Thank you for making this. I just did head gasket crank housing gasket, crank seal, intermediate shaft seal, timing belt and alternator belt on mine. Waiting on the valve shim kit and hushers for it, they’re backordered 3 months. I’m glad I have this as a reference tool. I have a few friendly tips for you as well. You can use a pry bar on that tensioner and tighten the nut. Then slide the belt on. And loosen the nut. Also they have a crank pulley holder on IPD. It goes under the tensioner nut and holds the crank in place so you can remove that bolt easier. My 740 wagon has 376,000 miles on it and I’m sure I’ll make it to 500,000 at least. 👍🏻🇸🇪 badass cars
Awesome video man!...keep the Volvo content alive!...I really appreciate you making this video comes in handy for anyone with some mechanical experience to work on their Volvo at home! ♂️🇸🇪🏁
Great that a person (you) can still do work such as this on a car and encourage others to do so!!! A few extras that you surely know but didn't show: 1. Please update to make an IMPORTANT point about the order and stages in which you should remove, and re-fit/torque, the camshaft bearing bolts. These SHOULD be done in the right order, and in stages, otherwise you risk damaging the camshaft and/or camshaft bearings. Basically the load has to be released (when removing) and re-applied (when re-fitting) GRADUALLY in the order given by the manufacturer: see workshop manual. This ISN'T the same for every make/model of car: it's specific for Volvo 240 B20-23 motors. Usually it starts with very slightly slackening the nuts on the middle bearing, and then working out toward the end bearings; then slackening each one a bit more, in the same order, and finally, when it's clear that none of the cams has any valve-spring pressure on it, slackening all and just taking them off however you like; probably best to keep track of their exact positions. Replacement is the same in reverse. 2. When measuring play between lifter-shim and cam, it's only on many Volvo redblock engines (possibly not all, but certainly the older ones) that you can risk rotating the camshaft when the timing belt is off: these engines are "non-interference" engines, so the pistons and valves never quite touch each other: even if your timing belt snaps whilst running, the valves won't damage anything. HOWEVER, in interference engines, they certainly will, and just turning the camshaft with the timing belt off will cause one or two valves to contact the piston head. If you apply too much force, you might damage the valve head, or just get some unwanted piston head debris onto it. For safety - because most cars have interference engines - always rotate the whole engine, with the timing belt ON, to change the orientation of the camshaft lobes to check play. 3. When replacing the camshaft, always clean and re-oil liberally all the bearings and journals.
A few tips to make it easier on yourself when doing this, when you're taking the cambelt off, tighten the tentioner nut in "untentioned" mode, that way you can easier get the belt off and the new one on, then you just back the nut off til the tentioner takes up the slack and tighen the nut back on again. If you're taking the camshaft out - knowing the place and direction of the bearing caps is cruical! A quick tip for b230 engines is, the caps are numbered 1-5 and the number is on the intake side (which makes it a lot easier keeping track of them), however - always check that this is the case before disassembly, as I'm not sure if the older b230's have numbered camcaps. As for b230's with distributors mounted on the back of the camshaft it can seem like a pain to get the distributor out in order to lift the camshaft out, the trick is to take out the two 10mm screws that hold the distributor in place and lift it up with the camshaft, and slide the camshaft out of the distributor shaft. And then, reassembly - how the hecc do I place the camshaft back in, I forgot how it was rotated! Well, if you have a b230E, b230A, b230F you can spin the camshaft however you like because these are non-interference motors and the valves will never touch, even if the piston is at TDC and the valves are fully open, just line the marks up. Valve clearance should be 0.35mm warm, but these don't expand much and setting it to that value cold is completely fine. Lastly, whenever you take the cambelt off - spin the tentioner. it should have a little drag since it has a greased bearing, if it spins very freely and/or makes a sound, it's time to change it. :)
I will be installing a new cam in a few and this will be the first time doing something like this on my 740 non turbo. I am educating myself as much as I can with the help of youtube and Brickboard.com a forum for Volvos. One of the areas I am concerned about is the valve gap adjustment especially the procedure with a new cam and the intention of replacing the hushers. So this is what i am thinking. Leave the crank mark at tdc after timing belt removal. Remove old cam, replace new VX cam WITHOUT the new hushers installed as I saw where measuring the lash could be problematic with the new hushers installed. Since this is a non interference engine the cam can rotate without any issue. Rotate the cam and measure and determine shims required for all positions. Remove new Cam, install hushers and appropriate shims. Now reinstall new cam again then continue the job. What I don't know is this . With the cam sprocket attached will it be easy to rotate the cam by hand using a ratchet? I plan on lubricating with engine rebuild grease upon assembling and reassembling. FWIW I have done a couple timing belt and seal replacements on this car before so I am quite familiar with the process. What do you guys think about intended method for the valve clearance adjustment? Regards
@@abyssalsoul6216 Yeah, you'll want to measure the valveplay without hushers installed, write them all down. Measure the existing shims and put in bigger shims to subtract the valveplay to about 0.3-0.35mm, You can rotate the cam easily with a ratchet clockwise with the belt off, Don't go anticlockwise unless you want to accidentally unbolt the camgear. Since you're swapping the cam - do that first, make sure to torque the caps correctly. That should be about 20nm from the middle out in a spiral pattern, but don't take my word for it. It's not a difficult task really, but the bolts for the caps do break off easily in my experience - so a torque wrench is nice to have for sure.
