This reminds me of when I did this job on my car, although I only did bank 2 as that was the only side with bad block 93 values. Man, that was a scary job though, so much potential to ruin the whole engine. I’m happy for you that you’ve completed it successfully 👍
Thanks for sharing Keli. I hear the birds keeping watch over you. I'm one of them. How in the heck do you position yourself over the engine bay to access this kind of work. Maybe worth a separate video. Also, what diagnostic instruments do you use?
You are welcome Dan. I lean on the car from different positions whichever allows me to see what my hands are doing. My athletic physique has helped. This is a tough exercise to be honest. I use a cheap tool I bought off eBay the day I purchased the car, 5 years ago. I didn't know it would end up being so useful and effective. Google "VAG401 XTool". Here is an eBay link: www.ebay.com/itm/XTOOL-V-VAG401-Engine-Airbag-ABS-SRS-Professional-Diagnostic-Code-Scanner-For-VW/324102981197 Amazon: www.amazon.com/XTOOL-VAG401-Scanner-Actuation-Function/dp/B013LPC40E
I am in severe back pain from just watching this video. I think I’m just gonna hold me up the cash pay someone to do this job for me. I’ve had three back surgeries I don’t think I can do it. Great work I enjoyed watching the video. And now realize how this crazy system works. Thanks again from a 2006 A6 Avant owner. 190k. Gotta be done soon
It would be common sense to use a mirror to work from the back of engine if not removing it. Also the magnet tool is manufacturer number: 016121SCH03A and can be purchased from ecs tuning...
@@sergio1997chavez165 there is no part number for the mirror haha that's just a common item you can buy at any store that sells household items. Just find one that is small, versatile, and gives you lots of view. Perhaps a 12in by 12in rectangle shaped is plenty but which ever size you want.
I’m just wanting to replace the upper timing cover gaskets. Did you have to unbolt the exhaust. I can’t seem to access the two bolts to remove the SAR valves.
The upper timing chain covers are not sealed with gaskets but sealant. Check out my guide here on how to proceed: www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-s6-c6-platform-discussion-58/fixing-oil-spark-plug-other-engine-oil-leaks-3-2-a-2987300/
Hello friend. I have a few questions as I am making plans to do this and several other jobs on the car in the coming months. 1) Do you have a video where you do this job from start to finish to include all the steps (for just replacing the upper tensioners)? 2) Do I have to insert the crank locking tool or is that only necessary if I am trying to adjust the timing if it is off? If I take the valve covers off and I am able to lock the camshaft in place with the cam shaft locking tools on both sides, do I still need to lock the crank? I'm a little confused on that part. 3) I have watched the Edge Motors video (ruclips.net/video/ZAWsKChptvU/видео.html) at 35:42 and again at 52:25 and I see him spraying some type of "gasket sealer" as he calls it (he mentions it at 35:25) on the back of the new tensioner metal gasket before he places it back in the engine. Do you know what that is and did you use it? My guess is that you did not use it. By the way, your videos and write ups are AWESOME. I prefer when you talk though instead of the silent videos. LOL. I understand so much more when you talk us through it. Oh, and it makes me smile every time you push the button on your key fob to make the key pop out. It's like you are James Bond or something. LOL. Take care.
I apologize for the delay. I just received the notification about your comment. 1. I do not have a video from start to finish unfortunately. But the link in the description will take you to a forum thread where I explained everything from start to finish with additional pictures and short videos. 2. The official guide I followed recommended to use the crankshaft locking tool in addition to the camshaft locking tools. All three should be lined up to confirm your timing is correct. 3. The official manual I followed did not mention anything about a gasket sealer and I did not use any. I appreciate your kudos. English is a third language to me so I have been shy speaking out. Besides most of the jobs I recorded was my first time so you are watching me as I am figuring things out. I don't talk to avoid misleading you guys and I add texts in the video after I figure the whole thing out. I will try speaking a little more often.
Amazing.. I have to do this on my 2005 A6. Dreading it, even though I tooled up for it. No compression on Drivers side. Did you do a compression check on your engine before doing this repair?
No, I haven't performed a compression check. I knew the gaskets and seals were shot because of massive leaks and I obviously had wrong timing and possibly broken timing chain tensioners which turned out to be the case. If you have the right tools, this is not a very complicated job. The only problem is the lack of room but it is absolutely doable for a home DIYer.
@@ThatAfricanGuy I bought a bunch of 1/4 in hex drive T-30 bits, and nice flex 1/4 in hex ratchet, as well as some slip over magnetic sleeves. I think I need to pull the cams, or at least rotate them so that all valves close; at least per cylinder, and feed it compressed air with a gauge. Im fearing some bent valves, replace head etc, basically growing expense beyond what is reasonable. I have also 2007, and 2008 A6's. My 2005 ran great for 3 years when I bought it used. I love the 2005. All crazy questions... will I need new chains!? replace it all!? etc. 160K miles.
@@ryanmacewen511 I am not sure whether it is possible to adjust the timing without removing the camshafts guide frame. Timing was wrong on my passenger's side. When I tried to rotate the camshaft using the counter-holding tool, I jumped another tooth. I regretted doing it because I became anxious thinking I might have bent a valve. Fortunately that was not the case. I was able to adjust the timing after removing the cam girdle. Everything is documented in the thread. Here is how I pulled the camshafts guide frame (cam girdle) and the camshafts on the driver's side: ruclips.net/video/bLvgZwJ1x0k/видео.html
@@ryanmacewen511 As for the timing chains, it is impossible to replace them without removing the engine. I would suggest you get in there and try replacing the upper tensioners first. You would then be able to check the upper chains' state. They seem tough enough to me when I was doing the job.
