I am 73 and I've been sewing since my first Home-Ec class in 1963 when I was taught to use a treadle and McCall or Simplicity patterns! We were taught to make a muslin garment first and correct the issues before cutting our fashion fabric. How much better to correct on paper prior to cutting - and such a great, helpful tip to use the "bone measurement" rather than the "bust measurement". I am planning to purchase your books asap! THANK YOU for making these free tutorials!
Thank you! All of a sudden, after 40 years of writing and testing, everyone is interested! Racing to keep up. Thanks for the compliments! It's you, and people like you for whom I write.
I’m a Family and Consumer Sciences teacher and I teach kids from 8-18 to sew!! I make sure they understand how the machine works and can keep it running!! My club sponsors an after school program we call the sewing club and we sew Tuesdays and Thursdays from 3:30-5:00. Boys and Girls love sewing and we do it for free!
I can sew anything but clothes following a store bought pattern. I was a seamstress for a design firm and made items for the home. I quilt some, no expert. But heavens, I about fainted when I saw the price of patterns about a month ago. I just wanted a simple skirt pattern. By the time I bought it and some good material and my time, I might could have bought a fairly nice clothing item. So i went to RUclips and found a way to do it without a pattern. I made 3 for the fall and winter. Fits me perfect. I just found your channel so I have a lot of videos to watch. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
You're welcome. You deserve to have this information. There are many good reasons why this information hasn't been available. It really isn't anyone's fault. I've been fortunate to have the good luck to be able to write my books and then have a son who is very interested in making videos and working with me. I also have a very supportive husband. I can't believe I've been so fortunate.
I have sewn on and off for about 30 years. I don’t enjoy garment sewing because I don’t know what I am doing! And then there’s the fit! Drives me crazy. I quilt instead because I have learned the techniques and practiced through the process over and over. After watching this video I feel encouraged to try again. I do love fashion and am going on a sustainable fashion tour with Catherine of Catherine Sews this upcoming spring!!
😂 love your direct way of talking to us. I'm 82, left school 14 went to the sewing industry. Retired only last year teaching a small group of people men and women. Tell young ones the skills I learned in industry. They don't learn this in home tech at school. Thank you.
Thanks! Your comment sounds good to me! I would have said the same if I could have had this information when I was young. I want YOU and others like you to have it. Thanks again!
Hi. Interesting video ! But there are some points you make that I don’t fully agree. You chose the most expensive pattern company as an example. Almost all other pattern companies are far cheaper than Vogue.😅 So paying 30$ for a patterns is definitely not the norm. For me it’s usually between 3-15€ for single patterns and about 8-10€ for magazines with several patterns. I think the most I ever paid was 18€ for a single pattern from an independent French company. But it was worth it. I made a beautiful red trench coat from that patterns which I still love. I started sewing around 2014 and made my first garment (a skirt ) about a year later. Of course I had a few fails over the years but have made a lot of great fitting garments , too. But through the fails I learned a lot and I appreciate that. I don’t think it’s fair and realistic to compare an industrial setting with a home sewers setting. For example I wouldn’t have enough space at home to spread the fabric so cutting on the fold is more convenient. My dining table is my sewing space. And it’s not that big. This might be different in the US where everything is bigger 😜 but here in Germany apartments and houses are smaller I think. For me part of the hobby of sewing is also the fun of buying different patterns and sharing them with sewing friends. For some people it might be fun to draft their own patterns from a sloper. But for me that’s just not the case right now. I also appreciate having more than one size in a pattern. I never fit only one size. My bottom half has always been a little bigger than the top. I often grade between sizes which is not a big deal at all. I also almost always have to lengthen the sleeves and sometimes the bodice. But these are very easy adjustments. Granted it would be different if I had to adjust for a different size bust or a broader back. Then I believe it could be useful to draft your own pattern. With the different sizes I can also easily share the patterns with friends or make it in another size years later. Regarding seam allowance, it differs from company to company. As a German I sometimes use Burda patterns from the Burda Magazine or the online shop. They don’t have seam allowances included and I add them myself. There are also different European patterns makers that have smaller seam allowances. But you are right. 1,5 cm is used most often. Sorry for the lengthy comment. Hope you are not offended. I will definitely watch more of your videos because I am eager to learn from you.
Ongoing self taught sewist here, and my mind is having continuous seismic events while watching this… I have struggles with pattern sewing since I began sewing and therefore have not used patterns much thinking I was “stupid” because I couldn’t grasp it. It’s such a relief to know my hunch was not wrong! AND… not cutting on the fold-of course! Makes so much sense! You have yourself a new avid follower! 🎉
I felt exactly the same as you. I had no option but to go to a thrift store and looked for a dress that fitted nicely on the bodice and ripped it apart and copied it. Later, I learned how to daft patterns myself.
i have trouble with cutting on the fold as well, the sides always end up having different dimensions. i thought i was the problem, made me hate the cutting process because of how slow i'm getting to try to get it right every time :)
@@MRSDAVID1 It's NOT your fault! Unfortunately too many of us assume that it's all our fault when our sewing goes wrong. The problem is: good information just isn't out there.
Thank you for breaking the myth that the pattern is 'gospel'. Alll these years of frustration and failure, and it most likely was a junk pattern making the mess. I am encouraged to try again!
I have just found your channel, and boy am I glad I have! I am middle-aged and started to sew last year; I have learned a fair amount, but this is information is on another level. Thank you so much for taking the time to share your knowledge with us all.
I wish i had seen and heard you years ago. I have sewn all my life and struggled. My first dress was a green gingham - which i unpicked many times while stitching …. I was struggling with the zip when my Aunt popped in to visit - she had her own Dress Shop - she saw what i was doing - well she floored me as I remember she just put the zip on the fabric and stitched no problem - perfect job. Thus was all of 62 years ago. Thank you for your video 🌻 I’m watching from South Africa
Thank you so much! Hello to South Africa from Philadelphia! I live in Oreland, a little big town just northwest of Philadelphia, but I think of Philadelphia as home.
Just found your channel--don't know where it came from but it is what I've wanted FOREVER!! THANK YOU!! Where is the best place to start and go through your videos in a systematic order? Thank you, dear lady!
You can start anywhere. The books were written so that most of their courses could be taken in any order. My students were career personnel who already had hectic schedules. Setting up the courses so they had to be taken in a certain order would have been difficult for the students the program attracted. The videos, so far, contain basic information. Watch them in any order because there is no precise order to them anyway.
I was so lucky to be asked to teach in college. My program attracted professional men and women, some from the industry. Working first with degree students, then with professionals helped me develop my teaching method. I owe so much to my students. My videos are the result of my interactions with those students. They are the ones to thank.
It's pretty awesome to learn so many things in just 28 minutes. Lol. As someone new to sewing, I have seen the patterns as infallible and I always assumed that any problem that arose was my inexperience. I have wasted SO much fabric trying to cut per pattern fold over instructions. Also, parchment paper from the grocery store works as well. 😊
The benefit of tracing paper is that you can draft on one side, then turn it over and correct the previous drafting. Then turn it back over and erase the original drafting. I do it all the time. Think I never make mistakes? PLEASE............. And just in case you are wondering, I have my books open when I sew and I turn the pages as I work through the project(s). I don't remember all this stuff. In fact, when I am using my books it is hard for me to realize that I actually wrote the stuff. It always seems as if someone else wrote an diagrammed it.
I find that older patterns have better “tailoring”, if I can call it that. The sewing details are typically better, especially finishing techniques. So I pick up vintage patterns whenever I can. I was required to take Home arc in high school, in the late 1960’s. I followed that by taking sewing in 4H, which was taught by a professional seamstress. I still make a lot of my clothes, mainly because I hate fast fashion. You are correct in everything you said. Count me as a new subscriber.
@ I consider vintage patterns to be anything older than 1970. The period before 1965 was especially rich in quality patterns. Great sewing details as compared to after pattern companies made things simpler to attract new sewers. You give up so much quality when you do that and the result is that newer sewers don’t learn the difference. Now, it is true that what I tend to call “indie” pattern companies (mistakenly, no doubt) do have a different quality level than the big 4 or 5. But I would rather buy a pattern for a single size, with quality garment details, than have the ability to have multiple sizes in one envelope and get confused in cutting it out or not having room on the paper for details. A golden age in patterns for me is around 1960. For example, vests/waistcoat patterns had real welt pockets. Not fake pockets. And shirts often had gussets to relieve seam stress. And, women’s’ clothes that had pockets had real pockets that were useful. Long seams like on shirt sides were generally flat-felled, not single stitch and either pinked or zig-zagged. In decades past, most people had less clothes but they were often better quality. Because better quality lasted longer. I do have some lovely 1930’s and 40’s patterns, but you have to really be into retro to wear them. You can find those in antique or vintage shops.
As a self-taught sewist, I have sewn up a lot items over the years and unafraid to tackle any sewing project--well, except perhaps shoes. No one has ever said "did I make that?" to me unless they knew I sewed. Usually it was as you noted, 'where did I buy that?' Some years back, a friend and I made slopers that fit our bodies. I referred to that time and again. Now that I'm retired, I'm getting back into sewing my clothes but my sloper is missing (or misplaced; I wouldn't toss it) although it's made for my much younger and slimmer self. I'm glad to know that there are books out there so I can remake one. I learned a lot from this video and appreciate your forthrightness on many issues. Glad to see I'm not the only one that makes notes all over the pattern. I totally agree with you that patterns are far too expensive so I wait for them to be on sale--big sale. I will be checking out your other videos. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
@@laurelhoffmann1594 Thank you for the compliment. My talents are due to years of experience and my share of flops.The great thing about flops is the learning what went wrong and do better the next time.
@@sandyp2485 I always say to my students, "Make a mistake, join the human race. You don't learn anything if you don't make mistakes. Please share your mistakes with the class so we can all learn." I asked my students to tell me what they needed to learn, and to tell me when they didn't understand in my books. In the beginning I didn't like it, but I hid my feelings because I needed to know. And then I began to like it! Now criticism doesn't bother me, because listening to others gives me not only the benefit of my own mind, but that of others as well.
