These days without a dedicated sewing space getting my overlocker out is too hard so I've loved playing around with other seam finishes I felled the seams of a skirt and while it took forever I have to agree with how lovely and professional it looks I'm also planning on sewing a coat with an old wool blanket and until I track down some lining fabric at the opshop my plan is to do bound seams in a decorative fabric My current wip is a woolen dress and while I'm drafting the pattern in puzzling over how I will do the seams, I love the hand felled seams but doing a whole dress sounds like a pain but I have no binding and can't get out to the fabric store
Good morning from Maine. How do you finish a curved seam that will need to be clipped? I don't have a serger, so is my only option zig-zagging close to the stitch line and prayer?
Hand felling is my favorite for linen; mock French seams for delicate fabrics. Hand work is soothing for me, plus it has the benefit of being portable; I can keep my hands busy doing something useful while waiting for the doctor or watching RUclips videos (!).
My disappointment when I was first starting to sew and wanting to learn how to do a professional finish and it was done with a whole other machine outside of a sewing machine, was immeasurable. There was no way I was dropping several hundreds of dollars for a second machine!
The serger can be used for lots of other things than finishing seams - eg. sewing jersey fabrics with flexible seams or fast sewing and trimming in one go for bedlinen and things like that. I wouldn’t do without mine ;-)
This is me today :( thinking the seam of the pants I was making my daughter was going to look like the ones from the shops I buy from online. Reality check
I grew up wearing homemade clothes, both knitted and sewn - I considered myself very lucky as I was given free reign to choose the fabric/yarn colour and feel, and Mum would make everything in the next size up so it could be let out as needed. She sewed PJs, slacks, shirts, skirts, jackets, dresses and knitted Jumpers, hats, cardigans, scarves, gloves, etc. Mum did all this on an old Singer machine with a treadle plate - although the plate was hooked up to electricity so she only had to press her toes down when she wanted to sew, rather that rock back and forth. The machine belonged to Nana (Dad's Mum), who had the machine's treadle electrified when her ankles became arthritic. Back in the early 1980s, I learned "garment construction" at School, and I was amazed at the machines we learned on - so many different stitches! And a REVERSE button! I did have a little experience on our Singer and found it laborious to sew 5 or 6 stitches, then have to leave the needle down, raise the foot, pivot the fabric, lower the foot, sew 5 or 6 stitches back along the line I did, then with needle down, raise, pivot, lower and continue sewing the seam - then to go through that whole process again at the end of the seam! Each and every seam! Just one stitch in one direction. Mum taught me french and flat-felled seams and bound arm/neck holes before I learned their names at school. To inspire me at school, Mum said she'd pay half toward my own sewing machine when I finished Year 12 (1986). I am not a knitter, but I love sewing! Nana's Singer now lives in my bedroom - quite usable, but not as easy to use as my more modern machines. Actually, the old Singer never got snagged threads, didn't suffer with varying thicknesses of fabric like my modern machines so maybe they're not so perfect either!
I started sewing at 4 years of age on an old Phoenix machine from ca. 1890. In the 60s, there were still many of them around. It was a zigzag machine, but when it was built, Singer held the patent for the - how do you call it in English - the part of the machine that holds the needle and moves left and right in order to do the zigzag. This Phoenix had the alternative "Mundlos" system, where the feed dogs were pivoting the fabric in a sort of pendulum movement to provide zigzag stitches. You really had to concentrate with that one! This is why I often hand-overcast in difficult places and I still do it today when all else is lost. When we finally got a new electric machine I liked the multitude of stitches (though they came out very irregular most of the time, it was no great machine) but I hatedhatedhated the electric presser foot. It would make a buzzing noise first and nothing else, and with the next millimeter of pressure the machine would run off like a charging bull. Where with the mechanical machine, I had been able to curl my toes around the edge of the pedal, giving me perfect control and so much more power than the puny little motor had. Sigh...
What a lovely story. I have my husband's grandmother's old treadle machine that was electrified and the treadle removed. I never sew on it because the cord is like rope and I'm afraid it's a fire hazard. Its fun to look at.
I love all reading all these stories!! I have to admit I’m pretty jealous of everyone that had sewing instruction at school. I’m 21, graduated high school in 2017, and we never learned anything like that at all. I see comments on all kinds of sewing and embroidery videos from people saying they needed to learn it for school and it blows my mind, I wish they had taught us that kind of stuff. (I’m in the American south btw) Now I’m trying to learn sewing on my own, and keep taking very very long breaks because I have pretty much no knowledge of garment construction, and since I’m plus sized and not shaped the way commercial patterns want me to be, I pretty much have to draft my own patterns if I want to make my own clothes. And I’m so jealous of the older sewing machines you guys have! My mom and I used to use my grandmother’s, which I think was from the 60s, but it finally broke a year or two ago. The modern one we’ve been using since, I honestly think is possessed or something... it does the same thing of making a humming noise and not moving at all, then all of a sudden shooting off at light-speed. I seriously cannot get it to go at a slower pace. I’ve watched a lot of professional sewers on RUclips and I’ve never seen any of them go at a pace as fast as this machine’s slowest pace, it drives me crazy. So now I’m learning to hand sew, lol!
@@mallory1304 you may want to consider dropping off that fast machine to a sewing machine repair person because it may just need a quick fix. Most fabric stores can give you the contact info for repair shops. If the machine is just being too ugly to deal with consider a beginner level machine because they are less than $200 and if you can split the cost with someone that would be so worth it in your learning and enjoyment. Be aware that many are out of stock because there are so many folks buying them during lockdown, but it is worth trying to locate one. My gram taught me to sew on buttons when I was 5 and legally blind (congenital tumors) and when my sight became functional a few years later neighbor taught me to sew in the late 1950’s into the ‘60’s .My first machine was a second hand basic singer when I was 12 , cost $20 of my babysitting money and only went forward with the tension thingy that would always go wonky but I loved that machine and in short order I was making most of my school dresses, skirts, blouses, and pajamas. You can also get second hand machines at sewing machine shops and they are usually refurbished and include a lesson or two. A mechanical machine as opposed to a computerized one, will give you the basic stitches you need and also remain inexpensive to repair if the need arises, as opposed to computerized machines. Good for you for hand sewing. I make hand sewn doll clothes for sale and it is easy to manipulate and sew the tiny pieces by hand plus the buyers do not mind paying more for the effort and nice results. It is a stress free way to sew, right? I read an article about the issue of cheap clothing and the author pointed out a survey that indicated about 80% of people toss out garments if they lose a button or need a small hem or seam repair because they say they have no time to hand sew!
I love french seams, all my edwardian blouses have them it makes the inside so neat (in french they are called "coutures anglaises" = english seams which i find funny idk)
Me, who has been obsessively watching Bernadette Banner for the last 18 months: WHEN ARE YOU GONNA TALK ABOUT FELLED SEAMS Evelyn: felled seams Me: yesssssssssssss I'm trying french seams for the first time making a 1908 walking skirt at the moment! I've never got on with overlockers when I've had access to them, so I'll be referring back to this vid when I'm planning my next project :)
🤣🤣 Yay! First French seams! They are wonderful, the only downside for me is, that you can't fit a garment as you go with them (without great difficulty that is!) But it your pattern fit is perfect, 😄😄😄!
Thank you so much for your videos, Evelyn! I’m a young guy who inherited a sewing machine when my aunt passed away. I’m a novice and your videos are helping my projects look much more professional
I actually saw French seam from that one time I tried to pick apart a garment to use it as fabric. I didn't knew what it was called but the first thing that went to my mind was "that was just brilliant, I'm just gonna use this every time I got the chance". I always use it on totebags because it looks really durable, like you can trust that bag to hold your things and not break.
I'm a new sewer. Very self taught. Your videos are my favourite to learn from. Right now I am trying to follow a beginners pattern and your videos are saving me! I thought you should know that you're work is helping foster a new creative skill for me. Thanks for sharing your knowledge :)
Love french seams. The first garment I did French seams on was the first garment I really loved and still wear. A Tilly and the Buttons cami top. So lovely.
I love felling seams by hand. I don't know why I like them so much, but I think that they are incredibly fun to do. I've also been experimenting with the rolled hem foot on my 1910 Singer 66, and I am loving that as well. I don't like the look of serged edges, which is great, because it means I don't have to buy a serger.
Every time I see one of your videos I am astonished at your sweet spirit. You are just a lovely person both inside and out. Thank you for all your wonderful videos.
I, too, like it a lot. And I like her version of english speaking. I fell in love with that language many years ago (I am german) and Evelyn is just using the language in an adorable manner. Love it! And what she says as well. That's for sure!
I enjoyed this tutorial very much. It was charming and inspiring, and took me back to the 1960s -- the final age in which the ordinary woman could sew and regularly wore couture-worthy garments. Back in the 1980s, couture sewing techniques and the serious study of garment construction started disappearing from high school home economics classes. I was shocked when I did not have to take my daughter to shop for fabric for her home ec project, buy the right size pattern, figure yardage, or gather tools and supplies to sew a garment. I had to pay for a silly kit that was shipped to the school to sew in class. It was a box of pre-cut fake fur pieces of a foot-shaped pillow. With such an uninspiring project to complete, and no exposure to the real world of choosing and getting to know materials and make a real, wearable garment, it's no wonder few students had any interest in sewing. It has become very hard, where I live, to find anyone who can sew or alter clothing.