I don't know why this area looked like so much room to work on, I remember resealing the two rear timing chain covers, what a PITA. This video comforted me in knowing if I had to do the timing chain tensioners in the future.
There isn't indeed a lot of room. I think the way I placed the camera makes it look roomier. However removing the harnesses at the back of the car does give you more room. I have put in the description a link to a forum thread I started on Audiworld showing how I proceeded with lots of pictures.
@@rubenmarine1 Yes it is when work on it is done the proper way. My upper timing chain tensioners failed because I was neglecting oil and filter changes. I haven't replaced the timing chains themselves yet. All is fine so far.
Hei, nice video. Help me out. After doing this, and when i crank car manually, driver side cams rotates like 2.5 rounds while passenger does only 2 ? What have i lost here?
@@jobas314 They should be turning together as shown in this video: ruclips.net/video/2r5Dx5ihtq0/видео.html Maybe you should replace the other tensioner too.
Just a quick helpful advice guys! I used plastic zip ties to hold the counter tightening tool while tightening up the 4 camshafts! The tool is quite slippery, I only used the plastic zip ties to hold the tool in its place, so I won't have the teeth coming off while tightening. Unfortunately, the video ends before showing up how he tightens them up, please refer to minute 12:24 to see what I am trying to say exactly.
Thanks for sharing your experience. The tool does indeed slip on one side. The trick is to reverse the pins on it. If they are slipping on the side you are working on, you have to unscrew them and place them on the other side of the tool.
the cam sprocket marks were not even aligned with the windows ?? the timing looks to be super off on bank 1 ? im very confused as to how the car ran after this service ? or even after you rotated the engine did the line up or no ???
@@ThatAfricanGuy damn thank you for the fast reply brother ! i only have 1 last question for you, i need to replace the driver side timing chain tensioner only, do i have to take off the passenger side valve cover and lock both cams on the passenger side aswell to change the driver side tensioner ? godbless you your the man happy new years !
@@aimized1460 It's better to do so for correct timing verification. You may discover that the passenger's side is on its way out as well, you never know. You want to lock the cams on both sides as well as the crankshaft at the bottom before installing the new tensioner for peace of mind. The additional videos below can be useful. Good luck and happy new year!!! Camshaft bolt sequence: ruclips.net/video/dFc9jxo0Hxg/видео.html Camshaft adjustment: ruclips.net/video/gdqsqCllNXk/видео.html
Had this done at dealership cost me $1,100... 4.2l tho think they had to take engine out.. Or am I wrong about that is it possible with out engine removal with 4.2?
Hey man great video ! Nice to see that it really doesn't seem that bad from your angle. Your camera angle are perfect ! You're the only one that we really see what's going on. One question though, has I understand, if the upper tensioner is bad, because the lower part is in good condition, there shouldn't have any issue timing the camshaft if it jumped a tooth right ? Like you don't need to remove the engine and remove all the timing component if it arises. Another question, if the upper tensioner go bad and skip some tooth, is it possible to have bent valve ? Like is it an interference engine ? One final question, is it a common maintenance you do on your car ? And is it common to fail ? Thanks !
I appreciate your comment. I believe they designed this engine such a way that the parts at the top are the ones that take most of the stress, to allow a simpler maintenance. I haven't come across any report of someone having failed lower timing chain tensioners. If the camshaft jumped one tooth, the lower chain system shouldn't be affected unless I'm mistaken.
As for the bent valve possibility because of incorrect timing, again, I have never heard of anyone reporting such a case on the 3.2. It seems to me that this engine was designed to avoid such a failure. I haven't confirmed that yet, but I think they have set the engine up to send the stress to the valve control system on top involving the roller rocker arms and the valve springs. People did report failed roller rocker arms and valve springs because of incorrect timing. Replacing these is much more easier than replacing a bent or broken valve.
Yes, these upper timing chain tensioners are known to fail. But I believe they do fail because of other factors and other engine parts failing to do their job. This engine uses oil pressure to continuously adjust timing. When the ECU detects a possibility of wrong timing, it makes the camshaft adjustment valves (solenoids) send oil at a regulated pressure to the camshaft adjusters and possibly the upper timing chain tensioners to quickly correct timing. In the event... 1. the engine is leaking oil and is no more holding proper oil pressure or 2. the camshaft adjustment valves are failing or 3. one/more camshaft adjuster(s) are seized and can no more rotate independently from the camshafts ...timing will remain wrong and the upper timing chain tensioners will take the hit and eventually fail.
You have to take the valve covers off. You need to lock the camshafts and the engine at TDC before removing the tensioners. There is a link in the description that will take you to a detailed thread.
Doing the whole cam girdle seal and this job on my A6 Avant, thanks for videos and write ups on Audi World. Will shout you out when I post my next video of it!
@@2024-x4o just the girdle seal and new timing tensioners, hardware, anaerobic sealant all costs around $500. Plus specialty timing tool and I have bought so many other new parts due to finding more problems. Right now, I am in about $1000. But I got my A6 Avant for only $1200 with 100k miles, so its ok and it definitely needed it. I just removed the engine completely. Will be posting a video soon on my page Kelisko has an amazing write up on Audiworld.com that explains everything in detail and full list of parts. However, I was able to find the same parts for a little cheaper. Either way, this is not the easiest job, but every 3.2 will need this service.
