I try to use axial needle bearings (aka needle roller thrust bearings) between the moving surfaces whenever possible, this greatly improve the ease of use of this method! And these bearings are very thin and doesn't really add anything to the overall lenght (but they are somewhat expensive though). You don't think about it, but a large amount of force is used to overcome the friction everytime you/impact gun want to turn that screw. But you can feel it, the fasteners could get quite warm, and all that heat energy is coming from the friction. Just as an interesting reference, whenever you tighten a bolt - up to 90% of the torque you apply is used to overcome friction (about 50% is to overcome the friction underneath the bolt head and about 40% is to overcome the friction in the threads). So only 10% is actually used to create pretension and create the clamping force.
hey that's a great idea man! I wish I had thought of needle roller bearings, duh. I will definitely get some of those for my kit. I think it's important that I put together a couple different forcing screw setups so that I have those for the future.
So not an expert but what would be a symptom for the differential bushing being cracked. As I can hear a clank noise when I reverse but only when I lift off the brake, on a auto e46. I am wondering if it is the diff bushings.
Hey 50's love the videos man, I'm new to working on these sweet cars and my rear differential bushings need to be replaced. What's the fewest amount of steps you can take to expose them and take them out?
Hi Jayson, just want to ask something cause everytime i put on reverse theres a really loud bang like metal to metal noise i really dont know how to pin point the culprit i dont know if the guibo or rear bushing? The very loud noise whenever i put on reverse. Thank you very much.
I have 2 questions. I noticed that you used the head of the bolt to turn the bolt. Would it help addressing the space issue if you flipped the bolt around and turned the nut instead? So that the bolt doesn't get pushed into that bracket? Also, is it better to turn the bolt head or the nut? I am thinking from a twisting torque perspective. One time I used a non-hardened bolt to change a wheel bearing in the same manner as you show here in the video. The end result was that the bolt broke off at the base of the head due to that twisting force. So to me it seems you should turn the nut and not the head.
Great videos always an inspiration - would the replacement have been easier with a poly bush rather than the oem rubber ?What do you think of these as an alternative in general?
I'm mad that you had such an easy time with this. I have to cut the rubber out of mine. Saw a cut into the outside shell of the bushing and then beat it out with a hammer.
what are the symptoms of needing this replacement? my car 325i 2004 automatic jumps when shifting gears. it was suggested to check this bushing. is this a normal thing to happen with my cars symptoms?
hello jason, a thought about installation of the bushing. would it have helped to use a little lithium grease or silicone spray, or are lubricants not applicable here?
Not applicable here because the rubber bushing has a steel shell surrounding it. You're pushing steel into steel and it's a press fit. I mean, it's not going to hurt anything--the excess will just get squeezed out. I probably should have mentioned that you should clean your bore after getting the old one out if you are in a really rusty state. I never have to think about that stuff here in California and I suppose I need to.
Very useful video but you shouldn't use powertools for the first part as if it's misalligned slightly you won't feel the increased difficulty and know to back off. Once the bushing is in a fifth to a quarterly of the way you're safe to switch to powertools.
Great video! Do you or anyone know if the balljoint rental tool from a-zone contains the correct sleeve to press both the rear and the front two bushings?
Two things: 1. You could rent a ball joint press for free from any parts store so you don't have to buy the press. 2. When I saw the title, I thought you would be doing the bushings for the bolts that attach the subframe to the body, rather than the differential. Is this a video that you will be making in the future?
I’m always years out in posting questions! Did you remove the differential? And what’s the difference between poly bushings and the OEM rubber bushings?
There is no way to avoid flexing the rubber during installation using this setup. All of the pieces in this bearing kit are flat and bear on the centrail protruding portion of the busing and invariably flex the rubber until the plate hits the outer ring of the bushing. The only way to avoid this is to use washers or some other ring with a big enough hole that the central portion of the bushing passes through it while the washer bears on the bushing's outer ring and forces it into the subframe mount.
I’ve got the kit but my impact gun won’t fit up under the car. I’ve been trying to do it with a ratchet but it’s just not enough power. Any advice from anyone
Jason, do you know by any chance if that wheel bearing kit that you have is capable of replacing all the bushings from the entire sub-frame? I know they are different sizes and if that kit fits all that would be sweet! Thanks and great video as always man!
Hi I Jason my name is Denzel how do I fixe the reverse on my automatic it goes forward only sometimes on a reverse it is very slow I tried to top up the oil but it's doing the same.
So do you have to take off the differential for the replacement??? Because my bushing is done .. and need to replace please lmk and is it replaceable w the differential on??
