I just found you, and am now busy watching everything else on your channel! I spent covid learning to restore vintage machines. I got pretty good and now my favorite is the singer 401A. You are so good at teaching! Thank you for taking the time to make these videos.
My favorite sewing machine, Caroline, is my Featherweight. Made in 1941, it runs like a dream. I use it in the classroom to demonstrate various sewing techniques. If one of my students needs to practice, there is no problem with her using the machine as using it is idiot's delight. It's a scaled-down version of the workhorse lock-stitch machine used in the factories. If one wants a computer sewing machine, I have no problem with that, but my little Featherweight sews forward (it's a pain to sew backward) and that's all one needs to make high-end clothing. To back-tack, start the seam with a couple of stitches, lift the foot, pull the fabric forward, and sew over the first couple of stitches. So who is it that needs a machine that reverses? :-)) I also have a 260 Pfaff - made in the 1950s - that is set up with an industrial motor - which I use at home. And I have a Necchi Q132A portable so as to have a machine that I can take into the classroom that zigzags. I know you are wondering if I have an overlock (home sewers call it a serger) and yes, I do. I have a 686 Elna, which is a fantastic machine that sits on the shelf gathering dust. I rarely sew knits, although I did a lot of work with knits in the industry. Knits don't hold up and are a pain to fit as their stretch varies from knit to knit. Thanks for commenting. Happy sewing! Regards, Laurel
I am happy to own a featherweight as well, and I LOVE it! It is convenient to be taken everywhere. It is the freearm version (K 222). Perfect for sleeves and doll clothes! My second favourite is a simple serger. I sew a lot of jerseys for me and my family and find it ridiculously easy with a serger. But I never use sloppy, slinky jerseys, and I always use light seam tape for the shoulder and the upper part of the armpit seams which I learned from examining and comparing shopped garments.
This is useful information. I'm an amateur and home hobbyist. I learned to sew when i was a little girl. I learned to sew from a pattern as a teen in Home Ecc class. (That was a few years ago. ) I never had formal training yet i learned a lot along the way. I wish this information was available back when I started my journey. I have no plans to be a professional designer, but even so, this knowledge will give a professional look to my homemade garments. I think looking good is important even for hobbyist. I want to try my hand at making my own patterns. I'm hard to fit. I'm short and heavy. Understanding how garments are constructed makes sewing easier. I alwsys have to adjust store bought patterns. My next step is to make my own.
Dear Barbara, Thanks so much for your comments. The only reason I applied for work at Alfred Angelos years ago was because I needed the money. I thought then that the industry was "down and dirty." To my surprise I found the sewing MUCH easier to do, and the results far more professional. These days, although I know home-sewing I always use the procedures I learned in the industry. It took me 30 years to write my books, testing them as I did so with my continuing-professional- education students at first Jefferson and then Drexel Unversity. My students included design-room personnel sent in from Notations, Jones of NYC, Lilly Pultzer, etc. I asked all of my students to tell me what they wanted to learn, and to critique my writing. It was tough at first to listen to the criticism, but in time I welcomed it because it was so helpful. Seven of my eight books were written because my students suggested them. "Sewing Techniques from the Industry" is a combination of the sewing skills I taught the degree students before I moved over into continuing professional education. All is written for novices, step-by-step, with information for all figure types, including asymmetrical figures. The books were literally written in the classroom and on my kitchen table. I use my books when I sew. The home-sewing patterns are full of mistakes. (For example: NObody trims seams in industry. The patterns are set up with varying seam allowances and then sewn on gauge.) At times I use home-sewing patterns, but I first go through them, checking and correcting the mistakes.That was what I did with patterns in the industry as well. The designer would pass her work on to me and, I would correct her patterns, have a sample sewn up, try it on to check the fit (I was also the fit model) and wear it in to show it to the boss. If he approved it, then I would grade the patterns so that the factory could mass produce it, usually cutting a 1000 garments.
I enjoyed this tutorial so much that I began reading through the comments I see you have written a book sewing techniques from the industry. I immediately went online to buy said book. As soon as I saw the cover I realized I already have it. Thank you so much these tips are invaluable.
Darn it. I thought I owned your book but I just double checked, and it's a different book with a similar title. I'm trying to locate how I can order your books. I will try another search, thank you.