@@Mechani_Cole Thank you for your answer, will definitely check your page, youtube channel? Im about to buy a 2006 3.2 fsi a6 quattro, owner says he hasnt had the timing chain problem yet, it got 93k miles, just looking forward how much to save for that mandatory service lol
@@2024-x4o yes, on youtube. Can click my icon to bring you there. Its a great time to do a complete engine overhaul at the time of repair. These cars need carbon cleaning and mine definitely needs it once finished. If that one has never had a carbon cleaning it will need it. Many other seals, gaskets and hoses can be replaced. It adds up quick, but these are great engines. Definitely do not attempt any shortcuts, Audi will make you pay😅
Hi guys, I have a 2005 Audi 3.2 I replaced the upper timing chain tensioners on both banks and now the group 93 shows the next measurements: Phase position Intake Bank 1: -20.6 Phase position Intake Bank 2: -18.4 Phase position Exhaust Bank 1: -20.6 Phase position Exhaust Bank 2: - 21.4 I used the locking tools for camshafts and the locking bolt for cranckshaft. I followed the ALL DATA specifications. I removed everything out again and started from the beginning and I get the same measurements. What you guys think happened? I did a compression test to see if something happened with the valves and I've got between 11.5-12.5 bar. The car starts and runs fine for about 20 seconds and after starts ro rattle bad. Any thoughts? Thank you!
Sorry about the troubles. If you are sure everything is done right, you might want to have a look at your camshaft adjustment valves. Watch this: ruclips.net/video/gdqsqCllNXk/видео.html
@That African Audi DIYer thank you for your response. I already checked them all,and tested them and they work.None of them are stuck. I don't know what else to do Should I check the cranckshaft sensor?Do you think the cranckshaft sensor has something to do with these negative measurements?
@PASCA family It is not unlikely, but as far as I know, if the crankshaft position sensor is bad, the engine won't start. Are you using cheap aftermarket tensioners?
@PASCA family If the replacement tensioners are good, I can't think of anything else than damaged chain systems. You may have elongated chains or broken guides in the lower part.
No, the camshaft adjusters do not have a specific way to go in, but you should make sure not to swap them. One is marked exhaust and the other one intake. They should go back to their respective places. The lower part of the timing chain components can go bad, but I haven't had any issues past 200,000 miles. The weakest part that usually requires repair is the upper part where the tensioners fail.
I do not have experience with the 3.0T unfortunately so I cannot tell. However it is a very similar engine. Before thinking about replacing your tensioners I suggest you scan for faults and check the state of your timing. The ticking noise can be normal. Mine always ticked. You should worry when it rattles loudly.
@@ThatAfricanGuy I have vcds and everything checks out normal. I noticed the 2 upper guides are not sitting very tight on the mounting tabs. The procedure is almost identical aside from removing the super charger, thanks for the good video
Hi. I am using this one: www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/schwaben-led-telescoping-magnet-pick-up-tool/016121sch03a/ I just realized it's out of stock at that address but you could use the part number to find it in other stores. You will find more details here: www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-s6-c6-platform-discussion-58/fixing-oil-spark-plug-other-engine-oil-leaks-3-2-a-2987300/page2/ Stay safe out there...
That African Audi DIYer yes is gas. Pipe on the passenger side above the coils. I unwrapped and squeezed several times and now it has stopped dripping. strange
I don't think it does. But make sure you put the right cam adjuster onto the right camshaft. They are different. The exhaust cam adjuster has a metallic ring inside. I showed it in the video.
Man, in which country are you ? I would need you to change my timing chain on Q5 3.2 2010 x) Nice videos, you should create your audi shop if that's not already the case !
@@ThatAfricanGuy man honestly, if you come to Montreal, Canada, buy a small shop, put a few tools in, there are so many Audi owners looking for good price and honest mechanic, it's crazy.
Hi, thanks so much for the tuorial on audiworld, I'm a little at loss, I've changed both tensionners on each bank, the stock ones were dead, followed the exact procedure, now the car runs perfectly, no more rattle sound on cold start but my block 93 values are much worse than before, -9 and -10 on bank 1, which makes no sense to me, do you have any idea of how this is possible ? No CEL, no vcds codes nothing... Thanks
Sorry about that. Measuring block 93 values are indeed worrisome. This would be most likely caused by a job done wrong especially the cam adjusters installation and tightening part. You have to install new bolts and there is a specific way to tighten them as explained below. On the driver's side - bank 2, you place the pre-tensioning tool (or counter-holding tool) on the intake (top) cam adjuster, pre-tension to the inside of the engine while tightening the bolts on both cam adjusters starting with the intake to 40 Nm. On the passenger's side - bank 1, you place the pre-tensioning tool (or counter-holding tool) on the exhaust (bottom) cam adjuster, pre-tension to the outside of the engine while tightening the bolts on both cam adjusters starting with the exhaust to 40 Nm. Then you torque all 4 bolts to 80 Nm + 1/4 turn without the pre-tensioning tool (or counter-holding tool). More details on this page: www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-s6-c6-platform-discussion-58/fixing-oil-spark-plug-other-engine-oil-leaks-3-2-a-2987300/page9/#post25425624
@@ThatAfricanGuy hi, thanks for the quick answer, indeed that's exactly what I did, pre tensionning on intake bank 2 and exhaust bank 1 torquing 4 adjusters to 40nm then 80+90°. I was very suprised by those values, especially that I have no codes on engine controller. Is there any reset or adaptation to be done ?
also I did of course replace all the bolts. The weird thing is that I did lock the cranckshaft + both camshaft and after 2 turns everything lined up perfectly ?!?
