I simply CANNOT BELIEVE MY EYES. I AM BLOWN💨 AWAY by Chuck’s work on those 3D printed MASTERPIECES. ❤️ And the Waldo + Borat?? The man is a GENiUS…Unreal. Sensational execution on the whole lot. And the packaging ??? WoW‼️Just WoW‼️Damn-near brought a tear to my eye. ❤️😪
Hello Ben & Nora, awesome gifts of figures you guys received & that retro safe is priceless, stuffed with goodies especially the Renault & those figures of Waldo & you on the couch, doing your Burt Reynolds impersonation wz hilarious. Also wanted to thank Ben for the shout out, yes it was me who suggested running the optics thru the well deck instead of around & behind much easier & no light bleed. It was good you remembered my name Ben, but must say its (Volta) not Vol-tar no emphasis on the R because there isn't one 😆...Lmao! Don't worry bout it, I still love you...lol great job you 2 and Nora I love your laugh even if Ben doesn't...lol 😜👍👍
Thanks Darren! I just finished a major training even in Colorado that I’ve been at for the last 2 months. I plan on getting back into the shop this week!
Loving all the hand painted figures, like your concept for lighting this beautiful ship. Interested in seeing if the leds are going to be enough to light the entire ship. Great video, looking forward to your next video.
Sweet! Glad you liked the stuff! Agreed - Borat IS a doofus. Some would say he's "THE KING OF THE DOOFUSES 🙌". . . Lovin' all the other figures. Talented bunch of folks and amazing paint work. Nice work on the fiber optics. Looks great! ~Chuck
Let there be light!!!!! Nice game planing bud!! I am sure Nora is the cruise director for the display when it is finished if not the whole project! Looking great my friend!!
Oh wow that looks a little tedious I’ve been working on drilling the holes in the giant hull piece and I successfully drilled all of the port side portholes (except for when I had to go to the hardware store because my drill bit broke and had to wait for hours because drill kept dying) I’ve been watching ThatModelBoatGuy make his RC titanic and he’s been quite an inspiration for me to make my static titanic model. I’ve only just saw and clicked on this video and watched a small bit but I might check this project out a little more when I finish writing this. Looks awesome so far!
Great video. LOVE the new figures, especially the dogs! The safe is priceless, I like the job you are doing with the LED strips lights. Makes me think that's the idea for a town I'm working on for my model railroad. Eventually it will have a Hard Rock cafe, all lit up. Hmmmmmmmmmm..... Great job!
Suggestion: As for blocking some of the light from the portholes that are now all illuminated, maybe just dab some black paint or a bit of putty on the inside ends of the optics might do the trick, that way it won't let light pass thru the optics, but will still carry the glimmer of glass in the portholes, as you pass and view the exterior of the ship once completed. 😜👍 Update: just thought of this maybe even some of that flex seal would work too.👍
Good Job. 👍 I like the color of the lights and the fiber optic is cool-beans to keep out light bleed in the well decks. A thought (I only have one a month so don't worry too much) could you tint some of the port holes to indicate subtle light variations and/or lights (i.e. sconces vs ceiling vs table lamps) in use in the cabins? Feel free to stop laughing at any point and have a great modeling day or night. 😎
I think this is a great idea. you could simulate a cabin that was not occupied but had their door open and the light from the hallway shining in Or maybe the curtains closed. Say maybe 25% brightness?
So I’m going to start by trying to tint or block the inside end of the fiber optic to see what kind of results we get. But same idea as mentioned above.
I'll be starting my 1/350 Ranger soon. Instead of attempting the "dazzle" paint scheme, I'll do a simple Sea Blue hull and Light Ghost Gray decks. But I'm still trying to find out whether the flight deck was left natural, painted the same shade of gray, painted Wood Deck Tan, or another shade of blue.
The lighting is going to look fantastic, especially once we get up into the superstructure of the ship. It's a lot of work but so worth it. 👍 The detail on the figures is unbelievable and even the packaging is outstanding. It's almost a shame to use them; the safe will make a great display item. Well done to everyone who has supplied figures; it's going to bring the ship to life at the end of the build. Something I wondered about: is there anything that could add a wee bit of movement/animation to the ship? It would be extra work but, with the level of detail you're including, it might be worth it. I'm not too sure what you could add as a "moving feature" but there must be something. It wouldn't need to be anything large. Just a thought.👍👌😁 Cheers for now, Dougie.