GOOOOOOooooooooD! This is SOOO nice for you to cover! I've been trying to find this for YEAARS. I NEVER understood how to make things To- LOOK the way they're supposed too on other Things I just wanna express how Much this was NEEDED for me! THANK THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU Ps. *Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!*
I love bias bound seams, with a variation. I reduce the bulk (well, one layer!) by leaving the bias tape on the "wrong side" as a single layer instead of folding it under. The raw edge is hidden on the underside, and since bias tape is--of course--cut on the bias, it frays very little as the garment is worn and washed. The end result is kind of like the "Straight Turn and Stitch" method in this video! Instructions: [1] Sew the bias tape to your fashion fabric right sides together; [2] Press the seam open; [3] Wrap the bias tape to the wrong side to encase the raw edge of the fashion fabric; [4] Don't fold the bias tape under on the wrong side, just press the single layer of bias tape flat; [5] With the right side facing up, finish the binding by 'stitching in the ditch' (i.e, sewing on the line between fashion fabric and bias tape that was created with Step 1). Tips: A slightly shorter stitch results in an almost-invisible 'stitch in the ditch' finish. [Optional]: Depending on the seam allowance of your first seam and/or the width of your bias tape, you may wish to trim the raw edge on the underside down to 1/8". Last but not least, this method is great for finishing knit items too! Instead of pre-made bias tape (which does not stretch as much as required for knits), you can make your own from the same fabric as the garment, or you can use strips of Power Net (tight mesh) fabric. Happy sewing!
Thank you for your videos. I absolutely love that you are teaching vintage sewing tips because I'm believe the old ways are better than the new. Having the skills to do things old school will help so much.
I absolutely love all of your videos. It makes me so much more confident as I get to learn every week from you. My grandmother is a professional seamstress and my grandfather and her subsequent boyfriends have also been professional Tailors, and I'm the only one out of five children and 11 grandchildren who actually likes to sew, so I'm getting to really bond with my grandmother in a way that I haven't been able to before Oh, this is so special to me thank you so so much
I learned some of those seam finishes in 8th grade, which was about 1964. I was also taught to iron my seams open, and since practically everything was ironed after washing that worked well. Some years later a friend taught me that if something needed to be ironed in order to wear it, get rid of it. What a concept! So I developed my own usual seam finishing for most everyday clothing. After sewing the seam I zig-zag close to the seam and then trim it. I then fold over the seam which ever direction makes most sense and top stitch. When the item is finished I wash it and trim all the threads that frayed lose from the seams. Now it will virtually have no more fraying, the seams will always stay in place (no ironing), and it will hold up to rough use. Not as pretty as a serger or some of the other examples but very sturdy for every day use clothing, especially with cotton-like fabrics.
Do you top stitch the folded seam just within the seam, or do you stitch through from the right side of the garment? Also, don't you have a "seam and overlock" stitch on your machine that you can use with the foot that keeps the overlocked stitch from bunching up? Because, for appropriate fabrics, you can cut your seam allowance to the width of the stitch (1/4 inch is often good) and then sew the seam overlocked, and no trimming is needed. I totally agree with the ironing principle. I'm happy to press like crazy during production, but getting the full-size ironing board out is a pain and I refuse to do it for clothes that are in use. I will also do extra finishing and stitching to achieve the no-iron result, such as edge-stitching where it seems appropriate. I also carefully hang thin, breezy summer clothes straight from the washing machine and tug all the seams, hems and other edges straight. They are washed cold and handled cold to avoid shrinkage.
Yay!! I think alot of people have started in the last month! I have heaps is videos that will help you here, and if you really want to learn come join Vintage Sewing School as that's where all the structured lessons and worshops are that will really get you sewing 😄
I have to admit that I haven't sewn for years, and still have my old 1939 Bernina 117k. I used it to make clothes for my kids and me for years. Now my daughter got me a new/used pfaff. Getting used to it, but miss my old workhorse. So grateful to have had a mother teach me to sew. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge here. Very helpful.
I learned to sew on my mothers straight stitch circa 1946 Singer 15-91. Sewed when my sons were young - 25 years ago. I actually inherited the Singer when my mother passed. Have always loved clothes and especially fabric! The feel - the way it drapes. During the Pandemic thought I should give it a go again. My goodness! I have forgotten more than I ever knew........ You have been a delight and a life saver! Particularly your seam finishes. Love your videos. Love your passion. Love your explanations. I am an old lady now. I live in Florida. Just bought some beautiful light linen for a tunic and loose capris. Got the pattern today. Pretty certain I can pull this off. Love you Evelyn!
I'm so glad to see the hand felled seam on the list. It is my favourite too. I think I've been turned off overlocked seams due to cheap clothing using the overlocker to produce the seam itself and not just the finishing which I find impossible to press to one side.
I'm over stressed out because I lost everything I had and got a whole new sewing machine with all these stitches like over 24 . Iv learned how to do all this in school over ten years ago . Just got a cheap sewing machine that just has sixteen stitches with thee foots on it realizing that's all I really needed cause I started of with a basic strong hand me downs . And that's all that's really needed with practice . This made me remember . Thank u so much.
I love your advice, especially with your charming Aussie accent. My serger and I never bonded, too hard to thread, gave it away. Love my brand new Janome with several zigzag choices. Have done all the seams you demoed and love French seams, flat felled and bound seams. I’m 75, sewing since age 10 and still learning. It has been so interesting to see the newer trends and techniques in sewing. Especially loved the demo of your wrist pin cushion, I totally love it! It’s the first thing I seize when starting to sew! I’ve made everything from exercise wear and swim suits to wedding dresses. I love clothing construction and crafts. You are inspiring!
I enjoy the finished look of the bound seam. It looks very high end/ couture to me. I like it for items like a jacket because others are likely to see the inside of the garment while it’s worn open or when it’s doffed at an outing. It’s just a little wink of something extra that makes it look properly finished!
Totally! Sometimes people ask me why I invest so much work into something that nobody will ever see but that is wrong - e. g. when I undress at the gym the inside of my clothes is on display. And if really no one sees it, I see it still.
Im so glad you have the heart to do this video. I am a beginner to sew and i definitely don't have money for a serger. Thank you so much for this. Love the videos
When I was very young, around 1965, I was taught to actually cut out my patterns using pinking shears so my seams would be finished with no extra work. Today I cringe at the thought. Thanks for sharing your expertise with me!
I was very young when I learned to sew. I too was taught to cut through the tissuey pattern as well. I also cringe at the thought... If I hadn't, I would've had more options - regarding sizing and creative alterations that work with my height, curves, etc. That being said, it was NOT a problem in the immediate sense. I started making my own pattens from newsprint and/or brown grocery store paper bags, very soon after I caught the sewing bug!! I still make my own pattens, using my exact measurements so the only cringe is from having "ruined" really cool old patterns when young and tossing the lot as a young adult.
I agree, pinking shears was my early finishing process. I do cringe at the thought of doing this now!! I totally get it. Being self taught, You can see my progress in my early pieces to now. I hardly use those pinking shears that I had to have, anymore!! And I use wax paper to trace over my tissue patterns then transfer to paper bags, this works like a charm!! I can't believe I used to cut up my tissue patterns😭
I usually knit and only sporadically went to my grandmother to use her sewing machine. But recently, my grandmother bought me a little sewing machine since I was really interested in trying out more things (I love her, it was a fantastic gift!). I just moved into my completely own apartment and sew all my curtains. It might seem silly, but even if it was an easy project, I am really proud of me and my little sawing machine :). I am trying to learn something new every week or so and your videos are great to get new ideas on how to improve my skills. So thank you very much!
Glad you showed the straight turn and stitch. I was taught to use that option as well as pinking shears. All our clothing went through the washing machine and roller system and never had any damage to the clothing. Enjoy all your videos always. Thanks
i was in junior high and high school in the 80s. i took several home ec courses and i don't remember finished seams ever being taught and none of my clothing i made in my teen and adult years ever had it. i knew it wasn't pretty, but i didn't know any other way. in the early 90s i dreamed up a way of encasing the seam. i never actually tried it, but in my mind i could not imagine why it would not work. years later, i found it that it was already dreamed up and called a french seam. i haven't made a garment in a long time, but the next time i try, i plan on finishing those seams!
Such nice information for beginners who were worried they'd need both machines to have a nice finish. Maybe one day I'll nab myself a serger but until then this is very much appreciated. ☺️
I love the "French seam too & employ it whenever I can. I am pleased that you suggest bias tape for binding the armholes. That’s been such a worry for me as I hated every other seam finished neatly but the armholes ? Ugh ! Thank you soooo much 💕
I got an overlocker recently, which is great. However the most enjoyable is a felled seam. I find it very calming to sew the stitches, almost like meditating 😌 Ommmmm
I like a felled seam on the seams of my long-sleeved blouses, including the ones made of silk. They lie flat for ironing, making ironing quicker and easier.
I so appreciate this video! I have a 1956 Singer which pre-dates zig-zag stitch and I’m just getting into making garments so I really appreciate the various options that you suggest. I was taught how to hand sew seams so I recognize the felled seam even though I didn’t remember that’s what it was called. The machine has a foot for adding binding, so I might experiment with that finish for my next garment.
