I am returning to the hobby after a 30 year gap so a bit rusty to put it mildly so your tutorial was very helpful in my quest to refresh my skills, the grease proof paper is a great tip btw.
An additional tip for everyone..instead of grease proof paper, paper, post it's, masking tape I use the cap off a pringles tube. Once the glue dries it can be peeled away and the lid can be used time and time again.
I USE THIN SOLIDER WIRE AS A TEMPLATE THEN TRACE IT ONTO PAPER THEN JUST FOLLOW THE TEMPLATE WITH THE PHOTO ETCH THAT WAY YOU NO IT'S GOING TO FIT IT WORKS FOR ME
Dude! That's a great technique. The piece of solder can be straightened and reused over and over. It should really help on tricky curves and things where spring back is a problem. I'm a car modeler just getting started in ships and need this kind of info. Thanks for sharing.
@@cratecruncher6687 thanks buddy me to build alot of trucks and cars in the middle of the cancer awareness build the GT-R NISSAN with lights always trying to learn new tricks 👍
Modge Podge Tacky an be your friend. The other handy thing is a set of dividers, especially those which can be fixed to a specific span. Use the dividers to measure off the deck runs, and this will help to avoid that dread coming up either short or long--neither being very good other than for exercising one's vocabulary of expletives. In a 3 part pend like that, I'd take the middle measurement and try and find the run of railing where the stanchions best fit that center, then trim the wings to their measurements. Having the bend fall on a stanchion really looks better. I also usually shoot a coat of the vertical superstructure paint on the rails before installing., as touching up is less likely to ding fragile PE. I really like the color you used for the main deck. Please note that USN uses that same color for all decks barring only flight deck surfaces (those look like tarmac IRL). ADM Hopper was one of my mentors, and your model is a credit to the ship named after her.
Very informative. One tip cut your photo etch on a ceramic tile or something without any give in it and you won't bend the PE when you cut it. Hope this is of interest to you. Vic
@Van Gott Etch can cut ultra fine details that plastics can't handle. The plastic kits though are well detailed are restricted by the moulding (drafting). Etch is to enhance a model to the next level as well as adding another path to the hobby.
For someone who is new to modelling. My first build will be Tamiya Tirpitz 1/350. Looked daunting when the photo etch arrived in the post today. I found this video very helpful as I would’ve gone in hand fisted and applied the glue to the etch first and made a total mess of it.
Often, I dip the photo etch in Elmer's glue along the contact area. The stuff is sticky and goopy and creates an immediate loose adhesion, allowing you to put it in place and fine tune the position before it hardens. Works superbly with resin and balsa decks. YMMV with plastic. Elmer's dries clear, so unless you leave an absolute mound of the stuff it becomes invisible in an hour or so.
I actually found it helpful to paint or at least primer the photo etch before attaching. You will likely have to touch up after but it has saved lots of time and frustration. Also, having plenty of extra railing around in case you mess up what the kit comes with is good. Fancy tools may be helpful but there are plenty of household items that can also do the trick.
Good vid! I use cleaned up plastic recyled foods lids as palettes for glues, painting etc. They are glue proof but also a good surface's for brush painting tests etc...
Thanks m8 I know this is 6 years old but I like the way you do things and PE looks good and you've proved that with a bit of patience it's not the nightmare it can look. I'm adding it to airfixs 1:350 Type 45 destroyer if that goes well I'll do the same on Tamiya s 1:350 Missouri , Thanks for the video it's been a well explained big help. John F New Zealand PS: the focus was fine
stanchions on the apex of the deck angle , you cannot bend railing between stanchions, in reality that would bowstring the railing, so you need accurate stanchion distances...always bend on the stanchion
Have watch a few videos but only completed one model Better to paint the etch first with the airbrush. May need to touch up a bit where it flakes off but I found that easier.
Great tutorial very informative jus started using pe on my last couple of models I agree very very frustrating at times surprised I've got hair left lol btw I've been using gorilla glue with the brush with it easy to apply and no mess
Thanks...I'm not as steady of hand as you have helped in showing me what to do. Another thing would be how you measured the length you needed around corners and such!
