woodworking - Setting Jointer Knives
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- The this woodworking tutorial, I'll show you how to set up your jointer blades correctly.
Setting Jointer knives correctly is critical in getting the tool set correctly in order to make sure boards are planed straight and even.
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I am so glad I found your video. It's a long story but my father passed away in 2000 and left his Craftsman tools to one of my older brothers I set up my own wood shop a while back in my older brother gave me all the tools left to him by our father. One of the tools is an old Craftsman jointer which is probably 60 years old. When I set it up in my shop and started testing it I began noticing that Arch and it is pretty bad. I had no idea what was causing it until I just watched your video. I also noticed some Nicks and the blades and I will see if you have a video on sharpening the blades. Thank you very much sir for your video because I was totally lost with no clue as to what to do. I gave you a super thanks And subscribe to your Channel. Thank you again very much
Omg! My jointer was driving me crazy until I saw your video! Watched it to the end, made the adjustments as you described and couldn't believe my eyes at how accurate it cuts. Thank you so much!👍😉
Watching from Garissa Kenya..this is very brilliant work..thank you very much
Thanks for commenting ... yup, you are right, you can avoid snipe, and if you want to spend a lot more time re-setting jointer knives, setting them even with the outfeed table is the way to go. If you hate re-setting jointer knives and can live with a bit of snipe, setting them slightly above the outfeed table is still the best option. Above all, you never want the knives to fall below the outfeed table.
Thanks for the video, It is very informative. I have an older craftsman152.217060. I watched your video, then downloaded a manual. It says the knives are to be a maximum of 1/16" above the cutter head and to use the out feed table to adjust the out feed table height to the knives. I followed the instructions, then did your recommendation on the out feed table being "slightly" below the knife height, probably about .005" and it works great! no need to sand and pieces fit perfectly. Thank you for a great video.
Who's watching at 2x speed?
That's what I call a very helpful video with excellent technical description, best I've seen yet !!! Well done Colin
A friend gave me his tabletop jointer/planer. I just got it completely cleaned and put back together (minus the cutter guard). Once I get that back in place, I am going to try both methods with setting the blades. Looking forward to trying it out. Thank you for all the work you put into your videos.
Wanted to thank you Colin, i bought a hand jointer on a flemarket and didnt know how to set it up, thanks to this video now i have good results with it, thanks a lot.
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
In the video, when you repeat near the fence, your ruler actually moves BACK when you roll the knife forward! But, I get what you're saying and will give it a try. Thanks
Been struggling for months with my planer not cutting right. 5 minutes later, WHAM! Perfect cuts!
THANK YOU!
Thanks for taking the time to comment. Yes, "snipe" the bit of wood that is cut away from the back of each board is a common complaint with woodworkers. In many situations it can be sanded away or cut off but you always need to be aware of it to try and minimize it's effects.
Great to have you with us
Colin
Hi Kirk, that's one of the things I love about woodworking, there are many different ways to accomplish the same thing. I have a set of the magnetic jigs and have used, and mine worked ok, then I happened to read the manual for my jointer (5 years later) and discovered it had setscrews to set the blades ... sheesh, who knew.
Thanks for commenting, love to hear what others are doing and when they pass along good info like this too.
Colin
This is a very accurate and acceptable method. If 1931fordcoupe took the time to actually understand the geometry, he would not have made such an ill informed comment. In fact, the gauge "pull forward" method is recommended by Felder in their jointer manuals. For a Felder 4 blade jointer, 2mm pull forward puts the blade .0004" above the outfeed table. 3mm "pull forward" puts the blade .0015" above the outfeed table. Felder recommends 2-3mm pull forward.
I was having so much trouble getting my jointer to cut properly
Watch your video to the end, and did the adjustment and could not believe that it solved the problem thankyou very much keep the good videos up!!
The optimum drag is 3/32. I do like your process that's exactly how I set my knives.
Thank you so much, I followed the instruction you gave and now my old craftsman is making perfect cuts again. Rod
Well, I always say if it is working for you ... don't change :)
With my own jointer, when I do this I get rounding, ever so slightly, but enough that when I try to glue boards together they are don't fit well. For mine, the blade needs to be slightly above the outfeed in order to get flat boards, which of course now entails a wee bit of snipe, but that's what works on my jointer.
Thanks for commenting, always good to hear what others are doing, gives us more options to explore.
Colin
@frost0813 You are absolutely right ... and thanks for pointing it out, the closer you can get your blades to the height of the out-feed table the less snipe. You obviously have put quite a bit of time into fine tuning your equipment, great to have your skills and insights and to be able to help pass this info along to others too.
