Beginner here, I tried to felled a seam on a linen tuniek, and cut off the one seam too far. It is near impossible to get the other side around it.. It has been lying there now for months, till I get the courage together to try again. Meanwhile I am doing other things to improve my skills.. Thank you so much for this video, I have learned a lot! And thank you for all the others, I am learning a ton from you! Being 57 years old, I was told I can't sew by my mother, and when I went to a sewing class, the lady threw a pattern at me that made no sense to me. She too said, sewing, it is not for me. But, I am wearing my own made clothes now, be it only indoor sofar.. lol. At least it is warm and comfy! I will learn more, I am sure! Much love!
When I realised that you had to finish ALL of your seams on a garment, it dawned on me that sewing was not such a "quick and easy" past time. Still enjoyable.
Another illusion shattered: I’ll save so much money by making my own clothes! Lol! I think you do save money compared to buying comparative quality once you gain skills but if your aim is just to not be naked, then not so much
I am a beginner who has been studying how to sew before I actually start, so I can avoid as many behinner mistakes as I can ^^; I've been binging all your videos, they are so helpful and you're so good at engaging with your audience. I never find myself bored. Thank you so much, Evelyn ❤ And I live your sense of style!
I’m doing the same thing. I’m a beginner too and I’m watching all the videos I can before I even start sewing. And I’ve been buying the must have tools (other than a serger because I can’t afford one of those).
Learning theory beforehand is great, but actually getting into it and making mistakes, and learning how the fabrics work is pretty darn helpful! I learned on a treadle machine making doll clothes from patterns my Granny made from newspaper when I was 7 or 8. Buy cheap or thrifted fabrics and make something simple like a shopping bag! It’s just like reading. Learn your ABCs first and then pick up a book. There’s nothing like hands on learning. It’s a lot of fun. I still learn something new when I sit down to do another project!
Also don’t forget the used market. Most sewing machine shops sell trade ins that’s where I got mine in the 80’s and I’m still using it! My serger was new in 1989 and is still going! You don’t need all the bells and whistles to sew. Sergers are great when your making form fit diapers and modern bathing suits. But as long as you have a zigzag you can make a bathing suit! Lycra doesn’t fray so seam finishing isn’t a problem. Thread tension is the tricky part!
Awww I'm so happy to hear you love the videos! I think your study will serve you very well and your on the right track for sure 😃 And don't forget that practice is what really makes a great sewist! Mistakes are part of the process too and it's how we really learn 😘 Happy sewing!
Really new sewer here. My biggest finishing mistake was actually the very first step of a project. My grandma has been teaching me to sew, and she told me to be sure to pre-shrink fabric when you're using multiple types of fabric on one garment because you don't want them to shrink unevenly. Well, I took all my nice fabric to the laundry mat, got it going. Came out of the wash, threw it in the dryer without really looking at it . . . and it was a frayed mess when it came out of the dryer! I didn't think about zig-zagging the edge of the fabric before I washed it so it wouldn't fray. I lost a couple inches of fabric all the way around, and I had to give it a "haircut" and trim off all the tangled, frayed edges. I will not be making that mistake again!
It's well worth the investment, if you ask me. The amount of time and effort, it saves you...man. And everything just looks neat and tidy. I mean, I made do without one for years, too...back in the 90s and early 2000s they were still more of a luxury item here...but I would never want to be without one, again. And putting together a simple jersey dress or shirt for summer is just a breeze. I always hated sewing jersey in my sewing machine 😆
@@raraavis7782 It is totally on my list. Just got a few other things above it right now ❤ we live off grid...and didn't even have the ability to run a powered machine until recently. Until then I did everything on my treadle machine and by hand. I now have an old electric singer that is very basic, but gets the job done really well ❤
@@barefootwildflowers3209 My mother was a professional seamstress and her full metal Singer workhorse could only do forward, backward and zickzack, as well. And her clothes always looked impeccable. So don't let it stop you 😉
The serger definitely helps with knits, but really isn't at all necessary for wovens. Your actual skills are much more important for producing well made clothing than serged seams. I'm also a stickler for matching thread, so the idea of finishing everything faster with gray thread just isn't acceptable to me, so if you have to buy massive amounts of thread or spend time winding thread onto bobbins and then rethreading the machine for each project - where's the big savings of time?
@@rebeccacamacho-sobczak4282 I made my wedding dress at 17...I am going to pull it out of storage soon and look at all the things I did wrong 🤣🤦♀️🤣🤦♀️🤣🤦♀️🤣🤦♀️
A couple of thoughts... Some sewing machines have an "overlock" function and it's really nice. It's not fast at all but you get to reap most of the other benefits of overlocking without owning a second machine. My preferred seam finish is a bit off the beaten path. I guess it could be called a "hybrid-French seam". I sew normally, press the seams open, then turn them in, pressing them closed, clamp shut with binder clips, and then zig-zag on top of the little sandwich. I've never had one fail yet and it seems to work well with light and medium weights.
I thought its only me who has improvised this seams.narrow hem gives a neater finished and doing zigzag on top ensures that even inside the hem no threads will unravel.
Ah, pinking shears - I still use my 94 year old aunt's pinking shears, which she gave to me many years ago. They cost her £3/7 ($6-70 a small fortune back then) and are still in the original box. I keep all my off cuts to test finishes and button holes. I saw your posting on testing and thought it was just one of my own quirks.
Some how I forgot to finish a short seam in a blouse when I was taking a required Home Economics Class back in High School. Rather than take all the seams near it out, to get to that short seam, I used a needle and thread to hand finish that seam with blanket stitches. My teacher took points away from my grade for doing this. The blanket stitches lasted as long as the zig-zag stitches and looked better.
Don't feel bad about home ec classes, I wound up teaching the classes whenever we got to the sewing parts, and I had all of 5 or 6 garments under my belt at the time. Kinda like my French teacher who took several seniors to France one summer. She actually came back into class that fall and told us not one person she spoke to in France could understand anything she said! Tenure isn't always a good thing.
Arvetta, I like your seam finishing fix-it! I,too, had at least ONE home Ec teacher that had a hard time with my (learned from Mom) make-do ways! She really balked at the idea of me using a discontinued pattern that was not my size as well as a piece of fabric that wasn't enough according to the pattern envelope! It did however work but I cannot remember what kind of grade I got for that double knit dress with a bound buttonhole project! It was 40 plus years ago!
I once made the mistake of trying to use French seams on a thick fabric and it made my machine work so hard that it blew a fuse 😬 luckily repairs were still covered by the warranty, but regardless you should be smarter than past me and use the correct finishings
I recently made a pair of linen pants with a piece of thrifted fabric I had been waiting to use on just the right project.....I was so proud. I was pressing the waistband when I noticed I had forgotten to serge the seam around the pocket edges. I foolishly believed I could still manage it with great care. I took great care and still managed slice into the leg of the pants...on both sides just to make it more fun. That was about a week ago and I think I have finally forgiven myself and will attempt to mend the areas by patching and darning. They are small areas that I think are inconspicuous. Lesson learned.
🙈🙈🙈 I've done that, multiple times, while trying to alter thrifted clothes to fit me without completely taking them apart because I'm a sewing newbie and wouldn't know how to put them back together... You could say I've learned to really pay attention to keep the rest of the fabric awaayyy from the blade when I serge seams 😅.
I took the free crash course at Vintage Sewing School and it was so helpful and clear and enjoyable that I couldn’t become a full member quickly enough! If anyone watching this video is considering checking out Evelyn’s courses, I highly recommend you do so. There is no credit card required for the crash course, as with most “free” offerings, Evelyn wants you to enroll in full membership because you want to, not because you forgot to cancel some trial membership. Okay, I’m done gushing.💚
Many household sewing machines come with a special overcasting or "serge" foot. It has a little metal finger to prevent the bunching of zigzagged seams. This is a game changer, especially when used with a stitch that hast at least two stitches across, such as the triple zigzag or a "mock overlock" stitch. Sometimes I use that instead of my serger when the seams have awkward angles and curves. It holds up at least as well as a true overlock binding.
@@its_me_jen_jen9204 Just trim the seam allowance, select your stitch and position the presser foot so that the outside stitch is just outside of the fabric. At least on my machine there is no need to adjust the thread tensions. If the rightmost stitch appears to be a bit loose, it will be just right after ironing.
I've only recently learned that I need to finish seams, lol. I do find that sewing binding on the armhole-sleeve seams on medium to heavy weight fabrics has helped my garments be more neat. It also gives a little structure to the shoulders.
My preference has been French seams for lighterweight fabrics and flat felled for anything too bulky for French seam. I almost exclusively hand sew because I like to sit watching tv while sewing. So those are my go-to’s simply for that reason! Now that I’m used to it it’s hard to use anything else. If the fabric is extra bulky I whip the inside edge shut instead of top stitching it shut.