I love pretty seams. When I was very young, we were taught to press our seams open as usual, then fold the raw edges inward on top of the seam allowance for approx. 1/4 inch and press. Finally, we'd fold all but one side of the seam allowance out of the way and stitch a piece of lace seam binding on top, securing the raw edge underneath. And of course we'd repeat this on the other side of the seam allowance. The end result was beautiful. We'd use the lace binding on our hems too. When visiting, my grandmother would always check my skirts to make sure I'd "done them right". I'm not particularly fond of serged seams or serged seam allowances. The first can be rough against sensitive skin and the second just doesn't look right - to me anyway, considering the way I was taught. For my part nowadays (and depending upon the fabric used), I prefer a French seam or overcast edges. But I've done Hong Kong finishes too, as well as pinked edges. Sergers can be very useful and have their place, but I just don't like them for finishing seam allowances. That's just me I guess.
I came here expressly to review the felled seam. The apron I'm making is of light canvas and I wanted the look and strength of a machine felled seam, but the instructions wanted me to use a serger, which I don't own. Your instructions are the best. Thanks!
You are the first of the many RUclips seamstresses I love who used pinking shears! Using them for fabric is so ingrained in me that I've been cringing for years watching everyone using straight shears :). I feel so much better now!
Yea. Something to watch and on my fav subject. Be glad when you are able to go thrifting again. More videos..Passed it on to my sister who has an overlocker but does not know how to use it.
What a great topic Evelyn, you are so awesome to present this. The French seam is my favorite but have never attempted it because I’m a coward lol! I don’t have a serger machine so I use the zig zag technique. Thank you for being a leader in our global sewing community! I’ve learned a lot....happy sewing everyone!!! 🧵✂️🧵
I've made French seams and zigzagged seams. I've also used pinking shears (most common as it's how I learned). The felled seam looks interesting. Thanks! Blessings to all!!!! 🌺🌺
I have been sewing for 55+ years. I have sewed with a Kenmore Circa 1970 for a long time. Fast forward to 3 weeks ago. Won $$$ at the casino with my sister and decided to purchase a new machine. After some research I fell in love with a bernette b79. Gasp! Leaving my Kenmore behind? Probably. But…… this new machine is wonderful! Now to seam finishing. There are a number of stitches but I find the blanket stitch absolutely the best for seam finishing also. Love your videos and appreciate your skills and instruction of the highest quality. Thanks!
love how you explain and your energy too. Great. ( i am a man/66 that have had some sewing experience 30 years ago. And now i have more time to get behind the machine and or by hand. I have not uses much different seamfinishes except the french en just fold twice. for trousers. Just a bit rough but sufficient. i am working on learning more and back to my earlier lessons. IMO this was very good since the guy had been working in confection for many years and upgraded to be the head of opera ateliers special effects. (like making a custom build costume for the autumnking who should look as if he just came from a muddy pool/dirty. This was done by painting in various baths en also making his own thread. ) Higher school for me but interesting. Now back to here. A question you might be able to answer. I have a vest/ blouse without sleaves that i like to add on both in width and in lenght. the material is course linen. i have cut the pieces (2 sides + added lenghts) and 2 pieces on the bottom to add lenght. How would you recommend to me to make this nice and neat. btw it is for my not live in womanfriend who refuses to give her measures so i have to go by memory and some clothes. i would want to add the material in a sturdy and elegant way without closing the side seams.
Am sewing infant photo prop tutu for a friend. I decided to use nylon bath scrunchies, cut the cord in the middle straighten it out. It's much softer on infant skin. Extremely inexpensive, easily washable but very slippery, your hints and tips are helpful. Likely I can find suggestions on using uniquely slippery fabrics like the nylon bath scrunched bath sponge.
I appreciate hearing this collection on seams. The flat fell, (I hope I got the spelling right) is the most difficult, time-consuming, and craft to learn. To get that look, I have tried the French seam, then sew it down to appear like a flat fell seam; oops :)
That was so helpful. Was using an overlocking seam on loose woven fabric i was going to throw out as it was still not holding together well. I'm going to give the bound seams a try as it heaps of fabric I'd hate to see go to waste.
I love hand sewing over a machine. 1) I no longer have a machine 2) I could never sew straight or neatly with a machine. I will definitely use the felled seam on a wrap skirt with sheer fabric and the bound seam for a winter dress I am making. Thankfully, these are seams I think came be handled with hand sewing. Thank you for your videos!
I love "False Felled Seams". Zigzag all of your edges with an overlock foot before sewing a single seam (Makes sewing so much neater and less linty or ravelly). By Zigzagging every edge you don't have to worry about places that become inaccessible while sewing. Sew your seem as pattern requires. Press the seam and then press the seam allowance towards one side of your garment (Be consistent throughout the project). Now with the seam lying flat on the fabric, top stitch 1/4" or 3/8" away from the seam on the side that you pressed too catching the fabric and the seam allowances. I like 1/4" because it is the width of the standard presser foot. As durable as a well done Flat Felled Seam with none of the trimming and turning. The overlocked Zigzag edges are the key... a stitch in time saves nine!
Even in the '90s, my grandma use to sew with her old Signer sewing machine with pedal (no electricity). With that type of sewing machine, there was no zig zag stitches available... I think that "straight turn and stitch" and "French seam" were the best way to finish garments other than pinking shears.
I grew up with my mother sewing on a pre-WW2 White Rotary sewing machine. It had a zig-zag attachment that used to freak me out as a little kiddo -- It moved the fabric back and forth while at the same time moving along with the feed dogs. It was ever-so-civilized when finally a machine with a built-in zig-zag stitch came into our lives.
Hello Evelyn! I have a very old sewing machine that has straight stitches and zigzag on it. I'd love to see a tutorial on how to finish a seem using the zigzag stitch. I don't know how to do it, and would love to learn! Thanks for all of your videos. I learn something new every time! ~Janet in Canada
In the ‘70s when my mom was teaching me how to sew, the most hated tedious thing she made me do was over-edge all the raw edges on my projects. Her Singer gold Touch n Sew is the only machine I’ve ever known that can actually do a look alike overlock stitch. Not even my Viking or Pfaff machines can match it. She got a serger in the late ‘80s early’90s and I sort of absconded with it/she gave it to me when I got back into sewing before my daughter was born in ‘93. I had to replace it in 2020. I was so sad to give it up, but I now have a Brother that is very close to it.
My mom used to use so many of these stitches to finish the seams. And I would sit by her side and patiently wait to wear the clothes stitched by her. It was so nice to come across these. My mom doesn't sew much anymore due to old age. Also, she did like to do the French seam. And well she created the zig zag edges but without the pinking shears, with just plain normal scissors and her zig zags were way bigger.
So I've finished my first ever dress yesterday. Ahm, seam finishes? My dress is like a bad crime movie. Has a lot's of loose ends. The dress looks cool and I would love to wear it regularly. But I think I'll save it as a memory and make a new one. Thank you for the video!
I’m so thrilled to find your channel! I just watched your video about understitching, and now this one, because I always feel self-conscious about my seams, because I don’t have a serger…. I wouldn’t call myself a beginner sewer. But I am self taught, and still learning. So this has been a great, and valuable find! Thank you for making these videos!
Really appreciate this. I'm a fairly experienced self taught sewer. I work on vintage machine that doesn't have a zigzag stitch and having been trying to find some better ways to finish my seams 💛
I learned to create each of the seam finishes you presented in this video. I have been sewing since I was 6 years of age. I still have my tiny Singer hand-crank machine that is now about 83 years old. I was fortunate to have many quilters and sewists in my family. I also had sewing as a course while in my USA school curriculum, grades 7 through 12. At University, I took several elective courses in clothing design, clothing construction, pattern making, and vintage couture sewing techniques. I especially love to create bound buttonholes! They are so beautiful, and they add a couture finish to a piece. My two favorite seam finishes are the French seam and felled seams. The French seam creates a lovely finish, resulting in a garment that is as beautiful on the inside as it is on the outside. Felled seams are beautiful! They also add additional strength and structure a seam. I also use lacy binding to finish seams. It also works as well as a lovely hemline finish. Seam finishes and bound buttonholes are examples of applying the finishing touch to any garment or sewing project. Thank you for providing a visual excursion of these techniques! You're a wonderful educator! Dr. Lana
You made me decide on getting a straight seam machine (no ugly zigzag), or simply hand sewing my dresses. Thank you very much for narrowing down the choice!
When I made my first dress, I sewed it entirely with French seams. I divided the 5/8” seam allowance into a 1/4” seam and a 3/8” seam. I made it from a polyester satin and slipped all over the place and the dress ended up way too big because I didn’t know that there is way too much ease drafted into Big 4 commercial patterns and I didn’t know how to mock up a wrap dress.
I first learned to make a french seam from a pattern for a pioneer style dress when my daughter was little. It never used the term french seam. When the pattern said put wrong sides together, i thought there must be some mistake but soldiered on and loved the finish. When I showed the dress to her great-grandmother, she complimented me on my beautiful french seams. She was an accomplished sewer and I was very flattered. I've been using french seams ever since, especially for things that might get lots of wear. I have used the zigzag that works like a serger, too. The one I learned as a beginner was the pinked seam; I have never cared for it. This is a great video that i will use when helping begininng sewers; you explain everything so well.