Hello! Great job. It seems to me that the windows in the white part of the bow and stern are very small in diameter. In real photos of the Titanic, they look much larger. With respect
I agree. But I don’t know what size to drill them out too so I’m sticking with what the kit has. I think most folks are building this out of the box and maybe adding some extra items here and there. So that’s what I’m trying to do as well. I want to try and portray all the options as best as I can.
you can partially paint over some of the LED or use tape to darken dim lights, then fog out half moon quarter moon sections of the port windows to make it appear the light is coming from one side of the room or the other and various intensities, color paint LEDs to make different shades of light or the appearance of a red lamp or shade cover in the cabin.. all in the details
Hi ben I'm putting the LED lights in the Titanic model 1/200 but I've used 12v with 5v LEDs will they all still work I've not put the other 2 decks on yet
maby put a thin coat of transparent yellow or something on some of the fiber optics so there is a color difference between some of the portholes, i say yellow as it would look more like candle light , but maby a hint of orange could work aswell
@@hegiteri i know. but i assume some of the first class passengers brought some candles for a more homely feeling, but still having slight color differences between some of the portholes will make it less monolithic
lol . . . I tried . . . I tried . . . Modeled a hand in the window but it was too small to make out. Then tried reverse printing a hand on the window pane itself. Washed out when it was back painted. 😫
@@jamesjustice4515 rinse and repeat James, obviously you haven't been watching, try again only listen this time, : ) If you meant Burt, here's a glue for yah "Smokey & the Bandit" 😎✌
@@jackvolta3489 I dont know who u r. I'm 50 years old and u dont talk to me like a child. I dont care who ben is. The fact is the lady in that movie should have more respect for herself to do what she done. In god word, her man should have been the only one to see her that way. That goes for man or woman. The movie should have been decent for a whole family to watch. It wasn't just about romance story, but it was part of a history event of the past. Even for young people to watch. Lot of lady's at that time was more god fearing and more self respect
Very informative! From an LED standpoint, my biggest problem is stripping 0603 SMD LEDs. I've been more or less, using my fingernail to cut-pull off the rubber housing because I can't find a wire stripper tiny enough to do the job. The problem with that is sometimes I mess up the fine wires, sometimes even breaking them. I was wondering what your method is, or suggestion?
Take your soldering iron and just melt the wires together without stripping them. The heat will melt the insulation and the solder will do it’s job giving you your bond. See how that works for you!
Yes you might have already mentioned this before but can you please give me some information about the navigation lights I'm working on the 1:400 scale Titanic model ship and the only thing that I still need is the navigation lights because one of these days I'm going to start saving my money for the trumpeter Titanic model ship and the navigation lights is putting me on hold for finishing it up
This trumpeter Titanic model is not cheap almost 500 dollars 😳 ugh it's going to be a while before I can get it but I love how fully detailed this model is
Who made the figures? Is there a contact? I have a request for specific figures i need for my 1/200 (lots of crew and passengers in life jackets, and not to mention ismay in his dressing gown!)
I have a question: is Tamiya's hull red paint supposed to be an extra dark shade of red? Mine is almost brown. I ended up getting a generic shade of red (also from Tamiya).
Color, color, who know what the actual colors were? I don't think anyone knows for sure. But here are a few references to review. First this is a wonderful series of short papers done by a gentleman named Bob Read. To find them do a web search on "Bob Read Titanic." Most you will likely not care about, unless you want to know how the ash ejectors worked. But there are some on the colors. Bob Read states that the antifouling paint was more like a pink. Humm, like you I always thought of it as a red or red/brown. But in one of James Cameron's TV specials he says that on his first dive to the wreck he came up on the side of the forward section. He stated that all he saw was a pink wall and wished that the entire ship had been painted in the antifouling paint. Some people also point to the picture of the one visible propeller and point out the paint there. Not sure I can see the pink, but maybe you can. If you can find web pictures of Cameron's studio model, bottom does look like a heavily weathered pink. Top side colors, I think Bob Read's papers are pretty reasonable. I state this because the White Star Lines built two small ships at Harland and Wolff before the merger with Cunard Lines. Ships were Britannic (not the third vessel of the Olympic class) and Georgic. Web searches will turn up some color pictures. I'm not sure if these are colorized or not, but they do seem to match up pretty well with Bob Read's papers. A third reference is the ferry SS Nomadic also built by Harland and Wolff. It was the vessel that shuttled the passengers to Titanic at Cherbourg. Nomadic has been restored and color pictures are available of this vessel too. All this and I will not even discuss how many blades were on the center propeller! Bottom line, do what looks right to you!