Getting an overlocker surely made my garments look more nice and the survival ratio after washing them got much higher. I used to zigzag before that, but it's just not as sturdy a finish...
Hmmmmmm.....almost 50 years of sewing and never a single failed seam with zigzag finish. Not once. 3 stitch zigzag prevents tunneling. Zig zag stitching also is always less bulky than overlocking because much less thread is used. I've even seen bespoke mens' trousers finished with a zigzag finish. Pinking? Why bother? Only good reason to pink is on heavy overcoat type woolens. Also, no quicker way for garment to look "homemade" than for pinked edges to show through a lighter weight fabric. I've always used hongkong finish strictly for unlined jackets. Only three layers of silk so as to reduce bulk. The silk on the backside is left raw as cutting on the bias reduces fraying. Once the seam is pressed open the unfinished side does not show. Also rather quick to do this way rather than a full 4 thickness binding.
@@cliftonmcnalley8469 Well, those zizagged raw edges always displayed a minimum of fraying, which made them less neat and more prone to further fraying. I do understand that an overlocked edge can become a bit bulky, however I prefer to keep the sturdiness of 3 or 4 threads and use something like thin serafil thread in those cases, rather than using a zigzag stitch. And if even that serafil would be too bulky (let's say I would be making myself a pair of boxershorts in a very light chiffon...) I would personnally turn to a french seam. Maybe that's because my zigzagging was never as neat as it should have been... It's not just the 3 or 4 threads of the overlocker that do it for me. It's the combination of that and the fact that the looper threads meet exactly on the edge that is made instantly by it's blade.
@@bartd4800 I actually only use a zigzagged finish where others use a serger/overlocker. I use a plain zigzag, a 3 stitch zigzag, a turned edge zigzag (instead of just straight stitching a turned edge), a felled seam, a french seam, a hongkong finish and a bound edge(usually just on the fly where extra durability is also needed). I decide on seam finishes based on the type of garment and type of fabric for each project. I have never had a zigzagged seam disintegrate in the wash, nor have threads come loose from the fabric edges, the width and length of the zigzag used prevents it all. I grew up in a time where serged seams were a sign of cheaply produced clothing. Better clothing had actual seam allowances, serged seams really don't. Plus, having studied clothing construction as the plethora of foreign made "fast fashion" was at its infancy, I learned that sergers were invented specifically to produce cheaper clothing faster. At that same time, higher end designer clothing sold in upper end department stores often had no seam finish at all to reduce bulk. This was the early 80's. Serging = cheap to me, because I know better. Anyone that has grown up later sees serging as "professional" because that is how almost all factory clothing is now made. I did purchase a pair of trousers 7 or 8 years ago, in an emergency situation for $40 - not a "sale" price. They had generous seam allowances and all of them were bound! So odd! Unfortunately like everything else OTR, they didn't actually fit. After getting me thru the emergency they went to Goodwill. If I were sewing for a living, I would probably use a serger just to finish edges and I wouldn't be so finicky about color matching the thread, but as I only sew for me, the serger is reserved for t-shirt duty.
@@cliftonmcnalley8469 I understand that for you (for historical reasons) there is a mental link between overlockers and fast fashion. However, for me (as I probably never did a good job zigzagging properly and using an overlocker makes my clothes last longer...) there is a link between my overlocker and the fact that the fashion I sew for myself got slower. It's true that using my overlocker also speeds up my sewing process. But that doesn't turn the clothes I make into fast fashion... So yeah, good for you that you're a champ at zigzagging. But not everybody is... and for those people an overlocker might just make their clothes more sturdy, which makes the kind of fashion they belong to... slower. Whether a garment is fast or slow fashion is not determined that much by the machines used during the production process (although I must say I use secondhand machines myself...), nor by the speed of the production process, but rather by the sustainability of the materials and by how long the life-cycle of the garment itself will last. (BTW, my vintage Bernina Record 530 doesn't boast a 3 stitch zigzag... yet another reason for me to turn to my overlocker...)
I started sewing with historical garments so I was chucked in the deep end when it comes to seam finishes. On my first garment I had to use French seams. On my 2nd it was flat felled 😂 I love a neat finish
I'm an overlocker convert, for sure. I made do without one for years, but they're such a game changer... I still do french seams occasionally, but that's pretty much it. Overlocking is fast, reliable and tidy. And sewing stretchy fabric suddenly isn't a nightmare anymore...and I quite like jersey dresses and such in summer.
When I was a young girl and first learning I pinked into not only my seam allowance but a triangle hole into the garment. I stopped using pinking shears and went to zigzagging after that. Nowadays I usually overlock, but can do flat felled and prefer it for men’s shirts,
Zig-zagging with an overlock foot on my regular machine is my go-to seam finish because I'm lazy! My biggest mistake was neglecting to trim the seam allowance on a set of French seams. So unsightly, totally defeated the purpose of choosing French seams in the first place!
Zig-zag, oh me too. I cut my seam down, then zig-zag, looks almost like a serger. I wish I could get a serger but I just don't have the room for yet another machine.
This was very informative 👏!!! When I first started sewing I bought a beautiful and expensive Chinoiserie fabric to use as part of a costume. I pinked it, used liquid fray check, and watched it unravel right in front of my eyes! Lesson learned the hard way!!
My first flat felled seam was one of those “wing it” tries….it was not pretty!!! The worst was being lazy and doing no finish….OMG..the inside became a stringy rag after the first wash. Lesson learned the hard way!
I once used the turn and stitch finish on the side seams of a skirt, only to discover that the slight extra bulk created a visible lump on each side of the seams on the good side when pressed. Obviously the wrong seam finish for this fabric. Love the video, as always!
Even though I still have a lot of stress cutting my fabric, these type of video's help me get a feeling that that I can do it and make a great garment.
My sewing journey started of watching these videos from this lady. I knew nothing and understood nothing. Many thanks to her my knowledge and skill set in sewing now is dangerous. Keep making videos for people like me, that come from nowhere. Thank you Evelyn 🤍🤍🤍🤍
Another wonderful video. I now live off grid and have a very old treadle machine, so I love French seams which take away all the wispy threads forever! Been sewing, self taught, for many decades and have had the experience of pulling out a lovely, delicate, painstakingly-home-made garment from the washing machine only to find it in shreds because I used the wrong seam AND should have hand washed. Wish I'd had the internet and you when I was younger!! Love your channel. Thanks for being there. 😊😊💕
I've recently had a minor disaster with French seams. I'm sewing a raglan sleeved blouse, but instead of making it in one go I'm experimenting with sewing for half an hour or so after work. I remembered to sew it wrong sides together, but forgot to reduce the seam allowance to account for the double seam until after I cut the seam allowance. Thankfully the blouse has a gathered neck, it just won't be as gathered as per the pattern, and the sleeves are very full so it should still fit! I think the flat felled seam is the only one I've not tried yet.
Not doing finishes! My favorite homemade skirt now has a fluffy fringe around the pockets and along the seams. Thankfully it's on the inside and the fabric isn't sheer, but I am worried that it isn't as structurally sound as it could be.
When I first started sewing I used to do "overcasting" by hand like my mother taught me. It took as long to finish the seams as it did to make the garment in the first place 😱 When I discovered how to use the overcasting foot on my new sewing machine it was a game changer! I also like French seams where appropriate. Best of all are stable knit fabrics that don't fray and don't need any kind of finishing! 🤣
Yeah, I had a bit of trouble trying to remember to sew the seams wrong sides together the first few times I did a french seam! Working on flat felled seams right now and they are less bulky than french seams for sure & look nice!
Yeah, wrong sides together, goes against your sewing instincts doesn't it? I'm going to make a tissue linen shirt, trying French seams for the first time. Going to be so pretty.
I bought an overlocker from Aldi ( Aldi sewing machines and overlockers are Janome rebrand, excellent quality and only half the price of Janome ones) in 2018 after a year learning sewing . and it’s one of my best Aldi purchase and sewing investments. It has made my homemade garment looks very professional and it survives in the washing machine. And btw I went to op shops that are a bit far from my home last week and I got so many second hand fabric( majority of them are doona covers, sheets, but they are floral so I thought they would be perfect for pretty lining) and sewing accessories
I loathe overlockers so I use pinking shears on cottons and then sew along the edge. On almost everything else I just zig zag. I have had no more disasters with this than purchased garments with overlocked seams. I feel like off the rack clothes are so badly sewn most of the time. Thanks again Evelyn for a great overview.