I'm serger-less and about to make my first pair of jeans, so I'm looking for ideas on how to handle that. Thanks so much for sharing these ideas! Now just to practice on scrap fabric and see if a felled seam will work for me. (And, no, I will not hand fell anything. I'm far too lazy.)
Oh, Evelyn ! What a spellbinding, instructional video. You are the epitome of class and womanliness ! All of this aside, I should have learned to sew my own dress shirts long ago. My neck size has always been disproportional with my chest. Now that I'm 75 and really filling out, that issue is not so evident. But, now, I am sewing my own special sporran which I use under baggy pants or a kilt. Using duck cloth to provide body and form, this woven fabric frays like crazy. Am going to try some zig zag's.
Thank you so much for your presentation of all these seam finishings. Just found your channel :-). It‘s so great - it makes my way more easy to reactivite my sewing skills slept for over 25 years .😊👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I learned how to do French seams in school in 1975. I know I just dated myself there, hahaha. I absolutely love that finish and have used it in almost all the garments I have sewn all these years later. For items that are never going to be washed, I normally use my pinking shears or simply zigzag the edges of the fabric.
Hello Evelyn, thank you very much for showing this options. The felted seam with handstiching will become my favorite in the future. I didn`t knew this stich until yet. It looks amazing! The honkong seam will give me a good solution for my Armholes in heavy coats. It is so clean, and I`m often so annoyed , if I do it with my overlock. Best regards from Germany, Sabine
I don't sew garments, but this video and the one on understitching could also be helpful on sewing bags. I refuse to have raw edges in anything I make! Makes it look cheap and unprofessional. I'm happy I came across your videos!!
Excellent! I'm glad that you mentioned some techniques I can use hand-sewing. I'm working without a sewing machine in the first place, so buying a serger was entirely out of the question. After my first hand-made shirt unraveled quite rapidly in the wash, I did some sewing hacks to hide the raw edges on my second project--I think the french seam will be my go-to for my next project.
I am very impressed by your videos. I just found them tonight. You're an excellent teacher, very clear. Had to laugh when you couldn't remember what an armhole was, though. Subscribed. 👍🏽
The singer bias tape attachment worked great. Fully adjustable then just so it down. Great for stress points on elbows for light jackets. My other best friend the walking foot attachment to sew over the tape.
I absolutely loath overlockers! I don’t know what it is, I just can’t get on with them and I’ve ru8ned so many projects trying to get to grips with them so I’ve given up! I find french seams a bit finicky so only use them on sheer or very lightweight fabrics and I love a tiny rolled hem on sleeves too! For regular sewing I think I’ll be trying flat felt seams by hand! They look lovely and neat. I have one question though... which way do you fold the seam allowance? Towards the back of the garment? Also often use false french seams if it’s something that may need adjust. They’re super easy and I not know why more people don’t use them! All you do is sew your seam as normal, then fold the edges of the seam allowance to the middle, then fold the folded seams together and sew a nice neat line a few mm away from the edge! If you match your edges well and use a matching thread, they look just like french seams! (But they don’t have the headache of measuring and cutting!)
Carrie, thanks for mentioning this faux French seam. I’ve never heard of it!! I’m very curious snd I’m gonna go a little research and try it myself!! Thanks again!!
@@n1iwr No problem!! They’re super easy and look great too. I’ve also seen people whip stitch over the top of the two folded edges which gives an even finer look - I think this may be the couture method. Good luck with it!
Oooooo thank you I will use the hand sewn feld seam - I wondered why some side seams on recycled clothes are so hard to take apart!!! Hand sewing is a good excuse in front of Netflix or RUclips video break 💓
for mid weight woven cottons including flannel and corduroy and some mid weight polyesters I use pinking shears and leave it at that when the results of prewashing and drying indicates the cut edges do not fray significantly. For other fabrics that may unravel I use a variety of finishes, currently french seams are a favorite for light weight fabrics along with serging . Felled seams are fun if the fabric cooperates so I can effectively press the fold prior to sewing it down.
Sometimes with lighter fabrics, I take both the sides of the seam allowances together, push the raw edges inside and close the seam with an invisible stitch or a whip stitch. I don't know if it's an actual thing with a name, but I guess it is because my teacher taught me!
I use a 1956, 201K Singer, which my dad bought my mom for her 21st birthday, so no zigzag. I use either pinking shears, over stitch by hand, or bind depending on the fabric and the item being made. I might try the felled seam, it looks nice and neat.
I just got into hand sewing this pandemic and I'm now on my third hand sewn rectangles-and-gores medieval style dress and I've done felled seams on all of them, feels very satisfying to do.
Your videos are so helpful. They're the perfect length and go in depth just enough to get a good idea of each technique. I've been sewing off and on since I was a kid, but have often cut corners and eventually decided I hated sewing because it required so many steps (ironically, I am a knitter). But, I found a set of patterns that I'm just dying to try, and now that I've watched at least a dozen of your videos, I feel ready to commit to the full process! Thank you!
I’ve been working on upping my hand sewing skills for the last couple years and really love felled seams. They are remarkably strong and very comfy against the skin. Very difficult to do on sharply curved areas like an arm hole though. I also don’t like the bulk of bound finishes in a lightweight garment and searching for another option didn’t find anything that suited me. I use a fine thread and sew a blanket stitch around the curved areas. It serves the same purpose as an overlock or zigzag stitch but is less likely to warp the edge or add bulk and can be done by hand in front of the television in the evening. For extra security on some fabrics I will use the same stitch I use for felling and invisibly tack down the seam allowances to reduce the friction from shifting around in the washing machine. So far, this has worked very well for me.
This was a great video. You clearly outlined the type of finishing seams and how/when these finishes should be used. Your sampling were neat and easy to understand. Thank you for providing clear and concise content.
I love this video! Thank you. I made a wool coat years ago with Hong Kong finished seams. My professor loved it. It was a theater costume construction class.
I got lucky and inherited a serger from my mom (I love it's brand name as it's called a Huskylock and I love huskies 😀), so in my sewing I use serged seams a lot. Since I've been watching Bernadette Banner I've also started doing more handsewing, so I'm using felled seams as well, like on a skirt I refashioned with a lace trim and cotton backing to make it longer. The new seams I would like to incorporate are definitely the French seam or felled seam that is stitched down with a double line and the bound seam, as I am going to need the first one for office wear I want to make out of mens shirts 😀. And the second one I want to use on the armholes of some dresses/vest/shirts etc. Exciting new steps to take and things to learn!
Head to www.vintagesewingschool.com/ to really up-level your sewing! 😀 Tell me, what seam finishes do you use? Or what do you want to learn to use?
It is a great skill to have, to understand the different finishes and when to use them! You could try doing little samplers of each to learn!
These days without a dedicated sewing space getting my overlocker out is too hard so I've loved playing around with other seam finishes
I felled the seams of a skirt and while it took forever I have to agree with how lovely and professional it looks
I'm also planning on sewing a coat with an old wool blanket and until I track down some lining fabric at the opshop my plan is to do bound seams in a decorative fabric
My current wip is a woolen dress and while I'm drafting the pattern in puzzling over how I will do the seams, I love the hand felled seams but doing a whole dress sounds like a pain but I have no binding and can't get out to the fabric store
Pinking, French felled seams, zigzag, Roll and turn and bound seams I used in school are the three I use most often.
Good morning from Maine. How do you finish a curved seam that will need to be clipped? I don't have a serger, so is my only option zig-zagging close to the stitch line and prayer?
Hand felling is my favorite for linen; mock French seams for delicate fabrics. Hand work is soothing for me, plus it has the benefit of being portable; I can keep my hands busy doing something useful while waiting for the doctor or watching RUclips videos (!).
It is so funny how in France we call the "french seam" "couture anglaise", which litterally means "english seams"... Where is it from then?
Canada
Canada fooled us all with their English/French combinations.
They are from rural Europe. Burgess taylors didn't know were it came from, so they named it after the 'fancier' place.
Probably Asia.
Probably Spain, lol
My disappointment when I was first starting to sew and wanting to learn how to do a professional finish and it was done with a whole other machine outside of a sewing machine, was immeasurable. There was no way I was dropping several hundreds of dollars for a second machine!
I bet you've found alot of other ways to gunyah your seams!
The serger can be used for lots of other things than finishing seams - eg. sewing jersey fabrics with flexible seams or fast sewing and trimming in one go for bedlinen and things like that. I wouldn’t do without mine ;-)
This is me today :( thinking the seam of the pants I was making my daughter was going to look like the ones from the shops I buy from online. Reality check
I wasn't going to spend even a hundred for the first one. Got an old used one and for free and paid about half to get it tuned up.
@@helenebrochmann8781 must be nice to have an extra couple hundred dollars or more.