Do you anything on the rear cv joints? Im getting this terrible clinking sound come from the back. Haven’t been able to finger point yet...i have lots of play in the half shafts and i just dont know how normal it is
brilliant video, thanks, please can I have the manufacturer reference number (OEN) for this bushing, please, I have an E46 318i petrol year 2000, thank you.
Ahahah, metal flakes all over the screen. Best way to destroy a tool. Sorry but I have to when I see the way you do. Never use impact wrench, apply torque on the nut side of the puller. Bushing in the freezer, heat on the beam, grease on the threads and bearings of the puller; this is how it should be.
I appreciate your videos but why do you drone on about nothing that matters. You spent almost 6 minutes talking about the tool kit, the links and the hardness of the washer. Let them spend what they want if it doesn’t work they will have to buy another one. I see you squeeze a penny so hard it started bleeding. Move on
You know, you are getting me in way over my head. You got me through my VANOS two weeks ago and nothing is leaking. Your vids helped on my CCV a few months back. As soon as the parts are here I'm doing the entire cooling system.... and now I'm thinking about suspension work.
one thing that would help too, is to put the bushing in the freezer for a hour, and then use a heat gun to get the bushing mount really hot. We usually do that in aviation to get bushings and bearings installed with ease.
definitely
aluminium and heat ... not a good combo !! a bit of grease on that bush before insertion would have been good
@@TullahKingKhandon’t use grease cuz u want it to go in but not come out. So use soapy water instead
Hey, I want to thank you a million!!!! This DIY was very helpful. I just swapped the rear diff bushing, guibo, and driveshaft CSB on my ZHP and this was a very good DIY to use for the bushing part. I got the same kit as you. The only issue I ran into is that my local hardware store doesnt sell the hardened bolts in the size that I needed and the Milwaukee 1/2 gun kept breaking the standard bolts... So I went through about 6 bolts getting the old bushing removed and 3 bolts installing the new one... So if anyone else is using regular bolts on the bearing kit, it may help to get extra bolts. Thanks again for the tips!!!
Great vid as always from you. Greetings from munich Germany where the E46 was produced. I am proud that you love our BMW cars and make so very good DIY´s. Thank you Sir!
Every time I think that I'll need to be doing this, a video is made. Great stuff!
My mind reader is working, bawahaha
For reals, I cannot thank you enjoy for your awesome AWESOME videos. i have 2 e46's and every time there is an issue, i just refer to one of your videos. One of my e46's is a m3 though. You need to get one and make some m3 related videos ;)
Thanks as always!
50s kid.. you always do good DIY videos easy to follow and naturally show probable problems as you go through the process. Very impressive and I thank you very much. Keep doing of your doing because it's helping me and E46 bemmer owners I am sure, who are willing to do the job as well as saving money
Love the videos! Just want to point out to you that the title says “subframe bushings “ although the thumbnail says Diff bushing.
Buy the kit made for doing that bushing change, you will be glad you did. To help make the bushing removal easier spray some WD-40 around the old bushing on both sides and when installing spray more WD-40 or other very light lubricant on the inside. I've done to many of these! Great Video and I have watched many of your video all excellent advice always. Thanks So Much. Robert in NW Oregon
Jason, you should probably relabel this video differential subframe bushings replacement DIY. I was looking for a video on the subframe bushings themselves.
good job, replacing this bushing makes a big difference on how the car feels when you drive it especially if you have a standard transmission. My rear was making a knocking noise every time I let up on the clutch it would move and hit the subframe. After I had the bushing replaced all was well.
Awesome!
Nick how much did you pay for the job or did you diy?
shop charged me about $350 i brought them the bushings
They replaced all in subframe or just the one where the differential mounts?
I have a 2000 318i and it is doing the same place, this guy is a life saver for the videos.
I read the service manual then your vids give me the confidence to do the jobs. thank you so much.
Hi Jason. Great video! I actually replaced all the subframe bushings on my car with a similar kit (it had much more different sized cups and 5 different leading screws though). What I found helped a lot, was lubricating the screws. A lot less wear and chance of breaking that way...
Yep good tips. Where did you get the kit?
Well I live in the Netherlands, so I ordered the kit here:
www.bol.com/nl/p/vidaxl-afstrijkmes-lagertrekker-210116/9200000025955429/?suggestionType=typedsearch
It is some typical chinese brand I believe, and most probably it is sold in many places with different names. It is awesome quality for the price. Hardened steel and bearings on the lead nuts. It contains 22 cups of different sizes and using it was a lot of fun. The bushings came out like butter ;-)
(Note: this is the second time I post this reply... the first one disappeared somehow)
Very cool man, thanks for letting me know!