Just go on my website, laurelhoffmann.com/. All eight books are listed and are for sale. Will ship immediately as for now all sales come right from my house. "Sewing Techniques" is found on page laurelhoffmann.com/product/sewing-techniques-from-the-fashion-industry/ Thanks! Laurel
Your lesson on notch notations was fascinating. I'm an accountant and it reminded me of the particular notations we use when creating workpapers. Each industry has their own way. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
I started sewing clothing for myself last year and this is extremely informative! I have a few pieces in my closet that I would love to recreate. Thank you!
That would be wonderful thank you. I’m a slow sewer and my wee dog is old and having seizures at the moment. I’ll make the pattern soon. I’ll keep you posted x
I sew slowly too. There is no reason to rush. If one takes one's time, correcting as one goes (my stitch rippers look worn out, and they are!) then when one is finished, the work is really good and the garment lasts for years. This SAVES time in the end. Lrl
I really like your philosophy and the time and care you take to make these videos to share your wealth of knowledge. I especially appreciate the reminder that there is no reason to rush. I had not considered that before. And yet it is the most Sage advice. Thank you so much for what you do for us.
Thank you for your comment! Feedback is really important. My son (who does the filming and editing) and I listen to our comments and take them very seriously. Again, thanks! Laurel @@imkivamarie
Wow I am sitting here in awe! I'm just a beginner but my family came to this country and all worked in the garment industry. Several of my Aunt's and Uncles rose through the ranks to be pattern makers and even run sewing rooms. How I wish I had them here today teach me. I'll never be anywhere close to you but I am enjoying learning and will always welcome insights from such industry gurus as Laurel.
Thank you Laurel for this excellent information. I have a coat that I love and now I’ll try to recreate it with your brilliant instructions. Thank you so much. I’m in Scotland x
Thanks, Eileen for your comment! There is a little Scottish blood in me 😇 Bell, Campbell, etc. Any help you need with this, please feel free to email me. I'm very interested in any problems people may have, as it helps me to provide better information. Laurel@CFashionEdu.com
Wonderful video, thank you, I have been using silk organza instead of paper, a little pricey though. I’m glad somebody else is doing this, I thought I’m the only one and felt a little guilty. Thank you again I learned a lot, and it’s appreciated.
Elsbeth, industry does this, not just you. But they don't use silk organza. It costs too much. The industry would only use silk organza if they were sewing couture garments for preferred customers - think $10,000 at least. And why would you feel guilty? No reason to feel guilty when you're just smarter than the rest. ; -)) You might be interested in some of the posts I have up on my blog. You can scroll down through its index to find topics you might like to read. laurelhoffmann.com/index-cfe-blog/ Thanks for your comments. Laurel
I've just purchased one of your books/courses and am planning on buying more in the future. I'm learning how to sew and taking a few private lessons from some ladies near me , so it's nice to have a fundamentals book on hand. Would you consider writing a book about copying ready made garments? starting from easy to most advanced garments? This is a skill that nobody is really teaching but i feel is very very valuable skill to learn. Thank you
Have done that. It's in "Copying a Man's Shirt." A man's shirt is probably the easiest garment to copy, plus it rounded out the series with instructions of both women's and men's clothing. laurelhoffmann.com/product/copying-a-mans-shirt/
Hello laurel, will this method work for a gathered sleeve. I’ve just bought a thrifted dress today with huge puff ball sleeves with the intention of taking a pattern off it. Came home and your video was top of my feed!
The best material to use is 36 inch wide light yellow tracing paper which is transparent, allowing one to also turn the paper over, make corrections, then turn it back over and erase the original marks. I buy 50 yard rolls, which is a lot, but I use it with students as well as personal use. Plastic doesn't work. One needs to be able to both see through the paper and to use material that doesn't slip. I tried white tracing paper once, but found it to be too opaque.
OOPS! This is industrial jargon. It means that the pattern's seam needs to be corrected because one side of the pattern's seam is longer than the other.