Wow! Just found your channel. This is great. Your information is direct, straightforward and informative. I am a returning to sewing after many years. I remember buying patterns for as low as $1.25 and fabric for $1.99/yard. It’s crazy out there now. Love watching your channel. Thank you for your directness. Bravo 👏🏼
Consider taking patterns off ready-made garments. No need to remove even a stitch. Done all the time in industry. The best patterns are industrial patterns.
This is what I’ve been looking for!!! As someone with an engineering background I got into sewing because poorly fitting garments are so obvious and annoying to me. I actually learnt from historical dress recreators so I often have no idea what the modern solutions are and land up hand sewing probably a lot more than I need to (but I like embroidery so it’s not bad). But to learn from someone with the actual technical instructions I’m looking for is exactly what I’ve been trying to find
My mom was taught in Europe to operate an atelier. She came to North America and worked in a high end Toronto exclusive shop to alter to fit. The other worker had no idea. Then when she was pregnant she was dismissed as per Simpson’s policy. At home she was brought Vogue patterns and expensive foreign materials and was able to cut them properly to make additional pieces for ensembles and said Vogue instructions were the worst. Being an expert she couldn’t explain to teach me (“It’s obvious!”). But watching her showed how intuitively she handled the fabric to cut and fit for every unique figure in a more complementary design than the tissue showed. Fittings were amazing. Mom’s old now and I made her a dressing gown set for Harry’s Royal Wedding. She loved my gift.
It sounds as though your mother was very talented. Tell me, did you have a wardrobe to die for? I always saw my children as dolls to dress. They had their brother/sister train outfits, zoo outfits, etc. When Halloween came they had their choice of costumes. But they never could understand why their teachers guessed them first when they went to school in their costumes on Halloween. ;-))
THANK YOU! I thought the pattern problems were mostly my fault. It got to the place that I just decided to take up quilting because quilts didn't have to fit me properly~ LOL! I learned sewing from 4-H, home-ec, Stretch-and-Sew, briefly working as a stage costume sewist, from books, from Sewing With Nancy, and so on. There are basic skills you share here that I have NEVER heard of before! I need to try these. I have previously hated sewing invisible zippers. I have had much trouble cutting on the folded fabric. I plan to save and purchase your books. I am new subscriber now!
@@creatinghanley You're not alone. I think that is the underlying reason so many women are into quilting. Here may be a surprise: The procedures used in quilting are the same procedures used in the industry. I strongly suspect that the industrial procedures, developed here in the USA during the two World Wars, now used globally, were developed from the quilting procedures. I always love when a quilter wants to take lessons with me because I know they already have the essential skills in place - cutting and sewing on gauge.
In the 90s I attended a Sandra Bettina sewing workshop and learned the single most valuable thing that made my sewing look store-bought: bias-cut sewing! The pattern companies sewed samples that way, but left cutting instructions that would save money, but would look homemade, and you would wonder why your sewing efforts looked homemade!!!!
My experience with editors is that too many of them have never worked in industry. Home sewing procedures went out of date 100 years ago. During the First and Second World Wars the USA apparel industry sent orders out to small USA manufacturing concerns who were making other products using low-level engineering procedures. They developed the apparel manufacturing methods now used globally, even in the Paris houses. But because of line-assembly, few, even in the apparel industry understand how the whole system works. No one is trying to keep this a secret. It's just the way it is. I had wonderful mentors when I worked in industry. I believe this information should be available to everyone who wants to learn it.
NO, NO, NO! I could NEVER have been your home ec teacher. :-)) Home ec is over 100 years out of date. This is industrial couture! How the professionals do it for preferred customers. Much of the work I did in industry was shown only to customers who could easily afford clothing that cost in the thousands of dollars. Want to make clothes you could NEVER afford to buy? Watch my videos.
I absolutely love your straightforward no nonsense delivery! I worked in a garment factory in my 20's topsitching straps and flaps for the military. Industrial sewing is so efficient because time is money and even in our homes our time is still valuable at 50 lol. I swear they instruct now to make it even more confusing, it's like they over explain.🤷♀️ Love your channel and I am going to look into your books too!
The problem is that even in the industry most don't have these skills. I was fortunate to have wonderful mentors when I was in the industry. I was just in the right places at the right times.
Thanks for sharing. Lessons learned..don’t cut on fold, reduce seam sizes. . I will look for yellow tracing paper. This summer I finally made a t shirt sloper that actually fits. I will watch your other videos to improve my skills. I do like multi sized patterns. Pear shape bodies are not all one size…. And many patterns include tops and bottoms. And I only buy patterns at Joann sales. I would love to have a top sloper, and a pants one and a skirt one. For me a great compliment I received this summer was.. your dress is gorgeous..where did you buy it. I don’t save money with home sewing..but it is a better fit and better fabric, and it is rewarding. I subscribed.
I make my clothes - ALL of them that you see on my videos. I can't afford to buy what I can make. :-)) I buy clothes for when I'm at home so as to save the clothes I make for when I go out.
Thank you so very much for sharing your knowledge and insight. This is priceless. I have been struggling to even find patterns that I can adjust small enough for a 23 inch waist and 32 inch inseam for my daughter’s work clothing. She also has broad shoulders to accommodate.
Of all the sewing procedures, I've always found that the fit is the most difficult of the sewing procedures for most people who sew. When my continuing professional students at Jefferson University asked me to show them how to fit home sewing patterns, I thought it would be a breeze. Every thing always fit me. (I was a fit model in the industry - along with everything else.) But was I in for a shock! I quickly found out that just about everyone is wearing clothes that don't fit. AND, the patterns can't always be depended on for accurate grading! So.... I started writing and testing with my students, who, fortunately gave me unbelievable feed-back. It's they you should thank, for telling me what they needed to know, and for explaining what they understood or didn't understand as I tested my writing with them.
I have been sewing since I was a 5th grader. I am 76 years old. Patterns and fabrics have gotten so expensive that I don't make many of my own clothes anymore. However, I do hang on to my old patterns.There isn't any reason for me to buy new commercial patterns at the full price. The old patterns are easier to use; and, fashion repeats itself.
Check your local extension office - every county in the USA has one. They may have fabric sales where they sell donated fabrics. If so, the buys are fantastic!
@@laurelhoffmann1594 I'm sorry; but, our Extension Service has sent out requests for us to donate fabric for making baby quilts. I live in Eastern Kentucky.
Yes, yes, yes! Laurel. I studied at a trade school and learned production sewing and pattern drafting. Thats when i finally enjoyed sewing. I dont know why colleges continue to use commercial patterns when teaching sewing. I say no more commercial patterns in fashion design programs. Its so wrong.
Knowing that all the pattern are for some standard measurements, I always just compare my measurements, and pick size. After that I lengthen the whole thing and the sleeves, and tighten the chest area, because I’m very thin in the chest. But the chest measurement isn’t always listed on a size charts (other patterns than vogue). By now this system has worked for me perfectly every time
Sounds like you've got it figured out. I learned in my classes that not many have. The chest size is 2 inches smaller than the bust size listed on the back of the pattern packet.
Thank you for this particular video. I once had a seamstress and had beautiful fitting clothing, and I am trying my best to learn to make my own patterns and sew my own clothing correctly. You are right, the professionals who sew clothing in factories will probably never share their techniques. This is so sad for home sewers, who may not have had home economics at their schools and are dependent on the terrible pattern companies. I used two commercial patterns this year: one had issues I could correct and the other was a simple robe with the tie on the left side. It was an utter disaster; the important seams were mismatched (the collar/band) and not only did not line up with the shoulder seams, but were too short to end at the proper placement on the center front. No more commercial patterns for me. I will be buying your books and will watch the rest of your videos. You are a gem and really deserve kudos for doing what is right. Thank you so much for sharing you knowledge with us.
I was really happy to find some 40 year old videos by Margaret Islander by trying to find a video on how to sew without pins because they don't use pins in industrial sewing- too time consuming
It's not that the professionals don't want to share their information, it's that they are working full time, may not have writing or teaching skills, or if they do, may not have any way to test if their writing works. I have been extremely lucky - first with the mentors I had in industry - three European master tailors, the top layout artist at Alfred Angelos, the top grader in the Philadelphia area. Then, because the industry was moving off shore, being hired, in spite of being a woman, to run a factory. Years later, after having high success with my daughter's 4-H club, I was asked to teach in college. After five years teaching degree fashion students, I was asked to teach continuing education students, which later included design-room professionals. Just incredible luck!
@@SyKnife Thanks! It was all accidental. I never had any desire to work in the fashion industry. I started out with a major in journalism. It was my mother's idea that I switch to fashion . I think she wanted me to make clothes for her. Then the college dropped the program. I sewed for others before leaving home to make some money, then moved to the city in hopes of doing better. I was good at it, but the only reason I went into the industry was because I couldn't make any money doing custom sewing.
@@CeresIsABetterPlanetThanPluto Margaret Islander was the first to go into industry to learn how industry sews. She was an outstanding pioneer. Well, they don't use pins on the line, as she said. However, when I worked in the couture department at Alfred Angelos' where I was an assistant designer, we did a lot of pinning to hold the lace applique in place before it was machine sewn to the wedding gowns, which sold for over $10,000 back in the late 1960s. However, when I sew I don't pin straight seams as I sew notch-to-notch, as done in industry. But tricky spots sometimes need to be pinned. I know sample making, but I'm not a sample maker, so I'm not the speed ball they are.
Hi Laurel, I just found your channel and boy am I relieved! I now KNOW I am not crazy. I felt like either my body was wonky or I just kept choosing pattern after pattern that was intentionally NOT made to fit me and ended up in the trash. LOL This video was so informative and helpful. Thank you so much for making it. I do have one suggestion, however. If you make any more videos like the one teaching about fixing the sleeve cap, it would be TREMEDOUSLY helpful if you could make the bottom pattern tracing lines much darker so we can see and understand what you are doing. I was lost a few times during that one and re-watched it several times to understand what you were showing and teaching us. Thank you so much for sharing your wealth of knowledge with us all.
