Really late to this party but I found this video recently. I was initially intimidated by the task of changing the knives in an old jointer , exactly like this one . I watched this video , ordered a pack of knives and followed your instructions and BAM ! Old jointer works slick , like a brand new one . Thanks for keeping it so simple .
Very helpful video! Exactly what I was looking for! I'm ordering new knives for my 6" jointer today and now feel confident that I can change them myself. Thank you!
Thanks very much dude. I’m refurbishing an old one now. These machines are cool and very well built. I think mine will have at least another hundred years in her.
Great video John; just one thing, your using Gib Bolts to remove and replace the Gib, I note that your video is the first one I watched that says to screw them into the Gib to loosen the blades, I suggest cleaning all saw dust from around the machine in case you drop one of those springs. Back to the Jack screws (also more correctly called bolts) - your jointed does not have "Jack Screws" they are in the cutter head (2 per blade) and have a recessed Hex Socket Flat Head, and are used to lift the installed blade like a micrometer fashion with your Gib Bolts snug, but not tight. You can also use the Jack Screws to install sharpened blade accurately by (loosening the up to snug on the bottom of the old blade before removing) and then an additional 1 turn out, before remounting the same sharpened blade in the same slot, number the blades and knives when removing for best results.
OK, We're back on line with both bearings replaced and each end of each knife barely contacting a straight-edge placed on the down-stream plane surface. Used no lubricant on the wedges, as with most interference fits, this can break one of the components when tightened. I will not remove the outboard bearing if re-adjustment is needed, but will instead, drill and tap the outboard end of each wedge to the same thread as the wedge clamp bolts. If you're familiar with the Morse hub/sheave method, the tapped holes serve as placement for the three clamp screws to serve as jack screws. As we learned with the outboard bearing removed, the wedging action will work from one end. (three good blows with a 3 lb Lead block to a suitable flat screw driver bade), backing the released (from the shaft) blade holder with a bar inside the inboard (belt side) bearing support. I would recommend this as a viable mod unless you have some very specific wedge tools for this purpose. When done, this purred through mahogany block like it was wax. Nice curled chips on the floor!!! :)
@michaelbowlby8073 I have the Jet JJ8-CS... assuming that is the Jointer you have. Were you able to follow the proccess outlined in the video? I have the jointer pal and I had limited sucess. The biggest issue was the blades kept putting upgward pressure on the Jointer Pal causing the Jointer Pal to raise up off the table. I eventually used bricks to hold down the Jointer Pal.
Thank you for the video and detail. I have almost this same jointer. I actually turned the gibs the wrong way before seeing your video. So my guess is the jack screws when loosened go tight up against the wall behind the head and that is how the blades are tightened? I have to give it a try again tonight. I thought that the screws went against the blade, but after seeing this it looks like the bottom of the jack screws never touch the blade. Thanks!
Oh, you thought that the blade goes in the other side and the screws pushed against the blade? I mean, there are lots of designs out there but if your jointer looks like the one in the video (which was a popular model sold by a few different companies) then set yours up like you see here.
Great video and explanation- I have the exact same jointer and am going to change the knives. Can you tell me what knives you purchased/used? Thanks for taking the time to put this video together.
New blades can be extremely sharp! Caution should be used when handling blades. You can be cut very easily without a realization that the blades are cutting you. Gloves are a great idea.
We've got a really old one with the blade wedges totally jammed. After getting out the outboard ball bearing, a window to each wedge bottom was exposed, where a tapered flat head screw driver could be driven parallel to the shaft with a bar to block cutter head against the inboard (belt side) bearing support. All strikes for all operations were done with diver's lead blocks. The way our blade wedges were stuck, anything other than a tapered wedge driven straight in would never have worked. We will need to replace the outboard ball bearing and we did witness-punch the wedges and rotor at the outboard end
There is a simple tool that comes with the machine to take the guess work in aligning the blade. It aligns both sides of the blade at top dead center, so all you have to do is tighten the holding bracket.
Yes, some jointers are supplied with that alignment bracket, but not everybody finds it useful. I think mine is buried in a drawer somewhere in my shop.
Hello - great video (ty) I was wondering if you could tell me how to measure the knife when buying replacements. Do you measure the width from the flat squared edge to the very tip/cutting edge of the knife or just to where the angle of the edge starts?
I'm not certain I follow your description, but for choosing new knives it's best if you have the old ones to compare. The knives should be fully seated in the groove and be able to poke above it. The hold down mechanism should have enough meat on the knife for a solid purchase and not have the bevel buried. Obviously the width of the knife is the same as the groove. You may find more than one size that fits, since some may be taller than others. All you really care about is a solid seat in the groove and clearance for the blades in the machine. Since the mechanism can be lowered or raised and the tables adjusted, you can always get the new blades tuned in even if they are slightly different.
Mine probably came with one, but I couldn't guess where it is now. Often you can find manuals online in PDF format. Remember, this jointer was re-badged for different brands so if your particular brand isn't available a manual from another brand should be essentially the same.
I usually take a blue sharpie and color each bevel in the knives. as a test run, I joint a face of a wood and see which knife has the most blueing removed. I make adjustments as needed.
I agree with everything you did except for, how do you know the knife is just touching the underside of the wood if it doesn’t move at all? Are you going to use a feeler gauge or something? I hate the amount of time it takes to set the joint or knives as everyone else does. I just don’t know a surefire and simpler way of doing this. Usually, I will take my aluminum straight edge which is perfect and putting Mark on the straight edge and see how much it moves from the highest point forward and then do that to the backside and the front side of each night. I have not tried the magnetic trick yet even though I have it, so I guess that is going to be my next adventure to try to make this process quicker. I hate changing these knives so much that I am looking to sell my jointer I have now and purchase a helix head jointer instead.
The process can be a little fiddly, but even with my tired old eyes I can get nearly perfect to the scrap wood. Generally you go slightly too high and then back off for the final adjustment. I use my jointer mostly for edge joining so I don't need to change the blades that often. The helix thing has pluses and minuses--it may be more forgiving as far as keeping sharp edges available but the cost is nothing to sneeze at.
@@enduringcharm completely agree. I fiddle with it for about an hour or two and I finally got it decent enough. I would like to sell the one I have now and buy a heal head, but it wouldn’t make sense unless I can get at least half what I paid for the one I have now which is a powermatic 6 inch long bed
I have seen other videos where it is said that the blade should pick up the board and move it forward 1/8th to 1/4 inch. How do I know which to follow after watching your video.?
What's important is that all the blades reach the same high point when they come to the top of the spin. As you note, some people feel they can get an easier sense of that high point by seeing a scrap piece of wood move. Others, like me, prefer to observe the blade just kiss a straight edge. It makes no nevermind as long as you get all the blades peaking at the same point. Pick your favorite, or do both by raising the cutterhead slightly after using my method.
good info on blade changing! will be using later this week!! know this is an old video, but just got a similar Reliant jointer given to me.. looking for a manual/info on it. can't seem to find any info on the unit online. know or have manual? info? thanks
There may be a manual online, but it may be under a different brand name. This unit was sold under various brand names at the time. There's not much to know, however, other than changing the knives. The fence is pretty self-explanatory.
Well done. My concern would be having the wrench slip and graze one of those perfectly sharp blades. I use gloves.I know myself to well and would rather not bleed on my tools… But that’s just me
I have the same jointer picked up at a great price on CL, any chance you have the manual online you can point me to? Trying to figure out the fence system. Your video is great for helping change out the blades, thanks.
I'm sorry, I don't have a link for you. The fence system is pretty simple, though. You have a tilt mechanism so you can joint at an angle, and you have a left/right mechanism relative to the cutter head.
Have the exact same jointer and I’ve been scared to change the knives out on it, after watching your video several times I did it last night. took a little over an hour and I have great results now. Thank you appreciate you documenting it.
Good advice and idea...After Ive cleaned and service my jpinter I realised Ive lowered the outfeed table and want to know how or to waht level? I assume its important to get the outfeed table at the "right" height before I start replacing or set the new blades??
Don't fret. Install your new blades first, and then set your outfeed table to the same height. Lay an accurate metal straight edge across the outfeed so it overhangs the new blades then lower the outfeed slowly until it just kisses the tip of the blades. Check several rotations to make sure all the blades are the same height and the same height across the width of the blade.
I don't recall the last time, but it might have been Freud. They are just high speed steel, pretty basic stuff, so I wouldn't get too caught up about the brand.
I have a Reliant jointer that is almost identical to this one. I need to replace the knives but the springs are gone on mine. How can I install the new knives without the springs to keep them high enough?
Well, for one thing, you may be able to get replacement springs. I think it was one of the box stores or maybe Amazon where I found you could buy a box of assorted springs. That little box of springs has saved my rear-end a few times! Another option might be to use a flat magnet on the bed and across the blade area to hold them up. But, check around for those assorted springs first, they are real handy to have on hand.
Well, getting a full box wrench over the head would be ideal, unless it's not a hex head. Using heat in the form of a propane torch or a heat gun would be another trick. Letting a penetrant soak in overnight or over a longer period might help. They really shouldn't be that tight, which makes me wonder if the problem is just frozen threads. If you can get a full wrench on there and heat up the surrounding metal that should do it. You can try whacking the opposite end of the wrench with a mallet to crack it loose. Once you get it apart, check to make sure the heat didn't warp anything.
@enduringcharm I got some PB Blaster, and I will let them soak and also try the torch technique. One head is rounded off pretty badly, so I will probably just have to cut that one off and replace it. Totally agree, there is no reason to over torque these. It also seems hard to find a high-quality wrench for something this small.
There is another trick I don't use very often, but it sometimes works. If the heat is a fail you can try ice cubes. Hold the ice cubes on the bolt head as best you can and let it melt awhile, then try to loosen.
I have a Reliant jointer that is almost identical. I was able to find a wrench that is the correct size. It's a 5/16". If you go to the tool section at Lowes, they do sell individual small wrenches, but they are in a cabinet. I never knew it was there. You may have to ask, but you can buy one for just a few bucks.
So, who's right??? Other videos recommend the knives be set high enough to cause a 1/8" to 1/4" displacement of the straight edge as the knife passes by.
It really doesn't matter, as long as you get to the proper end result, which is that the knives are all in alignment. For me, it's easier to see differences by having the knives just kiss the straightedge.
Great Video... did you joint the two boards that you used to align the blades? I bascially have the same jointer as you do. Its the updated Jet JJ-8CS.
You mean you are concerned about the straightness of the "check" board? I probably just used a table saw to get it flat and straight. It really doesn't matter, and even a factory edge is probably straight and flat enough for this purpose.
Yes. Thanks. I have the Jointer Pal and the probem I was having is the springs in my Jointer were exerting so much force that they were causing the Jointer Pal to lift off the table surface. The fix was using bricks to keep the Jointer Pal in place. The knives are close but I think I can get them better aligned by using the method you describe in your video. @@enduringcharm
Really late to this party but I found this video recently. I was initially intimidated by the task of changing the knives in an old jointer , exactly like this one . I watched this video , ordered a pack of knives and followed your instructions and BAM ! Old jointer works slick , like a brand new one . Thanks for keeping it so simple .
That's great to hear, I'm glad you got it sorted!
Good information and camera work.
Good to see someone doing it old school and not using a $500 micrometer.
Thanks.
Very helpful video! Exactly what I was looking for! I'm ordering new knives for my 6" jointer today and now feel confident that I can change them myself. Thank you!
Thanks very much dude. I’m refurbishing an old one now. These machines are cool and very well built. I think mine will have at least another hundred years in her.
This looks like a commonsense way to install and adjust new knives. Great job, beautiful old jointer
Just the video I needed. Thanks for KISS. I appreciate it. I just completed the job, 40 minutes, cutting square. Can't ask for more.
Glad it helped!
I have the same jointer (8" version) and this was exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for posting!!
Thanks for a very clear video. I have almost the same model to change blades in and found the information very helpful.
Great video! Lots of useful tricks as I'm currently having chatter issues with my Powermatic jointer. Cheers!
Great video John; just one thing, your using Gib Bolts to remove and replace the Gib, I note that your video is the first one I watched that says to screw them into the Gib to loosen the blades, I suggest cleaning all saw dust from around the machine in case you drop one of those springs. Back to the Jack screws (also more correctly called bolts) - your jointed does not have "Jack Screws" they are in the cutter head (2 per blade) and have a recessed Hex Socket Flat Head, and are used to lift the installed blade like a micrometer fashion with your Gib Bolts snug, but not tight. You can also use the Jack Screws to install sharpened blade accurately by (loosening the up to snug on the bottom of the old blade before removing) and then an additional 1 turn out, before remounting the same sharpened blade in the same slot, number the blades and knives when removing for best results.
Great demonstration. Thank you.
I need to change mine..... thanks for making me feel better about it! Good vid!
OK,
We're back on line with both bearings replaced and each end of each knife barely contacting a straight-edge placed on the down-stream plane surface.
Used no lubricant on the wedges, as with most interference fits, this can break one of the components when tightened.
I will not remove the outboard bearing if re-adjustment is needed, but will instead, drill and tap the outboard end of each wedge to the same thread as the wedge clamp bolts.
If you're familiar with the Morse hub/sheave method, the tapped holes serve as placement for the three clamp screws to serve as jack screws.
As we learned with the outboard bearing removed, the wedging action will work from one end. (three good blows with a 3 lb Lead block to a suitable flat screw driver bade),
backing the released (from the shaft) blade holder with a bar inside the inboard (belt side) bearing support.
I would recommend this as a viable mod unless you have some very specific wedge tools for this purpose.
When done, this purred through mahogany block like it was wax.
Nice curled chips on the floor!!! :)
Thanks John, I need to do the same on my jointer, 8” jet. Good information, much appreciated
@michaelbowlby8073 I have the Jet JJ8-CS... assuming that is the Jointer you have. Were you able to follow the proccess outlined in the video? I have the jointer pal and I had limited sucess. The biggest issue was the blades kept putting upgward pressure on the Jointer Pal causing the Jointer Pal to raise up off the table. I eventually used bricks to hold down the Jointer Pal.
Thank you for the video and detail. I have almost this same jointer. I actually turned the gibs the wrong way before seeing your video. So my guess is the jack screws when loosened go tight up against the wall behind the head and that is how the blades are tightened? I have to give it a try again tonight. I thought that the screws went against the blade, but after seeing this it looks like the bottom of the jack screws never touch the blade. Thanks!
Oh, you thought that the blade goes in the other side and the screws pushed against the blade? I mean, there are lots of designs out there but if your jointer looks like the one in the video (which was a popular model sold by a few different companies) then set yours up like you see here.
Great video. Right to the point and very clear. Thanks!
Great video! Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!
Very well done video: practical points, easier to hear audio, and I happen to have the exact same jointer. Kudos!
Great video and explanation- I have the exact same jointer and am going to change the knives. Can you tell me what knives you purchased/used? Thanks for taking the time to put this video together.
I found mine on amazon, sold as "Freud C350 6-by-5/8-by-1/8-Inch Jointer Knives, 3-Pack.
Good video , straight and to the point!
New blades can be extremely sharp! Caution should be used when handling blades. You can be cut very easily without a realization that the blades are cutting you. Gloves are a great idea.
We've got a really old one with the blade wedges totally jammed.
After getting out the outboard ball bearing, a window to each wedge bottom was exposed, where a tapered flat head screw driver could be driven parallel to the shaft with a bar to block cutter head against the inboard (belt side) bearing support.
All strikes for all operations were done with diver's lead blocks.
The way our blade wedges were stuck, anything other than a tapered wedge driven straight in would never have worked.
We will need to replace the outboard ball bearing and we did witness-punch the wedges and rotor at the outboard end
There is a simple tool that comes with the machine to take the guess work in aligning the blade. It aligns both sides of the blade at top dead center, so all you have to do is tighten the holding bracket.
Yes, some jointers are supplied with that alignment bracket, but not everybody finds it useful. I think mine is buried in a drawer somewhere in my shop.
Hello - great video (ty)
I was wondering if you could tell me how to measure the knife when buying replacements. Do you measure the width from the flat squared edge to the very tip/cutting edge of the knife or just to where the angle of the edge starts?
I'm not certain I follow your description, but for choosing new knives it's best if you have the old ones to compare. The knives should be fully seated in the groove and be able to poke above it. The hold down mechanism should have enough meat on the knife for a solid purchase and not have the bevel buried. Obviously the width of the knife is the same as the groove. You may find more than one size that fits, since some may be taller than others. All you really care about is a solid seat in the groove and clearance for the blades in the machine. Since the mechanism can be lowered or raised and the tables adjusted, you can always get the new blades tuned in even if they are slightly different.
Thanks John, I recently purchased this jointer but I’m having trouble finding a manual, any idea where I could get one?
Mine probably came with one, but I couldn't guess where it is now. Often you can find manuals online in PDF format. Remember, this jointer was re-badged for different brands so if your particular brand isn't available a manual from another brand should be essentially the same.
I usually take a blue sharpie and color each bevel in the knives. as a test run, I joint a face of a wood and see which knife has the most blueing removed. I make adjustments as needed.
Hey, great idea--thanks for sharing!
I agree with everything you did except for, how do you know the knife is just touching the underside of the wood if it doesn’t move at all? Are you going to use a feeler gauge or something? I hate the amount of time it takes to set the joint or knives as everyone else does. I just don’t know a surefire and simpler way of doing this. Usually, I will take my aluminum straight edge which is perfect and putting Mark on the straight edge and see how much it moves from the highest point forward and then do that to the backside and the front side of each night. I have not tried the magnetic trick yet even though I have it, so I guess that is going to be my next adventure to try to make this process quicker. I hate changing these knives so much that I am looking to sell my jointer I have now and purchase a helix head jointer instead.
The process can be a little fiddly, but even with my tired old eyes I can get nearly perfect to the scrap wood. Generally you go slightly too high and then back off for the final adjustment. I use my jointer mostly for edge joining so I don't need to change the blades that often. The helix thing has pluses and minuses--it may be more forgiving as far as keeping sharp edges available but the cost is nothing to sneeze at.
@@enduringcharm completely agree. I fiddle with it for about an hour or two and I finally got it decent enough. I would like to sell the one I have now and buy a heal head, but it wouldn’t make sense unless I can get at least half what I paid for the one I have now which is a powermatic 6 inch long bed
I have seen other videos where it is said that the blade should pick up the board and move it forward 1/8th to 1/4 inch. How do I know which to follow after watching your video.?
What's important is that all the blades reach the same high point when they come to the top of the spin. As you note, some people feel they can get an easier sense of that high point by seeing a scrap piece of wood move. Others, like me, prefer to observe the blade just kiss a straight edge. It makes no nevermind as long as you get all the blades peaking at the same point. Pick your favorite, or do both by raising the cutterhead slightly after using my method.
It has been my experience after many years with an 8" jointer that for most accurate results the blades should move the straight edge about 2mm.
good info on blade changing! will be using later this week!! know this is an old video, but just got a similar Reliant jointer given to me.. looking for a manual/info on it. can't seem to find any info on the unit online. know or have manual? info? thanks
There may be a manual online, but it may be under a different brand name. This unit was sold under various brand names at the time. There's not much to know, however, other than changing the knives. The fence is pretty self-explanatory.
Well done. My concern would be having the wrench slip and graze one of those perfectly sharp blades.
I use gloves.I know myself to well and would rather not bleed on my tools…
But that’s just me
It can be a little tricky when you have a small bolt head which needs to be very tight.
I have the same jointer picked up at a great price on CL, any chance you have the manual online you can point me to? Trying to figure out the fence system. Your video is great for helping change out the blades, thanks.
I'm sorry, I don't have a link for you. The fence system is pretty simple, though. You have a tilt mechanism so you can joint at an angle, and you have a left/right mechanism relative to the cutter head.
Have the exact same jointer and I’ve been scared to change the knives out on it, after watching your video several times I did it last night. took a little over an hour and I have great results now. Thank you appreciate you documenting it.
That's great to hear!
well done
Thanks for this!!!!!!!
Good advice and idea...After Ive cleaned and service my jpinter I realised Ive lowered the outfeed table and want to know how or to waht level? I assume its important to get the outfeed table at the "right" height before I start replacing or set the new blades??
Don't fret. Install your new blades first, and then set your outfeed table to the same height. Lay an accurate metal straight edge across the outfeed so it overhangs the new blades then lower the outfeed slowly until it just kisses the tip of the blades. Check several rotations to make sure all the blades are the same height and the same height across the width of the blade.
Thank you for the advice, I'll do it first thing tomorrow morning....
Thanks!
Can you share which blades you purchased? I have one of these I'd like to restore, but do not have a manual. Thanks!
I don't recall the last time, but it might have been Freud. They are just high speed steel, pretty basic stuff, so I wouldn't get too caught up about the brand.
I have a Reliant jointer that is almost identical to this one. I need to replace the knives but the springs are gone on mine. How can I install the new knives without the springs to keep them high enough?
Well, for one thing, you may be able to get replacement springs. I think it was one of the box stores or maybe Amazon where I found you could buy a box of assorted springs. That little box of springs has saved my rear-end a few times! Another option might be to use a flat magnet on the bed and across the blade area to hold them up. But, check around for those assorted springs first, they are real handy to have on hand.
Nice.....thanks
Any tips for loosening super tight jack screws? These things can be a nightmare. Can they be cut off and just replaced?
Well, getting a full box wrench over the head would be ideal, unless it's not a hex head. Using heat in the form of a propane torch or a heat gun would be another trick. Letting a penetrant soak in overnight or over a longer period might help. They really shouldn't be that tight, which makes me wonder if the problem is just frozen threads. If you can get a full wrench on there and heat up the surrounding metal that should do it. You can try whacking the opposite end of the wrench with a mallet to crack it loose. Once you get it apart, check to make sure the heat didn't warp anything.
@enduringcharm I got some PB Blaster, and I will let them soak and also try the torch technique. One head is rounded off pretty badly, so I will probably just have to cut that one off and replace it. Totally agree, there is no reason to over torque these. It also seems hard to find a high-quality wrench for something this small.
There is another trick I don't use very often, but it sometimes works. If the heat is a fail you can try ice cubes. Hold the ice cubes on the bolt head as best you can and let it melt awhile, then try to loosen.
Ii dont have thin enough wrenches to get into the nuts..I'm lookingvto see if they make skinny wrenches
I have the same jointer and I need new blades what size are they and where did you get the new blades what are the knife sizes
I'm doing this from memory, so double check me. I think these were the ones I purchased last time:
amzn.to/2WOTfoH
So to tighten the knives you pull away from the fence ?
I'm not sure I follow your question--could you elaborate?
thank you!
Where do you buy knives? I have the same machine and It cost me 100 to buy a new set
Are you in the US? The Freud brand 6-by-5/8-by-1/8-Inch Jointer Knives that I have purchased in the past are currently $28 on Amazon.
Is this a 6” reliant jointer?
Yes, or one of the many identical copies. To be honest, I can't remember without going out to the shop to look!
not sure if ill get an answer here but I cannot seem to find the tool or a tool to remove the set screws for the blade change.
Is it a similar set up as in the video? If so, you just need a common wrench, nothing special.
@@enduringcharm i guess all of my wrenches are overweight, to the grinder they go! thanks
Oh, I see. Yeah you can grind down a cheap wrench or purchase a thinner style. The newer wrenches tend to be thinner than older designs anyway.
@@enduringcharm I ground one down and it worked out mint, going to swap them out after work, thanks!
I have a Reliant jointer that is almost identical. I was able to find a wrench that is the correct size. It's a 5/16". If you go to the tool section at Lowes, they do sell individual small wrenches, but they are in a cabinet. I never knew it was there. You may have to ask, but you can buy one for just a few bucks.
Super random - but if you tried, even a little bit, you could do a really good Joe Pesci impression 😅
What size wrench 5/16?
Oh, my memory is not that good! It's something in that range, anyway.
So, who's right??? Other videos recommend the knives be set high enough to cause a 1/8" to 1/4" displacement of the straight edge as the knife passes by.
It really doesn't matter, as long as you get to the proper end result, which is that the knives are all in alignment. For me, it's easier to see differences by having the knives just kiss the straightedge.
When you say on the same plane, you mean level?
Meaning that the input and output beds are at the same level.
@@enduringcharm ahh Great video I got my knifes in!
Glad it worked out!
Antique wood probably has a few nails in them....get a metal detector it will save you from nicking the blades up.
Springs are giving me hell
It can be fiddly. Usually I'll keep everything pretty sung while I adjust so that it doesn't mover around as much.
Use gloves for hands. I learned the hard way. Lol
What kind of weasely, hatefilled spam are you trying to show people before your vids??? Have some self respect...
Huh??
Great Video... did you joint the two boards that you used to align the blades? I bascially have the same jointer as you do. Its the updated Jet JJ-8CS.
You mean you are concerned about the straightness of the "check" board? I probably just used a table saw to get it flat and straight. It really doesn't matter, and even a factory edge is probably straight and flat enough for this purpose.
Yes. Thanks. I have the Jointer Pal and the probem I was having is the springs in my Jointer were exerting so much force that they were causing the Jointer Pal to lift off the table surface. The fix was using bricks to keep the Jointer Pal in place. The knives are close but I think I can get them better aligned by using the method you describe in your video. @@enduringcharm
Well, it can't hurt to double check your adjustment using this method.