This video details how to install a fan behind the heat-sink on the electronic control board. This prevents the board from overheating and causing an E3 error code.
I just finished implementing your fix on my washer. We tested it the other day, and the heatsink was very hot. We ran the washer with the control panel hanging off and a desk fan blowing at the back of the panel. It ran through several cycles without the error. I just finished cutting the hole and installing the fan and switch. I'm running a super wash load right now. So far so good! Thanks a ton for this video!
I have the exact same washer and exact same E3 error problem. I installed the fan and switch 2 days ago and have done 5-6 loads with no error. Than you for sharing this fix. THIS is what the internet is good for!
Thanks for sharing. Don't need the information at the moment, however you never know. Appreciate you taking the time to document and make it available.
Thanks for your generous effort to show everyone how to fix the problem of overheating from the control board when it is running. Have many great days. Hien Le
The real issue is the solder connections on the back side of the heat sinks need to be re-soldered, it's a bit of a job to get to the back side of the panel, but that fixed my issue.
I've been having the same problem with my washer it's the exact same model as yours this is a good video it's going to save everyone a lot of money but they don't have to pay for an overpriced appliance repair man
Wow! I finally did it! It works! After 2 years of running it with the control panel open, and a fan in front of the washer,,, So yes, ! Thanks a lot How many years since you did it,? And do you still use it now? 2020? Does it still works?
Hi great video. About to run to Radio Shack and pick up the same parts. What I'm unsure about is how you connected the transformer, fan and extension chord together. Did the transformer plug into the other end of the extension chord directly?
please help me my mah8700awm turn off. this dont turn on again nothing. is time to change for a new one. this working well for 12 years. The pcb is not more available. i can get a used one?
I have one question on this video and that would be what wires do I connect to the transformer, because their is a red, black, and white wire I would like to know which of the three I would have to use I would appreciate it very much. and thaks.
Has anyone tried re-seating that heatsink? Removing it and reapplying some new thermal paste? I've got one with the exact same problem. Is E3 an overheating error? I understand the reasoning behind installing a fan, but there really isn't much airflow to that heatsink to begin with. A fan might not be necessary with some proper thermal paste and just a bigger opening for air flow.
Jason Rash no need to. The heat sink is going its job very well. Matter of fact, that's what lead me to the fix. The fact that the heat sink was getting so hot.
I was wondering what your machine was acting like when it started generating the E3 code. Mine is doing the same code however I have notice some different things happening when the code is generated. The 1st is the motor makes a strange groaning noise. With the cover off you can spin the tube pulley just a little and it will start spinning the tube. In the Maytag troubleshooting procedures this code shows a Diagnostic code of 2E. The Description says that the "Machine control is attempting to drive the motor but is not seeing any tach response.Visual check shows the motor is not moving.(Locked Hall Sensor fault) Some of the other things that I tried was treating the belt so that it was not slipping. That seemed to work for a while then it started acting up again. I removed the belt cleaned it very good and the pulleys. Re installed the belt and was able to do around 5 loads before the code came back. Do you know what the Hall Sensor is and where it is located? It is amazing how many people have had this problem and the amount of parts that have been thrown at the issue only to have it come back. Thanks for sharing would like to talk if this helps.
Jim Liles omg im sooo over this issue I cant believe maytag makes a code that they dont know how to fix,, put a new motor in.. does the same thing im only wondering if this guy is on to something,,, if you are reading this can you come install a fan in mine? also I bought a new motor still showing same error code a hall sensor is part of the motor, so thats bull. also some times on quick wash i can get thru a load with no 3e,,, so maybe it is over heating. You can not get a new control board at this time and heres the kicker,,, maytag model bought same time as mine but model number 9700 has spinner malfunction recall and those people get a new control board go figure.... I think we got screwed. I have been using my washer for over a year with this issue..lol making it work because I cant believe I only got 9 years out of this washer,, also they did the recall in sept 2005 and I bought mine in May 2005. didnt know this. I put the motor in myself but I dont think I can could install that fan... its been a few months now and Im wondering if your washer is good...?????doakley314
It would be running normally and then stop with the E3 error code. This would be accompanied with the annoying dinging telling me that the machine was broken.