I'm watching this while making the Lichen Duster (Sew Liberated) in a heavy-ish linen, using a combination of hand-felled seams and contrast-bound seams (with binding I made myself from lightweight woven viscose). So a classic example of an exposed interior to a loose jacket :)
I once made a Halloween costume for my daughter that had a cheap polyester brocade fabric for the top of the dress. That fabric frayed like crazy, like it would just disintegrate if you breathed in its direction. Handling it at all was a nightmare, and I was super careful too. Just getting the pieces sewn together caused the 5/8" seam allowance to shrink to a 3/8" seam allowance, then as I tried to get the edges zigzagged it shrank to a 1/4" seam allowance in most places. At the end of the night after my daughter wore the dress the seam was actually pulling apart under the arms because the zigzag wasn't enough to stop the fraying. Fortunately you couldn't see it until she took it off and it was a costume she was only going to wear once. If I had to do it all over over again? I probably wouldn't have bought that fabric in the first place, lol! However, I think I bought it because it had the right look and it was in my budget, so if I did work with it again I would either fray check everything or cut all the pieces as a single layer of fabric and "cut" it out using a heat tool of some kind. That fabric was a little too thick to do a french seam, and I'm sure it would have unraveled far too fast to do a hand felled seam. Maybe a bound seam would have worked with the utmost care, but it would have been a real trick to get the seams bound before they had a chance to disintegrate. Melting or gluing the edges are the best options I can think of for such a terrible fabric.
What a nightmare!! This is a good example where there's always an exception to the rule. So instead, you could cut the pieces out and then finish them entirely before you sew. That way they are handled the least to minimise fraying. It's not a great way to do it, but it's still better than jabbering the seams fray out and seam allowances disappear 😃
Seam finishes have always kept me from making my own clothes and sticking only to quilting. After watching a few of your videos I'm going to get back in to apparel sewing because my body just doesn't want to wear anything off the shelf anymore. I have a serger and never even use it so I'll start putting it to use. Thanks so much for your videos.
My first French Seams... OOOOF. I did not fully encase them like I thought I had and... yeah. The edge stuck out of EVERY seam. Ugh. I have definitely saved this video for reference!
My tuppence-worth: From bitter experience, viscose needs an enclosed seam finish! Sometimes I love doing a bound (HK) finish in a totally wacky contrast to an unlined garment. I agree that planning is everything: if, for example, a careful choice of binding, such as bias cut silk is used on a fine fabric, it can add needed weight and even enough structure to stop droopiness ( I’m also thinking of substitutions for weights / chains to hold skirts down, where they may be just too heavy or rigid)
My mistake was using a cotton tape (the thick, open weave ones) to bind the seams on my wool walking skirt- and by machine to boot! My machine hated it, and it looked gathered and messy. So I’m now redoing those seams with a cotton bias binding, by hand. They are looking much nicer.
A hongkong finish is much nicer on a wool skirt than a fully bound seam because it's less bulky. I use thrifted mens' neckties to finish seams. I only buy 100% silk, disassemble, washed usually press dry with a dry iron. I use a rotary cutter to cut the strips and buy coordinating tie colors for each project. The prints are fun and look interesting when they show. The ties are cut on the bias to begin with, so the backside of the Hong Kong finish won't unravel. There are numerous "not very good examples" of how to do a HK finish on RUclips - including one from a certain magazine. However, House of Miss Sew has a video, "Creating a Hong Kong Seam Finish", which is really quite good. She demonstrates using purchased cotton seam binding. The only thing I would do different is I would not trim as close as she did, there needs to be about an 1/8" of allowance left on the backside. A silk HK finish is really nice for wool.
@@cliftonmcnalley8469 I love to get silk ties from thrift shops. Now I know what to do with them. I did not know that they are cut on the bias. Learn something new every day, don't we? Thank you for the information
I forgot to add that the interfacing in a tie makes a great sleeve header for a jacket, but one tie will usually only make one header. However there are only 2 or 3 different kinds of interfacing, so it doesn't take long to get matched pairs.
I have sewed many garments as a teenager and when my children were toddlers…… many years ago. At 68 I’m getting back to sewing again. I even got myself a new sewing machine and a serger. I’m struggling a little with many aspects of sewing in order to make a professional finish. I appreciate your videos very much and I’m so glad I discovered you on RUclips.
Ha. Same age as you and just bought a new sewing machine too - mine’s a vintage Singer 201. Love it! Just bought my first pattern in 30 years and some bias binding. Never used to finish my seams. Now’s my chance to get into better habits.
I've watched so many of your videos and I think this one is my favourite! Having all this info here in one video is so helpful - I've been sewing for 30 years but I still hadn't got my head around which seam finishes are good for which garment/fabric. Now I get it! Thank you so much!
Hi Evelyn! I live in Portugal and the lady that thought me how to sew also called French seams English seams. But I think that was only her. Everybody tells me English seams are the ones like the ones in jeans and French seams like the ones you showed.
I like to have fun with my bound seams. I buy used silk saris from Etsy, and use those to make binding strips. If I'm going to the trouble of binding seams, I want that beautiful pop of color.
I try to use the zig zag on any seam edges that I can. I run out a test strip and see what happens/works with the material. Quick and easy check! No wasted effort and keeps me out of trouble! I use the same setup for my hems in blue jeans and trousers. Okay, they're hems, not Seams, but we have to do something with the raw cut edges....no pinking shears in my sewing kit.... yet!
I sewed a summer skirt from hopsack linen last summer, and for some reason I thought just zigzaging the edges would be enough?!? The first time I washed it, the pocket fell out, the waist band frayed off in the front, and the area right below it started fraying too. What a mess. Also, thank you for sharing the bound seam tip! I'm a sucker for 60s looseweave tweeds because of their colors and availability at antique stores, but I haven't yet worked up the courage to use them for fear of fraying! Now I can have all the lovely cozy mod things my heart desires!
I have a 1941 singer and I will be making a super elegant top with some high sheen brocade. I don’t have an overlock machine so I’m going to have to do French seams MAYBE with Hong Kong finishing for the waist. It’s a looser fitting top so it should be just fine! 👍🏻
I was stressed about finishing the seams on the “Frozen” Dress overlay. The instructions said to stitch and then stitch again 1/4” away and trim to stitching. I fought this because I thought “no way” was this going to look good. To my surprise it looked beautiful. I was impressed …….. #1 with this method and #2 following the instructions. LOL.
My worst seam finish desaster I actually had a few weeks ago. I finished a culotte with a french seam because the viskose fabric was too delicate for the serger, and after washing it all the seams started to fray like mad. Luckily I could feed these thick seams trough the serger, the four layers where heavy enough. This fabric was a nightmare but sooo beautyful.
When I started sewing I learned to zigzag all the pattern pieces once cut out. Then I got lazy and stopped that. Recently I did French seam and felled seam by "accident" because of the fraying. Now I focus on the seam finish based on what kind of look I want for the garment. One day I will have an overlocker....
I'm relatively new to sewing and my favourite disaster was a shirt I made where I thought my new vintage pinking shears would look really tidy... They were blunt and I couldn't get through the fabric very well and realised that they would probably fray in the wash! I have a Singer 201 which of course doesn't do zig zags but I also have an attachment for that which moves the fabric as opposed to the needle itself .. what a mess! It wobbled all over the place... As a final insult, the shirt was far to small! Clearly didn't think anything through 😂 gave it to a friend who was the right size, he loved it and didn't notice the errors. Lessons learnt: always do a mock up, get the scissors sharpened regularly and actually plan seam finishes...
Most of my patterns say to press seams open so that is what I do and I like that the seam lays flat-pinking shears are still good for flat seams. I use closed seam types for pillowcases etc but just don’t like the look or feel of any closed seam in garments. Zigzag on each edge separately are also fairly okay to keep flat depending on fabric used. Just my experience and opinion. The polyester double knits of the 70’s were a dream to sew, launder, and didn’t show wear for years. Of course the cotton lobby was not a fan of clothes that wore forever. ☺️
I really dislike the zigzag because mine never turn out pretty and also I used them on everything until now (this video is a game changer). I sewed the covers from the sitting banks I made and I used the zigzag on the weavy fabric (it was the only one I knew of) and of course after one washing they started getting undone. 😒🙄 but now I know better thanks to you. 😊 After 3 videos only you got me to follow you. 😇
So nice to have so many kinds of seam finishes all in one vid for easy reference. I quite like using the turn and stitch, since its pretty forgiving to add pockets into the seam when you forget during initial construction.
Such a useful video! I'd love some tips for how you finish seams on a curve like shoulder/sleeve joins where you snip the seam allowance with scissors to allow the fabric to curve (if you know what I mean!). I always end up using pinking shears on those as you would end up snipping through your seam finish!
I have often used a serger for thin fabrics that are hard to control, I do a lot of heirloom sewing for my granddaughter, lightweight lawns, cottons and linens with the narrowest finish on the outside! Then I enclose them in a French seam! Cheating but sometimes I’m behind on getting them to her!
Josie and Aimee- Bias binding along curved edges works best if the edge to attach first is pressed open while gently shaping it in a convex curve. When sewing it on do not stretch it. Press seam towards the binding then press bound edge on the inside, being careful to maintain an even width. Finish by hand or machine stitching binding to the garment. Having made quite a number of items with binding and attempted numerous shortcuts, the "extra" time is well spent.
I once made an entire garment where the outer layer and lining were French seamed together. I had no concept of bagging-out linings then. That is 8 layers of fabric - somehow my poor machine survived! I still love French seams and use them even on medium weight garments and curves. The others are all too time -consuming (hand-felled seams), do not work well with modern washing machines, or are a nightmare to mend (looking at you, overlocker . . .).
Hand felled seams are definitely my favorite when it comes to durability and clean insides. That said I can be very lazy so I often just do a zigzag stitch for anything that has longer seams (especially for trouser side seams).
Hi Evelyn, Thank you so much for this tutorial. I’m in the process of making a double face coat (faux fur inside and velours outside). At first I was thinking of doing the “French“ seam but after watching your video I’ll do the bound seam. I’ve used this technique in the past and clearly the look is so very professional.
My first machine sewed in a straight line, so I learnt all the seam finishes. These days I own an overlocker, but don't use it that much. I do use it to finish the cut ends of fabric before prewashing and sometimes if I am constructing a knit garment. I don't have any real seam finishing disasters, or maybe I just don't remember the early days well enough.
I usually did the zigzag finish or the fold in and sew edges. Purchasing an overlocker recently was a steep learning curve and game changer for me. Evelyn, I am so glad I am a member of your sewing school because I can learn in detail about every finishing seam type and garment construction after watching these fabulous videos you produce. They are the teaser and you are an amazing teacher. Thank you! ❤️🐾
My worst mistake was trying to pink the edges of a dress that was completely done. I clipped into the skirt part, just below the bust! I never pinked an edge again! In the past I mostly used zigzag stitches and loved flat felled seams on the woolen jackets that I made. I recently bought a serger which I love but I still french seam some of my light weight cottons and rayons. I haven't yet tried a bound seam finish.
These videos are so inspiring to try something new. I'm a french seam person, but I really want to try bound seams. I think one of the other things to consider with seam finishes is whether or not it's easy to access for alterations as well.
Thanks Evelyn, I am in England, and was taught sewing in school in the early'60's we were taught well, a shame that it does not seem to be taught now. I think my worse seam finishes were working with lace on my wedding dress, long enough ago now I do not remember what I did!
I work with light weight fabric alot and a French seam is awesome! I did however do a heavier cotton shirt and the seams got quite bulky with a French seam, so definitely gonna mix it up!
My two most recent projects were vintage (WWII era) maternity dresses in super-fray-ey deadstock rayon. Most of the seams are french seamed, but the sleeve cuffs and facing piece are single fold bias bound (I find it looks cleaner than the turn and stitch method for single-thickness pieces), and the armholes are double fold bias bound (because french seams around an armpit are awful, plus there's a little extra structure that helps the tiny bit of puff on the sleeve stand up). I've found they hold up to machine washing on a delicate cycle, but wouldn't put them in with the normal wash (mostly because of the fabric, not the seam finish).
My first garment with hand-felled seams is holding together fairly well, but if I were to do it again, I would 1) leave myself more seam allowance, 2) especially on the more fray-prone fabric, and 3) iron in the fold for the felled seam before stitching, because it's pretty wibbly inside. Alternatively, you could just learn by my example and *not* make a 22-panel, 21-gore skirt out of quilting jelly roll.
I made a 20 panel sheer skirt for a costume. Of course I had to use French seems and just like you said, I did a lot of unpicking... A few times after I had already sewn the enclosing seem. I still think it was totally worth it. It's a perfect twirling skirt and I love how it turned out
I tend to use a lot of Fray-Check glue on the edges I'm extra worried about. Such as areas that will likely experience a lot more strain and wear. Then I finish them normally however is necessary
My preference is a French seam although I use a zig zag on occasion too. I'm sure there are times when I would do something else but I don't have to use many heavy fabrics because I live in a very hot area.
I just adore the caplet you wear in your opening credits. I am looking to knit or crochet myself one and would love to replicate yours as it is the perfect length and look to just cover bare shoulders. Love your videos!!
Before I got a serger, I tried pinking shears on a linen skirt 😭. Of course, it fell apart in the wash. I was able to piece it back together but it was like sewing the skirt twice. Lesson learned 😂
Last year i was making an overdress for a costume, using brown muslin which was the only fabric i could find in that colour. I was concerned it would be too transparent, so i decided to double it - and "cheat" on finishing each piece - by sewing each piece into a bag and inverting it. Like a French seam on the edge of each piece! It did make the seams a little bulky, especially when i hadn't trimmed enough of the edges. Well, it all went well until i got to sewing in the sleeve ... which had a puff made of an extra piece on the outside... Making a total of twelve layers of my nice, fine muslin at the bottom of the armscye. I had to hand-sew those sleeves in - and then trim so much bulk that my "pre-finish" was completely wasted 😂 Still haven't finished those two seams!
One of my sewing disasters was early on in my sewing life. I didn't prewash my canvas fabric before sewing it into a backpack. When I washed it it shrank up very oddly and frayed a lot. I was about 12 or 13 at the time. My earliest sewing disaster was a needle ended up in my baby sisters knee. I was blamed for it. I didn't know if I lost the needle or if someone else did. Baby sister was fine. The needle worked its way almost to the surface and the doctor was able to easily remove it. The needle was bent a little and that's probably why it worked its way to the surface.
What a great Video! I Love these seam finishes. It took a long time to learn why andhow. But I Love to make the inside look beautiful too. I love the flat felled seam for my Renaissance Faire garments. Makes them so strong and pretty. I literally put a sleeve in my Chemise wrong side out... because the felled seam looked so good. I did not notice for a Few Years... seriously.... years. So clean and finished the flat felled seam looks. :D Great Video.
Wonderful video! Thank you so much, Evelyn! You explained everything perfectly well. I love how carefully you showed us examples, and the pros and cons highlights are excellent.
This is great! If you do more I would love to see how best to use rayon seam binding. I’ve been trying to find information about how best to use it, but just not having any luck. Thanks for making this video.
My funniest mistake was sewing a French seam on accident 😂 and the most frustrating I still have trouble with is cutting fabric- with mirroring and duplicate and what not. - from an extreme beginner who struggles with remembering all the terms!
Toyota used to make an attachment for classic sewing machines that mimics an overlocker. It's called Rubylock and if you have a friend in Japan, they can look for a second-hand one for you ;) Let's create a buzz so the company makes a modern version? :D And try using one of those million decorative stitches for turn and stitch seams. It makes them look super pretty and I found it helps them fray a bit less.
I hope you try a new seam finish! 😃
Develop you your garment sewing skills with me at Vintage Sewing School www.vintagesewingschool.com/
I took your course and what a wealth of info you taught me so much 🙏
Beginner here, I tried to felled a seam on a linen tuniek, and cut off the one seam too far. It is near impossible to get the other side around it.. It has been lying there now for months, till I get the courage together to try again. Meanwhile I am doing other things to improve my skills.. Thank you so much for this video, I have learned a lot! And thank you for all the others, I am learning a ton from you! Being 57 years old, I was told I can't sew by my mother, and when I went to a sewing class, the lady threw a pattern at me that made no sense to me. She too said, sewing, it is not for me. But, I am wearing my own made clothes now, be it only indoor sofar.. lol. At least it is warm and comfy! I will learn more, I am sure! Much love!
When I realised that you had to finish ALL of your seams on a garment, it dawned on me that sewing was not such a "quick and easy" past time. Still enjoyable.
🤣🤣 sounds like the shattered sewing dreams of many! It's definitely NOT quick right!
Another illusion shattered: I’ll save so much money by making my own clothes! Lol!
I think you do save money compared to buying comparative quality once you gain skills but if your aim is just to not be naked, then not so much
@@susanforbes8251 A really great alternative for this is to buy thrifted fabric!
Oh definitely not quick, sewing is a craft indeed.
@@susanforbes8251 "..but if your aim is jot not to be naked.." LOL!!!! too funny and too true!!!
I am a beginner who has been studying how to sew before I actually start, so I can avoid as many behinner mistakes as I can ^^; I've been binging all your videos, they are so helpful and you're so good at engaging with your audience. I never find myself bored. Thank you so much, Evelyn ❤ And I live your sense of style!
I’m doing the same thing. I’m a beginner too and I’m watching all the videos I can before I even start sewing. And I’ve been buying the must have tools (other than a serger because I can’t afford one of those).
I also love Evelyn's videos.