Thanks! and thanks for the critique! It's very important to learn how the videos are seen. I can't thank my continuing education students enough for all the critiques they gave me when I was teaching at first Jefferson and then Drexel University. If one listens to others' comments one reaps such benefits.
I graduated from an apparel manufacturing and design program 20 years ago, but didn’t sew in the interim. Now I’m trying to sew for myself using home sewing patterns. You are such a gem to find as I try to remember what I learned about industrial sewing. I was never a home sewer. (I worked for a men’s accessories company) ❤
You were lucky to be taught manufacturing techniques. As I understand it, most programs aren't teaching industrial sewing, at least that is how I found it when I taught in college. It is fairly common for industry's designing departments to hire off the street because the fashion graduates have so much to unlearn and such unrealistic expectations. I always found the easiest students to teach were those who had no previous sewing instruction.
Thanks! Others need this information that I wish I had when I was trying to sew. When I was a teen I would buy a pattern and some fabric in the five and ten. I was so excited. I was convinced I would have something really pretty to wear when I would finish. But in the end I had spent my money and my time only to be so disappointed.
My mom sewed for me in the 50's-60's. I took Home Ec in the early 70's and made clothes for myself. I went by the measurements on the pattern envelope (mostly Simplicity or McCalls) and never used a muslin. Only had to use the "shorten" line for pants and skirts. About 5 years ago I decided to make myself a couple of simple, cotton tops. Total disaster- they were huge on me. I gave up. Patterns today are way too expensive and sized wrong. The only thing I try now are pj pants and through trial and error, figured out how to size down! In the meantime Ive been quilting. Now here's a hobby where measurements produce reliable results! Thank you for your videos!
Very happy to have just found you ! I’ve sewn garments before ( since teenager) but always, a bit disappointed with fit etc. I went into quilting and enjoy it much. But now I feel like I can watch some of your video’s and possible be more successful with garments. Fingers crossed 🤞You’ve inspired me!
I just came across your channel Laurel and as a home sewist your insights are extremely useful. Thanks for taking the time to pass on this information.
Wow, I am so glad that I found your channel. You are so full of information. I’m following my heart and starting on my sewing journey. i’m sure I am going to learn a lot from your videos. Thank you for sharing your information and knowledge and expertise.
Thanks so much! I have to give credit to my son, Andrew. He has studied many video education programs and worked hard to present excellent videos. Without him, these videos would not be possible. It's such a pleasure to work with him.
Thanks so much laurel, I appreciate what your teaching us . Anything that makes the finished product not only better but quite to make , Is just fabulous
The industry has a "f" word. It's fold, and you now know why. What a shame. I blame it on the stupid instructions in the home-sewing patterns and many sewing courses.
I love your no bs approach. As a slim petite with an H bust, no pattern fits me. Even the pictures in the burda pattern books show garnments that look horrible. And they are expensive
You can have clothes that fit. I couldn't believe the fit problems that came up in my classes. It was an education. But from what you have said, I suspect you have a model's figure and would good in just about anything, if it were designed to fit you.
I used a commercial pattern for a shift in high school home ec in the 1960's then I copied the basics of that to design my prom gown in 1971. I used a Simplicity pattern once around that time. The dress didn't last because it was all one piece including the sleeves which soon tore at the under arms. I don't think I have used a commercial pattern since except some Barbie doll clothes. I draft from books or my own ideas. I mostly make circle skirts.
As always you bring really great information to the home seamstress. Your insight on patterns is spot on. They are expensive and lack good basic sewing skills. Thanks for the video. You are very inspirational and motivating. I love that top you are wearing.
I rarely buy patterns anymore & generally do it when I see something I like for sale & am feeling lazy. I love multi-size patterns cause it makes it much easier to fit to me. I took Home Ec for 6 years & went on to become a professional costumer - I currently make stuffed animals & doll clothing ( plus stuff for myself). I can draft my own patterns & do tailoring. I also never use pattern layouts but omg I cut on the fold a lot because it’s less time consuming & no, I make sure it is on the grain lol. Now, if I’m using a really expensive or delicate type of material I compensate. I do this thing called FIT while I sew!!!! I will most certainly continue to clip seams lol. I’m a tailor & making a narrower seam does not change the need to clip. I’m not particularly impressed with the quality of garments I find in stores, even high end stores, btw, so saying this is ‘industry standard’ leaves me cold. Making muslins & slopes is de rigeur, of course.
Good point! It's true, most people are not the same size all over their body. I was stunned by this when my continuing professional students asked me to teach them how to fit home-sewing patterns. I was a fit model in the industry. Everything in the stores in my size, even today years later fits me. I had no idea, until I had that class, how many problems people have with getting clothes to fit. In fact, I discovered in that class that most people are wearing clothing that don't fit. However, multi-sized patterns can be confusing for some people. It's my opinion that it would be better if just one size were in a pattern packet. But I have no problem with your disagreement. I always listened to all voices in my classes. As a result I wrote books that are very different than they would have been if I hadn't listened to my students. I asked them what they wanted to learn, what problems they had, and to please tell me what they didn't understand in my books. If one knows how one differs from their best pattern size, then, if the pattern was graded correctly, one needs to make the same changes in every pattern (that was graded correctly using the same grade rule), to their best pattern size. The big problem with women is that the pattern directions say to choose one's size by the bust measurement, causing at least one-third of all women who sew to choose the wrong size. This proved to be the case again and again in my continuing professional education classes at first Jefferson and then Drexel Universities. The solution to all these fit problems that turned up in my classes was to write "Grading to FIt," which shows how to first develop a personal sloper that fits, then determine the grading coordinates that enable grading one's pattern size to a custom fit. Not an easy book to use and understand, but proven in my classes to work exceptionally well. Again, thanks for your comment, and also for reading this very long reply. Hope to hear again from you. Eager to read your comments.
@@laurelhoffmann1594last time I was in Kohl's trying on some clothes - this was back in spring - nothing had fit me right at all. First I tried the women's department but nothing fit. Than in desperation (and curiosity) I tried the kids department... In the past (around 2014) a 10-12 used to fit me with Tshirt. Well that was now too big. So I tried a size 8 (from the kids department mind you) and it sort of fit but the bottom of the tshirt was ballooning out around my waist! It was just horrid!! The shoes from them are all too big and don't fit my feet either. Tried on sandals from the kids department and my foot was too shallow for the straps to hold my feet in place properly. I think its this obesity epidemic - they are changing the size of clothes to make everything bigger but then when you are an adult woman who is XS nothing fits. But this is what happens when you have celiac plus a corn allergy and end up on a meat based diet because that is what you can eat. And I do a lot of walking + hiking + yoga + I go see my horses every Thursday morning. 🐎 lately I try to alter stuff a bit so it fits. Haven't bought any pattern yet. Not that far yet. 😂 I have successfully sewed a pair of pants off a pair of my leggings though. But nothing in the store fits.
Hi Laurel are you the same instructor that taught factory methods at Philadelphia Textiles in Philadelphia PA? I wanted to take your certificate courses but children were young. I also fostered many children. But now I’m 61 and finally learning to sew. So glad I found you again.
Have sewn for 45 years. I shop resale for patterns and purchased many when you could get them for $1.99 on sale. I've sewn kids clothes, costumes, formal wear, upholstery, etc. I worked at an alteration shop also. I still can't fit anything on myself. Now I'm middle aged and fat so it's even worse. But I keep trying because I guess I'm a sadist.
You are hardly alone. I do fit myself, but I'm an easy fit, as I'm pretty much standard size. I've fit over 500 students. For some reason it's easy for me, but that's not usually the case, as I have found out with my students.
Thank you so so much. ❤️ I bought several patterns which never fit and need changing the pattern. Foreign patterns are also not to fit and very $10-15 with 6-8sizes.
Oh dear! These days I don't even bother with home-sewing patterns. I go to the store, find something I like and that fits, bring it home and copy the pattern off it. Don't remove any labels, not even a stitch. Copy the garment, often with a very different fabric and color, then take the item back to the store and have it taken off my charge. Done all the time in industry, only they make thousands - I only make one. There are no copy-right laws on apparel.
Buying a pattern by your upper bust measurement is more accurate if you’re making anything that is worn from the shoulders. Th upper bust reflects the shoulder more accurately than the chest size. I have a small ribcage but wide shoulders. Nothing would fit well if I went by my chest. A skirt or pants is chosen but hip size. A waist ca be altered easier than hips.
Thank you for sharing this with us! I need to find the books, and am trying to improve my new skills ( just started sewing in September). How do we make a sloper?
The answer is in my book, "Grading to Fit." laurelhoffmann.com/product/grading-to-fit/ The book's download includes Standard-Size Slopers, sizes 2 through 30. The book tells you how to determine your correct size by your chest measurement, measured under your bust (NOT your bust size). Then how to develop a personal sloper that fits you. Finally, how to determine your grading coordinates, which will allow you to grade home-sewing patterns to your custom fit. The book's sequel shows how to use this information to grade a blouse pattern. Its sequel shows how to then grade a jacket pattern to your custom fit. Nothing about this procedure is easy, but it has been classroom tested and proven to work. If you email me I can send you Rita's successes in the course. She didn't want me to put her pictures up on line, so I honor her request, but I know she wouldn't mind my emailing her pictures to you. Laurel@CFashionEdu.com
I found out a decade ago that I do not get a fit I want with commercial patterns, especially for body-hugging fit from woven fabrics. I thought myself to custom draft to my measurements and design almost everything from a basic sloper. Took long time but I got it. If I use commercial patterns - only with a lots of ease like flowy tunics or simple tops with a lots of ease. Sometimes I try cute patterns like vintage blouse and find myself completely re-drafting almost the whole thing because everything is wrong - bust dart depth, bust apex is wrong, waist darts are too tight etc… too much effort.
Hi Laurel, you just came across my feed and I'm intrigued. I'm from Philadelphia and you mentioned a Philly website that I didn't know existed. You're in Philadelphia ? This video is a gem as I haven't sewed in years and these patterns are troublesome. Hope to see more tutorial videos from you. Will definitely check out your website. Where can I find your books? Thanks so much. Kathleen.
