WHAT HEM TYPE IS GOOD FOR WHAT KIND OF GARMENTS? (hint - stop following the pattern, YOU decide!)
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- Опубликовано: 20 июл 2024
- Ever wonder if you could sew a better hem finish than the one the pattern envelope instructs? You can! Let's talk about how you can start assessing your garments to pick the most appropriate hem finish that YOu want to do!
0:00 Intro
2:17 3 factors to consider
3:17 Hem choices
4:34 Fabric type
5:40 Garment style
9:52 Garment use
11:55 Conclusion
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Are you going to choose your own hem next time? ✂️ I have all the techniques to sew the most beautiful hems, at Vintage Sewing School www.vintagesewingschool.com/
This addressed the issue I’ve always had hemming things. After watching I can’t help but think, how did I not realize this? Your videos do such a lovely job of explaining technique as well as the reasoning behind what you’re doing. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us in such a sweet, genuine way. Your personality is delightful.
I adore that you spoke about “going off pattern.” You are the first RUclipsr speak on this (that I have seen) and yet it is what us beginners all want to learn 👏👏👏👏👏. Thank You!
Typically casual garments will get machine hems and nicer garments are always hand hemmed. Exception was back in those disco days. I made 3 circle skirts from a slightly heavy satin finished twill. The overall weight of the skirt would twirl well and skirts were worn just a few inches above the ankle, tea length. One dance partner was 6'4" and felt it was his duty to twirl me fast enough to get the skirt completely up in the air. Mom and I discussed a narrow handkerchief hem, but shoe styles were stilettos and they could catch so easily in any hand stitched hem. So I did a 1/4" narrow double turn on the machine, carefully hand basting first so as to work the fullness in and get a flat hem. Worked out great. Exceptions to every rule!
I was thinking about this topic just yesterday, how timely! I normally hand sew hems, though I might use closer stitches on some garments than others- but the reason is because most of my garments are for my kids. Yes, they are active, but also they are growing, and a hand stitched hem is easier to unpack and leaves less scarring if they need a bit more length. The reason I was thinking about this yesterday was because I was making a 1940s child's apron, and the pattern specifically said to turn up and 'stitch' the hem, rather than 'slipstitch,' and the illustration made clear the hem was visible, too. I am so used to slip stitching that it gave me pause, but ofcourse I realised it was because it is a utility garment, even if decorative, and designed for harder laundering.
I made a beautiful robe for my niece when she was little, she is now 30 yrs old. I made the sleeves with huge cuffs. I put the contrasting lining of the sleeves about 5 inches up the inside of the sleeve then hand sewed it down.Does that make sense? So the robe started out with wide cuffs then 2 years later there were no cuffs and just the eyelet lace on the edge.
Oh yes! What another great consideration to add to the pool! A hand sewn hem certainly gives more flexibility in the relm of alterations later!
As a historical sewist, I often will add canvas to the bottom of my hem to give the skirt more swish. But hand sewing a canvas edge is very difficult and thick. So I cut the selvedge off the skirt material and stitch it to the hem top of the canvas. Now I'm hand stitching only the skirt fabric and I don't have any bulk. Evelyn, I love your videos on technique and look forward to your next one.
I hand sew everything that isn't a mockup. I got a spool of bias tape from the thrift store about five years ago and it goes on everything. Hems, bias tape. Cuffs, bias tape. Necks, bias tape. Binding, reinforcing, piping, all bias tape. Thinking about it, I don't know how I haven't run out
🤣 It is the spool that never ends!
Mom bought me a huge bag of sewing notions at an estate sale when I was a teenager. That bag lasted for years! Then when I actually had to buy a notion new, I couldn’t believe how expensive it was and lower quality. Jump ahead 40+ years and I don’t think I will ever run out. I have enough stuff that I don’t ever have to go to the fabric store to buy supplies. I like it that way! 😙
@@judyjennings-gunther4022lucky you
Being short, I was always shortening my hems either by hand or by using the blind hem stitch on my sewing machine. My mother taught me to sew and she was always showing me new short cuts, i.e. hemming stitch on the sewing machine. That alone opened up a whole new world 🌎 for me. I got really good at it.