Thanks for the video. I rather prefer using diluted PVA or “white glue”. I put the rail on the model, use several thin Tamiya masking strips to hold it into place then use a small brush to “paint” on the PVA glue. The advantage is that it gives me an opportunity to make sure I can modify the rail to the correct version. I read somewhere that a modeler recommends to never use crazy glue unless the part is exactly where you want it.
Can't remember where I found out about it. Reminds me of how Colman made his money. It wasn't the mustard that people ate, it was what they left on the plate! Your video was very impressive, lots of honesty/experience in there.
Thank you for the video very informative , i have just decided to get back into a hobby that i started as a child , what with general life taking up my time i gave up modeling 40 odd years ago , but as happens in life i now have grandchildren and as they have done the odd bit of modeling , i now find myself wanting to give it a go again , my question is this with my limited experience when i used super glue i found it melted the plastic that i was trying to glue , is that still the same today or is there a special way of doing it without melting the plastic ?????
I sometimes brush them James but also occasionally airbrush the PE with a coat of grey (typically Tamiya Sky Grey) and then glue them in place. After which, I carefully touch up any bits, as carefully as I can without ruining any details.
I'm considering surrounding myself in some kind of fine mesh netting when I work with photo etch parts! What I mean is, some kind of mesh "cage" from the work surface up to just above my head, and as wide as my shoulders. So many times when I work with very tiny photo etch parts for 1:35 scale tanks, I'll be trying to hold or position a part with a pair of tweezers when suddenly the part snaps out of the tweezers and goes flying off into nothingness. I have lost so many parts this way. It is so frustrating. Some of the Dragon (DML) WWII tank kits come with photo etch parts that are mind bogglingly small and cannot be worked with without magnifying glasses. And when the part this small flies out of your tweezers, it is gone forever. I have spent too many hours on my hands and knees, thumbing through the carpet below my work desk looking for a part of photo etch that is slightly larger than a grain of sand.
Good idea, but it looks like you mis-measured on both sides, and have an extra bend on the side you showed being glued it. Or was that intentional to show wear or damage?
I see that in this case the model is made without the ugly overscale plastic railings, so you can use the provided photo etch parts. But what about an older kit? Do you have to trim all the plastic railings and put the photo etch ones?
+NeAr1986 For older kits, where you can buy after market photoetch parts, yes you will need to remove any plastic parts as per the photoetch instructions. Railings are normally added on after and in that case, just follow the photoetch instructions. It can be a little scary cutting of the plastic but follow the instructions and take your time
Thanks for the info. I'll give it a go myself when I have to do railings. I have subscribed to your channel. Now for a question: When do you paint the railings? Before you attach it, and how do you go when the ship is grey and the deck is another colour? I would be interested in your answer.
Thanks for subscribing and for the question Mick. That is one of the tough questions!! I've never tried painting the PE beforehand, as I have always glued it down first. But I am tempted to try pre-painting to compare the two. What method do you use?
I tried both but not the way you showed here and was never really successful. What I really like to know is how to paint the floor and the apply the photo etch pre-painted or clean attached then painted.
While it seems that photo etching can add some nice detail to a ship, I'm not sure of why you would use it for railings for one. I was on two ships (USS Nimitz (CVN-68) and USS Copeland (FFG-25)) and on both sips the rails were painted gray. Same with the netting around the flight deck. I believe the netting was steel cable, but don't quote me on that. But the frame was definitely painted gray. I'm just not sure that the photo etching pieces would be worth it or not.
im currently doing a 1/350 scale model of the type 23 frigate HMS Monmouth and im having trouble with some of the very small photo etching parts any advice would be appreciated.
Thank you for the video🔝🔝 I didn't work with photoedge before but i will. Interesting way to do it,because i work the same way with superglue when i have small parts to.put on the modell. 🚢⚓🙋♂️
I am returning to the hobby after a 30 year gap so a bit rusty to put it mildly so your tutorial was very helpful in my quest to refresh my skills, the grease proof paper is a great tip btw.