I grew up wearing homemade clothes, both knitted and sewn - I considered myself very lucky as I was given free reign to choose the fabric/yarn colour and feel, and Mum would make everything in the next size up so it could be let out as needed. She sewed PJs, slacks, shirts, skirts, jackets, dresses and knitted Jumpers, hats, cardigans, scarves, gloves, etc. Mum did all this on an old Singer machine with a treadle plate - although the plate was hooked up to electricity so she only had to press her toes down when she wanted to sew, rather that rock back and forth. The machine belonged to Nana (Dad's Mum), who had the machine's treadle electrified when her ankles became arthritic. Back in the early 1980s, I learned "garment construction" at School, and I was amazed at the machines we learned on - so many different stitches! And a REVERSE button! I did have a little experience on our Singer and found it laborious to sew 5 or 6 stitches, then have to leave the needle down, raise the foot, pivot the fabric, lower the foot, sew 5 or 6 stitches back along the line I did, then with needle down, raise, pivot, lower and continue sewing the seam - then to go through that whole process again at the end of the seam! Each and every seam! Just one stitch in one direction. Mum taught me french and flat-felled seams and bound arm/neck holes before I learned their names at school. To inspire me at school, Mum said she'd pay half toward my own sewing machine when I finished Year 12 (1986). I am not a knitter, but I love sewing! Nana's Singer now lives in my bedroom - quite usable, but not as easy to use as my more modern machines. Actually, the old Singer never got snagged threads, didn't suffer with varying thicknesses of fabric like my modern machines so maybe they're not so perfect either!
😄 Definetly pluses and minuses for each!
I started sewing at 4 years of age on an old Phoenix machine from ca. 1890. In the 60s, there were still many of them around. It was a zigzag machine, but when it was built, Singer held the patent for the - how do you call it in English - the part of the machine that holds the needle and moves left and right in order to do the zigzag. This Phoenix had the alternative "Mundlos" system, where the feed dogs were pivoting the fabric in a sort of pendulum movement to provide zigzag stitches. You really had to concentrate with that one! This is why I often hand-overcast in difficult places and I still do it today when all else is lost.
When we finally got a new electric machine I liked the multitude of stitches (though they came out very irregular most of the time, it was no great machine) but I hatedhatedhated the electric presser foot. It would make a buzzing noise first and nothing else, and with the next millimeter of pressure the machine would run off like a charging bull. Where with the mechanical machine, I had been able to curl my toes around the edge of the pedal, giving me perfect control and so much more power than the puny little motor had. Sigh...
What a lovely story. I have my husband's grandmother's old treadle machine that was electrified and the treadle removed. I never sew on it because the cord is like rope and I'm afraid it's a fire hazard. Its fun to look at.
I love all reading all these stories!! I have to admit I’m pretty jealous of everyone that had sewing instruction at school. I’m 21, graduated high school in 2017, and we never learned anything like that at all. I see comments on all kinds of sewing and embroidery videos from people saying they needed to learn it for school and it blows my mind, I wish they had taught us that kind of stuff. (I’m in the American south btw) Now I’m trying to learn sewing on my own, and keep taking very very long breaks because I have pretty much no knowledge of garment construction, and since I’m plus sized and not shaped the way commercial patterns want me to be, I pretty much have to draft my own patterns if I want to make my own clothes. And I’m so jealous of the older sewing machines you guys have! My mom and I used to use my grandmother’s, which I think was from the 60s, but it finally broke a year or two ago. The modern one we’ve been using since, I honestly think is possessed or something... it does the same thing of making a humming noise and not moving at all, then all of a sudden shooting off at light-speed. I seriously cannot get it to go at a slower pace. I’ve watched a lot of professional sewers on RUclips and I’ve never seen any of them go at a pace as fast as this machine’s slowest pace, it drives me crazy. So now I’m learning to hand sew, lol!
@@mallory1304 you may want to consider dropping off that fast machine to a sewing machine repair person because it may just need a quick fix. Most fabric stores can give you the contact info for repair shops. If the machine is just being too ugly to deal with consider a beginner level machine because they are less than $200 and if you can split the cost with someone that would be so worth it in your learning and enjoyment. Be aware that many are out of stock because there are so many folks buying them during lockdown, but it is worth trying to locate one. My gram taught me to sew on buttons when I was 5 and legally blind (congenital tumors) and when my sight became functional a few years later neighbor taught me to sew in the late 1950’s into the ‘60’s .My first machine was a second hand basic singer when I was 12 , cost $20 of my babysitting money and only went forward with the tension thingy that would always go wonky but I loved that machine and in short order I was making most of my school dresses, skirts, blouses, and pajamas. You can also get second hand machines at sewing machine shops and they are usually refurbished and include a lesson or two. A mechanical machine as opposed to a computerized one, will give you the basic stitches you need and also remain inexpensive to repair if the need arises, as opposed to computerized machines. Good for you for hand sewing. I make hand sewn doll clothes for sale and it is easy to manipulate and sew the tiny pieces by hand plus the buyers do not mind paying more for the effort and nice results. It is a stress free way to sew, right? I read an article about the issue of cheap clothing and the author pointed out a survey that indicated about 80% of people toss out garments if they lose a button or need a small hem or seam repair because they say they have no time to hand sew!
I love french seams, all my edwardian blouses have them it makes the inside so neat (in french they are called "coutures anglaises" = english seams which i find funny idk)
That is funny! I have a few peices too thatI admire fir this and want to replicate!
I had read this too. So funny! Mutual admiration...
In Dutch they're also called "English seams" or Engelse naad.
Me, who has been obsessively watching Bernadette Banner for the last 18 months: WHEN ARE YOU GONNA TALK ABOUT FELLED SEAMS
Evelyn: felled seams
Me: yesssssssssssss
I'm trying french seams for the first time making a 1908 walking skirt at the moment! I've never got on with overlockers when I've had access to them, so I'll be referring back to this vid when I'm planning my next project :)
🤣🤣 Yay! First French seams! They are wonderful, the only downside for me is, that you can't fit a garment as you go with them (without great difficulty that is!) But it your pattern fit is perfect, 😄😄😄!
@@Evelyn__Wood I would also be hesitant for that reason, but I made a mock-up and skirts are probably the most forgiving of garments :)
Same, I absolutely love Bernadette Banner and have actually done some felled seams on my own because of her lol
Same here Rebecca... (I am a fellow Bannerite or what ever we Bernadette Banner fans call ourselves)
Thank you so much for your videos, Evelyn! I’m a young guy who inherited a sewing machine when my aunt passed away. I’m a novice and your videos are helping my projects look much more professional
I actually saw French seam from that one time I tried to pick apart a garment to use it as fabric. I didn't knew what it was called but the first thing that went to my mind was "that was just brilliant, I'm just gonna use this every time I got the chance". I always use it on totebags because it looks really durable, like you can trust that bag to hold your things and not break.
I'm a new sewer. Very self taught. Your videos are my favourite to learn from. Right now I am trying to follow a beginners pattern and your videos are saving me! I thought you should know that you're work is helping foster a new creative skill for me. Thanks for sharing your knowledge :)
You're a GEM. This was exceptionally informative and helpful. Thank you for posting this! 🎉 ❤
Hand-felled and french seams are my favorites!
😍😍 Yes!! I bet you have really neat garment insides if you do these as your 'go to'!
Hand felled looks so lush and highend to my - LOVE it
Evelyn Wood I try to! Just felled down a bunch of seams on a wrap top last night, and it was actually quite nice and soothing.
I always use the french seam. I think it is more durable compared to the zigzig one.
My favorite way to do it is a faux French seam that gets whip stitched to close it.
Love french seams. The first garment I did French seams on was the first garment I really loved and still wear. A Tilly and the Buttons cami top. So lovely.
@@MattPhonee need to look this up. Thanks
@@boollyboolly Anytime!
@@boollyboolly But isn't it difficult on curves?
I love felling seams by hand. I don't know why I like them so much, but I think that they are incredibly fun to do. I've also been experimenting with the rolled hem foot on my 1910 Singer 66, and I am loving that as well. I don't like the look of serged edges, which is great, because it means I don't have to buy a serger.
Yes no need for a serger indeed!! All finishes by hand are the best!!
I think I have a rolled hem foot. I am excited to give that a try. Never thought about using it as a seam finish but I like the idea!
Just pinking shears
Every time I see one of your videos I am astonished at your sweet spirit. You are just a lovely person both inside and out. Thank you for all your wonderful videos.
Aww thankyou Debra that is so sweet and just makes my day! Thankyou for watching!
I totally agree! I feel like she is sitting there talking to me
I, too, like it a lot. And I like her version of english speaking. I fell in love with that language many years ago (I am german) and Evelyn is just using the language in an adorable manner. Love it! And what she says as well. That's for sure!
Thanks so much. Many sewists
do not have a serger but we want lovely seams. Once
again it’s you to our rescue.
Great thanks from St. Louis,
USA.
What a lightbulb moment! So the double rows on mens shirts are felled seams... love your tutorials!
Yes! A flat felled seam. 😀
I enjoyed this tutorial very much. It was charming and inspiring, and took me back to the 1960s -- the final age in which the ordinary woman could sew and regularly wore couture-worthy garments. Back in the 1980s, couture sewing techniques and the serious study of garment construction started disappearing from high school home economics classes. I was shocked when I did not have to take my daughter to shop for fabric for her home ec project, buy the right size pattern, figure yardage, or gather tools and supplies to sew a garment. I had to pay for a silly kit that was shipped to the school to sew in class. It was a box of pre-cut fake fur pieces of a foot-shaped pillow. With such an uninspiring project to complete, and no exposure to the real world of choosing and getting to know materials and make a real, wearable garment, it's no wonder few students had any interest in sewing. It has become very hard, where I live, to find anyone who can sew or alter clothing.
