How To Build Two Car Garage With Storage Loft And Stairs - Building Education Series Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- www.homebuildi... Visit our website today to learn more about garage framing, concrete foundations and attic storage. In this video I will provide you with a few examples of how a garage building project like this might be framed. This is a 20 foot by 24 foot two car garage with an upper level and the exterior walls are 12 feet tall.
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I have a viewer who found a mistake in the video. When talking about the garage floor sloping I mentioned it should slope about 1/8 or 1/4 inch and I should have said 1/8 or 1/4 inch per foot. Meaning that in about 24 feet it would drop 6 inches with a 1/4 of an inch slope. Thanks to the viewer for pointing this out.
well, Greg, I would think you would not have put those blocks between the rafters sitting on top of the walls as it make venting the roof difficult if not impossible. Maybe, you address this later, but I haven't found the next one. Otherwise good job.
gregvancon, what is a realistic height of the knee wall above the joists to keep code compliant for traditional rafter/joist/prescriptive build framing? Most details call for the ceiling joists and rafters to be fastened together to complete the site built truss. Is there an IBC or IRC section that would reference the design you present in this video?
If that needed to be explained, then they have no business building a garage. lol.
Thank you for making these videos. I am 14 and I am looking to make my own man cave up in the woods on my property. That is a dream of mine and my neighbor is getting a mill so I have been cutting trees down to mill up. These videos have really been helping me get an idea on how to start
How's that been coming along man?
Howdy chute dogger. Any updates on the man cave?
What a great video! I’m not a framer or even a construction worker, but I enjoy learning about other trades. That’s the first time I’ve ever heard of “fire blocking” and appreciated the added explanation. 👏👍👍
Awesome! Thank you!
Thank you for sharing this video, As component designer for trusses and prefab wall panels, I can tell you this is very well done. Thanks for sharing the wealth of knowledge.
You are very welcome.
As soon as I saw the location of the stairs, I believed there would be a code violation for head room above. I can see you’ve given this great thought and attention. There are several conditions that I would look at to solve this while in the planning stage. I’m sure you have considered them too.
I would have solved this issue before presentation, even though this is hypothetical
headroom usually only applies to living areas. Garages and storage areas are not allowed to have living areas in many places.
I didn't solve the problem in this video, because I wanted to show viewers the problem but did in the next video. ruclips.net/video/TAi27df86Zk/видео.html
Most garages have minimum head room requirements and good point about storage areas. Verify with your local building department what these areas will be designated as, because storage areas usually require stronger structural framing assembly methods.
Bought a house that used to be the small headquarters for the surrounding trailer park and it has a large parking lot included with a big spot next to it perfect for a garage. This is a perfect design for what I had in mind
If I’m being honest, the was you secured the floor to the walls might work but I don’t trust it personally! I would have made the floors own support down to the concrete per stud, so it would be two 2x4s for the bottom making the walls 8 inches deep instead of 4 (possible room for hidden cabinets or extra insulation if wanted) but the “attic” floor would be more supported. Just my opinion but great video and demonstration!
I'm building one of these right now, Greg. Great video as always.
Awesome and keep watching.
Can you let us know what it costs in materials?
Wow....I'm thinking about building a very similar garage on my property in Las Vegas.....I'll be watching your videos obsessively. I plan on subcontracting a lot of the work, including the foundation and framing. I appreciate your advice.
Awesome! Thank you!
Collar ties are suppose to be down 1/3 the length of the rafter in my state. If you want it open then you need to make a structural ridge with proper support on each end.
I LOVE your videos 👍I watch them once to learn..and then I watch them again so I can take a nap...because your voice is so soothing ✌❤💤
That's awesome and I will have to try that when I can't sleep.
It seems odd to use balloon framing. Platform framing is easier, no fire blocks, the floor system is bearing on the walls. Holding everything up with bolts just seems weird....There are a few ways to brace the structure differently to accommodate this. That being said, nice video presentation pretty good stuff.
Glad you liked it and there are other ways to build this. I also agree with you on the lag bolts and always check with and engineer before building anything like this.
Building this with platform framing would require a ridge beam in most cases, right?
I would like to see more on this series.
Another vote counted.
Very informative. Please make more
Bro some of the best instructions out what an awesome channel
I appreciate that!
Thanks for the video, I noticed your blocking between the rafters were cut bevel and flush with the slope of the rafters,no strapping on the rafters and the plywood nailed directly onto the rafters ,this will prevents air circulation to come in from the soffit above the insulation and out the vent ridge cap the way it should be.
