Great video. It took a while thanks to a very stubborn bearing removal, but I finally got it done and it appears to be working well. It may be helpful to note somewhere that both large blue wires reconnect to the side of the outer tub because the connectors are close, side by side, and very hard to see during the reassembly. Thanks for the help!
Thank you. Your video was very informative and after finding out how much it would cost to have a company repair it. I feel I have nothing to lose by giving it a shot.
Thank for the video. Today, I replaced front and rear bearings on my Maytag Neptune 6500 washer. Believe it or not, it took 8 hours to complete. I didn't have a bearing puller, so I had to improvise. My wife is now a happy camper.
My Maytag washer was only 1 1/2 years old when the bearing started to leak water through it. I decided just to get rid of it and purchase a New washer which will never be another Maytag product for sure. Every time I see that stupid Maytag repair man TV commercial it brings back memories of what junk they now make and offer for sale. I went back to Homedepot where I purchased it from and complained to them. Jim
Jim- Unfortunately the Maytag still has as good of better overall performance as the other models. The way they position their tub puts more water on the seal but less pressure on the shaft and bearings so they end up with a slightly lower failure rate from what I have seen. It is hit or miss in terms how long the models will last but pretty much all of them will fail from the same cause.
I live in a small town that struggles a bit & was told yesterday by the local store I might as well toss out my old machine and just get a new one. I'd like to support local businesses but went by Home Depot for a planter after and saw a huge blow out sale on Washer and Dryers. Killer Prices and half what the local guy was selling for. I would pay a FAIR price for a repair but it always cost as much as buying a brand new item. Most people can't afford to replace all their appliance every few years. (Everything is going at the same time here probably because moving in I bought all new at the same time. I appreciate what you said in your Mission Statement. I don't feel I am dumb and love to learn new things and don't mind doing things myself either, but like you said maufacturers don't care. I am a recycler and hate to toss something out to go to some landfill I can fix and have it last a little longer. (My sister is still using my moms 45 year old Maytag Washer and Dryer). I just wanted to thank you for having a conscience as well providing what one needs to save some cash or should I say a chunk of cash and feel like they have more control of the situation. With everything having issues I felt totally rung over the coals before seeing this. I feel like I have a little power back.
Thank you. This is an interesting avenue and one that I think should be a model for what others can do in every corner of every city within this great nation. All of our problems can be solved with a humble and collaborative approach. Nothing will be solved if we do not communicate and if we do not stand up (even alone if necessary) to take a stand for what we feel is not right. That said, we need to not violate the rights and trust of others in the midst of our own protest. We need to state the problem, organize solutions and to the extent possible, implement those solutions (even on a small scale) and then tell everyone about what we are doing. Thank you for doing your part as well and for showing the appreciation here! Jerrod
hi jerrod, just a follow up on the sleeve i installed on the washer shaft. machine is still working great. should have epoxyed the thing inplace to keep on sliding on shaft just like you said. i was only hoping for several months to work till i can save enough money for a new machine but the thing is still working great. considering the machine is constantly running cause we have a business. im pleasantly surprised. thanks again.
That is great news and glad to hear it. I think this is the case with most of these repairs. I know the first one that I did lasted for over 7 years and the spider ended up breaking and broke the plastic housing so I found another machine that someone else was selling for cheap because they didn't know how to fix it and I got a machining machine for my old set and didn't have to replace the dryer! Jerrod
For sure. That is why I did it. These repairs basically render these machines as scrap because the repair costs are so high. The repair is not all that tough as you saw in the video.
I found some better tools and got it thanks. Some things are left out and the video makes it look a little easier than it is. But never the less I couldn't have done it without you = parts and video. So a BIG THANK YOU from the Lopez family!
Back in 2009 I fixed one by getting 2 old washers given to me .One working with a bad bearing tub, and another with a good tub with fried electronics made one good washer from the two. Still using it to this day.
Wow I've never seen someone work so hard at a bearing replacement. Being factory trained we never took the whole assembly out. I've replaced both bearings and the spider assemblies as well.
George W Good point George but a factory is much different than real life after a machine has been in service. If we all had blind bearing pullers then it would be doable to leave the rear 1/2 of the tank in the machine in some circumstances but there are plenty of hiccups that render that nearly impossible in a real life setting. Many people do not have the long extensions that would be needed to part the tank, the springs and hanging assembly would make it nearly impossible if not impossible in some cases to even get the corroded shaft out and several other factors. Reinstalling the shaft is also best done vertically to prevent seal damage. Good thoughts and thank you for the input for sure. Jerrod
It is important to set the plastic tub on something to support the edges. The more support you put around the edges, the less bounce you will get when hitting the shaft. It also needs to be held up so there is space for the drum to fall out. Spraying some penetrating oil down around shaft may help. Make sure to protect the end of the shaft when you beat on it. If you mushroom it, it will not slide through the bearings once it gets that far.
No, there are two bearings. The rubber boot usually comes off the front edge where it connects to the white sheet metal. I you feel around the edge of the boot on the very front, you will feel a lip that you can unfold and expose the part that is either clamped or glued to the front of the machine. If it is a clamp them remove the clamp. If it is glued then you need to work each of the glue spots loose.
Jerrod, I completed my bearing repair last Wednesday (7 May 2014). It was fairly close to your video with a few minor differences. Upon completion I did as one of the video's (not yours) indicated and put it in the spin mode. The machine started but failed to take up spinning, so I checked the basket and found it was very hard to turn. I then took the basked by hand and spun it until it moved fairly freely. I then put in in the spin cycle again and it didn't shut down that time, but still was a bit stiff. I continued several iterations of hand spinning it and then machine spinning and finally got it to the point that it spun freely. I was a bit worried for a time because of this problem but since have had no problems with spinning. The only issue remaining is a squeal that persists when in the wash mode. It's like either rubber on rubber or rubber on metal. It can easily be noted when spinning by hand and when spinning it by hand it is hard to determine exactly where it is coming from... I didn't use WD40 or Kroil on the shaft when reassembling because the shaft was in very good condition. I"m thinking about taking the back cover off and shooting Kroil on the splined section of the drive shaft. There is one more thing that happened upon reassembly. The front cover has a seal that was dirty and I took it out of it's slot to clean it. When I reassembled the tub in the cabinet (02:30 in the morning on the 7th) I had left this seal on the back patio where I was cleaning part and realized it too late. I was able to take the front cover off and re-install the seal and replace the cover while the tub remained in the cabinet (a bit difficult on the sides, but do-able). Other than the aforementioned, all went well. Thanks for your video and encouragement.
Anthony- The tightness was likely because the seal was making contact with the spider in the back of the tub. This does happen at times either just do to wear or lack of space or maybe not being fully seated. Sometimes people talk of a burned rubber smell which is from this interference. Not ideal but it does happen and I do not recommend doing anything about it provided it runs fine. The squeak noise is most likely the front rubber boot. I have had that problem before and found that repositioning it and lubricating it works. Jerrod
Jerrod, I spun the basket and sure enough the squealing was toward the front (i.e. the boot ) area. I sprayed Kroil in the area behind the hard plastic surround, as well as in front of it (the front of the boot). It didn't seem to affect the squeal much, if any. Where should I direct my lube?