Please do a video on how you suggest to hand stitch. Love your channel!
GOOOOOOooooooooD! This is SOOO nice for you to cover! I've been trying to find this for YEAARS. I NEVER understood how to make things To- LOOK the way they're supposed too on other Things I just wanna express how Much this was NEEDED for me!
THANK THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU
Ps.
*Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!*
I love bias bound seams, with a variation. I reduce the bulk (well, one layer!) by leaving the bias tape on the "wrong side" as a single layer instead of folding it under. The raw edge is hidden on the underside, and since bias tape is--of course--cut on the bias, it frays very little as the garment is worn and washed. The end result is kind of like the "Straight Turn and Stitch" method in this video!
Instructions: [1] Sew the bias tape to your fashion fabric right sides together; [2] Press the seam open; [3] Wrap the bias tape to the wrong side to encase the raw edge of the fashion fabric; [4] Don't fold the bias tape under on the wrong side, just press the single layer of bias tape flat; [5] With the right side facing up, finish the binding by 'stitching in the ditch' (i.e, sewing on the line between fashion fabric and bias tape that was created with Step 1). Tips: A slightly shorter stitch results in an almost-invisible 'stitch in the ditch' finish. [Optional]: Depending on the seam allowance of your first seam and/or the width of your bias tape, you may wish to trim the raw edge on the underside down to 1/8".
Last but not least, this method is great for finishing knit items too! Instead of pre-made bias tape (which does not stretch as much as required for knits), you can make your own from the same fabric as the garment, or you can use strips of Power Net (tight mesh) fabric.
Happy sewing!
Thanks for the idea
Wish there was a picture.
Thank you for your videos. I absolutely love that you are teaching vintage sewing tips because I'm believe the old ways are better than the new. Having the skills to do things old school will help so much.
I absolutely love all of your videos. It makes me so much more confident as I get to learn every week from you. My grandmother is a professional seamstress and my grandfather and her subsequent boyfriends have also been professional Tailors, and I'm the only one out of five children and 11 grandchildren who actually likes to sew, so I'm getting to really bond with my grandmother in a way that I haven't been able to before Oh, this is so special to me thank you so so much
Awww this so sweet! How lovley you get to share this time with her! ❤
I learned some of those seam finishes in 8th grade, which was about 1964. I was also taught to iron my seams open, and since practically everything was ironed after washing that worked well. Some years later a friend taught me that if something needed to be ironed in order to wear it, get rid of it. What a concept! So I developed my own usual seam finishing for most everyday clothing. After sewing the seam I zig-zag close to the seam and then trim it. I then fold over the seam which ever direction makes most sense and top stitch. When the item is finished I wash it and trim all the threads that frayed lose from the seams. Now it will virtually have no more fraying, the seams will always stay in place (no ironing), and it will hold up to rough use. Not as pretty as a serger or some of the other examples but very sturdy for every day use clothing, especially with cotton-like fabrics.
Do you top stitch the folded seam just within the seam, or do you stitch through from the right side of the garment?
Also, don't you have a "seam and overlock" stitch on your machine that you can use with the foot that keeps the overlocked stitch from bunching up? Because, for appropriate fabrics, you can cut your seam allowance to the width of the stitch (1/4 inch is often good) and then sew the seam overlocked, and no trimming is needed.
I totally agree with the ironing principle. I'm happy to press like crazy during production, but getting the full-size ironing board out is a pain and I refuse to do it for clothes that are in use. I will also do extra finishing and stitching to achieve the no-iron result, such as edge-stitching where it seems appropriate. I also carefully hang thin, breezy summer clothes straight from the washing machine and tug all the seams, hems and other edges straight. They are washed cold and handled cold to avoid shrinkage.
Your enthusiasm is so charming. Thanks for all the great tips.
Quarantine got me into sewing, will definitely be using your videos for reference! Wish me luck 😂❤️
Yay!! I think alot of people have started in the last month! I have heaps is videos that will help you here, and if you really want to learn come join Vintage Sewing School as that's where all the structured lessons and worshops are that will really get you sewing 😄
I have to admit that I haven't sewn for years, and still have my old 1939 Bernina 117k. I used it to make clothes for my kids and me for years. Now my daughter got me a new/used pfaff. Getting used to it, but miss my old workhorse. So grateful to have had a mother teach me to sew. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge here. Very helpful.
I learned to sew on my mothers straight stitch circa 1946 Singer 15-91. Sewed when my sons were young - 25 years ago. I actually inherited the Singer when my mother passed. Have always loved clothes and especially fabric! The feel - the way it drapes. During the Pandemic thought I should give it a go again. My goodness! I have forgotten more than I ever knew........ You have been a delight and a life saver! Particularly your seam finishes. Love your videos. Love your passion. Love your explanations. I am an old lady now. I live in Florida. Just bought some beautiful light linen for a tunic and loose capris. Got the pattern today. Pretty certain I can pull this off. Love you Evelyn!
I'm so glad to see the hand felled seam on the list. It is my favourite too. I think I've been turned off overlocked seams due to cheap clothing using the overlocker to produce the seam itself and not just the finishing which I find impossible to press to one side.
I'm over stressed out because I lost everything I had and got a whole new sewing machine with all these stitches like over 24 . Iv learned how to do all this in school over ten years ago . Just got a cheap sewing machine that just has sixteen stitches with thee foots on it realizing that's all I really needed cause I started of with a basic strong hand me downs . And that's all that's really needed with practice . This made me remember . Thank u so much.
I love your advice, especially with your charming Aussie accent. My serger and I never bonded, too hard to thread, gave it away. Love my brand new Janome with several zigzag choices. Have done all the seams you demoed and love French seams, flat felled and bound seams. I’m 75, sewing since age 10 and still learning. It has been so interesting to see the newer trends and techniques in sewing. Especially loved the demo of your wrist pin cushion, I totally love it! It’s the first thing I seize when starting to sew! I’ve made everything from exercise wear and swim suits to wedding dresses. I love clothing construction and crafts. You are inspiring!
I enjoy the finished look of the bound seam. It looks very high end/ couture to me. I like it for items like a jacket because others are likely to see the inside of the garment while it’s worn open or when it’s doffed at an outing. It’s just a little wink of something extra that makes it look properly finished!
Yes Tash the bound seam is what I would use on an unlined jacket! You can even use contrast binding for a bit 'extra' too!
Totally! Sometimes people ask me why I invest so much work into something that nobody will ever see but that is wrong - e. g. when I undress at the gym the inside of my clothes is on display. And if really no one sees it, I see it still.
Im so glad you have the heart to do this video. I am a beginner to sew and i definitely don't have money for a serger. Thank you so much for this. Love the videos
Thanks for watching, I'm thrilled to hear it is just what you need! There are heaps of great seam finishes to do that do not include an overlocker! 😄
When I was very young, around 1965, I was taught to actually cut out my patterns using pinking shears so my seams would be finished with no extra work. Today I cringe at the thought. Thanks for sharing your expertise with me!
I'm not entirely clear; why do you cringe at the thought? Seems pretty practical to me, but is it just because it's not as durable as other seems?
@@AkiAmeko i was wondering the same thing
I was very young when I learned to sew. I too was taught to cut through the tissuey pattern as well. I also cringe at the thought... If I hadn't, I would've had more options - regarding sizing and creative alterations that work with my height, curves, etc.
That being said, it was NOT a problem in the immediate sense. I started making my own pattens from newsprint and/or brown grocery store paper bags, very soon after I caught the sewing bug!! I still make my own pattens, using my exact measurements so the only cringe is from having "ruined" really cool old patterns when young and tossing the lot as a young adult.
I agree, pinking shears was my early finishing process. I do cringe at the thought of doing this now!! I totally get it. Being self taught, You can see my progress in my early pieces to now. I hardly use those pinking shears that I had to have, anymore!! And I use wax paper to trace over my tissue patterns then transfer to paper bags, this works like a charm!! I can't believe I used to cut up my tissue patterns😭
I usually knit and only sporadically went to my grandmother to use her sewing machine. But recently, my grandmother bought me a little sewing machine since I was really interested in trying out more things (I love her, it was a fantastic gift!). I just moved into my completely own apartment and sew all my curtains. It might seem silly, but even if it was an easy project, I am really proud of me and my little sawing machine :). I am trying to learn something new every week or so and your videos are great to get new ideas on how to improve my skills. So thank you very much!
I love flat felled seams as a decorative seam as well! You can also flat fell with a twin needle or specialty stitch to give a decorative touch
I'm going to give this method a try.
Glad you showed the straight turn and stitch. I was taught to use that option as well as pinking shears. All our clothing went through the washing machine and roller system and never had any damage to the clothing. Enjoy all your videos always. Thanks
i was in junior high and high school in the 80s. i took several home ec courses and i don't remember finished seams ever being taught and none of my clothing i made in my teen and adult years ever had it. i knew it wasn't pretty, but i didn't know any other way. in the early 90s i dreamed up a way of encasing the seam. i never actually tried it, but in my mind i could not imagine why it would not work. years later, i found it that it was already dreamed up and called a french seam. i haven't made a garment in a long time, but the next time i try, i plan on finishing those seams!