Regarding pricing - I think commercial patterns have unfortunately gone the same route store like Kohl's have where the list price is overinflated to such a ridiculous degree so that when there is a "sale" you feel like you are getting such a bargain even though you are just paying what should be the regular price. So many stores in the US do this because it works. I hate it :( And speaking of Kohl's....don't even get me started on the quality of clothing in that store. It's horrible!
I just came across your channel and subscribed. I appreciate the insights you provide here and will be reviewing this video again and delve into the others! Where can I purchase your book Sewing Techniques From The Fashion Industry?
Thank you! All of my books are available from my website: laurelhoffmann.com/ Scroll down on the fist page and you will see all of the books. Hit any of the books and it will take you to that's book page. Scroll down on any of the books' pages and you will see all of the other books. There is also a lot of information on my blog. It's indexed at laurelhoffmann.com/index-cfe-blog/ I need to index the latest posts, but they are obvious as soon as you hit the "blog" link on my website.
Thank you for the review. But! If one is sewing couture the seam allowances are larger - 1 inch usually as I recall. Would not couture sewing be an exception. I can remember (dating myself I know) when $5 was a lot for a pattern - usually Vogue.
I remember $5 Vogue patterns too, and it was a lot of money then. No harm in adding a one-inch seam allowance to couture garments. High-end garments have wide seam allowances.
Crazy. I made size small elastic waist simplicity pants and they came into like a big medium. A t shirt pattern had such tight arms! I'm 112 pounds, how can it be tight? Love your video
"Don't cut on the fold!" I just learned this the hard way with a recent project. The side that was on the bottom was massively off grain, and the pattern made it really obvious. :/
So sorry. Anyone who cuts on the fold risks disaster, as you unfortunately found out. I take a long time laying out patterns and cutting. I layout on a grid, mark the fabric's side I've chosen to be the face, check the fabric's grain lines with my L-squares, cut all one direction, often safety pin or pin a seam allowance on the wrong side of the fabric, roll each piece in its pattern before I take it to the machine, as I did in the industry. Only there the sample maker sewed the garment together. Now I have it all to do myself. A lot of work, but worth the effort when I have finally finished the garment.
Fit is the big problem with sewing. There are no straight lines on the body. Everyone is different. So different I couldn't believe it when I taught in continuing education. I had no idea so many people had problems with fit until I taught in college.
I use a pintuck foot to install an invisible zipper, and I use steam a seam prior to sewing the zipper. Look up Kenneth King's method for invisible zippers
THANK YOU for your lovely videos. I am ordering one of your books, but am having trouble on your website. When I try to enter my address information the page flips to the top of the order form. Thank you, I will try again! It happens when I hit the space key.
I can’t stand modern patterns. They are awful. When I use a pattern I always use vintage preferably 1960s or older. Otherwise I pattern draft my own patterns. Knowing your measurements is KEY! Great advice!
I gotta say -- really glad for a lot of this information, but I would be very sad if the world went back to one size per pattern packet. Maybe this is damage from a lifetime of buying clothes off the rack that don't fit, or having size numbers be essentially arbitrary between clothing brands... but I appreciate patterns that offer a size range so that you can adjust more closely to your actual body size before having to go off-script, as it were. For example, if I'm making a dress, and the pattern I buy only has one size, and I'm measuring from my chest to determine my size, I can guarantee you that that dress will not correctly fit my hips. It will be too small, because I'm spoon- or pear-shaped. A dress pattern that comes with a range of sizes might allow me to pick the smallest size for the bodice and the largest size for the skirt, and then I have a lot less fussing around to do to make it fit than if the pattern only included one size. Basically, relying on a single "size" for a garment is nonsense, whether you're talking home sewing patterns or mass-produced garments, because people are not shaped the same. The size of my chest tells you nothing about the size of my hips and I appreciate having a little more built-in flexibility in home sewing patterns to accommodate that. Edit to add: You can absolutely teach yourself to sew on youtube, that's what I've been doing for the past two years or so 😅
I need sewing patterns that have multiple sizes because I am pear shaped. From my shoulders down to my hips my body spreads over 4 sizes. The sewing methods in home sewing patterns can take longer than industrial methods - which is stupid. I sew in sleeves by the industrial methods 😊😁
I don't understand the appeal of individual patterns in packets. They cost absolute fortune and only save very little time compared to good quality sewing patterns magazines like Burda Style. Here in the UK every month we get a new issue in English (from Germany), it costs £8.99 and contains 20-30 patterns of very fashion forward pieces, each in 6 sizes. The only "complication" is that you have to trace the pattern you need on tissue paper and cut it out. Also, the Burda patterns do not include seam allowances, which is PERFECT for making any changes to the pattern, and for allowing for seams as any particular fabric and pattern piece requires. I have used Burda since 1986, and the patterns are extremely high (German!) quality. I trust these tried and tested patterns, which are still incredibly affordable compared to random pattern makers that pop up like mushrooms everywhere and who charge for a pattern more than a fabric might cost. This just does not make any sense. I love your industry methods by the way.
$5.99 is Vogue's ordinary sale price that shows up in ads regularly. Their price every other day is 30% off, both at my local store and online.I hope sewists weren't scared off by hearing $35.
So why do they print such high prices on their patterns? I do love Vogue, but these days I take patterns off ready-made clothing. There are no copy-rights on clothes, plus the industry does it all the time - and make 1000s, I just make one.
Are big 5 patterns ever not on sale over there though? In the U.K. there’s never sales where Vogue patterns are so cheap and being a print at home person I’m stuffed because Vogue just aren’t there yet.
Oh boy! Have you tried taking patterns off ready-made garments? Lay tracing paper over each section that was obviously cut from a pattern. Then check that the seam lines sew. Add seam allowances. Cut in muslin to check the fit. You may find this easier than it sounds.
Hey, so I went to try to go to your website and I got an error. Then I looked up your books on Amazon, and it says they aren’t available. I am ready to devour all of the knowledge you are offering, but how lol 😅 (other than watching your videos and taking notes ofc)
Cup size nomenclature is related to bust circumference. The same cup size in the next largest bra or pattern size is given the previous latter. for example: The size C cup in a 34 bra is a size B cup in a 36 bra. The size B cup in a 36 bra is a size A cup in a 38 bra. The C cup in size 36 is the same size as a D cup in size 34.
there is a lady who shows on youtube how to cut your own patterns from a base sloper pattern that you create from your measurement. Her station is called the closet historian and here is her video on how to make a basic shaper block for a bodice: ruclips.net/video/ZYJXKh1_dSI/видео.html It is cheeper if you make your own pattern and will be happier with the results in the end then paying about $50.00 for a pattern that you aren't happy with in the end and don't know how to modify to fit you better.
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I am 73 and I've been sewing since my first Home-Ec class in 1963 when I was taught to use a treadle and McCall or Simplicity patterns! We were taught to make a muslin garment first and correct the issues before cutting our fashion fabric. How much better to correct on paper prior to cutting - and such a great, helpful tip to use the "bone measurement" rather than the "bust measurement". I am planning to purchase your books asap! THANK YOU for making these free tutorials!
Thank you! All of a sudden, after 40 years of writing and testing, everyone is interested! Racing to keep up. Thanks for the compliments! It's you, and people like you for whom I write.
I’m a Family and Consumer Sciences teacher and I teach kids from 8-18 to sew!! I make sure they understand how the machine works and can keep it running!! My club sponsors an after school program we call the sewing club and we sew Tuesdays and Thursdays from 3:30-5:00. Boys and Girls love sewing and we do it for free!
Good for you!
I can sew anything but clothes following a store bought pattern. I was a seamstress for a design firm and made items for the home. I quilt some, no expert. But heavens, I about fainted when I saw the price of patterns about a month ago. I just wanted a simple skirt pattern. By the time I bought it and some good material and my time, I might could have bought a fairly nice clothing item. So i went to RUclips and found a way to do it without a pattern. I made 3 for the fall and winter. Fits me perfect. I just found your channel so I have a lot of videos to watch. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
You're welcome. You deserve to have this information. There are many good reasons why this information hasn't been available. It really isn't anyone's fault. I've been fortunate to have the good luck to be able to write my books and then have a son who is very interested in making videos and working with me. I also have a very supportive husband. I can't believe I've been so fortunate.
I have sewn on and off for about 30 years. I don’t enjoy garment sewing because I don’t know what I am doing! And then there’s the fit! Drives me crazy. I quilt instead because I have learned the techniques and practiced through the process over and over. After watching this video I feel encouraged to try again.
I do love fashion and am going on a sustainable fashion tour with Catherine of Catherine Sews this upcoming spring!!
Thank you! I have a body that is constantly changing, have been sewing for over 60 years and haven't conquered the fit yet. Love your direct approach.
Thanks for your compliment. Fit is the big problem for most people who sew.
😂 love your direct way of talking to us. I'm 82, left school 14 went to the sewing industry. Retired only last year teaching a small group of people men and women. Tell young ones the skills I learned in industry. They don't learn this in home tech at school. Thank you.
Thank you for teaching industrial skills. Anyway I can help you, please let me know. My email address is Laurel@CFashionEdu.com Phone: 215 884 7065
I LOVE how direct you are! You are such a freakin’ breath of fresh air. THANK YOU.
Thanks! Your comment sounds good to me! I would have said the same if I could have had this information when I was young. I want YOU and others like you to have it. Thanks again!
Hi. Interesting video ! But there are some points you make that I don’t fully agree.
You chose the most expensive pattern company as an example. Almost all other pattern companies are far cheaper than Vogue.😅 So paying 30$ for a patterns is definitely not the norm. For me it’s usually between 3-15€ for single patterns and about 8-10€ for magazines with several patterns. I think the most I ever paid was 18€ for a single pattern from an independent French company. But it was worth it. I made a beautiful red trench coat from that patterns which I still love.
I started sewing around 2014 and made my first garment (a skirt ) about a year later. Of course I had a few fails over the years but have made a lot of great fitting garments , too. But through the fails I learned a lot and I appreciate that.