Found on ebay www.ebay.com/itm/27pc-Universal-Press-Pull-Sleeve-Kit-Bush-Bearing-Removal-Insertion-Tool-Set-/252424169860
When I'm trying to pull something through with a nut/bolt I'll use two washers on the rotating side with anti-sieze between them, kind of like a thrust washer. Cuts down on the shavings/dust and I've found it helps things go a little smoother.
That would have been a good idea at least--anything to help. I just went hog wild there. The shavings were coming off particularly because it was a hardened washer and an unhardened bolt face.
There is a kit on Amazon by BTSHUB for about $62 that looks more appropriate for this job. The threaded rod in the kit is probably weak and should be substituted with a Grade 8 bolt.
I did the similar job on my car last week , found it helped quite a bit to use a bit of wd40 to remove then i cleaned hole with some 400 sandpaper then a smear of grease to help it push back in,i was cringing watching you do it, ha ha
Fine method with an impact gun (although you should try to wear a face shield for the shavings and stuff).
I usually use a double ring extended length spanner and a ratcheting equivalent that is just as long.
Yes I really should!
Whenever I use a forcing screw I always lube the threads, anti-seize, grease or oil.
Hey! Thanks for the video! I’ve gotta replace this exact bushing. How difficult is it to get the rear differential out of the way to replace the bushing? Is the process for that simple?
love your videos and cant wait for the manual swap coding. i have a strong suggestion though, when using threaded tools in this manner, you should always use a mos2 lubricant on the threads. It greatly reduces the effort needed to remove the bushings as well as to reduce the wear on the threaded part of the tool.
You're right, and I agree. However, in this instance, I think it was clear that all of the wear we were seeing in the video was coming from where the bolt face rubbed on the hardened washer, I really should have done this with all hardened hardware.
Yes i absolutely agree with you and great job re purposing a tool to get this job done. I just did the same job using the koch tools for both the front and back diff bushings. that was around $200 just in tools.
Good video as always! Yeah, the head bolt, washer and nut is getting a lot of punishment in these kind of setups - fully normal (and they are inexpensive and often throwaway stuff so no big deal).
Nowadays I try to use axial needle bearings (aka needle roller thrust bearings) between the moving surfaces whenever possible, this greatly improve the ease of use of this method! And these bearings are very thin and doesn't really add anything to the overall lenght (but they are somewhat expensive though).
You don't think about it, but a large amount of force is used to overcome the friction everytime you/impact gun want to turn that screw. But you can feel it, the fasteners could get quite warm, and all that heat energy is coming from the friction.
Just as an interesting reference, whenever you tighten a bolt - up to 90% of the torque you apply is used to overcome friction (about 50% is to overcome the friction underneath the bolt head and about 40% is to overcome the friction in the threads). So only 10% is actually used to create pretension and create the clamping force.
hey that's a great idea man! I wish I had thought of needle roller bearings, duh. I will definitely get some of those for my kit. I think it's important that I put together a couple different forcing screw setups so that I have those for the future.
So not an expert but what would be a symptom for the differential bushing being cracked. As I can hear a clank noise when I reverse but only when I lift off the brake, on a auto e46. I am wondering if it is the diff bushings.
Is it necessary to take the differential off to change this part?
Did you see the after market . They are neoprene without that outside metal jacket on it so you just push them in by hand
You should say you better damn well make sure that bushing will fit in that one press sleeve and the other one does not get stuck in that flange
Hey 50's love the videos man, I'm new to working on these sweet cars and my rear differential bushings need to be replaced. What's the fewest amount of steps you can take to expose them and take them out?
Hi Jayson, just want to ask something cause everytime i put on reverse theres a really loud bang like metal to metal noise i really dont know how to pin point the culprit i dont know if the guibo or rear bushing? The very loud noise whenever i put on reverse. Thank you very much.
Would there be any harm in a little lubrication prior to pressing the bushing back in?
Just ordered the astro kit, thanks.
Nice, I should be takling to ol' Astro Psnematic about getting some free tools sent over... note to self
Will the forcing screw in Astro kit fit the bushing?
I have 2 questions. I noticed that you used the head of the bolt to turn the bolt. Would it help addressing the space issue if you flipped the bolt around and turned the nut instead? So that the bolt doesn't get pushed into that bracket? Also, is it better to turn the bolt head or the nut? I am thinking from a twisting torque perspective. One time I used a non-hardened bolt to change a wheel bearing in the same manner as you show here in the video. The end result was that the bolt broke off at the base of the head due to that twisting force. So to me it seems you should turn the nut and not the head.