I use the felled seam to make a boning chanel for my corset's mockups and I love it for other garments too
Such nice information for beginners who were worried they'd need both machines to have a nice finish. Maybe one day I'll nab myself a serger but until then this is very much appreciated. ☺️
I love the "French seam too & employ it whenever I can. I am pleased that you suggest bias tape for binding the armholes. That’s been such a worry for me as I hated every other seam finished neatly but the armholes ? Ugh ! Thank you soooo much 💕
I got an overlocker recently, which is great.
However the most enjoyable is a felled seam. I find it very calming to sew the stitches, almost like meditating 😌 Ommmmm
I like a felled seam on the seams of my long-sleeved blouses, including the ones made of silk. They lie flat for ironing, making ironing quicker and easier.
I so appreciate this video! I have a 1956 Singer which pre-dates zig-zag stitch and I’m just getting into making garments so I really appreciate the various options that you suggest. I was taught how to hand sew seams so I recognize the felled seam even though I didn’t remember that’s what it was called. The machine has a foot for adding binding, so I might experiment with that finish for my next garment.
I love pretty seams. When I was very young, we were taught to press our seams open as usual, then fold the raw edges inward on top of the seam allowance for approx. 1/4 inch and press. Finally, we'd fold all but one side of the seam allowance out of the way and stitch a piece of lace seam binding on top, securing the raw edge underneath. And of course we'd repeat this on the other side of the seam allowance. The end result was beautiful. We'd use the lace binding on our hems too. When visiting, my grandmother would always check my skirts to make sure I'd "done them right". I'm not particularly fond of serged seams or serged seam allowances. The first can be rough against sensitive skin and the second just doesn't look right - to me anyway, considering the way I was taught. For my part nowadays (and depending upon the fabric used), I prefer a French seam or overcast edges. But I've done Hong Kong finishes too, as well as pinked edges. Sergers can be very useful and have their place, but I just don't like them for finishing seam allowances. That's just me I guess.
I came here expressly to review the felled seam. The apron I'm making is of light canvas and I wanted the look and strength of a machine felled seam, but the instructions wanted me to use a serger, which I don't own. Your instructions are the best. Thanks!
I just started sewing this month and I wanted to let you know that your videos really help me get better ♥️
French seam is my favorite for now. Will try felled seam. Thank you, Evelyn.
You are the first of the many RUclips seamstresses I love who used pinking shears! Using them for fabric is so ingrained in me that I've been cringing for years watching everyone using straight shears :). I feel so much better now!
This is a lifesaver! My serger crapped out today and I need to finish my peplum skirt for my vest.
Yea. Something to watch and on my fav subject. Be glad when you are able to go thrifting again. More videos..Passed it on to my sister who has an overlocker but does not know how to use it.
🤣 Thankyou!! It might push her to use the overlocker, or find another method! 😂 I miss thrifting too!
What a great topic Evelyn, you are so awesome to present this. The French seam is my favorite but have never attempted it because I’m a coward lol! I don’t have a serger machine so I use the zig zag technique. Thank you for being a leader in our global sewing community! I’ve learned a lot....happy sewing everyone!!! 🧵✂️🧵
You never tried it yet!! Maybe just try a sample! I bet you'll like it! ❤
Thank you so much for making your videos. I just started out and your videos have been a huge help
You are so darling! You make me so excited to keep learning things about sewing that I always wish I knew.
I've made French seams and zigzagged seams. I've also used pinking shears (most common as it's how I learned). The felled seam looks interesting. Thanks! Blessings to all!!!! 🌺🌺
😄 You've tried a few!! And a felled seam sounds like it might be next on your list! It's much easier than French seams I think!
I have been sewing for 55+ years. I have sewed with a Kenmore Circa 1970 for a long time. Fast forward to 3 weeks ago. Won $$$ at the casino with my sister and decided to purchase a new machine. After some research I fell in love with a bernette b79. Gasp! Leaving my Kenmore behind? Probably. But…… this new machine is wonderful! Now to seam finishing. There are a number of stitches but I find the blanket stitch absolutely the best for seam finishing also. Love your videos and appreciate your skills and instruction of the highest quality. Thanks!
Great lesson on seams. Love your teaching skills.
love how you explain and your energy too. Great. ( i am a man/66 that have had some sewing experience 30 years ago. And now i have more time to get behind the machine and or by hand. I have not uses much different seamfinishes except the french en just fold twice. for trousers. Just a bit rough but sufficient. i am working on learning more and back to my earlier lessons. IMO this was very good since the guy had been working in confection for many years and upgraded to be the head of opera ateliers special effects. (like making a custom build costume for the autumnking who should look as if he just came from a muddy pool/dirty. This was done by painting in various baths en also making his own thread. ) Higher school for me but interesting. Now back to here. A question you might be able to answer. I have a vest/ blouse without sleaves that i like to add on both in width and in lenght. the material is course linen. i have cut the pieces (2 sides + added lenghts) and 2 pieces on the bottom to add lenght.
How would you recommend to me to make this nice and neat. btw it is for my not live in womanfriend who refuses to give her measures so i have to go by memory and some clothes.
i would want to add the material in a sturdy and elegant way without closing the side seams.
Am sewing infant photo prop tutu for a friend. I decided to use nylon bath scrunchies, cut the cord in the middle straighten it out. It's much softer on infant skin. Extremely inexpensive, easily washable but very slippery, your hints and tips are helpful. Likely I can find suggestions on using uniquely slippery fabrics like the nylon bath scrunched bath sponge.
I appreciate hearing this collection on seams. The flat fell, (I hope I got the spelling right) is the most difficult, time-consuming, and craft to learn. To get that look, I have tried the French seam, then sew it down to appear like a flat fell seam; oops :)
I do that too, make a French seam, then sew it down to make it look like a flat fell! Works!
Overlock, flatfeld seam, and French seam are my most commonly used seams. I used pinking shears when making doll clothes.
That was so helpful. Was using an overlocking seam on loose woven fabric i was going to throw out as it was still not holding together well. I'm going to give the bound seams a try as it heaps of fabric I'd hate to see go to waste.
I love hand sewing over a machine. 1) I no longer have a machine 2) I could never sew straight or neatly with a machine. I will definitely use the felled seam on a wrap skirt with sheer fabric and the bound seam for a winter dress I am making. Thankfully, these are seams I think came be handled with hand sewing. Thank you for your videos!
Love your red vintage look. Aside from your sewing content, I love your wonderful vintage look.🥰
I love "False Felled Seams". Zigzag all of your edges with an overlock foot before sewing a single seam (Makes sewing so much neater and less linty or ravelly). By Zigzagging every edge you don't have to worry about places that become inaccessible while sewing. Sew your seem as pattern requires. Press the seam and then press the seam allowance towards one side of your garment (Be consistent throughout the project). Now with the seam lying flat on the fabric, top stitch 1/4" or 3/8" away from the seam on the side that you pressed too catching the fabric and the seam allowances. I like 1/4" because it is the width of the standard presser foot. As durable as a well done Flat Felled Seam with none of the trimming and turning. The overlocked Zigzag edges are the key... a stitch in time saves nine!
Even in the '90s, my grandma use to sew with her old Signer sewing machine with pedal (no electricity). With that type of sewing machine, there was no zig zag stitches available... I think that "straight turn and stitch" and "French seam" were the best way to finish garments other than pinking shears.
I grew up with my mother sewing on a pre-WW2 White Rotary sewing machine. It had a zig-zag attachment that used to freak me out as a little kiddo -- It moved the fabric back and forth while at the same time moving along with the feed dogs. It was ever-so-civilized when finally a machine with a built-in zig-zag stitch came into our lives.
Hello Evelyn! I have a very old sewing machine that has straight stitches and zigzag on it. I'd love to see a tutorial on how to finish a seem using the zigzag stitch. I don't know how to do it, and would love to learn! Thanks for all of your videos. I learn something new every time! ~Janet in Canada
This is the video you are looking for 😃 ruclips.net/video/9ASrIsRpPIo/видео.html
In the ‘70s when my mom was teaching me how to sew, the most hated tedious thing she made me do was over-edge all the raw edges on my projects. Her Singer gold Touch n Sew is the only machine I’ve ever known that can actually do a look alike overlock stitch. Not even my Viking or Pfaff machines can match it. She got a serger in the late ‘80s early’90s and I sort of absconded with it/she gave it to me when I got back into sewing before my daughter was born in ‘93. I had to replace it in 2020. I was so sad to give it up, but I now have a Brother that is very close to it.
My mom used to use so many of these stitches to finish the seams. And I would sit by her side and patiently wait to wear the clothes stitched by her. It was so nice to come across these. My mom doesn't sew much anymore due to old age.
Also, she did like to do the French seam. And well she created the zig zag edges but without the pinking shears, with just plain normal scissors and her zig zags were way bigger.
The field seams will be my new go to!
So I've finished my first ever dress yesterday. Ahm, seam finishes? My dress is like a bad crime movie. Has a lot's of loose ends. The dress looks cool and I would love to wear it regularly. But I think I'll save it as a memory and make a new one.
Thank you for the video!
I’m so thrilled to find your channel! I just watched your video about understitching, and now this one, because I always feel self-conscious about my seams, because I don’t have a serger….