I don’t think it’s fair and realistic to compare an industrial setting with a home sewers setting. For example I wouldn’t have enough space at home to spread the fabric so cutting on the fold is more convenient. My dining table is my sewing space. And it’s not that big. This might be different in the US where everything is bigger 😜 but here in Germany apartments and houses are smaller I think.
For me part of the hobby of sewing is also the fun of buying different patterns and sharing them with sewing friends. For some people it might be fun to draft their own patterns from a sloper. But for me that’s just not the case right now.
I also appreciate having more than one size in a pattern. I never fit only one size. My bottom half has always been a little bigger than the top. I often grade between sizes which is not a big deal at all. I also almost always have to lengthen the sleeves and sometimes the bodice. But these are very easy adjustments. Granted it would be different if I had to adjust for a different size bust or a broader back. Then I believe it could be useful to draft your own pattern. With the different sizes I can also easily share the patterns with friends or make it in another size years later.
Regarding seam allowance, it differs from company to company. As a German I sometimes use Burda patterns from the Burda Magazine or the online shop. They don’t have seam allowances included and I add them myself. There are also different European patterns makers that have smaller seam allowances. But you are right. 1,5 cm is used most often.
Sorry for the lengthy comment. Hope you are not offended. I will definitely watch more of your videos because I am eager to learn from you.
Ongoing self taught sewist here, and my mind is having continuous seismic events while watching this… I have struggles with pattern sewing since I began sewing and therefore have not used patterns much thinking I was “stupid” because I couldn’t grasp it. It’s such a relief to know my hunch was not wrong!
AND… not cutting on the fold-of course! Makes so much sense!
You have yourself a new avid follower! 🎉
I felt exactly the same as you. I had no option but to go to a thrift store and looked for a dress that fitted nicely on the bodice and ripped it apart and copied it. Later, I learned how to daft patterns myself.
@@mayrajscortes Good for you! Sounds like you are very talented. This is proof of inborn engineering abilities.
I don't want anyone thinking they are stupid. You're NOT! The home-sewing instructions are awful. It's no wonder no one sews anymore.
i have trouble with cutting on the fold as well, the sides always end up having different dimensions. i thought i was the problem, made me hate the cutting process because of how slow i'm getting to try to get it right every time :)
@@MRSDAVID1 It's NOT your fault! Unfortunately too many of us assume that it's all our fault when our sewing goes wrong. The problem is: good information just isn't out there.
Thank you for breaking the myth that the pattern is 'gospel'. Alll these years of frustration and failure, and it most likely was a junk pattern making the mess. I am encouraged to try again!
Good luck! You should have more, now that you know it's not you.
I have just found your channel, and boy am I glad I have! I am middle-aged and started to sew last year; I have learned a fair amount, but this is information is on another level. Thank you so much for taking the time to share your knowledge with us all.
Thanks for your compliment. More coming.
I wish i had seen and heard you years ago. I have sewn all my life and struggled. My first dress was a green gingham - which i unpicked many times while stitching …. I was struggling with the zip when my Aunt popped in to visit - she had her own Dress Shop - she saw what i was doing - well she floored me as I remember she just put the zip on the fabric and stitched no problem - perfect job. Thus was all of 62 years ago. Thank you for your video 🌻 I’m watching from South Africa
Thank you so much! Hello to South Africa from Philadelphia! I live in Oreland, a little big town just northwest of Philadelphia, but I think of Philadelphia as home.
Just found your channel--don't know where it came from but it is what I've wanted FOREVER!! THANK YOU!! Where is the best place to start and go through your videos in a systematic order? Thank you, dear lady!
You can start anywhere. The books were written so that most of their courses could be taken in any order. My students were career personnel who already had hectic schedules. Setting up the courses so they had to be taken in a certain order would have been difficult for the students the program attracted. The videos, so far, contain basic information. Watch them in any order because there is no precise order to them anyway.
I love your style of teaching. Thank you so much.
I was so lucky to be asked to teach in college. My program attracted professional men and women, some from the industry. Working first with degree students, then with professionals helped me develop my teaching method. I owe so much to my students. My videos are the result of my interactions with those students. They are the ones to thank.
It's pretty awesome to learn so many things in just 28 minutes. Lol. As someone new to sewing, I have seen the patterns as infallible and I always assumed that any problem that arose was my inexperience.
I have wasted SO much fabric trying to cut per pattern fold over instructions.
Also, parchment paper from the grocery store works as well. 😊
The benefit of tracing paper is that you can draft on one side, then turn it over and correct the previous drafting. Then turn it back over and erase the original drafting. I do it all the time. Think I never make mistakes? PLEASE............. And just in case you are wondering, I have my books open when I sew and I turn the pages as I work through the project(s). I don't remember all this stuff. In fact, when I am using my books it is hard for me to realize that I actually wrote the stuff. It always seems as if someone else wrote an diagrammed it.
@laurelhoffmann1594 Thank you so much! I love this channel.
You're my new favorite RUclipsr. You also remind me of my fashion professors 😍🤩
I find that older patterns have better “tailoring”, if I can call it that. The sewing details are typically better, especially finishing techniques. So I pick up vintage patterns whenever I can.
I was required to take Home arc in high school, in the late 1960’s. I followed that by taking sewing in 4H, which was taught by a professional seamstress.
I still make a lot of my clothes, mainly because I hate fast fashion.
You are correct in everything you said. Count me as a new subscriber.
Thanks! Sounds like you were already on the right track. And thanks for subscribing.
You were really lucky to have a professional seamstress when you were in 4H.
@btd3375 please, from what years do you consider vintage patterns?
@ I consider vintage patterns to be anything older than 1970. The period before 1965 was especially rich in quality patterns. Great sewing details as compared to after pattern companies made things simpler to attract new sewers. You give up so much quality when you do that and the result is that newer sewers don’t learn the difference.
Now, it is true that what I tend to call “indie” pattern companies (mistakenly, no doubt) do have a different quality level than the big 4 or 5.
But I would rather buy a pattern for a single size, with quality garment details, than have the ability to have multiple sizes in one envelope and get confused in cutting it out or not having room on the paper for details.
A golden age in patterns for me is around 1960. For example, vests/waistcoat patterns had real welt pockets. Not fake pockets. And shirts often had gussets to relieve seam stress. And, women’s’ clothes that had pockets had real pockets that were useful.
Long seams like on shirt sides were generally flat-felled, not single stitch and either pinked or zig-zagged. In decades past, most people had less clothes but they were often better quality. Because better quality lasted longer.
I do have some lovely 1930’s and 40’s patterns, but you have to really be into retro to wear them. You can find those in antique or vintage shops.
@ thank you!!
As a self-taught sewist, I have sewn up a lot items over the years and unafraid to tackle any sewing project--well, except perhaps shoes. No one has ever said "did I make that?" to me unless they knew I sewed. Usually it was as you noted, 'where did I buy that?'
Some years back, a friend and I made slopers that fit our bodies. I referred to that time and again. Now that I'm retired, I'm getting back into sewing my clothes but my sloper is missing (or misplaced; I wouldn't toss it) although it's made for my much younger and slimmer self. I'm glad to know that there are books out there so I can remake one.
I learned a lot from this video and appreciate your forthrightness on many issues. Glad to see I'm not the only one that makes notes all over the pattern. I totally agree with you that patterns are far too expensive so I wait for them to be on sale--big sale.
I will be checking out your other videos. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks! Sounds like you are very talented.
@@laurelhoffmann1594 Thank you for the compliment. My talents are due to years of experience and my share of flops.The great thing about flops is the learning what went wrong and do better the next time.
@@sandyp2485 I always say to my students, "Make a mistake, join the human race. You don't learn anything if you don't make mistakes. Please share your mistakes with the class so we can all learn."
I asked my students to tell me what they needed to learn, and to tell me when they didn't understand in my books. In the beginning I didn't like it, but I hid my feelings because I needed to know. And then I began to like it! Now criticism doesn't bother me, because listening to others gives me not only the benefit of my own mind, but that of others as well.
Wow! Just found your channel. This is great. Your information is direct, straightforward and informative. I am a returning to sewing after many years. I remember buying patterns for as low as $1.25 and fabric for $1.99/yard. It’s crazy out there now. Love watching your channel. Thank you for your directness. Bravo 👏🏼
Consider taking patterns off ready-made garments. No need to remove even a stitch. Done all the time in industry. The best patterns are industrial patterns.
@@laurelhoffmann1594I have found that difficult.
This is what I’ve been looking for!!!
As someone with an engineering background I got into sewing because poorly fitting garments are so obvious and annoying to me.
I actually learnt from historical dress recreators so I often have no idea what the modern solutions are and land up hand sewing probably a lot more than I need to (but I like embroidery so it’s not bad).
But to learn from someone with the actual technical instructions I’m looking for is exactly what I’ve been trying to find
My mom was taught in Europe to operate an atelier. She came to North America and worked in a high end Toronto exclusive shop to alter to fit. The other worker had no idea. Then when she was pregnant she was dismissed as per Simpson’s policy. At home she was brought Vogue patterns and expensive foreign materials and was able to cut them properly to make additional pieces for ensembles and said Vogue instructions were the worst. Being an expert she couldn’t explain to teach me (“It’s obvious!”). But watching her showed how intuitively she handled the fabric to cut and fit for every unique figure in a more complementary design than the tissue showed. Fittings were amazing. Mom’s old now and I made her a dressing gown set for Harry’s Royal Wedding. She loved my gift.
It sounds as though your mother was very talented. Tell me, did you have a wardrobe to die for? I always saw my children as dolls to dress. They had their brother/sister train outfits, zoo outfits, etc. When Halloween came they had their choice of costumes. But they never could understand why their teachers guessed them first when they went to school in their costumes on Halloween. ;-))
@@cvan1075 Thank you for sharing this. ❤️
Thank you for exposing this, I need your books in my collection 📚
Thank you. Right now I'm trying to get supplies in, as I have orders that are waiting to be filled.
You have forgotten more about pattens and sewing than I have ever even learned. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks! Such a nice compliment.