It is slightly more difficult because of the control panel that has to be set aside but you should not have to disconnect the wiring while making the repair. Other than that, it is very similar inside.
Thanks for the reply Jerrod. I'm hesitant to try installing the bearings and seal only, in case I can't get them on, or paying the extra price and installing the rear tub assembly which have the bearings already in place. I've been looking on the internet to see if anyone has tried to do the repair bearings only replacement on my washer but haven't found one. I had hoped you had replaced a bearing set on that washer to let me know if it was feasible.
Jerrod, thanks for your quick response. I have watched your video several times and will do it again before taking on this task. One thing was not demonstrated during the video and that was the removal of the back bearing. Since both bearing are in place with the spacer in-between, what is the methodology you used to take out the back bearing? Since it is obviously the first you have to remove, just how did you do it?
Anthony- Just put some sort of bar, pipe, stick or something through the inside of the drum where the bearing sit and pound out the bearing. Make sure that you remove the clip or keeper (if there is one) before pounding out the bearing. Jerrod
Yes I did. you did a front load. so I am assuming by watching this vidio that all outer tub seal and bearing replacement is the same. I did not get that information from this vidio...I appoligize. FAV6800AWW was not listed for parts, but then again I probably missed it...my bad
Jarred, I have an LG front loading washer, model #WM2487HWM. The noise during the spin cycle is very loud and there is front to back play in the wash tub. From all I have read, the bearings are bad. When I called online parts stores to order bearings they discouraged me saying it was extremely difficult to install them without braking the plastic housing. They recommended the rear drum kit instead. Is it possible to do a bearing only install on my LG?
They are tough to get out. There are several videos where I show how to take these apart. You need to make sure the plastic drum is well supported when you pound them out so you don't get too much bounce in the plastic housing.
Hi, our Maytag washer is making loud noises and we just had someone to take a look at it. He said it was the bearing broke problem. We are thinking to try to repair the washer ourselves. The model of the washer is YMHWE301YG00. So do youhave the bearing kit for this model? Or do you think if we need to have someone else to come to take a look again to ensure it is really the bearing problem? Thanks.
I did finally get the bearing and seal out after about three beers. Just needed a little "extra persuasion".. Need now to find the bearings and seal that fits. Any suggestions where to look? Laundry is piling up!
Not sure which tube you are talking about. I think it may be the one on the water pump. It does come out the bottom although it may have looked like I took it out the top or maybe the breather hose came out the top.
I have watched this video and it seems like something I can do so I ordered the parts and got started but am now stuck trying to pound out the shaft any tips on how to get it out???
Thanks for all your significant efforts to give us an option to a outrageous repair cost for the bearing issue with our Maytag Neptune. I won't go that deep into the machine, but I hope you can make money selling the basic parts. I will buy a different brand and hope it lasts longer.
hi , jerrod, i put a sleeve . i bought a stainless steel sheet , cut it to the exact groove of shaft erosion and wraped it to its thickness. it was snug going in with lube but bearingrotates on it smooth. it works great now but i dont know for how long. ill buy a new one if it gives me trouble again. thanks again.
Good work! That sounds like it will work just fine. There is no movement on the shaft or at least there should not be! So, it should work fine long term. I would have put some sort of epoxy or adhesive to make sure the sleeve does not rotate or slip on the shaft. If it does then we could end up wearing the shaft again. That would likely only happen if the seal failed and the bearings started to get water and rust in them again.
My maytag neptune # MAH8700AWW has a glass door plus the control panel is on the front of the washer. Before jumping into this, I was wondering will this be more difficult to do?
My experience with the Cabrio suggest spending any time at all on them is futile and wasted. The Cabrio alone was sufficient to kill my opinion of Whirlpool equipment.
I have a Maytag Neptune MAH7500AWQ the I'm replacing the bearings and seal. I'm having difficulty removing the shaft from the outer tub. There doesn't appear to be a snap ring holding the outer bearing in place. Is the no snap ring on the model?
STUMPED? Finally found the time to start taking the washer apart. Ready to take the front of the washer off and find out there is no way to remove the rubber boot from the opening of the washer where the door opens. Do all washers have two bearings. Is there a chance that my model has only one and I it can be changed from the back. Please Help!!!!!
I need more information in order to answer the question. Are you asking if we have a kit for your model number? If so, what is the model number on your machine?
I have a Maytag MHWE300VF00. I ordered the bearing kit and hope to install the bearings next week. There is no retaining clip as shown in the video. Do I just beat the shaft and tub out of the bearings? I have it soaking in pen oil right now.
Kevin- Yes, it is rare that the retaining clip is there. Of course, if it is, the bearing won't come out without removing it but if it is not there then just proceed as if it is not. Jerrod
HomeTask I got it removed. The seal is the problem right now. It is really jammed in there. The forward bearing popped right out and the aft bearing was completely destroyed and the inner race was still attached to the shaft. I will see how it goes when I get the bearing kit. Thanks
HomeTask I guess I have that backwards but it depends on how you are looking at the drum. The bearing closest to the spider had the inner race still attached to the shaft.
Kevin F Yes, that is the one that normally comes apart first as it is closest to the water coming through the bad seal when it fails. You can beat or cut the race off the shaft just do not damage the shaft where the seal sits. A little damage under where the bearing sits will not matter when you reassemble but damage where the seal rides will not be good at all.
I'm working on a Maytag series 2000 model # MHWE200XW00 I've got it apart and I'm trying to remove the bearings. Are they removable? Can't seem to break them loose.
Jerrod, I about to get into a newer Neptune mode MAH7500AWW. It's controls are electronic and I'm wondering what if any differences will become apparent when I start the process of bearings/seal replacement?
Anthony, It will be the same mechanically even if they have updated the controls. They are getting easier to take apart and repair generally so take photos and let me know how it goes. Jerrod
I have a top load Neptune since I have never taken anything a part where do I start. It was told to me that the seal is non replaceable What can I do????
How do I know if your parts will fit my washer? There seems to be some variations in the bearing and seal designs from what I see in your videos. Also I don't see MHWE200XW00 listed.
One last question, before I get my hands dirty, the drain pump removal was clear in all respects other than the fact that the rubber variegated boot had, what appeared to be, a retaining strap which probably was screw tightened. Is that screw for that strap easily reachable from the opening in the back of the cabinet? One last thing, I ordered the parts through the your video and received what are listed by you as being the appropriate bearings, but there were two seals. I suppose this was to cover the possibility different production runs having the different seals, but because they were unboxed and there is no nomenclature on them there is now way of knowing which model they might be for... The seals are large (like larger in diameter than the back bearing, with the inner diameter hole being larger than even the inner diameter of the rear bearing. Unless the shaft balloons out at the point it goes through the bearing they couldn't possibly seal from water incursion. One seal has an inner diameter of 1.5 inches and is metal incased with a machined out surface, while the other is rubber/vinyl incased with an inner diameter 1 and 20 sixteenths. I want to be reassured that these seals are for a Maytag MAH7500AWW. Thanks for your assistance.
Anthony- The boot comes off through the lower front panel. Some of them have a clamp and some have a screw clamp. Either is easy to get to through the front panel. The seals are odd in these units so we do not always know which one you are going to need as the manufactures change them without notice during production. So, we send the two most common ones with this kit and ask you to match the correct one up and send the other one back. The inner seal diameter is nearly always larger than the inner diameter of the bearings as it create a natural shoulder stopping the bearings from floating towards the seal when assembled. The larger diameter surface for the seal also reduces the friction and heat the seal experiences during operation. Good luck with the repair. You can do it! Jerrod
Yes, the failure mode for 99% of the front load machines is a seal failure which causes the rear bearings to go out. The link to purchase the repair kit is just below the video in the description.
I was wondering if this procedure also applies to the Maytag SuperStack MLE2000AYW combination washer/dryer? Mine makes loud clunking noises when the washer is operating. No leakage though. The bottom portion looks like a Maytag Neptune washer.
Jerrod Sessler Thanks. I suspected it was similar. I still have one question. Could the bearings be responsible for an imbalance or clunking noise when the washer runs? It sounds out of balance.
Hello, I own a Frigidaire front load washer the model# is GLTF2940ES it won't spin out the water, or now even try to redo a load of wash to see if that would do anything it just flashes error but no code. Then it just shuts off.
I got my parts they are install... However, the three prong spindle on the back of the drum is broke. It is so bad off there is no repair for it. Do ya have a replacement part or what can I do... Thank you any help. It is a kenmore front loader.
Ginger- The three-arm part is called a spider and it is common that it breaks. Well, I would say that 5% - 10% of the machines end up with a cracked or broken spider. Many people have had luck getting the manufacture to send a free replacement sent to them but some are not. I am not sure what the trick is. Either way, you still need the repair kit. You can also try to find another used machine locally and steal parts from it. Jerrod
I purchased A kit a while ago from another company, all the seals no bearings, So my question is can I get just the bearings or do I need to get a complete kit. The kit # Is 8155 for model # MAH5500BWW Thanks Dave
we got the bearings changed plus the seal. the problem was the spider arm assembly with shaft. i guess its been wobling for too long and it caused an eroded groove on the shaft where the bigger bearing sat. i put a makeshift sleeve to even it out because the spider assembly plus shaft and stainless drum cost 350. i couldnt afford that one. it seems rigidly inplace now without wobble. for people who want to do this themselves maybe buy the parts cheap then call jerrod to install. doing it first time sucked epic.
As long as the shaft was clean and snug at the point where it passes through the seal then you will be fine. Good job on installing a sleeve. I would like to hear more about how you did that. Jerrod
What is the difference between the bearing and seal kit and just the bearings and seal? What does the kit give you extra? Thanks again for all the info.
I got your kit the bearings are in. Seems like you sent two seals. Neither looks like the one I took off MAH5500BWQ. I assume the black one goes in the plastic drum with the wishbone thing seated in. The metal one goes onto the shaft of the metal drum. Which direction a diagram would have been a big help.
Checking with Amy. She should be back with you soon. If other see this, please post to the chat group for the Washer Repair Google Group for this shown on our main order page as some of the comments on the specific videos can get lost.
HomeTask Thanks for getting back. I talked to Amy and she straightened me out. My old seal was so bad I had trouble identifying the replacement. I got it in and everything is running smooth. I don't think the machine was that quite brand new!
I am having a real heck of a time getting the seal out. It appears to be glued in. I am about to take a wire brush on a drill to it and hope to just clean it out that way. Then of course the bearings still need to come out. There was no clip like in the video but everything else looks the same. hmmm
I have a Maytag Neptune 5500 series. I have had to replace the wax motor on the door lock, repair the ic board (one of the resistors was fried) and clean out the drain tube on the front door seal. It's been working fairly well and it's not making any noise. However, we have noticed dark spots on our dark clothes after washing them (resembles some sort of light oil). Could this be caused by the rear seal and bearing?
I have a Frigidaire 2005 front load washer and have replaced the door latch box, verified the water intake valve has power....but now I have to reset the controls. I have tried too set the dial to control, all the way to the left, and suppressed the spin and soil level "Option" button simultaneously but have not been successful in having the machine reset could you please advise how to reset the machine?
Jerrod, belay my last - I watched the video again. I'm particularly concerned about extraction and insertion of the near bearings and I guess that why I missed that part of the video. The inner bearing comes out before the back/outer bearing. Sorry about that.
Thank you for your videos. I used a similar video to diagnose and repair my dryer. About how much is the bearing and seal kit for the type of Maytag you repaired in the video. And, I assume when the hearings go out it also causes the tub to be out of balance as well? Thanks again!
+keith craycraft - Sometimes they do go out of balance but the bearings really need to be disintegrated for that to happen. Usually they just howl loudly. The times when I see the bearings actually come apart is when the machine is used infrequently (stuff dries out and rusts) or when the use is excessive after the seal fails.
I was having the jet engine sound in the spin cycle, so my husband replaced the bearings and seal on our Maytag Neptune front load washer. Now it has the issue of the clothes come out soaking wet, and I feel as though the washer doesn't do the complete spin cycle. It spins, just not for a long period of time. Ideas?
That is a function of the operating system and has nothing to do with the bearings. Something may not be connected correctly or something or something else may be broken like the control board. Jerrod
HomeTask It started as soon as we completed the change out on the bearings and the seal. When my husband removed the drain pump, he did break off the "feet" so it can no longer latch into the base of the washer. Now it wants to lean, causing the hose from the tub to the pump to fold. I have put a block under the pump to try to help it stay upright so the drain from the tub to the pump is straight. It drains from the pump into my drain line properly. I am thinking of switching the wax motor - I have read that this is a common part to go bad and when it does usually shows in the door not locking or the washer not spinning. My door locked light does come on, but the machine is not doing a complete spin cycle. Do you have any experience with these?
kayeg422 I really do not have much experience with this failure mode but it is not expensive to get a new pump and a new latch switch and replace them.
i have a whirlpool washer duet (mod# GHW9100lw2) and there is a small trickle of water constant coming from the door gasket , is this something i can fix easy?
+bigdog77ism I have never heard of this sort of leak but it is of course possible. I would guess there are two possible issues. One would be that there is a slice or a cut in the rubber boot. That is less likely as it would probably drip on the inside and drip down onto the floor of the machine and eventually on the floor. The other issue is that there could be something wrong with the boot seal or the door surface. One of those could be marred or marked in a way that causes a leak. Sometimes the boot get dislodged when pulling clothes out and needs to be reset so it could be related to that also.
Where can I order the parts from? I have the washer disassembled, now I just need the parts... Sears wants to charge me almost 500.00 for just the parts, in addition, they only want to do the work which is another couple of hundreds bucks. Please if you can help me just let me know.
George W Thanks George. It is an honor to lead others in this repair for sure. I do think a blind puller would be great. But, I don't even have one. We get the bearings from a local vendor. We mainly use axis brand which is a high quality main stream bearing manufacturer producing bearings for many common applications. Jerrod
I just replaced the bearings on my maytag neptune MAH6500 front load and I think I have the black seal turned around on the inside of the tub . My kit didn't come with the white cap thing that you can use to pound it in place ,I was going by looks and it just didn't look right going in the other way . found that out after testing . couldn't tighten up pulley shaft not sticking out far enough , cheater pipe in middle loose . Took apart ,black seal burnt down flush to housing . so i lined up cheater pipe in middle tapped outer bearing in farther to tighten up against it now its perfect alignment left the seal the way it was for now . My questions are 1#= mine didn't have a snap ring or use the white plastic thing to hold bearings in ? 2#= What about the black seal should I replace it .or will it last a yr or two ? 3#= Is the cheater pipe in the middle suppose to be tight or ? cause now I'm getting some squeaking and louder noise it might be from the seal ? THANKS FOR YOUR VIDEOS AND HELP
The seal would be ruined if you ran it that way and the bearings will need to be replace if you have ran it much also. Sounds like the bearings were not fully seated on the first assembly? The white thing is a spacer and not needed. It does not hold the bearing in, it spaces the seal off the bearing so the seal remains in the correct position. The white space is not mandatory but certainly a good thing to include if you have it. Most of the units do not use a snap ring to retain the bearings. Let me know where you are at. I can send a replacement kit if you cover shipping. Jerrod
Steven, I wish I could be more help with the LG machines. I really do not know much about them unfortunately. If your near Seattle then I would like to tear into one. Or, maybe I can find one locally to open up. I have heard from appliance repair guys that they are really poor quality. Jerrod
I see why they sell the back housing the corrosion can be so bad by the seal so it will not fit properly and not work well even with sealer on it. plus looks to be some minor splits on yours where the metal is molded into the housing from corrosion expansion
Chuck B Cleaning up the surface and corrosion where the seal sits and then setting the seal in 100% silicone will work just fine. The outside of it does need to seal fully but that is not difficult to do with sealer. Be sure to let the sealer dry at least 24 hours before running the machine.
My problem is in the start column. All the lights light up; DOOR LOCK, ADD GARMENT,WASHING, FINAL SPIN. As a result the start button will not turn the machine on. Is there a schematic for the Kenmore model 44092?
i ordered part and want to return it...the lady on phone says whats receipt number however it was done via paypal and " appliance parts" sent no receipt...i returning parts and opening up a dispute on paypal
Hi Patrick - If you ordered it from us there you can return it no questions asked and we will credit 80% of the cost. If you ordered some parts from appliance parts then you will need to contact them for returns. Thanks, Jerrod
Most people knock it out on their own but you can prob get a local handyman to give you help with it. Look in the description of the video for where to get the repair kit. Expect to pay $100-$200 for labor depending upon where your located and the condition of your machine.
This is my 2nd Maytag with the same bearing issue, sadly the first washing machine had a recall ( I wasn't advised of this) and my repairman said it would cost $1,000.00 to fix and it would be cheaper to buy a new one, well i did that and now several years later the bearing is again shot and i am looking at another expensive repair. My question to you is do you have a list of tradesmen that can perform this repair for people? I am unable to do this stuff anymore and need a good honest repairman in my area (Jacksonville Florida) that will actually repair something and not just replace entire components - any recommendations ?
jim lopez Stick a shaft through the drum and pound the bearings out from the opposite side. Check to see if your model has a retaining clip holding the bearings in place.
jim lopez Only the out shell of the bearing is left. The inner fell apart and is my main problem. I decided to change the inner out so I took the rubber seal out and I have beat it 100 times and it wont budge.
That assumption is not well founded. We have a many people that have had great success very much due to being able to see us make the repair and going through the process of taking their machine apart and seeing how simple it is to put it back together.
Hello There- Hello there my name is Jerry I have a Stackable washer and dryer and the washer mine is not washing or spending I have a stacked washing machine the water dos not fill out at all just a half of it is fell with water not washing at all place tell me how to put a belt on a general electric-08-11-15-8:55-AM
I have a maytag 3000 series red front loader washer and the thing is shaking likecrazy and sounds like it is coming off the pedestal when it starts to spin. It is only 6 years old thus is crazy that maytag will not warranty this machine. If you go and buy anew maytag today.....they come with 10 year warranties
It either has bad bearings or the spider is broken. There is a remote chance it could be a broken shock or upper spring but not likely. The repair is not impossible and getting 6 years out of a front loader is pretty good. Continuing to run it will cause more damage. Get some help if needed and take it apart and fix it. Post photos and/or questions to my chat forum (see link when you purchase repair kit).
So disappointed in Maytag - I have a 2013 Bravos washing machine that if I had it repaired again (less than a year after I had it repaired the first time and just over two years since we brought it home) the cost is going to two times the purchase price. And because it is just out of warranty Maytag is doing nothing about it, even though they know there is a flaw in there design.
Patsy Sheldon So sorry Patsy. I agree which is why I created this repair kit and training videos. I don't see a path to solve this other than maybe designing a new washing machine and attempting to manufacture and sell it :-) Jerrod
Why would you direct people to remove the tub on a Maytag Neptune!? That is careless and will cause DIY's to have way more problems. You also don't show the different seal options for these washers which is critical to putting one of these back together. Very poor video demonstration.
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Great video. It took a while thanks to a very stubborn bearing removal, but I finally got it done and it appears to be working well. It may be helpful to note somewhere that both large blue wires reconnect to the side of the outer tub because the connectors are close, side by side, and very hard to see during the reassembly. Thanks for the help!
Thank you. Your video was very informative and after finding out how much it would cost to have a company repair it. I feel I have nothing to lose by giving it a shot.
Thanks to this video, my Maytag washer runs like new again. I ordered from here the seal and bearings and installed it myself.
Thank for the video. Today, I replaced front and rear bearings on my Maytag Neptune 6500 washer. Believe it or not, it took 8 hours to complete. I didn't have a bearing puller, so I had to improvise. My wife is now a happy camper.
Huge help with our bearing change.
Really glad it was helpful. Nice to see so many saving a bunch of money and learning to do new things!
Jerrod
Good suggestion Michael. Glad it worked out for you. Thanks for contributing.
My Maytag washer was only 1 1/2 years old when the bearing started to leak water through it. I decided just to get rid of it and purchase a New washer which will never be another Maytag product for sure. Every time I see that stupid Maytag repair man TV commercial it brings back memories of what junk they now make and offer for sale. I went back to Homedepot where I purchased it from and complained to them.
Jim
Jim-
Unfortunately the Maytag still has as good of better overall performance as the other models. The way they position their tub puts more water on the seal but less pressure on the shaft and bearings so they end up with a slightly lower failure rate from what I have seen. It is hit or miss in terms how long the models will last but pretty much all of them will fail from the same cause.
I live in a small town that struggles a bit & was told yesterday by the local store I might as well toss out my old machine and just get a new one. I'd like to support local businesses but went by Home Depot for a planter after and saw a huge blow out sale on Washer and Dryers. Killer Prices and half what the local guy was selling for. I would pay a FAIR price for a repair but it always cost as much as buying a brand new item.
Most people can't afford to replace all their appliance every few years. (Everything is going at the same time here probably because moving in I bought all new at the same time.
I appreciate what you said in your Mission Statement. I don't feel I am dumb and love to learn new things and don't mind doing things myself either, but like you said maufacturers don't care.
I am a recycler and hate to toss something out to go to some landfill I can fix and have it last a little longer. (My sister is still using my moms 45 year old Maytag Washer and Dryer).
I just wanted to thank you for having a conscience as well providing what one needs to save some cash or should I say a chunk of cash and feel like they have more control of the situation. With everything having issues I felt totally rung over the coals before seeing this. I feel like I have a little power back.
Thank you. This is an interesting avenue and one that I think should be a model for what others can do in every corner of every city within this great nation. All of our problems can be solved with a humble and collaborative approach. Nothing will be solved if we do not communicate and if we do not stand up (even alone if necessary) to take a stand for what we feel is not right. That said, we need to not violate the rights and trust of others in the midst of our own protest. We need to state the problem, organize solutions and to the extent possible, implement those solutions (even on a small scale) and then tell everyone about what we are doing. Thank you for doing your part as well and for showing the appreciation here!
Jerrod
hi jerrod, just a follow up on the sleeve i installed on the washer shaft. machine is still working great. should have epoxyed the thing inplace to keep on sliding on shaft just like you said. i was only hoping for several months to work till i can save enough money for a new machine but the thing is still working great. considering the machine is constantly running cause we have a business. im pleasantly surprised. thanks again.
That is great news and glad to hear it. I think this is the case with most of these repairs. I know the first one that I did lasted for over 7 years and the spider ended up breaking and broke the plastic housing so I found another machine that someone else was selling for cheap because they didn't know how to fix it and I got a machining machine for my old set and didn't have to replace the dryer!
Jerrod
For sure. That is why I did it. These repairs basically render these machines as scrap because the repair costs are so high. The repair is not all that tough as you saw in the video.
I found some better tools and got it thanks. Some things are left out and the video makes it look a little easier than it is. But never the less I couldn't have done it without you = parts and video. So a BIG THANK YOU from the Lopez family!
Back in 2009 I fixed one by getting 2 old washers given to me .One working with a bad bearing tub, and another with a good tub with fried electronics made one good washer from the two. Still using it to this day.
Wow I've never seen someone work so hard at a bearing replacement. Being factory trained we never took the whole assembly out. I've replaced both bearings and the spider assemblies as well.
George W Good point George but a factory is much different than real life after a machine has been in service. If we all had blind bearing pullers then it would be doable to leave the rear 1/2 of the tank in the machine in some circumstances but there are plenty of hiccups that render that nearly impossible in a real life setting. Many people do not have the long extensions that would be needed to part the tank, the springs and hanging assembly would make it nearly impossible if not impossible in some cases to even get the corroded shaft out and several other factors. Reinstalling the shaft is also best done vertically to prevent seal damage. Good thoughts and thank you for the input for sure.
Jerrod
I did all mine in the field, but you are correct having an arsenal on tools do get the job done.
It is important to set the plastic tub on something to support the edges. The more support you put around the edges, the less bounce you will get when hitting the shaft. It also needs to be held up so there is space for the drum to fall out. Spraying some penetrating oil down around shaft may help. Make sure to protect the end of the shaft when you beat on it. If you mushroom it, it will not slide through the bearings once it gets that far.
No, there are two bearings. The rubber boot usually comes off the front edge where it connects to the white sheet metal. I you feel around the edge of the boot on the very front, you will feel a lip that you can unfold and expose the part that is either clamped or glued to the front of the machine. If it is a clamp them remove the clamp. If it is glued then you need to work each of the glue spots loose.
Found it!! It was a thin wire that went around it with a small spring connected to it. Thanks
Jerrod,
I completed my bearing repair last Wednesday (7 May 2014). It was fairly close to your video with a few minor differences. Upon completion I did as one of the video's (not yours) indicated and put it in the spin mode. The machine started but failed to take up spinning, so I checked the basket and found it was very hard to turn. I then took the basked by hand and spun it until it moved fairly freely. I then put in in the spin cycle again and it didn't shut down that time, but still was a bit stiff. I continued several iterations of hand spinning it and then machine spinning and finally got it to the point that it spun freely. I was a bit worried for a time because of this problem but since have had no problems with spinning. The only issue remaining is a squeal that persists when in the wash mode. It's like either rubber on rubber or rubber on metal. It can easily be noted when spinning by hand and when spinning it by hand it is hard to determine exactly where it is coming from... I didn't use WD40 or Kroil on the shaft when reassembling because the shaft was in very good condition. I"m thinking about taking the back cover off and shooting Kroil on the splined section of the drive shaft. There is one more thing that happened upon reassembly. The front cover has a seal that was dirty and I took it out of it's slot to clean it. When I reassembled the tub in the cabinet (02:30 in the morning on the 7th) I had left this seal on the back patio where I was cleaning part and realized it too late. I was able to take the front cover off and re-install the seal and replace the cover while the tub remained in the cabinet (a bit difficult on the sides, but do-able). Other than the aforementioned, all went well. Thanks for your video and encouragement.
Anthony-
The tightness was likely because the seal was making contact with the spider in the back of the tub. This does happen at times either just do to wear or lack of space or maybe not being fully seated. Sometimes people talk of a burned rubber smell which is from this interference. Not ideal but it does happen and I do not recommend doing anything about it provided it runs fine. The squeak noise is most likely the front rubber boot. I have had that problem before and found that repositioning it and lubricating it works.
Jerrod
HomeTask
This is outstanding. Thanks for the great tutorial !
Jerrod,
I spun the basket and sure enough the squealing was toward the front (i.e. the boot ) area. I sprayed Kroil in the area behind the hard plastic surround, as well as in front of it (the front of the boot). It didn't seem to affect the squeal much, if any. Where should I direct my lube?
It is slightly more difficult because of the control panel that has to be set aside but you should not have to disconnect the wiring while making the repair. Other than that, it is very similar inside.
Thanks for the reply Jerrod. I'm hesitant to try installing the bearings and seal only, in case I can't get them on, or paying the extra price and installing the rear tub assembly which have the bearings already in place. I've been looking on the internet to see if anyone has tried to do the repair bearings only replacement on my washer but haven't found one. I had hoped you had replaced a bearing set on that washer to let me know if it was feasible.
Jerrod, thanks for your quick response. I have watched your video several times and will do it again before taking on this task. One thing was not demonstrated during the video and that was the removal of the back bearing. Since both bearing are in place with the spacer in-between, what is the methodology you used to take out the back bearing? Since it is obviously the first you have to remove, just how did you do it?
Anthony-
Just put some sort of bar, pipe, stick or something through the inside of the drum where the bearing sit and pound out the bearing. Make sure that you remove the clip or keeper (if there is one) before pounding out the bearing.
Jerrod
Yes I did. you did a front load. so I am assuming by watching this vidio that all outer tub seal and bearing replacement is the same. I did not get that information from this vidio...I appoligize.
FAV6800AWW was not listed for parts, but then again I probably missed it...my bad
Jarred, I have an LG front loading washer, model #WM2487HWM. The noise during the spin cycle is very loud and there is front to back play in the wash tub. From all I have read, the bearings are bad. When I called online parts stores to order bearings they discouraged me saying it was extremely difficult to install them without braking the plastic housing. They recommended the rear drum kit instead. Is it possible to do a bearing only install on my LG?
At the weep hole my machine has metal shavings. Does it mean that the bearing went bad! I assume it does.
They are tough to get out. There are several videos where I show how to take these apart. You need to make sure the plastic drum is well supported when you pound them out so you don't get too much bounce in the plastic housing.
Hi, our Maytag washer is making loud noises and we just had someone to take a look at it. He said it was the bearing broke problem. We are thinking to try to repair the washer ourselves. The model of the washer is YMHWE301YG00. So do youhave the bearing kit for this model? Or do you think if we need to have someone else to come to take a look again to ensure it is really the bearing problem? Thanks.
I did finally get the bearing and seal out after about three beers. Just needed a little "extra persuasion".. Need now to find the bearings and seal that fits. Any suggestions where to look? Laundry is piling up!
Not sure which tube you are talking about. I think it may be the one on the water pump. It does come out the bottom although it may have looked like I took it out the top or maybe the breather hose came out the top.
I have watched this video and it seems like something I can do so I ordered the parts and got started but am now stuck trying to pound out the shaft any tips on how to get it out???
Thanks for all your significant efforts to give us an option to a outrageous repair cost for the bearing issue with our Maytag Neptune. I won't go that deep into the machine, but I hope you can make money selling the basic parts. I will buy a different brand and hope it lasts longer.
Joe - Many of the new machines are needing repair kits within a year or two. I would get a handy friend to help you make the repair.
hi , jerrod, i put a sleeve . i bought a stainless steel sheet , cut it to the exact groove of shaft erosion and wraped it to its thickness. it was snug going in with lube but bearingrotates on it smooth. it works great now but i dont know for how long. ill buy a new one if it gives me trouble again. thanks again.
Good work! That sounds like it will work just fine. There is no movement on the shaft or at least there should not be! So, it should work fine long term. I would have put some sort of epoxy or adhesive to make sure the sleeve does not rotate or slip on the shaft. If it does then we could end up wearing the shaft again. That would likely only happen if the seal failed and the bearings started to get water and rust in them again.
Always helps to have a dog in the video.
My maytag neptune # MAH8700AWW has a glass door plus the control panel is on the front of the washer. Before jumping into this, I was wondering will this be more difficult to do?
Have you seen the new Cabrio, Oasis and Bravos tub removal tool JTP2014B?? It's awesome must for your truck!
My experience with the Cabrio suggest spending any time at all on them is futile and wasted. The Cabrio alone was sufficient to kill my opinion of Whirlpool equipment.
Thanks ... You guys ROCK...
I have a Maytag Neptune MAH7500AWQ the I'm replacing the bearings and seal. I'm having difficulty removing the shaft from the outer tub. There doesn't appear to be a snap ring holding the outer bearing in place. Is the no snap ring on the model?
STUMPED? Finally found the time to start taking the washer apart. Ready to take the front of the washer off and find out there is no way to remove the rubber boot from the opening of the washer where the door opens. Do all washers have two bearings. Is there a chance that my model has only one and I it can be changed from the back. Please Help!!!!!
Thank you we were able to get it apart.
I need more information in order to answer the question. Are you asking if we have a kit for your model number? If so, what is the model number on your machine?
How do you take the rubber tube out as you seem to have taken it from the top of the machine and not at the bottom?
I have a Maytag MHWE300VF00. I ordered the bearing kit and hope to install the bearings next week. There is no retaining clip as shown in the video. Do I just beat the shaft and tub out of the bearings? I have it soaking in pen oil right now.
Kevin-
Yes, it is rare that the retaining clip is there. Of course, if it is, the bearing won't come out without removing it but if it is not there then just proceed as if it is not.
Jerrod
HomeTask I got it removed. The seal is the problem right now. It is really jammed in there. The forward bearing popped right out and the aft bearing was completely destroyed and the inner race was still attached to the shaft. I will see how it goes when I get the bearing kit. Thanks
HomeTask I guess I have that backwards but it depends on how you are looking at the drum. The bearing closest to the spider had the inner race still attached to the shaft.
Kevin F Yes, that is the one that normally comes apart first as it is closest to the water coming through the bad seal when it fails. You can beat or cut the race off the shaft just do not damage the shaft where the seal sits. A little damage under where the bearing sits will not matter when you reassemble but damage where the seal rides will not be good at all.
I'm working on a Maytag series 2000 model # MHWE200XW00 I've got it apart and I'm trying to remove the bearings. Are they removable? Can't seem to break them loose.
Jerrod, I about to get into a newer Neptune mode MAH7500AWW. It's controls are electronic and I'm wondering what if any differences will become apparent when I start the process of bearings/seal replacement?
Anthony,
It will be the same mechanically even if they have updated the controls. They are getting easier to take apart and repair generally so take photos and let me know how it goes.
Jerrod
I have a top load Neptune since I have never taken anything a part where do I start. It was told to me that the seal is non replaceable What can I do????
How do I know if your parts will fit my washer? There seems to be some variations in the bearing and seal designs from what I see in your videos. Also I don't see MHWE200XW00 listed.
One last question, before I get my hands dirty, the drain pump removal was clear in all respects other than the fact that the rubber variegated boot had, what appeared to be, a retaining strap which probably was screw tightened. Is that screw for that strap easily reachable from the opening in the back of the cabinet? One last thing, I ordered the parts through the your video and received what are listed by you as being the appropriate bearings, but there were two seals. I suppose this was to cover the possibility different production runs having the different seals, but because they were unboxed and there is no nomenclature on them there is now way of knowing which model they might be for... The seals are large (like larger in diameter than the back bearing, with the inner diameter hole being larger than even the inner diameter of the rear bearing. Unless the shaft balloons out at the point it goes through the bearing they couldn't possibly seal from water incursion. One seal has an inner diameter of 1.5 inches and is metal incased with a machined out surface, while the other is rubber/vinyl incased with an inner diameter 1 and 20 sixteenths. I want to be reassured that these seals are for a Maytag MAH7500AWW. Thanks for your assistance.
Anthony-
The boot comes off through the lower front panel. Some of them have a clamp and some have a screw clamp. Either is easy to get to through the front panel.
The seals are odd in these units so we do not always know which one you are going to need as the manufactures change them without notice during production. So, we send the two most common ones with this kit and ask you to match the correct one up and send the other one back.
The inner seal diameter is nearly always larger than the inner diameter of the bearings as it create a natural shoulder stopping the bearings from floating towards the seal when assembled. The larger diameter surface for the seal also reduces the friction and heat the seal experiences during operation.
Good luck with the repair. You can do it!
Jerrod
Great tutorial
My washer has gotten REALLY loud, especially during the spin cycle. Could this be my problem?
there is a link to the site to purchase the kit right under the video above.
Yes, the failure mode for 99% of the front load machines is a seal failure which causes the rear bearings to go out. The link to purchase the repair kit is just below the video in the description.
I was wondering if this procedure also applies to the Maytag SuperStack MLE2000AYW combination washer/dryer? Mine makes loud clunking noises when the washer is operating. No leakage though. The bottom portion looks like a Maytag Neptune washer.
Marty-
The process is going to be similar but different because of the combo unit. You will have open it up and check it out.
Jerrod
Jerrod Sessler Thanks. I suspected it was similar. I still have one question. Could the bearings be responsible for an imbalance or clunking noise when the washer runs? It sounds out of balance.
have matag neptune TL FAV6800AWW. need to know how to replace seal and bearing on outer tub. help....
Jerrod,
By the way, where do I send the seal I didn't use to for the refund?
Hello, I own a Frigidaire front load washer the model# is GLTF2940ES it won't spin out the water, or now even try to redo a load of wash to see if that would do anything it just flashes error but no code. Then it just shuts off.
dipping a belt in hot water for 15 seconds helps install the belt as well. Don't burn yourself.
I got my parts they are install... However, the three prong spindle on the back of the drum is broke. It is so bad off there is no repair for it. Do ya have a replacement part or what can I do... Thank you any help. It is a kenmore front loader.
Ginger-
The three-arm part is called a spider and it is common that it breaks. Well, I would say that 5% - 10% of the machines end up with a cracked or broken spider. Many people have had luck getting the manufacture to send a free replacement sent to them but some are not. I am not sure what the trick is. Either way, you still need the repair kit. You can also try to find another used machine locally and steal parts from it.
Jerrod
I purchased A kit a while ago from another company, all the seals no bearings, So my question is can I get just the bearings or do I need to get a complete kit. The kit # Is 8155 for
model # MAH5500BWW
Thanks
Dave
we got the bearings changed plus the seal. the problem was the spider arm assembly with shaft. i guess its been wobling for too long and it caused an eroded groove on the shaft where the bigger bearing sat. i put a makeshift sleeve to even it out because the spider assembly plus shaft and stainless drum cost 350. i couldnt afford that one. it seems rigidly inplace now without wobble. for people who want to do this themselves maybe buy the parts cheap then call jerrod to install. doing it first time sucked epic.
As long as the shaft was clean and snug at the point where it passes through the seal then you will be fine. Good job on installing a sleeve. I would like to hear more about how you did that.
Jerrod
@12:04 LOL scared the crap out of me.. I nearly built a brick house in my pants...
It all depends on the model. I show your model number to be a HE2 or our 8150 kit. We have over 7 different kits
dude youre Awesome Enjoyed this video
well that settles it!! Time for a NEW one!!
Thank you!
Bob - did you watch the video? I walk through the steps on how to do the repair.
What is the difference between the bearing and seal kit and just the bearings and seal? What does the kit give you extra? Thanks again for all the info.
The kit includes the bearings and the seal. They are the same.
I got your kit the bearings are in. Seems like you sent two seals. Neither looks like the one I took off MAH5500BWQ. I assume the black one goes in the plastic drum with the wishbone thing seated in. The metal one goes onto the shaft of the metal drum. Which direction a diagram would have been a big help.
Checking with Amy. She should be back with you soon. If other see this, please post to the chat group for the Washer Repair Google Group for this shown on our main order page as some of the comments on the specific videos can get lost.
HomeTask
Thanks for getting back. I talked to Amy and she straightened me out. My old seal was so bad I had trouble identifying the replacement. I got it in and everything is running smooth. I don't think the machine was that quite brand new!
I am having a real heck of a time getting the seal out. It appears to be glued in. I am about to take a wire brush on a drill to it and hope to just clean it out that way. Then of course the bearings still need to come out. There was no clip like in the video but everything else looks the same. hmmm
Kevin-
Yes, just get aggressive with the seal and bearings to get them out. They will come out but can be objective to it!
Regards,
Jerrod
I have a Maytag Neptune 5500 series. I have had to replace the wax motor on the door lock, repair the ic board (one of the resistors was fried) and clean out the drain tube on the front door seal. It's been working fairly well and it's not making any noise. However, we have noticed dark spots on our dark clothes after washing them (resembles some sort of light oil). Could this be caused by the rear seal and bearing?
I have a Frigidaire 2005 front load washer and have replaced the door latch box, verified the water intake valve has power....but now I have to reset the controls. I have tried too set the dial to control, all the way to the left, and suppressed the spin and soil level "Option" button simultaneously but have not been successful in having the machine reset could you please advise how to reset the machine?
Jerrod, belay my last - I watched the video again. I'm particularly concerned about extraction and insertion of the near bearings and I guess that why I missed that part of the video. The inner bearing comes out before the back/outer bearing. Sorry about that.
The only thing that I could ever figure out the sleeve was for is an assembly aid in the factory. It isn't actually necessary in the final assembly.
Thank you for your videos. I used a similar video to diagnose and repair my dryer. About how much is the bearing and seal kit for the type of Maytag you repaired in the video. And, I assume when the hearings go out it also causes the tub to be out of balance as well? Thanks again!
+keith craycraft - Sometimes they do go out of balance but the bearings really need to be disintegrated for that to happen. Usually they just howl loudly. The times when I see the bearings actually come apart is when the machine is used infrequently (stuff dries out and rusts) or when the use is excessive after the seal fails.
+keith craycraft - You can get a repair kit here: www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx
I was having the jet engine sound in the spin cycle, so my husband replaced the bearings and seal on our Maytag Neptune front load washer. Now it has the issue of the clothes come out soaking wet, and I feel as though the washer doesn't do the complete spin cycle. It spins, just not for a long period of time. Ideas?
That is a function of the operating system and has nothing to do with the bearings. Something may not be connected correctly or something or something else may be broken like the control board.
Jerrod
HomeTask It started as soon as we completed the change out on the bearings and the seal. When my husband removed the drain pump, he did break off the "feet" so it can no longer latch into the base of the washer. Now it wants to lean, causing the hose from the tub to the pump to fold. I have put a block under the pump to try to help it stay upright so the drain from the tub to the pump is straight. It drains from the pump into my drain line properly. I am thinking of switching the wax motor - I have read that this is a common part to go bad and when it does usually shows in the door not locking or the washer not spinning. My door locked light does come on, but the machine is not doing a complete spin cycle. Do you have any experience with these?
kayeg422 I really do not have much experience with this failure mode but it is not expensive to get a new pump and a new latch switch and replace them.
i have a whirlpool washer duet (mod# GHW9100lw2) and there is a small trickle of water constant coming from the door gasket , is this something i can fix easy?
+bigdog77ism I have never heard of this sort of leak but it is of course possible. I would guess there are two possible issues. One would be that there is a slice or a cut in the rubber boot. That is less likely as it would probably drip on the inside and drip down onto the floor of the machine and eventually on the floor. The other issue is that there could be something wrong with the boot seal or the door surface. One of those could be marred or marked in a way that causes a leak. Sometimes the boot get dislodged when pulling clothes out and needs to be reset so it could be related to that also.
Where can I order the parts from? I have the washer disassembled, now I just need the parts... Sears wants to charge me almost 500.00 for just the parts, in addition, they only want to do the work which is another couple of hundreds bucks. Please if you can help me just let me know.
Ginger - head over to: www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx
on my last, please correct the last seal inner diameter to read 1 and 15/16. Sorry about that. Again thanks for your patience.
Just wanted to say nice video though. A blind bearing puller will save a lot of work. Curious where did you get the bearings?
George W Thanks George. It is an honor to lead others in this repair for sure. I do think a blind puller would be great. But, I don't even have one. We get the bearings from a local vendor. We mainly use axis brand which is a high quality main stream bearing manufacturer producing bearings for many common applications.
Jerrod
I had just found out that Harbor freight carries a blind bearing puller kit. It may be worth a look for you.
I just replaced the bearings on my maytag neptune MAH6500 front load and I think I have the black seal turned around on the inside of the tub . My kit didn't come with the white cap thing that you can use to pound it in place ,I was going by looks and it just didn't look right going in the other way . found that out after testing . couldn't tighten up pulley shaft not sticking out far enough , cheater pipe in middle loose . Took apart ,black seal burnt down flush to housing . so i lined up cheater pipe in middle tapped outer bearing in farther to tighten up against it now its perfect alignment left the seal the way it was for now . My questions are 1#= mine didn't have a snap ring or use the white plastic thing to hold bearings in ? 2#= What about the black seal should I replace it .or will it last a yr or two ? 3#= Is the cheater pipe in the middle suppose to be tight or ? cause now I'm getting some squeaking and louder noise it might be from the seal ? THANKS FOR YOUR VIDEOS AND HELP
The seal would be ruined if you ran it that way and the bearings will need to be replace if you have ran it much also. Sounds like the bearings were not fully seated on the first assembly?
The white thing is a spacer and not needed. It does not hold the bearing in, it spaces the seal off the bearing so the seal remains in the correct position. The white space is not mandatory but certainly a good thing to include if you have it.
Most of the units do not use a snap ring to retain the bearings.
Let me know where you are at. I can send a replacement kit if you cover shipping.
Jerrod
Steven,
I wish I could be more help with the LG machines. I really do not know much about them unfortunately. If your near Seattle then I would like to tear into one. Or, maybe I can find one locally to open up. I have heard from appliance repair guys that they are really poor quality.
Jerrod
I see why they sell the back housing the corrosion can be so bad by the seal so it will not fit properly and not work well even with sealer on it. plus looks to be some minor splits on yours where the metal is molded into the housing from corrosion expansion
Chuck B Cleaning up the surface and corrosion where the seal sits and then setting the seal in 100% silicone will work just fine. The outside of it does need to seal fully but that is not difficult to do with sealer. Be sure to let the sealer dry at least 24 hours before running the machine.
My problem is in the start column. All the lights light up; DOOR LOCK, ADD GARMENT,WASHING, FINAL SPIN. As a result the start button will not turn the machine on. Is there a schematic for the Kenmore model 44092?
+Loretta Healy If you are in a pinch you could bypass the start switch fairly easily until you get a new one.
I HAVE A LG 2487 FRONT LOAD WASHER AND GET ERROR "FE" SAYS WATER VALVE THAT IS FAULTY. HOW DO I FIX IT?
i ordered part and want to return it...the lady on phone says whats receipt number however it was done via paypal and " appliance parts" sent no receipt...i returning parts and opening up a dispute on paypal
Hi Patrick - If you ordered it from us there you can return it no questions asked and we will credit 80% of the cost. If you ordered some parts from appliance parts then you will need to contact them for returns.
Thanks,
Jerrod
The softener does not empty on my Maytag Neptune front loader with the glass door - how do I fix it?
+Steve Pepper buy speed queen
What would be the cost to have this done? What are the parts worth?
Most people knock it out on their own but you can prob get a local handyman to give you help with it. Look in the description of the video for where to get the repair kit. Expect to pay $100-$200 for labor depending upon where your located and the condition of your machine.
Thanks
hi.....anyone can tell me about timer problem in MAYTAG 6215 front load washer
This is my 2nd Maytag with the same bearing issue, sadly the first washing machine had a recall ( I wasn't advised of this) and my repairman said it would cost $1,000.00 to fix and it would be cheaper to buy a new one, well i did that and now several years later the bearing is again shot and i am looking at another expensive repair. My question to you is do you have a list of tradesmen that can perform this repair for people? I am unable to do this stuff anymore and need a good honest repairman in my area (Jacksonville Florida) that will actually repair something and not just replace entire components - any recommendations ?
How do you get the back bearings out?
jim lopez Stick a shaft through the drum and pound the bearings out from the opposite side. Check to see if your model has a retaining clip holding the bearings in place.
jim lopez Only the out shell of the bearing is left. The inner fell apart and is my main problem. I decided to change the inner out so I took the rubber seal out and I have beat it 100 times and it wont budge.
gracias por el dvd
it dosnt leak out of machine it will pool up in the drum of washer
Are you getting ready to rip your washer apart?
It's never going to get back together right
That assumption is not well founded. We have a many people that have had great success very much due to being able to see us make the repair and going through the process of taking their machine apart and seeing how simple it is to put it back together.
Hello There- Hello there my name is Jerry I have a Stackable washer and dryer and the washer mine is not washing or spending I have a stacked washing machine the water dos not fill out at all just a half of it is fell with water not washing at all place tell me how to put a belt on a general electric-08-11-15-8:55-AM
koouyytt
LG washer WM1814CW with error code OE will not drain
I have a maytag 3000 series red front loader washer and the thing is shaking likecrazy and sounds like it is coming off the pedestal when it starts to spin. It is only 6 years old thus is crazy that maytag will not warranty this machine. If you go and buy anew maytag today.....they come with 10 year warranties
It either has bad bearings or the spider is broken. There is a remote chance it could be a broken shock or upper spring but not likely. The repair is not impossible and getting 6 years out of a front loader is pretty good. Continuing to run it will cause more damage. Get some help if needed and take it apart and fix it. Post photos and/or questions to my chat forum (see link when you purchase repair kit).
So disappointed in Maytag - I have a 2013 Bravos washing machine that if I had it repaired again (less than a year after I had it repaired the first time and just over two years since we brought it home) the cost is going to two times the purchase price. And because it is just out of warranty Maytag is doing nothing about it, even though they know there is a flaw in there design.
Patsy Sheldon So sorry Patsy. I agree which is why I created this repair kit and training videos. I don't see a path to solve this other than maybe designing a new washing machine and attempting to manufacture and sell it :-)
Jerrod
Yea, that is not a good sign. Bearings bad for sure.
Why would you direct people to remove the tub on a Maytag Neptune!? That is careless and will cause DIY's to have way more problems. You also don't show the different seal options for these washers which is critical to putting one of these back together. Very poor video demonstration.
I'm scared.