Thanks again for your input ... always welcome :)
Colin
Thank you !
Someone who finally covered the issue of snipes.
Great light shared here ! I have an very old Makita Joiner surfacer combo,and although I cannot use my surfacer any more because of failure of the rubber used on the rollers at the time ,I still love my 4 foot joiner bed and continue to use it regularly . This video has shown in very easy terms how to adjust the cutting blades ! My blades were to damn low for a period of time and it was frustrating as heck trying to fix the problem! Guess what ???after listening to this man ,my blades are cutting perfect once again. Makita even furnished Carbide blades on their combo,planer,joiner ,even though the piece of machinery is I believe over 25 years old !
My Grizzly jointer came set up from the factory as this gentleman describes. I usually do not have a lot of snipe on my boards. I get a perfectly flat smooth cut but it is now time to change the blades. I thought this was the best video on the subject that I have found and I have viewed many. I sure will experiment.
You Explained what no one else was able to. Thanks so much!
Thank you! I was beyond frustrated as to why my stupid
Jointer wasn’t flattening anything out worth a damn! Adjusting jointer knifes and trying again!
Sir, you explained the knife adjustment masterfully. You are very good. Thank you again.
Thank you very much I thought I wasted my money buying a jointer but you helped fix all of my issues thank you Colin
Some good points. I played the video at 2x speed and it was just right.
Thanks your video it has helped a lot, It took a while to work out why a chunk was taken out of the end of each piece of timber now I understand it after many hours fiddling with the machine,my startrite manual doesn't go through setting up the knives.A great tip, Thanks.
He is correct in setting them a hair above the out feed table. I use a sheet of computer paper and just get the points barely touching when rotating drum. Which has the same effect as this method. So basically the thickness of the paper above the out feed table.
I look at most all videos on woodworking. I am an amateur but I enjoy making saw dust. The comments ..negative and positive are opinions and the best advise I have read is READ THE MANUEL FIRST. .. My jointer is a Rockwell 6 in with adjust knobs on both sides. I have the rocking effect and can't find a manuel for it. ...Just seems that the OF side should be as the height of blades. Again just an opinion... thanks Colin for your video helps.
Thanks for this video. I will use this process to set the knives on my power hand plane in the same manner..going off the back half of the plane as if it were an outfeed table! Cheers, Jim
Thanks for this information i no longer have snipe that is that noticeable. Your instructions were very precise. Thanks again
Thanks for taking the time to comment, yes I still think having blades above the outfeed table is best, but like many things in woodworking, there are often different ways to do things. I am planning on making a follow up vid to this topic to explain pros and cons of each, so I appreciate your input. Thanks again, great to have you with us
Colin
Ive been struggling with an old Toolkraft so this is great information. Thank you!
Hi Colin, I love you videos. I’m a complete newbie so this video helped me solve problem. Ie blades very slightly too low. 👍 David. England
Hey Colin,
Don't cringe, I'm at the point where I need to replace my jointer blades and your video came up at the top of my search for setting them up. Fun to see how your video/editing approach has changed over the years.
lol ... yes, times have changed! I REALLY need to redo some of those old videos! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the nice instructional video. I used your method with the ruler. I have to blades. One blade top and bottom indicated 4mm ,the second blade showed 6mm top and bottom.....Do I need to adjust from 4 to 6 or vice versa ? thank you very much again...
Excellent tutorial, Colin. I am working on my aged jointer now, and I have my laptop in my shop to help me view your methods.
Best,
Charles
Great vid. Would like to point out that the less distance above the outfeed, the less the snipe. I have in fact eliminated snipe all together on my own, as I have put conciderable time into flattening and adjusting the tables. My knives are less than 1/1000 abve the outfeed.
Excelent video.
Can you tell us must comun mistakes? Like example you said here, if outfeed table is to low, wood will have a curve.
I'm trying to set up my Wen jointer, but I couldn't, in my last try, almost all wood is flat, but I have a little step on first 2in. What can be happened?
A useful and informative vid. Must admit I needed the demo to fully appreciate what you meant by 1/8 to 1/4" movement. I'll now check this machine that I purchased y'day. Thanks for the advice.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video - this was key to getting the planer set up correctly.
@smfield I know what you mean. I now starting to find out these manuals actually have some good things in them, and often could have saved me time had I bothered to read them. Glad I am not alone :)
Colin
Excellent instructional video Colin, thank you.
I have suffered ALL the problems you mention and blamed the ‘crowned’ boards on my technique.
As you say, by fractionally adjusting the blades above TDC you avoid crowning but at the cost of marginal snipe.
I was alarmed to read some harsh criticism of your vid., please do not let it put you off. There are many ways to crack an egg.
Take care
@BradburyGuy Thanks for the kind words, I try hard to make videos that will help others and it's nice to get encouraging comments ... thanks again.
very helpful, Thank you very much for showing jointer blades set up. Where can I buy the tools for setting up blades? Do You sell them? Thanks!
11 years later, and this video is still relevant...
The 3.5mm (~1/8") drag results in a very tiny error. For a cutterhead of 75mm (~3in) diameter, the height of the blade above the table will be 0.04mm (~ 0.0016"). I think the stick/ruler method is accurate enough, faster, and cheaper than using a dial indicator. As for reading the manual, read it first when the maching arrives, and then read it again after using the machine for a while, and then read it again after more use - you'll learn even more things.
Someday, I'll might you about setting up a Rockwell Uniplane.
Fulla blarney is going right.
Thank you alot. I'm repairing an old multifunction machine which has jointer and planner and don't know how to setting try the blades exactly. The manual was in French and there isn't much informations caused it is nearly 30 years old
Good video Paul. I had seen it before, but did not comment, but now that I am getting near owning a jointer, it is more relevent. It is a very helpful video.
Badger Woodcrafters Thanks for taking a moment to comment ... will be waiting to hear how you woodworking is coming along ...
Great video. In theory of setting the knives, perfect, however my older craftsman has the wedges and the manual says insert knife then wedge… which makes sense, but once the wedges are tightened down the results change. Without getting into the details of this 3 hour and 1 knife to go… if the 3 blades are within 1/8 - 1/4” we should be good right? One side of a knife might be an 1/8” the other end might be 1/4”? Thats as good as I can get. One end on one might be 1/8” but that end on the next might be 1/4”. I was going for 1/8” on each end of each knife and it truly seems impossible. Thanks for this video… 11 years ago! Lol
Thanks very useful .
Thanks for posting this, I just acquired my final piece of WW machinery and it is ironically the jointer... plugged it in and tried it out, was relatively straight, but there was some gouges.... need to change knives for new ones.... so here I am.... Im gonna try your method out before I go and pay for a magnetic jig.
Hey ... congrats on the new jointer, it will change your woodworking life, aside from the table saw, I think it is the next most important tool.
Just finished installing the new knives today... all I used was simple $5 dollar magnets from the hardware store and a metal ruler.. ran a test board and its smooth as silk and no snipe at all! The knives are so sharp that when the board is passing through the cutterhead the sound it makes is like scissors cutting paper! don't know how I survived all this time using a crummy hand planer.
bandit123kat There ya go ... good to hear
@HWD1958 Hey ... thanks for the not, glad it was helpful ... great to have you with us
Colin
Thanks for the lecture. I looked at my manual and it does talk about the adjustment screws! I would never have know, not being a manual reading type.
Thanks for this instruction, it showed me I've done a basic error. I've renovated an old 8" jointer/planer and I set the blades just so they wouldn't grab and I haven't had the performance I liked out of the jointer side of the machine. I guess I thought completely wrong wrt the grabbing thing, I had thought it should be a hair under the outfeed table, just enough to not grab.
1873Winchester In an ideal world, setting the knives exactly even with the out feed is best, but the problem is with a bit of wear, or a tiny mis-calc and the knives fall below the table and you end up with ... as you say, less than ideal results.
Thanks for commenting, I'm sure you will get this fixed up and be happy with the performance
WoodWorkWeb Well it took some doing, turns out part of my error was an improperly set outfeed table, but when I corrected for that and set the knives as shown here I've been able to joint almost entirely without snipe. Finally my jointer is starting to run as it ought to.
1873Winchester Well done, glad to here and thanks for the update. It's always rewarding when we figure these things out and they work as they were designed. Makes woodworking much more pleasurable
setting blades between 1/8 and 1/4 inch. You don't make a point that whatever you happen to choose, be it 1/8" or 1/6" or 1/4", etc., you need to have that exact same amount across the blade and on all three blades. Your demo in the video showed what you stated to be 1/4" on the outer edge while the inside edge looked to barely move the ruler. Was that really OK?
Thank you clear and informative. Cleared up a lot of questions
I would have though the blade height should of been the same as the outfeed table, the infeed sets the amount cut and the outfeed holds it parallel to the infeed, if you are hold the timber down to the outfeed table then its tipping.... I'm just a hack
I get a concave hollow if you know what i mean? I presume the blades are too high.
