Very good tutorial! I envy you for working in 1/200 scale on a passenger ship. It's torture, trying to get the right bends in on a WW I 1/700 scale battleship (the casemate angles!!!).
I’m old enough to remember when it was impossible to get more than a couple grams of CA glue at a time - those stupid little tubes that were essentially “one use” because they always dried up before you could use a second application. Great tips!
This is true! I just don’t because I’m lazy. If I need to spray it, I have SMS Metal primer that’s ready to spray out of the bottle. But I do prefer Mr. Metal primer. I think it works better, faster.
I use the same glue, Bob Smith brand, they just put whomever model shop name on it. Never considered the tape method, will have to try that. I just always tacked it down like a welder would do with the sewing needle applicator, which I think I learned back on your Missouri build. Thanks for the new tip!
Thanks. I had a heck of a time putting the railings on the Ranger ship kit I built last year, and that was in 1/350 scale. I've been looking at the 1/200 Bismarck, as at $300, that's cheap for a kit of that scale. Even though I don't have room to build it, or the two 1/32 scale model planes I have.
I am really surprised you aren’t bending the railings before you put them on the ship. What I personally did for this model, is measure everything out, bend everything into shape, line the bottom with cement, and with the railings already in the shape, simply lower them and they will stay put and dry. Also, I’m surprised you color them when they are on the Spruce and not after. Whenever I used to do this, you would have spots that were left unpainted and when you go to touch them up, it could damage it. I would always remove them, spray them, let them dry, turn them over, spray them. Just some things that I did differently. Excellent work and eager to see your completed model.
You make it look too easy Ben. Great tip Thanks. Have a question, if you a run with two next to radius.each other, would bend them first. Guess it will work on a 1/350 kit.
Hello Ben, nice tutorial. Question, i am building the Bismarck 1/350 and thinking off getting my first Photo etch. Now i allready gleued the wooden deck on the rear bridge and i want to put the pe railings on, but the wooden deck is on top of the plastic, so no space for the railing at all. Can i glue the pe railings on the wooden deck, or do i have to gently cut some wooden deck away and glue it on the plastic, if that is possible?
Great question. You can glue the railing to the wooden deck. The wood will absorb some of the CA glue and it will set up hard just like the plastic already is. It will work out just fine.
I'm doing the Trumpeteer DKM-H german battleship 1/350 scale.. This is my first attempt at this elaborate photo etched parts... I have everything I think I need to do it.. My question is do you just dab the ca glue in spots or do you lay a stream of it down along the joining surface? Also, I have metal primer and plastic/metal primer. (tamiya brand). Do I use both like you did or can I just get by with using the metal primer? Thanks for your very informative videos.. I'm also going to be looking at doing rigging for the first time so if you have a tutorial on that, if you could include the link in any reply I would be appreciative..
I apply the CA glue both ways. Use whatever method works best for the situation. Dabbing is good to get your parts into position. Then you can add more glue if necessary. You can get away with simply cleaning your parts and then applying metal primer or Tamiya primer. I use just one all of the time. If the part is going to be “handled” a lot or exposed to the elements… using both primers is best in the long run.
hi i do very much like your work you make it look easy BUT, just started using photo edge bought 1/200 uss arizona and bismarck then reality set in so starting with ussr sovremenny has fewer photo etch but with my arthritic hands its hard but achievable I haven't yet found a vid that shows how to degrease and prepare PE and which product prior to gluing I cant seem to get it right, if you could point me in the right direction that be great, thanks for all your vids.
Hey Mike, I don’t have an exact video to send you to, other than maybe one of my Arizona builds. But all you have to do is wash the PE down with rubbing alcohol. Then prime. If you want to really get it right, you wash with rubbing alcohol, then use a metal primer. Then a regular paint primer and then your final color of paint.
Ben, I have a question for you. I have a Academy 1/700 Titanic that I am in the process of building and having watched your video on the funnels, decided to re do the ones on my model. Here are the two-color options I have: MM Acryl 4720 Sand and MM 4711 Armor Sand. Which one is the closest to the color you have did yours in? Thanks.