J'ai oublié de préciser que je parle français, j'ai juste une petite derniere question, est-ce que tu as mis beaucoup de force pour tendre/ contraindre la chaine en serrant les camshaft adjusters à 40nm ? J'ai précontraint mais peut etre pas assez ?
@@clementfpv5054 Ah okay. Non, pas besoin de trop de force. Un point important est la direction vers laquelle tu appliques la tension. Ça doit toujours être vers le côté non-chauffeur. Est-ce que cela a-t-il été le cas ?
I had a fault code which returned every time I cleared all the engine faults. The description was "Camshaft position sensor xxx, implausible signal" where xxx is the number of the camshaft position sensor. I replaced the sensor first with no change so I thought of bad timing because of broken tensioners and it happened to be it. Symptoms: Long terrible chain noise at start up. Reduced engine performance. Terrible misfire at idle. I have put a link in the description leading to a forum thread where I explained everything in details.
You have to adjust timing before installing these back. The engine and the camshafts must be locked at TDC before doing this. At the beginning of the following video, you will see me remove the engine locking pin then the camshaft locking tools: ruclips.net/video/2r5Dx5ihtq0/видео.html I have put a link in the description. It will take you to a forum thread where I explained everything from beginning to end, with pictures and videos.
@@honestguysautomotive5421 Everything is in the thread but as a quick note, when the engine is at TDC you should be able to insert the engine locking pin all the way which will lock the engine and prevent it from rotating at all. In addition the camshaft threaded holes must also point upwards and be able to get locked with the camshaft locking tools on each side. But the engine pin part is the most important because that camshaft holes can point to the wrong direction if you skipped teeth.
Hello. It is not an easy job. You have to be mechanically inclined and have some experience. To know more, follow the link in the description of the video.
@@ThatAfricanGuy Alright thank you, I have located an used one with 100k km, owner say he had it inactive for a while (its a 80 year old owner) everything sounded right but the problem I found is that when he hit the gas padal at the start up, some black smoke started to appear at hitting the gas pedal in parking. Also the electronic handbrake is not working, are these some bad issues? Thank you very much for your answer
@@2024-x4o Is it a diesel of a petrol engine? Does the smoke keep coming out after the engine is warm? What happens when you try to activate the parking brakes? Do you know you have to press the brake pedal before it can be activated?
This reminds me of when I did this job on my car, although I only did bank 2 as that was the only side with bad block 93 values. Man, that was a scary job though, so much potential to ruin the whole engine. I’m happy for you that you’ve completed it successfully 👍
I appreciate your comment. I know what you mean. I am glad both of us made it. 👍
Thanks for sharing Keli. I hear the birds keeping watch over you. I'm one of them. How in the heck do you position yourself over the engine bay to access this kind of work. Maybe worth a separate video. Also, what diagnostic instruments do you use?
You are welcome Dan.
I lean on the car from different positions whichever allows me to see what my hands are doing. My athletic physique has helped. This is a tough exercise to be honest.
I use a cheap tool I bought off eBay the day I purchased the car, 5 years ago. I didn't know it would end up being so useful and effective. Google "VAG401 XTool".
Here is an eBay link: www.ebay.com/itm/XTOOL-V-VAG401-Engine-Airbag-ABS-SRS-Professional-Diagnostic-Code-Scanner-For-VW/324102981197
Amazon:
www.amazon.com/XTOOL-VAG401-Scanner-Actuation-Function/dp/B013LPC40E
I am in severe back pain from just watching this video. I think I’m just gonna hold me up the cash pay someone to do this job for me. I’ve had three back surgeries I don’t think I can do it. Great work I enjoyed watching the video. And now realize how this crazy system works. Thanks again from a 2006 A6 Avant owner. 190k. Gotta be done soon
I appreciate your comment. If you have back issues, you should definitely not do this yourself. I hope you get better soon. 🤞🏽
The one thumb down is a person who does not own an Audi. 😹 great work!
Hahaha 😂 Thanks.
This guy is clever AF with the mirror and the home made magnet tool to install the bolts.
It would be common sense to use a mirror to work from the back of engine if not removing it. Also the magnet tool is manufacturer number: 016121SCH03A and can be purchased from ecs tuning...
@@JustGameEverything what’s the part number on that green mirror?
@@sergio1997chavez165 there is no part number for the mirror haha that's just a common item you can buy at any store that sells household items. Just find one that is small, versatile, and gives you lots of view. Perhaps a 12in by 12in rectangle shaped is plenty but which ever size you want.
I have p0366 code. Engine have noise in 700-1100 rpm 🫢
10/10
Молодчина, своими руками, хорошая экономия денег.
Yes!
Thanks for sharing, I sold my A6 5 years ago. No one wanted to replace tensioner without dropping the engine. I wish I had this Video before.
Sorry about that...
Glad to see it can be done w/o removing the engine. All in all, how long did it take you? What was total parts cost if you remember?
@@victoryore4554 Details are in the description.