Learning theory beforehand is great, but actually getting into it and making mistakes, and learning how the fabrics work is pretty darn helpful! I learned on a treadle machine making doll clothes from patterns my Granny made from newspaper when I was 7 or 8. Buy cheap or thrifted fabrics and make something simple like a shopping bag! It’s just like reading. Learn your ABCs first and then pick up a book. There’s nothing like hands on learning. It’s a lot of fun. I still learn something new when I sit down to do another project!
Also don’t forget the used market. Most sewing machine shops sell trade ins that’s where I got mine in the 80’s and I’m still using it! My serger was new in 1989 and is still going! You don’t need all the bells and whistles to sew. Sergers are great when your making form fit diapers and modern bathing suits. But as long as you have a zigzag you can make a bathing suit! Lycra doesn’t fray so seam finishing isn’t a problem. Thread tension is the tricky part!
Awww I'm so happy to hear you love the videos! I think your study will serve you very well and your on the right track for sure 😃
And don't forget that practice is what really makes a great sewist! Mistakes are part of the process too and it's how we really learn 😘 Happy sewing!
Really new sewer here. My biggest finishing mistake was actually the very first step of a project. My grandma has been teaching me to sew, and she told me to be sure to pre-shrink fabric when you're using multiple types of fabric on one garment because you don't want them to shrink unevenly.
Well, I took all my nice fabric to the laundry mat, got it going. Came out of the wash, threw it in the dryer without really looking at it . . . and it was a frayed mess when it came out of the dryer! I didn't think about zig-zagging the edge of the fabric before I washed it so it wouldn't fray. I lost a couple inches of fabric all the way around, and I had to give it a "haircut" and trim off all the tangled, frayed edges.
I will not be making that mistake again!
Been there, done that. We learn the hard way.
I’ve done this too! I thought I was being good, washing beforehand and everything, and my fabric was a mess of threads afterwards
Yep, been there also😳
I think we have all done that one!!
I'm glad I'm not alone!
Very useful, thank you. A similar guide to hemming would be great.
That a great idea!! Thanks for the suggestion!
I use a French seam when I can. Zig zag or flat felled when I can't. I'll get a serger someday 🤞
It's well worth the investment, if you ask me. The amount of time and effort, it saves you...man. And everything just looks neat and tidy. I mean, I made do without one for years, too...back in the 90s and early 2000s they were still more of a luxury item here...but I would never want to be without one, again. And putting together a simple jersey dress or shirt for summer is just a breeze. I always hated sewing jersey in my sewing machine 😆
@@raraavis7782 It is totally on my list. Just got a few other things above it right now ❤ we live off grid...and didn't even have the ability to run a powered machine until recently. Until then I did everything on my treadle machine and by hand. I now have an old electric singer that is very basic, but gets the job done really well ❤
@@raraavis7782 I never even bother seeing knits. I get too frustrated 😞🤦♀️🤣🙄
@@barefootwildflowers3209
My mother was a professional seamstress and her full metal Singer workhorse could only do forward, backward and zickzack, as well.
And her clothes always looked impeccable.
So don't let it stop you 😉
The serger definitely helps with knits, but really isn't at all necessary for wovens. Your actual skills are much more important for producing well made clothing than serged seams. I'm also a stickler for matching thread, so the idea of finishing everything faster with gray thread just isn't acceptable to me, so if you have to buy massive amounts of thread or spend time winding thread onto bobbins and then rethreading the machine for each project - where's the big savings of time?
I think my biggest mistake with seam finishes was just not using them. My poor neglected early made things.
Oh dear!😊
Well, when the 'easy' pattern you choose doesn't even mention this, it's hard to know your suppose to do such things right! 😅
I dare say we’ve all been there 😬
You are not the only one!
@@rebeccacamacho-sobczak4282 I made my wedding dress at 17...I am going to pull it out of storage soon and look at all the things I did wrong 🤣🤦♀️🤣🤦♀️🤣🤦♀️🤣🤦♀️
A couple of thoughts...
Some sewing machines have an "overlock" function and it's really nice. It's not fast at all but you get to reap most of the other benefits of overlocking without owning a second machine.
My preferred seam finish is a bit off the beaten path. I guess it could be called a "hybrid-French seam". I sew normally, press the seams open, then turn them in, pressing them closed, clamp shut with binder clips, and then zig-zag on top of the little sandwich. I've never had one fail yet and it seems to work well with light and medium weights.
I thought its only me who has improvised this seams.narrow hem gives a neater finished and doing zigzag on top ensures that even inside the hem no threads will unravel.
Ah, pinking shears - I still use my 94 year old aunt's pinking shears, which she gave to me many years ago. They cost her £3/7 ($6-70 a small fortune back then) and are still in the original box. I keep all my off cuts to test finishes and button holes. I saw your posting on testing and thought it was just one of my own quirks.
Some how I forgot to finish a short seam in a blouse when I was taking a required Home Economics Class back in High School. Rather than take all the seams near it out, to get to that short seam, I used a needle and thread to hand finish that seam with blanket stitches. My teacher took points away from my grade for doing this. The blanket stitches lasted as long as the zig-zag stitches and looked better.
Don't feel bad about home ec classes, I wound up teaching the classes whenever we got to the sewing parts, and I had all of 5 or 6 garments under my belt at the time. Kinda like my French teacher who took several seniors to France one summer. She actually came back into class that fall and told us not one person she spoke to in France could understand anything she said! Tenure isn't always a good thing.
Arvetta, I like your seam finishing fix-it! I,too, had at least ONE home Ec teacher that had a hard time with my (learned from Mom) make-do ways! She really balked at the idea of me using a discontinued pattern that was not my size as well as a piece of fabric that wasn't enough according to the pattern envelope! It did however work but I cannot remember what kind of grade I got for that double knit dress with a bound buttonhole project! It was 40 plus years ago!
I would agree with you.
I once made the mistake of trying to use French seams on a thick fabric and it made my machine work so hard that it blew a fuse 😬 luckily repairs were still covered by the warranty, but regardless you should be smarter than past me and use the correct finishings
Wow!! Lesson learnt early at least!
Hand felled seams also are a great way to keep your hands busy when you've got a show to watch 😉
Thanks for the information!
I like to hand sew while watching shows too!!
I recently made a pair of linen pants with a piece of thrifted fabric I had been waiting to use on just the right project.....I was so proud. I was pressing the waistband when I noticed I had forgotten to serge the seam around the pocket edges. I foolishly believed I could still manage it with great care. I took great care and still managed slice into the leg of the pants...on both sides just to make it more fun. That was about a week ago and I think I have finally forgiven myself and will attempt to mend the areas by patching and darning. They are small areas that I think are inconspicuous. Lesson learned.
🙈🙈🙈 I've done that, multiple times, while trying to alter thrifted clothes to fit me without completely taking them apart because I'm a sewing newbie and wouldn't know how to put them back together... You could say I've learned to really pay attention to keep the rest of the fabric awaayyy from the blade when I serge seams 😅.
I took the free crash course at Vintage Sewing School and it was so helpful and clear and enjoyable that I couldn’t become a full member quickly enough! If anyone watching this video is considering checking out Evelyn’s courses, I highly recommend you do so. There is no credit card required for the crash course, as with most “free” offerings, Evelyn wants you to enroll in full membership because you want to, not because you forgot to cancel some trial membership. Okay, I’m done gushing.💚
😍 Thanks so much, I'm thrilled to hear your loving it so much, I can't wait to see your progress and what you make in the community!
Many household sewing machines come with a special overcasting or "serge" foot. It has a little metal finger to prevent the bunching of zigzagged seams. This is a game changer, especially when used with a stitch that hast at least two stitches across, such as the triple zigzag or a "mock overlock" stitch. Sometimes I use that instead of my serger when the seams have awkward angles and curves. It holds up at least as well as a true overlock binding.
My machine came with one of these and I’ve no idea how to use it. Sounds like it’s time for me to learn!
@@its_me_jen_jen9204 Just trim the seam allowance, select your stitch and position the presser foot so that the outside stitch is just outside of the fabric. At least on my machine there is no need to adjust the thread tensions. If the rightmost stitch appears to be a bit loose, it will be just right after ironing.
@@ClaudiaArnold Wow! Thanks so much for your help! Can’t wait to try!
I've only recently learned that I need to finish seams, lol. I do find that sewing binding on the armhole-sleeve seams on medium to heavy weight fabrics has helped my garments be more neat. It also gives a little structure to the shoulders.
Yes! I agree it's a lovely finish for armholes!
My preference has been French seams for lighterweight fabrics and flat felled for anything too bulky for French seam. I almost exclusively hand sew because I like to sit watching tv while sewing. So those are my go-to’s simply for that reason! Now that I’m used to it it’s hard to use anything else. If the fabric is extra bulky I whip the inside edge shut instead of top stitching it shut.
Getting an overlocker surely made my garments look more nice and the survival ratio after washing them got much higher. I used to zigzag before that, but it's just not as sturdy a finish...