I wouldn’t call myself a beginner sewer. But I am self taught, and still learning. So this has been a great, and valuable find! Thank you for making these videos!
Really appreciate this. I'm a fairly experienced self taught sewer. I work on vintage machine that doesn't have a zigzag stitch and having been trying to find some better ways to finish my seams 💛
I learned to create each of the seam finishes you presented in this video. I have been sewing since I was 6 years of age. I still have my tiny Singer hand-crank machine that is now about 83 years old.
I was fortunate to have many quilters and sewists in my family. I also had sewing as a course while in my USA school curriculum, grades 7 through 12. At University, I took several elective courses in clothing design, clothing construction, pattern making, and vintage couture sewing techniques. I especially love to create bound buttonholes! They are so beautiful, and they add a couture finish to a piece.
My two favorite seam finishes are the French seam and felled seams. The French seam creates a lovely finish, resulting in a garment that is as beautiful on the inside as it is on the outside. Felled seams are beautiful! They also add additional strength and structure a seam. I also use lacy binding to finish seams. It also works as well as a lovely hemline finish.
Seam finishes and bound buttonholes are examples of applying the finishing touch to any garment or sewing project. Thank you for providing a visual excursion of these techniques! You're a wonderful educator!
Dr. Lana
You made me decide on getting a straight seam machine (no ugly zigzag), or simply hand sewing my dresses. Thank you very much for narrowing down the choice!
When I made my first dress, I sewed it entirely with French seams. I divided the 5/8” seam allowance into a 1/4” seam and a 3/8” seam. I made it from a polyester satin and slipped all over the place and the dress ended up way too big because I didn’t know that there is way too much ease drafted into Big 4 commercial patterns and I didn’t know how to mock up a wrap dress.
This happens to almost everyone! 😂 French seams on your first one, well done! 👏
I first learned to make a french seam from a pattern for a pioneer style dress when my daughter was little. It never used the term french seam. When the pattern said put wrong sides together, i thought there must be some mistake but soldiered on and loved the finish. When I showed the dress to her great-grandmother, she complimented me on my beautiful french seams. She was an accomplished sewer and I was very flattered. I've been using french seams ever since, especially for things that might get lots of wear. I have used the zigzag that works like a serger, too. The one I learned as a beginner was the pinked seam; I have never cared for it. This is a great video that i will use when helping begininng sewers; you explain everything so well.
I'm serger-less and about to make my first pair of jeans, so I'm looking for ideas on how to handle that. Thanks so much for sharing these ideas! Now just to practice on scrap fabric and see if a felled seam will work for me. (And, no, I will not hand fell anything. I'm far too lazy.)
Thank you so much. I am a beginner and appreciate the thoughtful explanations.
Oh, Evelyn ! What a spellbinding, instructional video. You are the epitome of class and womanliness ! All of this aside, I should have learned to sew my own dress shirts long ago. My neck size has always been disproportional with my chest. Now that I'm 75 and really filling out, that issue is not so evident. But, now, I am sewing my own special sporran which I use under baggy pants or a kilt. Using duck cloth to provide body and form, this woven fabric frays like crazy. Am going to try some zig zag's.
Thank you so much for your presentation of all these seam finishings.
Just found your channel :-).
It‘s so great - it makes my way more easy to reactivite my sewing skills slept for over 25 years .😊👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I learned how to do French seams in school in 1975. I know I just dated myself there, hahaha. I absolutely love that finish and have used it in almost all the garments I have sewn all these years later. For items that are never going to be washed, I normally use my pinking shears or simply zigzag the edges of the fabric.
Hello Evelyn, thank you very much for showing this options. The felted seam with handstiching will become my favorite in the future. I didn`t knew this stich until yet. It looks amazing! The honkong seam will give me a good solution for my Armholes in heavy coats. It is so clean, and I`m often so annoyed , if I do it with my overlock. Best regards from Germany, Sabine
As a beginner I found this really helpful, thank you! I shall be sewing felled seams in future
I don't sew garments, but this video and the one on understitching could also be helpful on sewing bags. I refuse to have raw edges in anything I make! Makes it look cheap and unprofessional. I'm happy I came across your videos!!
Excellent! I'm glad that you mentioned some techniques I can use hand-sewing. I'm working without a sewing machine in the first place, so buying a serger was entirely out of the question. After my first hand-made shirt unraveled quite rapidly in the wash, I did some sewing hacks to hide the raw edges on my second project--I think the french seam will be my go-to for my next project.
I am very impressed by your videos. I just found them tonight. You're an excellent teacher, very clear. Had to laugh when you couldn't remember what an armhole was, though.
Subscribed. 👍🏽
The singer bias tape attachment worked great. Fully adjustable then just so it down. Great for stress points on elbows for light jackets. My other best friend the walking foot attachment to sew over the tape.
I absolutely loath overlockers! I don’t know what it is, I just can’t get on with them and I’ve ru8ned so many projects trying to get to grips with them so I’ve given up!
I find french seams a bit finicky so only use them on sheer or very lightweight fabrics and I love a tiny rolled hem on sleeves too!
For regular sewing I think I’ll be trying flat felt seams by hand! They look lovely and neat. I have one question though... which way do you fold the seam allowance? Towards the back of the garment?
Also often use false french seams if it’s something that may need adjust. They’re super easy and I not know why more people don’t use them! All you do is sew your seam as normal, then fold the edges of the seam allowance to the middle, then fold the folded seams together and sew a nice neat line a few mm away from the edge! If you match your edges well and use a matching thread, they look just like french seams! (But they don’t have the headache of measuring and cutting!)
Carrie, thanks for mentioning this faux French seam. I’ve never heard of it!! I’m very curious snd I’m gonna go a little research and try it myself!! Thanks again!!
@@n1iwr No problem!! They’re super easy and look great too. I’ve also seen people whip stitch over the top of the two folded edges which gives an even finer look - I think this may be the couture method. Good luck with it!
I have been using the felled seams with a sewing machine but m going to try hand stitching it. Thanks for this video.
Oooooo thank you I will use the hand sewn feld seam - I wondered why some side seams on recycled clothes are so hard to take apart!!! Hand sewing is a good excuse in front of Netflix or RUclips video break 💓
for mid weight woven cottons including flannel and corduroy and some mid weight polyesters I use pinking shears and leave it at that when the results of prewashing and drying indicates the cut edges do not fray significantly. For other fabrics that may unravel I use a variety of finishes, currently french seams are a favorite for light weight fabrics along with serging . Felled seams are fun if the fabric cooperates so I can effectively press the fold prior to sewing it down.
Sometimes with lighter fabrics, I take both the sides of the seam allowances together, push the raw edges inside and close the seam with an invisible stitch or a whip stitch. I don't know if it's an actual thing with a name, but I guess it is because my teacher taught me!
Thank you in a few minutes I learned so much and found all of the information I have been looking for the past hour
I use a 1956, 201K Singer, which my dad bought my mom for her 21st birthday, so no zigzag. I use either pinking shears, over stitch by hand, or bind depending on the fabric and the item being made. I might try the felled seam, it looks nice and neat.
Thank you. I think felled seams are the way forward for me, as my old machine only does straight stitch. Both types look beautiful.
I just got into hand sewing this pandemic and I'm now on my third hand sewn rectangles-and-gores medieval style dress and I've done felled seams on all of them, feels very satisfying to do.
Your videos are so helpful. They're the perfect length and go in depth just enough to get a good idea of each technique. I've been sewing off and on since I was a kid, but have often cut corners and eventually decided I hated sewing because it required so many steps (ironically, I am a knitter). But, I found a set of patterns that I'm just dying to try, and now that I've watched at least a dozen of your videos, I feel ready to commit to the full process! Thank you!
I’ve been working on upping my hand sewing skills for the last couple years and really love felled seams. They are remarkably strong and very comfy against the skin. Very difficult to do on sharply curved areas like an arm hole though. I also don’t like the bulk of bound finishes in a lightweight garment and searching for another option didn’t find anything that suited me. I use a fine thread and sew a blanket stitch around the curved areas. It serves the same purpose as an overlock or zigzag stitch but is less likely to warp the edge or add bulk and can be done by hand in front of the television in the evening. For extra security on some fabrics I will use the same stitch I use for felling and invisibly tack down the seam allowances to reduce the friction from shifting around in the washing machine. So far, this has worked very well for me.
This was a great video. You clearly outlined the type of finishing seams and how/when these finishes should be used. Your sampling were neat and easy to understand. Thank you for providing clear and concise content.
I love this video! Thank you. I made a wool coat years ago with Hong Kong finished seams. My professor loved it. It was a theater costume construction class.
I got lucky and inherited a serger from my mom (I love it's brand name as it's called a Huskylock and I love huskies 😀), so in my sewing I use serged seams a lot. Since I've been watching Bernadette Banner I've also started doing more handsewing, so I'm using felled seams as well, like on a skirt I refashioned with a lace trim and cotton backing to make it longer. The new seams I would like to incorporate are definitely the French seam or felled seam that is stitched down with a double line and the bound seam, as I am going to need the first one for office wear I want to make out of mens shirts 😀. And the second one I want to use on the armholes of some dresses/vest/shirts etc. Exciting new steps to take and things to learn!