Especially with a cathedral ceiling like this. Unless you live where there’s no winter this could cause serious damage by trap condensation into the roof.
You're welcome and yes, ventilation, insulation and other structural components might be necessary if finishing walls and ceilings.
So many framing questions answered, thanks for these videos!
Glad you like them and keep learning.
Love these! Thank you for taking the time to do these videos.
You are so welcome!
About 7 years ago I built a 16' x 24' two story barn type garage. By myself.
And I decided to put the stairs outside along the back end of the garage.
This way it didn't take away from any of the indoor space.
Got you covered. ruclips.net/video/AZpqGZsq9Oo/видео.html
Thank you in advance. I'm going to be so busy fixing all the do it yourselfers messing it up. I fix what so called professionals build
Thank you for the layout and video. Hope to see more in the series!
More to come!
Well explained!
Nice video. I really appreciate the initiative. This way even someone like me may be able to build a shed. Thanks a lot. Hope to see more like this.
So nice of you
Cool! Looking forward to the series. I’m interested to know why you decided to go with ballon framing rather than platform?
If he had platform framed it, the knee walls upstairs might not be strong enough to resist the outwards force of the rafters and they could kick out. Whereas continuous studs allow that outwards force to be transferred to the floor joists also serving as rafter ties in this case.
@@mikec7373 Ugh, I made a really good drawing to explain it but RUclips doesn't let me post the link
I will be addressing this problem in a future video. I would also suggest going to the website and watching more engineering and roof framing videos.
@@gregvancom Watched your vaulted ceiling vid. So, it would need a ridge beam. Got it, Thanks
Yes please more please
def want to see more!
Vote counted.
I built a garage similar to this. I'm in California, so the weather is mild for uplift and such but we have to build for earthquake's. Mine was 30' wide and 33' long. Walls were 10 feet tall, and had a 8:12 pitch. Walls were 2x6, headers were 6x8's ( overkill), had a gluelam ridge beam(6"x24") overkill again. Posts holding up the gluelam we're 6x6s. Rafters were 2x12 #1 grade. Simpson strong walls on either side of the front garage door opening. I have 3 garage doors. The 2 side garage doors are 8'x8' and the center garage door is something like 9'-4". The garage door header is a 6"x12" lvl beam and it rests on the 2 strong walls at either end and two 6x6 posts that are on either side of the middle garage door. I have a bathroom and a room on the lower level so I have a upper lofted section above. From floor to roof sheeting is 20 feet tall. I wanted a car lift so I didn't have a full length upper floor. If I had to do it over again I would have made is 35' wide and 40' long. If you have big trucks, you need the extra length .
Thanks for sharing you project and opinions with us.
Great content, as usual.
Glad you like it and our other videos.
How sturdy is the 2nd floor if it’s held up with just lag bolts?
@10:18 Something I find interesting with this design is that the wall studs don't line up with the rafters. I was told lining them up is a better way of transferring load from the roof to the foundation. Any science or reasons why someone shouldn't build with them lining up? Thanks for this series!
Theres 2 top plate on the wall that spread the load evenly from the rafter... Most rafters are 24 oc( on center) and walls are 16 oc...
Yes, line them up if you can, but some builders worry more about sheathing layout. For example if you line up rafters with wall studs, the roof sheathing or wall sheathing could require more plywood. If you can make it work then great, but it's never been a big concern of mine with double top plates in wall framing.
Also most efficient for running duct work for heating n cooling
@@gregvancom I'd imagine the weight is distributed well enough over the whole plate length
Could you use 2x8 rafters? And what did you use for your garage door header? Love the videos, I need to send you some of the projects I've done over the years by watching your videos.
In some areas you could probably use 2 x 6 for rafters and I'm using a 4x12 header in the video, but it's only used as an example and in your area, you might need a larger one.
This was facinating! Wow 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
With the absense of rafter ties, what is the likelyhood of exterior walls bulging/leaning outward over time in a design like this? Obviously meaning the two walls upon which the rafters rest.
Yes!! I Want To Learn More.
Thanks for the video man very helpful
No problem 👍
Hey Greg, I loved the video and the wealth of information it provided. Any chance you can let me know how much the material/labor cost of something like that would be in your city and which city you live in. That way I can have a understanding to scale with pricing in my area for a general estimate of how much this project would cost. Thanks again!
No, I can't provide estimates and would suggest contacting a builder in your area.