Loving this series! (Titanic enthusiast) I'm starting a new 1:350 Minicraft build and I'm wondering if you guys know of any detail resources for this scale? I know of Tom's model works and a few 3D printed items such as funnels, crane tops, and the forward hatch. I am however finding it difficult to find anything else. If you know of anything I'd appreciate the feedback. Keep up the great work!
There’s 2 sets of either 50 or 200 I can’t remember passengers on some hobby shop sites, one with cpt smith and the other with jack and rose. Though as I’ve typed this I see this was a year ago lol, hope it went well
Hey Ben nice video on the railing you always make it look easy lol and titanic is looking great and coming along nicely still watching just not commenting as much as I should k.u.t.g.w.
@@TheMidwestModelShop I'm working on the Tamiya Missouri. Just a few handrails 😆. I'm also fairly new to this complexity. My eyes were a bit bigger than my talent. You're video helped a bunch tho.
Good tip using the tape, this is where watching another video gives you ideas how to make adding etch far easier and more accurately. Cheers.
Very good tutorial! I envy you for working in 1/200 scale on a passenger ship. It's torture, trying to get the right bends in on a WW I 1/700 scale battleship (the casemate angles!!!).
Thanks for the tape tip Ben. All those years of fumbling with tiny bits finally solved. 👍
The smallest details are what take the time, and make the model complete. Thanks for the tips.
Thanks very much for the feedback, just what I wanted to read, very much appreciated.
Quite enjoyable! Well done!
Thank you for those tips. The drill bit on the photoetch tool is genius!!!
I’m old enough to remember when it was impossible to get more than a couple grams of CA glue at a time - those stupid little tubes that were essentially “one use” because they always dried up before you could use a second application. Great tips!
Great video! If anyone is interested, the Mr Metal primer can be airbrushed. Thin it down 1:1 with Mr leveling thinner and apply in light layers.
This is true! I just don’t because I’m lazy. If I need to spray it, I have SMS Metal primer that’s ready to spray out of the bottle. But I do prefer Mr. Metal primer. I think it works better, faster.
@@TheMidwestModelShop O nice I'll have to try the SMS stuff. Sometimes its nice to use ready made products. Love your videos, keep up the good work!
Excellent advice, will give that a go on mine when I get around to it. 🙂
I use the same glue, Bob Smith brand, they just put whomever model shop name on it. Never considered the tape method, will have to try that. I just always tacked it down like a welder would do with the sewing needle applicator, which I think I learned back on your Missouri build. Thanks for the new tip!
Greatly appreciated. 63yo beginner
Great tip i always have trouble installing etch railings
That was really great. I’ve only done railings on 1/700 scale ships and struggled. Looking forward to trying that technique on the 1/200 Arizona.
Thanks, Ben, for the great advice.
Great railing tip Ben, many thanks.i use grease proof paper for my super glue, I find it stays fresh for longer .
Excellent Content!
As always, fantastic program. Very informative. Thanks for your time and efforts
Thanks. I had a heck of a time putting the railings on the Ranger ship kit I built last year, and that was in 1/350 scale. I've been looking at the 1/200 Bismarck, as at $300, that's cheap for a kit of that scale. Even though I don't have room to build it, or the two 1/32 scale model planes I have.
thank you for sharing this. i will try this on the next ship i work on
Very helpful. Thanks
Excellent method...I'll be using that :)
Great video!
Great job.
Ben, thanks for sharing this tip
Great tips like always, can’t wait to see the end result. Happy 4th of July
great tip. will be using the idea!
I am really surprised you aren’t bending the railings before you put them on the ship. What I personally did for this model, is measure everything out, bend everything into shape, line the bottom with cement, and with the railings already in the shape, simply lower them and they will stay put and dry. Also, I’m surprised you color them when they are on the Spruce and not after. Whenever I used to do this, you would have spots that were left unpainted and when you go to touch them up, it could damage it. I would always remove them, spray them, let them dry, turn them over, spray them.
Just some things that I did differently.
Excellent work and eager to see your completed model.
Nice one
Great tips!
Hi, thanks for the tip of using masking tape. It's gonna help a lot with my Bismarck Revell 1:350.🤝🤝🤝🤝💯💯💯😁😁😁😁
Well done filming that, never mind installing it.😁👍
You make it look too easy Ben. Great tip Thanks. Have a question, if you a run with two next to radius.each other, would bend them first. Guess it will work on a 1/350 kit.