THANK YOU! I thought the pattern problems were mostly my fault. It got to the place that I just decided to take up quilting because quilts didn't have to fit me properly~ LOL! I learned sewing from 4-H, home-ec, Stretch-and-Sew, briefly working as a stage costume sewist, from books, from Sewing With Nancy, and so on. There are basic skills you share here that I have NEVER heard of before! I need to try these. I have previously hated sewing invisible zippers. I have had much trouble cutting on the folded fabric. I plan to save and purchase your books. I am new subscriber now!
It isn't your fault. Not by a long shot. Thanks for your comments.
I started quilting too because I want to sew but clothing seems intimidating
@@creatinghanley You're not alone. I think that is the underlying reason so many women are into quilting.
Here may be a surprise: The procedures used in quilting are the same procedures used in the industry. I strongly suspect that the industrial procedures, developed here in the USA during the two World Wars, now used globally, were developed from the quilting procedures. I always love when a quilter wants to take lessons with me because I know they already have the essential skills in place - cutting and sewing on gauge.
In the 90s I attended a Sandra Bettina sewing workshop and learned the single most valuable thing that made my sewing look store-bought: bias-cut sewing! The pattern companies sewed samples that way, but left cutting instructions that would save money, but would look homemade, and you would wonder why your sewing efforts looked homemade!!!!
Bettina, that is
Bettzina
My experience with editors is that too many of them have never worked in industry. Home sewing procedures went out of date 100 years ago. During the First and Second World Wars the USA apparel industry sent orders out to small USA manufacturing concerns who were making other products using low-level engineering procedures. They developed the apparel manufacturing methods now used globally, even in the Paris houses. But because of line-assembly, few, even in the apparel industry understand how the whole system works. No one is trying to keep this a secret. It's just the way it is. I had wonderful mentors when I worked in industry. I believe this information should be available to everyone who wants to learn it.
@@laurelhoffmann1594Brilliant! Thank you! 😃🤩🙏
Wow I love listening to you ..sure wish you had been my home ec teacher ..I'm learning so much thank you
NO, NO, NO! I could NEVER have been your home ec teacher. :-)) Home ec is over 100 years out of date. This is industrial couture! How the professionals do it for preferred customers. Much of the work I did in industry was shown only to customers who could easily afford clothing that cost in the thousands of dollars. Want to make clothes you could NEVER afford to buy? Watch my videos.
I absolutely love your straightforward no nonsense delivery! I worked in a garment factory in my 20's topsitching straps and flaps for the military. Industrial sewing is so efficient because time is money and even in our homes our time is still valuable at 50 lol. I swear they instruct now to make it even more confusing, it's like they over explain.🤷♀️ Love your channel and I am going to look into your books too!
The problem is that even in the industry most don't have these skills. I was fortunate to have wonderful mentors when I was in the industry. I was just in the right places at the right times.
@@laurelhoffmann1594Well THAT is priceless. I'm glad I have found your channel.
@@Fraususemil Thank you! You have made my day!
Thanks for sharing. Lessons learned..don’t cut on fold, reduce seam sizes. . I will look for yellow tracing paper. This summer I finally made a t shirt sloper that actually fits. I will watch your other videos to improve my skills. I do like multi sized patterns. Pear shape bodies are not all one size…. And many patterns include tops and bottoms. And I only buy patterns at Joann sales. I would love to have a top sloper, and a pants one and a skirt one. For me a great compliment I received this summer was.. your dress is gorgeous..where did you buy it. I don’t save money with home sewing..but it is a better fit and better fabric, and it is rewarding. I subscribed.
I make my clothes - ALL of them that you see on my videos. I can't afford to buy what I can make. :-)) I buy clothes for when I'm at home so as to save the clothes I make for when I go out.
Thank you so very much for sharing your knowledge and insight. This is priceless. I have been struggling to even find patterns that I can adjust small enough for a 23 inch waist and 32 inch inseam for my daughter’s work clothing. She also has broad shoulders to accommodate.
Of all the sewing procedures, I've always found that the fit is the most difficult of the sewing procedures for most people who sew. When my continuing professional students at Jefferson University asked me to show them how to fit home sewing patterns, I thought it would be a breeze. Every thing always fit me. (I was a fit model in the industry - along with everything else.) But was I in for a shock! I quickly found out that just about everyone is wearing clothes that don't fit. AND, the patterns can't always be depended on for accurate grading! So.... I started writing and testing with my students, who, fortunately gave me unbelievable feed-back. It's they you should thank, for telling me what they needed to know, and for explaining what they understood or didn't understand as I tested my writing with them.
I have been sewing since I was a 5th grader. I am 76 years old. Patterns and fabrics have gotten so expensive that I don't make many of my own clothes anymore. However, I do hang on to my old patterns.There isn't any reason for me to buy new commercial patterns at the full price. The old patterns are easier to use; and, fashion repeats itself.
Check your local extension office - every county in the USA has one. They may have fabric sales where they sell donated fabrics. If so, the buys are fantastic!
@@laurelhoffmann1594 I'm sorry; but, our Extension Service has sent out requests for us to donate fabric for making baby quilts. I live in Eastern Kentucky.
@@arvettadelashmit9337 Sorry about that. If you weren't so far away from Philadelphia, I'd ask for their address. I need to get rid of fabric.
Yes, yes, yes! Laurel. I studied at a trade school and learned production sewing and pattern drafting. Thats when i finally enjoyed sewing. I dont know why colleges continue to use commercial patterns when teaching sewing. I say no more commercial patterns in fashion design programs. Its so wrong.
Right you are!
This was bout 15 or 20 years ago? I’m now 61 and just learning to sew. So happy you’re still around and giving us Good information.
So am I! :-))
Knowing that all the pattern are for some standard measurements, I always just compare my measurements, and pick size. After that I lengthen the whole thing and the sleeves, and tighten the chest area, because I’m very thin in the chest. But the chest measurement isn’t always listed on a size charts (other patterns than vogue). By now this system has worked for me perfectly every time
Sounds like you've got it figured out. I learned in my classes that not many have.
The chest size is 2 inches smaller than the bust size listed on the back of the pattern packet.
This video is over my head since I haven't sewn garments yet .. but I'll be subscribing so I can learn! Thank you
Thank you for this particular video. I once had a seamstress and had beautiful fitting clothing, and I am trying my best to learn to make my own patterns and sew my own clothing correctly. You are right, the professionals who sew clothing in factories will probably never share their techniques. This is so sad for home sewers, who may not have had home economics at their schools and are dependent on the terrible pattern companies. I used two commercial patterns this year: one had issues I could correct and the other was a simple robe with the tie on the left side. It was an utter disaster; the important seams were mismatched (the collar/band) and not only did not line up with the shoulder seams, but were too short to end at the proper placement on the center front. No more commercial patterns for me. I will be buying your books and will watch the rest of your videos. You are a gem and really deserve kudos for doing what is right. Thank you so much for sharing you knowledge with us.
I was really happy to find some 40 year old videos by Margaret Islander by trying to find a video on how to sew without pins because they don't use pins in industrial sewing- too time consuming
It's not that the professionals don't want to share their information, it's that they are working full time, may not have writing or teaching skills, or if they do, may not have any way to test if their writing works. I have been extremely lucky - first with the mentors I had in industry - three European master tailors, the top layout artist at Alfred Angelos, the top grader in the Philadelphia area. Then, because the industry was moving off shore, being hired, in spite of being a woman, to run a factory. Years later, after having high success with my daughter's 4-H club, I was asked to teach in college. After five years teaching degree fashion students, I was asked to teach continuing education students, which later included design-room professionals. Just incredible luck!
@@laurelhoffmann1594What an incredible career!
@@SyKnife Thanks! It was all accidental. I never had any desire to work in the fashion industry. I started out with a major in journalism. It was my mother's idea that I switch to fashion . I think she wanted me to make clothes for her. Then the college dropped the program. I sewed for others before leaving home to make some money, then moved to the city in hopes of doing better. I was good at it, but the only reason I went into the industry was because I couldn't make any money doing custom sewing.
@@CeresIsABetterPlanetThanPluto Margaret Islander was the first to go into industry to learn how industry sews. She was an outstanding pioneer.
Well, they don't use pins on the line, as she said. However, when I worked in the couture department at Alfred Angelos' where I was an assistant designer, we did a lot of pinning to hold the lace applique in place before it was machine sewn to the wedding gowns, which sold for over $10,000 back in the late 1960s.
However, when I sew I don't pin straight seams as I sew notch-to-notch, as done in industry. But tricky spots sometimes need to be pinned. I know sample making, but I'm not a sample maker, so I'm not the speed ball they are.
Dang, this is brilliant! Just discovered you and look forward to following and unlearning all my old home ec habits!!!
Hi Laurel, I just found your channel and boy am I relieved! I now KNOW I am not crazy. I felt like either my body was wonky or I just kept choosing pattern after pattern that was intentionally NOT made to fit me and ended up in the trash. LOL This video was so informative and helpful. Thank you so much for making it. I do have one suggestion, however. If you make any more videos like the one teaching about fixing the sleeve cap, it would be TREMEDOUSLY helpful if you could make the bottom pattern tracing lines much darker so we can see and understand what you are doing. I was lost a few times during that one and re-watched it several times to understand what you were showing and teaching us. Thank you so much for sharing your wealth of knowledge with us all.
Thanks! and thanks for the critique! It's very important to learn how the videos are seen. I can't thank my continuing education students enough for all the critiques they gave me when I was teaching at first Jefferson and then Drexel University. If one listens to others' comments one reaps such benefits.
Have posted your comment on my monitor so I have it to refer to the next time we are editing. Thanks again!!!
I graduated from an apparel manufacturing and design program 20 years ago, but didn’t sew in the interim. Now I’m trying to sew for myself using home sewing patterns. You are such a gem to find as I try to remember what I learned about industrial sewing. I was never a home sewer. (I worked for a men’s accessories company) ❤
You were lucky to be taught manufacturing techniques. As I understand it, most programs aren't teaching industrial sewing, at least that is how I found it when I taught in college. It is fairly common for industry's designing departments to hire off the street because the fashion graduates have so much to unlearn and such unrealistic expectations. I always found the easiest students to teach were those who had no previous sewing instruction.
Wow, I’m so happy your channel was suggested to me! This is great information. I love your delivery-straight to the point!
Thank my previous continuing-education students. That's the method that worked with them, so I'm still using it.
Thanks! Others need this information that I wish I had when I was trying to sew. When I was a teen I would buy a pattern and some fabric in the five and ten. I was so excited. I was convinced I would have something really pretty to wear when I would finish. But in the end I had spent my money and my time only to be so disappointed.
Thank you, Laurel! I am so glad you showed up in my feed! ❤
So am I! Thank you!
Hi Laurel, great video, I am a guy who sees and I will look at more of your videos and your books. Thank you.
Thanks!
Laurel, you are the best! Thank you for making this video.
Thanks! My pleasure.
My mom sewed for me in the 50's-60's. I took Home Ec in the early 70's and made clothes for myself. I went by the measurements on the pattern envelope (mostly Simplicity or McCalls) and never used a muslin. Only had to use the "shorten" line for pants and skirts. About 5 years ago I decided to make myself a couple of simple, cotton tops. Total disaster- they were huge on me. I gave up. Patterns today are way too expensive and sized wrong. The only thing I try now are pj pants and through trial and error, figured out how to size down! In the meantime Ive been quilting. Now here's a hobby where measurements produce reliable results! Thank you for your videos!
Very happy to have just found you !
I’ve sewn garments before ( since teenager) but always, a bit disappointed with fit etc. I went into quilting and enjoy it much. But now I feel like I can watch some of your video’s and possible be more successful with garments. Fingers crossed 🤞You’ve inspired me!
Thanks for such a nice compliment, Laura. Glad to help.
I just came across your channel Laurel and as a home sewist your insights are extremely useful. Thanks for taking the time to pass on this information.
Thank you so much for your response. You and others like you should have this information.
Wow, I am so glad that I found your channel. You are so full of information. I’m following my heart and starting on my sewing journey. i’m sure I am going to learn a lot from your videos. Thank you for sharing your information and knowledge and expertise.
Thanks! That's our aim.
Hello Laurel, so good to see you. Hope you and your family are all well and happy.
Thank you! This is so well presented and appreciated!!
Thanks so much! I have to give credit to my son, Andrew. He has studied many video education programs and worked hard to present excellent videos. Without him, these videos would not be possible. It's such a pleasure to work with him.
@@laurelhoffmann1594 Bravo to the both of you!!! Thank you, again!
@@moniquedawn5252 Thanks again!
You are an awesome well of information!!!!!
Thank you so much. That's the goal - information.
Thanks so much laurel,
I appreciate what your teaching us .
Anything that makes the finished product not only better but quite to make ,
Is just fabulous
Thank you for all of this information. I enjoyed your video.
The industry has a "f" word. It's fold, and you now know why. What a shame. I blame it on the stupid instructions in the home-sewing patterns and many sewing courses.
I've always loved using multi sized patterns because I have a weird size body so i can adjust every thing to fit me very well
I hear you. I found that many people have "weird" size bodies. I think, when we get down to it, just about everyone does.
Thank you for sharing the techniques you learned in the industry. I’ve purchased 4 of Laurel’s books and highly recommend them!
Andy, I follow your quilting posts on Instagram religiously. They are excellent! instagram.com/andymartinmakes/
Thank you, thank you for sharing these things and offering your very valuable advice. There is so much for me to learn here.
Thanks!
Problem on your website resolved! Book ordered! thank you...
I love your no bs approach. As a slim petite with an H bust, no pattern fits me. Even the pictures in the burda pattern books show garnments that look horrible. And they are expensive
You can have clothes that fit. I couldn't believe the fit problems that came up in my classes. It was an education. But from what you have said, I suspect you have a model's figure and would good in just about anything, if it were designed to fit you.
I used a commercial pattern for a shift in high school home ec in the 1960's then I copied the basics of that to design my prom gown in 1971. I used a Simplicity pattern once around that time. The dress didn't last because it was all one piece including the sleeves which soon tore at the under arms. I don't think I have used a commercial pattern since except some Barbie doll clothes. I draft from books or my own ideas. I mostly make circle skirts.
As always you bring really great information to the home seamstress. Your insight on patterns is spot on. They are expensive and lack good basic sewing skills. Thanks for the video. You are very inspirational and motivating. I love that top you are wearing.
Thanks, Jeannette! Good to hear from you. Love, Laurel
I rarely buy patterns anymore & generally do it when I see something I like for sale & am feeling lazy.
I love multi-size patterns cause it makes it much easier to fit to me.
I took Home Ec for 6 years & went on to become a professional costumer - I currently make stuffed animals & doll clothing ( plus stuff for myself). I can draft my own patterns & do tailoring. I also never use pattern layouts but omg I cut on the fold a lot because it’s less time consuming & no, I make sure it is on the grain lol. Now, if I’m using a really expensive or delicate type of material I compensate.
I do this thing called FIT while I sew!!!!
I will most certainly continue to clip seams lol. I’m a tailor & making a narrower seam does not change the need to clip.
I’m not particularly impressed with the quality of garments I find in stores, even high end stores, btw, so saying this is ‘industry standard’ leaves me cold.
Making muslins & slopes is de rigeur, of course.
Interested in your comments. Thank you for sharing.
"...at least you only have one size to deal with..."?! Multisize patterns are vastly superior. Who is the same size all over their body?
Good point! It's true, most people are not the same size all over their body. I was stunned by this when my continuing professional students asked me to teach them how to fit home-sewing patterns. I was a fit model in the industry. Everything in the stores in my size, even today years later fits me. I had no idea, until I had that class, how many problems people have with getting clothes to fit.
In fact, I discovered in that class that most people are wearing clothing that don't fit.
However, multi-sized patterns can be confusing for some people. It's my opinion that it would be better if just one size were in a pattern packet. But I have no problem with your disagreement. I always listened to all voices in my classes. As a result I wrote books that are very different than they would have been if I hadn't listened to my students. I asked them what they wanted to learn, what problems they had, and to please tell me what they didn't understand in my books.
If one knows how one differs from their best pattern size, then, if the pattern was graded correctly, one needs to make the same changes in every pattern (that was graded correctly using the same grade rule), to their best pattern size.
The big problem with women is that the pattern directions say to choose one's size by the bust measurement, causing at least one-third of all women who sew to choose the wrong size. This proved to be the case again and again in my continuing professional education classes at first Jefferson and then Drexel Universities.
The solution to all these fit problems that turned up in my classes was to write "Grading to FIt," which shows how to first develop a personal sloper that fits, then determine the grading coordinates that enable grading one's pattern size to a custom fit. Not an easy book to use and understand, but proven in my classes to work exceptionally well.
Again, thanks for your comment, and also for reading this very long reply. Hope to hear again from you. Eager to read your comments.
@@laurelhoffmann1594last time I was in Kohl's trying on some clothes - this was back in spring - nothing had fit me right at all. First I tried the women's department but nothing fit. Than in desperation (and curiosity) I tried the kids department... In the past (around 2014) a 10-12 used to fit me with Tshirt. Well that was now too big. So I tried a size 8 (from the kids department mind you) and it sort of fit but the bottom of the tshirt was ballooning out around my waist! It was just horrid!! The shoes from them are all too big and don't fit my feet either. Tried on sandals from the kids department and my foot was too shallow for the straps to hold my feet in place properly. I think its this obesity epidemic - they are changing the size of clothes to make everything bigger but then when you are an adult woman who is XS nothing fits. But this is what happens when you have celiac plus a corn allergy and end up on a meat based diet because that is what you can eat. And I do a lot of walking + hiking + yoga + I go see my horses every Thursday morning. 🐎 lately I try to alter stuff a bit so it fits. Haven't bought any pattern yet. Not that far yet. 😂 I have successfully sewed a pair of pants off a pair of my leggings though. But nothing in the store fits.
Thank you for sharing this information! You know what you’re talking about 🙏
What a compliment! Thanks so much!
II’m with you Laurel - I hate patterns!
What an incredible treasure trove of information you are!! Thank you for sharing your knowledge here. Where can I purchase your books??
Hi Laurel are you the same instructor that taught factory methods at Philadelphia Textiles in Philadelphia PA? I wanted to take your certificate courses but children were young. I also fostered many children. But now I’m 61 and finally learning to sew. So glad I found you again.
Yes I am. I'm glad you did.
Have sewn for 45 years. I shop resale for patterns and purchased many when you could get them for $1.99 on sale. I've sewn kids clothes, costumes, formal wear, upholstery, etc. I worked at an alteration shop also. I still can't fit anything on myself. Now I'm middle aged and fat so it's even worse. But I keep trying because I guess I'm a sadist.
You are hardly alone. I do fit myself, but I'm an easy fit, as I'm pretty much standard size. I've fit over 500 students. For some reason it's easy for me, but that's not usually the case, as I have found out with my students.
Thank you so so much. ❤️ I bought several patterns which never fit and need changing the pattern. Foreign patterns are also not to fit and very $10-15 with 6-8sizes.
Oh dear! These days I don't even bother with home-sewing patterns. I go to the store, find something I like and that fits, bring it home and copy the pattern off it. Don't remove any labels, not even a stitch. Copy the garment, often with a very different fabric and color, then take the item back to the store and have it taken off my charge. Done all the time in industry, only they make thousands - I only make one. There are no copy-right laws on apparel.
Buying a pattern by your upper bust measurement is more accurate if you’re making anything that is worn from the shoulders. Th upper bust reflects the shoulder more accurately than the chest size. I have a small ribcage but wide shoulders. Nothing would fit well if I went by my chest. A skirt or pants is chosen but hip size. A waist ca be altered easier than hips.
Thank you for sharing this with us! I need to find the books, and am trying to improve my new skills ( just started sewing in September). How do we make a sloper?