🤣 I love this, ' the survival rate after washing' is what it will forever be referred to now!
Hmmmmmm.....almost 50 years of sewing and never a single failed seam with zigzag finish. Not once. 3 stitch zigzag prevents tunneling. Zig zag stitching also is always less bulky than overlocking because much less thread is used. I've even seen bespoke mens' trousers finished with a zigzag finish.
Pinking? Why bother? Only good reason to pink is on heavy overcoat type woolens. Also, no quicker way for garment to look "homemade" than for pinked edges to show through a lighter weight fabric.
I've always used hongkong finish strictly for unlined jackets. Only three layers of silk so as to reduce bulk. The silk on the backside is left raw as cutting on the bias reduces fraying. Once the seam is pressed open the unfinished side does not show. Also rather quick to do this way rather than a full 4 thickness binding.
@@cliftonmcnalley8469 Well, those zizagged raw edges always displayed a minimum of fraying, which made them less neat and more prone to further fraying. I do understand that an overlocked edge can become a bit bulky, however I prefer to keep the sturdiness of 3 or 4 threads and use something like thin serafil thread in those cases, rather than using a zigzag stitch. And if even that serafil would be too bulky (let's say I would be making myself a pair of boxershorts in a very light chiffon...) I would personnally turn to a french seam. Maybe that's because my zigzagging was never as neat as it should have been... It's not just the 3 or 4 threads of the overlocker that do it for me. It's the combination of that and the fact that the looper threads meet exactly on the edge that is made instantly by it's blade.
@@bartd4800 I actually only use a zigzagged finish where others use a serger/overlocker. I use a plain zigzag, a 3 stitch zigzag, a turned edge zigzag (instead of just straight stitching a turned edge), a felled seam, a french seam, a hongkong finish and a bound edge(usually just on the fly where extra durability is also needed). I decide on seam finishes based on the type of garment and type of fabric for each project. I have never had a zigzagged seam disintegrate in the wash, nor have threads come loose from the fabric edges, the width and length of the zigzag used prevents it all.
I grew up in a time where serged seams were a sign of cheaply produced clothing. Better clothing had actual seam allowances, serged seams really don't. Plus, having studied clothing construction as the plethora of foreign made "fast fashion" was at its infancy, I learned that sergers were invented specifically to produce cheaper clothing faster. At that same time, higher end designer clothing sold in upper end department stores often had no seam finish at all to reduce bulk. This was the early 80's. Serging = cheap to me, because I know better. Anyone that has grown up later sees serging as "professional" because that is how almost all factory clothing is now made.
I did purchase a pair of trousers 7 or 8 years ago, in an emergency situation for $40 - not a "sale" price. They had generous seam allowances and all of them were bound! So odd! Unfortunately like everything else OTR, they didn't actually fit. After getting me thru the emergency they went to Goodwill.
If I were sewing for a living, I would probably use a serger just to finish edges and I wouldn't be so finicky about color matching the thread, but as I only sew for me, the serger is reserved for t-shirt duty.
@@cliftonmcnalley8469 I understand that for you (for historical reasons) there is a mental link between overlockers and fast fashion. However, for me (as I probably never did a good job zigzagging properly and using an overlocker makes my clothes last longer...) there is a link between my overlocker and the fact that the fashion I sew for myself got slower. It's true that using my overlocker also speeds up my sewing process. But that doesn't turn the clothes I make into fast fashion... So yeah, good for you that you're a champ at zigzagging. But not everybody is... and for those people an overlocker might just make their clothes more sturdy, which makes the kind of fashion they belong to... slower. Whether a garment is fast or slow fashion is not determined that much by the machines used during the production process (although I must say I use secondhand machines myself...), nor by the speed of the production process, but rather by the sustainability of the materials and by how long the life-cycle of the garment itself will last. (BTW, my vintage Bernina Record 530 doesn't boast a 3 stitch zigzag... yet another reason for me to turn to my overlocker...)
I started sewing with historical garments so I was chucked in the deep end when it comes to seam finishes. On my first garment I had to use French seams. On my 2nd it was flat felled 😂 I love a neat finish
I definitely agree Hannah Bradshaw
I'm an overlocker convert, for sure.
I made do without one for years, but they're such a game changer...
I still do french seams occasionally, but that's pretty much it. Overlocking is fast, reliable and tidy.
And sewing stretchy fabric suddenly isn't a nightmare anymore...and I quite like jersey dresses and such in summer.
When I was a young girl and first learning I pinked into not only my seam allowance but a triangle hole into the garment. I stopped using pinking shears and went to zigzagging after that. Nowadays I usually overlock, but can do flat felled and prefer it for men’s shirts,
Zig-zagging with an overlock foot on my regular machine is my go-to seam finish because I'm lazy! My biggest mistake was neglecting to trim the seam allowance on a set of French seams. So unsightly, totally defeated the purpose of choosing French seams in the first place!
Zig-zag, oh me too. I cut my seam down, then zig-zag, looks almost like a serger. I wish I could get a serger but I just don't have the room for yet another machine.
This was very informative 👏!!!
When I first started sewing I bought a beautiful and expensive Chinoiserie fabric to use as part of a costume. I pinked it, used liquid fray check, and watched it unravel right in front of my eyes! Lesson learned the hard way!!
My first flat felled seam was one of those “wing it” tries….it was not pretty!!! The worst was being lazy and doing no finish….OMG..the inside became a stringy rag after the first wash. Lesson learned the hard way!
I once used the turn and stitch finish on the side seams of a skirt, only to discover that the slight extra bulk created a visible lump on each side of the seams on the good side when pressed. Obviously the wrong seam finish for this fabric. Love the video, as always!
Even though I still have a lot of stress cutting my fabric, these type of video's help me get a feeling that that I can do it and make a great garment.
I have no doubts you will! 🙂
My sewing journey started of watching these videos from this lady. I knew nothing and understood nothing. Many thanks to her my knowledge and skill set in sewing now is dangerous. Keep making videos for people like me, that come from nowhere. Thank you Evelyn 🤍🤍🤍🤍
Another wonderful video. I now live off grid and have a very old treadle machine, so I love French seams which take away all the wispy threads forever! Been sewing, self taught, for many decades and have had the experience of pulling out a lovely, delicate, painstakingly-home-made garment from the washing machine only to find it in shreds because I used the wrong seam AND should have hand washed. Wish I'd had the internet and you when I was younger!! Love your channel. Thanks for being there. 😊😊💕
I've recently had a minor disaster with French seams. I'm sewing a raglan sleeved blouse, but instead of making it in one go I'm experimenting with sewing for half an hour or so after work. I remembered to sew it wrong sides together, but forgot to reduce the seam allowance to account for the double seam until after I cut the seam allowance. Thankfully the blouse has a gathered neck, it just won't be as gathered as per the pattern, and the sleeves are very full so it should still fit! I think the flat felled seam is the only one I've not tried yet.
sometimes the solution (especially on fabrics that take a press well) is faux french seams!
Not doing finishes! My favorite homemade skirt now has a fluffy fringe around the pockets and along the seams. Thankfully it's on the inside and the fabric isn't sheer, but I am worried that it isn't as structurally sound as it could be.
When I first started sewing I used to do "overcasting" by hand like my mother taught me. It took as long to finish the seams as it did to make the garment in the first place 😱 When I discovered how to use the overcasting foot on my new sewing machine it was a game changer! I also like French seams where appropriate. Best of all are stable knit fabrics that don't fray and don't need any kind of finishing! 🤣
Thank you! That was extremely helpful! And I love the detail about the "English seams."
Yeah, I had a bit of trouble trying to remember to sew the seams wrong sides together the first few times I did a french seam! Working on flat felled seams right now and they are less bulky than french seams for sure & look nice!
Yeah, wrong sides together, goes against your sewing instincts doesn't it? I'm going to make a tissue linen shirt, trying French seams for the first time. Going to be so pretty.
I have used several of these techniques. They are a great way to finish seams.
I bought an overlocker from Aldi ( Aldi sewing machines and overlockers are Janome rebrand, excellent quality and only half the price of Janome ones) in 2018 after a year learning sewing . and it’s one of my best Aldi purchase and sewing investments. It has made my homemade garment looks very professional and it survives in the washing machine. And btw I went to op shops that are a bit far from my home last week and I got so many second hand fabric( majority of them are doona covers, sheets, but they are floral so I thought they would be perfect for pretty lining) and sewing accessories
I am making a lill notebook of your tips .. 🤗🤗
I loathe overlockers so I use pinking shears on cottons and then sew along the edge. On almost everything else I just zig zag. I have had no more disasters with this than purchased garments with overlocked seams. I feel like off the rack clothes are so badly sewn most of the time. Thanks again Evelyn for a great overview.