Colin. I don't have a manual. But why is the outfeed table adjustable?
Thanks you sir .... you have fixed my problem.....
@HWD1958 Hey ... thanks for the not, glad it was helpful ... great to have you with us
Hi Colin,
I agree with your setup method here. I do not have a dial indicator or one of those magnetic adjustment tools. I fully admit that I could probably be a lot closer in my knife setup if I got one of those like the in the wood whisperer video. I actually use two straight strips of plywood instead of a steel rule because I dont want to nick my nice rules. Works + is repeatable...I've found any variance / snipe is less than .25mm (approx 1/128") which is accurate enough for me.
@HWD1958 Hey .... thanks for the note, glad it was helpful to you. I need this kind of feedback from time to time so I know if my vids are useful to others, thanks for taking the time
Colin
I have the same jointer. Bought it used with no manual. Where are the screws to adjust knives up and down?
This is not the way to set planer knives. Your blades should be exactly the same height as the out feed table. If the board is coming out with a bow in it when the knives are level with the out feed table your problem is most likely to be the fact that the in feed and out feed tables are not parallel to each other. If you set blades like this guy is telling you then you will get snipe on the end of every cut for defs. It's common sense
MrSamywammy It will not. If knives are *barely* higher than infeed table (just how he shows) they won't cut. You may easily check it by yourself, set knives this way, lay flat piece of wood on the infeed table and try to rotate shaft with your hands. Knives will touch wood, grab it backwards like they grab ruler, but won't cut. If you rais knives higher, they will cut indeed and you'll get "snipe". So (as he said) it is extremely important to adjust knives at the perfect height, no lower, no higher.
I agree with MrSamywammy. We make bespoke furniture from tables, cabinets, doors solid wood bookshelves, you name it, we make it. On our three jointers, the outfeed table is set to match the highest point of the jointer knives. All three jointers are regularly maintained and serviced in the shop by SCM and that's how they themselves set the jointers up. Not cheap machines I know but all three work perfectly set up this way.
MrSammywammy.. once you have your blades set to the exact height of your outfeed table does it no longer matter about the height of your in-feed table? Basically what I'm asking is this, when I'm adjusting the blades am I only concerned about the outfeed table and making sure the blades are perfectly level to that
@@coastalcreekwoodworks8795 your infeed table determines how much material you are taking off with each pass. As long as it’s coplaner with out feed table is all that matters. Your knives are set to the outfeed table. The closer to level with outfeed the less snipe. If your jointer has adjustable outfeed table you can fine tune it after knives are close.
@@user-gm5xm2zy3t thanks bud!
Great video Colin. I'm a little confused about the in table. At the beginning you said the in and out table should be the same height with the blades barely higher than the out table, which mine are. My out table is non adjustable and the in table does adjust, don't you always keep them the same height, I realize by lowering the in table you take a heavier cut but does that still give you a flat cut? I don't have any manual with my jointer.
+Fred Parsons Your infeed table should always be lower than the outfeed table...but needs to be nearly perfectly parallel to it.
You've come a long way in your video production Colin ! Its great this video is still so relevant after such a long time
what should be the height of the knife holder (cutter head)in relation to the outfeed table. tanks
I have ones of those porter cable 6" bench top jointers, and it has the ability to adjust the knife height via the set screws as you mention in the video. But I have a heck of a time getting both sides of the blades exactly the same height. Personally I find this really frustrating, as I can never figure out if the two ends of the blade are at exactly the same height. Any suggestions on how to makes this easier would be appreciated
combination squares are from aluminum they bend easily just like wood. great video
Agreed! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for all the information.. Being a first time Jointer Operator, the information was very helpful.... Was cutting thin on one side, adjusted blade height and hopefully I've got the problem taken care of....
Thanks for commenting Tim
I tell you, even setting the fence can be a pain. I picked up a Porter Cable 6" Jointer (PC160JT) Being a first timer, I didn't know which jointer to get, so I didn't want to spent to much money. I'm a scroller and just wanted to flatten out my project wood before setting it on the scroll saw table. What are your thoughts on my choice....
Tim Rogers Yes, many jointers fences are somewhat crude, but the good thing with most of them, once you have set them of 90 degrees, they shouldn't require any further adjusting, except to track them back and forth along the cutters, or you can do like many of us and leave the fence far to the right so you don't even have to move it back and forth. This does create a bit more wear on the the end of the knives, and thus sharpening them a bit more, but saves moving the fence back and forth all the time.
I have not used the PC jointer you describe, but it is a good brand name I would expect it work pretty well for you Tim.
Well I'm hoping it will work out, I just need to get use to using it, being that this is my first jointer. I sure would hate to use it as a door stop.... I've been reading the reviews on the PC and the jointer was rated at 4-1/2 stars out of five... Time will tell .... Thank you for your replies....
Another great video Colin ... thanks!
if you set your blades high like this you will never get a straight joint unless you keep all the pressure on your infeed table (which is wrong) whilst feeding the board and then expect to get snipe.. as long as all your blades are set to the same height you can then adjust the outfeed table quickly and easily so that it is exactly the same height as the knives. if you dont understand what i mean check my channel on jointer tips and tricks.
+Tayler Made I agree. I had both problems - too low, then slightly too high. in the end I had to set it exact to the outfeed height
@HWD1958 Hey .... thanks for the note, glad it was helpful to you. I need this kind of feedback from time to time so I know if my vids are useful to others, thanks for taking the time
Mr. Collin, I have a cheap Porter cable jointer which appears to be a hit and miss..I'm currently trying to joint the edges to make a board but I seem to be having trouble. it appears as the blade is "perfectly set from the manufacturer. I watched your instructions and my blade pushes the ruler at least 3/16"-1/4" what do you think can be wrong if I continue to have arched boards and everything seems to be pretty align. thank you for your video and time.
Thank you
Thank you so much. This has really kind of condensed at the info in my mind. I get it now.
@smfield Actually, now I don't use anything to measure the height of the blades. As I show in the video, I just hold a steel rule over the blades and rotate slowly in the directional flow of the wood. When the knife catches on the steel rule it should lift it slightly and move it forward about 1/8th of an inch at any point along blade. That's all I do to set the blades.
Colin
is that a delta jointer? I have the same one I think and need to replace the blades soon. Any tips youd give me for your specific one?
Thanks for solving my problem
You're Welcome!
thank you love the info retired so learning what i want now
I've used all methods known for setting jointer knives and I have found that the magnetic jigs are the quickest, and the dial indicator is the most precise and fulfilling. There are few things better in wood working then dragging a dial indicator over a blade and seeing zero needle movement hah.
Did anyone what notice the back of the blade didn't move the ruler?
LOL! "Read the Manual!" good advice often not taken.
Lol so true.
Me: “dammit I can’t figure out how I’m supposed to do ____ “
Wife: “here’s the manual”
Me: “I got it”
A few minutes later “god****** this piece of ******* ****!”
**wife shakes her head while rolling eyes**
tommy mack said the blades should be exactly as high as the outfeed table. not higher or lower.
Excellent video! I had nearly given up hope on my Ridgid jointer because it kept producing convex surfaces. Your video explained the cause exactly and I readjusted my knifes to be slightly proud. Now I have dead-flat boards every time. Thank you!
BTW, these shop-made straight edges were also a huge help: woodworkerszone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Setting_jointer_tables_coplaner
Thanks for the note Phil ... and for the link, I will check it out :)
Colin
thanks for the good description :-)
thank you thank you thank you
+Ray Connelly No Prob ...
does this apply to electric hand planers too?
This worked fine for me. My blades were set too low and my boards were bowing.
Thanks for watching!
To frost0813, do you use a dial micrometer gage?
tanta teoria para una cosa tan simple
marras m thank you for commenting
Jeez, all this bitching over knife setting. This is what I was taught and find works best. Use a nice straight piece of jointed timber NOT metal to set the height of your blades to the outfeed table. Use a very soft wood block to gently tap the knives down until they drag/tickle the timber ever so slightly. I go by the sound the wood strip makes from one end of the knife to the other. You can hear the blade scratch the timber. Done.
But what soon happens is that keen fresh edge gets worn a tad and you will have to back off the out feed a scooch to bring it back to snipe free. After a while you may have to back it off a tiny bit more as the blade gets tiny nicks.
In practice I use the middle of the table to surface and save the keener edges at the back and front of the table for edge jointing. Mind you it helps to have 20” wide beds if you want to do that.
The truth is in practice that to get it perfect you have to tweak the out feed every now and then, thats why its adjustable people.
Height not heighth.
👍 👍👍👏👏👏🙋♂️ Curitiba/PR/Brazil 🇧🇷 🇺🇸
That's a "scale", a ruler is in Buckingham Palace.
@HWD1958 Hey ... thanks for the not, glad it was helpful ... great to have you with us
Colin