Costs vary wildly, today that would probably cost you around four times what it did two years ago when wood was pretty cheap, go back another ten years and wood was expensive because the pine beetle was hitting the wood market in some regions.
There's no real point in an estimate right now.
Is there any reason the long sides get framed all the way to the ends and the short sides get fit inside the long sides, as opposed to having the short sides go to the ends?
😮😮 das ist statistisch sehr bedenklich. Ein sparrendach drückt am Fußpunkt nach aussen. Horizontale Schubkraft. Ein pfettendach macht das nicht!!!👍🇩🇪
Why would you put 2x10 for gutter boards and fly rafters? also Why would you put all the blocking in between rafters at the top of the walls? Shouldnt there be be a gap so baffles can be used to vent the roof ?. Thanks
I will be going over ventilation and showing different ways to make fascia smaller in future videos in hopes of answering your questions. I'm creating a list of possible videos to be made in this series based off of questions from viewers like you.
I love this video and I really want to build one of these to actually live in as my main home since I’m single with no kids. On the stairwell problem, couldn’t you simply invert the stairwell?
Yes, you can.
This is so great thank you!
Glad you liked it!
Thank you great information and visuals
You're very welcome.
Hi I do have a two bedroom house and my attic height is 5 ft 3 in I would like to know how to extend my attic to 8 ft what material should I use do I need braces for my attic or for the inside of the house so nothing will collapse the basement is block cement all around the inside is a two bedroom living room dining room kitchen and bathroom the Attic the size is 40 ft by 35 would it be possible to extend the Attic for a bedroom and install a bathroom of course a shower thank you God bless
I wonder if most building codes would require the collar ties to be lower or a structural ridge, to prevent the walls from spreading?
I was wonering if these colar ties are enough as well, as floor joists are far from the rafters?
@@jptanev Well, you bring up a good point, something I didn't think about. The floor joists together with the balloon framing will provide a lot of stiffness to resist the roof wanting to spread the walls. Maybe that will make it work.
Always check with your local building authorities and engineers to see if this can be built in your areas. Don't confuse collar ties with rafter ties and you can lower then if needed. The floor can prevent the walls from spreading, but if you're worried, then add a structural ridge beam.
@@gregvancom Thanks for your reply
Great Channel very informative
Much appreciated and thanks for the kind words.
Thanks Greg, new to your excellent channel, time to 'binge' watch :D, have you done any ICF?
We have to build a 1 car garage inset into the hill directly behind our townhouse. Any designs for a garage like that?
I built 20 x 35 garage by my self the concrete and trusses the whole works
I've done it also and hopefully we can provide a little inspiration for others.
Great video. Very helpful.
Glad to hear it!
I would be tempted to hand seven IBC containers under the loft and install a wet room/ bathroom above where the stairs begin going up. Turn the containers into a contained waste treatment unit. That way I could live above the garage and still have a bathroom without attaching it to the sewer system of the house.
Go for it.
I don't like balloon framing. You could do this cheaper by doubling up the studs with a shorter stud next to each long stud and rest the loft joist on the short stud. It would be stronger as you would have mass carrying load instead of lag bolts (fasteners) carrying load, and 2x4s may be less expensive than so many joist hangers.
You don't see that everyday and I will be providing a few more ways in future videos.
I agree. I've done it both ways, and balloons end up a time suck.
How long can those 2x6's be before sagging is an issue? I guess it depends on the load as well.. But I imagine they begin to sag at some point
You can usually find the information you're looking for on rafter span charts that can be found on the Internet.
This is a great video
Glad you enjoyed it.
i love this...
So this is pretty much what I want to do but only want about 10-12’ of it lofted overlooking the rest of the garage. I do want the sides that are too short to stand under used for storage. I’m wondering what is the useable space? 8’ down the middle
Yes! I enjoy your videos thanks! - I have sand where I live and have leaned to just build on top of the ground, even my decks after 12 years all sank unevenly. So a large shed I was planning to put up on blocks, any advice would be appreciated
If you don't have stable soil, I would contact your local building department to find out if you need to dig deeper footing or add something to the soil to make it stronger.
Thank you
You're welcome
Wow I think the biggest thing in your video you should emphasize is it depends on your municipal building codes A building this size here would require permits and inspection if you go through all of the effort to build it and the inspector come and says it doesn’t pass
check your codesTalk to the inspectors it’ll save you a lot of time headaches and money
On a sidenote that’s little problem is easy, make your top landing bigger It should also allow you to park to larger vehicles
These are only meant to provide examples for construction and local building officials and engineers should always be consulted, before building something like this.
how about..... two car garage with a basement that has a car lift on the first floor? is it feasible ?