I love enclosed seams.
I'm watching this while making the Lichen Duster (Sew Liberated) in a heavy-ish linen, using a combination of hand-felled seams and contrast-bound seams (with binding I made myself from lightweight woven viscose). So a classic example of an exposed interior to a loose jacket :)
I once made a Halloween costume for my daughter that had a cheap polyester brocade fabric for the top of the dress. That fabric frayed like crazy, like it would just disintegrate if you breathed in its direction. Handling it at all was a nightmare, and I was super careful too. Just getting the pieces sewn together caused the 5/8" seam allowance to shrink to a 3/8" seam allowance, then as I tried to get the edges zigzagged it shrank to a 1/4" seam allowance in most places. At the end of the night after my daughter wore the dress the seam was actually pulling apart under the arms because the zigzag wasn't enough to stop the fraying. Fortunately you couldn't see it until she took it off and it was a costume she was only going to wear once.
If I had to do it all over over again? I probably wouldn't have bought that fabric in the first place, lol! However, I think I bought it because it had the right look and it was in my budget, so if I did work with it again I would either fray check everything or cut all the pieces as a single layer of fabric and "cut" it out using a heat tool of some kind. That fabric was a little too thick to do a french seam, and I'm sure it would have unraveled far too fast to do a hand felled seam. Maybe a bound seam would have worked with the utmost care, but it would have been a real trick to get the seams bound before they had a chance to disintegrate. Melting or gluing the edges are the best options I can think of for such a terrible fabric.
What a nightmare!! This is a good example where there's always an exception to the rule. So instead, you could cut the pieces out and then finish them entirely before you sew. That way they are handled the least to minimise fraying. It's not a great way to do it, but it's still better than jabbering the seams fray out and seam allowances disappear 😃
@@Evelyn__Wood I will definitely try that the next time I have to work with a badly fraying fabric!
Seam finishes have always kept me from making my own clothes and sticking only to quilting. After watching a few of your videos I'm going to get back in to apparel sewing because my body just doesn't want to wear anything off the shelf anymore. I have a serger and never even use it so I'll start putting it to use. Thanks so much for your videos.
My first French Seams... OOOOF. I did not fully encase them like I thought I had and... yeah. The edge stuck out of EVERY seam. Ugh. I have definitely saved this video for reference!
My tuppence-worth:
From bitter experience, viscose needs an enclosed seam finish!
Sometimes I love doing a bound (HK) finish in a totally wacky contrast to an unlined garment.
I agree that planning is everything: if, for example, a careful choice of binding, such as bias cut silk is used on a fine fabric, it can add needed weight and even enough structure to stop droopiness ( I’m also thinking of substitutions for weights / chains to hold skirts down, where they may be just too heavy or rigid)
I've been sewing for 50 years and seam finishes have always baffled me. This is the best video I've ever seen on this topic. Thanks!
Evelyn
Would you go through all the different interfacings someday?
That is a confusing works to me.
Lindsey from Inside the Hem has an entire video on interfacing. Check out her you tube channel.
My mistake was using a cotton tape (the thick, open weave ones) to bind the seams on my wool walking skirt- and by machine to boot! My machine hated it, and it looked gathered and messy.
So I’m now redoing those seams with a cotton bias binding, by hand. They are looking much nicer.
A hongkong finish is much nicer on a wool skirt than a fully bound seam because it's less bulky. I use thrifted mens' neckties to finish seams. I only buy 100% silk, disassemble, washed usually press dry with a dry iron. I use a rotary cutter to cut the strips and buy coordinating tie colors for each project. The prints are fun and look interesting when they show. The ties are cut on the bias to begin with, so the backside of the Hong Kong finish won't unravel.
There are numerous "not very good examples" of how to do a HK finish on RUclips - including one from a certain magazine. However, House of Miss Sew has a video, "Creating a Hong Kong Seam Finish", which is really quite good. She demonstrates using purchased cotton seam binding. The only thing I would do different is I would not trim as close as she did, there needs to be about an 1/8" of allowance left on the backside.
A silk HK finish is really nice for wool.
@@cliftonmcnalley8469 I love to get silk ties from thrift shops. Now I know what to do with them. I did not know that they are cut on the bias. Learn something new every day, don't we?
Thank you for the information
I forgot to add that the interfacing in a tie makes a great sleeve header for a jacket, but one tie will usually only make one header. However there are only 2 or 3 different kinds of interfacing, so it doesn't take long to get matched pairs.
I have sewed many garments as a teenager and when my children were toddlers…… many years ago. At 68 I’m getting back to sewing again. I even got myself a new sewing machine and a serger. I’m struggling a little with many aspects of sewing in order to make a professional finish. I appreciate your videos very much and I’m so glad I discovered you on RUclips.
Ha. Same age as you and just bought a new sewing machine too - mine’s a vintage Singer 201. Love it! Just bought my first pattern in 30 years and some bias binding. Never used to finish my seams. Now’s my chance to get into better habits.
Love this video! I'm new at sewing and had no idea what can I use not having a machine
❤🌷
I was gifted a 13 year old serger. I found I love to serge. The machine is fast and it’s so satisfying to see the seams finished.
I've watched so many of your videos and I think this one is my favourite! Having all this info here in one video is so helpful - I've been sewing for 30 years but I still hadn't got my head around which seam finishes are good for which garment/fabric. Now I get it! Thank you so much!
Hi Evelyn! I live in Portugal and the lady that thought me how to sew also called French seams English seams. But I think that was only her. Everybody tells me English seams are the ones like the ones in jeans and French seams like the ones you showed.
I like to have fun with my bound seams. I buy used silk saris from Etsy, and use those to make binding strips. If I'm going to the trouble of binding seams, I want that beautiful pop of color.
I try to use the zig zag on any seam edges that I can. I run out a test strip and see what happens/works with the material. Quick and easy check! No wasted effort and keeps me out of trouble!
I use the same setup for my hems in blue jeans and trousers. Okay, they're hems, not Seams, but we have to do something with the raw cut edges....no pinking shears in my sewing kit.... yet!
I sewed a summer skirt from hopsack linen last summer, and for some reason I thought just zigzaging the edges would be enough?!? The first time I washed it, the pocket fell out, the waist band frayed off in the front, and the area right below it started fraying too. What a mess.
Also, thank you for sharing the bound seam tip! I'm a sucker for 60s looseweave tweeds because of their colors and availability at antique stores, but I haven't yet worked up the courage to use them for fear of fraying! Now I can have all the lovely cozy mod things my heart desires!
Just getting back to sewing after 25 years. Thank you for a great refresher.❤
I have a 1941 singer and I will be making a super elegant top with some high sheen brocade. I don’t have an overlock machine so I’m going to have to do French seams MAYBE with Hong Kong finishing for the waist. It’s a looser fitting top so it should be just fine! 👍🏻
If you do right sides together and were intending to do French seams, look into mock French seams
Thanks, that was a good tip.
I was stressed about finishing the seams on the “Frozen” Dress overlay. The instructions said to stitch and then stitch again 1/4” away and trim to stitching. I fought this because I thought “no way” was this going to look good. To my surprise it looked beautiful. I was impressed …….. #1 with this method and #2 following the instructions. LOL.
My worst seam finish desaster I actually had a few weeks ago. I finished a culotte with a french seam because the viskose fabric was too delicate for the serger, and after washing it all the seams started to fray like mad. Luckily I could feed these thick seams trough the serger, the four layers where heavy enough. This fabric was a nightmare but sooo beautyful.
Very helpful. I like the bind finish for jackets. Neat.
Good pros and cons for each finish. Thank you. I would love the pattern for your beautiful tasseled purple peasant top!!!
When I started sewing I learned to zigzag all the pattern pieces once cut out. Then I got lazy and stopped that. Recently I did French seam and felled seam by "accident" because of the fraying. Now I focus on the seam finish based on what kind of look I want for the garment. One day I will have an overlocker....
I'm relatively new to sewing and my favourite disaster was a shirt I made where I thought my new vintage pinking shears would look really tidy... They were blunt and I couldn't get through the fabric very well and realised that they would probably fray in the wash! I have a Singer 201 which of course doesn't do zig zags but I also have an attachment for that which moves the fabric as opposed to the needle itself .. what a mess! It wobbled all over the place... As a final insult, the shirt was far to small! Clearly didn't think anything through 😂 gave it to a friend who was the right size, he loved it and didn't notice the errors. Lessons learnt: always do a mock up, get the scissors sharpened regularly and actually plan seam finishes...
You are fantastic! I'm learning a lot from you. Greetings from Italy!