Do a video on the 2.0T timing chain and tensioner
I’m just wanting to replace the upper timing cover gaskets. Did you have to unbolt the exhaust. I can’t seem to access the two bolts to remove the SAR valves.
The upper timing chain covers are not sealed with gaskets but sealant. Check out my guide here on how to proceed: www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-s6-c6-platform-discussion-58/fixing-oil-spark-plug-other-engine-oil-leaks-3-2-a-2987300/
@That African Audi DIYer, you are a magician, great video! I read a few of your threads in Forums, thank you for all your help and instructions!
Hello friend. I have a few questions as I am making plans to do this and several other jobs on the car in the coming months.
1) Do you have a video where you do this job from start to finish to include all the steps (for just replacing the upper tensioners)?
2) Do I have to insert the crank locking tool or is that only necessary if I am trying to adjust the timing if it is off? If I take the valve covers off and I am able to lock the camshaft in place with the cam shaft locking tools on both sides, do I still need to lock the crank? I'm a little confused on that part.
3) I have watched the Edge Motors video (ruclips.net/video/ZAWsKChptvU/видео.html) at 35:42 and again at 52:25 and I see him spraying some type of "gasket sealer" as he calls it (he mentions it at 35:25) on the back of the new tensioner metal gasket before he places it back in the engine. Do you know what that is and did you use it? My guess is that you did not use it.
By the way, your videos and write ups are AWESOME. I prefer when you talk though instead of the silent videos. LOL. I understand so much more when you talk us through it. Oh, and it makes me smile every time you push the button on your key fob to make the key pop out. It's like you are James Bond or something. LOL. Take care.
I apologize for the delay. I just received the notification about your comment.
1. I do not have a video from start to finish unfortunately. But the link in the description will take you to a forum thread where I explained everything from start to finish with additional pictures and short videos.
2. The official guide I followed recommended to use the crankshaft locking tool in addition to the camshaft locking tools. All three should be lined up to confirm your timing is correct.
3. The official manual I followed did not mention anything about a gasket sealer and I did not use any.
I appreciate your kudos. English is a third language to me so I have been shy speaking out. Besides most of the jobs I recorded was my first time so you are watching me as I am figuring things out. I don't talk to avoid misleading you guys and I add texts in the video after I figure the whole thing out. I will try speaking a little more often.
@@ThatAfricanGuy Thanks brother! 👍🏽
Amazing.. I have to do this on my 2005 A6. Dreading it, even though I tooled up for it. No compression on Drivers side. Did you do a compression check on your engine before doing this repair?
No, I haven't performed a compression check. I knew the gaskets and seals were shot because of massive leaks and I obviously had wrong timing and possibly broken timing chain tensioners which turned out to be the case. If you have the right tools, this is not a very complicated job. The only problem is the lack of room but it is absolutely doable for a home DIYer.
@@ThatAfricanGuy I bought a bunch of 1/4 in hex drive T-30 bits, and nice flex 1/4 in hex ratchet, as well as some slip over magnetic sleeves. I think I need to pull the cams, or at least rotate them so that all valves close; at least per cylinder, and feed it compressed air with a gauge. Im fearing some bent valves, replace head etc, basically growing expense beyond what is reasonable. I have also 2007, and 2008 A6's. My 2005 ran great for 3 years when I bought it used. I love the 2005. All crazy questions... will I need new chains!? replace it all!? etc. 160K miles.
@@ryanmacewen511 I am not sure whether it is possible to adjust the timing without removing the camshafts guide frame. Timing was wrong on my passenger's side. When I tried to rotate the camshaft using the counter-holding tool, I jumped another tooth. I regretted doing it because I became anxious thinking I might have bent a valve. Fortunately that was not the case. I was able to adjust the timing after removing the cam girdle. Everything is documented in the thread. Here is how I pulled the camshafts guide frame (cam girdle) and the camshafts on the driver's side: ruclips.net/video/bLvgZwJ1x0k/видео.html
@@ryanmacewen511 As for the timing chains, it is impossible to replace them without removing the engine. I would suggest you get in there and try replacing the upper tensioners first. You would then be able to check the upper chains' state. They seem tough enough to me when I was doing the job.
I don't know why this area looked like so much room to work on, I remember resealing the two rear timing chain covers, what a PITA. This video comforted me in knowing if I had to do the timing chain tensioners in the future.
There isn't indeed a lot of room. I think the way I placed the camera makes it look roomier. However removing the harnesses at the back of the car does give you more room. I have put in the description a link to a forum thread I started on Audiworld showing how I proceeded with lots of pictures.
Miles or km pls ?
I did that around 260,000 Km. Now at 314,000 Km.
@@ThatAfricanGuy its reliable engine ?
@@rubenmarine1 Yes it is when work on it is done the proper way. My upper timing chain tensioners failed because I was neglecting oil and filter changes. I haven't replaced the timing chains themselves yet. All is fine so far.
Hei, nice video. Help me out. After doing this, and when i crank car manually, driver side cams rotates like 2.5 rounds while passenger does only 2 ? What have i lost here?
Did you replace the tensioner on both sides?
@@ThatAfricanGuy no, passenger side was good. But other one started to make sounds, so i changed only on drivers side. What do you think?
@@jobas314 They should be turning together as shown in this video: ruclips.net/video/2r5Dx5ihtq0/видео.html
Maybe you should replace the other tensioner too.