Yes, I do, Lisa. Thanks for the comment! I teach in my home-based studio here in Oreland. We are on the Lansdale/Doylestown Septa train route, if you don't drive. I pick students up from the train station, which is one mile from my home. If you do drive, we are in a cul-de-sac, with plenty of parking. Call 215 884 7065 for three-hour lessons. laurelhoffmann.com/product/certificate-program/
@@Rideurbikenkma She can bring her machine, if she wishes, but most of the lessons will be drafting and fitting. I have several machines. I usually have students use my featherweight because it's so easy to use, there is virtually no instruction needed. I had a 4-H club for my daughter before she would take sewing in school because I didn't want her learning home sewing. The girls were very young. I don't recommend this for anyone. I think the best age to start sewing lessons is at 13 years, although some children benefit from starting at an earlier age. laurelhoffmann.com/4-h-clover-club/
can you copy adidas garments? i have dozens of high quality lined tracksuit tops that are becoming very difficult to find. all of them are from late 80s and early 90s.
I bought it at the college store at Jefferson University. I know it's used at Parsons in their fashion classes, so it should be available in NYC. Many art supplies sell it. You want to buy 50 yard, 36 inch wide. It's not easy to find.
I'm sure I posted the coat up on Instagram. The final coat that I made is red knit that I bonded with fusing, given me by one of my students who was cleaning out her sewing supplies. Send me your email and I'll send you a picture. Everywhere I go I get compliments on that coat. But it is very lightweight, so there isn't much opportunity to wear it. It's more of a suit jacket, than a coat.
I’m so happy to know about your teaching ‘copying the garment’ by youtube in Korea☀️ thank you ☀️👍
You are most welcome! Thank you for your comment.
I just found you, and am now busy watching everything else on your channel! I spent covid learning to restore vintage machines. I got pretty good and now my favorite is the singer 401A. You are so good at teaching! Thank you for taking the time to make these videos.
My favorite sewing machine, Caroline, is my Featherweight. Made in 1941, it runs like a dream. I use it in the classroom to demonstrate various sewing techniques. If one of my students needs to practice, there is no problem with her using the machine as using it is idiot's delight. It's a scaled-down version of the workhorse lock-stitch machine used in the factories.
If one wants a computer sewing machine, I have no problem with that, but my little Featherweight sews forward (it's a pain to sew backward) and that's all one needs to make high-end clothing. To back-tack, start the seam with a couple of stitches, lift the foot, pull the fabric forward, and sew over the first couple of stitches. So who is it that needs a machine that reverses? :-))
I also have a 260 Pfaff - made in the 1950s - that is set up with an industrial motor - which I use at home. And I have a Necchi Q132A portable so as to have a machine that I can take into the classroom that zigzags.
I know you are wondering if I have an overlock (home sewers call it a serger) and yes, I do. I have a 686 Elna, which is a fantastic machine that sits on the shelf gathering dust. I rarely sew knits, although I did a lot of work with knits in the industry. Knits don't hold up and are a pain to fit as their stretch varies from knit to knit.
Thanks for commenting. Happy sewing! Regards, Laurel
I am happy to own a featherweight as well, and I LOVE it! It is convenient to be taken everywhere.
It is the freearm version (K 222). Perfect for sleeves and doll clothes!
My second favourite is a simple serger. I sew a lot of jerseys for me and my family and find it ridiculously easy with a serger. But I never use sloppy, slinky jerseys, and I always use light seam tape for the shoulder and the upper part of the armpit seams which I learned from examining and comparing shopped garments.
I love this woman. She's sassy and it's so entertaining. Not to mention she's a wealth of information.
I grew up with a lot of wonderful boy cousins. Blame them for my sass. :-))
Dear Reader, Laurel is the best teacher. I went to all of her classes in the early 2000s and my education is unparalleled! Miss you Laurel!
These vids are such jewels! Thank you both for the time and efforts put into them.
Thank you so much for your comment. We need to know if we are providing material people really need. Lrl
This is useful information. I'm an amateur and home hobbyist. I learned to sew when i was a little girl.
I learned to sew from a pattern as a teen in Home Ecc class. (That was a few years ago. )
I never had formal training yet i learned a lot along the way. I wish this information was available back when I started my journey.
I have no plans to be a professional designer, but even so, this knowledge will give a professional look to my homemade garments. I think looking good is important even for hobbyist.
I want to try my hand at making my own patterns. I'm hard to fit. I'm short and heavy. Understanding how garments are constructed makes sewing easier.
I alwsys have to adjust store bought patterns. My next step is to make my own.
Dear Barbara, Thanks so much for your comments.