THAT rudder is from Shapeways. It is supposed to be "correct" when compared to the kit rudder. When looking at drawings from my reference book it appears to be "correct". But is it ? Are any of them? No idea.
@@TheMidwestModelShop if that rudder is correct no wonder they couldn't steer away from disaster . It would be the equivalent of steering a canoe with your hand.
Yes. I spray them with a clear flat. This will help stabilize the wood and IF you spill something on it, there’s a chance you can clean it up without messing up the printed lines.
So I’m super happy with the brightness I have now. However, I may change my mind about that if I have to mount any more near the windows on the main deck. There are ways to diffuse them if I need to, but that bridge hasn’t been crossed, yet.
Hello, I have been watching your channel for a long time, very cool and positive !. I am making a model of the cruiser Varyag, with backlight. I have a 5v tape, powered by USB, and so that the wire does not get in the way, I made a connector in the stand, and then a power supply or Powerbank, it doesn't matter. You can view. The video is called: "Крейсер Варяг Звезда 1/350. Часть 5. Окраска корпуса, LED подсветка и остекление иллюминаторов." In your model, you can make a connector in the stand, for example, as on CCTV cameras, and a standard power supply will be connected to it. for example - 5.5*2.1mm DC Power Male Female Plug Jack Adapter My next model is to build the Titanic from Academy 1/400. Please advise - what kind of fiber optics cable should I buy for it?
I don’t have access to the 1/400 titanic. I would wait until you have the kit. Get an idea of what size the portholes should be. But before you drill the holes, go to lighthouse LED and see what size fiber optics they have that are the closet to the port hole sizes you think you need. Order those and drill the holes exact to those sizes.
@@TheMidwestModelShop Yes, the kit is already there. I bought all the add-ons that I found on it. Thank you, I will. Nice store, different sizes. I haven’t had any experience yet - with fiber optics. I think it will be interesting. Thank you! Good luck with your building.
Keep an eye out. I have a “plan” for what I want to build next (it’s going to be a BIG surprise if it works out the way I want) but that may not play out and then I’ll be picking out a different ship.
The huge model in the movie is not a hundred percent accurate , they put lights on the base of the funnels to make it look more balanced , in front of the camera ,but the real ship never had them.
Where to find 1/200 Titanic Figures? I try one brand. Tori Factory. Too small. 1/250 scale. People are 4-1/2 ft tall. good for 1/250 model. No good for Trumpet Titanic. Jinqui.
I suggest that you do NOT solder extra wire to the END of the LED strip. At this point the connection is in SERIES and you have the voltage and current drop of the entire strip. MUCH better to solder the extra wire the START of the strip. This will have them in PARALLEL and each extra will have full voltage/current. Of course, you may not have enough extra load to matter…😎 And in ELECTRONICS the BLACK WIRE is always NEGATIVE. GREEN is GROUND. 🤓 RED is Positive.
Why are you using fiber optics for portholes? Lighting gels and or just some diffusion, not to mention a really inexpensive potentiometer works great. Sorry, but you guys make everything a serious pain in the ass not to mention extremely time consuming and more expensive than necessary. Also, you may want check out some model lighting facebook pages. You really are going about your lighting the most wrong way possible. Once again, sorry I didn't mean to offend you. But there are simpler and better ways to light your model.
Yeah David you’re being rude. And to answer your question, it’s to have glass in the portholes. Not a hole. So when the lights are off, the model doest just have a million holes in it. Also. They are not actually fiber optics. They are just clear plastic rods. The thinner ones flex. And if you listened to my commentary. You would know why I choose this route. But good job not explaining how to do it better. Throwing around other product names doesn’t do any good.
They should have not showed her on the couch like that. A real lady at that time had more respect for themselves then that, and not to mention that young children was there to watch. If parents knew it was on movie, then then the young people and children would have not been there, and what happen in the old car. We try to raise our children with more respect then that. Other then that and the cussing, it was a good movie
I simply CANNOT BELIEVE MY EYES. I AM BLOWN💨 AWAY by Chuck’s work on those 3D printed MASTERPIECES. ❤️ And the Waldo + Borat?? The man is a GENiUS…Unreal. Sensational execution on the whole lot. And the packaging ??? WoW‼️Just WoW‼️Damn-near brought a tear to my eye. ❤️😪
Always better when Norah is participating. She’s great fun.
Me: *drops a curtsy 😁
Hey you all. This is sledgemaster. I haven't seen ur wonderful show in a long time. You show hasn't been popping up on my fhone. I'm glad to be back.
You guys are so cute and talented. So nice to see working together. Amazing builds you made. 😘
Beautiful figures especially the fancy beautiful lady and car.
I am really enjoying this build. Thanks so much guys!
Thanks to the both of you, great video.
Great video, I'm always look forward to these. Viewers input is very cool! Waldo, OMG! Good stuff!
You guys are awesome. I love your videos.
Hello Ben & Nora, awesome gifts of figures you guys received & that retro safe is priceless, stuffed with goodies especially the Renault & those figures of Waldo & you on the couch, doing your Burt Reynolds impersonation wz hilarious. Also wanted to thank Ben for the shout out, yes it was me who suggested running the optics thru the well deck instead of around & behind much easier & no light bleed. It was good you remembered my name Ben, but must say its (Volta) not Vol-tar no emphasis on the R because there isn't one 😆...Lmao!
Don't worry bout it, I still love you...lol great job you 2 and Nora I love your laugh even if Ben doesn't...lol 😜👍👍
Great show
Thanks very much for your time and efforts 🍻
Another excellent video guys! I’ll certainly be borrowing your idea for lighting the ends of the ship. Thanks!
It’s looking great!!!!
Can't wait for the next installment 👍
Thanks Darren! I just finished a major training even in Colorado that I’ve been at for the last 2 months. I plan on getting back into the shop this week!
I love putting models together and painting them
Thank you for sharing!!!!
Loving all the hand painted figures, like your concept for lighting this beautiful ship. Interested in seeing if the leds are going to be enough to light the entire ship. Great video, looking forward to your next video.
Wow, u all put beautiful detail everywhere
Sweet! Glad you liked the stuff! Agreed - Borat IS a doofus. Some would say he's "THE KING OF THE DOOFUSES 🙌". . . Lovin' all the other figures. Talented bunch of folks and amazing paint work. Nice work on the fiber optics. Looks great! ~Chuck
Let there be light!!!!! Nice game planing bud!! I am sure Nora is the cruise director for the display when it is finished if not the whole project! Looking great my friend!!
Awesome job with the lighting.
Awesome video Ben! The !Rights look incredible!
Oh wow that looks a little tedious
I’ve been working on drilling the holes in the giant hull piece and I successfully drilled all of the port side portholes (except for when I had to go to the hardware store because my drill bit broke and had to wait for hours because drill kept dying) I’ve been watching ThatModelBoatGuy make his RC titanic and he’s been quite an inspiration for me to make my static titanic model. I’ve only just saw and clicked on this video and watched a small bit but I might check this project out a little more when I finish writing this. Looks awesome so far!
Great video. LOVE the new figures, especially the dogs! The safe is priceless, I like the job you are doing with the LED strips lights. Makes me think that's the idea for a town I'm working on for my model railroad. Eventually it will have a Hard Rock cafe, all lit up. Hmmmmmmmmmm..... Great job!
Suggestion: As for blocking some of the light from the portholes that are now all illuminated, maybe just dab some black paint or a bit of putty on the inside ends of the optics might do the trick, that way it won't let light pass thru the optics, but will still carry the glimmer of glass in the portholes, as you pass and view the exterior of the ship once completed. 😜👍
Update: just thought of this maybe even some of that flex seal would work too.👍
Good Job. 👍 I like the color of the lights and the fiber optic is cool-beans to keep out light bleed in the well decks. A thought (I only have one a month so don't worry too much) could you tint some of the port holes to indicate subtle light variations and/or lights (i.e. sconces vs ceiling vs table lamps) in use in the cabins? Feel free to stop laughing at any point and have a great modeling day or night. 😎
I think this is a great idea. you could simulate a cabin that was not occupied but had their door open and the light from the hallway shining in Or maybe the curtains closed. Say maybe 25% brightness?
So I’m going to start by trying to tint or block the inside end of the fiber optic to see what kind of results we get. But same idea as mentioned above.
Super crazy. I bought these exact lights for my build as well. Im looking to replace the ones supplied in the kit with these.
Well I hope you like them as much as we do!
Now THIS is a happy marriage ❤️
Espectacular!!!👍👏👏
I'll be starting my 1/350 Ranger soon. Instead of attempting the "dazzle" paint scheme, I'll do a simple Sea Blue hull and Light Ghost Gray decks. But I'm still trying to find out whether the flight deck was left natural, painted the same shade of gray, painted Wood Deck Tan, or another shade of blue.
The lighting is going to look fantastic, especially once we get up into the superstructure of the ship. It's a lot of work but so worth it. 👍
The detail on the figures is unbelievable and even the packaging is outstanding. It's almost a shame to use them; the safe will make a great display item. Well done to everyone who has supplied figures; it's going to bring the ship to life at the end of the build.
Something I wondered about: is there anything that could add a wee bit of movement/animation to the ship? It would be extra work but, with the level of detail you're including, it might be worth it. I'm not too sure what you could add as a "moving feature" but there must be something. It wouldn't need to be anything large. Just a thought.👍👌😁
Cheers for now,
Dougie.
For your next project, would like to see the 1/350 German Aircraft Carrier Graf Zeppelin.
AWESOME!
Hello! Great job. It seems to me that the windows in the white part of the bow and stern are very small in diameter. In real photos of the Titanic, they look much larger.
With respect
I agree. But I don’t know what size to drill them out too so I’m sticking with what the kit has. I think most folks are building this out of the box and maybe adding some extra items here and there. So that’s what I’m trying to do as well. I want to try and portray all the options as best as I can.
@@TheMidwestModelShop Thanks for the answer. I watch your videos with great interest.
you can partially paint over some of the LED or use tape to darken dim lights, then fog out half moon quarter moon sections of the port windows to make it appear the light is coming from one side of the room or the other and various intensities, color paint LEDs to make different shades of light or the appearance of a red lamp or shade cover in the cabin.. all in the details
Hi ben I'm putting the LED lights in the Titanic model 1/200 but I've used 12v with 5v LEDs will they all still work I've not put the other 2 decks on yet
maby put a thin coat of transparent yellow or something on some of the fiber optics so there is a color difference between some of the portholes, i say yellow as it would look more like candle light , but maby a hint of orange could work aswell
Titanic was entirely lit by electric light bulbs, not candles.
@@hegiteri i know. but i assume some of the first class passengers brought some candles for a more homely feeling, but still having slight color differences between some of the portholes will make it less monolithic
Put a variable power supply on it and play with the brightness of the led’s!
Spettacolo la macchina ecc. dove si acquistano?
Love the figures! Is there a hand pressed up against the steamy windows of the car?
You can get all steamy when you look at Ben on the couch. 😆...Lmfao!!
lol . . . I tried . . . I tried . . . Modeled a hand in the window but it was too small to make out. Then tried reverse printing a hand on the window pane itself. Washed out when it was back painted. 😫
@@jackvolta3489 who the heck is ben.
@@jamesjustice4515 rinse and repeat James, obviously you haven't been watching, try again only listen this time, : ) If you meant Burt, here's a glue for yah "Smokey & the Bandit" 😎✌
@@jackvolta3489 I dont know who u r. I'm 50 years old and u dont talk to me like a child. I dont care who ben is. The fact is the lady in that movie should have more respect for herself to do what she done. In god word, her man should have been the only one to see her that way. That goes for man or woman. The movie should have been decent for a whole family to watch. It wasn't just about romance story, but it was part of a history event of the past. Even for young people to watch. Lot of lady's at that time was more god fearing and more self respect
Very informative! From an LED standpoint, my biggest problem is stripping 0603 SMD LEDs. I've been more or less, using my fingernail to cut-pull off the rubber housing because I can't find a wire stripper tiny enough to do the job. The problem with that is sometimes I mess up the fine wires, sometimes even breaking them. I was wondering what your method is, or suggestion?
Take your soldering iron and just melt the wires together without stripping them. The heat will melt the insulation and the solder will do it’s job giving you your bond. See how that works for you!
Seagulls are a great Idea but are they on scale ? Seem big compared to the other figures ...
Albatross.
Anyone know what size drill bit can be used on the 1/350 titanic Small port holes
I dont think they are seagulls. Based on the size I think they might be Gannets
Yes you might have already mentioned this before but can you please give me some information about the navigation lights I'm working on the 1:400 scale Titanic model ship and the only thing that I still need is the navigation lights because one of these days I'm going to start saving my money for the trumpeter Titanic model ship and the navigation lights is putting me on hold for finishing it up
Are you asking how am I going to do them? My plan is to run a fiber optic up to them and tint the end with red and green, respectively.
That is brilliant thank you
This trumpeter Titanic model is not cheap almost 500 dollars 😳 ugh it's going to be a while before I can get it but I love how fully detailed this model is
Hey come on guys, been nearly 2 months!!!!!!
Who made the figures? Is there a contact? I have a request for specific figures i need for my 1/200 (lots of crew and passengers in life jackets, and not to mention ismay in his dressing gown!)
I have a question: is Tamiya's hull red paint supposed to be an extra dark shade of red? Mine is almost brown. I ended up getting a generic shade of red (also from Tamiya).
Every manufacturer has their version of “hull red”. Just use what you think is best.
Color, color, who know what the actual colors were? I don't think anyone knows for sure. But here are a few references to review. First this is a wonderful series of short papers done by a gentleman named Bob Read. To find them do a web search on "Bob Read Titanic." Most you will likely not care about, unless you want to know how the ash ejectors worked. But there are some on the colors. Bob Read states that the antifouling paint was more like a pink. Humm, like you I always thought of it as a red or red/brown. But in one of James Cameron's TV specials he says that on his first dive to the wreck he came up on the side of the forward section. He stated that all he saw was a pink wall and wished that the entire ship had been painted in the antifouling paint. Some people also point to the picture of the one visible propeller and point out the paint there. Not sure I can see the pink, but maybe you can. If you can find web pictures of Cameron's studio model, bottom does look like a heavily weathered pink.
Top side colors, I think Bob Read's papers are pretty reasonable. I state this because the White Star Lines built two small ships at Harland and Wolff before the merger with Cunard Lines. Ships were Britannic (not the third vessel of the Olympic class) and Georgic. Web searches will turn up some color pictures. I'm not sure if these are colorized or not, but they do seem to match up pretty well with Bob Read's papers. A third reference is the ferry SS Nomadic also built by Harland and Wolff. It was the vessel that shuttled the passengers to Titanic at Cherbourg. Nomadic has been restored and color pictures are available of this vessel too.
All this and I will not even discuss how many blades were on the center propeller!
Bottom line, do what looks right to you!
عمل رائع جدا
Is that rudder correct ? It is so tiny in comparison to the ship .
THAT rudder is from Shapeways. It is supposed to be "correct" when compared to the kit rudder. When looking at drawings from my reference book it appears to be "correct". But is it ? Are any of them? No idea.
@@TheMidwestModelShop if that rudder is correct no wonder they couldn't steer away from disaster . It would be the equivalent of steering a canoe with your hand.
A link of where to buy this Titanic model would be very appreciated.
Thank you.
On Amazon or at your local hobby shop.
Is there something I should seal the wooden decks mith
Yes. I spray them with a clear flat. This will help stabilize the wood and IF you spill something on it, there’s a chance you can clean it up without messing up the printed lines.
Hello, what is the box size of a 1/200 scale Missouri BB-63?
This is for a future purchase and the set should be able to be transported anywhere by car.
It was around 48 inches long, I believe. You can put it in any car.
where did you get the connectors for the LED strips?
As mentioned in the video, they were included in the box with the LEDs.
Hi Ben, do you have the specs for the LED strip light, like how many watts per meter etc? Cheers Lee
Not off hand. But I showed which box I purchased and it’s available on Amazon. I’m sure the specs are there.
@@TheMidwestModelShop Thanks, finally found it after realising the make is CTcapetronix 😃
@@TheMidwestModelShop Hi Ben, do you think it would be beneficial to get the dimmable version or did you find the brightness ok? Cheers Lee
So I’m super happy with the brightness I have now. However, I may change my mind about that if I have to mount any more near the windows on the main deck. There are ways to diffuse them if I need to, but that bridge hasn’t been crossed, yet.
Hello,
I have been watching your channel for a long time, very cool and positive !.
I am making a model of the cruiser Varyag, with backlight. I have a 5v tape, powered by USB, and so that the wire does not get in the way, I made a connector in the stand, and then a power supply or Powerbank, it doesn't matter. You can view. The video is called:
"Крейсер Варяг Звезда 1/350. Часть 5. Окраска корпуса, LED подсветка и остекление иллюминаторов."
In your model, you can make a connector in the stand, for example, as on CCTV cameras, and a standard power supply will be connected to it.
for example - 5.5*2.1mm DC Power Male Female Plug Jack Adapter
My next model is to build the Titanic from Academy 1/400.
Please advise - what kind of fiber optics cable should I buy for it?
I don’t have access to the 1/400 titanic. I would wait until you have the kit. Get an idea of what size the portholes should be. But before you drill the holes, go to lighthouse LED and see what size fiber optics they have that are the closet to the port hole sizes you think you need. Order those and drill the holes exact to those sizes.
@@TheMidwestModelShop Yes, the kit is already there. I bought all the add-ons that I found on it. Thank you, I will. Nice store, different sizes. I haven’t had any experience yet - with fiber optics. I think it will be interesting. Thank you! Good luck with your building.
Do You's Have KMS TIRPITZ 🤔
No, I don’t
@@TheMidwestModelShop. Ah Ok. That Sucks
Keep an eye out. I have a “plan” for what I want to build next (it’s going to be a BIG surprise if it works out the way I want) but that may not play out and then I’ll be picking out a different ship.
@@TheMidwestModelShop. Ok No Worries. Will Do
The huge model in the movie is not a hundred percent accurate , they put lights on the base of the funnels to make it look more balanced , in front of the camera ,but the real ship never had them.
Where to find 1/200 Titanic Figures? I try one brand. Tori Factory. Too small. 1/250 scale. People are 4-1/2 ft tall. good for 1/250 model. No good for Trumpet Titanic. Jinqui.
I suggest that you do NOT solder extra wire to the END of the LED strip.
At this point the connection is in SERIES and you have the voltage and current drop of the entire strip.
MUCH better to solder the extra wire the START of the strip.
This will have them in PARALLEL and each extra will have full voltage/current.
Of course, you may not have enough extra load to matter…😎
And in ELECTRONICS the BLACK WIRE is always NEGATIVE. GREEN is GROUND. 🤓
RED is Positive.
I know. I don’t have red at this size. Black becomes common for the win.
;
Ciao, scusa no per male ma io questo lavoro lo fatto un un'anno e mezzo fa 😔
è magnifico
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Why are you using fiber optics for portholes? Lighting gels and or just some diffusion, not to mention a really inexpensive potentiometer works great. Sorry, but you guys make everything a serious pain in the ass not to mention extremely time consuming and more expensive than necessary. Also, you may want check out some model lighting facebook pages. You really are going about your lighting the most wrong way possible. Once again, sorry I didn't mean to offend you. But there are simpler and better ways to light your model.
Yeah David you’re being rude. And to answer your question, it’s to have glass in the portholes. Not a hole. So when the lights are off, the model doest just have a million holes in it. Also. They are not actually fiber optics. They are just clear plastic rods. The thinner ones flex. And if you listened to my commentary. You would know why I choose this route. But good job not explaining how to do it better. Throwing around other product names doesn’t do any good.
They should have not showed her on the couch like that. A real lady at that time had more respect for themselves then that, and not to mention that young children was there to watch. If parents knew it was on movie, then then the young people and children would have not been there, and what happen in the old car. We try to raise our children with more respect then that. Other then that and the cussing, it was a good movie
It was how it really happened and technically the drawing was art js . I also guess you don't take or kids or like art museum s js
So many mistakes. And the Titanic wasn’t fully booked when she sailed so obviously not all of the below deck cabin portholes were lit.
Build your model your way.