A faced hem is also advantageous when considering how to cut out your project, if you haven't got sufficient length in the fabric for a desired wider hem. I ran into that dilemma when making a coat from a piece of fabric that was given to me and therefore had to work hard at getting the all the pieces to fit. It was also a curved hem so I actually pieced fabric scraps to create the facing.
Right! A hem facing it like a little sewing hack for when you don't have quite enough on your layout!
I never thought of it that way, thanks!
Oops thumbs down was done by my rogue thumb 😂. Not intended
@@pmc8453You can just tap it again to undo it.
When I was a newbie (some forty years ago) one of my first projects was a blouse with a shirt hem. I never did get that hem to be pleasing to me. After several years of avoiding a rounded edge hem I discovered that I could face the hem. What a revolution! I was able then to make shirt after shirt with my favorite hemline! I’m so grateful to you for sharing your expertise with young sewists!
One of my first projects was a circle client. To say I had a lettuce hem would be a huge understatement! I went back and rehemmed it with bias tape, and I can wear it still now.
I'm so pleased to hear that you went back to that sewing nemesis, armed with more experience, and could see the issue right away and turn it into a winner! 😀 It's so good when this happens right!
@@katherinemorelle7115 Hello, Ms. Morelle--may I ask what a lettuce hem is or what it looks like?? I have an idea but not sure... Thanks!
Watching this and thinking of all the garments and projects I have "murdered" 😄 for not hemming accordingly, yeah they looked cheap...ended up being sunday's pyjamas, but hey...I' ve learned, my garments look a lot better now (and will even more after this video) I wear them everyday, I like them, people like them and the best compliment of all: my teen son shows off his jeans jacket that his momma made for him with his friends and rocks it every where he goes. 💗 thank you for helping me improve.
🥰 Awww it makes my day to hear about your sewing successes! Each garment we make is practice for the next one!
Talking about catching a heel in a hand-sewn hem! I did that so often with midi skirts when I worked at a bank 😿. In the summer I live in dresses made from quilting cotton that go through the washer and dryer. I usually machine hem those. I save my hand hemming and sewing for when I have a video I want to watch. Hand hemming a circle skirt is tedious, but the results are worth it.
I agree, washer and dryer items are usually a machine sew for me too!
I worked in a dress makers shop about 40 yrs ago. I was the person who did all of the hand sewing. It would take me less than 1/2 hr to sew a zipper in by hand and to hem a pair of pants. I decided at some point that I would do this for myself. When I sew anything by hand I sit on the couch and watch a movie. I usually sew a few things as long as I am settled in.
Great video Evelyn. I find now as I’m getting more experienced that I make these decisions (like how I’m going to hem and accommodate what length I require) right at the very beginning - usually when I read pattern and then definitely in the toile. I didn’t however know about bias binding or hem tape. Can you make a video on that process please? Also then a French turn up hem. Just a few ideas for future videos. Love your work!!
Second that!
Really good information as I have been sewing for many years and always fret about doing the hems. This has helped me to see things more clearly (whether straight or curved style, heavier or lighter fabric) to choose the more appropriate method for hemming. Because the Hem has a huge impact on how the finished garment looks! I have embarked on learning to draft some of my own patterns lately and now appreciate so much more all the sewing information contained in a commercial pattern. so your videos are such a great help for sewers of all ages. Thank you
For facing curved hems, I tend to make them hem a couple inches longer than the garment. Then I cut those inches off and use that as the facing! It fits almost perfectly, you only have to make a couple tucks to gather up the excess length.
Just the video I needed!! Thank you so much!!
I am making a pair of Pajama pants and I'm not following the hem instructions because I want them a bit longer and only got the bare minimum of fabric for what I need. So instead of putting out the slight angle marking the intended hemline, I angled out slightly to a straighter leg so that I can super short hem the leg openings. And who cares how they hang anyway? They're jammie pants!
You are a pure inspiration
🥰 Awww thankyou!
I hadn't thought of the change in grain directions, that makes sense to me now. I like the idea of a hem facing for thicker fabrics cut on the bias. Can't wait to try it. Thanks for all the great tips.
My pleasure! Is love to hear how it goes for you !
@@Evelyn__Wood Ms. Wood, may I ask you to do a segment on how to make a self-facing hem like you are talking about, please?? Thanks in advance!
Evelyn, great tips and reminders for every sewer.
What is my biggest trouble with hemming? The fact that I *HAVE* to hem. 😅
I 'm a beginner and I don't like hemming at all. Being a plus size only adds to my frustration because when
I look at all the fabric I need to hem, I'm overwhelmed and lay the nearly finished garment down.
I did this last night where the pattern called for a "rolled hem."
The video instructor simply rolled the hem twice with her fingers and sewed it perfectly.
Whereas me....NOT. I tried for a bit, looked at my mess, seam ripped and laid it down.
I've since watched a few techniques that make it seam (pun intended) easier. So,
I will try them. Wish me luck!
So very glad I found you! I've been looking at mother of the groom dresses and am truly disgusted at their quality. Pretty close to making my own with the skills I've learned from you. Thanks!
I like your hairs
I love your stripes. Complex! Great work!
This is amazing tips! Thank you 🥰
One also needs to consider the drape of the hem. A deeper hem can give a light and flowing garment some much-needed wind-proofing. It can also help a heavier garment to hang straight and not roll, turn, or catch on itself. Faced or bias taped or lined hems are excellent techniques to have in the toolbox.
Oh yes! I use a double turn large hem, to wind proof mine alot!
I remember when I came to my first hem when I no longer lived with my parents. My mother is a hard core hand stitch hemmer. I would rather clean the cat's litter box. Any day. Twice a day. It was a floor length circle skirt -- and I realized that I could do more (or less) than hand hemming it. I made a bias tape of the same fabric and bound the edge.
Great info for me! Thanks!
Thanks for this. I am working in my first vintage pattern and it calls for bias tape. I am going to use bias tape! Working with jersey is a bit more challenging.
This was a great video. The information in this video for curved hems is going to be very helpful to me. Thank you for doing this video Evelyn.
Really glad I saw this before hemming my first skirt!!!
Such a wonderful explanation! Another fun video to watch and listen to while I hand quilt! Thanks so much for your inspiration and this video!
I'm short so I'm used to having to take up anything bought or gifted and to shorten all patterns rather severely.
I like giving myself a large hem allowance to hide horsehair braid in it, to give my skirts more fullness.
Some of my winter skirts get fishing sinkers sewn into the hems to ensure no Marilyn Moments when it gets a bit gusty. Fishing sinkers have enough water resistance to tolerate rain and handwashing without leaving rust marks.
I use fishing stinkers in the hems of wool trousers. But I do use a hammer to flatten, being careful not to pound the edges so as not to create a sharp edge that could cut the fabric. I attach with tiny silk bags inside the hem. The weights are made of lead, so the metal is quite pliable and does not rust. But do remember to wash hands well after handling.
This is a trick of The Queen too! 😉 (obviously she doesn't sewn them in thought!)
In Germany you can get round bands of fabric with little metal beads sewn in for use in the 'hem' of curtains, to make them hang more evenly. I've used those in skirt hems to stop them from flying up too much and they are easy to cut and sew. Also, as the metal is completely encased and Not rusting, you can machine wash your garment. Maybe you have something similar where you are.
@@danielahitstheroad we have those in the U.S. also - I call them "sausage weights". But I actually prefer to flatten the fishing weights as they more closely resemble tailors' weights. Both are made with lead, which is why they do not rust.
I just bought a bag of sewing treasures at the thrift store. It had the weighted strips in it. I was going to use it for a curtain hem, but I like your idea about putting it in clothing.
This has come at just the right time as i was wondering on the best method to hem a coat which is in a boucle wool, which will enclose the lining so I’m going to hand stitch as I was thinking that the layers would be too thick and the wrong effect to stitch on the sewing machine ✂️🧵
Great information!
My favorite hem is a narrow bias bound hem (I like 1/2" double fold bias binding best unless the fabric is very thin). I sew the bias binding to the hem (right sides together) flip it over, press, and stitch the hem. It solves the wrinkles with the big round hem skirts and makes them hang better as well. It works with super thin fabric all the way up to thicker woolens. I especially love how the bias bound hem hangs away from my feet so it doesn't get caught around my shoes.
Really interesting. I like viscose lawn dresses and RTW ones always come with tiny tiny hems. As I'm short I have often thought about shortening them and using a bigger hem which might help weight the skirt down slightly (I'm thinking Marilyn Monroe effect in the wind). It's something I'm going to experiment with on some toiles.
When I make a lawn dress, I haven’t yet but I am prepared.......I would use vintage rayon hem tape and sew it by hand . It is so much easier than a double rolled hem.
Thank you! This is so helpful! It totally makes sense using narrow hams on curves (I tried rehemming curved, bottom part of men's shirt because it was originally sewn with contrasted tread I didn't like). Your explanation is so obvious, so simple, I don't know why I didn't think of it! Duh LOL
Loved it , thank you 🙏
Anytime I find vintage rayon hem tape or cotton bias tape I buy it. I use hem tape,of course rayon is my favorite, and hand sew the hem, 99% of the time. So many people machine stitch their hems, and tend not to iron them, which is a dead give away that they are hand made. I think the only time I would do a small, double rolled, machine stitched is if I was using chiffon. But even then, vintage rayon tape is so much easier than a narrow rolled hem. Luckily I have a huge supply!
I'm a hem tape junkie too! I have one in every colour 😀
When I hand stitch a hem I like to use betweens as they are short and fine needles.
I have been using betweens for hand stitching for about 35 years now. I started using them when I took up hand quilting lap quilts. I have much more control over my stitches with betweens than other needles and my stitches look much better.
I have been using betweens for hand stitching for about 35 years now. I started using them when I took up hand quilting lap quilts. I have much more control over my stitches with betweens than other needles and my stitches look much better.
Great video. Don't forget that most machines have a blind hem stitch as well.
Good advice thank you
I have an old hem foot that is awesome on chiffon! Makes a super tiny rolled hem. Super cute and looks great on sheer fabrics, but takes alot of practice to use.
I agree! I find this work great, it is it straight grain and no seams! 😅
@@Evelyn__Wood The hem foot is an old "Simco" one, so I know it's at least vintage if not older. I don't think they make hem foots for such a teeny tiny narrow rolled hem anymore. there are so many great vintage sewing attachments they used to make that I wish they still made.
I need to get one of those.
@@judyjennings-gunther4022 Keep an eye out at second hand stores. If your machine is low shank, it should work. they do make rolled hem feet even now, but I havnt found any thus far that makes an even narrow hem than the vid.
What does your old hem foot look like?
Trying to make a skirt (or a pair of pants) longer without a light line (where the original hem was) showing on the outside is a problem. I have added fabric at the waist line of skirts and pants to get the needed few inches. I then had to alter the seat of the pants. In both cases a long blouse, sweater, or tunic must be worn over the top of the skirt or pants to hide the alterations; because, I can never find a perfect match of the original fabric.
At the begining of the school year, I noticed that one teacher had made her pants longer by sewing wide ruffels on the bottom of her pants. The ruffels were made from the same fabric that her top was made from. This made her a cute matching set to start the new school year in.
Arvetta- you might find Downtown Tailoring RUclips:" lengthening pants 3 ways" helpful. Aida shows how to deal with the line of the former hem.
I just want to say thank you so much for doing this video, I really needed to see some of that it helps a lot, I love this so I've done a lot of hand-sewing since I was very young, I was taught by my grandparents but mostly for pillows and small stuff in the more recent years I've started trying to make my own clothing. I don't use patterns I've never really understood them and for some reason when I watch videos on people using patterns and making patterns I get very confused very quickly I'm going to have to find somebody to show me that in person but I've made a few skirts and I've always had problems with the Hem and the last skirt that I made I even hemmed the side seams cuz I wasn't sure exactly what all I was supposed to be hemming other than the bottom of it I thought all of the edges were supposed to be hemmed I just found out after I made that skirt that there's a better way of doing it. At least for me this is very helpful I've saved it to my most watched videos and the next time I am making something I will definitely look back at this to remember what you said about the hems.
🥰 It makes my day to hear it!
I have recently be given a portable blind hemming sewing machine and tips would be helpful.
I like to add 2-4 inches of netting to the bottom of my skirts and certain cuffs etc where I want a bit of volume
I reclaimed the netting from my prom dress
I’d love to learn how to do those beautiful handkerchief hems..with the pulled threads. Not sure I have the patience though..
My biggest problem is definitely curved hems. I should really bind the edge before I start every time!
I always feel a little smarter after watching your videos. Would you consider making a few on alterating patterns? This is by far my biggest problem.
😄 Join Vintage Sewing School, I have all the pattern alterations in there for you! And if you have any questions about it just email info@evelynwood.com.au
Great tips! I like to use bias strips cut from the same fabric for round hems on wide skirts. I don't like to face them the 'correct' way because most of the time it uses more fabric than those bias strips. Depending on the fabric and style of garment I decide how wide those bias strips should be. (last time I used 10 cm wide ones on a edwardian inspired ankle length walking skirt made from linen)
A facing can be from bias tape, you make your own rules! 😀
Often for a curved hem I will overlock the edge with the tension adjusted so it gathers/eases in the edge just a bit. Then when I find I can fold it then sew. Yes it means you can see the overlocking if your skirt flies up, so would not do on a fancy garment, but perfectly fine for my everyday items.
I saw this on a custom dress I had made and tried it out.
A-line skirts/dresses are a pain though, especially school dresses. I tend to use a blind hem foot, then have to pleat in the excess at the side (front and back are straight across, the shaping is in the side panels). Often I have 2 or more to take up, so using the machine rather than hand sewing really helps.
I've never even thought of a faced hem, but sewing wools this winter I'll definitely use it!
Perfect for winter woolly skirts!
Using hem tape on wool makes a much nicer, flatter hem.
I have just completed a gathered skirt with my preferred narrow waistband in a batik print rayon. I chose to hem with double fold fabric, wide hem, hand stitched for the neater finish. Choosing this hem was as I wanted the extra weight for the reasonably full gather, lightweight material. Thank you for this video....great timimg!
Are you a good sewer?
I recently finished my skirt with a wider hem and tape since its a middle weight, pinstriped wool. I took the time to stitch it down by hand to make it as invisible as possible. But the 2 blouses are probably going to be small machine stitched hems.
I generally do a bias-faced hem on a dress or skirt (whether knit or woven), narrow double-turned hand-hem on a jersey top (it has enough stretch), and either a hand or machine narrow double-turned hem on a woven top. I've found that the majority of patterns assume you either can't or don't want to hand-sew!
Thank you for your great video.
Any idea which hem is suitable for FR curtain fabric?
Its hard for hand stitch and not going on blind stich machine.
Hi Evelyn! Do you have any videos on how to machine sew a curved hem? I am 5 feet tall (152 centimeters) and always have to hem my dresses. How do you cut off the excess? I am a beginner sewer. Thank you.
Good morning from Seattle. have a lovely day.
Good morning neighbor, I live across Puget Sound.
Yes skirt or dress hems are always a challenge especially if rounded on sides. I always have issue with dresses that are silky and need to be hand hemmed but you can still see the hem once done??
Evelyn I just watched your video regarding your Juki 9000b. I found that it was discontinued. The choices are overwhelming I would like your advice. How is the machine serviced when it is placed in a cabinet. I loved the features of your juki.
Thanks for all the details 👍🏼🎈
Do you have a video for minute 7:07 in "action" how to hide ?