I am in the process of installing an IPD VX shaft. Most of the hushers disintegrated in my engine and if you cannot find some of the pieces just turn the bucket over and you will see them sticking on the underside.
Buy the crankshaft holder tool from IPD it’s better and safer than using a cheater bar on the pulley and bouncing the starter. Also the tool can be used on the other pulleys to remove or install thrr Dr ir bolts. Inexpensive torque wrenches go on sale at Harbor Freight periodically and it makes sense to buy one or all three in the common socket sizes 1/4,3/8,1/2.
With a manual, why would you put it in 4th gear to take off the crank bolt? I'm going to be doing this very soon to mine, if I have it in 1st gear will it damage something?
Unlikely to damage anything, but the car will probably move forward when you turn the wrench with all that torque multiplication. I use 4th because it is the direct drive.
@@epiglottisdynasty what would it mean if I put it in 4th and had a buddy step on the brakes, and the motor just rotated as I turned the breaker bar on the crank bolt?
I appreciate the video instruction, but how can I trust a “mechanic” with no caliper or torque wrench? Also, proper preparation before delving into toleranced internal parts is to clean the crap off the engine BEFORE beginning work.
Helpful. But that's not the right way to install those cam seals! They will definitely leak if done that way. Always push them in after its all torqued down. And don't push them in that far. They only go flush with the small chamfer on the edge
@@epiglottisdynasty both, front and rear. You're supposed to just push em in gently. They also only go in a short distance. If you look close, you'll notice the lip has a slight 45 degree beveled edge. It should sit flush with the end of the bevel.
@@epiglottisdynasty Thanks for the info. I saw those on the FCP Euro website, but chose to go with the Genuine Volvo dampers instead along with the valve cover gasket. I plan on doing the valve lash check/adjustment and damper replacement once the weather warms up into the 50's and plan on referring to your video for assistance with this project. So, thanks for uploading it.
@@epiglottisdynasty I am also considering replacing my 'M' camshaft in my B230F and would like to know if you have any experience/knowledge with the IPD VX camshaft - or any other non-turbo cam for this engine. Thanks.
@@bobjohnson205 Did you do the VX? I'm in the same position you were.. need to do timing belt.. and thought I'd ditch the "M" cam as well. . If you did it, how's it going? are you happy with it?
@@punhoss I still have the original 'M' cam. As the car gets older it seems to get faster! Or maybe it's just me getting older and slower and everything else getting faster! lol
Engine bay looks really clean 🤣 you cleaned absolutely nothing under the hood of that car.. not even the oil on the rear timing cover. I hope you don't actually do this for a living..