This was an excellent video because my washer is doing the same thing, however I don't quite understand how you connected the transformer to the fan. Also your connections are not that visible on how you connected the transformer. Thanks Stan.
Transformer has 120v in. Connect the extension cord to this input. The transformed has low voltage out. Connect the fan to the two output leads. I hope that this helps.
i got one of these waters used a few weeks ago and it's been having the same problem. had a service technician come in and tell me that the board seemed to be overheating, and that ordering a new board would be over $450 (Cdn), and that it might need a new motor as well for about the same cost, not including installation costs (basically, it'd cost as much as just getting a new machine). the machine is already out of warranty, so your solution is worth a try, but i'm curious about the particular components you used (type of transformer, gauge of wire and how much you needed, and additionally, whether it would be better if the fan blew air onto the heatsink, or blew away from it)? i hope you can give a response soon, thanks! :)
also, is there a way to wire the fan so that it automatically activates when a load cycle on the machine is started, and deactivate when the cycle ends? that would be super helpful, if it's possible :)
Error code E3 also may mean you have overloaded the washer and the motor can't turn the hub when the clothes are soaked. Remove some clothes and restart the washer. The heatsink gets hot due to the overloading of the motor driver.
doakley314 Understood. That would have been an easy fix. As the motor gets older, it can handle less load and would draw more current which would overheat the motor driver in the controller module. The heat would also degrade the motor driver as well and cause it to fail.
Sorry for the delayed response. I’ve been out of the country. I looked at wiring it to the door lock so when the door locked the fan would come on. I decided that was too much work. The gauge wire is probably 14 gauge. It’s just an extension cord. I don’t remember the specifics on the transformer. Probably best to blow air on the heat sink. Like when it’s summer and you stand in front of the fan.
Thanks, Same thing for mine. But I am getting a 120v PC fan off EBay. I'm going to connect it to the motor load wiring and so the fan will automatic run when ever the motor is running. Thanks Again
I have the same problem and so i may need the exact things ur doing but ive never done stuff like that before where can i get stuff like that at is lowes amd home depot the place
Well that could mean that your just as stubborn as me... I'm still using mine too... but i can only use it once every 4 hrs... I'm all for trying what you suggested but i have to know that it works perfectly w/o getting that freaking 3E/E3 CODE again...
Watch your video... very informative but it started at the point that the covers were removed. Could you show thru video or tell me how to remove the top cover to access the water valves? Thanks, Don
The control board will also overheat if the motor and drum get hard to turn because water has leaked past the seals into the bearings and caused them to corrode. In that case the only solution is to replace the bearings before the board burns out.
I would never buy a washing machine that had all the "bells and whistles". My washer (KitchenAid) has five controls, all rotary knobs. Load size, temperature, extra rinse, fabric select (cottons and towels to delicate) and on/off. In twenty-two years I have had the repairman only once.
I just finished implementing your fix on my washer. We tested it the other day, and the heatsink was very hot. We ran the washer with the control panel hanging off and a desk fan blowing at the back of the panel. It ran through several cycles without the error.
I just finished cutting the hole and installing the fan and switch. I'm running a super wash load right now. So far so good!
Thanks a ton for this video!
Brandon Lee thanks for the feedback!
I have the exact same washer and exact same E3 error problem. I installed the fan and switch 2 days ago and have done 5-6 loads with no error. Than you for sharing this fix. THIS is what the internet is good for!
Thanks for sharing. Don't need the information at the moment, however you never know. Appreciate you taking the time to document and make it available.
Thanks for the comment. :-)
Thanks for your generous effort to show everyone how to fix the problem of overheating from the control board when it is running.
Have many great days.
Hien Le
My pleasure! 😀
This works. I did this to our machine and have not had a single error code since. It's been about 6 months. Thanks for the video.