Thank you for making these videos Greg! They are very helpful.
Quick question: Since this model uses a ridge board instead of a ridge beam, wouldn't the roof create too much outward force on the walls?
If structurally designed correctly, the ridge beam will prevent the rafters from creating outward pressure on the lower walls the rafters sit on.
@gregvancom Ahh I see. I mistakenly thought this was a nonstructural ridge *_board_* . But I now see that it is suppprted by the gable studs, making it a structural ridge _*beam*_, correct?
...
Would this same roof design still be possible with:
1) 4' half walls for the second story instead of the tall studs you used here? (so 2nd floor joists would be sitting on top of the first floor instead of lagged into the long studs)
2) half loft/2nd story & half cathedral ceiling instead of the full 2nd story?
@@andrewschutt2827 As I understand it's just a board and not a ridge beam, since there are no support columns at both ends. The outward pressure is resisted by the floor joists / rafter ties 3 ft below. It works because the studs are monolithic, (aka balloon framing), so there is no hinge point like in platform framing
What might be a typical price to build one of these yourself in the North East in 2023? Thank you
Anybody who is building their own garage is likely going to have a pickup truck. The average pickup truck is between 18 and 22 feet long. Even if your truck does fit in this garage, it will be just barely with no room for getting to the other side of the truck without opening the garage door.
I would suggest making your garage deeper. 30 ft. That will give you plenty of space for stairs and also an acceptable amount of space to walk around the truck to get around inside without having to open the door.
Good points about getting in and out of vehicles, even if they aren't large trucks.
Una pregunta que programa usas portas
Is it possible to raise an existing 20x20 normal height garage to make this?
Yes, but some work might need to be done to the concrete foundation.
You could raise the existing structure and concrete block up the foundation to the new height.
Do you have a rough guess if needed on lumber material needed ?
No
Dumb question here. Say you're framing an 8 foot section. Then your studs will be at 16, 32, 48, 64, 80 and 96 OC. Since that last stud is at 96 OC if you put it on center it would extend 3/4" past the top and bottom plates. In that case do you shift the stud back 3/4" so that it stays flush within the top and bottom plates?
Yes, framing spaces between wall framing studs can be smaller than 16 inch on center spacing.
@gregvancom thanks for this. Then when you start another section, should there be a 15.25" gap before placing another stud? That is, the next connecting section would not have a stud that lines up with the top and bottom plates to start but instead the first stud gets shifted over by 15.25" so as to resume the 16" oc?
Do I need 2x12 for a loft like structure in my shop or can I use 2x10 or 2x8? 13ft wide x 16ft deep. Where and what changes the framing needs? Thank you for this great video.
Depends on your joist spacing. Look up a floor joist span table. At 16" spacing, you could span up to 14' with a 2x10
@@Bournefort thank you! Floor joist span table is a new thing to me! Will definitely play with that.
what are using for floor joist? I would guess for most garages you wont be able to use regular lumber without using a post due to the span. so im guessing I joist or floor trusses?
I do have another video in this series on different floor framing. ruclips.net/video/o_-WrZIPnjM/видео.html
great job greg. do u have a material list for this . i am 6 foot tall u are so right about the stairs . never would have thought about that . ready for video 2. do u have material list for this.
I don't know if I will make one, but you can probably pause the video and count every piece of lumber to make your own list.
Greg, what size of the concrete footing should be poured for a garage built on a concrete stem wall (8 inches wide - for a 8" log wall) where there will be 'bonus room" above using "attic trusses" -- if the poured concrete stem wall is 8" wide should the footer be twice the width or larger -- of course the soil bearing would need to be known? But as a general rule would a 2x width for the footer be the best size on average? And how thick would the concrete footer be -- 8" to 12"?
I can't provide you with the exact sizes, but single story structures in our area might require a 1 foot wide by 1 foot deep footing.
Greg, would you elaborate on the "problem" you mentioned @ 9:32 with "shear panel"?
And is there a reason for not placing the ceiling rafters directly on the wall framing instead of using a ledger board, with bolts and hangers?
These videos are part of a series I would suggest watching or go to the video description area to find specific videos like the one on floor framing.
I like skillion roof. Could you make video for skillion roof type?
It's on the list.
I don't recall seeing 'readily available' 2x12 20 ft long. So, how do you make the floor joists?
Then maybe a floor beam located at half the floor joist span. I think I have other videos on floor framing in the playlist for this video series.
I like it, but I’m concerned it’s not enough lateral support. Not sure how you fix that without loosing headroom
Structural shear panel and hold downs with lots of building hardware is my guess. I'm not an engineer, but will be making a video about things you can do to add strength to these designs.
I’m watching this knowing dam well that I’m never going to build something this magnificent😂
Awesome!!! and I do it also.
How tall is it from floor to bottom of top floor? I'm looking at doing this same concept on my 18x20.
Also, Would anything change if i brought my exterior walls to 16' tall. And had my top floor at 10' from the ground. Thanks in advance
These are only examples of this type of construction and you might need to contact an engineer to answer your questions.
Could you so something like this on a slightly bigger scale? Say a 28X40? What’s the ceiling height in this build?
I would think so, just might require engineering plans.
What changes/modifications would I need to make if I want a full height 2nd story rather than a loft? (Aside from the obvious longer studs.)
There should be a link in the video comment area to the videos you're looking for.
could you do a video on the floor system between stories
Provide more details of you need if this doesn't help. ruclips.net/video/dqE3HFUUzpo/видео.html
What did you use for the second-floor floor joists? Nice job!!
You might need larger joist and should check with your engineer for lumber sizes in your area. I used 2x12 select grade lumber in model.
Do lag screws connecting ledger to wall stud have to be screwed to every wall stud?
Usually, but it will vary on the size of the floor, building, design and other structural engineering requirements. You will need to contact an engineer or local building authorities before building a project like this in your area.
How would you suggest I support a 20f width x 40 ft long x 10 ft height? Built similarly like this?
I don't see why you can use the examples in this video. Provide more details about what you're trying to support if this didn't answer your question.
Awesome video, and timely for me as I am hoping to build a very similar garage (with a 10’ wide shed addition) later this year. Recently watched a Weyerhaeuser video on ridge board vs. ridge beam amd am now worried about roof weight and wind forcing the walls out. Do you think balloon framing solves this? I’d really like at least 3’ knee walls in the loft as I plan to use it as office space. Also, can you comment on using LVL beams as headers or ridge beams, vs solid lumber?
I like it and maybe 2x6 wall studs might prevent spreading.
Keep in mind that the videos in this series don't have structural engineering, because it changes in different areas, (cities, counties and countries). With that said, I would contact the manufactures or local engineers for more information. I would also check out our other videos in the series.
@@matthewmosier8439 Thanks. I think I used the wrong term. I didn't mean knee walls: I just meant short walls underneath the roof, similar to what Greg has in this video. Wondering how to properly spread that load without eating up precious floor or head space. I plan on collar ties overhead.
@@GodsProvidence Ok, I think that makes sense? Engineered trusses usually transmit all the load to the outside walls and compensate for spreading but I'm guessing that you arent planning on the expense of trusses.
Where are the plans to this?
I don't have them yet, but will put it in the series.
How deep dose the side have to be to hold the weight 3 feet
I can't provide engineering information if you're asking about the concrete footings or lumber sizes.
Facia board should have been upright rather than angled, you can’t put ease trough on now
Would a barn style roof help with head room upstairs
Probably not with this design and set of stairs.
Do you have plans I can download?
I'm interested in this as well please
No, not yet, but you will probably need engineering and would suggest contacting an engineer in your area for lumber sizes, footings and floor framing.
i live in mexico. This looks more like a potential house to me than a garage.
do you need permit to build it?
You will need to ask your local building and safety department. They can be usually be found in most cites or county's at the same place the mayor has an office..
You're naming scheme is a little bit messed up it's hard to differentiate this from other videos. Can't seem to find all the parts, they don't come up at the end of the video like they should
Here's a link to our playlists. www.youtube.com/@gregvancom/playlists
Guess I’ll be living in a garage
You should've said that the slope of the floor needs to be sloped at 1/8"- 1/4" (PER FOOT) So at 24 feet from backside to the front side(entrance) the floor will have a total slope of between 3 inches- 6 inches
Thanks and I can't mention everything in one video. That's why I'm doing the series. Thanks again and if you're thinking about this then others will be also.
@@gregvancom I'm only thinking about it because I know about it, as I've been building for over 28 years. I only mentioned it so that people don't get the wrong information is all. Sloping a floor at 1/4 inch, and at a 1/4 inch per foot, are a bit different
@@hammernnails7314 Yes and if I said to slope it a quarter of an inch for the entire floor slap, then my bad and thanks again. Feel free to point out any other mistakes you find in my videos.
@@gregvancom well you've made it obvious that you can't take constructive criticism or in this case, a simple suggestion so that one of your viewers doesn't go sharing incorrect information, as you should know, people do when they get told incorrect information.
Furthermore it actually speaks to your character and setting your first response something to the effect of their praise that you got to keep people coming back to watch your videos, so you devised a way to attempt to keep their attention and then coming back. If I was you I'd be more interested in providing good information and hoping that they come back because of that.
But lastly you don't need to worry about me watching anymore of your videos or commenting obviously
@@hammernnails7314 I appreciate your constructive criticism and RUclips allows me to add a comment at the top of all of the others and this is what I posted.
"I have a viewer who found a mistake in the video. When talking about the garage floor sloping I mentioned it should slope about 1/8 or 1/4 inch and I should have said 1/8 or 1/4 inch per foot. Meaning that in about 24 feet it would drop 6 inches with a 1/4 of an inch slope. Thanks to the viewer for pointing this out."
i dun have spare space for garage >_
I’m going with 24’ w x 28’ d if I can afford it.
Go for it and don't forget that my this video does not include engineering. Lumber sizes and design calculations might be required by local building authorities.
@@gregvancom
Yeah, I have a structural engineer will help with that. I love the storage loft without having to build a full second story.
Only thing I don't like about this design is the 2x12 and 16" on center joist. You are using the maximum span wich will result in a bouncy floor. If you are going to use 2x12 i highly recommended 12" on center or use a 16" engineered floor joist wich wold be more practical for a free span of 20 feet.
Check the span charts again, I used only the best lumber in this project:)
@@gregvancom so I revisited the span chart and I still don't agree, 22'10" maximum span you will still have a bouncy floor. A 12 O.C spacing will substantially increase maximum span to 26' And will fix any bounce issues....I still highly recommend and engineered floor joist for any free span over 18' you will avoid crowning and eliminate the need for blocking, wich I notice was not included in your design. also the live and dead loads are far superior to a solid jost.
@@massivehertz3869 I would have said," Even though YOU ARE CORRECT in my opinion, I still think larger joist and closer on center spacing makes stronger floors." That's a statement I can agree with and I appreciate your comment and I mentioned the 12 inch on center spacing in a couple of my newer videos in this series.
ruclips.net/video/N74zx9XVn0U/видео.html
@@gregvancom thanks for the response, I like your designs and it helps people that enjoy building things themselves to save money. My only objective was to make any one wanting to build this structure based off your design that they would be aware of the possibility of the issue discussed. Some one with limited experience in building may not take something like this into consideration. And by the way I really liked the addition you added to the roof for the stair way for head room. I have an attached 24x24 that I am considering tearing the roof off and adding a apartment above the garage and I am strongly considering that design 🙂
@@gregvancom oh and yes sorry, the provided design would pass code in most cities and states. The span at 16 O.C. is to code, however it also depends largely on the use of that space. And of course if your inspector is an ass or not lol. Unfortunately if and inspector doesn't like something they can fail it even if it meets code. So the stronger the better and they will never complain.
What about wind braces?
Can you provide me with more details? I don't know what wind bracing you're referring to.
@@gregvancom The walls should have diagonal bracing in exterior framed walls (at the corners), usually a 1"x4" piece of dimensional lumber. Kind of hard to explain, but if you google it, there should be pictures. Thanks.
OSB for tread and riser? Bad choice.
What would you suggest?
@@gregvancom no disrespect I just never liked Osb plywood,anything but osb as far as 2x tread depending on tread width,maybe 2x12 Doug fir or cdx.
@@jjciii522I didn't mean to sound like I was questioning your motives and agree that osb might not be my first choice if money was not a concern. Thanks for sharing.
@@jjciii522 How about 1 1/8" ply for treads?
@@tomruth9487 sure,just don't use pine or finger joint.tread must have some strength.always consider stringer quantity and spacing . I've seen the bare minimum as far as stairs goes in my 32 yrs in the business and most held up,but not worth cheaping out.
One day, you will see heart specialists showing a video on do-it-yourself heart transplants, and the title will say " you can do it "
Awesome, I can't wait.
Thanks, it fell onto my car.
I parked mine in loft and it's still standing:) Maybe it was a smaller toy vehicle.