Thank you for making this. I just did head gasket crank housing gasket, crank seal, intermediate shaft seal, timing belt and alternator belt on mine. Waiting on the valve shim kit and hushers for it, they’re backordered 3 months. I’m glad I have this as a reference tool. I have a few friendly tips for you as well. You can use a pry bar on that tensioner and tighten the nut. Then slide the belt on. And loosen the nut. Also they have a crank pulley holder on IPD. It goes under the tensioner nut and holds the crank in place so you can remove that bolt easier. My 740 wagon has 376,000 miles on it and I’m sure I’ll make it to 500,000 at least. 👍🏻🇸🇪 badass cars
Awesome video man!...keep the Volvo content alive!...I really appreciate you making this video comes in handy for anyone with some mechanical experience to work on their Volvo at home! ♂️🇸🇪🏁
Great that a person (you) can still do work such as this on a car and encourage others to do so!!! A few extras that you surely know but didn't show: 1. Please update to make an IMPORTANT point about the order and stages in which you should remove, and re-fit/torque, the camshaft bearing bolts. These SHOULD be done in the right order, and in stages, otherwise you risk damaging the camshaft and/or camshaft bearings. Basically the load has to be released (when removing) and re-applied (when re-fitting) GRADUALLY in the order given by the manufacturer: see workshop manual. This ISN'T the same for every make/model of car: it's specific for Volvo 240 B20-23 motors. Usually it starts with very slightly slackening the nuts on the middle bearing, and then working out toward the end bearings; then slackening each one a bit more, in the same order, and finally, when it's clear that none of the cams has any valve-spring pressure on it, slackening all and just taking them off however you like; probably best to keep track of their exact positions. Replacement is the same in reverse. 2. When measuring play between lifter-shim and cam, it's only on many Volvo redblock engines (possibly not all, but certainly the older ones) that you can risk rotating the camshaft when the timing belt is off: these engines are "non-interference" engines, so the pistons and valves never quite touch each other: even if your timing belt snaps whilst running, the valves won't damage anything. HOWEVER, in interference engines, they certainly will, and just turning the camshaft with the timing belt off will cause one or two valves to contact the piston head. If you apply too much force, you might damage the valve head, or just get some unwanted piston head debris onto it. For safety - because most cars have interference engines - always rotate the whole engine, with the timing belt ON, to change the orientation of the camshaft lobes to check play. 3. When replacing the camshaft, always clean and re-oil liberally all the bearings and journals.
Awesome video that is a ton of help for those of us new to the b230 life.
A few tips to make it easier on yourself when doing this, when you're taking the cambelt off, tighten the tentioner nut in "untentioned" mode, that way you can easier get the belt off and the new one on, then you just back the nut off til the tentioner takes up the slack and tighen the nut back on again. If you're taking the camshaft out - knowing the place and direction of the bearing caps is cruical! A quick tip for b230 engines is, the caps are numbered 1-5 and the number is on the intake side (which makes it a lot easier keeping track of them), however - always check that this is the case before disassembly, as I'm not sure if the older b230's have numbered camcaps. As for b230's with distributors mounted on the back of the camshaft it can seem like a pain to get the distributor out in order to lift the camshaft out, the trick is to take out the two 10mm screws that hold the distributor in place and lift it up with the camshaft, and slide the camshaft out of the distributor shaft. And then, reassembly - how the hecc do I place the camshaft back in, I forgot how it was rotated! Well, if you have a b230E, b230A, b230F you can spin the camshaft however you like because these are non-interference motors and the valves will never touch, even if the piston is at TDC and the valves are fully open, just line the marks up. Valve clearance should be 0.35mm warm, but these don't expand much and setting it to that value cold is completely fine. Lastly, whenever you take the cambelt off - spin the tentioner. it should have a little drag since it has a greased bearing, if it spins very freely and/or makes a sound, it's time to change it. :)
I will be installing a new cam in a few and this will be the first time doing something like this on my 740 non turbo. I am educating myself as much as I can with the help of youtube and Brickboard.com a forum for Volvos. One of the areas I am concerned about is the valve gap adjustment especially the procedure with a new cam and the intention of replacing the hushers. So this is what i am thinking. Leave the crank mark at tdc after timing belt removal. Remove old cam, replace new VX cam WITHOUT the new hushers installed as I saw where measuring the lash could be problematic with the new hushers installed. Since this is a non interference engine the cam can rotate without any issue. Rotate the cam and measure and determine shims required for all positions. Remove new Cam, install hushers and appropriate shims. Now reinstall new cam again then continue the job. What I don't know is this . With the cam sprocket attached will it be easy to rotate the cam by hand using a ratchet? I plan on lubricating with engine rebuild grease upon assembling and reassembling. FWIW I have done a couple timing belt and seal replacements on this car before so I am quite familiar with the process. What do you guys think about intended method for the valve clearance adjustment? Regards
@@abyssalsoul6216 Yeah, you'll want to measure the valveplay without hushers installed, write them all down. Measure the existing shims and put in bigger shims to subtract the valveplay to about 0.3-0.35mm, You can rotate the cam easily with a ratchet clockwise with the belt off, Don't go anticlockwise unless you want to accidentally unbolt the camgear. Since you're swapping the cam - do that first, make sure to torque the caps correctly. That should be about 20nm from the middle out in a spiral pattern, but don't take my word for it. It's not a difficult task really, but the bolts for the caps do break off easily in my experience - so a torque wrench is nice to have for sure.