The only reason I applied for work at Alfred Angelos years ago was because I needed the money. I thought then that the industry was "down and dirty." To my surprise I found the sewing MUCH easier to do, and the results far more professional. These days, although I know home-sewing I always use the procedures I learned in the industry. It took me 30 years to write my books, testing them as I did so with my continuing-professional- education students at first Jefferson and then Drexel Unversity. My students included design-room personnel sent in from Notations, Jones of NYC, Lilly Pultzer, etc. I asked all of my students to tell me what they wanted to learn, and to critique my writing. It was tough at first to listen to the criticism, but in time I welcomed it because it was so helpful. Seven of my eight books were written because my students suggested them. "Sewing Techniques from the Industry" is a combination of the sewing skills I taught the degree students before I moved over into continuing professional education. All is written for novices, step-by-step, with information for all figure types, including asymmetrical figures. The books were literally written in the classroom and on my kitchen table. I use my books when I sew.
The home-sewing patterns are full of mistakes. (For example: NObody trims seams in industry. The patterns are set up with varying seam allowances and then sewn on gauge.) At times I use home-sewing patterns, but I first go through them, checking and correcting the mistakes.That was what I did with patterns in the industry as well. The designer would pass her work on to me and, I would correct her patterns, have a sample sewn up, try it on to check the fit (I was also the fit model) and wear it in to show it to the boss. If he approved it, then I would grade the patterns so that the factory could mass produce it, usually cutting a 1000 garments.
I enjoyed this tutorial so much that I began reading through the comments I see you have written a book sewing techniques from the industry. I immediately went online to buy said book. As soon as I saw the cover I realized I already have it. Thank you so much these tips are invaluable.
Darn it. I thought I owned your book but I just double checked, and it's a different book with a similar title. I'm trying to locate how I can order your books. I will try another search, thank you.
Just go on my website, laurelhoffmann.com/. All eight books are listed and are for sale. Will ship immediately as for now all sales come right from my house.
"Sewing Techniques" is found on page laurelhoffmann.com/product/sewing-techniques-from-the-fashion-industry/
Thanks! Laurel
Your lesson on notch notations was fascinating. I'm an accountant and it reminded me of the particular notations we use when creating workpapers. Each industry has their own way. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
I started sewing clothing for myself last year and this is extremely informative! I have a few pieces in my closet that I would love to recreate. Thank you!
Thanks, for your comment!
That would be wonderful thank you. I’m a slow sewer and my wee dog is old and having seizures at the moment. I’ll make the pattern soon. I’ll keep you posted x
I sew slowly too. There is no reason to rush. If one takes one's time, correcting as one goes (my stitch rippers look worn out, and they are!) then when one is finished, the work is really good and the garment lasts for years. This SAVES time in the end. Lrl
I really like your philosophy and the time and care you take to make these videos to share your wealth of knowledge. I especially appreciate the reminder that there is no reason to rush. I had not considered that before. And yet it is the most Sage advice. Thank you so much for what you do for us.
Thank you for your comment! Feedback is really important. My son (who does the filming and editing) and I listen to our comments and take them very seriously. Again, thanks! Laurel @@imkivamarie
Wow I am sitting here in awe! I'm just a beginner but my family came to this country and all worked in the garment industry. Several of my Aunt's and Uncles rose through the ranks to be pattern makers and even run sewing rooms. How I wish I had them here today teach me. I'll never be anywhere close to you but I am enjoying learning and will always welcome insights from such industry gurus as Laurel.
Thank you Laurel for this excellent information. I have a coat that I love and now I’ll try to recreate it with your brilliant instructions. Thank you so much. I’m in Scotland x
Thanks, Eileen for your comment! There is a little Scottish blood in me 😇 Bell, Campbell, etc. Any help you need with this, please feel free to email me. I'm very interested in any problems people may have, as it helps me to provide better information. Laurel@CFashionEdu.com
Thank you for sharing your experience, Laurel. Your tips are pure gold!
Thanks!@@AndyMartinMakes
Your trick using a pencil tip to see if your pattern will sew is brilliant! Thank you!
Thank you, Carol.
Love that your videos are real time ! Your videographer does a great job too!
My videographer, who is also my son, was very happy when he read your comment.
Thank you for your videos, I'm learning a lot! And love your attitude!! Cheers! 😊
Thanks so much for your compliments! You've made my day.
Wonderful video, thank you, I have been using silk organza instead of paper, a little pricey though. I’m glad somebody else is doing this, I thought I’m the only one and felt a little guilty. Thank you again I learned a lot, and it’s appreciated.