I have the same engine in a 2006 A4. Anyone know if you can also do this service on my car without pulling the engine?
Thank you for another great video 😌
I appreciate the positive feedback 😀
Wehry gut Brüder! !!!!Danke super
What a beast didn't even take the engine out.
😅
Make a video for the audi a6 V8 Quattro 4.2L cam tensioner replacement
Hello.
Je dois changer les dephaseurs côté passager. Je suis obligé de bloquer les axes cames des deux banks?merci d'avance
Salut! Oui il est conseillé de bloquer non seulement les arbres à cames des deux côtés mais aussi le vilebrequin.
@@ThatAfricanGuy Merci beaucoup
Just a quick helpful advice guys! I used plastic zip ties to hold the counter tightening tool while tightening up the 4 camshafts! The tool is quite slippery, I only used the plastic zip ties to hold the tool in its place, so I won't have the teeth coming off while tightening. Unfortunately, the video ends before showing up how he tightens them up, please refer to minute 12:24 to see what I am trying to say exactly.
Thanks for sharing your experience. The tool does indeed slip on one side. The trick is to reverse the pins on it. If they are slipping on the side you are working on, you have to unscrew them and place them on the other side of the tool.
@@ThatAfricanGuy yes, that's how I did, swapping the to pins, from one side to the other one, but using a zip tie was way better than without.
@@RomanTrollanski Thanks for the useful tip!
ㅈ
the cam sprocket marks were not even aligned with the windows ?? the timing looks to be super off on bank 1 ? im very confused as to how the car ran after this service ? or even after you rotated the engine did the line up or no ???
No alignment needed. Car ran great until I sold it 70,000 Km later.
@@ThatAfricanGuy damn thank you for the fast reply brother ! i only have 1 last question for you, i need to replace the driver side timing chain tensioner only, do i have to take off the passenger side valve cover and lock both cams on the passenger side aswell to change the driver side tensioner ? godbless you your the man happy new years !
@@aimized1460 It's better to do so for correct timing verification. You may discover that the passenger's side is on its way out as well, you never know. You want to lock the cams on both sides as well as the crankshaft at the bottom before installing the new tensioner for peace of mind. The additional videos below can be useful. Good luck and happy new year!!!
Camshaft bolt sequence: ruclips.net/video/dFc9jxo0Hxg/видео.html
Camshaft adjustment: ruclips.net/video/gdqsqCllNXk/видео.html
@@ThatAfricanGuy your truly a amazing person ! thank you sir i will lock both sides and you are correct more than likey
Had this done at dealership cost me $1,100...
4.2l tho think they had to take engine out.. Or am I wrong about that is it possible with out engine removal with 4.2?
The 4.2 is bigger. Room would be much limited. Engine removal would be needed. That quote to do the job at the dealership is fine. Not an easy job.
Hey man great video ! Nice to see that it really doesn't seem that bad from your angle. Your camera angle are perfect ! You're the only one that we really see what's going on. One question though, has I understand, if the upper tensioner is bad, because the lower part is in good condition, there shouldn't have any issue timing the camshaft if it jumped a tooth right ? Like you don't need to remove the engine and remove all the timing component if it arises. Another question, if the upper tensioner go bad and skip some tooth, is it possible to have bent valve ? Like is it an interference engine ? One final question, is it a common maintenance you do on your car ? And is it common to fail ? Thanks !
I appreciate your comment. I believe they designed this engine such a way that the parts at the top are the ones that take most of the stress, to allow a simpler maintenance. I haven't come across any report of someone having failed lower timing chain tensioners. If the camshaft jumped one tooth, the lower chain system shouldn't be affected unless I'm mistaken.
As for the bent valve possibility because of incorrect timing, again, I have never heard of anyone reporting such a case on the 3.2. It seems to me that this engine was designed to avoid such a failure. I haven't confirmed that yet, but I think they have set the engine up to send the stress to the valve control system on top involving the roller rocker arms and the valve springs. People did report failed roller rocker arms and valve springs because of incorrect timing. Replacing these is much more easier than replacing a bent or broken valve.
@@ThatAfricanGuy Thanks a lot for the fast reply ! And thanks for tip ! I appreciate it :D
Yes, these upper timing chain tensioners are known to fail. But I believe they do fail because of other factors and other engine parts failing to do their job. This engine uses oil pressure to continuously adjust timing. When the ECU detects a possibility of wrong timing, it makes the camshaft adjustment valves (solenoids) send oil at a regulated pressure to the camshaft adjusters and possibly the upper timing chain tensioners to quickly correct timing. In the event...
1. the engine is leaking oil and is no more holding proper oil pressure or
2. the camshaft adjustment valves are failing or
3. one/more camshaft adjuster(s) are seized and can no more rotate independently from the camshafts
...timing will remain wrong and the upper timing chain tensioners will take the hit and eventually fail.
@@ThatAfricanGuy how do you fix #3?
Do I have to take the valve covers off ? or can I just lock the pin and remove the covers and replace the tensioner
You have to take the valve covers off. You need to lock the camshafts and the engine at TDC before removing the tensioners. There is a link in the description that will take you to a detailed thread.
Doing the whole cam girdle seal and this job on my A6 Avant, thanks for videos and write ups on Audi World. Will shout you out when I post my next video of it!
How much did it cost you?