Thanks for letting me know! Welcome back to the hobby, have fun!
@@JJModelMaking quick one, for a 1/350 ship, can i use a 1/200 handrail? its very hard to get an extact 1/350 on my country.. im building for my DD52
An additional tip for everyone..instead of grease proof paper, paper, post it's, masking tape I use the cap off a pringles tube. Once the glue dries it can be peeled away and the lid can be used time and time again.
Like it!
Brilliant!
Milk jug caps work to and you can hold it too.
Our the plastic lid off a tin of instant coffee
I USE THIN SOLIDER WIRE AS A TEMPLATE THEN TRACE IT ONTO PAPER THEN JUST FOLLOW THE TEMPLATE WITH THE PHOTO ETCH THAT WAY YOU NO IT'S GOING TO FIT IT WORKS FOR ME
Dude! That's a great technique. The piece of solder can be straightened and reused over and over. It should really help on tricky curves and things where spring back is a problem. I'm a car modeler just getting started in ships and need this kind of info. Thanks for sharing.
@@cratecruncher6687 thanks buddy me to build alot of trucks and cars in the middle of the cancer awareness build the GT-R NISSAN with lights always trying to learn new tricks 👍
Modge Podge Tacky an be your friend. The other handy thing is a set of dividers, especially those which can be fixed to a specific span. Use the dividers to measure off the deck runs, and this will help to avoid that dread coming up either short or long--neither being very good other than for exercising one's vocabulary of expletives.
In a 3 part pend like that, I'd take the middle measurement and try and find the run of railing where the stanchions best fit that center, then trim the wings to their measurements. Having the bend fall on a stanchion really looks better.
I also usually shoot a coat of the vertical superstructure paint on the rails before installing., as touching up is less likely to ding fragile PE.
I really like the color you used for the main deck. Please note that USN uses that same color for all decks barring only flight deck surfaces (those look like tarmac IRL).
ADM Hopper was one of my mentors, and your model is a credit to the ship named after her.
Dividers is a good tip, thanks.
Very informative. One tip cut your photo etch on a ceramic tile or something without any give in it and you won't bend the PE when you cut it. Hope this is of interest to you. Vic
It was indeed
@Van Gott Etch can cut ultra fine details that plastics can't handle. The plastic kits though are well detailed are restricted by the moulding (drafting). Etch is to enhance a model to the next level as well as adding another path to the hobby.
Use a small block of something to put on top of the pe, stops it pinging away on the final cut.
For someone who is new to modelling. My first build will be Tamiya Tirpitz 1/350. Looked daunting when the photo etch arrived in the post today. I found this video very helpful as I would’ve gone in hand fisted and applied the glue to the etch first and made a total mess of it.
Your patience is admirable.
Patience is a virtue but, I WANT IT NOW!
Often, I dip the photo etch in Elmer's glue along the contact area. The stuff is sticky and goopy and creates an immediate loose adhesion, allowing you to put it in place and fine tune the position before it hardens. Works superbly with resin and balsa decks. YMMV with plastic. Elmer's dries clear, so unless you leave an absolute mound of the stuff it becomes invisible in an hour or so.
I actually found it helpful to paint or at least primer the photo etch before attaching. You will likely have to touch up after but it has saved lots of time and frustration. Also, having plenty of extra railing around in case you mess up what the kit comes with is good. Fancy tools may be helpful but there are plenty of household items that can also do the trick.
+Bob Adcock yes, I think you might be on to something there! Thank you for letting me know
Splendid video and a novel use of baking paper - which I’ll adopt into my model making.
Good vid! I use cleaned up plastic recyled foods lids as palettes for glues, painting etc. They are glue proof but also a good surface's for brush painting tests etc...
Thank you so mich for this. I am building 1/350 scate Titanic and it has these parts on it. You are a great help
Thanks m8 I know this is 6 years old but I like the way you do things and PE looks good and you've proved that with a bit of patience it's not the nightmare it can look. I'm adding it to airfixs 1:350 Type 45 destroyer if that goes well I'll do the same on Tamiya s 1:350 Missouri , Thanks for the video it's been a well explained big help.