Most of my patterns say to press seams open so that is what I do and I like that the seam lays flat-pinking shears are still good for flat seams. I use closed seam types for pillowcases etc but just don’t like the look or feel of any closed seam in garments. Zigzag on each edge separately are also fairly okay to keep flat depending on fabric used. Just my experience and opinion. The polyester double knits of the 70’s were a dream to sew, launder, and didn’t show wear for years. Of course the cotton lobby was not a fan of clothes that wore forever. ☺️
I really dislike the zigzag because mine never turn out pretty and also I used them on everything until now (this video is a game changer). I sewed the covers from the sitting banks I made and I used the zigzag on the weavy fabric (it was the only one I knew of) and of course after one washing they started getting undone. 😒🙄 but now I know better thanks to you. 😊 After 3 videos only you got me to follow you. 😇
Great video, I am familiar with all those finishes, but it is nice to know which garments to use them on!
So nice to have so many kinds of seam finishes all in one vid for easy reference. I quite like using the turn and stitch, since its pretty forgiving to add pockets into the seam when you forget during initial construction.
Ty so much you are so good with sewing, I’ve learned a lot of sewing technics from your videos .
Such a useful video! I'd love some tips for how you finish seams on a curve like shoulder/sleeve joins where you snip the seam allowance with scissors to allow the fabric to curve (if you know what I mean!). I always end up using pinking shears on those as you would end up snipping through your seam finish!
Thank you, very informative. It seems like French seams are the only way to go with my favourite rayon 😞
I have often used a serger for thin fabrics that are hard to control, I do a lot of heirloom sewing for my granddaughter, lightweight lawns, cottons and linens with the narrowest finish on the outside! Then I enclose them in a French seam! Cheating but sometimes I’m behind on getting them to her!
Thank you for all the time and work and knowledge you give
I was wondering what the purpose was for binding tape. I will use some to cover the seam on the inside of an obi belt I made🥋
You can also use binding tape for finishing arm and neck holes in lieu of a facing 😀 (that’s the more common use for bias tape)
Josie and Aimee-
Bias binding along curved edges works best if the edge to attach first is pressed open while gently shaping it in a convex curve.
When sewing it on do not stretch it. Press seam towards the binding then press bound edge on the inside, being careful to maintain an even width. Finish by hand or machine stitching binding to the garment. Having made quite a number of items with binding and attempted numerous shortcuts, the "extra" time is well spent.
I once made an entire garment where the outer layer and lining were French seamed together. I had no concept of bagging-out linings then. That is 8 layers of fabric - somehow my poor machine survived! I still love French seams and use them even on medium weight garments and curves. The others are all too time -consuming (hand-felled seams), do not work well with modern washing machines, or are a nightmare to mend (looking at you, overlocker . . .).
Hand felled seams are definitely my favorite when it comes to durability and clean insides. That said I can be very lazy so I often just do a zigzag stitch for anything that has longer seams (especially for trouser side seams).
Hi Evelyn,
Thank you so much for this tutorial.
I’m in the process of making a double face coat (faux fur inside and velours outside). At first I was thinking of doing the “French“ seam but after watching your video I’ll do the bound seam. I’ve used this technique in the past and clearly the look is so very professional.
My first machine sewed in a straight line, so I learnt all the seam finishes. These days I own an overlocker, but don't use it that much. I do use it to finish the cut ends of fabric before prewashing and sometimes if I am constructing a knit garment. I don't have any real seam finishing disasters, or maybe I just don't remember the early days well enough.
I usually did the zigzag finish or the fold in and sew edges. Purchasing an overlocker recently was a steep learning curve and game changer for me. Evelyn, I am so glad I am a member of your sewing school because I can learn in detail about every finishing seam type and garment construction after watching these fabulous videos you produce. They are the teaser and you are an amazing teacher. Thank you! ❤️🐾
My worst mistake was trying to pink the edges of a dress that was completely done. I clipped into the skirt part, just below the bust! I never pinked an edge again! In the past I mostly used zigzag stitches and loved flat felled seams on the woolen jackets that I made. I recently bought a serger which I love but I still french seam some of my light weight cottons and rayons. I haven't yet tried a bound seam finish.
These videos are so inspiring to try something new. I'm a french seam person, but I really want to try bound seams.
I think one of the other things to consider with seam finishes is whether or not it's easy to access for alterations as well.
Thanks Evelyn, I am in England, and was taught sewing in school in the early'60's we were taught well, a shame that it does not seem to be taught now. I think my worse seam finishes were working with lace on my wedding dress, long enough ago now I do not remember what I did!
I work with light weight fabric alot and a French seam is awesome! I did however do a heavier cotton shirt and the seams got quite bulky with a French seam, so definitely gonna mix it up!
My two most recent projects were vintage (WWII era) maternity dresses in super-fray-ey deadstock rayon. Most of the seams are french seamed, but the sleeve cuffs and facing piece are single fold bias bound (I find it looks cleaner than the turn and stitch method for single-thickness pieces), and the armholes are double fold bias bound (because french seams around an armpit are awful, plus there's a little extra structure that helps the tiny bit of puff on the sleeve stand up). I've found they hold up to machine washing on a delicate cycle, but wouldn't put them in with the normal wash (mostly because of the fabric, not the seam finish).
Thank you! A very helpful video for a beginner like me 😄
My first garment with hand-felled seams is holding together fairly well, but if I were to do it again, I would 1) leave myself more seam allowance, 2) especially on the more fray-prone fabric, and 3) iron in the fold for the felled seam before stitching, because it's pretty wibbly inside.
Alternatively, you could just learn by my example and *not* make a 22-panel, 21-gore skirt out of quilting jelly roll.
Wish I could like this video more than once! Sooooo very helpful! Thank you!
I made a 20 panel sheer skirt for a costume. Of course I had to use French seems and just like you said, I did a lot of unpicking... A few times after I had already sewn the enclosing seem. I still think it was totally worth it. It's a perfect twirling skirt and I love how it turned out
I tend to use a lot of Fray-Check glue on the edges I'm extra worried about. Such as areas that will likely experience a lot more strain and wear. Then I finish them normally however is necessary
My preference is a French seam although I use a zig zag on occasion too. I'm sure there are times when I would do something else but I don't have to use many heavy fabrics because I live in a very hot area.
I just adore the caplet you wear in your opening credits. I am looking to knit or crochet myself one and would love to replicate yours as it is the perfect length and look to just cover bare shoulders. Love your videos!!
Before I got a serger, I tried pinking shears on a linen skirt 😭. Of course, it fell apart in the wash. I was able to piece it back together but it was like sewing the skirt twice. Lesson learned 😂
Last year i was making an overdress for a costume, using brown muslin which was the only fabric i could find in that colour. I was concerned it would be too transparent, so i decided to double it - and "cheat" on finishing each piece - by sewing each piece into a bag and inverting it. Like a French seam on the edge of each piece! It did make the seams a little bulky, especially when i hadn't trimmed enough of the edges. Well, it all went well until i got to sewing in the sleeve ... which had a puff made of an extra piece on the outside... Making a total of twelve layers of my nice, fine muslin at the bottom of the armscye. I had to hand-sew those sleeves in - and then trim so much bulk that my "pre-finish" was completely wasted 😂 Still haven't finished those two seams!
One of my sewing disasters was early on in my sewing life. I didn't prewash my canvas fabric before sewing it into a backpack. When I washed it it shrank up very oddly and frayed a lot. I was about 12 or 13 at the time. My earliest sewing disaster was a needle ended up in my baby sisters knee. I was blamed for it. I didn't know if I lost the needle or if someone else did. Baby sister was fine. The needle worked its way almost to the surface and the doctor was able to easily remove it. The needle was bent a little and that's probably why it worked its way to the surface.
This is wonderful, and thank you!! I am itching to try a machine-felled seam. I think they look fun.
What a great Video! I Love these seam finishes. It took a long time to learn why andhow. But I Love to make the inside look beautiful too.
I love the flat felled seam for my Renaissance Faire garments. Makes them so strong and pretty. I literally put a sleeve in my Chemise wrong side out... because the felled seam looked so good. I did not notice for a Few Years... seriously.... years. So clean and finished the flat felled seam looks. :D Great Video.
Wonderful video! Thank you so much, Evelyn! You explained everything perfectly well. I love how carefully you showed us examples, and the pros and cons highlights are excellent.
This is great! If you do more I would love to see how best to use rayon seam binding. I’ve been trying to find information about how best to use it, but just not having any luck. Thanks for making this video.
My funniest mistake was sewing a French seam on accident 😂 and the most frustrating I still have trouble with is cutting fabric- with mirroring and duplicate and what not. - from an extreme beginner who struggles with remembering all the terms!
Toyota used to make an attachment for classic sewing machines that mimics an overlocker. It's called Rubylock and if you have a friend in Japan, they can look for a second-hand one for you ;)
Let's create a buzz so the company makes a modern version? :D
And try using one of those million decorative stitches for turn and stitch seams. It makes them look super pretty and I found it helps them fray a bit less.