Well, I finally replaced the washing machine. The fix got me 9 more years use out of it though. 🙂
The real issue is the solder connections on the back side of the heat sinks need to be re-soldered, it's a bit of a job to get to the back side of the panel, but that fixed my issue.
It might just be that the prox sensor on the motor is corroded or dirty. It's a little metal tab about 2 x 5 cm on the coil part of the motor.
I've been having the same problem with my washer it's the exact same model as yours this is a good video it's going to save everyone a lot of money but they don't have to pay for an overpriced appliance repair man
I had the exact same problem I removed the aluminum heatsink putting terminal paste behind the heatsink and haven't had a problem since
How did you do it does it simply pull out?
Does the MAH8700AWW have a coin trap or filter pump?
Great video, however, how do you access the control panel?
Wow! I finally did it!
It works!
After 2 years of running it with the control panel open, and a fan in front of the washer,,,
So yes, ! Thanks a lot
How many years since you did it,?
And do you still use it now? 2020? Does it still works?
I don’t remember how many years ago, but it’s like the Energizer Bunny. It keeps going and going. 🙂
Still going July 2022
Yep july 2022 same here, still running, 2-3 loads / week
Hi great video. About to run to Radio Shack and pick up the same parts. What I'm unsure about is how you connected the transformer, fan and extension chord together. Did the transformer plug into the other end of the extension chord directly?
Plug the transformer into the extension cord and connect the fan the the transformer output leads.
please help me my mah8700awm turn off. this dont turn on again nothing. is time to change for a new one. this working well for 12 years. The pcb is not more available. i can get a used one?
I have one question on this video and that would be what wires do I connect to the transformer, because their is a red, black, and white wire I would like to know which of the three I would have to use I would appreciate it very much.
and thaks.
Has anyone tried re-seating that heatsink? Removing it and reapplying some new thermal paste? I've got one with the exact same problem. Is E3 an overheating error? I understand the reasoning behind installing a fan, but there really isn't much airflow to that heatsink to begin with. A fan might not be necessary with some proper thermal paste and just a bigger opening for air flow.
Jason Rash no need to. The heat sink is going its job very well. Matter of fact, that's what lead me to the fix. The fact that the heat sink was getting so hot.
I was wondering what your machine was acting like when it started generating the E3 code. Mine is doing the same code however I have notice some different things happening when the code is generated.
The 1st is the motor makes a strange groaning noise. With the cover off you can spin the tube pulley just a little and it will start spinning the tube.
In the Maytag troubleshooting procedures this code shows a Diagnostic code of 2E.
The Description says that the "Machine control is attempting to drive the motor but is not seeing any tach response.Visual check shows the motor is not moving.(Locked Hall Sensor fault)
Some of the other things that I tried was treating the belt so that it was not slipping. That seemed to work for a while then it started acting up again. I removed the belt cleaned it very good and the pulleys. Re installed the belt and was able to do around 5 loads before the code came back.
Do you know what the Hall Sensor is and where it is located?
It is amazing how many people have had this problem and the amount of parts that have been thrown at the issue only to have it come back.
Thanks for sharing would like to talk if this helps.
Jim Liles omg im sooo over this issue I cant believe maytag makes a code that they dont know how to fix,, put a new motor in.. does the same thing im only wondering if this guy is on to something,,, if you are reading this can you come install a fan in mine? also I bought a new motor still showing same error code a hall sensor is part of the motor, so thats bull. also some times on quick wash i can get thru a load with no 3e,,, so maybe it is over heating. You can not get a new control board at this time and heres the kicker,,, maytag model bought same time as mine but model number 9700 has spinner malfunction recall and those people get a new control board go figure.... I think we got screwed. I have been using my washer for over a year with this issue..lol making it work because I cant believe I only got 9 years out of this washer,, also they did the recall in sept 2005 and I bought mine in May 2005. didnt know this. I put the motor in myself but I dont think I can could install that fan... its been a few months now and Im wondering if your washer is good...?????doakley314
It would be running normally and then stop with the E3 error code. This would be accompanied with the annoying dinging telling me that the machine was broken.
Christine Diaz Good so far. :-)
Very ingenious
This was an excellent video because my washer is doing the same thing, however I don't quite understand how you connected the transformer to the fan. Also your connections are not that visible on how you connected the transformer. Thanks Stan.
Transformer has 120v in. Connect the extension cord to this input. The transformed has low voltage out. Connect the fan to the two output leads. I hope that this helps.
i got one of these waters used a few weeks ago and it's been having the same problem. had a service technician come in and tell me that the board seemed to be overheating, and that ordering a new board would be over $450 (Cdn), and that it might need a new motor as well for about the same cost, not including installation costs (basically, it'd cost as much as just getting a new machine). the machine is already out of warranty, so your solution is worth a try, but i'm curious about the particular components you used (type of transformer, gauge of wire and how much you needed, and additionally, whether it would be better if the fan blew air onto the heatsink, or blew away from it)?
i hope you can give a response soon, thanks! :)
also, is there a way to wire the fan so that it automatically activates when a load cycle on the machine is started, and deactivate when the cycle ends? that would be super helpful, if it's possible :)
Error code E3 also may mean you have overloaded the washer and the motor
can't turn the hub when the clothes are soaked. Remove some clothes
and restart the washer. The heatsink gets hot due to the overloading of
the motor driver.
BJH2015 not mine. It is not a capacity overload issue.
doakley314 Understood. That would have been an easy fix. As the motor gets older, it can handle less load and would draw more current which would overheat the motor driver in the controller module. The heat would also degrade the motor driver as well and cause it to fail.
Sorry for the delayed response. I’ve been out of the country.
I looked at wiring it to the door lock so when the door locked the fan would come on. I decided that was too much work.
The gauge wire is probably 14 gauge. It’s just an extension cord.
I don’t remember the specifics on the transformer.
Probably best to blow air on the heat sink. Like when it’s summer and you stand in front of the fan.
hi there thanks for the info. i'm also wondering if you hapen to know how to put the machine into self test mode
Thanks, Same thing for mine. But I am getting a 120v PC fan off EBay. I'm going to connect it to the motor load wiring and so the fan will automatic run when ever the motor is running.
Thanks Again
I have the same problem and so i may need the exact things ur doing but ive never done stuff like that before where can i get stuff like that at is lowes amd home depot the place
Hi Regina...I'm in the same boat. I found all the items he mentioned in the vid on Amazon. I also saw that he got some of it at Radio Shack.
Thanks
Hello and thanks but before i do this to mine... is it still working and have you had to do anything else to it since?!
John Gordon still using it.
Well that could mean that your just as stubborn as me... I'm still using mine too... but i can only use it once every 4 hrs... I'm all for trying what you suggested but i have to know that it works perfectly w/o getting that freaking 3E/E3 CODE again...
I have done nothing else, and it’s still running great! 😀
Thanks for the response....
I just replace my pump and it still doesn't drain prior to spinning
Watch your video... very informative but it started at the point that the covers were removed. Could you show thru video or tell me how to remove the top cover to access the water valves? Thanks, Don
Don Ewals There are a couple of screws on the back (at the top). Remove those and slide the top back. That will reveal the screws to remove the panel.
Guessing a solder joint or two needs resoldered.
Brilliant. Is it still holding up?
Yep. I do need to put a new board on order. Maybe one will come available in the next few years. 😄
The control board will also overheat if the motor and drum get hard to turn because water has leaked past the seals into the bearings and caused them to corrode. In that case the only solution is to replace the bearings before the board burns out.
steve c yes you need to fix the bearings if you don’t due toó many thanks be damaged
I would never buy a washing machine that had all the "bells and whistles". My washer (KitchenAid) has five controls, all rotary knobs. Load size, temperature, extra rinse, fabric select (cottons and towels to delicate) and on/off. In twenty-two years I have had the repairman only once.
This machine was built by Samsung.
Have tha same problem 😡