That's a very good question. Has anybody tried screwing the nut instead of the bolt's head?
Can you leave the wheels on the ground when doing this and just jack up the body?
if you got the time to wait before you have to do the project. you can order a hardened bolt from mcmaster carr.
Amazing how you have no rust in the arid southwest. This job would be a NIGHTMARE in the rust belt where I live......
All you need was to add more spacer with your original bolt
Great videos always an inspiration - would the replacement have been easier with a poly bush rather than the oem rubber ?What do you think of these as an alternative in general?
OEM is better causse these adtermarket bushing become rockhard
do you need to remove the rear differential as well as the sway bar to replace this bushing?
clearly yes
I'm mad that you had such an easy time with this. I have to cut the rubber out of mine. Saw a cut into the outside shell of the bushing and then beat it out with a hammer.
lol full gorilla method huh? How'd you get the new one in without damaging it?
what are the symptoms of needing this replacement? my car 325i 2004 automatic jumps when shifting gears. it was suggested to check this bushing. is this a normal thing to happen with my cars symptoms?
AWESOMEEEEE!!!! noooow... only if the tools would fit on the M3 without removing the subframe :(
no need to remove the subframe, remove the back diff cover. then you'll have enough space. it worked for me.
Did you replace the front differential bushings as well?
Only what you saw
50sKid is there a way to do this without dropping the diff?
hello jason, a thought about installation of the bushing.
would it have helped to use a little lithium grease or silicone spray, or are lubricants not applicable here?
I used dish soap when I did my FCABs since its rubber safe
Not applicable here because the rubber bushing has a steel shell surrounding it. You're pushing steel into steel and it's a press fit. I mean, it's not going to hurt anything--the excess will just get squeezed out. I probably should have mentioned that you should clean your bore after getting the old one out if you are in a really rusty state. I never have to think about that stuff here in California and I suppose I need to.
andrei put 9
Very useful video but you shouldn't use powertools for the first part as if it's misalligned slightly you won't feel the increased difficulty and know to back off. Once the bushing is in a fifth to a quarterly of the way you're safe to switch to powertools.
If you just keep going it lines itself up
Great video! Do you or anyone know if the balljoint rental tool from a-zone contains the correct sleeve to press both the rear and the front two bushings?
Did you remove the wheels and the diff before you did this?
Thanks for sharing this with us. Yo should have a new car by now you have replaced almost everything on your car lol.
Two things:
1. You could rent a ball joint press for free from any parts store so you don't have to buy the press.
2. When I saw the title, I thought you would be doing the bushings for the bolts that attach the subframe to the body, rather than the differential. Is this a video that you will be making in the future?
A friend has a car that needs its subframe mounts repaired (torn out)--I'll eventually get to that car and make that video.
50sKid I'd like to see this one as well well. Thanks for everything!
DEADF15H
Will a ball joint rental tool also work on the two other smaller bushings for the diff?
Is this whats causing my car to vibrate while driving, note that mechanic already replaced cardan shaft as well as a cross
I’m always years out in posting questions! Did you remove the differential? And what’s the difference between poly bushings and the OEM rubber bushings?
There is no way to avoid flexing the rubber during installation using this setup. All of the pieces in this bearing kit are flat and bear on the centrail protruding portion of the busing and invariably flex the rubber until the plate hits the outer ring of the bushing. The only way to avoid this is to use washers or some other ring with a big enough hole that the central portion of the bushing passes through it while the washer bears on the bushing's outer ring and forces it into the subframe mount.
Hello! Just got my E46! Can I do this without dropping the subframe?
Ive been meaning to do this on my 04 x3 thanks man
Part number for bushing?
I’ve got the kit but my impact gun won’t fit up under the car. I’ve been trying to do it with a ratchet but it’s just not enough power. Any advice from anyone
Hey would you happen to know if this same bearing kit would work with the removal and install of the rest of the bushings in the rear end of an e46?
Is there a convenient solution to the grade 8 or grade 5 bolt used? Im having a hard time sourcing one
Would replacing this get rid of that clunking sound when i shift or is it my whole subframe
from what I know, the shift clunk is a super common problems, mainly caused by the diff bushing.
Great video. When the wrench was having difficulty reaching the nut, I think a crow’s foot would do the trick.
Jason, do you know by any chance if that wheel bearing kit that you have is capable of replacing all the bushings from the entire sub-frame? I know they are different sizes and if that kit fits all that would be sweet! Thanks and great video as always man!
I didn't hold the cups up to the diff, I'm afraid, but it probably can.