@@lvomotor Yes! I do have a torque wrench , a few actually with different ranges. Thanks for the affirmation. I am really looking forward to this!
@@abyssalsoul6216 No worries, you already seem to know more than I did the first time I put together an engine :')
I just found your video, but I wish I'd found it before I did my timing belt and seals a few months ago. Great video. Definitely saving it.
Super helpful, thank you
I am in the process of installing an IPD VX shaft. Most of the hushers disintegrated in my engine and if you cannot find some of the pieces just turn the bucket over and you will see them sticking on the underside.
I believe the torque for the cam nuts is 14 ft/lbs
Correct.
Buy the crankshaft holder tool from IPD it’s better and safer than using a cheater bar on the pulley and bouncing the starter. Also the tool can be used on the other pulleys to remove or install thrr Dr ir bolts. Inexpensive torque wrenches go on sale at Harbor Freight periodically and it makes sense to buy one or all three in the common socket sizes 1/4,3/8,1/2.
Hello, is the Hazet 2574-1 hold-down device suitable for replacing the valve plates on a B230F?
Love this video, thanks.
With a manual, why would you put it in 4th gear to take off the crank bolt? I'm going to be doing this very soon to mine, if I have it in 1st gear will it damage something?
Unlikely to damage anything, but the car will probably move forward when you turn the wrench with all that torque multiplication. I use 4th because it is the direct drive.
@@epiglottisdynasty good to know thank you! Makes sense!
@@epiglottisdynasty what would it mean if I put it in 4th and had a buddy step on the brakes, and the motor just rotated as I turned the breaker bar on the crank bolt?
I appreciate the video instruction, but how can I trust a “mechanic” with no caliper or torque wrench? Also, proper preparation before delving into toleranced internal parts is to clean the crap off the engine BEFORE beginning work.
Where did you get the small cam part , have a part number ? Thanks
How do you line up the timing marks after you've broken the crank pulley bolt loose? How do you rotate the motor without the crank pulley bolt?
The crank pulley is keyed into the crankshaft. With the plugs out, you can use the pulley to turn the engine with the bolt removed.
Guy says no sealant needed at the corners of valve cover gasket and end bearing caps but his entire engine is covered in oil... Lol
That is pretty dry for a B230 engine... The oil more often comes from the turbo oil return tube or from the oil cooler.
That’s a metal fence post cap
Thanks!
Helpful. But that's not the right way to install those cam seals! They will definitely leak if done that way. Always push them in after its all torqued down. And don't push them in that far. They only go flush with the small chamfer on the edge
The rear cam seal? I didn't think they would go in once the cam is torqued down.
@@epiglottisdynasty both, front and rear. You're supposed to just push em in gently. They also only go in a short distance. If you look close, you'll notice the lip has a slight 45 degree beveled edge. It should sit flush with the end of the bevel.
Hi. What brand of valve 'hushers' did you use for thjs job? Thanks.
The ones in here were Victor Reinz, I got them from FCP Euro.
@@epiglottisdynasty Thanks for the info. I saw those on the FCP Euro website, but chose to go with the Genuine Volvo dampers instead along with the valve cover gasket. I plan on doing the valve lash check/adjustment and damper replacement once the weather warms up into the 50's and plan on referring to your video for assistance with this project. So, thanks for uploading it.
@@epiglottisdynasty I am also considering replacing my 'M' camshaft in my B230F and would like to know if you have any experience/knowledge with the IPD VX camshaft - or any other non-turbo cam for this engine. Thanks.
@@bobjohnson205 Did you do the VX? I'm in the same position you were.. need to do timing belt.. and thought I'd ditch the "M" cam as well. . If you did it, how's it going? are you happy with it?
@@punhoss I still have the original 'M' cam. As the car gets older it seems to get faster! Or maybe it's just me getting older and slower and everything else getting faster! lol
It's from fence
So dark brother
Too dark
What a shoddy job. None of the parts worked on,were properly cleaned, prior to replacing the components.
Engine bay looks really clean 🤣 you cleaned absolutely nothing under the hood of that car.. not even the oil on the rear timing cover. I hope you don't actually do this for a living..