@@2024-x4o just the girdle seal and new timing tensioners, hardware, anaerobic sealant all costs around $500. Plus specialty timing tool and I have bought so many other new parts due to finding more problems. Right now, I am in about $1000. But I got my A6 Avant for only $1200 with 100k miles, so its ok and it definitely needed it.
I just removed the engine completely. Will be posting a video soon on my page
Kelisko has an amazing write up on Audiworld.com that explains everything in detail and full list of parts. However, I was able to find the same parts for a little cheaper.
Either way, this is not the easiest job, but every 3.2 will need this service.
@@Mechani_Cole Thank you for your answer, will definitely check your page, youtube channel?
Im about to buy a 2006 3.2 fsi a6 quattro, owner says he hasnt had the timing chain problem yet, it got 93k miles, just looking forward how much to save for that mandatory service lol
@@2024-x4o yes, on youtube. Can click my icon to bring you there.
Its a great time to do a complete engine overhaul at the time of repair. These cars need carbon cleaning and mine definitely needs it once finished. If that one has never had a carbon cleaning it will need it. Many other seals, gaskets and hoses can be replaced. It adds up quick, but these are great engines. Definitely do not attempt any shortcuts, Audi will make you pay😅
Hi guys,
I have a 2005 Audi 3.2
I replaced the upper timing chain tensioners on both banks and now the group 93 shows the next measurements:
Phase position Intake Bank 1: -20.6
Phase position Intake Bank 2: -18.4
Phase position Exhaust Bank 1: -20.6
Phase position Exhaust Bank 2: - 21.4
I used the locking tools for camshafts and the locking bolt for cranckshaft.
I followed the ALL DATA specifications.
I removed everything out again and started from the beginning and I get the same measurements.
What you guys think happened?
I did a compression test to see if something happened with the valves and I've got between 11.5-12.5 bar.
The car starts and runs fine for about 20 seconds and after starts ro rattle bad.
Any thoughts?
Thank you!
Sorry about the troubles. If you are sure everything is done right, you might want to have a look at your camshaft adjustment valves. Watch this: ruclips.net/video/gdqsqCllNXk/видео.html
@That African Audi DIYer thank you for your response.
I already checked them all,and tested them and they work.None of them are stuck.
I don't know what else to do
Should I check the cranckshaft sensor?Do you think the cranckshaft sensor has something to do with these negative measurements?
@PASCA family It is not unlikely, but as far as I know, if the crankshaft position sensor is bad, the engine won't start. Are you using cheap aftermarket tensioners?
@That African Audi DIYer I bought "INA" tensioners!I have seen other guys on RUclips using INA tensioners that's why I bought them.
@PASCA family If the replacement tensioners are good, I can't think of anything else than damaged chain systems. You may have elongated chains or broken guides in the lower part.
hi
Hi, need any help?
Great video! I read a few of your threads in Forums, thank you for all your help and instructions!
Glad it was helpful!
Ill just make that 69 likes ;)
Those cam gears don’t have keys or a specific way to go in? Also what about lower part of timing chain components? Those don’t go bad??
No, the camshaft adjusters do not have a specific way to go in, but you should make sure not to swap them. One is marked exhaust and the other one intake. They should go back to their respective places. The lower part of the timing chain components can go bad, but I haven't had any issues past 200,000 miles. The weakest part that usually requires repair is the upper part where the tensioners fail.
@@ThatAfricanGuy cool thanks for taking the time to reply
@@Schnippen_Schnappen1 You are welcome.
Even the birds cheered you on as soon as you took the pin out. Nature is incredible :)
😅 I didn't even pay attention myself.
I bought a 2010 A6 3.0T that has a ticking noise and hoping replacing these tensioners will fix it. Do you need cam locking tools to do this job?
I do not have experience with the 3.0T unfortunately so I cannot tell. However it is a very similar engine. Before thinking about replacing your tensioners I suggest you scan for faults and check the state of your timing. The ticking noise can be normal. Mine always ticked. You should worry when it rattles loudly.
@@ThatAfricanGuy I have vcds and everything checks out normal. I noticed the 2 upper guides are not sitting very tight on the mounting tabs. The procedure is almost identical aside from removing the super charger, thanks for the good video
@@KenyonPayne Oh okay. Are you referring to the upper timing chain tensioners by saying upper guides?
Hello what kind of magnetic tool you use for the bolts ?
Hi. I am using this one: www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/schwaben-led-telescoping-magnet-pick-up-tool/016121sch03a/
I just realized it's out of stock at that address but you could use the part number to find it in other stores.
You will find more details here: www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-s6-c6-platform-discussion-58/fixing-oil-spark-plug-other-engine-oil-leaks-3-2-a-2987300/page2/
Stay safe out there...
Did you have any problems with gas leakage at the plug between the main hose and the pipes leading to the injectors?
No I did not. Is yours leaking gas ?
That African Audi DIYer yes is gas. Pipe on the passenger side above the coils. I unwrapped and squeezed several times and now it has stopped dripping. strange
@@sjaravete Maybe you were installing it incorrectly. Good news it has stopped leaking. 👍
hi there, i am also doing it on my a6, quick question does the cam adjuster position matter, the cams are locked
I don't think it does. But make sure you put the right cam adjuster onto the right camshaft. They are different. The exhaust cam adjuster has a metallic ring inside. I showed it in the video.
@@ThatAfricanGuy thank you so much, your videos are awesome!!!