How many bushings in the subframe & the differential appreciate the info
Hi I Jason my name is Denzel how do I fixe the reverse on my automatic it goes forward only sometimes on a reverse it is very slow I tried to top up the oil but it's doing the same.
Sorry it's a E46 BMW 330ci
So do you have to take off the differential for the replacement??? Because my bushing is done .. and need to replace please lmk and is it replaceable w the differential on??
No you have to remove it.
Great job! Can this kit be used for the RTABs?
I actually don't know--I will have to pull one down and check it out.
Please I would also like to know if this tool works on RTABS. Thanks!
also interested to know if this kit will work with RTAB. or the Astro kit you listed
Do you think this kit will work for the front differential bushings as well?
Great job. Very helpful video. Do you think that Astro kit will work better? I decided to buy one just now.
Did you use the Astro kit? I’m wondering if the forcing screw is too big for that diff. bushing.
@@jrswartzbaugh I am almost positive I got a similar kit like this one but not the exact. It will work you just have to finesse the parts together
@@NoCompM2 Got the kit. I had to go get a smaller screw from hardware store for that particular bushing.
Beautiful! Thank you!
What all do you have to take out to get to the bushing
Is this a diff Bush replacement? I'm confused
I assume this should be done while your car is on jack stands, but I did want to confirm. Is this true?
Yes. For safety
U could push teh bearing from the other side.
I am doing a subframe refresh to include this bushing. do you recommend the Astro kit and do I need to buy anything else for it?
I recommend the astro kit and everything else you saw me use.
What's the purpose for replace this?
Could this same kit be used for replacement of rear control arm bushings and ball joints?
I can't say for sure that it will do all the bushings as I haven't checked the sizes on those
Ha Ha Eric O special tool! that was funny........I got one too!
Great video!
Which model impact gun are you using here?
so theres only 1 bush not 2?
How to reset bmw 530d E60 2005 model ELV
How long does it take to fix it
Was it making any noise or was you just doing it to do it
Do you anything on the rear cv joints? Im getting this terrible clinking sound come from the back. Haven’t been able to finger point yet...i have lots of play in the half shafts and i just dont know how normal it is
where can i find that tool?
Good job that's easy thank you
brilliant video, thanks, please can I have the manufacturer reference number (OEN) for this bushing, please, I have an E46 318i petrol year 2000, thank you.
Google "real OEM" or "bmw etk". These websites allow you to find the OEN part number by inserting your VIN
Can this tool the cheaper one work to remove the actual subframe bushings
I think im safe from failure if i buy one of those milwaukee impact guns.
Can this bushing be replaced by only removing the differential cover?
You're not gonna be able to remove the cover, I think. Those top bolts are really up there.
50sKid aaaaaaa! Thank you so much for your time and great help with your videos.
I love you! thank you so much!
Anybody else come here for "SUBFRAME" bushings and found Diff bushings??? Great video but somewhat misleading title.
+Michael Lawrence the video does say differential bushings 😂
Which is exactly my point, it is labelled and titled "BMW E46 Subframe Bushing Replacement", so why put the wrong title on a diff bushing video?
Michael Lawrence 😂😂 ok I’m just noticing now. I didn’t mean to mislead you bro. I’ll correct the title
What size nut and bolt hold that bushing?
22mm
Don't forget to remove the DIFFERENTIAL first, haha!
Hey what about the link to buy the wheel bearing kit???
it's right there in the description
Mine is flush on the other side. Anyone else?
You could have used a wire brush on a drill first.
Part number? Thank you.
the oem bushings arnt the best you should of used the polyurethane bushes
or not
@@lawpenner or yes
wow, thanks aloooooot!!!!
Does this solve the diff 'clunk' under load?
Yes, unless your subframe is torn out.
Ahahah, metal flakes all over the screen. Best way to destroy a tool. Sorry but I have to when I see the way you do. Never use impact wrench, apply torque on the nut side of the puller. Bushing in the freezer, heat on the beam, grease on the threads and bearings of the puller; this is how it should be.
I appreciate your videos but why do you drone on about nothing that matters. You spent almost 6 minutes talking about the tool kit, the links and the hardness of the washer. Let them spend what they want if it doesn’t work they will have to buy another one. I see you squeeze a penny so hard it started bleeding. Move on
love all your video. BUT Next Time Put Some LUBE On The Bushing. And The IN THE HOLE! . DAM!!! . GREASE IT UP BRO!
According to the BMW Service Manual:
"Caution!
Observe installation position of rubber mount.
Rubber mount and bearing bush free of grease!"
USE A SOCKET
put it in freezerr first make metal srink