The answer is in my book, "Grading to Fit." laurelhoffmann.com/product/grading-to-fit/ The book's download includes Standard-Size Slopers, sizes 2 through 30. The book tells you how to determine your correct size by your chest measurement, measured under your bust (NOT your bust size). Then how to develop a personal sloper that fits you. Finally, how to determine your grading coordinates, which will allow you to grade home-sewing patterns to your custom fit. The book's sequel shows how to use this information to grade a blouse pattern. Its sequel shows how to then grade a jacket pattern to your custom fit. Nothing about this procedure is easy, but it has been classroom tested and proven to work. If you email me I can send you Rita's successes in the course. She didn't want me to put her pictures up on line, so I honor her request, but I know she wouldn't mind my emailing her pictures to you. Laurel@CFashionEdu.com
I found out a decade ago that I do not get a fit I want with commercial patterns, especially for body-hugging fit from woven fabrics. I thought myself to custom draft to my measurements and design almost everything from a basic sloper. Took long time but I got it. If I use commercial patterns - only with a lots of ease like flowy tunics or simple tops with a lots of ease. Sometimes I try cute patterns like vintage blouse and find myself completely re-drafting almost the whole thing because everything is wrong - bust dart depth, bust apex is wrong, waist darts are too tight etc… too much effort.
Your thoughts on a dress form. Do you have a video on dress forms?
Hi Laurel, you just came across my feed and I'm intrigued. I'm from Philadelphia and you mentioned a Philly website that I didn't know existed. You're in Philadelphia ? This video is a gem as I haven't sewed in years and these patterns are troublesome. Hope to see more tutorial videos from you. Will definitely check out your website. Where can I find your books? Thanks so much. Kathleen.
Regarding pricing - I think commercial patterns have unfortunately gone the same route store like Kohl's have where the list price is overinflated to such a ridiculous degree so that when there is a "sale" you feel like you are getting such a bargain even though you are just paying what should be the regular price. So many stores in the US do this because it works. I hate it :( And speaking of Kohl's....don't even get me started on the quality of clothing in that store. It's horrible!
Thank you for taking the time to make these, Laurel. Where can your books be found? The link goes to a 401 page.
laurelhoffmann.com/ Sorry about the problems with the link.
I just came across your channel and subscribed. I appreciate the insights you provide here and will be reviewing this video again and delve into the others! Where can I purchase your book Sewing Techniques From The Fashion Industry?
Thank you! All of my books are available from my website: laurelhoffmann.com/ Scroll down on the fist page and you will see all of the books. Hit any of the books and it will take you to that's book page. Scroll down on any of the books' pages and you will see all of the other books.
There is also a lot of information on my blog. It's indexed at laurelhoffmann.com/index-cfe-blog/ I need to index the latest posts, but they are obvious as soon as you hit the "blog" link on my website.
@laurelhoffmann1594 thank you so much!!
Thank you for the review. But! If one is sewing couture the seam allowances are larger - 1 inch usually as I recall. Would not couture sewing be an exception. I can remember (dating myself I know) when $5 was a lot for a pattern - usually Vogue.
I remember $5 Vogue patterns too, and it was a lot of money then. No harm in adding a one-inch seam allowance to couture garments. High-end garments have wide seam allowances.
Vogue patterns in the 1960s had the worst instructions! As in, almost none. One was literally "sew the top, attach the skirt, don't forget the belt".
Crazy. I made size small elastic waist simplicity pants and they came into like a big medium. A t shirt pattern had such tight arms! I'm 112 pounds, how can it be tight? Love your video
Sounds like it's wrong. Thanks for the comment.
"Don't cut on the fold!"
I just learned this the hard way with a recent project. The side that was on the bottom was massively off grain, and the pattern made it really obvious. :/
So sorry. Anyone who cuts on the fold risks disaster, as you unfortunately found out. I take a long time laying out patterns and cutting. I layout on a grid, mark the fabric's side I've chosen to be the face, check the fabric's grain lines with my L-squares, cut all one direction, often safety pin or pin a seam allowance on the wrong side of the fabric, roll each piece in its pattern before I take it to the machine, as I did in the industry. Only there the sample maker sewed the garment together. Now I have it all to do myself. A lot of work, but worth the effort when I have finally finished the garment.
Great info ! I have the tiniest shoulders
That's OK. Everyone is different. It's what makes the world go round.
Thank you. I have been so frustrated with so many patterns. I sew and the fit is awkward.
Fit is the big problem with sewing. There are no straight lines on the body. Everyone is different. So different I couldn't believe it when I taught in continuing education. I had no idea so many people had problems with fit until I taught in college.
I use a pintuck foot to install an invisible zipper, and I use steam a seam prior to sewing the zipper. Look up Kenneth King's method for invisible zippers
Thanks for the information, but my method works great for me. I think I'll stay with that. If you like Kenneth King's method, that's OK with me too.
THANK YOU for your lovely videos. I am ordering one of your books, but am having trouble on your website. When I try to enter my address information the page flips to the top of the order form. Thank you, I will try again! It happens when I hit the space key.
Thanks for telling me. Copying your comment and emailing it to my web designers.
I can’t stand modern patterns. They are awful. When I use a pattern I always use vintage preferably 1960s or older. Otherwise I pattern draft my own patterns. Knowing your measurements is KEY! Great advice!
I'm with you!
I gotta say -- really glad for a lot of this information, but I would be very sad if the world went back to one size per pattern packet. Maybe this is damage from a lifetime of buying clothes off the rack that don't fit, or having size numbers be essentially arbitrary between clothing brands... but I appreciate patterns that offer a size range so that you can adjust more closely to your actual body size before having to go off-script, as it were.
For example, if I'm making a dress, and the pattern I buy only has one size, and I'm measuring from my chest to determine my size, I can guarantee you that that dress will not correctly fit my hips. It will be too small, because I'm spoon- or pear-shaped. A dress pattern that comes with a range of sizes might allow me to pick the smallest size for the bodice and the largest size for the skirt, and then I have a lot less fussing around to do to make it fit than if the pattern only included one size.
Basically, relying on a single "size" for a garment is nonsense, whether you're talking home sewing patterns or mass-produced garments, because people are not shaped the same. The size of my chest tells you nothing about the size of my hips and I appreciate having a little more built-in flexibility in home sewing patterns to accommodate that.
Edit to add: You can absolutely teach yourself to sew on youtube, that's what I've been doing for the past two years or so
😅
I need sewing patterns that have multiple sizes because I am pear shaped. From my shoulders down to my hips my body spreads over 4 sizes.
The sewing methods in home sewing patterns can take longer than industrial methods - which is stupid. I sew in sleeves by the industrial methods 😊😁
I don't understand the appeal of individual patterns in packets. They cost absolute fortune and only save very little time compared to good quality sewing patterns magazines like Burda Style. Here in the UK every month we get a new issue in English (from Germany), it costs £8.99 and contains 20-30 patterns of very fashion forward pieces, each in 6 sizes. The only "complication" is that you have to trace the pattern you need on tissue paper and cut it out. Also, the Burda patterns do not include seam allowances, which is PERFECT for making any changes to the pattern, and for allowing for seams as any particular fabric and pattern piece requires. I have used Burda since 1986, and the patterns are extremely high (German!) quality. I trust these tried and tested patterns, which are still incredibly affordable compared to random pattern makers that pop up like mushrooms everywhere and who charge for a pattern more than a fabric might cost. This just does not make any sense.
I love your industry methods by the way.
I love your comments. I was trained by three European master tailors, among others. What I learned about European sewing I will always treasure.
Cutting on the fold is helpful if your table space is limited.
Dear miss Hoffmann, I want you as my aunt.
OK!
Since I draft my own patterns I call my clothes Designer Originals.
Thank you.
$5.99 is Vogue's ordinary sale price that shows up in ads regularly. Their price every other day is 30% off, both at my local store and online.I hope sewists weren't scared off by hearing $35.
So why do they print such high prices on their patterns? I do love Vogue, but these days I take patterns off ready-made clothing. There are no copy-rights on clothes, plus the industry does it all the time - and make 1000s, I just make one.
Are big 5 patterns ever not on sale over there though? In the U.K. there’s never sales where Vogue patterns are so cheap and being a print at home person I’m stuffed because Vogue just aren’t there yet.
Oh boy! Have you tried taking patterns off ready-made garments? Lay tracing paper over each section that was obviously cut from a pattern. Then check that the seam lines sew. Add seam allowances. Cut in muslin to check the fit. You may find this easier than it sounds.
Hey, so I went to try to go to your website and I got an error. Then I looked up your books on Amazon, and it says they aren’t available. I am ready to devour all of the knowledge you are offering, but how lol 😅 (other than watching your videos and taking notes ofc)
Thank you for your wonderful support and comment. My books are available from my website, laurelhoffmann.com/ I don't have them available from Amazon.
Multisized patterns make it easier to size up beyond the pattern.
I could not find your books on Amazon. Where are they sold?
My books are sold from my website, laurelhoffmann.com/ They are not sold from Amazon.com Thanks for asking.
What if my cup size on my bust is DD?
Cup size nomenclature is related to bust circumference. The same cup size in the next largest bra or pattern size is given the previous latter. for example: The size C cup in a 34 bra is a size B cup in a 36 bra. The size B cup in a 36 bra is a size A cup in a 38 bra. The C cup in size 36 is the same size as a D cup in size 34.
there is a lady who shows on youtube how to cut your own patterns from a base sloper pattern that you create from your measurement. Her station is called the closet historian and here is her video on how to make a basic shaper block for a bodice: ruclips.net/video/ZYJXKh1_dSI/видео.html It is cheeper if you make your own pattern and will be happier with the results in the end then paying about $50.00 for a pattern that you aren't happy with in the end and don't know how to modify to fit you better.
Sounds good to me.
i can't find any of your books. I looked on amazon and couldn't find them. Can you post links please?
My books are available from my website: laurelhoffmann.com/ Thanks for asking.
Love me a Philly girl!
Hi, Philly girl! I l love PHilly too!
I am trying to find your sewing book-which are all out of print. Any suggestions?
My books are available from my website: laurelhoffmann.com/ Thanks for asking.
Your Instagram address is mis-spelled. The second “L” is missing from your name. At least it is on the video “Problems with Home-Sewing Patterns”.