John F
New Zealand
PS: the focus was fine
So happy to hear you glued the other piece in a month or so ago! It's not just me!!!!
stanchions on the apex of the deck angle , you cannot bend railing between stanchions, in reality that would bowstring the railing, so you need accurate stanchion distances...always bend on the stanchion
There in lies the problem with generic rails. They aren't measured to fit different distances and pitches.
Have watch a few videos but only completed one model
Better to paint the etch first with the airbrush. May need to touch up a bit where it flakes off but I found that easier.
Very delicate work, patience. a greeting
+JJ HISTORICAL MODELS Thank you very much!
Sweet video.. ill try to use to use on the uss missouri with photo etch
+Robert Chinnock Best of luck!
Great tutorial very informative jus started using pe on my last couple of models I agree very very frustrating at times surprised I've got hair left lol btw I've been using gorilla glue with the brush with it easy to apply and no mess
thanks alot mate in between your video and all the positive responses I feel you have cleared up my fear of using brass etching ! great job
Thanks...I'm not as steady of hand as you have helped in showing me what to do. Another thing would be how you measured the length you needed around corners and such!
Very informative, and crisply presented. Bravo!
Thanks for the video. I rather prefer using diluted PVA or “white glue”. I put the rail on the model, use several thin Tamiya masking strips to hold it into place then use a small brush to “paint” on the PVA glue. The advantage is that it gives me an opportunity to make sure I can modify the rail to the correct version. I read somewhere that a modeler recommends to never use crazy glue unless the part is exactly where you want it.
Sure thing. Super glue has worked for me
Nice !
Like the video, very helpful. Tip, Keep super glue in the fridge- it last much longer.
Really!?! I have never heard of that before, thank you Chris!
Can't remember where I found out about it. Reminds me of how Colman made his money. It wasn't the mustard that people ate, it was what they left on the plate! Your video was very impressive, lots of honesty/experience in there.
+chris caplin Fab, thanks for the feedback!
I keep mine in the freezer. Seems to keep very well!!
nice demo
I use drill bits to bend a curve radius. I then put Elmer's glue at the bottom of the railing to give more holding power..
I also use needle nose pliers to bend angles. Pretty much use your methods. Great minds think alike!
Good info tho splitting hairs, the queen is a ruler, what you have is a steel rule 😎. Cheers. 👽
It was really an useful video.really thanks
Thank you for the video very informative , i have just decided to get back into a hobby that i started as a child , what with general life taking up my time i gave up modeling 40 odd years ago , but as happens in life i now have grandchildren and as they have done the odd bit of modeling , i now find myself wanting to give it a go again , my question is this with my limited experience when i used super glue i found it melted the plastic that i was trying to glue , is that still the same today or is there a special way of doing it without melting the plastic ?????
Wow amazing. The only models I can make are ones I make from cardboard and other stuff.
Thank you, just practice really
Thank you
GREAT VIDEO!! BTW What is the name of your intro music ?
Do you then brush paint your railings? Are you always able to access the backsides? What about paint ruining fine details?
I sometimes brush them James but also occasionally airbrush the PE with a coat of grey (typically Tamiya Sky Grey) and then glue them in place. After which, I carefully touch up any bits, as carefully as I can without ruining any details.
Can I use Tamiya cement as the cohesive between the PT and plastic?
Unfortunately not, styrene cement just won't stick to photoetch
@@JJModelMaking Thx, wanted to cut budget for my 1/350 Tirpitz lol
The 2 Musketeers gasp! Spare no expense! 🙄😂😂😂🐒
Do you recommend painting the PE first and the bending and installing, if would would bend it, paint it, the glue it?
Generally, I'd bend it, glue it in place and then paint it. Some pieces you might have to paint before installation
Good video
Great
CA glue is activated by moisture. There is no moisture in wax paper.