I appreciate 🙂
Man, in which country are you ? I would need you to change my timing chain on Q5 3.2 2010 x)
Nice videos, you should create your audi shop if that's not already the case !
I appreciate your message. I am in Togo and I don't have a shop. I am a DIYer, not an expert lol 😅
@@ThatAfricanGuy man honestly, if you come to Montreal, Canada, buy a small shop, put a few tools in, there are so many Audi owners looking for good price and honest mechanic, it's crazy.
That's a shame. I just love it here and am not planning on moving 😅
@@ThatAfricanGuy okok 😅 I moved to Canada myself form other country so of one day you think about this, DM me 💵💰 ☺️
@@bbrrrrr6553 LOL OK buddy 😉
Hi, thanks so much for the tuorial on audiworld, I'm a little at loss, I've changed both tensionners on each bank, the stock ones were dead, followed the exact procedure, now the car runs perfectly, no more rattle sound on cold start but my block 93 values are much worse than before, -9 and -10 on bank 1, which makes no sense to me, do you have any idea of how this is possible ?
No CEL, no vcds codes nothing...
Thanks
Sorry about that. Measuring block 93 values are indeed worrisome. This would be most likely caused by a job done wrong especially the cam adjusters installation and tightening part. You have to install new bolts and there is a specific way to tighten them as explained below.
On the driver's side - bank 2, you place the pre-tensioning tool (or counter-holding tool) on the intake (top) cam adjuster, pre-tension to the inside of the engine while tightening the bolts on both cam adjusters starting with the intake to 40 Nm.
On the passenger's side - bank 1, you place the pre-tensioning tool (or counter-holding tool) on the exhaust (bottom) cam adjuster, pre-tension to the outside of the engine while tightening the bolts on both cam adjusters starting with the exhaust to 40 Nm.
Then you torque all 4 bolts to 80 Nm + 1/4 turn without the pre-tensioning tool (or counter-holding tool).
More details on this page: www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-s6-c6-platform-discussion-58/fixing-oil-spark-plug-other-engine-oil-leaks-3-2-a-2987300/page9/#post25425624
@@ThatAfricanGuy hi, thanks for the quick answer, indeed that's exactly what I did, pre tensionning on intake bank 2 and exhaust bank 1 torquing 4 adjusters to 40nm then 80+90°.
I was very suprised by those values, especially that I have no codes on engine controller.
Is there any reset or adaptation to be done ?
also I did of course replace all the bolts.
The weird thing is that I did lock the cranckshaft + both camshaft and after 2 turns everything lined up perfectly ?!?
J'ai oublié de préciser que je parle français, j'ai juste une petite derniere question, est-ce que tu as mis beaucoup de force pour tendre/ contraindre la chaine en serrant les camshaft adjusters à 40nm ? J'ai précontraint mais peut etre pas assez ?
@@clementfpv5054 Ah okay. Non, pas besoin de trop de force. Un point important est la direction vers laquelle tu appliques la tension. Ça doit toujours être vers le côté non-chauffeur. Est-ce que cela a-t-il été le cas ?
what were the codes?
I had a fault code which returned every time I cleared all the engine faults. The description was "Camshaft position sensor xxx, implausible signal" where xxx is the number of the camshaft position sensor. I replaced the sensor first with no change so I thought of bad timing because of broken tensioners and it happened to be it. Symptoms: Long terrible chain noise at start up. Reduced engine performance. Terrible misfire at idle. I have put a link in the description leading to a forum thread where I explained everything in details.
Can i adjust the timimg after I install those parts? Or do I have to set the timimg before I take it apart?
You have to adjust timing before installing these back. The engine and the camshafts must be locked at TDC before doing this. At the beginning of the following video, you will see me remove the engine locking pin then the camshaft locking tools: ruclips.net/video/2r5Dx5ihtq0/видео.html
I have put a link in the description. It will take you to a forum thread where I explained everything from beginning to end, with pictures and videos.
@@ThatAfricanGuy ok thank you very much
@@ThatAfricanGuy oh and how will I know when its TDC?
@@honestguysautomotive5421 Everything is in the thread but as a quick note, when the engine is at TDC you should be able to insert the engine locking pin all the way which will lock the engine and prevent it from rotating at all. In addition the camshaft threaded holes must also point upwards and be able to get locked with the camshaft locking tools on each side. But the engine pin part is the most important because that camshaft holes can point to the wrong direction if you skipped teeth.
@@ThatAfricanGuy ok got it..thank you
Hello, can I do it myself? Cost? Thank you
Hello. It is not an easy job. You have to be mechanically inclined and have some experience. To know more, follow the link in the description of the video.
@@ThatAfricanGuy Thank you for the answer, do you recommend me to buy an Audi A6 3.2 Quattro than any other model /version?
@@2024-x4o Yes, the A6 3.2 is stable. There are known issues but as long as you can afford the maintenance costs, it is a good car to own.
@@ThatAfricanGuy Alright thank you, I have located an used one with 100k km, owner say he had it inactive for a while (its a 80 year old owner) everything sounded right but the problem I found is that when he hit the gas padal at the start up, some black smoke started to appear at hitting the gas pedal in parking. Also the electronic handbrake is not working, are these some bad issues? Thank you very much for your answer
@@2024-x4o Is it a diesel of a petrol engine? Does the smoke keep coming out after the engine is warm? What happens when you try to activate the parking brakes? Do you know you have to press the brake pedal before it can be activated?