Do you have a video on how to use hem tape??
Horsehair braid for fuller skirts?
Do you have a hem suggestion for a pencil skirt with a lining? The skirt fabric is poly rayon twill (heavy in weight) and the lining is 100% polyester. I think I will need a wide hem on the skirt and most likely machine stitched as this will be an active garment. My guess is I will do a narrow hem on the lining as the lining was cut slightly shorter than the actual skirt fabric. The pattern I am using just says hem skirt to finish. It doesn't mention skirt lining or how to attach the lining to the skirt (if needed) after the hem.
I recently made a very full long dress for a 4 year old. The hem was roughly 3 metres around. I wanted a large hem so it could be let down as the child grew, however, as you pointed out that meant I had to ease in a lot of fabric which I did by using basting stitches to slightly gather it before hand-hemming. Is there a better way to do a "growth-hem" I will call it?
I promise!
I look forward to hearing about it Polly! 😀
Your amazing
I got a shirt that was just too long. I'm tall ish at 6'1'' so sometimes I get xltall shirts, but sometimes they look like dresses. I got a "pique" shirt? Not sure if that is what it was... I think of the fabric as typical for dress casual-dress shirts. Like the ones with little icons on the chest. Since I'm trying to learn to sew I thought I would cut it and then re-hem it. It was a success, but as I've washed it, the hem has curled a lot. I'm not sure if I've explained it well, but I'm wondering what sort of hem I should have used to keep it from curling. I used a machine stitch. Love your videos!
Yes, I would like to know about this too. Thanks for mentioning it. One of my favourite shirts does that and I have tried to fix it without success.
Tony do you mean it was a knit fabric??
@@Evelyn__Wood Yes, I think that's what it is. I look at it really close and it's certainly not a woven cloth.
Hi Evelyn, how do you deal with a compound curve like at the bottom of a blouse? These are really hard for me, even when I try to make it narrow.
I’ve been trying to make a dress out of a light fabric, and the pattern instructs me to make a very narrow rolled hem on all the curves - but I just haven’t been able to make it happen without warping the fabric :( I’ve tried the finger press method, the hand stitching method, and a narrow hem foot (three different sizes!), but I just can’t seem to get it to lay flat. :( what do you recommend?
hello Evelyn from chilly Cape Town, Sstretchy material without getting that wavy hem. could you do a hem lesson on different fabric types please. Debbie xx
I have a question, which is generally related instead of the video topic, would a cheat sheet of my own measurements be helpful, for example, wrist size, length of torso, arms, waist etc
I’m a beginner planning to start sewing so I don’t know if this is a common thing, but it sounds helpful in my mind! maybe even written, that way I’d could easily possibly adjust projects to fit the way I’d like? or do you recommend just remeasuring with every project
I keep a "cheat sheet" paper clipped to the front page of my sewing journal but I still periodically measure myself to make sure the measurements are still accurate. Weight fluctuations and aging can alter your measurements so don't get too attached to those numbers lol.
@@nataliestanchevski4628 thank you!!
I’ve always hand sew my hems, but I hate it!
So I’m trying to learn other ways to sew the bloody hem!
😃
No matter how carefully I try, I cannot make a curved shirt hem without tiny ripples. I'll try hem tape next time!
Hell0 Evelyn wood how join your school and how much
🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰
I’m sorry to go off topi again Evelyn. Did you buy the juki at a dealer?
I always use a narrow hem on my skirts and pinafores. Part of it is habit, part of it is hating the waste of fabric. And that includes wool.
Waiiiit whats that vintage kinda hem where you gather the extra fabric in a round hem tape ?????
Yay top 10 comments and top 15 likes. Also thanks for the video I enjoyed watching it
Did you learned from it
I wish you get where you aim to
*sees video title*
Wait, there's more than one kind of hem?
I can't believe you have nothing on hemming pants with a sewing machine... ? Setting or anything... ? Can you help? lol
wow, I think you finally ran out of new looks to ware for these posts. It took more than 100 videos
helo