VMS superglue is much better than normal superglue,bit more expensive though.
For the destroyers, do you end up painting the photo edge grey since the railings on the ships aren’t golden?
I'm considering surrounding myself in some kind of fine mesh netting when I work with photo etch parts! What I mean is, some kind of mesh "cage" from the work surface up to just above my head, and as wide as my shoulders. So many times when I work with very tiny photo etch parts for 1:35 scale tanks, I'll be trying to hold or position a part with a pair of tweezers when suddenly the part snaps out of the tweezers and goes flying off into nothingness. I have lost so many parts this way. It is so frustrating. Some of the Dragon (DML) WWII tank kits come with photo etch parts that are mind bogglingly small and cannot be worked with without magnifying glasses. And when the part this small flies out of your tweezers, it is gone forever. I have spent too many hours on my hands and knees, thumbing through the carpet below my work desk looking for a part of photo etch that is slightly larger than a grain of sand.
have you ever tried to bridge small gaps in the fit with jb weld?
A question that does not relate to PE. What camera do you use for your content? Cheers mate. Love your channel
Thank you Simon! Most of the videos are recorded on my mobile phone, which has changed over the years, not a fancy camera
will work for 1/700?
Yep, will do
Why do you have a Battlestar attached to a Constitution class warp nacelle pylon?
??? Two models on a bookshelf, is that what you mean?
Good idea, but it looks like you mis-measured on both sides, and have an extra bend on the side you showed being glued it. Or was that intentional to show wear or damage?
broderp Wow, very observant of you, good eyes. I must have made an error
What order do you paint and glue your parts. it looks like the decks are painted. does that make it difficult for gluing of the PE?
I see that in this case the model is made without the ugly overscale plastic railings, so you can use the provided photo etch parts. But what about an older kit? Do you have to trim all the plastic railings and put the photo etch ones?
+NeAr1986 For older kits, where you can buy after market photoetch parts, yes you will need to remove any plastic parts as per the photoetch instructions. Railings are normally added on after and in that case, just follow the photoetch instructions. It can be a little scary cutting of the plastic but follow the instructions and take your time
JJ Model Making Thank you :)
What is grease proof paper?
Thanks for the info. I'll give it a go myself when I have to do railings. I have subscribed to your channel. Now for a question: When do you paint the railings? Before you attach it, and how do you go when the ship is grey and the deck is another colour? I would be interested in your answer.
Thanks for subscribing and for the question Mick. That is one of the tough questions!! I've never tried painting the PE beforehand, as I have always glued it down first. But I am tempted to try pre-painting to compare the two. What method do you use?
I tried both but not the way you showed here and was never really successful. What I really like to know is how to paint the floor and the apply the photo etch pre-painted or clean attached then painted.
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
While it seems that photo etching can add some nice detail to a ship, I'm not sure of why you would use it for railings for one. I was on two ships (USS Nimitz (CVN-68) and USS Copeland (FFG-25)) and on both sips the rails were painted gray. Same with the netting around the flight deck. I believe the netting was steel cable, but don't quote me on that. But the frame was definitely painted gray. I'm just not sure that the photo etching pieces would be worth it or not.
You paint them once on the model. Given this is a navy vessel the railings are often the colour of the ship.
im currently doing a 1/350 scale model of the type 23 frigate HMS Monmouth and im having trouble with some of the very small photo etching parts any advice would be appreciated.
+paul briggs Sure thing, happy to help. Which parts are causing the problems specifically?
its mainly the little pieces for the radar tower and some very small ladders
Im doing the same kit..very difficult..it's not perfect, but its coming
Which kit is this. I got the uss cole. Just started building a Chinese destroyer
+Graham Mck It's the USS Hopper
JJ Model Making nice.
Thank you for the video🔝🔝
I didn't work with photoedge before but i will.
Interesting way to do it,because i work the same way with superglue when i have small parts to.put on the modell.
🚢⚓🙋♂️
Great to hear! Glad it helped
Don't cut PE on a soft surface, you'll bend it 🙅🙅🙅