Yeah this should work with any scale.
4:50 what's the name of that grip thing?
It’s Photo Etch bender.
Hello Ben, nice tutorial. Question, i am building the Bismarck 1/350 and thinking off getting my first Photo etch. Now i allready gleued the wooden deck on the rear bridge and i want to put the pe railings on, but the wooden deck is on top of the plastic, so no space for the railing at all. Can i glue the pe railings on the wooden deck, or do i have to gently cut some wooden deck away and glue it on the plastic, if that is possible?
Great question. You can glue the railing to the wooden deck. The wood will absorb some of the CA glue and it will set up hard just like the plastic already is. It will work out just fine.
@@TheMidwestModelShop thanks
I'm doing the Trumpeteer DKM-H german battleship 1/350 scale.. This is my first attempt at this elaborate photo etched parts... I have everything I think I need to do it.. My question is do you just dab the ca glue in spots or do you lay a stream of it down along the joining surface? Also, I have metal primer and plastic/metal primer. (tamiya brand). Do I use both like you did or can I just get by with using the metal primer? Thanks for your very informative videos.. I'm also going to be looking at doing rigging for the first time so if you have a tutorial on that, if you could include the link in any reply I would be appreciative..
I apply the CA glue both ways. Use whatever method works best for the situation. Dabbing is good to get your parts into position. Then you can add more glue if necessary. You can get away with simply cleaning your parts and then applying metal primer or Tamiya primer. I use just one all of the time. If the part is going to be “handled” a lot or exposed to the elements… using both primers is best in the long run.
@@TheMidwestModelShop thank you for the info.. I'm looking forward to attempting this.. I feel more confident with your info.. Thanks again.
hi i do very much like your work you make it look easy BUT, just started using photo edge bought 1/200 uss arizona and bismarck then reality set in so starting with ussr sovremenny has fewer photo etch but with my arthritic hands its hard but achievable I haven't yet found a vid that shows how to degrease and prepare PE and which product prior to gluing I cant seem to get it right, if you could point me in the right direction that be great, thanks for all your vids.
Hey Mike, I don’t have an exact video to send you to, other than maybe one of my Arizona builds. But all you have to do is wash the PE down with rubbing alcohol. Then prime. If you want to really get it right, you wash with rubbing alcohol, then use a metal primer. Then a regular paint primer and then your final color of paint.
Ben, I have a question for you. I have a Academy 1/700 Titanic that I am in the process of building and having watched your video on the funnels, decided to re do the ones on my model. Here are the two-color options I have: MM Acryl 4720 Sand and MM 4711 Armor Sand. Which one is the closest to the color you have did yours in? Thanks.
Of those two colors, the 4720 appears to be closest!
@@TheMidwestModelShop Thanks Ben. Hope you all have a safe weekend.
Awesome awesome awesome, another great helpful episode, CheersJason, Ohh sent you an email re merch paid in full
Loving this series! (Titanic enthusiast) I'm starting a new 1:350 Minicraft build and I'm wondering if you guys know of any detail resources for this scale? I know of Tom's model works and a few 3D printed items such as funnels, crane tops, and the forward hatch. I am however finding it difficult to find anything else. If you know of anything I'd appreciate the feedback. Keep up the great work!
There’s 2 sets of either 50 or 200 I can’t remember passengers on some hobby shop sites, one with cpt smith and the other with jack and rose. Though as I’ve typed this I see this was a year ago lol, hope it went well
You can spray Matt to hide the CA
Did not see building being made. What about the back railing?
Isn’t this part of the TITANIC ??
Yes
Hey Ben nice video on the railing you always make it look easy lol and titanic is looking great and coming along nicely still watching just not commenting as much as I should k.u.t.g.w.
In the real life version and before editing there is a lot more cussing. 😂
I mean this one was pretty easy. But I’ve definitely been there 😉
@@TheMidwestModelShop I'm working on the Tamiya Missouri. Just a few handrails 😆. I'm also fairly new to this complexity. My eyes were a bit bigger than my talent. You're video helped a bunch tho.
Advise to beginners. Get the best quality CA possible. Don't use the cheap CA.
【p】【r】【o】【m】【o】【s】【m】 🌟