Elsbeth, industry does this, not just you. But they don't use silk organza. It costs too much. The industry would only use silk organza if they were sewing couture garments for preferred customers - think $10,000 at least.
And why would you feel guilty? No reason to feel guilty when you're just smarter than the rest. ; -))
You might be interested in some of the posts I have up on my blog. You can scroll down through its index to find topics you might like to read. laurelhoffmann.com/index-cfe-blog/
Thanks for your comments. Laurel
Another great video! Thank you, Laurel!
As always, an excellent video!
Love your channel, personality and deep knowledge. Looking foward to cloning my favourite coat.
Sounds like a great project! Good luck!
I've just purchased one of your books/courses and am planning on buying more in the future. I'm learning how to sew and taking a few private lessons from some ladies near me , so it's nice to have a fundamentals book on hand.
Would you consider writing a book about copying ready made garments? starting from easy to most advanced garments? This is a skill that nobody is really teaching but i feel is very very valuable skill to learn.
Thank you
Have done that. It's in "Copying a Man's Shirt." A man's shirt is probably the easiest garment to copy, plus it rounded out the series with instructions of both women's and men's clothing. laurelhoffmann.com/product/copying-a-mans-shirt/
Thank you!
Hello laurel, will this method work for a gathered sleeve. I’ve just bought a thrifted dress today with huge puff ball sleeves with the intention of taking a pattern off it. Came home and your video was top of my feed!
Could you use clear material like what plastic bags are made of to trace from the garment so you can see through it easier?
The best material to use is 36 inch wide light yellow tracing paper which is transparent, allowing one to also turn the paper over, make corrections, then turn it back over and erase the original marks. I buy 50 yard rolls, which is a lot, but I use it with students as well as personal use. Plastic doesn't work. One needs to be able to both see through the paper and to use material that doesn't slip. I tried white tracing paper once, but found it to be too opaque.
What does "the seam doesn't sew" mean?
OOPS! This is industrial jargon. It means that the pattern's seam needs to be corrected because one side of the pattern's seam is longer than the other.
Laurel, you are such a gift! I see you're in Philly, me too. Do you still teach classes somewhere?
Yes, I do, Lisa. Thanks for the comment! I teach in my home-based studio here in Oreland. We are on the Lansdale/Doylestown Septa train route, if you don't drive. I pick students up from the train station, which is one mile from my home. If you do drive, we are in a cul-de-sac, with plenty of parking. Call 215 884 7065 for three-hour lessons. laurelhoffmann.com/product/certificate-program/
This makes me happy, I will share it with my daughter, who is learning to sew. Would she need to bring her own machine?
@@Rideurbikenkma She can bring her machine, if she wishes, but most of the lessons will be drafting and fitting. I have several machines. I usually have students use my featherweight because it's so easy to use, there is virtually no instruction needed. I had a 4-H club for my daughter before she would take sewing in school because I didn't want her learning home sewing. The girls were very young. I don't recommend this for anyone. I think the best age to start sewing lessons is at 13 years, although some children benefit from starting at an earlier age. laurelhoffmann.com/4-h-clover-club/
can you copy adidas garments? i have dozens of high quality lined tracksuit tops that are becoming very difficult to find. all of them are from late 80s and early 90s.
Laurel, please tell me where you got that brown tracing paper to buy? I'm struggling to find good tracing paper. Thanks for your help.
I bought it at the college store at Jefferson University. I know it's used at Parsons in their fashion classes, so it should be available in NYC. Many art supplies sell it. You want to buy 50 yard, 36 inch wide. It's not easy to find.
@@laurelhoffmann1594 Thank you! I'll definitely check it out.
Did i miss the coat after it was made? I'm in the bed with the flu and 103 temp. So it's possible i missed it.
Not clear on what you are asking. Email me at Laurel@CFashionEdu.com and I will reply.
I'm sure I posted the coat up on Instagram. The final coat that I made is red knit that I bonded with fusing, given me by one of my students who was cleaning out her sewing supplies. Send me your email and I'll send you a picture. Everywhere I go I get compliments on that coat. But it is very lightweight, so there isn't much opportunity to wear it. It's more of a suit jacket, than a coat.
Communist Commando is very happy with Laurel's teaching.
I'm always repairing my uniform!!!
It pays.
👏🏻👗
🥇👗
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻🧵